Reusing my old input drum, modest rebuild (and learning this stuff), I discovered that the input shaft was slowly being hammered off of it's splines (287,000 miles), difficult to remove forward clutches, overheated code, and forward assembly didn't seem to sit all the way down; It was losing forward oil pressure, my plan was only to fix 4th (burnt band), trash 2-3 accumulator, but none of the forwards had any "Umph!" even before the 1st removal (of tranny), this video, 2 or 3 removal/reinstalls later -- thanks to your air test performance, I have learned more. Now I want a test plate for every tranny that I do. I got a salvage yard input drum, $19 USD, air pressure tested it, build everything back up, 4th reinstall, and every gear is working flawlessly. Thank you a million for your demonstration of air pressure testing; I have become very confident in my valve body vacuum testing already, but air press testing is a game changer for me! Thanks again, I'm subscribing 🙂🙃
Hands down best build video that details everything complete with out any secrets left out .! I don't like the way most trans repair videos show them beat the hell out of it. Flipping it and banging the thing all over the table . Thanks for sharing the years of experience !
Hi Gary, I've watched many videos of assembling this transmission and I must say you've done and excellent job of ensuring that you have good camera angles and good lighting. Not everyone does. I'm going to tackle a 4r75W soon and am taking in all the information I can. Thanks for doing this.
I would love to see you rebuild one of these for a high performance application. I’ve rebuilt one. An 04 4r70w. I have an 03 trans out of my marauder that is gonna see 550hp(I hope) Love your videos
I second this. Planning a rebuild on my first vehicle I have ever owned. 4r70w has about 260k miles, and is roughly 30 years old. I've had the truck for about 12 years. My dad loved the truck, and passed away last year. Would like do restore it all the way, and add about 100hp. I have no clue about transmissions, or performance transmission parts! Anyone have any tips on which parts should be performance, billet, etc? Thanks for the video!
Nice to see it's a rather simple and straight forward transmission. Nice to know the washer for the OD servo will firm the OD shift up. I did the JMOD shift kit to my 4R70W a couple years ago and really like how it shifts but the OD is still stock and mushy. When it comes rebuild time I'll be doing that servo pin upgrade. I see a lot of parts in that trans that look strikingly similar to the old cruise o matic I rebuilt.
Love the video. Have used it every time I put mine back together but you skipped ahead after you did the reverse servo you jump forward and the sun gear, stud shaft is already installed and it messes me up every time and I have to figure out myself what bearings go where. Other than that amazing video.
Hi Gary!! I have a 1997 4x4 f150 lariat and when i put it in drive i have to accelerate the engine for the teran to shift the first gear and after that I have no problem until I have to go back to neutral or reverse and when I put it in drive again I have to accelerate the engine. Any advice on that? Is a 4r70w And what is a good trans kit for rebuild Thank you!
Excellent video. I like you videos because they are so instructional. I really feel like I could disassemble and rebuiled a transmission after watching. You have a decent amount of content on the ZF six speeds. Any chance you could do a rebuild video on one of those, specifically the second gen units? I have a 6HP21 so I have a vested interest. I see a number of disassembly and valve body related videos. I have taken away that the bushings should be replaced with a rebuild. I don't think I have seen a full rebuild, however. Thanks.
Im a student at a college and in my automotive class its for automatic transmissions and we are tearing down 4R70W's, mine is out of a 1998 Ford Crown vic. Its pretty fun for me.
I have one of these 4R70W with 4.6L in a 1997 Crown Vic with 245,000. It shifts without problem but I have a leaking tailshaft seal. So is a 1997 the "old" type where I can replace the bushing without issue? I bought the seal and bushing.
After all that beautiful work anybody who has a 4r70w get the U-hall pan (about 80 bucks) that has a drain plug. Severe service change out all the oil every 12k miles and light regular use every 20k.
Thank you for the video…very helpful. I have a 2001 4R70W out of a mustang. What manufacture of the direct drum and misc pieces do you like to purchase. Trying to avoid crappy parts if I can for a home build. Thank you in advance…
I purchase from Transtar, if you can an OE drum that would be great, Transtar sells aftermarket which i used but if you can get OE from a source or the dealer that is the way to go, overhaul kit i go with Transtec, Bands i think Transtar sends me Borgwarner and Filtran for the filter
Wow.... very interesting about the tailshaft extension housing bushing. I have to start writing down all these tips! Lol Have them organized by transmission. 📝🖊📋✏
I have the same transmission in my Mustang the overdrive Works until it heats up is that the valve body that would cause that problem please respond before I take the transmission out of the car and your video is awesome
Hi Gary, I have a 2005 Ford Lobo 4x4 5.4 liters and starts fail, 1-2, 2-3 gear and overdrive works good, but in the highway the last gear like 3-4 gear slips like neutral. I'm thinking in solenoid or torque converter lockup
i running an AOD in my 70 mustang. want to upgrade to a 4R7oW. The AOD is almost new and i want to use any interchangeable parts into a good 4r70 case and of course i'll need the companion computer. is this a good swap? running 500 dyno HP and torque the same. The AOD is too hard to set shifts and torque converter lockup. 2800 stall converter.
love these videos. started teardown of a 2000 mustang v6 4r70w. It did not have the antirattle clip for the intermediate clutches shown in this video. do all years have it? Trying to get to where I know what kit i want to order.
@@GaryFerraro any suggestions please - my 2000 4r70w reverse clutch has a bit over .100" clearance with 3 new frictions and 2 steels, and a .075" snap ring. What can I do to bring that clearance down to specs?
I put a light scratch into a 4R75 1-2 accumulator bore. Just enough to catch a fingernail. I bought another core and found what kinda looks like galling in the same bore. So I bit the bullet and bought a Sonnax sleeve kit and the Sonnax installation tool. Transtar told me the tool is necessary. The instructions say the tool is not necessary, but convenient. I can't get the lower sleeve into the bore. It feels like an interference or press fit. The upper sleeve feels loose by comparison in the upper bore. I assume the loc tite they recommend will solve for the loose feeling sleeve. I can't afford to screw this up and failure to install correctly looks like a permanent failure. Can you share some insight as to how I'm supposed to install that lower sleeve? Thanks for your time.
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for getting back to me. I tried both halves of the sleeve in both cases. The upper sleeve feels equally loose in both cases and the lower sleeve feels equally unable to fit either case.. There are no scratches , knicks, or burrs that interfere in the lower bores of either case. I removed the high spot of the one light scratch I did cause. The smaller sleeve is tight right at the chamfer in each bore.
If there is an issue installing. Call Sonnax tech line. I’m honestly not sure how loose or tight it should be. Do they talk about reaming or just drop in
@@GaryFerraro, Considering Sonnax says the tool I bought isn't even necessary, I expect that to mean it should drop right in. Just for clarity, the instructions say nothing of any reaming or other tooling required either. I did put a call into Sonnax yesterday, but I'll have to wait until their tech support is open Monday. I appreciate your time and I'll let you know what I learn.
@@GaryFerraro Sonnax tech support was useless. You offered better troubleshooting and they gave me vague suggestive directions to nowhere. I'm still friends with the guys who taught my automatic transmissions classes a long time ago and I'm going to see if they can offer some help.
Hey Gary, I’m in Australia and I find your videos very educational and entertaining. I really appreciate the work and effort you put into them for us....thank you. I have a ford falcon with a zf6hp26 and it drives well except for the slightest shudder at approximately 1000-1500 rpm (lockup). What could be the course? Transmission or torque converter? I’m hoping you know of a common issue. Many thanks mate. 👍🏼👍🏼
I was curious which manufacture you selected for the trunnion bearing you sourced. Is KOKO or Sonnax preferred…? Do you know who manufactures for Ford as an OEM supplier?
Just got finished tearing my transmission apart and it didn't look to bad inside but the only problems I saw was the OD band was completely worn down I have no idea how it even had overdrive and the clutch pack inside the reverse drum (I think thats what its called its what you picked up at 20:07 ?) were burned up pretty good. What would cause this? Was good on fluid level did this have something to do with the OD band being burned up?
I know there are a lot of variables, but I was wondering how long could one of these transmissions could last before you would recommend a rebuild? I have a F150 4.6l with 250K on the clock. Mostly daily driver with light weekend towing and only a handful of really heavy towing (40 hp tractor). Serviced regularly. Currently no issues with transmission. Do I do a preventative rebuild or wait for an issue? Thanks
I put 318k on mine before it started slipping; the OD servo pin bore was heavily worn, allowing loss of forward clutch pressure; I would run yours until their is a problem
Pedro Hernandez thanks. That’s what I’m starting to feel. Not looking to create new problems by pulling it. Just wanted to prevent some internal failures before then. But if slippage likely failure, I’m gonna wait.
I see this failure a lot on the econoline vans, I think I read a Atra bulletin to shorten yoke on the driveshaft some, because the claim it’s binding when van is loaded with weight putting too much load on the rear shaft pushing everything forward braking the clip
At 37:12 you place what I think is the very first bearing. However, it could be a washer. If it is the first bearing, which part goes towards the back and which part goes towards the front? Or can this bearing be placed universal?
I really enjoy Gary's vids and how clean & organized he is. From what I'm learning, maybe it's best to tear the trans down THEN start ordering parts after an inspection. Seems there are several rebuild "kits" and vendors for different areas of the trans. There are several shift improvement kits out there....is this something that is really needed for a daily driver and dependability? Any ideas how a DIY guy could tear one apart and not have the fluid everywhere...kiddie pool?
drain what you can into a pan or bucket or if you have a bench cut a hole and scope the fluid there, if your going to pull the trans, drop the pan first, if you also drop the valvebody, the converter will drain. I always order the basics, Banner kit and my bushings, i know i'm going to need those then after teardown i order the rest
Decent video, but, this is a 4R75W not a 4R70W. The 75 has two speed sensors, the 70 only has the one near the back of the main housing, and I don’t mean the vss sensor on the tail-housing.
35:29. The ring gear, The square teeth on the outside, those are for the parking pawl only? I found one with a corner broken off, was told it can be re used. Do you agree with that at all?
Hello! Just got my 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (with a 4 speed automatic transmission) rebuilt. Is there a certain amount of time that I have to break it in and drive it lightly until I can floor it? Your response is much appreciated!
@@GaryFerraro Another quick question, can I expect a few shudders at low rpms when accelerating slowly from a slop that im experiencing now to go away after driving it some more? Thank you
@@GaryFerraro Im not sure, its been driving no problem it just has a very mild slight vibration when slowly accelerating from a dead stop and a weird but still mild hiccup when shifting from 1st into second. I mean it is a newly rebuilt transmission and I haven’t even put 100 miles on it yet. So I just am confused as to what it even is.
that transmission is the same as that of Ford crown victoria mod 1999 it would help me a lot to know why my transmission fails and I would like to try to repair it myself I am from Mexico and I just saw your video
what happened is the shaft is too long and when its overloaded the drive shaft pushes on it and breaks the clip and bearings, cut the output shaft until the hole is gone and it wont hit and shove the shaft forward to break the clip
I am rebuilding my 4r70w, and I'm having trouble with the stator sealing rings, couldn't get them to snap together, so I used a hose clamp, and that broke them, got a new set and can't get them to snap together
@@sinistersilverado965 Yes, they can be a pain to hook together. I hold one side with a small pocket screwdriver, hold it against the stator and then try to push the other side to hook it up
Gary (or anyone else !): I have a 2004 F150, 4R75. My first rebuild (broken reverse band). It is soft rebuild only, all other components are in good condition and passed the inspection. The question is on the air tests. The direct drum only seems to pass the test if I have assembly lube on the output shaft seals , front and rear. If I apply air to the supply port on the valve body with components dry, the drum does not respond. Is this normal? Thanks in advance !
@@GaryFerraro Thanks, yes. I have verified the new lip seals and shaft seals are installed correctly, no tears or pinches.I have pre-lubed them all generously. I noticed some slight scoring on the end case bore where the output shaft exists. I have installed new steel sealing rings provided in the rebuild kit. Just wondering if there could be a sealing issue there and air escaping. Is some air leak acceptable, since the ATF is much thicker ? Can I buy slightly larger shaft seals and lightly clean up the case output bore? Thanks again for your time.
@@GaryFerraro Yes, only one very small surface gouge, barely catches my fingernail. Covers about a 45-60 degree span area and only on the bottom. Can they be lightly sanded out with emery or wet or dry, and then plenty of lube during assembly? Will the fluid itself aid in sealing ? Thanks again.
Hey Gary...I saw your recent video...your mom's backdrop... But, all I think now is "Turkish prison"...placed right next to Bada Bing (no music today).....
I have a 201 mustang with a AODE4R70W trans missiopn when you but it in drive it woulded go drive right away it toke about 3 seconds for it go ion drive now it the rpms high befor it slams in drive and takes off it shifs good thu all the utill you come to a stop and it kicks out of drive .
Reusing my old input drum, modest rebuild (and learning this stuff), I discovered that the input shaft was slowly being hammered off of it's splines (287,000 miles), difficult to remove forward clutches, overheated code, and forward assembly didn't seem to sit all the way down; It was losing forward oil pressure, my plan was only to fix 4th (burnt band), trash 2-3 accumulator, but none of the forwards had any "Umph!" even before the 1st removal (of tranny), this video, 2 or 3 removal/reinstalls later -- thanks to your air test performance, I have learned more. Now I want a test plate for every tranny that I do. I got a salvage yard input drum, $19 USD, air pressure tested it, build everything back up, 4th reinstall, and every gear is working flawlessly. Thank you a million for your demonstration of air pressure testing; I have become very confident in my valve body vacuum testing already, but air press testing is a game changer for me! Thanks again, I'm subscribing 🙂🙃
Thank you
Hands down best build video that details everything complete with out any secrets left out .! I don't like the way most trans repair videos show them beat the hell out of it. Flipping it and banging the thing all over the table .
Thanks for sharing the years of experience !
Thanks Joe
Gary let me ask you where you prefer for parts ?
@@josephpettus3718 As far as overhaul kits, TransTec is the only brand i use, On the German ZF units i go OE
the video was excellent, thanks for sharing!!
Hi Gary, I've watched many videos of assembling this transmission and I must say you've done and excellent job of ensuring that you have good camera angles and good lighting. Not everyone does. I'm going to tackle a 4r75W soon and am taking in all the information I can. Thanks for doing this.
I would love to see you rebuild one of these for a high performance application. I’ve rebuilt one. An 04 4r70w. I have an 03 trans out of my marauder that is gonna see 550hp(I hope) Love your videos
I do the NAG1 Performance, they are in the Doge Chargers
I second this. Planning a rebuild on my first vehicle I have ever owned. 4r70w has about 260k miles, and is roughly 30 years old. I've had the truck for about 12 years. My dad loved the truck, and passed away last year. Would like do restore it all the way, and add about 100hp. I have no clue about transmissions, or performance transmission parts! Anyone have any tips on which parts should be performance, billet, etc? Thanks for the video!
Great video I refer to your videos often as a new builder in nj thanks again.
Alright another useful video!..
This helps us that are learning On working on this vans!..
God bless you over there..
Yes, i do plenty of these,. Nice trans to work on
Gary Ferraro
Thanks for sharing
Great job describing break down of broken parts, Sets yours above other v ideos
Great video! Very comprehensive. But if you do another one it would be cool if the torque numbers you used were mentioned.
Nice to see it's a rather simple and straight forward transmission. Nice to know the washer for the OD servo will firm the OD shift up. I did the JMOD shift kit to my 4R70W a couple years ago and really like how it shifts but the OD is still stock and mushy. When it comes rebuild time I'll be doing that servo pin upgrade. I see a lot of parts in that trans that look strikingly similar to the old cruise o matic I rebuilt.
Love the video. Have used it every time I put mine back together but you skipped ahead after you did the reverse servo you jump forward and the sun gear, stud shaft is already installed and it messes me up every time and I have to figure out myself what bearings go where. Other than that amazing video.
sorry about that, what time in the video?
Hi Gary!!
I have a 1997 4x4 f150 lariat and when i put it in drive i have to accelerate the engine for the teran to shift the first gear and after that I have no problem until I have to go back to neutral or reverse and when I put it in drive again I have to accelerate the engine. Any advice on that? Is a 4r70w
And what is a good trans kit for rebuild
Thank you!
Excellent video. I like you videos because they are so instructional. I really feel like I could disassemble and rebuiled a transmission after watching. You have a decent amount of content on the ZF six speeds. Any chance you could do a rebuild video on one of those, specifically the second gen units? I have a 6HP21 so I have a vested interest. I see a number of disassembly and valve body related videos. I have taken away that the bushings should be replaced with a rebuild. I don't think I have seen a full rebuild, however. Thanks.
Im a student at a college and in my automotive class its for automatic transmissions and we are tearing down 4R70W's, mine is out of a 1998 Ford Crown vic. Its pretty fun for me.
Glad you enjoy, thats a nice transmission to learn on, it's not to bad to rebuild and very popular, i have about 5 of them to do
Thanks again for your videos. That snap ring used as a spacer below the reverse band had me wondering on the 4R75 I'm doing right now.
2008 f150 4r75e. Rubbing between the center support and the non ferrous drum section. Anti rattle spring installed in same place as yours.
Mostly on opposite sides now
you install it in a different location@@twiztedmowers2
This is great information, thank you for sharing!
Vary very informative video thanks alot
Thank you
Excelente video
Hi Cuba, Your post did not show but yes, do not knock out that bushing on the later units
I have one of these 4R70W with 4.6L in a 1997 Crown Vic with 245,000. It shifts without problem but I have a leaking tailshaft seal. So is a 1997 the "old" type where I can replace the bushing without issue? I bought the seal and bushing.
shouldn,t be a problem, may have to remove the tail housing but it should come right off
After all that beautiful work anybody who has a 4r70w get the U-hall pan (about 80 bucks) that has a drain plug. Severe service change out all the oil every 12k miles and light regular use every 20k.
Thank you for the video…very helpful. I have a 2001 4R70W out of a mustang. What manufacture of the direct drum and misc pieces do you like to purchase. Trying to avoid crappy parts if I can for a home build. Thank you in advance…
I purchase from Transtar, if you can an OE drum that would be great, Transtar sells aftermarket which i used but if you can get OE from a source or the dealer that is the way to go, overhaul kit i go with Transtec, Bands i think Transtar sends me Borgwarner and Filtran for the filter
Mr Gary, I have a 2003 f150 4.6. Is the same kit for all 4r70w?
Wow.... very interesting about the tailshaft extension housing bushing. I have to start writing down all these tips! Lol Have them organized by transmission. 📝🖊📋✏
I really enjoyed this one! It was so long, it gave me something interesting to watch/listen for a while.
I have the same transmission in my Mustang the overdrive Works until it heats up is that the valve body that would cause that problem please respond before I take the transmission out of the car and your video is awesome
Not necessarily. what happens when hot, does it neutralize in 4th or just stays in 3rd gear?
Is the blue thing really needed? can i just use ATF? Thanks
I feel it easy with the trans gel, you could try just ATF, may be ok
Hi Gary, I have a 2005 Ford Lobo 4x4 5.4 liters and starts fail, 1-2, 2-3 gear and overdrive works good, but in the highway the last gear like 3-4 gear slips like neutral. I'm thinking in solenoid or torque converter lockup
i running an AOD in my 70 mustang. want to upgrade to a 4R7oW. The AOD is almost new and i want to use any interchangeable parts into a good 4r70 case and of course i'll need the companion computer. is this a good swap? running 500 dyno HP and torque the same. The AOD is too hard to set shifts and torque converter lockup. 2800 stall converter.
love these videos. started teardown of a 2000 mustang v6 4r70w. It did not have the antirattle clip for the intermediate clutches shown in this video. do all years have it? Trying to get to where I know what kit i want to order.
That year may not have one, no need to put one in
@@GaryFerraro any suggestions please - my 2000 4r70w reverse clutch has a bit over .100" clearance with 3 new frictions and 2 steels, and a .075" snap ring. What can I do to bring that clearance down to specs?
@@pdperformance1 Ask for early AOD reverse input clutches, same diameter but thicker
I put a light scratch into a 4R75 1-2 accumulator bore. Just enough to catch a fingernail. I bought another core and found what kinda looks like galling in the same bore. So I bit the bullet and bought a Sonnax sleeve kit and the Sonnax installation tool. Transtar told me the tool is necessary. The instructions say the tool is not necessary, but convenient. I can't get the lower sleeve into the bore. It feels like an interference or press fit. The upper sleeve feels loose by comparison in the upper bore. I assume the loc tite they recommend will solve for the loose feeling sleeve. I can't afford to screw this up and failure to install correctly looks like a permanent failure. Can you share some insight as to how I'm supposed to install that lower sleeve? Thanks for your time.
Did you try sanding may be burrs or something keeping the sleeve from going in all the way
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for getting back to me. I tried both halves of the sleeve in both cases. The upper sleeve feels equally loose in both cases and the lower sleeve feels equally unable to fit either case.. There are no scratches , knicks, or burrs that interfere in the lower bores of either case. I removed the high spot of the one light scratch I did cause. The smaller sleeve is tight right at the chamfer in each bore.
If there is an issue installing. Call Sonnax tech line. I’m honestly not sure how loose or tight it should be. Do they talk about reaming or just drop in
@@GaryFerraro, Considering Sonnax says the tool I bought isn't even necessary, I expect that to mean it should drop right in. Just for clarity, the instructions say nothing of any reaming or other tooling required either. I did put a call into Sonnax yesterday, but I'll have to wait until their tech support is open Monday. I appreciate your time and I'll let you know what I learn.
@@GaryFerraro Sonnax tech support was useless. You offered better troubleshooting and they gave me vague suggestive directions to nowhere. I'm still friends with the guys who taught my automatic transmissions classes a long time ago and I'm going to see if they can offer some help.
what cause this happing? thank you david sullivan
Thanks for the clear instruction. I have a question where can I find a test plate , I am also a mechanic here in the Philippines.God bless Sir.
Part # OTC product Part # 307-246
Or Try OTC 307-246
Hey Gary, I’m in Australia and I find your videos very educational and entertaining. I really appreciate the work and effort you put into them for us....thank you. I have a ford falcon with a zf6hp26 and it drives well except for the slightest shudder at approximately 1000-1500 rpm (lockup). What could be the course? Transmission or torque converter? I’m hoping you know of a common issue. Many thanks mate. 👍🏼👍🏼
Does it feel like your going over a rough road or maybe railroad tracks?
@@GaryFerraro Garry, I have a similar issue with the zf6hp26 in my l/rover. Feels like small corrugations on the road. Thanks for the videos. Regards.
I was curious which manufacture you selected for the trunnion bearing you sourced.
Is KOKO or Sonnax preferred…?
Do you know who manufactures for Ford as an OEM supplier?
Koyo or Sonnax is fine
Just got finished tearing my transmission apart and it didn't look to bad inside but the only problems I saw was the OD band was completely worn down I have no idea how it even had overdrive and the clutch pack inside the reverse drum (I think thats what its called its what you picked up at 20:07 ?) were burned up pretty good. What would cause this? Was good on fluid level did this have something to do with the OD band being burned up?
I know there are a lot of variables, but I was wondering how long could one of these transmissions could last before you would recommend a rebuild? I have a F150 4.6l with 250K on the clock. Mostly daily driver with light weekend towing and only a handful of really heavy towing (40 hp tractor). Serviced regularly. Currently no issues with transmission. Do I do a preventative rebuild or wait for an issue? Thanks
I put 318k on mine before it started slipping; the OD servo pin bore was heavily worn, allowing loss of forward clutch pressure; I would run yours until their is a problem
You should drop the valve body and rebuild it by installing new sonnax valves and end plugs along with installing the sonnax overdrive pin kit.
Don't do anything until start slipping . Just do a regular service, change the filter(very important) and add a high quality fluid.
Pedro Hernandez thanks. That’s what I’m starting to feel. Not looking to create new problems by pulling it. Just wanted to prevent some internal failures before then. But if slippage likely failure, I’m gonna wait.
I see this failure a lot on the econoline vans, I think I read a Atra bulletin to shorten yoke on the driveshaft some, because the claim it’s binding when van is loaded with weight putting too much load on the rear shaft pushing everything forward braking the clip
Thanks for the tip, going to see what i can find
At 37:12 you place what I think is the very first bearing. However, it could be a washer. If it is the first bearing, which part goes towards the back and which part goes towards the front? Or can this bearing be placed universal?
The bearing part faces up and the "cup" part fits on the case, can only go one way
I really enjoy Gary's vids and how clean & organized he is. From what I'm learning, maybe it's best to tear the trans down THEN start ordering parts after an inspection. Seems there are several rebuild "kits" and vendors for different areas of the trans. There are several shift improvement kits out there....is this something that is really needed for a daily driver and dependability? Any ideas how a DIY guy could tear one apart and not have the fluid everywhere...kiddie pool?
drain what you can into a pan or bucket or if you have a bench cut a hole and scope the fluid there, if your going to pull the trans, drop the pan first, if you also drop the valvebody, the converter will drain. I always order the basics, Banner kit and my bushings, i know i'm going to need those then after teardown i order the rest
Where do you get these extra parts of ones are no good.
Decent video, but, this is a 4R75W not a 4R70W. The 75 has two speed sensors, the 70 only has the one near the back of the main housing, and I don’t mean the vss sensor on the tail-housing.
Correct, i call them all 4R70W, overhaulkits are all the same
Gary, how long will this rebuild last? Is this as good as a new 4r70w from the Ford assembly line?
Sure is, should last at least 100K
@@GaryFerraro thanks!!
Thanks for the video,I just need to change guts from one case to another.
Great 👍job
Is the test plate a tool you made? If not who's the supplier and part number, thanks in advance.
That is a tool, will get the number for you
Yes!!!! Thanks Gary
Thank you
Wow thank you for the video
Thanks for watching
35:29. The ring gear, The square teeth on the outside, those are for the parking pawl only? I found one with a corner broken off, was told it can be re used. Do you agree with that at all?
What year is the trans or the car it's going in
I really like the air gun you use to air check the clutches, can you get it on amazon?
I did get that on Amazon, i think it called the Capri air blow gun, I love it
@@GaryFerraro did it come with the tip you use to air check?
Hello! Just got my 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (with a 4 speed automatic transmission) rebuilt. Is there a certain amount of time that I have to break it in and drive it lightly until I can floor it? Your response is much appreciated!
I would say no. Really is no break in period
@@GaryFerraro Wow, thanks! I guess I will take a spirited drive now!!
@@GaryFerraro Another quick question, can I expect a few shudders at low rpms when accelerating slowly from a slop that im experiencing now to go away after driving it some more? Thank you
@@mod3rnwarrior34 Probably not, are you sure it is a trans problem
@@GaryFerraro Im not sure, its been driving no problem it just has a very mild slight vibration when slowly accelerating from a dead stop and a weird but still mild hiccup when shifting from 1st into second. I mean it is a newly rebuilt transmission and I haven’t even put 100 miles on it yet. So I just am confused as to what it even is.
that transmission is the same as that of Ford crown victoria mod 1999 it would help me a lot to know why my transmission fails and I would like to try to repair it myself I am from Mexico and I just saw your video
Trans is similar yes, what is the problem with yours
Don't you think you should show all the rings installation and clutch?
That was just assembly, will do a full rebuild video and show all that
excelente trabalho
Thank you
What mean by the epc solenoid?
Khan Iftikhar pretty sure electronic pressure control solenoid
what happened is the shaft is too long and when its overloaded the drive shaft pushes on it and breaks the clip and bearings, cut the output shaft until the hole is gone and it wont hit and shove the shaft forward to break the clip
Correct
I am rebuilding my 4r70w, and I'm having trouble with the stator sealing rings, couldn't get them to snap together, so I used a hose clamp, and that broke them, got a new set and can't get them to snap together
for the direct drum(2 rings on the bottom)
@@GaryFerraro the pump stator, 2 large metal rings that snap together, the are for the reverse clutchs
@@sinistersilverado965 Yes, they can be a pain to hook together. I hold one side with a small pocket screwdriver, hold it against the stator and then try to push the other side to hook it up
@@GaryFerraro I bought the sealing rings from another supplier, and the rings snapped in no problem
Gary (or anyone else !): I have a 2004 F150, 4R75. My first rebuild (broken reverse band). It is soft rebuild only, all other components are in good condition and passed the inspection. The question is on the air tests. The direct drum only seems to pass the test if I have assembly lube on the output shaft seals , front and rear. If I apply air to the supply port on the valve body with components dry, the drum does not respond. Is this normal? Thanks in advance !
Are you air checking the drum through the case?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks, yes. I have verified the new lip seals and shaft seals are installed correctly, no tears or pinches.I have pre-lubed them all generously. I noticed some slight scoring on the end case bore where the output shaft exists. I have installed new steel sealing rings provided in the rebuild kit. Just wondering if there could be a sealing issue there and air escaping. Is some air leak acceptable, since the ATF is much thicker ? Can I buy slightly larger shaft seals and lightly clean up the case output bore? Thanks again for your time.
@@homerdodd4264 May not be solid. did the back of the case have ring grooves?
@@GaryFerraro Yes, only one very small surface gouge, barely catches my fingernail. Covers about a 45-60 degree span area and only on the bottom. Can they be lightly sanded out with emery or wet or dry, and then plenty of lube during assembly? Will the fluid itself aid in sealing ? Thanks again.
Hey Gary...I saw your recent video...your mom's backdrop...
But, all I think now is "Turkish prison"...placed right next to Bada Bing (no music today).....
I have a 201 mustang with a AODE4R70W trans missiopn when you but it in drive it woulded go drive right away it toke about 3 seconds for it go ion drive now it the rpms high befor it slams in drive and takes off it shifs good thu all the utill you come to a stop and it kicks out of drive .
solenoid reg valve may be stuck in the valvebody
Good videos. Where did you get the output shaft snap ring?
My supplier sells it
@@GaryFerraro do know that parts number?
@@fabioernesto5041 I purchase parts from Transtar. Transtar's part number is U76894. I don't know ford's part number
Thank you
Whats the blue stuff
Transgel, Grease that i use to assemble the units, once hot the grease melts, Good stuff
Cuánto aceite llega la caja de fortaleza año 99
Cómo armar la transmisión de un Ford Mustang 1990
Translation
Get to the point first 8min saying waiting for the bearing lol let's go pass the page..
When u look away can't hear what your saying.
sorry about that.
I watched for over a minute and he still hadn't started the content he's just standing there talking.
Sorry, I'm out.
No Problem
I can never seem to get those butt cut and metal rings to air check that well.
Do you mean they sound like they are leaking?
@@GaryFerraro yeah, i even put fluid into the hole on the pump, it will apply but always seems to have a pretty strong hiss
@@anterpants If you release the air does it sound like it blowing back through the apply hole? Are you using a rubber tip to air check?