Gary, sounds like my fluid was just low. The transmission has slipped on take-off one time a few days ago since adding a little over 1/2 quart 3 weeks ago. This was a definite improvement. At that point, I checked the level in neutral after a 20 minute drive and the fluid level was in the middle of the hot mark. I added a little more fluid and am waiting to see if that cures it 100%. I didn't realize that fluid level was so critical on these transmissions. It was never below the safe area on the dipstick. I appreciate possibly the $5 fix, and your obvious expert knowledge and understanding of the subject.
Just did an overhaul on the 2004 Crown Vic. Wish I had found this video before, but it seems I got it right anyway. Right down to the Tough Plate. Thanks Gary!!
Thanks Gary! Like the way you describe what happens if something fails or sticks and what symptoms it causes in the transmission. I have worked on many Ford transmissions because of that stupid OD cir clip clogging the 3-4 galley. You have a new (old) subscriber.
Thank you. I've been looking for two days for that info. I took my valvebody off. Cleaned everything up. That's when I discovered those two bolts. I wasn't sure enough about their location to reinstall the valve body. Have a good one. Got to get to work.
Gracias maestro Gary excelente trabajo llevo años trabajando y de usted eh aprendido mucho siga así, felicidades y bendiciones gracias por compartir sus conocimientos...👋
Also, this cap for the 2-3 accumulator. Wouldn't adding this cap affect travel space on the accumulator? Maybe that's not an issue....just something I thought of.
Hi, Gary! First of all thanks for so good and helpful video! I have a problem with 4r75e transmission. I bought a 2007 F150 recently and it has no 4th gear. No fault code after driving 15 miles. I dropped the pan oil was very brown and was smelling burned. Also there was a small chops. The servo drive snap ring was in place and not damaged. Then I’ve checked valve body. There was nothing wrong all the valves was moving easy. I bought another transmission and before to put it in the car I inspected the new valve body. It was near perfect condition as well as transmission parts which I could observe. So I replaced transmission and I’ve got same exact issue no 4th gear. Everything looks and feels the same. 1st gear up to 2000rpm then shifts to 2nd drops rpm and after reaching 1800-2000rpm shifts to 3rd without dropping rpm then stays in 3rd about couple seconds and then shifts to 4th and revs rpm like on neutral. With OD off runs on 3rd gear. Can go 50mph with 2500rpm. Fluid temp 65-69C. So it drives and feels the same as old one. On my 2005 expedition transmission shifts different. 1st up to 2000 then shifts to 2nd and drop rpm then after 2000rpm shifts to 3rd and drop rpm then after 2000rpm shifts to 4th and drop rpm then at about 45mph and 2000rpm overdrive engages and it drop rpm again to about 1200rpm. Can it be a wiring or a PCM problem or it’s that’s another bad transmission. If it’s electric problem why I don’t get fault code? What kind of tests I can do to find out what’s wrong. I can perform pressure test but I don’t know which port to test and what kind of readings I should see. Any advice will be highly appreciated. Thank you a lot!
Gary Ferraro yes and I just did a test drive. Here is the video that shows live data ruclips.net/video/GsSHupgLB_4/видео.html and that one ruclips.net/video/Bh-PwPK5-lg/видео.html shows gear command test. In both cases there is no rpm drop after 3rd gear was engaged and neutral condition after shifting to 4th gear. That video shows old transmission and valve body ruclips.net/video/T4Tullj4n_k/видео.html Fluid looks bad and this is after 5qt fluid change. 2-3 accumulator plate doesn’t holds inside of housing. Plate has big dent but no cracks.
Thank you Gary. This video gave me the exact info I needed to know that my trans problem is having. Neutral effect on take off. Solenoid regulator valve.
It is a 2010 xl model with the 4.6. Plate shows transmission Q or the 475 4 speed. As I mentioned I purchased this truck new it has only 34k miles and when I initially drained the pan the pan was not dirty at all. But the e-clip had broken and part of it fell in the valve body not letting it shift into 4th. Again Thanks
Excellent video, I have a 1997 5.0 Explorer with a 4R70W. It shifted fine unit I went and played all weekend in the sand, 4k cookies and all. Now as soon as you let off the throttle when it is up to operating temp it downshifts to 3rd harshly at any speed from 4th. Cold the thing shifts and operates like a champ. Also when its operating temp if I leave OD off when in 3rd it will jerk harshly like its grabbing the OD band and then lets go and will stay in 3rd with no other issues, until it downshifts and goes back into 3rd. If OD is on it shifts to 4th normally and doesn't act up until I let off of the throttle. I dropped the pan and it was clean, I was expecting to find debris from the torque converter due to my high rpm playing. I was wondering if you have seen this, Thanks for any advice.
It also slips into neutral if taking a hard corner at 25-30 mph. It will not engage into drive again until I either slow down to 15mph or manually shift to 2nd. It also is slow to engage drive (5-7) seconds from park. Reverse works immediately without issue every time. Thanks Again.
Had similar issue with the trans filter falling into the pan. Felt like it was slipping on inclines or hard right turns. I made a sheetmetal strap secured under 2 valve body bolts to hold the filter from falling off. Works fine now.
I have an important question?. I have a fully rebuilt valve body and transmission when you put it in drive. Second gear is the only gear that slips until it hits third. But if you manually shift it it works fine. What can cause that? Please let me know
Gary, not sure if you'll see this. I've got the OD into neutral issue, but also it will not engage drive until I've revved it to about 3K rpms. I've pulled the valve body for a rebuild, plus changing sensors. The OD servo snap rings are fine. Everything looks good and normal. Just wondering if the sensors, and/or valves could cause that not late RPMs to engage drive problem? With OD off, it shifts great and drives fine, even at highway speeds.
What could cause a temporary neutral position when engaging reverse? Slowly engages reverse. Worse when transmission is hot compared to when it is cold. 4r75w 2008
Great video Gary. Question: I have a 05 5.4 with 4R75E. I have lost drive and OD. Doesn't shift out of 2nd when in drive with OD switched off. Let off the gas pedal and the tach free falls to 1k. I pulled the pan and valve body. No metal in the pan. Fluid was good. Snap rings and clips seem to be intact. I expected to find a broken clip and blockage. Could shifting solenoids cause this. No codes were thrown.
Great video Gary. The 4R70W in my 2000 expedition shifts beautifully under normal driving conditions. At highway speeds while in OD, however, if I try to pass with wide open throttle the transmission flares badly, (i guess when downshifting to 3rd). Does that sound like a problem with the pressure regulator valve or solenoid regulator valve?
Yes Gary, it's okay if not wide open throttle. if i go wide open the rpms jump to around 4500 and it feels like its in neutral for about 2 seconds then it shifts hard. Thanks
have a 97 f150, when coming to a stop it acts like someone taking to long to push in the clutch, and occasionally it will seam as tho it needs to be in a lower gear while accelerating. already tried the solenoids
Awesome video... once again! What are you using to flat sand the surfaces? Is it just sand paper on a wooden block? If so, what grit sand paper do you use? Thanks a million for these videos.
Great video. I have an 06 grand marquis that after long drives it starts shifting hard sometimes from 1-2. I don't get any codes. It's erratic sometimes it will shift fine other times it will shift hard. All other gears shift fine. I'm getting ready to drop the VB soon. Any thoughts?
Hello, One problem could be a worn pressure regulator valve or bore, when worn can cause a harsh1-2 shift. Also in the upper right hand corner is the 1-2 accumulator(easy to come out a bit of a pain to put back in. Gary
Hey Gary I have my transmission all completely disassembled I was wondering what do I clean the valve body with ? Brake clean someone told me diesel whats your input on that ? And after cleaning how do I dry it of if using diesel air dry?
Gary great vid. Have you ever seen a solenoid reg valve stuck that caused delay slip engagement only from initial park to drive or reverse to drive..... then once its left in drive no more issue??
Great video!! I have a 97 Ford f150 4x4 lariat with a 4r70w, I have reverse which works great but I have to accelerate to shift into first gear after that all gears shift with no problem but when I go to a stop it does it again or if I take it out of drive. Thanks Gary
Hey man love the videos, I have a 96 f150 2wd 4r70w and it starts off in 2nd and never shifts to 3rd or od.. I can manually pull it to first and first is good shift ton2nd n 2nd is good shift to drive and it just stays in second gear. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Gary, thanks for the informative video. I have this 4R70W in my 2001 F150. I have this exact neutral condition that occurs on take-off and I am planning to remove the valve body to check and replace everything you recommend. I obviously don't own this hone or bore tool for the solenoid regulator valve. This tool is very expensive! For a guy like me, what do you recommend? Replace the valve body? I don't want the truck to be down for more than a day, so I want to head in the right direction before buying the parts.
+Gary Ferraro this problem occurs intermittently. If I stay in the accelerator it hits the gear hard like a neutral drop. Fluid level is full and doesn't smell burnt. Hard acceleration or normal does not make a difference, and fluid/vehicle temperature doesn't matter. I will say that I cannot trace back where the fluid was ever changed and it has 160k. I would estimate this neutral like condition to occur 5-10% of the time. I feel it happen, I just let off the gas so it doesn't cause damage, then try again and it will grab. 0-5mph is the speeds where it will slip, Initial accelerate from a stop or initial accelerate after making a slow speed turn
+Gary Ferraro no codes present on my code reader, although I have a generic one. I am more experienced on Chevys. Do I need a special code reader to read transmission codes on a ford or would tranny codes show up on a regular $100 scanner that you can buy from the parts store?
Hello, Its very possible the solenoid reg valve is stuck, but accelerating after a turn could be a low fluid condition, this is what i would like for you to do first, when the car is stone cold(sit overnite) pull the stick out (dont start the car) and make sure its 2 1/2 inches above the full mark, if it is then its full.
I Rebuilt My 4r70w and when i take to the road test 1er to 2dn have dealy. when I stop in the trafic ligh and star pushen gas , take like 3 seconds to be moving.
Hello Gary, I appreciate your videos. Very helpful. I am wondering if you will give me some advice or direction...I recently purchased a 02' f150 which I drove for a couple of days with no indication of any transmission issues. I started up and put into gear... NOTHING. I heard no clanging or the like when parking and shutdown. When it is put into drive, it slows the engine slightly. With application of gas, it's like neutral. I checked the fluid level and discovered that it was way over filled. Could you please give me some direction or advice as to how to figure it out. Thanks
Hello, You actually answered my question before i asked you. My question was, is the fluis level correct or overfull. Being the fact that the fluid is overfull, your transmission pump went bad(the pump is not sucking the fluid into the converter). Not much can be done other than pulling the trans out. Gary
Great video. Can you tell me why the flow from tranny to a cooler is so weak? I have the same tranny on my e350 and I performed a flow test directly from tranny to an empty bottle. So I got one quart in 2 minutes which is bad sign. But it shifts like it should and there is no codes or issues except high working temp. Thanks.
If the trans is heating up, there is a restriction somewhere. Do you have an air compressor? If so disconnect the cooler lines and blow through them, see if there is any back pressure, may have restriction in radiator
@@GaryFerraro Hi ! Everything is absolutely clean! Weak flow is right from the tranny. If you disconnect the hose from the outlet right on the tranny, you will see how lazy is the flow=)
Hello Mr. Ferraro. I have a 2000 Merc Mountaineer 5.0 4r70w with code p0741. Shifts fine 1-2 but 2-3 goes nuetral. OD light flashes when driving and its supposed to 2-3 shift a few times and fails. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue would be much appreciated. Thank you for taking time to make these great informative videos.
Great video. Got me to thinking I may have a valve body problem vice a internal transmission problem. Maybe you could give me a hint of the best approach to determining the correct path to take. I was driving my 2004 F150 4X4, with a 4R70W trans, at about 60mph, I went to kick it down to accelerate and the transmission seemed to slip. This raised my concerns as I had just completed a 1500 mile trip. Upon checking the fluid level, found it to be approximately 1.5 quarts low, added the needed fluid. However, it seemed sluggish at take off. Later that evening, after the truck had set and the weather had gotten cold, it didn't want to move. There didn't seem to be any lock up. I was able to limp the truck home, got a CEL and trans error. Went out today, pulled the codes: P0506 and P0720. Noticed that I seemed to have reverse, but very little torque in forward gear. Upon putting truck in drive, the CEL ignited and got trans error again. Decided to drop pan to see if there was filings or anything in pan. Fully expecting to find a bunch of stuff in old and pan, was surprised to find the pan and oil relatively clean. Kind of at a point of not knowing where to from here. Feeling I may have missed some tests I should have done prior to getting this far, but don't want to put it all back together, only to tear it down again for no good reason. Is there anything I should look for while I have the pan off? Would a stuck solenoid or pressure lose within the throttle body cause this issue? Thanks in advance. Going out to make some "uneducated" checks. :)
An added note here: I just remembered, while adding fluid I noticed that when I went from "R" to "D" to ensure the torque converter was full of oil and engaging; it would lockup solid in "R" while "D" didn't to the same. I could hear the normal click of slack being taken up, when going into "R", but not "D".
Harold, if you have good reverse but no forward or very little forward, there is an issue with the forward. Either the drum is cracked or the clutches are worn and possible the seal for the forward piston is torn. If you have good reverse but bad forward, it cant be a pump, filter or pressure regulator problem. What happened to your trans is fairly common, i see alot of that. Gary
Thanks Gary. I started chasing the P0720 code, Output Speed Sensor. Which on this model is located in the pumpkin of the axle. Believing that maybe it was causing the trans to go into limp mode, which may account for the sluggish forward. I am having a hard time convincing myself that it is a trans problem, without there being more debris in the pan. Going to put it all back together, tomorrow, and replace the OSS. If that works, it will be better than replacing the trans. Is there a good way to prove it is a trans problem and not a sensor issue? I have ohmed out the shift and TC solenoids and rigid wiring harness; they all checked good. Trying to find a definitive answer, without just replacing parts to replace parts. Thanks again.
Harold, If your working with a 4R70W trans, the output speed sensor is on the left side of the trans in the rear of the case. The sensor in the diff may be the rear ABS sensor. Look left side behind the linkage.
Yes, you are correct; no surprise there. I checked the sensor and it read 415 ohms. Wires going to the PCM checked good, .5 ohms each. They are not shorted together. So, again..... where to now. Either the code was bad, PCM bad, or output shaft not turning correctly. Going back together with it all and see if the same code and symptoms return. May have to take it to a shop with the cool tools to have it tested. Any suggestions, would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help so far.
I got an 1998 Ford 4R75W and I noticed it's starting to hesitate from 3rd to 4th at about 35 mph then once it's above 35 it stays in overdrive. I'm under the impression the Overdrive Servo pin is starting to wear out. Kind like it's up shifting then back down after it warms up. You think the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit would fit it. As I know you can use an old shift roller to lock the band in place while you change it in the vehicle. Then install a Spiral ring to make sure the dreaded snap ring doesn't mess the transmission core up... And any other things to change while in there. Thank You
Hello, usually when that pin bore wears, after driving it may neutralize in 4th, Question, did you happen to look at a scanner to make sure its not a lock-up issue? If it is in fact a shift to 4th then you would have to look at the band(direct clutch comes on in 3rd and stays on for 4th) I would probably change out the piston and use the sonnax pin(the one with the o-ring. I honestly never used a sure cure on a 4R70W yet.
Hello Mr. Ferraro, Jorge here again. I'm personally cleaning the valve body valve by valve. I did run into a head scratcher and called it a day. On many online illustrations there is one valve that is numbered, (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16). 13 and 16 are lock clips. I seem to have forgotten where # 13 goes. I'm not sure if if goes shoved on top of the spring. Or if is is shoved in between # 12 and # 14? Thank you for your videos and thank you for responding.
I does not move in manual low either. I'm sure the transmission is 4R75W. One more thing, I misspoke about the year...it's a 2000. Not much different, but it may help with diagnosis Doc Gary.
ok, so something with the foward drum, if this happened all of a sudden, possible something broke or stripped or the clutch pack is worndown or torn lip seal. Its a 4R70w if it has 14 pan bolts
+Gary Ferraro yeah, I was worried it was something inside it. I don't know if this narrows it down a bit...I let it sit in drive for a few minutes and it did engage once an pull forward with no slipping. I then put it in reverse and back in drive and then nothing again. What a bummer.
May narrow it down just to the foward clutch drum, common for the clutches to wear out and have too much clearance in the clutch pack, as a result tearing the lip seal.
+Gary Ferraro , thanks. I'm not looking forward to pulling it out, but I now know what it is. I have learned that if I ever purchase another vehicle... check all fluid levels! they can tell you a lot. Thanks again Gary.
Hi Gary, I have a 2004 Crown Vic police interceptor with a 4R70W. It has 153200 miles. It shifts fine and has only one problem. When the engine and trans are hot there is a 3-4 second engagement delay when shifting into drive from neutral or reverse. When it finally shifts into drive (after the delay), it engages fine with no slipping. So I think the forward clutch is OK. Once in drive, it shifts fine through all gears. There is never any delay shifting into reverse. It seems like something is sticking in the valve body. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Could be the solenoid regulator valve located next to the manual valve. If this valve sticks or drags in the bore it will cause the trans to neutralize on takeoff then be ok.
Hello Gary, great video. I'm hoping you could give me some advise. I pulled and rebuilt my 5.4 2002 f150 engine. Now, after I put the engine back in, my transmission only goes forward when shifted in neutral and reverse and all drives. It did go in reverse a couple times as I backed it out of the shop, but now no reverse. I checked my linkage and seems good. I didn't adjust anything while I did the engine. The fluid level was good. I am going to pull out the valve body and repeat what I watched in your video. Would a valve being stuck cause this? The transmission did run fine before the overhaul. Thank you for your time. Dallas.
Dallas, Make sure that the manual valve is hooked up correctly, When it did reverse was it good reverse or not? Do you remember how many checkballs you put in the valvebody?
I haven't overhauled the valve body yet. After I got my engine in and running, my parking brake wouldn't release easily. So I backed up a few feet and drove forward while trying to pop the parking brake free. After two times I only had forward in all positions. I manually shifted the tranny and the same result. This is my first time getting into a transmission, though I do have a good amount of mechanical background.
I left the transmission in and didn't mess with it. When troubleshooting I detached the linkage from the transmission and manually shifted while I had someone inside the running truck with the brake on. Each shift I made the truck wanted to go forward.
Ok, so we know theres an issue inside the unit, i would drop the pan, make sure the manual valve is ok and in place, if it is then possible your foward clutchs are locked together.
HI Gary. My nephew is having trouble with his 2001 F-150 not shifting past 2nd. He says he disconnects the battery, lets it sit for awhile and reconnects it. The truck then shifts fine. He was thinking one of the selenoids.
Could have an issue with the 2-3 accumulator or an issue with the drum, also could be a solenoid, but havent seen that much. Does anyone have a scanner that shows live data, i would like to see if 3rd gear is being commanded.
Gary , how can I build this trans to be heavy duty ? I use it to haul my tools and 5th wheel all over the west coast and hit mountains regularly . I have the trans on its own radiator and exterior filter as well as a pan with drain plug to change fluid every 25k miles . I have about 450 hp engine in the truck and have had the trans rebuilt twice . how ever i was not there when done and didnt see what was done . so now that i have the time and chance to do it I am looking to do it myself that way i know what is in it . What would be best in this situation as far as materials , red alto friction ? or is something better out there to use ?
I have one of these transmissions in my 98 F150. It works totally fine but I notice under very hard acceleration I hear a slight bushing noise in first gear only. Which bushing would only make a noise in first gear?
Hi Garry, thank for your video, I have rebuilt my 4R75e and also put a sonax valve kit in the body valve but now when I put it in drive it’s neutral but I can take off in low 1rst then put it on drive and roll however it also goes to neutral on the 3rd gear and go from the 2nd to 4th After listening to your video I think the solenoid pressure regulator valve could be the problem for the neutral takeoff. Do you think I’m right in my diagnosis? I also want to tell you that when I shift it from park to drive the pressure to the foward clutch raise up over 100 psi then I ear a clic then the pressure drop right away. I hope you can help me! Thank you
usually when it will not move in drive buit will in low range is a bad low sprag(located in the planetary) this is doing some strange stuff, also with out 3rd there usually is no 4th. Are all the checkballs in the correct spots? If you race up the car in drive will it jump into gear? How many quarts of fluid did you add?
Gary Ferraro I was also suspecting the sprag so I had all disassembled the transmission a second time after this issu but didn’t see any wrong with the sprag or any mechanical part to my eye The check ball are to there right spot and it did not jump in gear even on full throttle and I put around 10 or more liter of fluid
Gary Ferraro no I didn’t change the sprag, may be I should try to replace it but I think that I also have a valve body issue because of the forward clutch raise and drop of pressure when I shift it in drive...
I counted 9 valves on the 4r70w, in an overhaul, as I'm doing now, do all of them have to be replaced? They all have spring action. Although minimal spring action is noted
Ok I got under the truck and there's no continuity between pins three and eight which seem to be the TCC also obviously no resistance I didn't replace the internal wiring harness when I rebuilt the transmission so I'm thinking it's damaged I'm going to drop the pan check the resistance on the TCC itself and replace the harness
this does not sound like a wiring problem, seems like the converter cannot fully lock-up due to some leak in the circuit. Did it have this code before?
is the 3rd gear issue you mentioned here gradual or instant? I was driving down the road and all of the sudden 3rd gear stopped working. It's like it slips into neutral. 2007 ford f150 4r75e
Hi Gary I rebuilt my 4r70w and everything shifts great but no overdrive I get p1740 and p0741 I put all new solenoids on when I rebuilt it it’s a 2000 f150 5.4
What happens when it shifts to 4th, does it seem like it goes into neutral or just doesnt shift past 3rd? the P0741 and P1740 are converter codes, do you have a scanner that shows live data? Im asking about live data because i would like to know rpm slip when the converter locks up and im also wondering if 4th is being commanded
Gary Ferraro its seems to shift fine into 4th but when I’m running at 55mph it throws that code. I’m not sure about the live data I’m using an app obdfusion and a wifi reader I’ll have to check this evening I’d hate to drop the pan and waste all that oil could it be a Servo or accumulator issue
If its throwing the code at 55mph, this is when lock-up is on,when the torque converter can no longer fully lock-up it will produce this code. Its not dropping out of 4th correct? the codes that you are getting are for converter clutch, this could be a pump problem, converter problem, bushing problem. valvebody issue.
What lock-up is, is when the converter is locked to engine rotation, this cuts down on heat,sometimes lock-up will come after 3rd, but it doesnt sound like you have a 4th gear problem, sounds like you have a converter problem
Hi Gary. I am from Bulgaria and just bought 1996 Lincoln Mark 8 LSC with transmission problem. When downshift engine is struggling and sometimes from 2-1 dies. Also when i put the shifter in position 2 engine dies right away. Can you help me with any ideas. Oil is fine and i already changed shift solenoid and 1-2 accumulator . Hope to give me any advice. Thanks
Hi Gary. Thanks a lot for the quick reply. When the car accelerates, the shifting is more or less normal. But when I start to slow down and the box shifts from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1 the engine loads and even shuts off. Also, when I put the lever in position 2, the engine dies immediately. There is no problem in the other positions
Hey Gary I just built one of this and installed a shift kit. She ran beautiful a lot of power and smooth shift. Gave it back to customer now engine shuts of as soon as transmission is put into drive or reverse. Any ideas before I pull whole unit.. thanks a lot
Something is going on with torque converter, its not releasing, you may want to start with checking the valvebody, how many check balls did you install?
Gary Ferraro I put the 8. The van drives fine if I give it has b4 it shuts off shift threw all the gears. But get to a stop and I can feel it's overworking the engine, just like when you use a scanner to command lockup on.. unfortunately this model year give me no diagnostic function in the scanner. Any ideas I also installed a shift kit. Can something there be causing this.. can the tc solenoid be stuck
Gary Ferraro ok so this is getting crazy. The van drives fine after driving it for about 5 mins. I can come to a complete stop no problem switch through gears prndl no problem. Only happens when tranny is cold. Can it be a faulty tcc solenoid????
Alexis Ramirez I would say either that or a valve is hanging up in the valvebody. If the solenoid doesn't fix the problem you may have to clean the valvebody and put it in the freezer for a couple of hours and see if a valve is stuck or dragging in the bore
Do I remove that “sombrero” if I installed the sonnax valve body retainer plate out of my zip kit? With the sombrero installed and that plate I have to push the valve body down against the spring a few mm and wondering if it will make the 2-3 shift firm? Thanks
Yes. the trans works fine otherwise. It's a 4WD version(#53-1C on '98-'00 base)that was built by Hughes. So as you can imagine its getting a bit annoying having to use the brakes in steep situatons.
@@GaryFerraro Yes Thanks Gary, already contacted them. Like Hughes..no response. I did find this video ruclips.net/video/KGcNC7lzvgM/видео.html I went through step by step and it appears mine(makes sense as it was built about 7 years ago and the video is 6 years old) has all these mods shown with the exception of one hole in Boost Valve area(separator plate side). The later version of the same AODE-HD2 kit have holes drilled in the separator plate which mine doesn't appear to have....I measured them and they haven't been drilled out.
Hi Gary. I need help with my 2003 Mustang GT 4R70W issue that has just started. The car has 160K, and has two flushes by previous owner (60K, and 110K) The car began to slip into neutral at stoplights last week. Lots of stop and go in my area. It is slow to go into drive when shifted to park. RPMs usually get it to engage. I removed the pan, changed filter, and refilled with Mercon V. The pan had no metal debris, but had never been dropped. It still had the yellow factory fill plug from dipstick. The symptoms are hit or miss. I really need to avoid a rebuild in this situation. No dash lights of any kind are illuminated. Any advice would help. Thank You in advance.
Hi Gary. I checked the fluid. It shows full, and slightly overfilled at times. Someone mentioned the filter I just installed could have slipped off. There was some of the gray paste like film in the pan when I dropped it. No metal parts.
I got a problem with my trans. Shifts fine in 1-2-3 but shifting from 3-4 has a hard shift. Rides and speed up just fine but have that hard upshift. No hard down shifting ( that i can feel at least ) . what do you think could be the problem
What are the symptoms of a worn out pressure regulator boost valve? i have a 2005 crown victoria p71 4r70w and it slips and sometimes shudders in reverse under medium throttle or slight uphill. fluid was lightly burnt and filter was changed with no effect. i'm not sure if it could be a leaking valve, leaking reverse servo, or worst case burnt clutches. any thoughts before i take it apart again? thanks for the informative video!
if your on a flat, and you place it in reverse it seems to go in and function normal no delayed engagement. it wont slip until you give it about 10% throttle, if its on any sort of incline where you have to throttle it will slip very badly. i dont think it would reverse up a steep hill at all. it shuddered yesterday in a flat parking lot with mild slippage and that was the first time it has done that. its the same warm or cold
ok, i went for a drive and what i found is today after putting about 80 miles on 5 new quarts of merconV and filter change, the reverse goes into gear no delay and you can feel it engage but the car almost wont move unless you give it about 1800 + rpms then it starts to move slowly, while slipping and chatters or shudders very badly but moves. if you rev the car to 3000rpm and let off and rev again it will move in reverse faster and faster but chattering is still there. i also hear a sound like a bird chirping while reversing under load or accelerating foreward under load. when shifted to 1st at 35mph it takes about 6 seconds before it actually does anything, it does engine brake the car like it should normally and feels very firm no slippage.
Gary I was wondering if my valve body has begun to fail i just had a trans rebuild done and my truck slips out of gear when taking off from a stop light then slams back into gear I'm worried about causing damage to the internals any ideas? thanks also no trans related codes
Is there a kit with these parts you replace? I've found shift improvement kits with valves and springs and the like, but none of the photos show the balls and the little filter you replaced.
Hello, quick question. 2006 f150 2wd 4.6 start truck put in drive takes off fine. Then as it shifts to 2nd it like its in neutral. Turn off overdrive and it shifts through all the gears fine. Start truck turn off overdrive and it drives fine. I was told I probably had a broke split ring in the valve body. I removed the valve body and all the rings were intact. I had no metal chips in the fluid. The fluid actually looked good. What could cause this problem?
Those are engine codes, strange issue not sure why it does that, not sure why the shift is no good when the overdrive is on. Are you sure it's the 1-2 shift? what if you pull the lever down to manual one and upshift it manually
What else could it be? 2003 F150. I have the 3-4 neutral condition. Firstly I can't check codes at this time. The C clip is fine. The E clip is fine. The valve moves freely. The fluid is about the worst I have seen for color and grime. 1-2, and 2-3 are solid and sure. O/D switched off keeps it from happening. 198k miles.
Gary Ferraro has reverse..rebuilt it first time burnt direct clutches and reverse band then i only had second gear then changed shift seloniod it felt like it was shifting but quickly lost drive to near nothing all new clutches and electronics but no material in pan Two certified guys said valve body problem, havent seen any flaws yet all valves move freely all balls there no tears in new gaskets, maybe not torqued up properly? Warped?
Valvebody wise, double check the 3-4 shift valve, the foward clutch gets released in 4th and if that shift valve is hanging up, it could prevent the application of the foward clutch, if that is good, then there is an issue with the foward clutch itself. If you have good reverse, this tells me that the pump, pressure regulator valve and filter are ok.
really found no need to, i put the upgraded PR valve in and send a tool through the solenoid reg valve to Debur the bore and i'm good to go, never had a problem
Gary Ferraro, (Or Anyone else who can help also?) I'm hoping you can help me with my 1998 Ford Explorer 5L AWD that has the 4r70w? I bought it a couple years back and had no problems with the transmission for the first year, in-fact, I would pull 2 quarts of fluid out the pipe and refill with 2 fresh Merc V's every 3 months. About 1 year ago I started getting vibrational semi-hard shifting into 4 gear (overdrive) -- a friend told me to try Lucas transmission fix, so I did and it helped for a few months and gradually came back -- now it seems to be migrating into 3rd gear especially if I'm going really easy on the gas during shifting -- I was going to just pull the pan and change the filter and pan fluid and hope for the best? Should I do what you did here or try my thing first? The truck has 200k on it but, the 302 gt is still super strong -- I love this truck ! It's an occasional problem shift -- it doesn't do it every-time.
Sounds like you have a converter chatter. If caught in time changing the transmission fluid and filter may fix it, if not a new converter may have to be installed. when you say vibration, does it feel like your going over rough road or maybe railroad tracks?
@@GaryFerraro, Actually, thanks Gary, after a bunch of research until 3am lastnight, I determined it had to be what you just said, "converter chatter" so, I went to autozone bought a filter and walmart for fluid and went for it this afternoon -- I just finished cleaning up and decided to check to see if you responded -- I added some more Lucas fix too as it is suppose to have some friction modifier in it that helps with converter clutching I guess. Anyways, it worked like a charm -- turns out, it was the first filter service on 200k as the plug was in the pan -- you hit the nail right on the head -- thanks for your prompt response bro !
@@GaryFerraro -- I have one last question for now if you don't mind, even though this remedied this: would you suggest anymore friction modifier like, "Dr. Tranny Instant shudder Fixx" -- it came up in my research last night and I thought I'd get your expert opinion on it? Keep in mind I added a bottle of Lucas fix with a gallon of fresh fluid with the new filter?
Hello Gary great stuff. Experienced the no 4th issue pulled valve body and removed part of e clip. Reinstalled and have 4th gear now but am kicking a p0755 solenoid b code. Replaced both solenoids but still wrench on dash and p0755 code. 2010 f-150 with only 34 k miles. Starts and goes in r fine but when in d starts off in 2nd gear not 1st. If you shift to low it goes into first. is this a valve body issue or could I have out one of the 8 balls in wrong place. Any help would be appreciated. Gary W
Thank You very much for replying. Yes I tried to clear the codes several times and when you restart the engine the code comes right back. I cleared it via the obd port as well as removing the negative battery cable. I also had to replace the air flow sensor but I tried the original one again with idle issues. You can hear the valve operating going from reverse to drive just no first gear and the code appears. The odd part is when I first road tested the truck everything seemed ok for 20 minutes or so then while going up a hill the trouble appeared. Still was able to drive home just no first gear. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Gary W
@@GaryFerraro hello it is a 2010 4.6 that has the 4r75 transmission code Q on door tag As I mentioned I purchased it new has 34k miles and when I drained fluid the pan was clean. Thanks for your help
@@garywilson3001 If it comes right back, it is electrical for sure, check the connection at the trans and check the external harness, sometimes they get burned on the exhaust , follow the harness up from the trans and see if you see anything
Mr. Garry very good video . I have 2008 mercury grand marquis and odometer so far 200526km shifting smooth .oil and filter was change earlier I noticed slipping only at high hell road and when I hard acceleration , but when I reduce the acceleration it go smoothly. any idea? plz I need your help .I tried to get the transmission model and number but I couldn't .thanks
I have problem in my 98 Town Car. When I fast accelerate i hear sound like slipping belt when transmission change gear 1-2. And i also have problem with change gear 2-3. When i fast accelerate transmission dont change gears from 2 to 3. Engine run to rev limit. When i press accelerator pedal at about 50% everything is ok. :/ I changed oil and it doesnt help.
Possible clutch squawk on the 1-2 shift. Common problem with the direct clutch burning out, direct is on in 3rd, a lot of jobs i get in the trans is doing what your is, can't do much about it other than pulling for an overhaul
hay you help with the 62te woundering if you mit can help with a 4r75 e just did a 4r70 and no problmes with but the 4r75 has on 3rd go in nurtal and slip out of first under load just needing a direction befor pulling it again
Can that 3-4 neutral condition be caused by a sticky valve, with no debris? I have one that quickly goes into a neutral condition then shifts into 4th from third and even more severe on down shift, it only does this during shifts, fully rebuilt, valves float good, no issues just replaced worn out thrust washers, 06 expedition
This sounds like your having a flared shift which means the timing is off, if its shifting then the valves are moving but there is a pressure loss in the trans
usually not a worn valve, this could be something with the o/d piston or the 2-3 accumulator, also make sure its not overfull, if the solenoids get flooded it will flare as well. Does it flare when the car is hot and cold?
Hot and cold, doesn't change, it is overfilled a little bit, i just had the vb out, it didnt do this before, i fixed a sticky pressure regulator valve and ended up with this, new OD piston, plate was ok, thanks
Got any ideas as to what would cause this transmission to feel jumpy when you let off the accelerator and have a slight slam when you get back on the accelerator?
@@GaryFerraro it's really noticeable at 45 - 55mph.. cant really feel it at any other speeds. No codes have popped up. I have a hard time telling of it may be ignition related.
My 01 f150 with the 4r70w doesn't engage in drive until I slightly rev it up then it stays in first until I shift the gear in park or neutral or when i come to a stop from highway speed but at idle if i rev to engage it will never fall out of gear, would a cleaner fix it?
@@GaryFerraro its looked it up you are right, I knew you'd be right i just didn't know what the valve looked like, could sea foam trans tune help it? Truck was sitting a year then this happened after driving it maybe 50 miles but was shifting into foward very slow when just getting it out of storage
Hi mr gary i have a 05 f150 lariat and when stating to go it shakes and it bearly goes but the shake is like something is holding it not like a misfire. I took valve body apart and found a servo clip broken. I replaced it but still doing the samething.i do have that dent in that plate, do you think that dent in the plate could make that happen? Thanks
I have a 1996 ford f150 with the 4r70w and im having an issue with downshifting. I have to put it to fge floor to downshift and even then it sometimes doesnt do it. When it does it feels like someone rear ends me. Ive checked wiring,oil levels, and have no codes for sensors so im leading more towards a mechanical issue and its a newer transmission on it i service it regularly. Any input would be appreciated thanks
Gary Ferraro upshift is fine and coming to a stop is great. The only clunks i get is when i go from park to reverse or drive and down shift from 4th to 3rd or 2nd when it happens on the rare occasion
I have a 04 f150 heritage with the 4r70w transmission, it will go in reverse when cold but after normal warm-up temperature, it won't, shifts normal in drive though, what would be causing this. Thanks
Sounds like a pressure loss, there are 2 elements that apply in reverse, the reverse input clutch and the low/reverse band. the low reverse band is applied in manual low, so if you have engine breaking in manual one then the band would be ok and the clutch is your problem, if no engine breaking problem with the band.
I changed the fluid and filter hoping this would help fix it, but to now avail. What you suggested would require a teardown of the transmission right. I'm thinking it could be the reverse clutch, most cases the band would be broken and letting it go in reverse at all, so maybe it's the clutch. Thank you for the information you provided, hopefully I can get this fixed soon.
I have almost 1/4 play up too down and side to side (wiggling) on the end of the output shaft from a 99 ford f150 transmission 4.6l (4r70w) what could be wrong? is it normal?
Ok, you will have play in that, the drive shaft will keep it center, it rides on a bushing in the extension housing. Sometimes when the trans fluid leaks from the rear seal its because the bushing is worn down. Gary
What causes 3rd Gear shudder on these? I have owned 2 Mark VIII's and 2 Grand Marquis and all of them have Shudder issues mainly with 3rd gear. The Grand Marquis being the worst . I bought the one with 52,000 miles and when cold it had terrible shudder , but only when cold. At times it acted like, felt like and sounded like you were going over railroad tracks !! No kidding.. The Mark VIII's its minor but gets worse depending on the Hill and weight in the car. When fully loaded with adults, it can be bad climbing a hill !! I never have this problem with my older Fords, or any other cars for that matter. Only the Ford with this AEOD transmission... So.. What is the problem and the cure? A Ford guy down the street is telling me Valve Body... Is this true? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.. :)
What your feeling is a TCC shudder, this is very common on these units, first thing to do is service the trans, get new fluid and a filter in there. If it still continues, you may have to change the torque converter. Gary
Wizard Transmissions Denver , Adam rebuilt it for me almost 3 years ago. Cost 3500. I bought the car used and it ate 2nd gear. Adam replaced the sprag clutch with a ratchet version and told me he would bring the rest of the transmission up current. Ever since it was finished, it had some shudder. Slight, but had some . The check engine light would come on during shudder. Light acceleration climbing a hill it would shudder and make the check engine light come on. Adam says it is a engine misfire. I told him the car never did that before. Had new wire set and plugs installed and not sure what else he did, but it improved but never totally went away. At least the check engine light does not come on any more. Each year I take the car back to him to keep his 3 year warranty valid, and each time the shudder is worse until he does his service. I am guessing he is putting in new fluid which almost eliminates the problem for a while. It concerns me that the torque converter is the problem. Is there a best torque converter? After market? would a shift kit installed in the valve body eliminate the problem?
The fact that he does a service and it gets better, says to me the converter is chattering. Not really anything special on these converters. Does he build them himself or does he buy them from his parts supplier? It sounds like the clutch in the converter at this point is no good.
I will have to check and verify.. Thanks... Also.. Since the shudder only occurs at low rpm under light acceleration pulling a hill 3 and 4 th gears only, is there a way to change Shift points for 3 and 4th ? If I can get the shift points rpm higher, this should fix or mask the problem. It seems that 3 gear engagement rpm is super low just idling along it will shift into 3rd.
What year is your Grand Marquis??? That is important to know. There were Flashes some years to change the lockup strategy. Make sure you touch the brake gently and confirm it is not drivability related. Touching the brake instantly unlocks the TCC. My 96 Explorer had a bad plug, it felt almost as bad as the TCC shudder(the problem happens mostly during that RPM range because it really loads the engine). There can be other base engines concerns as well, EGR, MAF ,etc. A good scan tool can rule it out. Your Marquis could have a leaking intake manifold, letting coolant into a plug well and misfiring. Just FYI. Beyond that Ford Transmissions are designed to so the torque converter clutch slips a few RPM(fuel economy, NVH reasons). A good scan tool can actually show you precisely how much. This also creates more heat and actually depletes the friction modifiers. It is critical that you have the correct fluid. Friction modifiers in the fluid allow the clutch to grab and release without sticking. No different than licking fingers to turn pages. Do a complete flush with a certified Mercon V fluid. You could probably drain the torque converter thru the bolt, if not pump it out thru the cooler 2 qts at a time. If this does not help, research a product called "Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix." My 95 Tbird with 250K on the original trans has no shudder with this product, and I drive it very hard. Places told me the torque converter was trashed, but after a bottle (many many years ago, no problems since). Also, a Trans cooler is a very good idea, it was actually part of a Ford TSB from the mid 90s. They would install one if you lived in southern states. Remember the friction modifiers are destroyed by heat!
Gary Ferraro yeah it has a new converter all new solenoids I was reading that the tcc solenoid could be the wrong one and that it should read 10-12 ohms I’m gonna check that tonight
My forward clutch is slipping on initial start, but only when the wheels are turned. Rebuilt trans with Sonax sure cure kit, and problem is still present (not as bad though). Any ideas?
Yes, the sonnax kit included a new regulator valve and OD servo pin with orings. Clutch does not slip when wheels are straight, only turned. Seems to only occur when vehicle is at temp; does not seem to occur when cold. No check engine lights.
It says removing the accumulator springs and drilling holes in the seperator plate, This will shift very firm in my opinion. Have you looked into a Transgo shift kit?
Gary, sounds like my fluid was just low. The transmission has slipped on take-off one time a few days ago since adding a little over 1/2 quart 3 weeks ago. This was a definite improvement. At that point, I checked the level in neutral after a 20 minute drive and the fluid level was in the middle of the hot mark. I added a little more fluid and am waiting to see if that cures it 100%. I didn't realize that fluid level was so critical on these transmissions. It was never below the safe area on the dipstick. I appreciate possibly the $5 fix, and your obvious expert knowledge and understanding of the subject.
Just did an overhaul on the 2004 Crown Vic. Wish I had found this video before, but it seems I got it right anyway. Right down to the Tough Plate. Thanks Gary!!
Thanks Gary! Like the way you describe what happens if something fails or sticks and what symptoms it causes in the transmission. I have worked on many Ford transmissions because of that stupid OD cir clip clogging the 3-4 galley. You have a new (old) subscriber.
Thanks Hal and thanks for watching
Thank you. I've been looking for two days for that info. I took my valvebody off. Cleaned everything up. That's when I discovered those two bolts. I wasn't sure enough about their location to reinstall the valve body. Have a good one. Got to get to work.
Excellent job and video. Only one I could find like it. Thanks a million.
Thanks for watching
Very informative video. Thanks again.!!
Gracias maestro Gary excelente trabajo llevo años trabajando y de usted eh aprendido mucho siga así, felicidades y bendiciones gracias por compartir sus conocimientos...👋
Great video. You answered many questions for my 2005 F150 with 4R75.
Thanks for watching
Also, this cap for the 2-3 accumulator. Wouldn't adding this cap affect travel space on the accumulator? Maybe that's not an issue....just something I thought of.
Really useful. Thanks. I'm always nervous about changing 'known good' solenoids for sparkling new...but, they are mechanical so...what can you do?
Thanks for the help because no one else has talked about that neutral thing's it' help out a lot
Hi, Gary! First of all thanks for so good and helpful video! I have a problem with 4r75e transmission. I bought a 2007 F150 recently and it has no 4th gear. No fault code after driving 15 miles. I dropped the pan oil was very brown and was smelling burned. Also there was a small chops. The servo drive snap ring was in place and not damaged. Then I’ve checked valve body. There was nothing wrong all the valves was moving easy. I bought another transmission and before to put it in the car I inspected the new valve body. It was near perfect condition as well as transmission parts which I could observe. So I replaced transmission and I’ve got same exact issue no 4th gear. Everything looks and feels the same. 1st gear up to 2000rpm then shifts to 2nd drops rpm and after reaching 1800-2000rpm shifts to 3rd without dropping rpm then stays in 3rd about couple seconds and then shifts to 4th and revs rpm like on neutral. With OD off runs on 3rd gear. Can go 50mph with 2500rpm. Fluid temp 65-69C. So it drives and feels the same as old one. On my 2005 expedition transmission shifts different. 1st up to 2000 then shifts to 2nd and drop rpm then after 2000rpm shifts to 3rd and drop rpm then after 2000rpm shifts to 4th and drop rpm then at about 45mph and 2000rpm overdrive engages and it drop rpm again to about 1200rpm. Can it be a wiring or a PCM problem or it’s that’s another bad transmission. If it’s electric problem why I don’t get fault code? What kind of tests I can do to find out what’s wrong. I can perform pressure test but I don’t know which port to test and what kind of readings I should see. Any advice will be highly appreciated. Thank you a lot!
Alex Dobrov Do you have a scan tool that shows live data. I would like to know if 4th gear is being commanded
Gary Ferraro yes and I just did a test drive. Here is the video that shows live data ruclips.net/video/GsSHupgLB_4/видео.html and that one ruclips.net/video/Bh-PwPK5-lg/видео.html shows gear command test. In both cases there is no rpm drop after 3rd gear was engaged and neutral condition after shifting to 4th gear. That video shows old transmission and valve body ruclips.net/video/T4Tullj4n_k/видео.html Fluid looks bad and this is after 5qt fluid change. 2-3 accumulator plate doesn’t holds inside of housing. Plate has big dent but no cracks.
Gary Ferraro so what is your advice. What I should check first or what can be wrong? Thank you for any help.
Excellent thank you so much for sharing this important information
Thank you for watching. Please subscribe
Thank you Gary. This video gave me the exact info I needed to know that my trans problem is having. Neutral effect on take off. Solenoid regulator valve.
what year is your car or van?
Great video . Thanks for your time and sharing your know how . this is the best video on this subject on the web . Again thank you.
Wow, Thanks Joe
It is a 2010 xl model with the 4.6. Plate shows transmission Q or the 475 4 speed. As I mentioned I purchased this truck new it has only 34k miles and when I initially drained the pan the pan was not dirty at all. But the e-clip had broken and part of it fell in the valve body not letting it shift into 4th. Again Thanks
Thank you very much,sir
+Saw Tun Thanks for watching
4R70w valvebody
Great work Gary
+احمد محمد Thank You
Hello Mr. Gary, you said you torque it down to 100 in lbs?
Excellent video, I have a 1997 5.0 Explorer with a 4R70W. It shifted fine unit I went and played all weekend in the sand, 4k cookies and all. Now as soon as you let off the throttle when it is up to operating temp it downshifts to 3rd harshly at any speed from 4th. Cold the thing shifts and operates like a champ. Also when its operating temp if I leave OD off when in 3rd it will jerk harshly like its grabbing the OD band and then lets go and will stay in 3rd with no other issues, until it downshifts and goes back into 3rd. If OD is on it shifts to 4th normally and doesn't act up until I let off of the throttle. I dropped the pan and it was clean, I was expecting to find debris from the torque converter due to my high rpm playing. I was wondering if you have seen this, Thanks for any advice.
It also slips into neutral if taking a hard corner at 25-30 mph. It will not engage into drive again until I either slow down to 15mph or manually shift to 2nd. It also is slow to engage drive (5-7) seconds from park. Reverse works immediately without issue every time. Thanks Again.
This is a classic sign of it being low on fluid, have you checked it?
Had similar issue with the trans filter falling into the pan. Felt like it was slipping on inclines or hard right turns. I made a sheetmetal strap secured under 2 valve body bolts to hold the filter from falling off. Works fine now.
I have an important question?. I have a fully rebuilt valve body and transmission when you put it in drive. Second gear is the only gear that slips until it hits third. But if you manually shift it it works fine. What can cause that? Please let me know
so it slips on the 1-2 shift?
@5:30 wht grit sand papper. Are u using ???
Gary, not sure if you'll see this. I've got the OD into neutral issue, but also it will not engage drive until I've revved it to about 3K rpms. I've pulled the valve body for a rebuild, plus changing sensors. The OD servo snap rings are fine. Everything looks good and normal. Just wondering if the sensors, and/or valves could cause that not late RPMs to engage drive problem? With OD off, it shifts great and drives fine, even at highway speeds.
What year is this? how is reverse? with o/d off still delays in drive? any codes?
What could cause a temporary neutral position when engaging reverse? Slowly engages reverse. Worse when transmission is hot compared to when it is cold. 4r75w 2008
Great video Gary. Question: I have a 05 5.4 with 4R75E. I have lost drive and OD. Doesn't shift out of 2nd when in drive with OD switched off. Let off the gas pedal and the tach free falls to 1k. I pulled the pan and valve body. No metal in the pan. Fluid was good. Snap rings and clips seem to be intact. I expected to find a broken clip and blockage. Could shifting solenoids cause this. No codes were thrown.
Did u ever figure it out
Did you solve the problem @weidnerr
No. Got a rebuilt transmission
Great video Gary. The 4R70W in my 2000 expedition shifts beautifully under normal driving conditions. At highway speeds while in OD, however, if I try to pass with wide open throttle the transmission flares badly, (i guess when downshifting to 3rd). Does that sound like a problem with the pressure regulator valve or solenoid regulator valve?
The trans may be stepping down to 2nd, if not wide open throttle it's ok
Yes Gary, it's okay if not wide open throttle. if i go wide open the rpms jump to around 4500 and it feels like its in neutral for about 2 seconds then it shifts hard. Thanks
have a 97 f150, when coming to a stop it acts like someone taking to long to push in the clutch, and occasionally it will seam as tho it needs to be in a lower gear while accelerating. already tried the solenoids
Sorry i missed the message, how did you make out with the trans?
Awesome video... once again! What are you using to flat sand the surfaces? Is it just sand paper on a wooden block? If so, what grit sand paper do you use? Thanks a million for these videos.
i use a fine stone(fine on one side course on the other side) Course side i never use
Thanks. You just diagnosed an issue I'm having that didn't make sense.
Great video. I have an 06 grand marquis that after long drives it starts shifting hard sometimes from 1-2. I don't get any codes. It's erratic sometimes it will shift fine other times it will shift hard. All other gears shift fine. I'm getting ready to drop the VB soon. Any thoughts?
Hello, One problem could be a worn pressure regulator valve or bore, when worn can cause a harsh1-2 shift. Also in the upper right hand corner is the 1-2 accumulator(easy to come out a bit of a pain to put back in. Gary
Thank you for the input. I'll give an update after I drop the VB.
Ok sounds good
Hey Gary I have my transmission all completely disassembled I was wondering what do I clean the valve body with ? Brake clean someone told me diesel whats your input on that ? And after cleaning how do I dry it of if using diesel air dry?
What about the tiny basket filter that sits on top of the valve body? Is it required
If you have one fine, if not no problem
What can i use to clean my gaskets?
Where do i find one of those honing stones?
Gary great vid. Have you ever seen a solenoid reg valve stuck that caused delay slip engagement only from initial park to drive or reverse to drive..... then once its left in drive no more issue??
Yes, i have seen that a few times
@@GaryFerraro thank you! I will try freeing that valve up!
Great video!! I have a 97 Ford f150 4x4 lariat with a 4r70w, I have reverse which works great but I have to accelerate to shift into first gear after that all gears shift with no problem but when I go to a stop it does it again or if I take it out of drive. Thanks Gary
either there is a problem with the forward drum or clutches, or the solenoid regulator valve is sticking.
Recommendatio is to check the valve body first? Thanks!
@@michaeldomenech34 yes, that could be done without pulling the trans
Thank you sir!
Hey man love the videos, I have a 96 f150 2wd 4r70w and it starts off in 2nd and never shifts to 3rd or od.. I can manually pull it to first and first is good shift ton2nd n 2nd is good shift to drive and it just stays in second gear. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Gary, thanks for the informative video. I have this 4R70W in my 2001 F150. I have this exact neutral condition that occurs on take-off and I am planning to remove the valve body to check and replace everything you recommend. I obviously don't own this hone or bore tool for the solenoid regulator valve. This tool is very expensive! For a guy like me, what do you recommend? Replace the valve body? I don't want the truck to be down for more than a day, so I want to head in the right direction before buying the parts.
Hello, just want to make sure there are no codes present? and fluid level is full? does this happen all the time or only under heavy acceleration?
+Gary Ferraro this problem occurs intermittently. If I stay in the accelerator it hits the gear hard like a neutral drop. Fluid level is full and doesn't smell burnt. Hard acceleration or normal does not make a difference, and fluid/vehicle temperature doesn't matter. I will say that I cannot trace back where the fluid was ever changed and it has 160k. I would estimate this neutral like condition to occur 5-10% of the time. I feel it happen, I just let off the gas so it doesn't cause damage, then try again and it will grab. 0-5mph is the speeds where it will slip, Initial accelerate from a stop or initial accelerate after making a slow speed turn
+Gary Ferraro no codes present on my code reader, although I have a generic one. I am more experienced on Chevys. Do I need a special code reader to read transmission codes on a ford or would tranny codes show up on a regular $100 scanner that you can buy from the parts store?
Hello, Its very possible the solenoid reg valve is stuck, but accelerating after a turn could be a low fluid condition, this is what i would like for you to do first, when the car is stone cold(sit overnite) pull the stick out (dont start the car) and make sure its 2 1/2 inches above the full mark, if it is then its full.
Gary Ferraro hello
I Rebuilt My 4r70w and when i take to the road test 1er to 2dn have dealy. when I stop in the trafic ligh and star pushen gas , take like 3 seconds to be moving.
reverse is ok? no problems there?
Hello Gary, I appreciate your videos. Very helpful. I am wondering if you will give me some advice or direction...I recently purchased a 02' f150 which I drove for a couple of days with no indication of any transmission issues. I started up and put into gear... NOTHING. I heard no clanging or the like when parking and shutdown. When it is put into drive, it slows the engine slightly. With application of gas, it's like neutral. I checked the fluid level and discovered that it was way over filled. Could you please give me some direction or advice as to how to figure it out. Thanks
Hello, You actually answered my question before i asked you. My question was, is the fluis level correct or overfull. Being the fact that the fluid is overfull, your transmission pump went bad(the pump is not sucking the fluid into the converter). Not much can be done other than pulling the trans out. Gary
Gary today I tested the car 50 miles and the car didn't vibrate anymore thank you😃
+Jose Perez Awesome, glad it fixed
Great video. Can you tell me why the flow from tranny to a cooler is so weak? I have the same tranny on my e350 and I performed a flow test directly from tranny to an empty bottle. So I got one quart in 2 minutes which is bad sign. But it shifts like it should and there is no codes or issues except high working temp. Thanks.
If the trans is heating up, there is a restriction somewhere. Do you have an air compressor? If so disconnect the cooler lines and blow through them, see if there is any back pressure, may have restriction in radiator
@@GaryFerraro Hi ! Everything is absolutely clean! Weak flow is right from the tranny. If you disconnect the hose from the outlet right on the tranny, you will see how lazy is the flow=)
Hello Mr. Ferraro. I have a 2000 Merc Mountaineer 5.0 4r70w with code p0741. Shifts fine 1-2 but 2-3 goes nuetral. OD light flashes when driving and its supposed to 2-3 shift a few times and fails. Any ideas or suggestions on this issue would be much appreciated. Thank you for taking time to make these great informative videos.
You may have a problem with your direct drum or direct clutch, this drum is located at the rear of the trans, this is a common problem
Great video. Got me to thinking I may have a valve body problem vice a internal transmission problem. Maybe you could give me a hint of the best approach to determining the correct path to take.
I was driving my 2004 F150 4X4, with a 4R70W trans, at about 60mph, I went to kick it down to accelerate and the transmission seemed to slip. This raised my concerns as I had just completed a 1500 mile trip. Upon checking the fluid level, found it to be approximately 1.5 quarts low, added the needed fluid. However, it seemed sluggish at take off.
Later that evening, after the truck had set and the weather had gotten cold, it didn't want to move. There didn't seem to be any lock up. I was able to limp the truck home, got a CEL and trans error.
Went out today, pulled the codes: P0506 and P0720. Noticed that I seemed to have reverse, but very little torque in forward gear. Upon putting truck in drive, the CEL ignited and got trans error again.
Decided to drop pan to see if there was filings or anything in pan. Fully expecting to find a bunch of stuff in old and pan, was surprised to find the pan and oil relatively clean.
Kind of at a point of not knowing where to from here. Feeling I may have missed some tests I should have done prior to getting this far, but don't want to put it all back together, only to tear it down again for no good reason.
Is there anything I should look for while I have the pan off? Would a stuck solenoid or pressure lose within the throttle body cause this issue?
Thanks in advance. Going out to make some "uneducated" checks. :)
An added note here: I just remembered, while adding fluid I noticed that when I went from "R" to "D" to ensure the torque converter was full of oil and engaging; it would lockup solid in "R" while "D" didn't to the same. I could hear the normal click of slack being taken up, when going into "R", but not "D".
Harold,
if you have good reverse but no forward or very little forward, there is an issue with the forward. Either the drum is cracked or the clutches are worn and possible the seal for the forward piston is torn. If you have good reverse but bad forward, it cant be a pump, filter or pressure regulator problem. What happened to your trans is fairly common, i see alot of that. Gary
Thanks Gary. I started chasing the P0720 code, Output Speed Sensor. Which on this model is located in the pumpkin of the axle. Believing that maybe it was causing the trans to go into limp mode, which may account for the sluggish forward. I am having a hard time convincing myself that it is a trans problem, without there being more debris in the pan.
Going to put it all back together, tomorrow, and replace the OSS. If that works, it will be better than replacing the trans.
Is there a good way to prove it is a trans problem and not a sensor issue? I have ohmed out the shift and TC solenoids and rigid wiring harness; they all checked good.
Trying to find a definitive answer, without just replacing parts to replace parts.
Thanks again.
Harold,
If your working with a 4R70W trans, the output speed sensor is on the left side of the trans in the rear of the case. The sensor in the diff may be the rear ABS sensor. Look left side behind the linkage.
Yes, you are correct; no surprise there. I checked the sensor and it read 415 ohms. Wires going to the PCM checked good, .5 ohms each. They are not shorted together. So, again..... where to now. Either the code was bad, PCM bad, or output shaft not turning correctly. Going back together with it all and see if the same code and symptoms return. May have to take it to a shop with the cool tools to have it tested. Any suggestions, would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help so far.
What size are the check valves?
I got an 1998 Ford 4R75W and I noticed it's starting to hesitate from 3rd to 4th at about 35 mph then once it's above 35 it stays in overdrive. I'm under the impression the Overdrive Servo pin is starting to wear out. Kind like it's up shifting then back down after it warms up. You think the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit would fit it. As I know you can use an old shift roller to lock the band in place while you change it in the vehicle. Then install a Spiral ring to make sure the dreaded snap ring doesn't mess the transmission core up...
And any other things to change while in there.
Thank You
Hello, usually when that pin bore wears, after driving it may neutralize in 4th, Question, did you happen to look at a scanner to make sure its not a lock-up issue? If it is in fact a shift to 4th then you would have to look at the band(direct clutch comes on in 3rd and stays on for 4th) I would probably change out the piston and use the sonnax pin(the one with the o-ring. I honestly never used a sure cure on a 4R70W yet.
Hello Mr. Ferraro, Jorge here again. I'm personally cleaning the valve body valve by valve. I did run into a head scratcher and called it a day. On many online illustrations there is one valve that is numbered, (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16). 13 and 16 are lock clips. I seem to have forgotten where # 13 goes. I'm not sure if if goes shoved on top of the spring. Or if is is shoved in between # 12 and # 14? Thank you for your videos and thank you for responding.
What year is the car?
@@GaryFerraro 1999
I does not move in manual low either. I'm sure the transmission is 4R75W. One more thing, I misspoke about the year...it's a 2000. Not much different, but it may help with diagnosis Doc Gary.
ok, so something with the foward drum, if this happened all of a sudden, possible something broke or stripped or the clutch pack is worndown or torn lip seal. Its a 4R70w if it has 14 pan bolts
+Gary Ferraro yeah, I was worried it was something inside it. I don't know if this narrows it down a bit...I let it sit in drive for a few minutes and it did engage once an pull forward with no slipping. I then put it in reverse and back in drive and then nothing again. What a bummer.
May narrow it down just to the foward clutch drum, common for the clutches to wear out and have too much clearance in the clutch pack, as a result tearing the lip seal.
+Gary Ferraro , thanks. I'm not looking forward to pulling it out, but I now know what it is. I have learned that if I ever purchase another vehicle... check all fluid levels! they can tell you a lot. Thanks again Gary.
Your welcome, make sure you change the lip seals on the foward piston. Gary
Hi Gary, I have a 2004 Crown Vic police interceptor with a 4R70W. It has 153200 miles. It shifts fine and has only one problem. When the engine and trans are hot there is a 3-4 second engagement delay when shifting into drive from neutral or reverse. When it finally shifts into drive (after the delay), it engages fine with no slipping. So I think the forward clutch is OK. Once in drive, it shifts fine through all gears. There is never any delay shifting into reverse. It seems like something is sticking in the valve body. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Could be the solenoid regulator valve located next to the manual valve. If this valve sticks or drags in the bore it will cause the trans to neutralize on takeoff then be ok.
Hello Gary, great video. I'm hoping you could give me some advise. I pulled and rebuilt my 5.4 2002 f150 engine. Now, after I put the engine back in, my transmission only goes forward when shifted in neutral and reverse and all drives. It did go in reverse a couple times as I backed it out of the shop, but now no reverse. I checked my linkage and seems good. I didn't adjust anything while I did the engine. The fluid level was good. I am going to pull out the valve body and repeat what I watched in your video. Would a valve being stuck cause this? The transmission did run fine before the overhaul. Thank you for your time. Dallas.
Dallas, Make sure that the manual valve is hooked up correctly, When it did reverse was it good reverse or not? Do you remember how many checkballs you put in the valvebody?
I haven't overhauled the valve body yet. After I got my engine in and running, my parking brake wouldn't release easily. So I backed up a few feet and drove forward while trying to pop the parking brake free. After two times I only had forward in all positions. I manually shifted the tranny and the same result. This is my first time getting into a transmission, though I do have a good amount of mechanical background.
Ok, didyou do anything to the trans or just install back in? Stuck valve really wouldnt cause this problem, sure your linkage is ok? Gary
I left the transmission in and didn't mess with it. When troubleshooting I detached the linkage from the transmission and manually shifted while I had someone inside the running truck with the brake on. Each shift I made the truck wanted to go forward.
Ok, so we know theres an issue inside the unit, i would drop the pan, make sure the manual valve is ok and in place, if it is then possible your foward clutchs are locked together.
HI Gary. My nephew is having trouble with his 2001 F-150 not shifting past 2nd. He says he disconnects the battery, lets it sit for awhile and reconnects it. The truck then shifts fine. He was thinking one of the selenoids.
Do you know if any codes are present? what happens when it should go into 3rd, does it rev up like its in neutral? It only makes a 1-2 shift correct
He hasn't check for codes yet. He says it shifts normally into 2nd and then doesnt make any attempt to shift to 3rd.
Could have an issue with the 2-3 accumulator or an issue with the drum, also could be a solenoid, but havent seen that much. Does anyone have a scanner that shows live data, i would like to see if 3rd gear is being commanded.
I have a scanner. Need to get him over here after his trip to DIsneyworld. Thanks, Gary.
Ok, when you scan it see if any codes, then drive it see if 3rd is being commanded by the computer
Gary , how can I build this trans to be heavy duty ? I use it to haul my tools and 5th wheel all over the west coast and hit mountains regularly . I have the trans on its own radiator and exterior filter as well as a pan with drain plug to change fluid every 25k miles . I have about 450 hp engine in the truck and have had the trans rebuilt twice . how ever i was not there when done and didnt see what was done . so now that i have the time and chance to do it I am looking to do it myself that way i know what is in it . What would be best in this situation as far as materials , red alto friction ? or is something better out there to use ?
Alto reds would work, kolene steels, maybe a shift kit, high energy bands
I have one of these transmissions in my 98 F150. It works totally fine but I notice under very hard acceleration I hear a slight bushing noise in first gear only. Which bushing would only make a noise in first gear?
ok, so would you say you hear a noise in first that goes away when shifts to 2nd?
@@GaryFerraro Yes I only hear it in first under hard acceleration. Don't hear it under normal or light acceleration.
Como consigo la piedra con que lima la parte inferior. Saludos desde Guanajuato Mexico
Sorry dont understand, but i dont use inferior parts. Gary Thanks for watching
Hi Garry, thank for your video, I have rebuilt my 4R75e and also put a sonax valve kit in the body valve but now when I put it in drive it’s neutral but I can take off in low 1rst then put it on drive and roll however it also goes to neutral on the 3rd gear and go from the 2nd to 4th
After listening to your video I think the solenoid pressure regulator valve could be the problem for the neutral takeoff.
Do you think I’m right in my diagnosis?
I also want to tell you that when I shift it from park to drive the pressure to the foward clutch raise up over 100 psi then I ear a clic then the pressure drop right away. I hope you can help me! Thank you
usually when it will not move in drive buit will in low range is a bad low sprag(located in the planetary) this is doing some strange stuff, also with out 3rd there usually is no 4th. Are all the checkballs in the correct spots? If you race up the car in drive will it jump into gear? How many quarts of fluid did you add?
Gary Ferraro I was also suspecting the sprag so I had all disassembled the transmission a second time after this issu but didn’t see any wrong with the sprag or any mechanical part to my eye
The check ball are to there right spot and it did not jump in gear even on full throttle and I put around 10 or more liter of fluid
@@p-og9972 Did you by chance change the sprag
Gary Ferraro no I didn’t change the sprag, may be I should try to replace it but I think that I also have a valve body issue because of the forward clutch raise and drop of pressure when I shift it in drive...
@@p-og9972 Does it drop to zero? If the B solenoid gets grounded it releases the forward clutch but usually produces a code. Reverse is good? strong?
I noticed you only replaced two valves. What stone did you use to clean the valve body?
Actually replaced Pressure Reg valve and Deburred Solenoid reg valve, I used a fine stone, forgot the grit though
I counted 9 valves on the 4r70w, in an overhaul, as I'm doing now, do all of them have to be replaced? They all have spring action. Although minimal spring action is noted
Gary....my 4R70W (1994 Ford F-150) goes Neutral at times on the highway!?
Think i spoke with you, change out that neutral switch
@@GaryFerraro
Yes you did... LoL! Thanks Gary 😊
Ok I got under the truck and there's no continuity between pins three and eight which seem to be the TCC also obviously no resistance I didn't replace the internal wiring harness when I rebuilt the transmission so I'm thinking it's damaged I'm going to drop the pan check the resistance on the TCC itself and replace the harness
Question, if you clear the code how fast does it return? do you have to drive the car or does the code come back as soon as its cleared
Gary Ferraro it seems to come back as soon and it is driven above 40 or so
this does not sound like a wiring problem, seems like the converter cannot fully lock-up due to some leak in the circuit. Did it have this code before?
is the 3rd gear issue you mentioned here gradual or instant? I was driving down the road and all of the sudden 3rd gear stopped working. It's like it slips into neutral. 2007 ford f150 4r75e
Thompson Jacob it could go either way. Very possible the drum splines stripped or the drum broke if it happened suddenly
Hi Gary I rebuilt my 4r70w and everything shifts great but no overdrive I get p1740 and p0741 I put all new solenoids on when I rebuilt it it’s a 2000 f150 5.4
What happens when it shifts to 4th, does it seem like it goes into neutral or just doesnt shift past 3rd? the P0741 and P1740 are converter codes, do you have a scanner that shows live data? Im asking about live data because i would like to know rpm slip when the converter locks up and im also wondering if 4th is being commanded
Gary Ferraro its seems to shift fine into 4th but when I’m running at 55mph it throws that code. I’m not sure about the live data I’m using an app obdfusion and a wifi reader I’ll have to check this evening I’d hate to drop the pan and waste all that oil could it be a Servo or accumulator issue
If its throwing the code at 55mph, this is when lock-up is on,when the torque converter can no longer fully lock-up it will produce this code. Its not dropping out of 4th correct? the codes that you are getting are for converter clutch, this could be a pump problem, converter problem, bushing problem. valvebody issue.
Gary Ferraro correct stays in 4th could I turn overdrive off and bypass it for now
What lock-up is, is when the converter is locked to engine rotation, this cuts down on heat,sometimes lock-up will come after 3rd, but it doesnt sound like you have a 4th gear problem, sounds like you have a converter problem
Hi Gary. I am from Bulgaria and just bought 1996 Lincoln Mark 8 LSC with transmission problem. When downshift engine is struggling and sometimes from 2-1 dies. Also when i put the shifter in position 2 engine dies right away. Can you help me with any ideas. Oil is fine and i already changed shift solenoid and 1-2 accumulator . Hope to give me any advice. Thanks
so this stalls coming to a stop?
Hi Gary. Thanks a lot for the quick reply. When the car accelerates, the shifting is more or less normal. But when I start to slow down and the box shifts from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1 the engine loads and even shuts off. Also, when I put the lever in position 2, the engine dies immediately. There is no problem in the other positions
Hey Gary I just built one of this and installed a shift kit. She ran beautiful a lot of power and smooth shift. Gave it back to customer now engine shuts of as soon as transmission is put into drive or reverse. Any ideas before I pull whole unit.. thanks a lot
Something is going on with torque converter, its not releasing, you may want to start with checking the valvebody, how many check balls did you install?
Gary Ferraro I put the 8. The van drives fine if I give it has b4 it shuts off shift threw all the gears. But get to a stop and I can feel it's overworking the engine, just like when you use a scanner to command lockup on.. unfortunately this model year give me no diagnostic function in the scanner. Any ideas I also installed a shift kit. Can something there be causing this.. can the tc solenoid be stuck
Sure it can be, how long the customer had it before it started shutting off? did you change any bushings? did you change the converter?
Gary Ferraro ok so this is getting crazy. The van drives fine after driving it for about 5 mins. I can come to a complete stop no problem switch through gears prndl no problem. Only happens when tranny is cold. Can it be a faulty tcc solenoid????
Alexis Ramirez I would say either that or a valve is hanging up in the valvebody. If the solenoid doesn't fix the problem you may have to clean the valvebody and put it in the freezer for a couple of hours and see if a valve is stuck or dragging in the bore
Do I remove that “sombrero” if I installed the sonnax valve body retainer plate out of my zip kit? With the sombrero installed and that plate I have to push the valve body down against the spring a few mm and wondering if it will make the 2-3 shift firm? Thanks
Yes, the sombero gets installed, the retainer plate save the separator plate because they crack
thanks for the video. Any ideas why i wouldnt have engine braking in 1 or 2 in my '99 4R70w?
Do you have a good reverse?
Yes. the trans works fine otherwise. It's a 4WD version(#53-1C on '98-'00 base)that was built by Hughes. So as you can imagine its getting a bit annoying having to use the brakes in steep situatons.
I've removed the VB and it seems to have Transgo shift kit.
@@FIXR7 Tre are different kinds of kits that Transgo sells, maybe check there website.
See if they sell reprogramming kits for this trans
@@GaryFerraro Yes Thanks Gary, already contacted them. Like Hughes..no response. I did find this video ruclips.net/video/KGcNC7lzvgM/видео.html I went through step by step and it appears mine(makes sense as it was built about 7 years ago and the video is 6 years old) has all these mods shown with the exception of one hole in Boost Valve area(separator plate side). The later version of the same AODE-HD2 kit have holes drilled in the separator plate which mine doesn't appear to have....I measured them and they haven't been drilled out.
Hi Gary. I need help with my 2003 Mustang GT 4R70W issue that has just started. The car has 160K, and has two flushes by previous owner (60K, and 110K) The car began to slip into neutral at stoplights last week. Lots of stop and go in my area. It is slow to go into drive when shifted to park. RPMs usually get it to engage. I removed the pan, changed filter, and refilled with Mercon V. The pan had no metal debris, but had never been dropped. It still had the yellow factory fill plug from dipstick. The symptoms are hit or miss. I really need to avoid a rebuild in this situation. No dash lights of any kind are illuminated. Any advice would help. Thank You in advance.
Hi Gary. I checked the fluid. It shows full, and slightly overfilled at times. Someone mentioned the filter I just installed could have slipped off. There was some of the gray paste like film in the pan when I dropped it. No metal parts.
I got a problem with my trans. Shifts fine in 1-2-3 but shifting from 3-4 has a hard shift. Rides and speed up just fine but have that hard upshift. No hard down shifting ( that i can feel at least ) . what do you think could be the problem
can you tell me if any codes are present
What are the symptoms of a worn out pressure regulator boost valve? i have a 2005 crown victoria p71 4r70w and it slips and sometimes shudders in reverse under medium throttle or slight uphill. fluid was lightly burnt and filter was changed with no effect. i'm not sure if it could be a leaking valve, leaking reverse servo, or worst case burnt clutches. any thoughts before i take it apart again? thanks for the informative video!
How does it work foward?
all forward gears are perfect. shifts are firm absolutely no slippage even at full throttle. lockup works as it should.
if your on a flat, and you place it in reverse it seems to go in and function normal no delayed engagement. it wont slip until you give it about 10% throttle, if its on any sort of incline where you have to throttle it will slip very badly. i dont think it would reverse up a steep hill at all. it shuddered yesterday in a flat parking lot with mild slippage and that was the first time it has done that. its the same warm or cold
Ok, one more thing i would like you to try, can you select manual low? if so any slipping there?
ok, i went for a drive and what i found is today after putting about 80 miles on 5 new quarts of merconV and filter change, the reverse goes into gear no delay and you can feel it engage but the car almost wont move unless you give it about 1800 + rpms then it starts to move slowly, while slipping and chatters or shudders very badly but moves. if you rev the car to 3000rpm and let off and rev again it will move in reverse faster and faster but chattering is still there. i also hear a sound like a bird chirping while reversing under load or accelerating foreward under load. when shifted to 1st at 35mph it takes about 6 seconds before it actually does anything, it does engine brake the car like it should normally and feels very firm no slippage.
Gary I was wondering if my valve body has begun to fail i just had a trans rebuild done and my truck slips out of gear when taking off from a stop light then slams back into gear I'm worried about causing damage to the internals any ideas? thanks also no trans related codes
Check the solenoid reg. valve, located next to the manual valve. If it's dragging or sticking in the bore it will fall out of gear on takeoff.
Is there a kit with these parts you replace? I've found shift improvement kits with valves and springs and the like, but none of the photos show the balls and the little filter you replaced.
The only kit i know of is the overhaul kit for the trans, i dont think the sub kits are sold seperatly
Hey
What causes a 3-4 shift flare?
Either a problem with the band or the direct clutch
Hello, quick question. 2006 f150 2wd 4.6 start truck put in drive takes off fine. Then as it shifts to 2nd it like its in neutral. Turn off overdrive and it shifts through all the gears fine. Start truck turn off overdrive and it drives fine. I was told I probably had a broke split ring in the valve body. I removed the valve body and all the rings were intact. I had no metal chips in the fluid. The fluid actually looked good. What could cause this problem?
Are there any trouble codes present?
I'm getting P0108 and P0406.
Those are engine codes, strange issue not sure why it does that, not sure why the shift is no good when the overdrive is on. Are you sure it's the 1-2 shift? what if you pull the lever down to manual one and upshift it manually
What else could it be? 2003 F150. I have the 3-4 neutral condition. Firstly I can't check codes at this time. The C clip is fine. The E clip is fine. The valve moves freely. The fluid is about the worst I have seen for color and grime. 1-2, and 2-3 are solid and sure. O/D switched off keeps it from happening. 198k miles.
Sounds like the band is no good, trans has to come out to see the band. Band works in 4th gear
@@GaryFerraro That's what I was afraid of. TY
1998 f150 4x4 4r70w full rebuild, changed selonoids then drove to only slowly lose drive, no material in pan ideas? have valve body out already
did you loose reverse also? How long did it take to loose drive?
Gary Ferraro has reverse..rebuilt it first time burnt direct clutches and reverse band then i only had second gear then changed shift seloniod it felt like it was shifting but quickly lost drive to near nothing all new clutches and electronics but no material in pan
Two certified guys said valve body problem, havent seen any flaws yet all valves move freely all balls there no tears in new gaskets, maybe not torqued up properly? Warped?
Ok, question, did it move in manual one? Possible sprag problem. How long before you lost drive range?
Gary Ferraro i believe it was losing manual 1&2 also.
Valvebody wise, double check the 3-4 shift valve, the foward clutch gets released in 4th and if that shift valve is hanging up, it could prevent the application of the foward clutch, if that is good, then there is an issue with the foward clutch itself. If you have good reverse, this tells me that the pump, pressure regulator valve and filter are ok.
You didn't link or add part numbers etc of these different parts you put in
Sorry, If you need, I can ask my transtar rep for part numbers
Why didn't you ream out the valve bores?
really found no need to, i put the upgraded PR valve in and send a tool through the solenoid reg valve to Debur the bore and i'm good to go, never had a problem
@@GaryFerraro Is this the tool you used?sonnax 76948-BST
@@TropicBreezeRealty yes
Gary Ferraro, (Or Anyone else who can help also?) I'm hoping you can help me with my 1998 Ford Explorer 5L AWD that has the 4r70w? I bought it a couple years back and had no problems with the transmission for the first year, in-fact, I would pull 2 quarts of fluid out the pipe and refill with 2 fresh Merc V's every 3 months. About 1 year ago I started getting vibrational semi-hard shifting into 4 gear (overdrive) -- a friend told me to try Lucas transmission fix, so I did and it helped for a few months and gradually came back -- now it seems to be migrating into 3rd gear especially if I'm going really easy on the gas during shifting -- I was going to just pull the pan and change the filter and pan fluid and hope for the best? Should I do what you did here or try my thing first? The truck has 200k on it but, the 302 gt is still super strong -- I love this truck ! It's an occasional problem shift -- it doesn't do it every-time.
Sounds like you have a converter chatter. If caught in time changing the transmission fluid and filter may fix it, if not a new converter may have to be installed. when you say vibration, does it feel like your going over rough road or maybe railroad tracks?
@@GaryFerraro, Actually, thanks Gary, after a bunch of research until 3am lastnight, I determined it had to be what you just said, "converter chatter" so, I went to autozone bought a filter and walmart for fluid and went for it this afternoon -- I just finished cleaning up and decided to check to see if you responded -- I added some more Lucas fix too as it is suppose to have some friction modifier in it that helps with converter clutching I guess. Anyways, it worked like a charm -- turns out, it was the first filter service on 200k as the plug was in the pan -- you hit the nail right on the head -- thanks for your prompt response bro !
Wm Hoffman Glad to hear you got it fixed
@@GaryFerraro -- I have one last question for now if you don't mind, even though this remedied this: would you suggest anymore friction modifier like, "Dr. Tranny Instant shudder Fixx" -- it came up in my research last night and I thought I'd get your expert opinion on it? Keep in mind I added a bottle of Lucas fix with a gallon of fresh fluid with the new filter?
Wm Hoffman Dr Tranny instant shudder fix I like. I used before. I do not use Lucas in the transmissions.
thank you jerry tomorrow I'll change the epc solenoid and the n i will tell you. Thank You ahain for helpimg me
+Jose Perez Your welcome. Gary
Hello Gary great stuff. Experienced the no 4th issue pulled valve body and removed part of e clip. Reinstalled and have 4th gear now but am kicking a p0755 solenoid b code. Replaced both solenoids but still wrench on dash and p0755 code. 2010 f-150 with only 34 k miles. Starts and goes in r fine but when in d starts off in 2nd gear not 1st. If you shift to low it goes into first. is this a valve body issue or could I have out one of the 8 balls in wrong place. Any help would be appreciated. Gary W
Sounds electrical, if you clear the code, it comes right back?
Thank You very much for replying. Yes I tried to clear the codes several times and when you restart the engine the code comes right back. I cleared it via the obd port as well as removing the negative battery cable. I also had to replace the air flow sensor but I tried the original one again with idle issues. You can hear the valve operating going from reverse to drive just no first gear and the code appears. The odd part is when I first road tested the truck everything seemed ok for 20 minutes or so then while going up a hill the trouble appeared. Still was able to drive home just no first gear. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Gary W
@@garywilson3001 what year is the truck
@@GaryFerraro hello it is a 2010 4.6 that has the 4r75 transmission code Q on door tag As I mentioned I purchased it new has 34k miles and when I drained fluid the pan was clean. Thanks for your help
@@garywilson3001 If it comes right back, it is electrical for sure, check the connection at the trans and check the external harness, sometimes they get burned on the exhaust , follow the harness up from the trans and see if you see anything
What is the torque specs for the valve body
I do 100 inch pounds
Mr. Garry very good video . I have 2008 mercury grand marquis and odometer so far 200526km shifting smooth .oil and filter was change earlier I noticed slipping only at high hell road and when I hard acceleration , but when I reduce the acceleration it go smoothly. any idea? plz I need your help .I tried to get the transmission model and number but I couldn't .thanks
This is a rear wheel drive? or front wheel drive?
Gary Ferraro rear wheel drive
Trans is a 4R75E, would you say there is slipping going into 3rd gear?
Normally when hard acceleration only slips but normal no fine.yes
،I don't know exactly but seems to be 3rd gear.
I have problem in my 98 Town Car. When I fast accelerate i hear sound like slipping belt when transmission change gear 1-2.
And i also have problem with change gear 2-3. When i fast accelerate transmission dont change gears from 2 to 3. Engine run to rev limit. When i press accelerator pedal at about 50% everything is ok. :/ I changed oil and it doesnt help.
Possible clutch squawk on the 1-2 shift. Common problem with the direct clutch burning out, direct is on in 3rd, a lot of jobs i get in the trans is doing what your is, can't do much about it other than pulling for an overhaul
@@GaryFerraro thank you :)
hay you help with the 62te woundering if you mit can help with a 4r75 e just did a 4r70 and no problmes with but the 4r75 has on 3rd go in nurtal and slip out of first under load just needing a direction befor pulling it again
Ok, just to confirm, does it go into neutral at 3rd gear and slip out of first? or only slip out of first, are you sure its full of fluid?
Can that 3-4 neutral condition be caused by a sticky valve, with no debris? I have one that quickly goes into a neutral condition then shifts into 4th from third and even more severe on down shift, it only does this during shifts, fully rebuilt, valves float good, no issues just replaced worn out thrust washers, 06 expedition
This sounds like your having a flared shift which means the timing is off, if its shifting then the valves are moving but there is a pressure loss in the trans
Gary Ferraro thank you
Flared shift describes it exactly, could this be an excessively worn valve or is this a pressure loss elsewhere you think?
usually not a worn valve, this could be something with the o/d piston or the 2-3 accumulator, also make sure its not overfull, if the solenoids get flooded it will flare as well. Does it flare when the car is hot and cold?
Hot and cold, doesn't change, it is overfilled a little bit, i just had the vb out, it didnt do this before, i fixed a sticky pressure regulator valve and ended up with this, new OD piston, plate was ok, thanks
Got any ideas as to what would cause this transmission to feel jumpy when you let off the accelerator and have a slight slam when you get back on the accelerator?
what speed does this happen? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro it's really noticeable at 45 - 55mph.. cant really feel it at any other speeds. No codes have popped up. I have a hard time telling of it may be ignition related.
@@bretearwood7027 does it seem like a rough road or going over railroad tracks?
@@GaryFerraro yea pretty much.. like a stumble almost like a misfire but felt at the rear wheels. Then a bump when back on the accelerator
@@GaryFerraro would you say these are symptoms of torque converter chatter or shudder?
My 01 f150 with the 4r70w doesn't engage in drive until I slightly rev it up then it stays in first until I shift the gear in park or neutral or when i come to a stop from highway speed but at idle if i rev to engage it will never fall out of gear, would a cleaner fix it?
sounds like the solenoid reg valve could be stuck. It's full of fluid correct?
@@GaryFerraro its full and on the forums they tell me if it was anything electronic it send a code
@@skidoock3606 It may be the solenoid regulator valve, not electrical, it's mechanical
@@GaryFerraro its looked it up you are right, I knew you'd be right i just didn't know what the valve looked like, could sea foam trans tune help it? Truck was sitting a year then this happened after driving it maybe 50 miles but was shifting into foward very slow when just getting it out of storage
When that valve sticks, the only thing that worked for me was a bore cleaner that sonnax sells, are you going to drop out the valve body?
Hi mr gary i have a 05 f150 lariat and when stating to go it shakes and it bearly goes but the shake is like something is holding it not like a misfire. I took valve body apart and found a servo clip broken. I replaced it but still doing the samething.i do have that dent in that plate, do you think that dent in the plate could make that happen? Thanks
How is reverse?
Gary Ferraro
Reverse is perfect
I replaced the gaskets for the plate also because it was missing two small pieces
I could send u the pic of the plate
Gary Ferraro
Oil was also clean no noises at all and no metal shavings at the pan
jerry i fixed a transmission 4R75W. when i acelerate to the end it vibrates. why is that?
+Jose Perez What speed do you feel the vibration? What was the original problem?
I have a 1996 ford f150 with the 4r70w and im having an issue with downshifting. I have to put it to fge floor to downshift and even then it sometimes doesnt do it. When it does it feels like someone rear ends me. Ive checked wiring,oil levels, and have no codes for sensors so im leading more towards a mechanical issue and its a newer transmission on it i service it regularly. Any input would be appreciated thanks
How is the engine running? Ant misfires or anything?
Engine is running great no issues at all
Upshifting, is ok? what about coasting down to a stop? any downshift clunks
Gary Ferraro upshift is fine and coming to a stop is great. The only clunks i get is when i go from park to reverse or drive and down shift from 4th to 3rd or 2nd when it happens on the rare occasion
ok, quick question, how are the mounts?
great job
Thank you
It still goes into reverse with no issues. what are your thoughts about this too?
ok, not a pump issue, does this move in manual low? do you know what trans you have? Gary
I have a 04 f150 heritage with the 4r70w transmission, it will go in reverse when cold but after normal warm-up temperature, it won't, shifts normal in drive though, what would be causing this. Thanks
Sounds like a pressure loss, there are 2 elements that apply in reverse, the reverse input clutch and the low/reverse band. the low reverse band is applied in manual low, so if you have engine breaking in manual one then the band would be ok and the clutch is your problem, if no engine breaking problem with the band.
I changed the fluid and filter hoping this would help fix it, but to now avail. What you suggested would require a teardown of the transmission right. I'm thinking it could be the reverse clutch, most cases the band would be broken and letting it go in reverse at all, so maybe it's the clutch. Thank you for the information you provided, hopefully I can get this fixed soon.
Richard Thomas how did the pan look. Any crap in the pan?
Just normal buildup around magnet, gunk but no metal shavings
The trans will probably have to come out, the reverse input drum is right behind the pump
I have almost 1/4 play up too down and side to side (wiggling) on the end of the output shaft from a 99 ford f150 transmission 4.6l (4r70w) what could be wrong? is it normal?
With the drive shaft in or out?
thanks for the replay. Yes with the drive shaft out
Ok, you will have play in that, the drive shaft will keep it center, it rides on a bushing in the extension housing. Sometimes when the trans fluid leaks from the rear seal its because the bushing is worn down. Gary
ok I understand now thanks again
What causes 3rd Gear shudder on these? I have owned 2 Mark VIII's and 2 Grand Marquis and all of them have Shudder issues mainly with 3rd gear. The Grand Marquis being the worst . I bought the one with 52,000 miles and when cold it had terrible shudder , but only when cold. At times it acted like, felt like and sounded like you were going over railroad tracks !! No kidding.. The Mark VIII's its minor but gets worse depending on the Hill and weight in the car. When fully loaded with adults, it can be bad climbing a hill !! I never have this problem with my older Fords, or any other cars for that matter. Only the Ford with this AEOD transmission... So.. What is the problem and the cure? A Ford guy down the street is telling me Valve Body... Is this true? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.. :)
What your feeling is a TCC shudder, this is very common on these units, first thing to do is service the trans, get new fluid and a filter in there. If it still continues, you may have to change the torque converter. Gary
Wizard Transmissions Denver , Adam rebuilt it for me almost 3 years ago. Cost 3500. I bought the car used and it ate 2nd gear. Adam replaced the sprag clutch with a ratchet version and told me he would bring the rest of the transmission up current. Ever since it was finished, it had some shudder. Slight, but had some . The check engine light would come on during shudder. Light acceleration climbing a hill it would shudder and make the check engine light come on. Adam says it is a engine misfire. I told him the car never did that before. Had new wire set and plugs installed and not sure what else he did, but it improved but never totally went away. At least the check engine light does not come on any more. Each year I take the car back to him to keep his 3 year warranty valid, and each time the shudder is worse until he does his service. I am guessing he is putting in new fluid which almost eliminates the problem for a while. It concerns me that the torque converter is the problem. Is there a best torque converter? After market? would a shift kit installed in the valve body eliminate the problem?
The fact that he does a service and it gets better, says to me the converter is chattering. Not really anything special on these converters. Does he build them himself or does he buy them from his parts supplier? It sounds like the clutch in the converter at this point is no good.
I will have to check and verify.. Thanks... Also.. Since the shudder only occurs at low rpm under light acceleration pulling a hill 3 and 4 th gears only, is there a way to change Shift points for 3 and 4th ? If I can get the shift points rpm higher, this should fix or mask the problem. It seems that 3 gear engagement rpm is super low just idling along it will shift into 3rd.
What year is your Grand Marquis??? That is important to know. There were Flashes some years to change the lockup strategy. Make sure you touch the brake gently and confirm it is not drivability related. Touching the brake instantly unlocks the TCC. My 96 Explorer had a bad plug, it felt almost as bad as the TCC shudder(the problem happens mostly during that RPM range because it really loads the engine). There can be other base engines concerns as well, EGR, MAF ,etc. A good scan tool can rule it out. Your Marquis could have a leaking intake manifold, letting coolant into a plug well and misfiring. Just FYI.
Beyond that Ford Transmissions are designed to so the torque converter clutch slips a few RPM(fuel economy, NVH reasons). A good scan tool can actually show you precisely how much. This also creates more heat and actually depletes the friction modifiers. It is critical that you have the correct fluid. Friction modifiers in the fluid allow the clutch to grab and release without sticking. No different than licking fingers to turn pages. Do a complete flush with a certified Mercon V fluid. You could probably drain the torque converter thru the bolt, if not pump it out thru the cooler 2 qts at a time. If this does not help, research a product called "Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix." My 95 Tbird with 250K on the original trans has no shudder with this product, and I drive it very hard. Places told me the torque converter was trashed, but after a bottle (many many years ago, no problems since). Also, a Trans cooler is a very good idea, it was actually part of a Ford TSB from the mid 90s. They would install one if you lived in southern states. Remember the friction modifiers are destroyed by heat!
Sorry to bug you again Gary do you think my oss sensor could cause this to happen
That would usually produce a P0720 code not the codes you have, did you change out the torque converter?
Gary Ferraro yeah it has a new converter all new solenoids I was reading that the tcc solenoid could be the wrong one and that it should read 10-12 ohms I’m gonna check that tonight
What year is your car?
Gary Ferraro 2000 f150 5.4
This should be the hard wire harness, you cant put the wrong solenoid in, the internal harness is like a circuit board
My forward clutch is slipping on initial start, but only when the wheels are turned. Rebuilt trans with Sonax sure cure kit, and problem is still present (not as bad though). Any ideas?
What year is the car or van, Did you change the foward drum? Did you try overfilling the trans as a test? Gary
2004 expedition, 320k miles, replaced forward drum and pump as well
Does the sonnax kit address the solenoid regulator valve? Wheels straight no problem? Any codes?
Yes, the sonnax kit included a new regulator valve and OD servo pin with orings. Clutch does not slip when wheels are straight, only turned. Seems to only occur when vehicle is at temp; does not seem to occur when cold. No check engine lights.
When its ok cold but not hot usually points to thevalvebody, what did you find when you took the trans apart
MY STAYS ON 3RD WONT SHIFT OR NO FIRST OR 2ND
may be in limp mode, have it scanned for codes
What are your thoughts on doing the jmod to this transmission?
What modification is that?
this is what im talking about. www.americanmuscle.com/what-is-a-j-mod.html
It says removing the accumulator springs and drilling holes in the seperator plate, This will shift very firm in my opinion.
Have you looked into a Transgo shift kit?
No havent checked that one out i drive a 03 crown vic police interceptor n im looking for options either the jmod or a shift kit
I guess that would depend on how hard you want this to shift
no i did not change the epc solenoid
when it starts. and the original problem was thw drum broke and the planetarios