HSP was my first formal class in 2012, the zeroing process was one of the most eye opening things for me. Our zeroes changed slightly everyday. Being cognizant of my natural point of aim revolutionized my groups with everything else already being squared away.
@johnadams673 You have alot to learn. The way the light hits your optic/target changes the way you see your dot. You may have to adjust intensity of your dot to compensate allowing for a more precise or less precise hold. Layers of clothing changes. Weather changes. It all matters. Back then I was shooting centered 5 shot groups in less than the size of a half dollar. It would still change the next day. Minutely, but it would change.
I would encourage anyone to go actually test your zero several days in a row, if you can, and test the theory that your zero shouldn’t change day to day.
I worked in a gun store for years and let me tell you there are a million misconceptions out there about “zeroing” you rifle and optic. Nice to see some real professionals take time to explain not only their methods but the reasons behind them. Thanks for putting out good information!
@@PB8man But working in a Gun Store while knowing and understanding basic fundamentals of shooting and getting a zero then listening to 95% of the slackjaw jackasses who buy one box of 30.06 ammo a year and spue bullshit about Mu Ought Six can kill a Deer at 500 yards EVERY SHOT! and I haven't had to touch my Tasco Scope in 15 years cos it's DEAD NUTS is probably what he is talking about. Of course I know quite a few guys who work at the Gun Shops around here in NC and they are very good shooters and reloaders. Hell some are good enough to be sponsored by several Gun Manufacturers and Ammo Companies. 🤷🏻♂️
One thing I learned in the Marines was to close my eyes and relax totally in my shooting position. After opening my eyes if my natural point of aim was attained I will still be on target. If not adjust accordingly.
Here in Northern Nevada we have dirt. The only ranges like that here you have to run really short sessions because the white ball cart people throw a fit.
I think if you're worried about your zero, set and verify with a bipod and rear bag (or similar set-up). After that, practice in whatever other situations you're training for. Using your mag as a bipod isn't the best way to get the best zero.
In the Army I remember the dry fire trigger pull exercises with our M16A2 balancing a quarter on the end of the barrel the breathing, aiming, proper positioning, this is a good informational video.
It is EXTREMELY SMART to do and yet somehow breaks my heart that the instructor had to place an AirTag on his rifle. I learn from the subtleties you guys offer in your content. Great value here.
Took their D5 carbine course earlier this year. Remarkable team; 100% recommend. Extremely valuable & informative 3 days, especially going through this critical process they’ve expertly captured in this succinct video. Rather than just about aiming, turning some knobs, & pulling the trigger a few times to get sufficiently on target, it’s a personal exercise focused on actually getting to know your gun by making it an extension of yourself. And the CEZ aspect really pulls it all together into practical perspective. A lot of gold in this brief 20 min. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video and very informative. Zeroing is the first thing I check when im getting ready to shoot and it makes the day at the range much more fun and smoother
Also keep on mind your zero and holdovers/unders for 50/200/300 only works for your current gun and ammo. For example, the mythical 50/200 zero might work well enough for milspec 16" gun, milspec sights and specific ammo, but not for your 11" AR, height of your sights/optic and your favourite ammo.
@@TALIZ0RAH I am a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM Training. This training is compliant to the 25/300 meter battle sight zero concept from an M4 or M16A4. What is most important is actually shooting at 300 meters to get the desired results, which includes a bullet drop compensation function in addition to the battle sight zero. At any rate, sounds like you are smart to see where your groupings fall at various distances. If you have an interest in becoming an accomplished marksman with your AR sign up for next year’s Small Arms Firing School, a 3 day Service Rifle Training event in late July at Camp Perry Ohio. The training is mostly marksmsnship with the Service Rifle where you will become knowledgeable about what’s important to good shooting in Service Rifle Competition. All coaching is provided by Champion Military Shooters/Trainers. The training concludes with an Army M16 Match which will both test and allow celebration for your newly developing marksmanship skills. Lots of fun and you will take home the credentials to be able to enter both NRA and CMP governed high power rifle tournaments anywhere they are held in the country. Many of these tournaments have Military participation so you will often have the opportunity to test your skill against the best shooters on the planet, the United States Army Marksmanship Unit.
It will work for any ammo with similar ballistic properties, however it will not translate from one ammo/barrel length to another (if changing barrels is a thing you do).
Right. I did a 50/200 on my 16" but I only did a 100y for my 11.5" since I apparently learned that the effective tumble and fragmentation envelope for the m193 from a barrel that short was only like 40 to 90 yards.
The importance of using same ammo or doing this drill with different types of ammo cannot be overstated! Furthermore, keeping photos of the targets and detailed notes is hugely important especially if you can’t always get to the range because you will forget what you did over time. Also you can study the photos at your leisure. Numerous times I’ve decided weeks after a range session to make an adjustment based on my studies of the data. Of course, confirm it with another session but it costs no ammo, gas, or range time to study the sheets and calculate ballistics in the leisure of your home.
Same same same same. Yes! A chronograph is a valuable tool as you start to shave fractions of an inch off your groups. Differences in ammo make a big difference.
This was way more about basic marksmanship than it was about zeroing a rifle. Which I can appreciate. Being prior service this stuff is a great reminder of mastery of the basics.
I think this is a really well formatted and easy to follow. Easy to understand video and should be very helpful for people starting out. We’re struggling with the zero. Thanks for your work gentleman, and all the best in this crazy world.
What an incredibly valuable video. With such a wide variety of optics, barrel lengths, and attachments to compare differences. It is crucial to form a consistent zeroing practice, and this illustrates everything so well.
This was by far the best advice on zeroing a Rifle.🤙🏽 Great work guys. It’s never the sexy stuff that makes you a better fighter your tool’s it a hard focus and and persistence on the basics. Thanks
Verifying at distance was one of the biggest game changers for me. A 50yd zero can appear perfect but be significantly off at a distance. Locally, I have access to only 200yds, but I find its enough.
@woodsghost9088 dependent on your rifle, the short zeros are long zeros, but I get what your saying. Its why I confirm at 200. Its usually right on the nuts
@@nateh2652 nice! Maybe I'm doing something goofy. I'm not usually on. I'm usually off by 12-16 inches and then need to tune at distance. So I will sight in at 10 50, 100, 150, and finally 200. And just monitor what is happening at each of those distances. I probably have a consistency problem or something.
@@woodsghost9088if its a new optic/rifle or a new ammo or similar 50 works good just to make sure it's on paper and you aren't wasting rounds. Then if you want the 50/200 zero, take it out to 200 and confirm/dial in. If you are using something like a second focal plane LPVO with a BDC, typically those you want to zero at max magnification at 100 and then you should take it out to 200 and 300 if possible to confirm if the BDC is accurate for your ammo load and barrel length.
My wife and my friends get our training at the TRC in North Carolina. Love your video one of our instructors did the exact same thing you guys teach. Keep up the kick ass wisdom videos.
Couple of observations - 1- foam backers - flex with the breeze - make those stable with a cardboard backer and staple to that. 2 - the dope built we are trying to match the bullet rising not the bullet dropping on the trajectory - one the 2nd to last example of the 50-300 dope, you saw the individual got the back side of the trajectory on his 50 dope - meaning it dropped significantly after for 100, 200 and 300. Information stacks and is clean - great way to communicate info to shooters experienced and novice alike. Good vid.
When i go out to the range i typically do a few dry fires before i even load the rifle. Just to work out any kinks or anticipation since i don't shoot a whole lot. Moving through the tags you expect to use that particular rifle in is great to see if that bdc reticle is actually going to work for your particular ammo however i would prefer a reticle like the one used in the Swampfox Saber. Instead of having specific ranges it has MOA hash marks down to 40 iirc. You can do what's down in this video and write down actual dope you can use in the reticle.
Such a quality video. You guys have real talent in teaching. I’m gonna save this video for ever and reference back when I need to. Thank you Haley Strategic!
The amount of talent on this field is astounding. That single group of individuals could roll as deep as a platoon. Also, probably the nicest coolest people on earth.
What separates this video from any other on zeroing are the EXCELLENT animations: reticle brightness/contrast, vertical alignment of the muzzle in the breathing cycle, trigger finger placement/press. Phenomenal.
It’s amazing the amount of skill and work ethic some operators and instructors have. Really makes you admire them more, as a newbie in the rifle world, it’s really incredible what some people can do.
I took HSP D5 carbine in 2019 with Travis and Bruce. It was the single most important training class in my shooting life. If you’re watching this video and the knowledge in this video isn’t 100% solid in your habits and mind, you need to go get it. Give HSP a few days if your time and get better. Shooting without understanding is a waste of time, money, and opportunity. Great to see this video out there now. What a gift from HSP. Thanks again, Travis and Bruce.
Hands down the most informative AND practical zeroing instruction I’ve seen. I’ve watched a lot, read a lot, but sadly have only taken one (civilian instructed) rifle class (6-7 CATM). I have great respect for the instructor of that class, but THIS is amazing. I enjoyed the team effort of instruction. THANK YOU!! Checking out Haley Strategic’s training schedule now.
I learned to zero my rifles from my father. His father taught him. Always move the reticle to the where the bullet goes. Base your zero by a specific load. Helps to be familiar with your distances too.
Just went to an indoor range the other day and my priority was zeroing my rifle laser light combo & vortex crossfire + pistol (TLR red dot). Once I made progress I was so satisfied with my groupings and accuracy. This makes me want to go to an outdoor range with my rifle so bad. Excellent advice, thanks for the video content.
Minus the basics of breath, trigger control and stance; I’m a firm believer in zeroing to point blank range. It’s a lot more in-depth, but more versatile for the shooter. Example: 20” AR.. 55g FMJ..Drag: G1..BC: .243… Velocity: 3243 Barrel: 20” Grain: 55g Bore/Optic offset: 2.45 (2 29/64) What that will give me is a 0 to 300 yards point and shoot at a 6” target with a 3” deviation. My near zero is at 42 yards and far zero is at 260 yards. Now not great for competition, but a great battle zero! Just my humble opinion. Great video sir! I made a mistake on the BC, it is now corrected. Sorry for the inconvenience!
@@l800x8 sorry for the miss info 55g is approx BC OF .243, I swapped the BC with my custom 77g elite match. Thanks for picking that up, as I hate to give misleading info. I have corrected the initial post, thanks again!
I agree. I'm a firm believer in finding your optimum zero within a defined killzone, so you can maximize your point blank range. This is absolutely dependent on your setup and your ammunition. It's how all hunters and tactical shooters should zero. I don't zero this way as I'm a target shooter, and while I still maximize point blank range either side of my zero, I am downright autistic about never dialing down, only ever dialing up. This means my zero is at the apogee, not midway between apogee and near/far point blank range. It's a slight shift, but I'm still determining my zero distance based on real world data, not some rule of thumb.
@@Patrick-857 absolutely agreed! Max point blank range is not perfect in target or competitive shooting but if you understand the concept, it opens you up to calculating a great shot! My opinion was that in a combat or shtf situation, where distance is unknown but critical, IMHO max point blank range would, again in my opinion, would be the better choice. With that being said, you’re going to have to know your weapon, all the bullet characteristics and velocity. It’s not for everyone but for those who are serious shooters, the better choice. You’re right there is no rule of thumb, every senecio is different; so many variables so little time.
This is some amazing data and education. Thank you so much for the delivery and the information that you have given us today. It was very nice to hear from multiple instructors as well.
What are your thoughts on adjusting your zero based on the 200 yard impacts? I've heard folks say for a 50/200 or 36/300 type zero you want the longer distance to be the true zero and you would then see how it changed the close zero. Great video and lots of helpful tips, thanks for all the good content.
What you’re describing is called mpbr, maximum point blank range. When using a scope you can adjust for elevation and windage. Red dots and irons use mpbr to keep the round within an expected rise and fall trajectory. It depends on the ammo, barrel length etc. a 20” firing 55gr at 3200fps is going to have a longer mpbr than a 10.5” at 2800fps for example
great video for Rambo-types and LE or Military. I’m 70 and been shooting the AR platform for 40+ years. I’m zeroed at 50 yards. If I point my red dot at the upper chest from 15 yards to 100 yards I’m going to be successful in protecting myself or others. If someone is shooting at me from 100 yards or more I can still run and that’s what I’m going to do. I might also add that there is a very slim chance one will ever have to use a firearm for self-defense. In 46 years of carrying concealed I have never had to draw my firearm. These videos supply great information for those who may think they need this level of instruction..Thanks to HSP for providing it
Absolutely brilliant video on zero. Im new to the AR platform but used to shoot on the state hi-power team. Shot the nationals at Camp Perry with an M1A. Learning the rifle by tracking data leads to repeatability and confidence. Thanks so much for the inspiration!
Thanks for making this video Travis and guys. What a great explanation and even for guys that have been doing this for years I’m sure it’s still eye opening. I really appreciate it.
@CharleyVCU1988 These are rules of thumb. In my opinion you should find out what your projectile out of your particular rifle is actually doing, and zero to maximize your point blank range
@@CharleyVCU1988I watched Sean Ryan here on the Tube and he gave a complete explanation of the difference using the 50,36and 100 yard zeros. I like the 36 Yrd zero because as Sean demonstrated that the spread all the way out to 300 was about 6 inches. The same spread that’s about the size of a music CD..But that’s using a Red dot optic such as an EOTECH /Aimpoint etc..And with the 36 you don’t need to change your zero so often. Not to say you shouldn’t check it. But however, when using my LPVO I use the 50/200. So depending on your OPTIC it’s ok to use the 36..It’s become my favorite zero.
It’s true, most don’t confirm their zeroes apart from the range they typically shoot which is usually 50y and in, maybe 100 if being generous. If they run long range courses then people would easily realize that their zero wasn’t actually zeroed. Although I do prefer shooting from a bench or a vise and getting comfortable while seated. Prone is good too, but a vise and a bag is typically mechanically more sound. It’s especially true with taller optic heights where some may have some discomfort from shooting too much in the prone. Also, if the target is at a relatively different elevation from where you’re shooting from (I.e. shooting from prone but the target is at hip or chest level), that elevation is another point of consideration. Hence, it adds to wanting to zero seated while the target would be in the same height as the rifle on a table from 0-300y for confirmation without any variable for change in elevation from shooter to target.
I’ve been zeroing my weapon the way I was taught at Ft Benning, GA back in 1987. Works for me. I always got the same sight picture by touching the charging handle with the tip of my nose. There is nothing like getting that weapon deep into the V shape of that sandbag. I get 3 shots in a dime every time.
I have shot my entire life and cause of hunting big game out zero was very important, since not hunting as much and shooting more for sport and stay dangerous I have had an eye opening watching this ! I have eotech n everything I watched in going to do! Thanks for your service , n for your insight ! 🤙
I disagree slightly. You are always part if the equation. The shot is a combination of you and the rifle. You are one with the rifle ideally. If you take yourself out of the equation when zeroing, then you are setting yourself up for problems in a real world scenario, because now you ARE part of the equation. I think regardless of your particular discipline, it's essential to zero your rifle in a position that's as close to how you intend to use it as possible.
I am zeroing my two rifles this weekend. This has been a wonderful video to help me mentally, but also logically. It was easy to follow and easy to make sense. Thank you for explaining the acronyms for those of us that do not know. "K.I.S.S." it, thank you for that. I have a better game plan on what I will do moving forward.
11b OSUT 2009 We definitely zeroed weapons with irons sights at 50m first, mag in dirt. Then they gave us CCO's to zero with. I also remember zeroing with a bore laser in the barracks as well. You'll know if you zeroed correctly at qual.
Here’s the backstory. We had to play the game by teaching BCT POI for group/zero, but if you remember, we’d actually group you low on the black silhouette of the 25m zero target. There was a reason. Then we’d take you out to the acoustic feedback LOMAH range (with the little TV screens) to verify zero at distance and get you dialed in. But after that, we would deviate from the POI by taking you out to the KD range on Dixie Road. You remember, the huge open range where you moved closer and farther shooting from different burms, while a platoon was behind the final burm lifting and lowering targets. That’s where we adjusted you for a 200m zero (50/200), which was the best all-around zero for the shortest vertical shot string. We would adjust both irons and 68’s out there. It’s also where we taught you to piss in an open field by taking a knee. Fun times baking in that goddamn heat, so we’d do y’all a solid and call the gut truck out for powerades and pizza slices. We only did this with 11B’s. For my third year on the trail, I got sent to Relaxin Jackson where it was just shake my fuckin head non-combat MOS BRM where we couldn’t show the trainees all the finer combat applications techniques. Hated it.
We had some ridiculous number of people qualify expert with those 68's. I actually had a Harder time zeroing a acog in theater with the little red delta reticle at 50m than I did the cco. Great times.
@@nivonis393 True. The 68’s were such a game changer that they became standard on all BCT rifles. I’ve got a serious love/hate relationship with my ACOG, so I feel ya. That short eye relief. Back in the day we were hoping for a 3x version of the 68.
If one is zeroing and they have access to a bench and some bags, I would recommend that as well. Not a sled, but just good shooting bags. Plus being at a bench is a position that is kind of in between standing and prone in regards to head and neck placement.
Depends. Different holds and positions have an effect on POI. It's insignificant in some weapons and very significant in others. Many firearms people aren't even aware if hold sensitivity, but I am hyper aware of it as I compete with spring piston airguns, which experience radical POI shifts if you change your hold. It's usually best to zero how you're intending to use the rifle. It eliminates variables, and you are also zeroing according to practical accuracy that you can achieve in a realistic scenario. If you're concerned that you aren't achieving pinpoint accuracy, fire more shots and get an average. You aren't going to be as accurate as that in a real world scenario, so why fool yourself with bags?
@@dammain1068 You could. It would waste a lot of ammo though. Maybe the test to see after you zero from a more stable position and see what effect it has. If your intending to use it standing, then it's probably important to know what effect it will have.
@@Patrick-857 I understand what you are saying, but you aren’t “fooling yourself” with bags. You are helping to eliminate shooter induced error. If the bags give stability then you know that the zero is as close to the ballistic path as possible. If you are low when you shoot standing then you know you are anticipating recoil. The bags allow for the natural recoil of the rifle, as opposed to a sled. Your air gun has a forward recoil impulse which is why how you hold it can effect the impact.
@@dammain1068 US Service Rifle Competition demands shooters have good zeros for prone, sitting, and standing position at each distance target is engaged from a position. In my case I have 11 zeros which are for a no wind condition. The standing zero required 3 weeks of daily 50 minute dry/ live fire exercises to get a corollary between shot calls and strikes to actually understand my error precisely. It was worth the effort though, taking me from a 92% standing score average to a 96% average standing score, which helped me earn the US Distinguished Rifleman Badge.
When it comes to finding the proper zero, or rather optimizing a zero, I think velocity should play a significant role in the decision as to what distance you should zero. Plugging in your height over bore, velocity, and projectile weight into a ballistics calculator can change that decision drastically. Especially with BDC reticles you need to actually do the math to see how your setup aligns with the stadia lines.
Generally speaking, I figure out what my max point blank zero is first, and then worry about if any of that stuff matters. Unless you are in very open areas, its rare for more than a 300 meter shot.
AS YOUR TARGETS ARE MOVING IN THE WIND.. I think there's a lot of value to this video, but some things you should have covered are best practices overall. If you're at a range that can give you a better edge on zeroing your rifle with equipment, you eliminate almost all human error. Your video is great for people who need to zero and barely have two sticks to rub together. It would have been great to see or hear about better methods for ideal scenarios. Thank you!
While 100 yd zeros have purpose, what is your gun doing up close is also reasonable question and practical. I believe this is what this vid is trying to convey - know where your impacts are over a spectrum, not just a single data point. We used to zero at 36 and then confirm at 100, and this gave a reasonable idea if you caught the trajectory on the front end or the back end for shorter shots.
Fantastic video, and explanation. My previous understanding of Zero was rounds impact, moving sight to the point of impact, and that's it. I love the significance behind why you need to build trust and data to serve people with reliable shot placement if you need to defend loved ones.
Hey I’ve been following you over the years and I know you were a firm believer in the 36 yard zero in the past. Has that changed to 50? Keep up the good work on educating us, thank you!
Rules of thumb are just that. Doesn't necessarily work with the myriad of setups in civilian hands. In the military maybe, because everyone gets the same setup. Ideally you find the zero distance that optimises your point blank range for your particular setup and ammo. Every other approach will cause anomalies.
For the standard AR setup with irons the sight height is true for a concurrent 36 and 300yd zero. That's why it's so specific...36yds. If you zeroed that same rifle at 50, you'd be true at 200. BUT....with that zero, you're shooting low at 300 and very low at 400. Basically with a 36/300 zero you are no more than 4" away from your intended elevation out to like 400yds. You zero for 50/200....you don't have that. Bullet is shot too horizontal and drops quickly. 36/300 is your best option for 10 rings out to almost 400yds with no elevation adjustment.
As a very interested newcomer, I can say that I love this video. It shows in great detail what is happening physically, how to interpret it and how to correct it. great video, you have my subscription! Thank you very much!
Been watching Haley since his (*redacted*) times. The evolution of knowledge has been insanely impressive. Glad to see new content coming and education for us laymen. Keep it up 👍
Really appreciate the value shown how having a 50-200 zero is preferable in regard to an overall battle zero. I've trained with former Navy team members suggesting a 100 yard zero based on how they instruct.. Although good. With refined knowledge, I think I have a new battle zero. The only addition is a point of telling new shooters you"ll need to hold under at 100. Ballistics are everything as you stated. Very helpful video. Thank you kindly.
I've been acquiring some excellent equipment over time, but I now need to really start learning to zero and train effectively with it now. I've spent a good amount of money getting some stuff, but now it's time to put it to good use and get really effective with it.
I have to ask... why not throw on a bipod and use a rear bag. Or front and rear bag, just to get a definite zero? That's my process. Even down to a 7" 9mm pdw. Front bag, rear bag or bipod abd rear bag. Once zero is established then that shit goes away. Thoughts?
@haleystrategic6 see to me it makes more sense to get a precise zero from a stable position, then go and do this. My fear is if you don't have a very stable position, you could zero the rifle to your flinch or breath or something vs getting a true zero. Like an inexperienced shooter hitting low left consistently with a handgun then drifting sights. The shooter is hitting low left not the gun.
You want the rifle zeroed to itself mechanically. Not to your human inconsistentcy. . The gun should be perfect by itself Then whatever little difference or human error you have between shots won't be magnified. If the gun is mechanically perfect then you know it's you and what you need to practice
@Furiouspenguin27 considering the Marine Corps has the most in-depth rifle marksmanship qualification of all the services, it has a lot to do with it. Of course, not every Marine meets the highest standards of those qualifications, but those that qualify in the "Expert" tier know damn well what they're talking about when it comes to basic rifle marksmanship.
@kychristell1779whether a Marine is a pog or not has nothing to do with their ability to hit the target. I've seen plenty of grunts go unq on the range.
@@TheDAP8576 okay boot. I shot high expert in rifle and pistol qual, I’m very aware of the Marine Corps qualifications. You shoot once a year and it is not hard at all to pass or even hit expert. It’s cringe to start off any comment with “as a Marine, soldier, vet, etc.”
New subscriber here! Well said, "stay sharp, be safe, and die free", Amen brother! Thank you for this amazing video and now it clears up a couple things for me on "zeroing" and I will start using this!
This is the best video I have seen about zero-ing for a rifle but specifically a AR. This may allow me to enjoy my AR more. It has taken a back seat to my bolt action 308 which I shoot at Long distance. I wish you would do an addendum part 2 going out to 500 yards. And also my biggest challenge, windage for a AR at those ranges.
I love how when he "dug his mag in" it suddenly grew a foregrip, a surpressor, a laser, and an apple mirror device on the magazine well. Awesome! But I've been trying this and it doesn't work for me. What am I doing wrong?😮
Just found this channel. Seems like what you guys do is no nonsense, no BS. I’m primarily an LR dude but need to brush up on my carbine skills. As soon as you get carbine course’s out here in the west, I’ll be in it👍🏽 🇺🇸 Semper Fi
True, very important. And so is barrel length. I had to research this recently as I had to zero a piggyback dot with a HOB of 4.75 inches. With a high HOB, you have to zero further out because if you zero at say 25, you will be shooting 12 inches at 100 yards due to the barbell being angled to high. I found that using 75gr ammo, a 75 yard zero was the flattest out to distance (75/225 yard zero).
I've experimented with effects of height over bore and even a 1/2" can make a huge difference on your near zero. It also makes a difference on far zero and max pbr. But in the end you have to settle on the most comfortable riser height and then cez is what it is. All zero's are moving targets but I've settled on point blank zero's for red dots because they are the resultant of entering the actual m.v./b.c./height over bore/target size.
Great video and you have a new subscriber. The guys at the range think I am nuts. Every time I go I set up 3 targets. 50 yards, 100, and 200. At 50 and 100 I set up paper targets that I can measure. At 200 I have a 10" steel AR550 round plate painted white with a 3" orange painted circle in the middle. My range has a max of 200 yards. I verify at all 3 distances every time I shoot. In fact that is why I go. If ever needed I know the weapon is ready. I have 5 AR's that I rotate with this process. I take one at a time with each visit. Although I do use a sandbag. 90% of the time the results are consistent but there are those times that it seems to move on you for whatever reason. So you adjust. I have 5 AR's with different optic set ups for variety. I have a Sig Romeo 8T with an Eotech 5x mag behind it. I have a T2 with an Eotech 5x mag behind as well. I have two rifles with a PA PLX 1-8 LPVO (both of these have an offset red dot), and one rifle that I usually have some kind of PA prism sight on either a 3x or 5x. Overkill? Probably, but it keeps each range visit fresh, and enjoyable while enforcing good habits.
Great video. Would have been great to discuss the guys different optics setups. Especially differences when zeroing with absolute co witness, lower 1/3, or higher mounts. Maybe do that in another video because I know optic height with change where you hit on paper at different ranges.
Deltathirtyfour has a great set of (2) videos called “best red dot zero” that explains exactly that. The graphics that he uses to explain those concepts in the videos are fantastic learning aids
This is really wonderful! It answers many questions I've had over the years that no one else seems to address. And I love this idea of 'chasing the zero'. Your weapon, environmental conditions, etc. are never exactly the same, so it makes perfect sense that there's no 'one size fits all'. Sorry if this is a silly question/suggestion, but I'd love to see you cover the differences when shooting .308/7.62, as opposed to 5.56. Cheers!
HSP was my first formal class in 2012, the zeroing process was one of the most eye opening things for me. Our zeroes changed slightly everyday. Being cognizant of my natural point of aim revolutionized my groups with everything else already being squared away.
Sounds like you just didn't have a good zero. Outside of major humidity change or different ammo, your zero shouldn't change in a day
@johnadams673 You have alot to learn. The way the light hits your optic/target changes the way you see your dot. You may have to adjust intensity of your dot to compensate allowing for a more precise or less precise hold. Layers of clothing changes. Weather changes. It all matters. Back then I was shooting centered 5 shot groups in less than the size of a half dollar. It would still change the next day. Minutely, but it would change.
@johnadams673 Also to your point it was south Louisiana. Humidity is next level 😂
I would encourage anyone to go actually test your zero several days in a row, if you can, and test the theory that your zero shouldn’t change day to day.
You must suck at shooting
I worked in a gun store for years and let me tell you there are a million misconceptions out there about “zeroing” you rifle and optic. Nice to see some real professionals take time to explain not only their methods but the reasons behind them. Thanks for putting out good information!
🙏🙏🙏
lol. working in a gun store is NOT a qualifier for knowledge. You could have left that part out entirely.
@@PB8man But working in a Gun Store while knowing and understanding basic fundamentals of shooting and getting a zero then listening to 95% of the slackjaw jackasses who buy one box of 30.06 ammo a year and spue bullshit about Mu Ought Six can kill a Deer at 500 yards EVERY SHOT! and I haven't had to touch my Tasco Scope in 15 years cos it's DEAD NUTS is probably what he is talking about.
Of course I know quite a few guys who work at the Gun Shops around here in NC and they are very good shooters and reloaders. Hell some are good enough to be sponsored by several Gun Manufacturers and Ammo Companies. 🤷🏻♂️
@@PB8manhe didn't use it as a basis of knowledge, just as a basis for him hearing all the different "wives tales" regarding zeroing
Opinions are like assholes. Everybody has one.
I like how they used many different instructors to present the material. Great subject and great videography.
Glad it was helpful!
Yes this was very well put together. The method of each instructing various parts was engaging and a refreshingly nice touch never seen before.
@@HaleyStrategicPartners Keep riding the short bus by teaching a bad technique of pinning those triggers back!!! SAD!!!
@johnl-cz2qg how bad are we talking?
The way this video was made by passing the mic and sharing everyone's knowledge is amazing.
Is it really sharing when every instructor is indoctrinated in the same thinking??
One thing I learned in the Marines was to close my eyes and relax totally in my shooting position. After opening my eyes if my natural point of aim was attained I will still be on target. If not adjust accordingly.
Adjust by moving your body, yes?
That’s a damn nice range. I’m used to laying on dirt and gravel. I could take a nap there..
Same here! Used to the Idaho desert floor.
Cement slab here hahaha
Just remember to fill your mag divot after shooting lol
safety violations sleep on the range 😂😂😂😂
Here in Northern Nevada we have dirt. The only ranges like that here you have to run really short sessions because the white ball cart people throw a fit.
I think if you're worried about your zero, set and verify with a bipod and rear bag (or similar set-up). After that, practice in whatever other situations you're training for. Using your mag as a bipod isn't the best way to get the best zero.
Sticking mag in the dirt works out to 500m.
@@GNpatent become the tripod.
@@re-dacted.I was born that way
Put as much torque and pressure on the weakest part of the weapon system... then lift with your back in a jerking twisting motion
@@11BeezDD214 That's funny.
In the Army I remember the dry fire trigger pull exercises with our M16A2 balancing a quarter on the end of the barrel the breathing, aiming, proper positioning, this is a good informational video.
It is EXTREMELY SMART to do and yet somehow breaks my heart that the instructor had to place an AirTag on his rifle. I learn from the subtleties you guys offer in your content. Great value here.
Took their D5 carbine course earlier this year. Remarkable team; 100% recommend. Extremely valuable & informative 3 days, especially going through this critical process they’ve expertly captured in this succinct video. Rather than just about aiming, turning some knobs, & pulling the trigger a few times to get sufficiently on target, it’s a personal exercise focused on actually getting to know your gun by making it an extension of yourself. And the CEZ aspect really pulls it all together into practical perspective. A lot of gold in this brief 20 min. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Travis Haley taking everything to a new level.
Dang, this man operates so far beyond us, yet zero ego.
Respect.
This was my favorite portion of the D5 AK class I took years ago. Everyday the zero shifted slightly. Eye opening experience.
Fantastic joint effort. Fifteen years of amateur shooting and still learning immensely. Will need to review your DVDs again. Thanks for your efforts.
Great video and very informative. Zeroing is the first thing I check when im getting ready to shoot and it makes the day at the range much more fun and smoother
Also keep on mind your zero and holdovers/unders for 50/200/300 only works for your current gun and ammo. For example, the mythical 50/200 zero might work well enough for milspec 16" gun, milspec sights and specific ammo, but not for your 11" AR, height of your sights/optic and your favourite ammo.
My buddy did a 25/300 on a 7.5 in AR and around 150 was point of aim making hits. My 16in gun needs hold unders at those same distances.
@@TALIZ0RAH I am a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM Training. This training is compliant to the 25/300 meter battle sight zero concept from an M4 or M16A4. What is most important is actually shooting at 300 meters to get the desired results, which includes a bullet drop compensation function in addition to the battle sight zero. At any rate, sounds like you are smart to see where your groupings fall at various distances. If you have an interest in becoming an accomplished marksman with your AR sign up for next year’s Small Arms Firing School, a 3 day Service Rifle Training event in late July at Camp Perry Ohio. The training is mostly marksmsnship with the Service Rifle where you will become knowledgeable about what’s important to good shooting in Service Rifle Competition. All coaching is provided by Champion Military Shooters/Trainers. The training concludes with an Army M16 Match which will both test and allow celebration for your newly developing marksmanship skills. Lots of fun and you will take home the credentials to be able to enter both NRA and CMP governed high power rifle tournaments anywhere they are held in the country. Many of these tournaments have Military participation so you will often have the opportunity to test your skill against the best shooters on the planet, the United States Army Marksmanship Unit.
It will work for any ammo with similar ballistic properties, however it will not translate from one ammo/barrel length to another (if changing barrels is a thing you do).
Right. I did a 50/200 on my 16" but I only did a 100y for my 11.5" since I apparently learned that the effective tumble and fragmentation envelope for the m193 from a barrel that short was only like 40 to 90 yards.
The importance of using same ammo or doing this drill with different types of ammo cannot be overstated! Furthermore, keeping photos of the targets and detailed notes is hugely important especially if you can’t always get to the range because you will forget what you did over time. Also you can study the photos at your leisure. Numerous times I’ve decided weeks after a range session to make an adjustment based on my studies of the data. Of course, confirm it with another session but it costs no ammo, gas, or range time to study the sheets and calculate ballistics in the leisure of your home.
Well said. 👍
Same same same same. Yes! A chronograph is a valuable tool as you start to shave fractions of an inch off your groups. Differences in ammo make a big difference.
If you "roll your own" then keeping quality records is a must.
different types of ammo causes zero shift, lmfao.
@@investigativeoutcomes9343 Oh yes it does.
Really great video, I very much liked that the entire team gave some input in the zeroing process. Very well done.
This is gold; the point about altitude affecting your zero, what a great point!
Really Well Done! I love having each instructor take a fundamental! Body Position, Aiming, Breathing, Trigger Squeeze, and Trigger Reset...
This was way more about basic marksmanship than it was about zeroing a rifle. Which I can appreciate. Being prior service this stuff is a great reminder of mastery of the basics.
I think this is a really well formatted and easy to follow. Easy to understand video and should be very helpful for people starting out. We’re struggling with the zero. Thanks for your work gentleman, and all the best in this crazy world.
Glad it was helpful!
What an incredibly valuable video. With such a wide variety of optics, barrel lengths, and attachments to compare differences. It is crucial to form a consistent zeroing practice, and this illustrates everything so well.
“Zero your rifle not, let rifle zero you. Inaccuracy leads to fear, fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate.”
-Yoda, probably
Hate leads to high ammo bills due to frustration. - Me
Pure gold. Your explanation gives a voice to what my gut has been telling me. Thank You for this outstanding upload.
This was by far the best advice on zeroing a Rifle.🤙🏽 Great work guys. It’s never the sexy stuff that makes you a better fighter your tool’s it a hard focus and and persistence on the basics. Thanks
Verifying at distance was one of the biggest game changers for me. A 50yd zero can appear perfect but be significantly off at a distance. Locally, I have access to only 200yds, but I find its enough.
I don't zero at 50. I zero at 200. This is the only way.
Or zero at 300. I won't argue. But 25, 36, and 50 are NOT zeros.
@woodsghost9088 dependent on your rifle, the short zeros are long zeros, but I get what your saying. Its why I confirm at 200. Its usually right on the nuts
@@nateh2652 nice! Maybe I'm doing something goofy. I'm not usually on. I'm usually off by 12-16 inches and then need to tune at distance. So I will sight in at 10 50, 100, 150, and finally 200. And just monitor what is happening at each of those distances. I probably have a consistency problem or something.
@@woodsghost9088if its a new optic/rifle or a new ammo or similar 50 works good just to make sure it's on paper and you aren't wasting rounds.
Then if you want the 50/200 zero, take it out to 200 and confirm/dial in.
If you are using something like a second focal plane LPVO with a BDC, typically those you want to zero at max magnification at 100 and then you should take it out to 200 and 300 if possible to confirm if the BDC is accurate for your ammo load and barrel length.
@@SPIRIT-117 thanks man. I'm mostly using irons or red dots.
I think with a big enough target, 50 gets you on paper at 200.
My wife and my friends get our training at the TRC in North Carolina. Love your video one of our instructors did the exact same thing you guys teach. Keep up the kick ass wisdom videos.
The confidence of knowing you're zero is good and knowing your holds at distance can not be overstated.
Couple of observations - 1- foam backers - flex with the breeze - make those stable with a cardboard backer and staple to that. 2 - the dope built we are trying to match the bullet rising not the bullet dropping on the trajectory - one the 2nd to last example of the 50-300 dope, you saw the individual got the back side of the trajectory on his 50 dope - meaning it dropped significantly after for 100, 200 and 300.
Information stacks and is clean - great way to communicate info to shooters experienced and novice alike. Good vid.
When i go out to the range i typically do a few dry fires before i even load the rifle. Just to work out any kinks or anticipation since i don't shoot a whole lot.
Moving through the tags you expect to use that particular rifle in is great to see if that bdc reticle is actually going to work for your particular ammo however i would prefer a reticle like the one used in the Swampfox Saber. Instead of having specific ranges it has MOA hash marks down to 40 iirc.
You can do what's down in this video and write down actual dope you can use in the reticle.
Such a quality video. You guys have real talent in teaching. I’m gonna save this video for ever and reference back when I need to. Thank you Haley Strategic!
The amount of talent on this field is astounding. That single group of individuals could roll as deep as a platoon. Also, probably the nicest coolest people on earth.
What separates this video from any other on zeroing are the EXCELLENT animations: reticle brightness/contrast, vertical alignment of the muzzle in the breathing cycle, trigger finger placement/press. Phenomenal.
AirTag: The modern day “Dummy Cord”.😂 I like format of each of the HSP instructors taking part of the presentation.
These guys are phenomenal instructors.
Oh jeez, now everyone is going to start sticking AirTags on their rifles. 😂
I will not !
lol WTH!
From the company that brought you the iPhone and the iPad comes iKill 😂😂😂
If it were somehow hidden in the furniture I could maybe get on board but on lower Apple out looks as ridiculous as it sounds.😂😂😂
@@stereothrilla8374the Idoomstick
It’s amazing the amount of skill and work ethic some operators and instructors have. Really makes you admire them more, as a newbie in the rifle world, it’s really incredible what some people can do.
I took HSP D5 carbine in 2019 with Travis and Bruce. It was the single most important training class in my shooting life. If you’re watching this video and the knowledge in this video isn’t 100% solid in your habits and mind, you need to go get it. Give HSP a few days if your time and get better. Shooting without understanding is a waste of time, money, and opportunity. Great to see this video out there now. What a gift from HSP. Thanks again, Travis and Bruce.
this video was probably the most helpful and informative video on this topic i have ever seen. thank you so much.
Hands down the most informative AND practical zeroing instruction I’ve seen. I’ve watched a lot, read a lot, but sadly have only taken one (civilian instructed) rifle class (6-7 CATM). I have great respect for the instructor of that class, but THIS is amazing.
I enjoyed the team effort of instruction. THANK YOU!! Checking out Haley Strategic’s training schedule now.
We appreciate that
I learned to zero my rifles from my father. His father taught him. Always move the reticle to the where the bullet goes. Base your zero by a specific load. Helps to be familiar with your distances too.
Can we also talk about the AirTags on the rifle? How are they holding up over time/recoil
I want to know as well. 😅😅😅
Too easy to spot and remove. At least hide it in the grip
@@911_dan2Thats the point.
They remove the one they can see and think "got it! All good"...
@@joemo1033 this is genius.
@@joemo1033 well now they are gonna look in the grip because you gave it away!
So true. No matter how much you think your rifle is zeroed you can always be more precise. Thank you fellas.
Excellent video instruction. I have been shooting a long time and I learned a LOT from this video!!!! Top notch!
Just went to an indoor range the other day and my priority was zeroing my rifle laser light combo & vortex crossfire + pistol (TLR red dot). Once I made progress I was so satisfied with my groupings and accuracy. This makes me want to go to an outdoor range with my rifle so bad. Excellent advice, thanks for the video content.
Minus the basics of breath, trigger control and stance; I’m a firm believer in zeroing to point blank range. It’s a lot more in-depth, but more versatile for the shooter. Example: 20” AR.. 55g FMJ..Drag: G1..BC: .243… Velocity: 3243 Barrel: 20” Grain: 55g Bore/Optic offset: 2.45 (2 29/64) What that will give me is a 0 to 300 yards point and shoot at a 6” target with a 3” deviation. My near zero is at 42 yards and far zero is at 260 yards. Now not great for competition, but a great battle zero! Just my humble opinion. Great video sir!
I made a mistake on the BC, it is now corrected. Sorry for the inconvenience!
What 55gr bullet has a .371 BC?
@@l800x8 sorry for the miss info 55g is approx BC OF .243, I swapped the BC with my custom 77g elite match. Thanks for picking that up, as I hate to give misleading info. I have corrected the initial post, thanks again!
I agree. I'm a firm believer in finding your optimum zero within a defined killzone, so you can maximize your point blank range. This is absolutely dependent on your setup and your ammunition.
It's how all hunters and tactical shooters should zero.
I don't zero this way as I'm a target shooter, and while I still maximize point blank range either side of my zero, I am downright autistic about never dialing down, only ever dialing up. This means my zero is at the apogee, not midway between apogee and near/far point blank range. It's a slight shift, but I'm still determining my zero distance based on real world data, not some rule of thumb.
@@Patrick-857 absolutely agreed! Max point blank range is not perfect in target or competitive shooting but if you understand the concept, it opens you up to calculating a great shot! My opinion was that in a combat or shtf situation, where distance is unknown but critical, IMHO max point blank range would, again in my opinion, would be the better choice. With that being said, you’re going to have to know your weapon, all the bullet characteristics and velocity. It’s not for everyone but for those who are serious shooters, the better choice. You’re right there is no rule of thumb, every senecio is different; so many variables so little time.
This is some amazing data and education. Thank you so much for the delivery and the information that you have given us today. It was very nice to hear from multiple instructors as well.
What are your thoughts on adjusting your zero based on the 200 yard impacts? I've heard folks say for a 50/200 or 36/300 type zero you want the longer distance to be the true zero and you would then see how it changed the close zero. Great video and lots of helpful tips, thanks for all the good content.
What you’re describing is called mpbr, maximum point blank range. When using a scope you can adjust for elevation and windage. Red dots and irons use mpbr to keep the round within an expected rise and fall trajectory. It depends on the ammo, barrel length etc. a 20” firing 55gr at 3200fps is going to have a longer mpbr than a 10.5” at 2800fps for example
This is an excellent video, I love when I find a video that I'm "not prepared for" in the way that I want to get a pen and paper and take notes.
Excellent content. Thanks for breaking it down. Appreciate it.
Glad it was helpful!
great video for Rambo-types and LE or Military. I’m 70 and been shooting the AR platform for 40+ years. I’m zeroed at 50 yards. If I point my red dot at the upper chest from 15 yards to 100 yards I’m going to be successful in protecting myself or others. If someone is shooting at me from 100 yards or more I can still run and that’s what I’m going to do. I might also add that there is a very slim chance one will ever have to use a firearm for self-defense. In 46 years of carrying concealed I have never had to draw my firearm. These videos supply great information for those who may think they need this level of instruction..Thanks to HSP for providing it
You’re not from New Orleans old fella.
Thank you I’ll take these lesson for a more productive weekend
Absolutely brilliant video on zero. Im new to the AR platform but used to shoot on the state hi-power team. Shot the nationals at Camp Perry with an M1A. Learning the rifle by tracking data leads to repeatability and confidence. Thanks so much for the inspiration!
Thanks for making this video Travis and guys. What a great explanation and even for guys that have been doing this for years I’m sure it’s still eye opening. I really appreciate it.
Moooooooooore of this please, lots more. This content is what we civis need.
So, basically Mr. Haley is a proponent of a 50 yard zero all the while making note of where your shots hit with regards to 100, 200, and 300.
I saw it as 100, he simply acknowledged that puts the 50 yd at 1.5” below zero
@haleystrategic6 argh, I have already zeroed mine to 36 yards. Oh well, more range time for me!
@haleystrategic6 thanks for clarification
@CharleyVCU1988 These are rules of thumb. In my opinion you should find out what your projectile out of your particular rifle is actually doing, and zero to maximize your point blank range
@@CharleyVCU1988I watched Sean Ryan here on the Tube and he gave a complete explanation of the difference using the 50,36and 100 yard zeros.
I like the 36 Yrd zero because as Sean demonstrated that the spread all the way out to 300 was about 6 inches. The same spread that’s about the size of a music CD..But that’s using a Red dot optic such as an EOTECH /Aimpoint etc..And with the 36 you don’t need to change your zero so often. Not to say you shouldn’t check it.
But however, when using my LPVO I use the 50/200.
So depending on your OPTIC it’s ok to use the 36..It’s become my favorite zero.
It’s true, most don’t confirm their zeroes apart from the range they typically shoot which is usually 50y and in, maybe 100 if being generous. If they run long range courses then people would easily realize that their zero wasn’t actually zeroed.
Although I do prefer shooting from a bench or a vise and getting comfortable while seated. Prone is good too, but a vise and a bag is typically mechanically more sound. It’s especially true with taller optic heights where some may have some discomfort from shooting too much in the prone. Also, if the target is at a relatively different elevation from where you’re shooting from (I.e. shooting from prone but the target is at hip or chest level), that elevation is another point of consideration. Hence, it adds to wanting to zero seated while the target would be in the same height as the rifle on a table from 0-300y for confirmation without any variable for change in elevation from shooter to target.
I’ve been zeroing my weapon the way I was taught at Ft Benning, GA back in 1987. Works for me. I always got the same sight picture by touching the charging handle with the tip of my nose. There is nothing like getting that weapon deep into the V shape of that sandbag. I get 3 shots in a dime every time.
AATW!
🎉
I have shot my entire life and cause of hunting big game out zero was very important, since not hunting as much and shooting more for sport and stay dangerous I have had an eye opening watching this ! I have eotech n everything I watched in going to do! Thanks for your service , n for your insight ! 🤙
Excellent video and break down of the How and the Why behind zeroing and how so many small factors play a big role in your zero, and thus accuracy.
“I have a really good cheek weld”… meanwhile, his cheek is nowhere near the stock. 😅
He actually has angle of the jaw on the stock. 😳
Thank you for this information. I've been having a heck of a time zeroing my rifle. I'm going to go out and try your method. Subbed!
If the goal simply to zeroing the rifle, I try to take myself out of the equation as much as possible. Practicing shooting technique, this is great👍
I disagree slightly. You are always part if the equation. The shot is a combination of you and the rifle. You are one with the rifle ideally. If you take yourself out of the equation when zeroing, then you are setting yourself up for problems in a real world scenario, because now you ARE part of the equation.
I think regardless of your particular discipline, it's essential to zero your rifle in a position that's as close to how you intend to use it as possible.
I am zeroing my two rifles this weekend. This has been a wonderful video to help me mentally, but also logically. It was easy to follow and easy to make sense. Thank you for explaining the acronyms for those of us that do not know. "K.I.S.S." it, thank you for that. I have a better game plan on what I will do moving forward.
11b OSUT 2009 We definitely zeroed weapons with irons sights at 50m first, mag in dirt. Then they gave us CCO's to zero with. I also remember zeroing with a bore laser in the barracks as well. You'll know if you zeroed correctly at qual.
Here’s the backstory. We had to play the game by teaching BCT POI for group/zero, but if you remember, we’d actually group you low on the black silhouette of the 25m zero target. There was a reason. Then we’d take you out to the acoustic feedback LOMAH range (with the little TV screens) to verify zero at distance and get you dialed in. But after that, we would deviate from the POI by taking you out to the KD range on Dixie Road. You remember, the huge open range where you moved closer and farther shooting from different burms, while a platoon was behind the final burm lifting and lowering targets. That’s where we adjusted you for a 200m zero (50/200), which was the best all-around zero for the shortest vertical shot string. We would adjust both irons and 68’s out there. It’s also where we taught you to piss in an open field by taking a knee. Fun times baking in that goddamn heat, so we’d do y’all a solid and call the gut truck out for powerades and pizza slices. We only did this with 11B’s. For my third year on the trail, I got sent to Relaxin Jackson where it was just shake my fuckin head non-combat MOS BRM where we couldn’t show the trainees all the finer combat applications techniques. Hated it.
We had some ridiculous number of people qualify expert with those 68's.
I actually had a Harder time zeroing a acog in theater with the little red delta reticle at 50m than I did the cco.
Great times.
@@nivonis393 True. The 68’s were such a game changer that they became standard on all BCT rifles. I’ve got a serious love/hate relationship with my ACOG, so I feel ya. That short eye relief. Back in the day we were hoping for a 3x version of the 68.
Travis literally dug a ranger grave for his shoulders... what a legend
If one is zeroing and they have access to a bench and some bags, I would recommend that as well. Not a sled, but just good shooting bags. Plus being at a bench is a position that is kind of in between standing and prone in regards to head and neck placement.
Depends. Different holds and positions have an effect on POI. It's insignificant in some weapons and very significant in others. Many firearms people aren't even aware if hold sensitivity, but I am hyper aware of it as I compete with spring piston airguns, which experience radical POI shifts if you change your hold. It's usually best to zero how you're intending to use the rifle. It eliminates variables, and you are also zeroing according to practical accuracy that you can achieve in a realistic scenario. If you're concerned that you aren't achieving pinpoint accuracy, fire more shots and get an average. You aren't going to be as accurate as that in a real world scenario, so why fool yourself with bags?
@@Patrick-857 So why not zero standing and unsupported?
@@dammain1068 You could. It would waste a lot of ammo though. Maybe the test to see after you zero from a more stable position and see what effect it has. If your intending to use it standing, then it's probably important to know what effect it will have.
@@Patrick-857 I understand what you are saying, but you aren’t “fooling yourself” with bags. You are helping to eliminate shooter induced error. If the bags give stability then you know that the zero is as close to the ballistic path as possible. If you are low when you shoot standing then you know you are anticipating recoil. The bags allow for the natural recoil of the rifle, as opposed to a sled. Your air gun has a forward recoil impulse which is why how you hold it can effect the impact.
@@dammain1068 US Service Rifle Competition demands shooters have good zeros for prone, sitting, and standing position at each distance target is engaged from a position. In my case I have 11 zeros which are for a no wind condition. The standing zero required 3 weeks of daily 50 minute dry/ live fire exercises to get a corollary between shot calls and strikes to actually understand my error precisely. It was worth the effort though, taking me from a 92% standing score average to a 96% average standing score, which helped me earn the US Distinguished Rifleman Badge.
Very much appreciated this sharing of knowledge. Fantastic presentation with the multiple instructors explaining the different parts👍
When it comes to finding the proper zero, or rather optimizing a zero, I think velocity should play a significant role in the decision as to what distance you should zero. Plugging in your height over bore, velocity, and projectile weight into a ballistics calculator can change that decision drastically. Especially with BDC reticles you need to actually do the math to see how your setup aligns with the stadia lines.
Generally speaking, I figure out what my max point blank zero is first, and then worry about if any of that stuff matters.
Unless you are in very open areas, its rare for more than a 300 meter shot.
@@takingbacktoxic7898300 meters or yards?
That is my local PD range. Very cool. I live 1/2 mile away. We conduct our department training there all the time. 👍🏻
Where exactly is this? I heard him say Florida.
Looks nice!
AS YOUR TARGETS ARE MOVING IN THE WIND.. I think there's a lot of value to this video, but some things you should have covered are best practices overall. If you're at a range that can give you a better edge on zeroing your rifle with equipment, you eliminate almost all human error. Your video is great for people who need to zero and barely have two sticks to rub together. It would have been great to see or hear about better methods for ideal scenarios. Thank you!
I much prefer the 100 yard zero because hold overs are easier to remember. I hope to take a class with you guys in the future.
While 100 yd zeros have purpose, what is your gun doing up close is also reasonable question and practical. I believe this is what this vid is trying to convey - know where your impacts are over a spectrum, not just a single data point. We used to zero at 36 and then confirm at 100, and this gave a reasonable idea if you caught the trajectory on the front end or the back end for shorter shots.
it shouldn't be 100 yards it needs to be 100 meters. Understand bullet climb at 25-100-200
Everyone should be trained this way. love this instruction.
Fantastic video, and explanation. My previous understanding of Zero was rounds impact, moving sight to the point of impact, and that's it. I love the significance behind why you need to build trust and data to serve people with reliable shot placement if you need to defend loved ones.
EXCELLENT video! I’m a rookie at this point In shooting to this degree. However I will get better as this is incredibly interesting! Thank you
Nothing like a 30min explanation for a 5min job
for real. what the fuck is this 😂
Nice, simple and precise explanation. Love it!!!
Hey I’ve been following you over the years and I know you were a firm believer in the 36 yard zero in the past. Has that changed to 50? Keep up the good work on educating us, thank you!
Rules of thumb are just that. Doesn't necessarily work with the myriad of setups in civilian hands. In the military maybe, because everyone gets the same setup.
Ideally you find the zero distance that optimises your point blank range for your particular setup and ammo. Every other approach will cause anomalies.
For the standard AR setup with irons the sight height is true for a concurrent 36 and 300yd zero. That's why it's so specific...36yds. If you zeroed that same rifle at 50, you'd be true at 200. BUT....with that zero, you're shooting low at 300 and very low at 400. Basically with a 36/300 zero you are no more than 4" away from your intended elevation out to like 400yds. You zero for 50/200....you don't have that. Bullet is shot too horizontal and drops quickly. 36/300 is your best option for 10 rings out to almost 400yds with no elevation adjustment.
As a very interested newcomer, I can say that I love this video.
It shows in great detail what is happening physically, how to interpret it and how to correct it.
great video, you have my subscription! Thank you very much!
Been watching Haley since his (*redacted*) times. The evolution of knowledge has been insanely impressive. Glad to see new content coming and education for us laymen. Keep it up 👍
Really appreciate the value shown how having a 50-200 zero is preferable in regard to an overall battle zero. I've trained with former Navy team members suggesting a 100 yard zero based on how they instruct.. Although good. With refined knowledge, I think I have a new battle zero. The only addition is a point of telling new shooters you"ll need to hold under at 100. Ballistics are everything as you stated. Very helpful video. Thank you kindly.
I've been acquiring some excellent equipment over time, but I now need to really start learning to zero and train effectively with it now. I've spent a good amount of money getting some stuff, but now it's time to put it to good use and get really effective with it.
Love seeing content like this from y’all. Hope to see more in the future.
I have to ask... why not throw on a bipod and use a rear bag. Or front and rear bag, just to get a definite zero? That's my process. Even down to a 7" 9mm pdw. Front bag, rear bag or bipod abd rear bag. Once zero is established then that shit goes away. Thoughts?
You can! If you choose.
@haleystrategic6 see to me it makes more sense to get a precise zero from a stable position, then go and do this. My fear is if you don't have a very stable position, you could zero the rifle to your flinch or breath or something vs getting a true zero. Like an inexperienced shooter hitting low left consistently with a handgun then drifting sights. The shooter is hitting low left not the gun.
You want the rifle zeroed to itself mechanically. Not to your human inconsistentcy. . The gun should be perfect by itself Then whatever little difference or human error you have between shots won't be magnified. If the gun is mechanically perfect then you know it's you and what you need to practice
@@hunterhiker6101looked stable enough to me
As a Marine, this was the best zeroing explanation I’ve seen. Good job guys.
What does being a marine have to do with it lol
@@Furiouspenguin27💀
@Furiouspenguin27 considering the Marine Corps has the most in-depth rifle marksmanship qualification of all the services, it has a lot to do with it.
Of course, not every Marine meets the highest standards of those qualifications, but those that qualify in the "Expert" tier know damn well what they're talking about when it comes to basic rifle marksmanship.
@kychristell1779whether a Marine is a pog or not has nothing to do with their ability to hit the target.
I've seen plenty of grunts go unq on the range.
@@TheDAP8576 okay boot. I shot high expert in rifle and pistol qual, I’m very aware of the Marine Corps qualifications. You shoot once a year and it is not hard at all to pass or even hit expert. It’s cringe to start off any comment with “as a Marine, soldier, vet, etc.”
New subscriber here!
Well said, "stay sharp, be safe, and die free", Amen brother!
Thank you for this amazing video and now it clears up a couple things for me on "zeroing" and I will start using this!
Didn’t know Apple was selling MagSafe lowers now. Need me one of them
I appreciate your teaching style and explanations.
The grass on that range is more well kept than my front yard
This Florida range keeps things very well maintained
This is the best video I have seen about zero-ing for a rifle but specifically a AR. This may allow me to enjoy my AR more. It has taken a back seat to my bolt action 308 which I shoot at Long distance. I wish you would do an addendum part 2 going out to 500 yards. And also my biggest challenge, windage for a AR at those ranges.
An AirTag on the AR that’s interesting
I came here wondering this too.
Same
😆 me two that's smart he knows where it's at at all times
I'm guessing it gets put on a plane somewhat regularly.
Very good video guys, walking through the whole process for us.
I love how when he "dug his mag in" it suddenly grew a foregrip, a surpressor, a laser, and an apple mirror device on the magazine well. Awesome! But I've been trying this and it doesn't work for me. What am I doing wrong?😮
Because it's a completely different person lol
Just found this channel. Seems like what you guys do is no nonsense, no BS. I’m primarily an LR dude but need to brush up on my carbine skills. As soon as you get carbine course’s out here in the west, I’ll be in it👍🏽 🇺🇸 Semper Fi
I would definitely appreciate seeing an explanation about how different heights over bore affect zeros and points of impact.
True, very important. And so is barrel length. I had to research this recently as I had to zero a piggyback dot with a HOB of 4.75 inches. With a high HOB, you have to zero further out because if you zero at say 25, you will be shooting 12 inches at 100 yards due to the barbell being angled to high. I found that using 75gr ammo, a 75 yard zero was the flattest out to distance (75/225 yard zero).
@haleystrategic6lmao wtf is this shit
@haleystrategic6 thank you and please include the GBRS hydra and the Unity FAST in that testing
I've experimented with effects of height over bore and even a 1/2" can make a huge difference on your near zero. It also makes a difference on far zero and max pbr. But in the end you have to settle on the most comfortable riser height and then cez is what it is. All zero's are moving targets but I've settled on point blank zero's for red dots because they are the resultant of entering the actual m.v./b.c./height over bore/target size.
You can plug in height over bore on basic ballistic calculators and it should give you a rough estimate on the changes
Great video and you have a new subscriber.
The guys at the range think I am nuts. Every time I go I set up 3 targets. 50 yards, 100, and 200. At 50 and 100 I set up paper targets that I can measure. At 200 I have a 10" steel AR550 round plate painted white with a 3" orange painted circle in the middle. My range has a max of 200 yards.
I verify at all 3 distances every time I shoot. In fact that is why I go. If ever needed I know the weapon is ready. I have 5 AR's that I rotate with this process. I take one at a time with each visit. Although I do use a sandbag.
90% of the time the results are consistent but there are those times that it seems to move on you for whatever reason. So you adjust.
I have 5 AR's with different optic set ups for variety. I have a Sig Romeo 8T with an Eotech 5x mag behind it. I have a T2 with an Eotech 5x mag behind as well. I have two rifles with a PA PLX 1-8 LPVO (both of these have an offset red dot), and one rifle that I usually have some kind of PA prism sight on either a 3x or 5x.
Overkill? Probably, but it keeps each range visit fresh, and enjoyable while enforcing good habits.
Great video. Would have been great to discuss the guys different optics setups. Especially differences when zeroing with absolute co witness, lower 1/3, or higher mounts. Maybe do that in another video because I know optic height with change where you hit on paper at different ranges.
More to come
Deltathirtyfour has a great set of (2) videos called “best red dot zero” that explains exactly that. The graphics that he uses to explain those concepts in the videos are fantastic learning aids
@@gcm423deltathirtyfour is such an underrated channel. that guy is probably my favorite youtuber his videos are so in depth and easy to understand.
@@gcm423 That was a super informative video. I knew that velocity made a big difference in zero selection, but never considered height over bore.
@@Mini-TOutdoorsMedia I’m glad I was able to direct you to a valuable resource
This is really wonderful! It answers many questions I've had over the years that no one else seems to address. And I love this idea of 'chasing the zero'. Your weapon, environmental conditions, etc. are never exactly the same, so it makes perfect sense that there's no 'one size fits all'. Sorry if this is a silly question/suggestion, but I'd love to see you cover the differences when shooting .308/7.62, as opposed to 5.56. Cheers!
Bro got an AirTag on his rifle🤣
Man, I love the way y'all explain everything.