V15 Climber Reveals Exact Training Routine | ft. Emil Abrahamsson

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About The Guest:
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and RUclipsr from Sweden.
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[@thenuggetclimbing]

Listen to the full episode 👉 www.patreon.com/posts/follow-up-emil-80403653
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[@dumbcrumb879]

Really interesting how Emil talks about how he trains contact strength a lot and how it so important but when he did the lattice test he scored fairly low in contact strength compared to other climbers doing the same grades. There must be some other element that makes him appear to have good contact strength or maybe the latice test doesn't see the full picture.

[@thecrafx6395]

iirc the lattice test talked about dynamic technique as a possible answer right? As in it might be in training he's better at timing and getting his dynamic movements in that "sweet spot", possibly something he's benefited from training more than raw strength, although surely not the full picture? (i may be chatting bollocks)

[@alexgalays910]

Could be so many things... He was tired and a bit sick that day, I wouldn't be surprised if contact strength was the first thing to weaken. Also lattice metrics are an O-K proxy but that's all they are. Emil seems to have good contact strength. Another option is that the requirements just skyrockets at V15/V16 due to the average nature of the moves (impossible to static, very wide moves on tiny crimps, etc)

[@GuyLNelson]

Maybe the fact that contact strength is a relative weakness for him is why training it is crucial to his success. Someone who already has excellent contact strength probably wouldn't benefit as much from continuing to train it as someone who is often being limited by contact strength would.

[@MSHNKTRL]

Noting the Tire Checker behind right of the host's head. Practical.

[@deathsoulger1]

I've been climbing 1 day on, one day off. Probably 3 hours a session

[@ThatLaggyNoob]

1:36 "Enjoy Bibliography" by Alex Megos

[@eurekaflows]

It's really sad that the full episode with @EmilAbrahamsson is locked behind $ (Patreon) - and because this is a follow-up episode, it will likely never see public release. I get that he has to make money somehow (and I guess ad revenue from public episodes isn't enough), but this stings for the majority of us who actually want to listen to this.

[@nutscream]

Yeah, also podcast who actualy grow are free, with some ad revenue or sponsors.

[@eurekaflows]

@@nutscream 100% agree. To add, climbing as a sport is growing faster right now than it ever had in the past. To this new audience, paygated content is an extremely hard sell when the standard is free + ads/sponsors.

[@Synthysizer]

@@eurekaflows the 'majority of us' can likely afford $5 to listen to all the episodes you want to and then unsubscribe until there are enough to warrant repeating the process.

[@davidbecker54]

@@eurekaflows it's $5 a month, which equates to $60 a year...probably quite less than what you spend on a few beers out for one night. Also the amount of time that Steven has to probably spend on producing just one episode is probably a lot more time than you could imagine. The free podcasts generally have a lot of sponsored money backing them, so you could sponsor Steven to make a free podcast?

[@alexgalays910]

Also the podcast episodes have ads already, no? AG1 or something.