Cabin fever setting in , thinking about cultivating next year. I listened to an organic farmer say he custom builds cultivators out of old 153 IH's he fabricates them to run 5 sweeps , c shank style , he says most cultivators from 60s on would not allow you to set them really tight and clean the row the way the old ones from the 40s did before there was herbicide. He also prefers fixed fenders , more adjustable I guess. I found his thoughts interesting.I had trouble last year holding the cultivator center behind the tractor, when you turned on ends it would swing to one side , the pins that go through 3 point are about 6 inches long , so the arms would end up at one side or another. Do you put bushings or something on yours so the arms can't slide on pins?
Yeah...cabin fever and brutal cold here. First, the cultivator must track as close to the center as possible. This is more important on rear mount cultivators. The "old timers" here like and still use mid-mount IH cultivators with fixed (solid) row covers and significantly slower ground speed. Second, in the old days they over-worked their seedbed and left very little residue on the surface. These are just different approaches to inter-row cultivation. On my c-shank cultivator, in 30" rows, 3 sweeps will cover the area between the rows. The question becomes, what speed is correct so that I do not throw too much dirt and bury the plants. These guys www.profitorganics.com/products make a product for c-shanks that will help "flow" dirt into the rows without burying the crop. If the c-shank was my only tool, I would buy/make a set of them for my cultivator. I have always preferred a danish tine, so I have worked to perfect its usage. From my perspective, the competition with weeds needs a holistic solution (good soil tilth, good soil fertility, adequate seedbed, planting into moisture, good seed quality, and a dry interval after planting) and no cultivator will fix a problem in these areas. Finally, YES, I use bushings to keep the cultivator centered on the lift arms. The Massey cultivators were made for quick hitches so the gap is wider that the lift arms. Someday, I will dedicate a tractor to cultivation and keep a quick hitch on it (I have two hitches in the barn) when I lose the kids to help me hook it up!!
Ok, I do have a Danish tine also, needs a little work, interesting this guy says weeds are a symptom of poor soil, he believes in "feeding " the soil. If you get bored search Gary McDonald, pro profit ag video on RUclips, you may be familiar with him, I thought he was interesting, I'm sure it's stuff you already know, thanks for the link for the flow gaurds , I've heard of them but didn't know where to find them. I'm trying over 100 acres transition this year , this is going to be the big test, I'd like to do all of my 350 but don't have the guts.
Invest in iron rather that petrochemicals!!! I have heard the profitproag people. They make good points like I made above in the holistic approach to strengthen the crop's ability to compete. I tell transitional guys to get a soil test, including OM, pH, CEC, and Base Saturation AND LIME YOUR SOIL APPROPRIATELY FIRST. If you wish to encourage good crop development/yield and achieve good weed control, you must have soil tilth.
On your cultivator with the rolling shields you made the comment you are running the ducks foot nearest the shield. What Is the setup of the other teeth on that cultivator
On this cultivator (my first pass/gentle cultivator), I use the duckfoot 2.75" shovel next to the shield/row. The next rank is the 4" sweep (two per row). The final rank (one per row in the center) is the 7" sweep. This combination allows maximum control of soil flow by varying speed and rolling shield height.
Ok. Some contact me privately, but I prefer to answer here as many of the questions are not "unique" and many are in transition and have the same question!!
The "aggressive" danish tine uses heavy duty, high clearance shanks (shoup pn SH6670 and still five shanks per row). The shovels are 4" next to the row and the remaining 3 shovels are 7". This combination will ridge the row nicely. I show the aggressive danish tine here... ruclips.net/video/fuGiJgT639o/видео.html
That field went over 50. Flood water went through the field and I had to run the floater about a foot off the ground manually. We had a 12.5" rain in Sept. The varieties we raise are normally feed grade in order to get the best/highest yielding beans.
@@GeigerFarm In India we are maintain distance bet two row is 12 inch and distance bet plant is 1 inch, We get yield 5 to 6 quintal per acre, Show I follow your distance between two row is 30 inch,
Nice video! I living in Lettland, hello from Lettland. And I growing soybeans, too.
Thanks!
Cabin fever setting in , thinking about cultivating next year. I listened to an organic farmer say he custom builds cultivators out of old 153 IH's he fabricates them to run 5 sweeps , c shank style , he says most cultivators from 60s on would not allow you to set them really tight and clean the row the way the old ones from the 40s did before there was herbicide. He also prefers fixed fenders , more adjustable I guess. I found his thoughts interesting.I had trouble last year holding the cultivator center behind the tractor, when you turned on ends it would swing to one side , the pins that go through 3 point are about 6 inches long , so the arms would end up at one side or another. Do you put bushings or something on yours so the arms can't slide on pins?
Yeah...cabin fever and brutal cold here. First, the cultivator must track as close to the center as possible. This is more important on rear mount cultivators. The "old timers" here like and still use mid-mount IH cultivators with fixed (solid) row covers and significantly slower ground speed. Second, in the old days they over-worked their seedbed and left very little residue on the surface. These are just different approaches to inter-row cultivation. On my c-shank cultivator, in 30" rows, 3 sweeps will cover the area between the rows. The question becomes, what speed is correct so that I do not throw too much dirt and bury the plants. These guys www.profitorganics.com/products make a product for c-shanks that will help "flow" dirt into the rows without burying the crop. If the c-shank was my only tool, I would buy/make a set of them for my cultivator. I have always preferred a danish tine, so I have worked to perfect its usage. From my perspective, the competition with weeds needs a holistic solution (good soil tilth, good soil fertility, adequate seedbed, planting into moisture, good seed quality, and a dry interval after planting) and no cultivator will fix a problem in these areas. Finally, YES, I use bushings to keep the cultivator centered on the lift arms. The Massey cultivators were made for quick hitches so the gap is wider that the lift arms. Someday, I will dedicate a tractor to cultivation and keep a quick hitch on it (I have two hitches in the barn) when I lose the kids to help me hook it up!!
Ok, I do have a Danish tine also, needs a little work, interesting this guy says weeds are a symptom of poor soil, he believes in "feeding " the soil. If you get bored search Gary McDonald, pro profit ag video on RUclips, you may be familiar with him, I thought he was interesting, I'm sure it's stuff you already know, thanks for the link for the flow gaurds , I've heard of them but didn't know where to find them. I'm trying over 100 acres transition this year , this is going to be the big test, I'd like to do all of my 350 but don't have the guts.
Invest in iron rather that petrochemicals!!! I have heard the profitproag people. They make good points like I made above in the holistic approach to strengthen the crop's ability to compete. I tell transitional guys to get a soil test, including OM, pH, CEC, and Base Saturation AND LIME YOUR SOIL APPROPRIATELY FIRST. If you wish to encourage good crop development/yield and achieve good weed control, you must have soil tilth.
On your cultivator with the rolling shields you made the comment you are running the ducks foot nearest the shield. What Is the setup of the other teeth on that cultivator
On this cultivator (my first pass/gentle cultivator), I use the duckfoot 2.75" shovel next to the shield/row. The next rank is the 4" sweep (two per row). The final rank (one per row in the center) is the 7" sweep. This combination allows maximum control of soil flow by varying speed and rolling shield height.
Ok thanks. Next spring I am going to slowly start into organic production. So I may have more questions for you by then.
Also the next cultivator you use after this one. Is that one all 5 inch sweeps?
Ok. Some contact me privately, but I prefer to answer here as many of the questions are not "unique" and many are in transition and have the same question!!
The "aggressive" danish tine uses heavy duty, high clearance shanks (shoup pn SH6670 and still five shanks per row). The shovels are 4" next to the row and the remaining 3 shovels are 7". This combination will ridge the row nicely. I show the aggressive danish tine here... ruclips.net/video/fuGiJgT639o/видео.html
Qual o espaçamento entre linhas? Que plantio lindo. Desde já obrigado.
Plantamos em fileiras de 30 polegadas e usamos uma população de plantio de 185.000 sementes por acre!
And did you use a planter o drill
All soybeans are planted in 30" rows. This is necessary for the cultivation passes that follow
what kind of a yield did you get and we're they feed or food grade?
That field went over 50. Flood water went through the field and I had to run the floater about a foot off the ground manually. We had a 12.5" rain in Sept. The varieties we raise are normally feed grade in order to get the best/highest yielding beans.
what do you mean by pass?
Pass refers to a trip across the field with a machine, ie., cultivation, planter, combine, tillage, etc.
how much population per acre
180,000 to 190,000
At both end, I think plant is damage, due to tyre
Yes, but the plants are dense enough that they will grow and cover the gaps🙂👍🏻
@@GeigerFarm
In India we are maintain distance bet two row is 12 inch and distance bet plant is 1 inch,
We get yield 5 to 6 quintal per acre,
Show I follow your distance between two row is 30 inch,
@@rushikeshpadwe5627 I like your plant pattern. We have twin row planters that do similar here 👌.
@@GeigerFarm but actually, yield is very less
Have you amended the soil pH to make it 6.2 to 6.8 with calcium being the dominant base?