Heyo peeps! I've made a little follow along video for anybody who would find it easier to try this themselves that way: ruclips.net/video/3FNZdixeuZw/видео.html
I am a surgeon. Finger health is, like lots of other commenters, paramount to my livelihood. I always had terrible pulley pain but for about a year now I used the twice a day method...with my own way of interpreting it. I use any edge available to me to hang on, since I don't always have access to a finger board. Usually a door frame. I NEVER fully weight bear on these exercises and I think this is the most important aspect to it. For the first time since I've started climbing, my hands/fingers are completely pain and stiffness free and I feel more confident not getting injured. Has it made me stronger? Probably no. Do I feel better and more confident training and climbing? Absolutely.
Try "rice bucket" training. This thing is essential for hands' health. It is really the cure to the most problems with hands. You can fill the bucket with sand or whatever. It doesn't need to be rice actually
@@twoblocksdown5464 I use the squeeze balls with the band that goes around your fingers for resistance opening and closing. I’m guessing it’s a similar thing?
@@shaneh7519 while it's benefitial too it is not the same. You just can't compare this two. It is like comparing swimming with working out with rubber band
@Extr3me IMO strength gains don't come from the low level loading that is the point of these frequent, sub body weight hangs. I don't even like to call this hangboarding, really. Its just to keep the fingers, my pulleys (a2 and a4 especially) and flexor tendons in good condition. And for that, it 100% works. Having healthy fingers, in turn, has allowed me to do max hangs once a week without pain and go hard on the Moonboard without fear of injury. That's what helps me get stronger.
Hey friends! After the last video on this subject (Feb 2021) I said I’d post an update in a month or two.. ended up being a long month 😅 I hope you like this episode and follow-up, and that it answers some curiosities that arose from the previous one! Anyway, I’ll be away for the coming hours for the Nordic Championship final, so I’ll respond to comments a bit later, just fyi! Wish me luck 😊 PS. get Crimpd, it’s good for your health
@@o.gingras I had the same issue - I happen to own an Android device as well as an iPhone, so I thought to check (as Emil shows it on an iPhone) - and it seems that this workout is for now available only on the iPhone version of the app. The update for Android will hopefully come a bit later (I compared the exercise counts per category and it seems that only this one is missing, by the way).
@@o.gingras @Roman Štubňa - just close the app and restart it. I have it on both Android and iOS. Just couldn't see it on one device without force closing the app.
I’m a professional violinist and avid climber so finger health has obviously been a major concern for me. I have to say this protocol has been amazing for me this last year. I’ve had exactly the same experience with the feeling of both less stiffness and increased recruitment in my sessions during the times when I’ve been consistent with it. I listened to the Lattice interview with Emil about it and liked the clarification that the protocol has more to do with tendon health rather than strength. Emil said it allowed him to pull harder in actual sessions and that was also pivotal to his gains. I appreciate the sharing and can add my voice to the non-scientific crowds of people benefitting from this!
Oh my gosh, finally a musician weighs in!!! I’m the lead guitarist in a metal band, so finger health could not more pivotal for me. I’ve had a hard time finding good information out there for climbers/musicians. I’m really curious about your journey. Have you ever had conflicts between your ability to climb hard and play violin? At this point, I’m just collecting anecdotes.
Oh my gosh, finally a musician weighs in!!! I’m the lead guitarist in a metal band, so finger health could not more pivotal for me. I’ve had a hard time finding good information out there for climbers/musicians. I’m really curious about your journey. Have you ever had conflicts between your ability to climb hard and play violin? At this point, I’m just collecting anecdotes.
@ Hey man! Nice to hear from another musician climber! Yeah no big conflicts yet. I’ve just been really careful with my fingers the whole time. My main thing early on was not overdoing it. Then about a year in I incorporated some easier fingerboard training. Repeaters about once a week plus Emil’s protocol. Mostly I’ve just climbed 2-3 times a week and tried to not be a hero when my body is telling me to stop. I’ve also supplemented with collagen although I have no idea if that has actually helped. Being careful maybe slowed my progress a bit but I got up to V8 in about 2-3 years which feels fast enough to me. Also injury will slow you down way more than being careful and injury isn’t really an option with my career.
As an electrician, something that is definitely an ongoing concern for me is finger health, since it seems pretty common for older electricians to develop arthritis in their hands. Your first video on this encouraged me to get a hangboard (I was pretty new to climbing at the time), and I've been doing this routine off and on ever since. Whenever I've stopped for too long, I start noticing a dull ache in my hands from work, and when I get back on this routine my fingers start feeling healthy and strong again. I'm so glad I came across your channel, and especially the original hangboard routine video, it has changed my finger health for the better ❤.
@@michaelmourtadh2583 something to think about is, regardless of the presentation of symptoms (unless the pathology, such as arthritis, actually physiologically modulates your tissue's ability to adapt to a mechanical stress), there is always the chance that doing something like hangboarding (or any other hand exercise that puts a lot of stress on the intrinsic structures in the hand) may help reduce pain symptoms if done properly. It certainly won't do this for everyone, but anyone could try it (again, unless somehow their pathology actually fundamentally changes something about the tissue that would affect the ability to adapt to stress) if they start at the right intensity, and progressively overload that. If your arthritis causes pain, there is a possibility that exposing your arthritic hands to something like hangboarding could progressively desensitize your hands to that pain sensation, which I would say is more often than not a good thing. Please bear in mind that I am an exercise physiologist and not an OT or PT or medical doctor so obviously take this with a grain of salt; but long story short, yeah this could definitely be a considerable rehab avenue if used correctly.
I think you guys have nailed it. It's really about motor learning in a controlled environment. As Emil aptly points out, climbing inherently tends to be chaotic. This makes it an example of what's called "random practice". Meanwhile, the hangboard sessions described would be considered a form of "blocked practice". Since it has been established that motor skills are more efficiently acquired through the combination of blocked and random practice than with either one alone, it makes perfect sense to conclude that regular hangboarding of this type is likely to cause a climber to develop more refined gripping technique. Any purely physiological changes that might also be occurring is really a separate matter.
I've use this program on and off since the first video released. I think, for me, the best use has been for creating a base before starting heavier hangboard/harder training routine. Over the course of a few weeks it primes the tendons so I can then start doing a max hang or repeater protocol with confidence that I won't hurt myself.
Been on this protocol for about 6 months, only doing one 10-minute sesh a day instead of two. Went from pulling 130lbs on a 20mm tension block in August 2023, to now rocking a 4-second one-arm hang on the 21mm middle edge of the Beastmaker 2000 (I'm 180lbs). Was kinda doubting the protocol at first, but dang, it's been a game-changer. Helped with my finger tenosynovitis and helped a ton with rehabbing multiple pulley injuries. Currently dealing with a partial tear on my left middle A2, but I'm eyeing that one-arm hang on my left hand this year! Thx a lot for sharing Emil!
Love the nerdy content! I saw that first video about this topic a few month back, started doing hangs for a bit but stopped because I was unsure about injuries. after hearing that it is reasonably safe for beginners I will definitely pick the habit back up so I can continue to speedrun bouldering! Also good luck in the finals my dude!🙏
Thanks for this content, Emil! Can confirm. 6 months into my own version of this protocol and fingers are healthier, more resilient, and stronger than ever. I do submaximals (about 10%-20%) for 30 seconds on each finger, index to pinky, in a drag position and then crimp position with no rest between. Then I do front 3 drag, back three drag, and roll from half crimp to full crimp continuously for another 30 seconds each. Whole protocol takes 7 minutes and I do it once per day. On climbing days it's a part of the warmup. Haven't had a finger tweak in the entire 6 months and my high grades have improved due to confidence in finger health. The Keith Barr study and yours and Hooper's analysis/implementation of it have indeed revolutionized my climbing.
@@nicolaibatstad6881 front 3 drag is open hand with 3 fingers(without pinky) and i think back three drag is done (without index finger) but with pinky finger.
I really like the part where your discuss hangboarding for beginners! I've been climbing for 1.5 years, and partially ruptured my pulley after 3 months. For recovery, I was recommended to do submax hangs in different grip positions and have kept the practice even after fully recovering. Indeed finger/tendon health is what I feel now! I think beginners should hangboard but following good guidance from people that know about finger health. This is also a great way to learn/understand different grip positions!
This is very interesting. I also think it's great that you include an experts point of view, and that you include a number of disclaimers. (I may also be biased since Kalle, the expert in the video, helped my fingers recover from a persistent injury!)
Like many others here, fingers are important to livelihood. I have a day job doing network architecture and datacenter ops (where I absolutely have to have all 10 functional fingers to pay the bills), and a side hustle of working in a studio doing instrumental sessions, recording, and mixing. So I need my fingers, strength, and dexterity even more for the side job, where I may be playing a guitar, bass, keyboard, drums, cello, or violin, depending on what the session needs. Or mixing a song with lots of equipment that has little dials and knobs. :) I'm also a volunteer EMT in my rural district so I also need my fingers to treat patients. I also need a great deal of strength to lift heavy patients out of awkward spaces and carry them down stairs, through narrow hallways, etc. We need to plan, lift, and move patients rapidly to give them the best chances of survival. I've myself been injured working to get someone else who was injured out of their predicament - tendon injuries are quite common amongst EMS. Avoiding tendon injuries and taking an evidence-based approach to training is high on my list of priorities, since I also started climbing this year. I turned to climbing as a way to help strengthen the "little" supporting muscles that I always seemed to tear first on lifting (which then puts me out of commission for weeks or months as I'm older, at 46 years of age). Takes longer for things to heal at my age. Thank you for providing a program which will not only help my hobby climbing, but also (so far) has made me a better musician and EMT. Fingerboard training has absolutely increased my endurance on music sessions - I can play longer without fatigue - and I am not tearing little support muscles that I used to frequently rip on heavy lifts of heavy patients.
Most injuries to the Fingers are not to the tendon itself but to the ligaments guiding the tendon. That training helps to build resillience in the passive structures aka ligaments. The model i came up with why it helps with recruitment is more indirect. Tissue has a fedback loop to the brain and if its near to damage it stops recruitment of the musle fibers. So probaply throu strengthening the passive structures it helps to go more to physiological Limit of the structure. Also as i recal Keiths Bars research was on ligamnets not an tendons, but was quit impressive!
For a small time (about 1.5month) is used to do a small light morning training. About 5 set of 20reps with easy grippers, 2 sets of easy pinches, 2 set of easy wrist wrench, 2 set of easy finger extensor, and 2 light set of easy wrist flexion and extension. No hangboarding tho as i didnt have an hangboard at home. I remember during this time my fingers and my hand would feel really good on the wall, not tweaky as they always feel, Seeing this video, il start to do that again with a little bit of hangboard too.
Thank you both for your dedication, research, testing, and most importantly, for sharing these results with all of us so that we might implement the same training processes. Thank you Abrahamsson brothers!
this is about to be my new frequent Chanel because it's very informative and I can start trying these Rick climbing things to get stronger but really to have more control over my body
I've found the daily sub-maximal hangs really helpful in maintaining my fingers while taking breaks from climbing. Thank you so much for sharing! I've been able to come back from months of no climbing at all, and still feel good on crimpy climbs. That's with a few minutes of finger loading during my morning meetings.
Dealing with my first finger injury and I came across your original video with this training earlier today. Then watched the hoopers beta video warning about possible tendon stiffness and was discouraged. Opened up my RUclips app for the night and behold was this video. Looking forward to starting this
It's been a year since I sen his videos, but he would spew conjecture for the sake of a youtube view. Funny, he came into my gym one night and was top roping and got shut down on 11c @@angustaylor711
THANK YOU!!!! Im so motivated to get back to climbing and just started working out again. I am so stoked to try this!!! Thank you for sharing all your hard work!!!
When i just got into climbing the first thing i did was buying myself a handboard. I have an anxiety in gyms. I used it just as you described but for other reason. I was too weak to properly hang 😅. I leaned until I could hang properly. This approach helped me to build the necessary strength(neuron connections) in order to do conventional handboard training to build muscle strength.
I started using a hangboard routine similar to this as a warmup before every climbing session and my fingers have felt much less tweaky. Even old pulley injuries that used to flare up occasionally stopped coming back
I think one of the main reasons I’ve heard for beginners to avoid finger board training is not injury related. More that getting very strong fingers early will hamper technical growth which might be harder to learn after getting higher up in grades and you need to check your ego to learn new skills. I do a similar protocol a few times a week with a Tindeq but will gradually increase the frequency. Thanks!
I had an injured Foot and got a surgery. So i didn't climb for nearly 3 Months. I knew this Training since your first Video. Back there i used it in the Lockdown for staying in shape. And it worked. Now, i use it again to get back in shape and being prepared to start Climbing when i'm allowed to. It feels great to do that. For me it's a really good Recovery- and Preparation-Exercise.👍🏼💪🏻
I’m 50 and have been climbing off and on for the last 25 years. I boulder at the gym 2 times per week. On some weeks I have time to add 1-2 hang board workouts on the off days - always my fingers feel less sore and more recovered on those weeks. Also - really interesting point on the recruitment of the muscles. By far my weakest skill would be large pinches. When I find some time to work some pinch hangs in, I always feel like I have some added pinch strength during my next climb session. So anecdotally seems like my experiences support a lot of what you’ve looked at - really enjoyed the follow up!
Love the view on finger training (particularly hangboarding) for beginners. I've never fully understood why that's been advised against, though I think some people just confuse it with campus boarding.
I pimped the new protocol still a bit by adding ring finger - pinky pair for full crimp and open hand, extending the practice to 12 min. Feels really good!
This content is great keep it up. As a physio who had an interest in finger injuries even before a started climbing I get behind this hypothesis and tendons need to be loaded to build resilience. I just need to get my habits in order and do it myself for more than a couple of days in a row...
I also struggle with constant tweaks and injuries, so i‘m interested in giving this a try. The neurological recruitment sounds nice for a potential additional area for specific training towards some projects. What i would think about when talking about „sub maximal“ is stuff like yoga, or other movement patterns that use muscles, but don‘t exhaust them. Also sounds like this could potentially be a way to structure your warmups specifically for recruiting and causing neurological change. Ross Folkerson has a very comprehensive warmup where he uses a lot of movements very specific to his climbing. He mentions recruitment a lot, and how in the movements, the specific movements aren‘t that important but whats more important is focusing on contracting the muscles, which come down to neurological ability to trigger them, which may in turn have similar effects to the simple hangboarding routine. Additionally, having more bloodflow to the areas that get stressed during training is definitely a good thing for recovery, which may be especially important for tendons. Lastly, i would like to mention that recently i started visiting a physio, due to a current injury but also because i‘m very injury probe in general. According to her, my tendons/muscles are overly flexible? Maybe that ties in with the discussion about „stiff“ tendons, and would explain why easy climbing and easy hangboarding results in tweaky fingers. Long story short, it seems to be an interesting and potentially very valuable training method for certain people. Thanks for the video ✌️
I started climbing only a couple months ago and don't have a hangboard, but my bed has a wooden rail of sorts in the ends (basically a 20 mm thick wooden board) and since I am still a beginner, it's easily enough for me to train half crimp and 3 finger open hand grip for now.
I copied your protocol from 2 years ago and also changed to 10 sec on 20 off. Have been using to get back into shape after a very long injury (double herniated disc).
Totalt psyched to try it!! Sadly been off from climbing for years. Coming back to climbing again(!) now and I still feel reasonably strong but my fingers are weak and "tweaky" and exhausted for a week after a normal session. But I've also always been able to relate to Felix experience even when i climbed 12+ hours per week and was in descent shape. Here I thought I had to wait for a year or more before using my hangboard again, but.. Tomorrow I'm putting my hangboard up again!!
Hey Emil, I’m sure this will got lost in the sea of comments, but I just want to thank you for sharing this great routine. I’ve been doing this daily for almost a month now after seeing your original video on it. My climbing has really improved quickly since. I’m now flashing problems in a grade that I was attempting for months (with literally zero progress) prior to starting this. This has also seriously improved/rebuilt my finger strength since straining my fdp. I would highly recommend this to anyone. At first start off light, maybe only 50% of your body weight and then move up once comfortable.
I've been doing something similar where after every climb I do 4-5 light hangs. When I'm consistent about this, I don't feel stronger per se, but I feel WAY less sketchy/achey in my fingers
Me and my friends call it "Helse heng" (health hangs), done it regulary for two years, usually once a day. I mostly feel the improvement in how much training my fingers can take. Total gamechanger for me. If i had the "extra hardware" maybe i'd gain as much as Emil.. :D But i have done my hardest climbing in a period of contiuned helse hengs. Same as Felix sais at the end.
Im a calisthenics athlete and a big thing I need to work on is tendon strength in my elbows for planche. Im going to use this strategy to improve my neural adaption there as I would assume this would work for all tendons. If it does then my progress is thanks to you
I was fascinated by the study you posted in your original video and started a similar routine to strengthen my knee tendons - since I've had knee pain for over 15 years. I had some level of knee pain playing basketball in university, during my "olympic" weightlifting days in early twenties, during my MMA career in my late twenties, and during normal gym training in my early thirties. But now I do 45 second squat holds at 45 degrees (where it used hurt my knee tendon the most) twice a day, every day. My knees have literally never felt better since I was literally half my age.
Don't climb, but found this interesting. Some of the points made make perfect sense to me. The rapid progress in the beginning is basically just the software (neurological adaptation) better utilising the existing hardware which the body wisely over specs by default. The tendons being softer and more prone to break makes sense too. If you think of the tendons as the cables that drive those pre-hydraulic diggers, then of course they should be very stiff cables. Softer(stretchier) cables would exceed their elastic deformation limits and then experience plastic deformation and then failure faster. Ideally, they would be so strong that they barely elongate under load so as to ensure they're entirely within their elastic deformation mode. Not trying to be a patronising ass here, but if someone's not aware: Elastic deformation is when you bend/stretch a material and it will ALWAYS no matter how many times you do it return to its original shape entirely unharmed. Plastic deformation is when you push beyond that limit and you permanently alter the shape. It may still have some elastic properties, but it will never ever naturally return to the prior state. I don't think I have to explain what happens when you go too far beyond plastic deformation. A good example of elastic deformation is literally every large plane ever. The wings bend in flight, and return. A good example of plastic deformation is the somewhat terrifying but ultimately ok story of China Airlines Flight 006. After extreme maneuvers that came close to causing enough damage to cause the inability to control the plane it ultimately landed safely. The wings were permanently bent. They still flexed (elastic deformation) in flight normally, and it wasn't unsafe to fly (once repaired), but they were never able to return to the angle they were built at. So it must be with tendons. There's an amount they can be stretched and always rebound. There's an amount beyond that where they will stretch permanently and never shorten (let's ignore the fact they're organic systems which kinda circumvent the material science rules here) and there's an amount beyond that where they break.
It's important to differ a stiff tendon from stiff muscle. Tendons are stiff by nature. Muscle can be more or less stiff due some factors (e.g. stretching routine). Indeed, many studies have found that stiffer muscles are more prone to develop strain injuries.
You should add the link to the trx attachment. I can tell you that I and I guess many other people have issue hand boarding at home cause they can’t fix anything on their weak walls. So this one seems like a good solution in that case
At 3:13 you talked about a door attachement to use a portable hangboard. Where can I buy one? I searched online and I found nothing. From what I understood you call it a ‘Trex door attachement’ but I can’t find it online
My question for everyone here is, if you’re doing this twice a day - or even once a day - and climbing 3ish times a week, when do you find the time to train max hangs/repeaters/campus board while getting in enough recovery time?
For me these additional short sessions don't really affect the rest of my training because they are such low intensity. Obviously there is a question of having the time to do them but I do 10 minutes of something similar to Emil's no-hangs in the evening at home regardless of whether I trained or climbed that day (I usually train in the morning).
I might try this protocol again... However, I have been making sure to warmup on the hangboard lately before every session and had similar results. I'll start with easy grips and move up, maybe doing a few pull-ups as well. Fingers are not tweaky, and making progress. I just fear with a twice daily routine I'll burn out rapidly.
Really interesting video, I will definetly want to try this since I think it could truly benefit me and make me more prone to finger injuries. Thanks for the video Emil
I started climbing a few months ago and was interested in specialized training, so I found the other video right away. I’ve always been afraid to try it though because of the standard advice not to push it. Now I just might!
don't push it. Your connective tissue isn't up to the specific load from this training. give it 2 or 3 years minimum of regular climbing or you will get injured. . focus on techniques and mental aspects with regular antagonist training and body composition. happy climbing it's a great sport/lifestyle
I started training with the same method you talked about in your last video but at a lower frequency (maybe 3x/week) and the difference was incredible. I felt so much progress almost immediately.
Hey Emil awesome vid, definitely gonna experiment with this. A huge question I have though, is did you do any weighted hangboarding protocols while you were also using this protocol? And if you didnt, i think it would be interesting to know if that would be good for strength gains or just be excess. This also goes for any other intense finger strength training (campus board, moonboard, or other training boards, etc)
I have been doing 100 pull ups,200 pushups, 300 sit ups and 300 air squats all with a weighted vest everyday. On May 15 I’ll have completed one year. I have gained a muscle up, I can hold a lever, I can hold a full Planche. It is absolutely crazy what can be achieved by “everyday” training.
How would you fit the surround training if you are climbing either in the morning or the evening? Your example of climbing in the afternoon seems to work perfectly around a morning and evening no hang session, but if that isn't possible would you just skip it when you are doing more high intensity work?
Coming into climbing after years of boxing, I've always struggled with the tendons in my wrists and forearms. I'm hoping that between this protocol and hang training to increase forearm circulation that I may finally solve those issues.
Would have been cool if you were able to provide some linked sources for the claims the expert made on building neurological pathways as well as the reduced injury rates with stiff tendons.
What lead to the doubled volume and the reduced rest time? Do you think your newer protocol serves you better in general or was it from in increase in recovery capacity. Im mainly asking this to see if i should follow the old protocol, with greater rest and less volume, or try the new one you have. Thanks!
I train weightlifting and I've had a similar experience, when I'm snatching, clean & jerking and squatting sub maximal weights 5 times per week, sometimes twice a day, I get a lot stronger all the sudden, but it's mostly from brain-muscle coordination. That's why we focus on getting more muscle (hardware as you call it haha) in the off season, and then training with a lot more volume on the specific movements that we need for competition, being Snatch, Clean&Jerk, Squats and pulls. You gotta get more hardware whenever you can, but without the software update you're not gonna get the most out of it.
I started doing this a bit ago as well. Just the 10 minutes, as I have it in my warm up routine (I don't have a hangboard at home). Definitely saw improvements. My relative definition of "a hold that's too small to hold" has changed significantly. It is especially noticeable compared to a friend of mine who started climbing at the same time as me and was at pretty much the same level as I was. I feel like it unlocked a plus grade in just a few weeks for me, like you said, I could access strength that was already there. Plus my fingers never felt better.
half year ago i saw that video, and actually give it a try but... maybe bc i was starting at climbing or just surpass the intensity, my fingers started to feel tweaky haha. but ill give it another try, mostly bc i dont feel good gains in normal hang boarding (and i dont have enough time bc college). thanks a lot for the update emil :)
@@EmilAbrahamsson I'd be very interested to receive some more details about the exact intensity you are using for the workout (compared to the max force you are able to apply on the 20mm edge). Eg. your max force is 200% BW and you'll be doing the workout at 60% BW (four fingers 20mm edge). I have tried it in the past but my fingers felt tweaky instead of better, so I'm guessing I had the intensity too high. My max force is 165% BW and I'm currently trying the workout again, at 40% BW (four fingers 20mm edge).
11:30 I think this is the.. crux of the problem, beginners have a hard time telling what feels reasonable. The belief that beginners shouldn't use hangboards was a very sensible recommendation but in the context of that they can't know where their limits are, what pain means fatigue and what pain means damage. With proper guidance a complete beginner can do anything without danger, but you can't just let them loose to do whatever.
Another great video! i recently injured my lumbrical a couple of weeks ago from being an idiot on a hard pocket and i think doing this might be a good idea for me since this is the second time i have gotten a finger injury.
Holy shit that was 2 years ago? wtf? Thanks for the update, and props to both you and the lattice guys for getting it on crimpd. So do you do other hang board sessions like max hangs as well? From my understanding this just a supplement to whatever other training and climbing that you do? edit: seems you sort of answered this somewhere else, in that you make sure there is a 6 hour gap between this protocol and an actual session.
Super video again Emil! i just have a quick question. do you warm up before the no hangs or do you start them straight away since it's a very low intensity?
This is super random but I've been doing crimp holds on the top of the doorway of the bathroom door at my work and I can hold for way longer than I used to, watching this video just gave me some reassurance 😂😂
Crimpd app downloaded and first session of this protocol done! I'm interested to see the results if I can keep it going consistently. But straight off I like that includes open hangs as I've found them to be a huge weakness of mine.
Heyo peeps!
I've made a little follow along video for anybody who would find it easier to try this themselves that way:
ruclips.net/video/3FNZdixeuZw/видео.html
I am a surgeon. Finger health is, like lots of other commenters, paramount to my livelihood. I always had terrible pulley pain but for about a year now I used the twice a day method...with my own way of interpreting it. I use any edge available to me to hang on, since I don't always have access to a finger board. Usually a door frame. I NEVER fully weight bear on these exercises and I think this is the most important aspect to it.
For the first time since I've started climbing, my hands/fingers are completely pain and stiffness free and I feel more confident not getting injured. Has it made me stronger? Probably no. Do I feel better and more confident training and climbing? Absolutely.
Try "rice bucket" training. This thing is essential for hands' health. It is really the cure to the most problems with hands. You can fill the bucket with sand or whatever. It doesn't need to be rice actually
@@twoblocksdown5464 I use the squeeze balls with the band that goes around your fingers for resistance opening and closing. I’m guessing it’s a similar thing?
@@shaneh7519 while it's benefitial too it is not the same. You just can't compare this two. It is like comparing swimming with working out with rubber band
Wait so hangboardign on a door frame twice per day hasnt made you stronger? How?
@Extr3me IMO strength gains don't come from the low level loading that is the point of these frequent, sub body weight hangs. I don't even like to call this hangboarding, really. Its just to keep the fingers, my pulleys (a2 and a4 especially) and flexor tendons in good condition. And for that, it 100% works. Having healthy fingers, in turn, has allowed me to do max hangs once a week without pain and go hard on the Moonboard without fear of injury. That's what helps me get stronger.
Hey friends!
After the last video on this subject (Feb 2021) I said I’d post an update in a month or two.. ended up being a long month 😅
I hope you like this episode and follow-up, and that it answers some curiosities that arose from the previous one!
Anyway, I’ll be away for the coming hours for the Nordic Championship final, so I’ll respond to comments a bit later, just fyi! Wish me luck 😊
PS. get Crimpd, it’s good for your health
I don’t see your training on Crimpd 🤔 Is it free?
@@o.gingras weird, it is free and should be easy to find! If you search “Emil” it should pop up!
@@o.gingras I had the same issue - I happen to own an Android device as well as an iPhone, so I thought to check (as Emil shows it on an iPhone) - and it seems that this workout is for now available only on the iPhone version of the app. The update for Android will hopefully come a bit later (I compared the exercise counts per category and it seems that only this one is missing, by the way).
Isometrics in many positions to recruit strength. Red Delta Project, Bioneer, Bruce Lee :)
@@o.gingras @Roman Štubňa - just close the app and restart it. I have it on both Android and iOS. Just couldn't see it on one device without force closing the app.
It's already been 2 years? No way, I refuse to believe
Haha time flies mate
We are the old guys now
Dude, I was thinking the same thing. Like holy shit Emil posted this 2 years ago already????
I can't believe this has been hanging out in the back of my mind for that long!
Terrifying
I’m a professional violinist and avid climber so finger health has obviously been a major concern for me. I have to say this protocol has been amazing for me this last year. I’ve had exactly the same experience with the feeling of both less stiffness and increased recruitment in my sessions during the times when I’ve been consistent with it. I listened to the Lattice interview with Emil about it and liked the clarification that the protocol has more to do with tendon health rather than strength. Emil said it allowed him to pull harder in actual sessions and that was also pivotal to his gains. I appreciate the sharing and can add my voice to the non-scientific crowds of people benefitting from this!
Can you link the interview?
it's about fascia obliviously
Oh my gosh, finally a musician weighs in!!! I’m the lead guitarist in a metal band, so finger health could not more pivotal for me. I’ve had a hard time finding good information out there for climbers/musicians. I’m really curious about your journey. Have you ever had conflicts between your ability to climb hard and play violin? At this point, I’m just collecting anecdotes.
Oh my gosh, finally a musician weighs in!!! I’m the lead guitarist in a metal band, so finger health could not more pivotal for me. I’ve had a hard time finding good information out there for climbers/musicians. I’m really curious about your journey. Have you ever had conflicts between your ability to climb hard and play violin? At this point, I’m just collecting anecdotes.
@ Hey man! Nice to hear from another musician climber! Yeah no big conflicts yet. I’ve just been really careful with my fingers the whole time. My main thing early on was not overdoing it. Then about a year in I incorporated some easier fingerboard training. Repeaters about once a week plus Emil’s protocol. Mostly I’ve just climbed 2-3 times a week and tried to not be a hero when my body is telling me to stop. I’ve also supplemented with collagen although I have no idea if that has actually helped. Being careful maybe slowed my progress a bit but I got up to V8 in about 2-3 years which feels fast enough to me. Also injury will slow you down way more than being careful and injury isn’t really an option with my career.
As an electrician, something that is definitely an ongoing concern for me is finger health, since it seems pretty common for older electricians to develop arthritis in their hands. Your first video on this encouraged me to get a hangboard (I was pretty new to climbing at the time), and I've been doing this routine off and on ever since. Whenever I've stopped for too long, I start noticing a dull ache in my hands from work, and when I get back on this routine my fingers start feeling healthy and strong again.
I'm so glad I came across your channel, and especially the original hangboard routine video, it has changed my finger health for the better ❤.
❤️
I am curious about how this protocol can help with arthritis could it help with recovery
@@michaelmourtadh2583 something to think about is, regardless of the presentation of symptoms (unless the pathology, such as arthritis, actually physiologically modulates your tissue's ability to adapt to a mechanical stress), there is always the chance that doing something like hangboarding (or any other hand exercise that puts a lot of stress on the intrinsic structures in the hand) may help reduce pain symptoms if done properly. It certainly won't do this for everyone, but anyone could try it (again, unless somehow their pathology actually fundamentally changes something about the tissue that would affect the ability to adapt to stress) if they start at the right intensity, and progressively overload that. If your arthritis causes pain, there is a possibility that exposing your arthritic hands to something like hangboarding could progressively desensitize your hands to that pain sensation, which I would say is more often than not a good thing. Please bear in mind that I am an exercise physiologist and not an OT or PT or medical doctor so obviously take this with a grain of salt; but long story short, yeah this could definitely be a considerable rehab avenue if used correctly.
how come electricians have this problem? do you think its overuse/specific positions?from what?
Why do electricians have arthiritis?
Didn't expect another update on this! looking forward to watching!
I think you guys have nailed it. It's really about motor learning in a controlled environment. As Emil aptly points out, climbing inherently tends to be chaotic. This makes it an example of what's called "random practice". Meanwhile, the hangboard sessions described would be considered a form of "blocked practice". Since it has been established that motor skills are more efficiently acquired through the combination of blocked and random practice than with either one alone, it makes perfect sense to conclude that regular hangboarding of this type is likely to cause a climber to develop more refined gripping technique. Any purely physiological changes that might also be occurring is really a separate matter.
I loaded up RUclips specifically to watch your original hangboard protocol video again and I find this as the first hit!
Love this update! Would be good to see a video on what more intense training you did when you were at your strongest alongside the sub-max daily hangs
It’s incoming! Should be in 2-3 videos from now
I've use this program on and off since the first video released. I think, for me, the best use has been for creating a base before starting heavier hangboard/harder training routine. Over the course of a few weeks it primes the tendons so I can then start doing a max hang or repeater protocol with confidence that I won't hurt myself.
Been on this protocol for about 6 months, only doing one 10-minute sesh a day instead of two. Went from pulling 130lbs on a 20mm tension block in August 2023, to now rocking a 4-second one-arm hang on the 21mm middle edge of the Beastmaker 2000 (I'm 180lbs). Was kinda doubting the protocol at first, but dang, it's been a game-changer. Helped with my finger tenosynovitis and helped a ton with rehabbing multiple pulley injuries. Currently dealing with a partial tear on my left middle A2, but I'm eyeing that one-arm hang on my left hand this year! Thx a lot for sharing Emil!
Love the nerdy content! I saw that first video about this topic a few month back, started doing hangs for a bit but stopped because I was unsure about injuries. after hearing that it is reasonably safe for beginners I will definitely pick the habit back up so I can continue to speedrun bouldering!
Also good luck in the finals my dude!🙏
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Thanks for this content, Emil! Can confirm. 6 months into my own version of this protocol and fingers are healthier, more resilient, and stronger than ever. I do submaximals (about 10%-20%) for 30 seconds on each finger, index to pinky, in a drag position and then crimp position with no rest between. Then I do front 3 drag, back three drag, and roll from half crimp to full crimp continuously for another 30 seconds each. Whole protocol takes 7 minutes and I do it once per day. On climbing days it's a part of the warmup. Haven't had a finger tweak in the entire 6 months and my high grades have improved due to confidence in finger health. The Keith Barr study and yours and Hooper's analysis/implementation of it have indeed revolutionized my climbing.
I do practically the same. Sensation of better finger health idd. Could you explain more what you mean with "front 3 drag" and "back three drag"?
@@nicolaibatstad6881 front 3 drag is open hand with 3 fingers(without pinky) and i think back three drag is done (without index finger) but with pinky finger.
I really like the part where your discuss hangboarding for beginners! I've been climbing for 1.5 years, and partially ruptured my pulley after 3 months. For recovery, I was recommended to do submax hangs in different grip positions and have kept the practice even after fully recovering. Indeed finger/tendon health is what I feel now! I think beginners should hangboard but following good guidance from people that know about finger health. This is also a great way to learn/understand different grip positions!
This is very interesting. I also think it's great that you include an experts point of view, and that you include a number of disclaimers. (I may also be biased since Kalle, the expert in the video, helped my fingers recover from a persistent injury!)
Like many others here, fingers are important to livelihood. I have a day job doing network architecture and datacenter ops (where I absolutely have to have all 10 functional fingers to pay the bills), and a side hustle of working in a studio doing instrumental sessions, recording, and mixing. So I need my fingers, strength, and dexterity even more for the side job, where I may be playing a guitar, bass, keyboard, drums, cello, or violin, depending on what the session needs. Or mixing a song with lots of equipment that has little dials and knobs. :)
I'm also a volunteer EMT in my rural district so I also need my fingers to treat patients. I also need a great deal of strength to lift heavy patients out of awkward spaces and carry them down stairs, through narrow hallways, etc. We need to plan, lift, and move patients rapidly to give them the best chances of survival. I've myself been injured working to get someone else who was injured out of their predicament - tendon injuries are quite common amongst EMS.
Avoiding tendon injuries and taking an evidence-based approach to training is high on my list of priorities, since I also started climbing this year. I turned to climbing as a way to help strengthen the "little" supporting muscles that I always seemed to tear first on lifting (which then puts me out of commission for weeks or months as I'm older, at 46 years of age). Takes longer for things to heal at my age.
Thank you for providing a program which will not only help my hobby climbing, but also (so far) has made me a better musician and EMT. Fingerboard training has absolutely increased my endurance on music sessions - I can play longer without fatigue - and I am not tearing little support muscles that I used to frequently rip on heavy lifts of heavy patients.
Most injuries to the Fingers are not to the tendon itself but to the ligaments guiding the tendon. That training helps to build resillience in the passive structures aka ligaments. The model i came up with why it helps with recruitment is more indirect. Tissue has a fedback loop to the brain and if its near to damage it stops recruitment of the musle fibers. So probaply throu strengthening the passive structures it helps to go more to physiological Limit of the structure.
Also as i recal Keiths Bars research was on ligamnets not an tendons, but was quit impressive!
For a small time (about 1.5month) is used to do a small light morning training. About 5 set of 20reps with easy grippers, 2 sets of easy pinches, 2 set of easy wrist wrench, 2 set of easy finger extensor, and 2 light set of easy wrist flexion and extension.
No hangboarding tho as i didnt have an hangboard at home.
I remember during this time my fingers and my hand would feel really good on the wall, not tweaky as they always feel,
Seeing this video, il start to do that again with a little bit of hangboard too.
Wow!! Mad props Felix! And loved to hear from the finger expert!
This feels very well-analyzed and scientific. Amazing research and compilation, Emil.
We find your older protocol 2 months ago, and now our fingers feel much better! Thank you! Will try your new protocol now, cant wait! and good luck
Thank you both for your dedication, research, testing, and most importantly, for sharing these results with all of us so that we might implement the same training processes. Thank you Abrahamsson brothers!
this is about to be my new frequent Chanel because it's very informative and I can start trying these Rick climbing things to get stronger but really to have more control over my body
When i started hangboarding 3 months ago I used your training as I found it doable as a complete beginner.
I’m glad it wasn’t just a fluke.
I've found the daily sub-maximal hangs really helpful in maintaining my fingers while taking breaks from climbing. Thank you so much for sharing!
I've been able to come back from months of no climbing at all, and still feel good on crimpy climbs. That's with a few minutes of finger loading during my morning meetings.
Dealing with my first finger injury and I came across your original video with this training earlier today. Then watched the hoopers beta video warning about possible tendon stiffness and was discouraged. Opened up my RUclips app for the night and behold was this video.
Looking forward to starting this
Yeah hooper seems like a fraud, just bad at what he does.
@@Frodoswaggns I’m not a doctor or an expert in any related field so I can’t really say one way or another
@@Frodoswaggnshe is a qualified clinician making evidence based decisions, no? What makes think he is bad at his job, or in some way a fraud?
It's been a year since I sen his videos, but he would spew conjecture for the sake of a youtube view. Funny, he came into my gym one night and was top roping and got shut down on 11c @@angustaylor711
THANK YOU!!!! Im so motivated to get back to climbing and just started working out again. I am so stoked to try this!!! Thank you for sharing all your hard work!!!
When i just got into climbing the first thing i did was buying myself a handboard. I have an anxiety in gyms. I used it just as you described but for other reason. I was too weak to properly hang 😅. I leaned until I could hang properly.
This approach helped me to build the necessary strength(neuron connections) in order to do conventional handboard training to build muscle strength.
I started using a hangboard routine similar to this as a warmup before every climbing session and my fingers have felt much less tweaky. Even old pulley injuries that used to flare up occasionally stopped coming back
I think one of the main reasons I’ve heard for beginners to avoid finger board training is not injury related. More that getting very strong fingers early will hamper technical growth which might be harder to learn after getting higher up in grades and you need to check your ego to learn new skills.
I do a similar protocol a few times a week with a Tindeq but will gradually increase the frequency. Thanks!
Did my hang boarding while watching this video 💪
I had an injured Foot and got a surgery. So i didn't climb for nearly 3 Months. I knew this Training since your first Video. Back there i used it in the Lockdown for staying in shape. And it worked. Now, i use it again to get back in shape and being prepared to start Climbing when i'm allowed to. It feels great to do that. For me it's a really good Recovery- and Preparation-Exercise.👍🏼💪🏻
I’m 50 and have been climbing off and on for the last 25 years. I boulder at the gym 2 times per week. On some weeks I have time to add 1-2 hang board workouts on the off days - always my fingers feel less sore and more recovered on those weeks. Also - really interesting point on the recruitment of the muscles. By far my weakest skill would be large pinches. When I find some time to work some pinch hangs in, I always feel like I have some added pinch strength during my next climb session. So anecdotally seems like my experiences support a lot of what you’ve looked at - really enjoyed the follow up!
This is incredibly informative, thank you. Really hope you cover something similar to do with compression strength!
Love the view on finger training (particularly hangboarding) for beginners. I've never fully understood why that's been advised against, though I think some people just confuse it with campus boarding.
I pimped the new protocol still a bit by adding ring finger - pinky pair for full crimp and open hand, extending the practice to 12 min. Feels really good!
I’m so happy with this update video. Going to share with everyone I know
I’ve been waiting for this!!!
I had been tempted to ask for an update on your old video like every other day 😂
Thanks Emil for making an update on this and for answering the question about tendon stiffness, which was one of my main concerns!
This content is great keep it up. As a physio who had an interest in finger injuries even before a started climbing I get behind this hypothesis and tendons need to be loaded to build resilience. I just need to get my habits in order and do it myself for more than a couple of days in a row...
I also struggle with constant tweaks and injuries, so i‘m interested in giving this a try.
The neurological recruitment sounds nice for a potential additional area for specific training towards some projects.
What i would think about when talking about „sub maximal“ is stuff like yoga, or other movement patterns that use muscles, but don‘t exhaust them. Also sounds like this could potentially be a way to structure your warmups specifically for recruiting and causing neurological change.
Ross Folkerson has a very comprehensive warmup where he uses a lot of movements very specific to his climbing.
He mentions recruitment a lot, and how in the movements, the specific movements aren‘t that important but whats more important is focusing on contracting the muscles, which come down to neurological ability to trigger them, which may in turn have similar effects to the simple hangboarding routine.
Additionally, having more bloodflow to the areas that get stressed during training is definitely a good thing for recovery, which may be especially important for tendons.
Lastly, i would like to mention that recently i started visiting a physio, due to a current injury but also because i‘m very injury probe in general. According to her, my tendons/muscles are overly flexible? Maybe that ties in with the discussion about „stiff“ tendons, and would explain why easy climbing and easy hangboarding results in tweaky fingers.
Long story short, it seems to be an interesting and potentially very valuable training method for certain people.
Thanks for the video ✌️
I started climbing only a couple months ago and don't have a hangboard, but my bed has a wooden rail of sorts in the ends (basically a 20 mm thick wooden board) and since I am still a beginner, it's easily enough for me to train half crimp and 3 finger open hand grip for now.
I copied your protocol from 2 years ago and also changed to 10 sec on 20 off. Have been using to get back into shape after a very long injury (double herniated disc).
Totalt psyched to try it!! Sadly been off from climbing for years. Coming back to climbing again(!) now and I still feel reasonably strong but my fingers are weak and "tweaky" and exhausted for a week after a normal session. But I've also always been able to relate to Felix experience even when i climbed 12+ hours per week and was in descent shape. Here I thought I had to wait for a year or more before using my hangboard again, but..
Tomorrow I'm putting my hangboard up again!!
Super helpful I’ve hit a plateau due to tendon issues and having to take it super easy and I think I will start this to try and help.
Hey Emil, I’m sure this will got lost in the sea of comments, but I just want to thank you for sharing this great routine.
I’ve been doing this daily for almost a month now after seeing your original video on it. My climbing has really improved quickly since.
I’m now flashing problems in a grade that I was attempting for months (with literally zero progress) prior to starting this.
This has also seriously improved/rebuilt my finger strength since straining my fdp.
I would highly recommend this to anyone. At first start off light, maybe only 50% of your body weight and then move up once comfortable.
I've been doing something similar where after every climb I do 4-5 light hangs. When I'm consistent about this, I don't feel stronger per se, but I feel WAY less sketchy/achey in my fingers
Thank you❤
For me it worked.
12 pull-ups instead of 6 in 1 week.
I needed this, thank you! I’ve only been able to hangboard for awhile and am looking for ways to really improve so this is amazing!!
Me and my friends call it "Helse heng" (health hangs), done it regulary for two years, usually once a day. I mostly feel the improvement in how much training my fingers can take. Total gamechanger for me. If i had the "extra hardware" maybe i'd gain as much as Emil.. :D But i have done my hardest climbing in a period of contiuned helse hengs. Same as Felix sais at the end.
Im a calisthenics athlete and a big thing I need to work on is tendon strength in my elbows for planche. Im going to use this strategy to improve my neural adaption there as I would assume this would work for all tendons.
If it does then my progress is thanks to you
I may try it out to help with preventing injuries. Also, that crimpd app looks cool.
Evidently this type of training like others pays off with persistence, great work amigo.
I would appreciate you adding the sources for the studies you are referring to throughout the video
Can't believe it's on Crimpd! Awesome 💪
I was fascinated by the study you posted in your original video and started a similar routine to strengthen my knee tendons - since I've had knee pain for over 15 years. I had some level of knee pain playing basketball in university, during my "olympic" weightlifting days in early twenties, during my MMA career in my late twenties, and during normal gym training in my early thirties. But now I do 45 second squat holds at 45 degrees (where it used hurt my knee tendon the most) twice a day, every day. My knees have literally never felt better since I was literally half my age.
Don't climb, but found this interesting.
Some of the points made make perfect sense to me.
The rapid progress in the beginning is basically just the software (neurological adaptation) better utilising the existing hardware which the body wisely over specs by default.
The tendons being softer and more prone to break makes sense too. If you think of the tendons as the cables that drive those pre-hydraulic diggers, then of course they should be very stiff cables. Softer(stretchier) cables would exceed their elastic deformation limits and then experience plastic deformation and then failure faster. Ideally, they would be so strong that they barely elongate under load so as to ensure they're entirely within their elastic deformation mode.
Not trying to be a patronising ass here, but if someone's not aware: Elastic deformation is when you bend/stretch a material and it will ALWAYS no matter how many times you do it return to its original shape entirely unharmed. Plastic deformation is when you push beyond that limit and you permanently alter the shape. It may still have some elastic properties, but it will never ever naturally return to the prior state. I don't think I have to explain what happens when you go too far beyond plastic deformation.
A good example of elastic deformation is literally every large plane ever. The wings bend in flight, and return.
A good example of plastic deformation is the somewhat terrifying but ultimately ok story of China Airlines Flight 006. After extreme maneuvers that came close to causing enough damage to cause the inability to control the plane it ultimately landed safely. The wings were permanently bent. They still flexed (elastic deformation) in flight normally, and it wasn't unsafe to fly (once repaired), but they were never able to return to the angle they were built at.
So it must be with tendons.
There's an amount they can be stretched and always rebound.
There's an amount beyond that where they will stretch permanently and never shorten (let's ignore the fact they're organic systems which kinda circumvent the material science rules here)
and there's an amount beyond that where they break.
For your portable hangboard where have you bought the black thing that you jam in the door?
It's important to differ a stiff tendon from stiff muscle. Tendons are stiff by nature. Muscle can be more or less stiff due some factors (e.g. stretching routine). Indeed, many studies have found that stiffer muscles are more prone to develop strain injuries.
I saw the other video too and no way it's already been two years lol, that's amazing
Thanks for the insights - great Video! And good luck!
You should add the link to the trx attachment.
I can tell you that I and I guess many other people have issue hand boarding at home cause they can’t fix anything on their weak walls. So this one seems like a good solution in that case
yes, kalle är bäst!!!
tack för videon
I love your socialism in sharing the information; and the statement made by the memorial on the boulder.
At 3:13 you talked about a door attachement to use a portable hangboard. Where can I buy one? I searched online and I found nothing. From what I understood you call it a ‘Trex door attachement’ but I can’t find it online
My question for everyone here is, if you’re doing this twice a day - or even once a day - and climbing 3ish times a week, when do you find the time to train max hangs/repeaters/campus board while getting in enough recovery time?
yeah , same question, i hope someone can answer
For me these additional short sessions don't really affect the rest of my training because they are such low intensity. Obviously there is a question of having the time to do them but I do 10 minutes of something similar to Emil's no-hangs in the evening at home regardless of whether I trained or climbed that day (I usually train in the morning).
Awesome video! I really enjoyed the pacing.
I might try this protocol again... However, I have been making sure to warmup on the hangboard lately before every session and had similar results. I'll start with easy grips and move up, maybe doing a few pull-ups as well. Fingers are not tweaky, and making progress. I just fear with a twice daily routine I'll burn out rapidly.
Really interesting video, I will definetly want to try this since I think it could truly benefit me and make me more prone to finger injuries.
Thanks for the video Emil
I started climbing a few months ago and was interested in specialized training, so I found the other video right away. I’ve always been afraid to try it though because of the standard advice not to push it. Now I just might!
don't push it. Your connective tissue isn't up to the specific load from this training. give it 2 or 3 years minimum of regular climbing or you will get injured.
. focus on techniques and mental aspects with regular antagonist training and body composition.
happy climbing it's a great sport/lifestyle
Eric horst training for climbing
EMIL, can you please talk about finger strength vs grades?
How someone with incredibly weak fingers (on the hangboard) could climb a very high grade.
Haha it’s such a complex subject, but I do have a script for a video like that actually that I wrote last year
I started training with the same method you talked about in your last video but at a lower frequency (maybe 3x/week) and the difference was incredible. I felt so much progress almost immediately.
Thanks for the update! I just started again 2 weeks ago
Hey Emil awesome vid, definitely gonna experiment with this. A huge question I have though, is did you do any weighted hangboarding protocols while you were also using this protocol? And if you didnt, i think it would be interesting to know if that would be good for strength gains or just be excess. This also goes for any other intense finger strength training (campus board, moonboard, or other training boards, etc)
Hi, does this 9:35 mean, i shouldn't strech my fingers after a session?
I have been doing 100 pull ups,200 pushups, 300 sit ups and 300 air squats all with a weighted vest everyday. On May 15 I’ll have completed one year. I have gained a muscle up, I can hold a lever, I can hold a full Planche. It is absolutely crazy what can be achieved by “everyday” training.
training in the OnePunchMan style will not lead to progress =(
@@sasha.climbingcoach He literally had progress
Wow having it on crimpd is liiiiiit!
Such a great useful and interesting video!!
Emil is the strongest youtuber.
What happened to Felix’s climbing over the past two years?
Cool video!
could we see the reasearch concerning tendons being less injury prone when stiffer?
I saw reasearch that said the oposite
How would you fit the surround training if you are climbing either in the morning or the evening? Your example of climbing in the afternoon seems to work perfectly around a morning and evening no hang session, but if that isn't possible would you just skip it when you are doing more high intensity work?
Coming into climbing after years of boxing, I've always struggled with the tendons in my wrists and forearms. I'm hoping that between this protocol and hang training to increase forearm circulation that I may finally solve those issues.
Would have been cool if you were able to provide some linked sources for the claims the expert made on building neurological pathways as well as the reduced injury rates with stiff tendons.
Incoming
@@kallesoderqvist1201 sick thanks man!
What lead to the doubled volume and the reduced rest time? Do you think your newer protocol serves you better in general or was it from in increase in recovery capacity. Im mainly asking this to see if i should follow the old protocol, with greater rest and less volume, or try the new one you have. Thanks!
Great to see the follow up Emil
I train weightlifting and I've had a similar experience, when I'm snatching, clean & jerking and squatting sub maximal weights 5 times per week, sometimes twice a day, I get a lot stronger all the sudden, but it's mostly from brain-muscle coordination. That's why we focus on getting more muscle (hardware as you call it haha) in the off season, and then training with a lot more volume on the specific movements that we need for competition, being Snatch, Clean&Jerk, Squats and pulls. You gotta get more hardware whenever you can, but without the software update you're not gonna get the most out of it.
I started doing this a bit ago as well. Just the 10 minutes, as I have it in my warm up routine (I don't have a hangboard at home). Definitely saw improvements. My relative definition of "a hold that's too small to hold" has changed significantly. It is especially noticeable compared to a friend of mine who started climbing at the same time as me and was at pretty much the same level as I was. I feel like it unlocked a plus grade in just a few weeks for me, like you said, I could access strength that was already there. Plus my fingers never felt better.
half year ago i saw that video, and actually give it a try but... maybe bc i was starting at climbing or just surpass the intensity, my fingers started to feel tweaky haha. but ill give it another try, mostly bc i dont feel good gains in normal hang boarding (and i dont have enough time bc college). thanks a lot for the update emil :)
Gotcha! Try to keep the intensity even lighter then maybe? It can probably be hard to find a good level for some
@@EmilAbrahamsson Yes agree, I'll take it into account, thanks again!
@@EmilAbrahamsson I'd be very interested to receive some more details about the exact intensity you are using for the workout (compared to the max force you are able to apply on the 20mm edge). Eg. your max force is 200% BW and you'll be doing the workout at 60% BW (four fingers 20mm edge). I have tried it in the past but my fingers felt tweaky instead of better, so I'm guessing I had the intensity too high. My max force is 165% BW and I'm currently trying the workout again, at 40% BW (four fingers 20mm edge).
Valuable info, take my like and comment!
The video we've all been waiting for! 🍿
Cheeeeers!
Really fascinating stuff. Thank you guys.
11:30 I think this is the.. crux of the problem, beginners have a hard time telling what feels reasonable. The belief that beginners shouldn't use hangboards was a very sensible recommendation but in the context of that they can't know where their limits are, what pain means fatigue and what pain means damage. With proper guidance a complete beginner can do anything without danger, but you can't just let them loose to do whatever.
Fascinating, thank you for sharing :)
Another great video! i recently injured my lumbrical a couple of weeks ago from being an idiot on a hard pocket and i think doing this might be a good idea for me since this is the second time i have gotten a finger injury.
Hows the protocol going? I have a persisting finger injury and thinking of trying it out
Holy shit that was 2 years ago? wtf? Thanks for the update, and props to both you and the lattice guys for getting it on crimpd.
So do you do other hang board sessions like max hangs as well? From my understanding this just a supplement to whatever other training and climbing that you do?
edit: seems you sort of answered this somewhere else, in that you make sure there is a 6 hour gap between this protocol and an actual session.
How do you balance doing this with actual hard hangboard training? I assume you'd have to rest to some degree prior before pulling at maximal levels?
6 hours of this before a hard session and you should be good! That’s what I do at times
@@EmilAbrahamsson you mean rest six hours before you do the hard hangboard training? I'm slightly confused by what you just said😅
@@sean3888 oh haha yeah, I mean as an example you could do a session of this in the morning, then max hangs afternoon :-)
Super video again Emil! i just have a quick question. do you warm up before the no hangs or do you start them straight away since it's a very low intensity?
This is super random but I've been doing crimp holds on the top of the doorway of the bathroom door at my work and I can hold for way longer than I used to, watching this video just gave me some reassurance 😂😂
Crimpd app downloaded and first session of this protocol done! I'm interested to see the results if I can keep it going consistently. But straight off I like that includes open hangs as I've found them to be a huge weakness of mine.