Dude, great job! I love seeing a guy do a job the right way. I've got a 2002 f-150 With 9 codes. Lean fuel on right and left bank, O2 sensors, crank positioning sensor. I've already reached back behind the intake and felt the 2 rods have fallen out of the IMRC bushings. So I'm gonna go ahead and replace a the intake and plenum gaskets while I'm fixing the grommets. The IMRC is almost impossible to get to without removing the plenum.
Dude, these are the best video's I've seen. Excellent. Would you please inform me when your neighbor moves, I want to find a neighbor like you. Seriously, thanks for taking the time to help us out.
Great work! My son's F-150 has the same exact problem. Discovered it in the driveway after the truck had sat a while. I suspected anti-freeze was leaking into the combustion chamber because of periodic white smoke on cold starts.
I just replaced the timing set on my 4.2 van.and it feels seized..I can turn the engine maybe half rotation before it locks up,then I can only turn the engine backwards.could this be hydro locked? Also I found one of those D shaped clips that I saw part of the manifold gasket in my oil pan.how bad is that?
The reman blocks are crap. I've taken plenty of the reman blocks apart to find mismatched pistons, rods, etc... Also the cheapest of the cheap parts and gaskets are used in those engines. Those companies are all about maximizing profits. No thanks!
Hi AllMuscle. Thanks for the great videos on this issue. I managed to catch mine prior to the actual hydro-lock. Is there a straight forward procedure to clear out all of the antifreeze that would have leaked down into the engine? Also, is there a way to tell if the antifreeze leaked beyond the rings without doing a complete tear down? First engine gave up the ghost at 82,000. This is a Grooms engine that's wheezing at 240,000. Your statement concerning re manufactured engine internals is spot on.
@@rcwphotography4830 Just for anyone else who might ask this, you drain your oil, and if any antifreeze/water got past the rings, it will be floating on top of the oil, or your oil will look like mud if it's emulsified.
Dude, great job! I love seeing a guy do a job the right way. I've got a 2002 f-150 With 9 codes. Lean fuel on right and left bank, O2 sensors, crank positioning sensor. I've already reached back behind the intake and felt the 2 rods have fallen out of the IMRC bushings. So I'm gonna go ahead and replace a the intake and plenum gaskets while I'm fixing the grommets. The IMRC is almost impossible to get to without removing the plenum.
Dude, these are the best video's I've seen. Excellent. Would you please inform me when your neighbor moves, I want to find a neighbor like you. Seriously, thanks for taking the time to help us out.
Great work! My son's F-150 has the same exact problem. Discovered it in the driveway after the truck had sat a while. I suspected anti-freeze was leaking into the combustion chamber because of periodic white smoke on cold starts.
Is it the 4.2 v6. Or a V8 model. The v6 is the one that has this issue. The v8 models usually leak to the outside.
@@ALLMUSCLEUSA It's the 4.2 V6.
I have this problem on my 99 F150. What was actually making the noise? Was it one of the piston rods?
How on earth did it you manage to line up the bolts for the lower manifold with the thicker upgraded gaskets?
I just replaced the timing set on my 4.2 van.and it feels seized..I can turn the engine maybe half rotation before it locks up,then I can only turn the engine backwards.could this be hydro locked? Also I found one of those D shaped clips that I saw part of the manifold gasket in my oil pan.how bad is that?
Where did you find replacement main bearing cap bolts and studs? Ford OEM. Part number 6345.
I have a 2000 f150 4x4 w/ a seized 4.2L Can you recommend a re-manufacturer? or would you rebuild? what are the pros n cons to each?
So you had to buy new heads? or they were just machined?
Just cleaned up. They were checked for cracks and warping. All was good.
It looks exactly like the Ford 3.8 V6 Mustang come with...
What about hydrolocked with oil
With all the cost in parts and ALL the labor you did, it makes better sense to find a complete reman long block on ebay.
The reman blocks are crap. I've taken plenty of the reman blocks apart to find mismatched pistons, rods, etc... Also the cheapest of the cheap parts and gaskets are used in those engines. Those companies are all about maximizing profits. No thanks!
Hi AllMuscle. Thanks for the great videos on this issue. I managed to catch mine prior to the actual hydro-lock. Is there a straight forward procedure to clear out all of the antifreeze that would have leaked down into the engine? Also, is there a way to tell if the antifreeze leaked beyond the rings without doing a complete tear down? First engine gave up the ghost at 82,000. This is a Grooms engine that's wheezing at 240,000. Your statement concerning re manufactured engine internals is spot on.
Shiiiiiiiit. If you can build it, it's worth WAY more to build it right. Fuck a reman
@@rcwphotography4830 Just for anyone else who might ask this, you drain your oil, and if any antifreeze/water got past the rings, it will be floating on top of the oil, or your oil will look like mud if it's emulsified.