My 335i has 136 thousand miles on it. No oil leaks yet, but I do have some waste gate rattle when the vehicle is cold. Once it's warmed up, it goes away. I dread the day I have to change the turbos... You make it look so easy. Wish I had a friend like you to help me out. Great video.
Very helpful video, especially with the half moon wastegate bit. I'm right in the middle of doing this job. One helpful tips for getting the bearing out of the turbo, I used a socket that was just bigger then the bearing, a long bolt, nut and washer that is just big enough to catch on the bearing inside of the turbo housing, turn the top of the bolt and the bearing slowly will come out.
Much appreciated. Relieved to see you ‘only’ had to drop the subframe and one engine mount! I’d like to hear how you’re liking the Vargus compressor wheels.
Nice video man. I’ve got an E92 and (2) 65 Dart’s. Shitty part is all of them at the moment are down.😆. 11’s in a daily is damn good. I can do that in my Dart but you can’t hear yourself think and it’s uncomfortable as hell. 🤙🏼
Hello nice work indeed and get new turbines on your car. I am interesting is your vacuum lines from brake booster hard stuff or just the same material as vacuum canisters? I mean soft material or hard, I have been looking for long time to change mine as well, already have other lines changed. Thanks for nice video!
So when you get a upgrade turbine like this I suppose you need a custom tune after and OTS MHD maps won't provide you with all the power you could get? How do you know/tuner know what boost to target?
TheMidnightNarwhal I think you could run completely stock tune with these as they’re not a radical upgrade. I’m running JB4 map 3 or 7 depending on how i feel with MHD race BEF, which is an OTS tune. Im making roughly 420 wheel, but guys have made 500 + wheel on stock turbos. My limitation is fueling, as we don’t have E85 here. There’s definitely room for more power with fueling and tuning. I finally got to run 1/4 mile and went 12.30 @ 116.
@@kevinemery597 Yes same here as well in Canada E85 doesn't really exist. The more I look into it the more I think I will jut buy a rebuild kit and keep pushing MHD Stage2+ . I'm still not 100% sure if my smoking are turbos, anyways I will most likely let it smoke for a while. I'm at 70k miles 2011 335is so..
TheMidnightNarwhal Oil usage wasn’t noticeably higher. I’ve probably had to add a half a quart over the coarse of a month, and it remains that way even now. A percentage of oil is lost through the PCV system. The tell tale sign of a leaking turbo seal is while rolling up to a gradual stop and the car is suddenly surrounded in a cloud of smoke from the exhaust. Usually you don’t notice at speed or during quick stops. If you still have cats sometimes it will mask a leaking turbo seal.
@@kevinemery597 Thanks. Yeah I thought my oil was 100% smoking now even startup but it seems to have reverted back to the occasional smoke on stopping. Downpipes pull will tell for sure.
Man! Thanks for the video, I'm taking apart my 2008 535 right now. I'm only going after a rattle fix tho " im not that much of a mechanic but looove working on cars". My question is where did you get all the air and vacuum pipes?.
Those turbos looked pretty good for the mileage. You must practice high quality oil changes at the right service intervals. None of this 10k miles nonsense.
The waste gates were worn on the original turbos so spool was rather slow. I would see max 23 PSI that would taper quickly to around 21. With the new turbos and waste gates I see 25 tapering to around 23 PSI. I'm starting to see the limitations of the LPFP, and probably need to start upgrading the fuel system to take full advantage. 25 PSI seems to be the ceiling for boost w stock turbos.
Emery’s Garage maintaining 21psi past 6500 is still impressive for most ages stockers. DA plays a role as well. Lower temps see higher density so the same turboRPM might equate to higher boost vs hotter/higher climates which would see lower. In the summer I taper to 14-15psi and peak around 20. In the winter it’s about 22.5-17 at redline. 120k originals that have seen 30k miles at maxed duty cycle lol.
Awesome video! I had previously toyed around with the idea of just replacing the CHRAs in my stocks when they finally go, but thought against it. You have given me more confidence to reconsider it. A few questions: How are they holding up now, 4 months later? Did you ever dial in your tune/meth/etc. to match your previous setup? Details on the welder you used? What sort of welding experience did you have prior to? Thanks. I hope you make more videos. I really enjoyed this one!
The CHRA’s are holding up well! Have over 10K miles on them now. I have dialed the tune up and dipped into the high 7’s at over 93 MPH, but now I think I’m limited by traction, and the fuel system is being taxed. Probably time for a low pressure fuel pump upgrade soon. The welder is a Eastwood. It’s affordable and decent quality. I don’t have a tremendous amount of welding experience but had dabbled around with it a bit before doing this project. Sorry for the late reply. I don’t really check this that much.
Shitty car to work with on without a 2 post lift. God bless 4 cyl turbos. Everything is easier to work with. If your a BMW guys i suggest u never get a turbo model.
My 335i has 136 thousand miles on it. No oil leaks yet, but I do have some waste gate rattle when the vehicle is cold. Once it's warmed up, it goes away. I dread the day I have to change the turbos... You make it look so easy. Wish I had a friend like you to help me out. Great video.
BRAVO!! Thank you for taking the time to post this..The angle iron on the ram for safety was very smart.
Very helpful video, especially with the half moon wastegate bit.
I'm right in the middle of doing this job.
One helpful tips for getting the bearing out of the turbo, I used a socket that was just bigger then the bearing, a long bolt, nut and washer that is just big enough to catch on the bearing inside of the turbo housing, turn the top of the bolt and the bearing slowly will come out.
E85Johnson Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Much appreciated. Relieved to see you ‘only’ had to drop the subframe and one engine mount! I’d like to hear how you’re liking the Vargus compressor wheels.
So far I'm having good luck with the Vargas wheels. About 7k miles on em now.
Thanks for the detailed video, just did the same on my old turbos currently have about 1k miles on them running strong and no smoke or rattles! 😎
Thanks!
8.07 @ 92.26 mph ,1/8 mile of course.
Do you still have then on the car ?? How did they work out ??
"There goes the turbos...holy crap!" Lol. You are the man! Doing that job means you've arrived.
Thanks for the best diy video. Keep it up.
Nice video. I really enjoyed it.
What. A. Job. Wow, nice work!
Thanks for the upload. I learned stuff I didn't know. Your car runs great and boost looks to hold high much better.
That's a clean ride you've got there, care to do a walk around and spec rundown?
Great video!
Nice safety in mind
hi great diy job , whats that display in the console area ?
Nice video man. I’ve got an E92 and (2) 65 Dart’s. Shitty part is all of them at the moment are down.😆. 11’s in a daily is damn good. I can do that in my Dart but you can’t hear yourself think and it’s uncomfortable as hell. 🤙🏼
Rick Sokol gotta love that American muscle though!
Hello nice work indeed and get new turbines on your car. I am interesting is your vacuum lines from brake booster hard stuff or just the same material as vacuum canisters? I mean soft material or hard, I have been looking for long time to change mine as well, already have other lines changed. Thanks for nice video!
How did you mount your tablet to your dash??
So when you get a upgrade turbine like this I suppose you need a custom tune after and OTS MHD maps won't provide you with all the power you could get? How do you know/tuner know what boost to target?
TheMidnightNarwhal I think you could run completely stock tune with these as they’re not a radical upgrade.
I’m running JB4 map 3 or 7 depending on how i feel with MHD race BEF, which is an OTS tune. Im making roughly 420 wheel, but guys have made 500 + wheel on stock turbos.
My limitation is fueling, as we don’t have E85 here. There’s definitely room for more power with fueling and tuning.
I finally got to run 1/4 mile and went 12.30 @ 116.
@@kevinemery597 Yes same here as well in Canada E85 doesn't really exist. The more I look into it the more I think I will jut buy a rebuild kit and keep pushing MHD Stage2+ . I'm still not 100% sure if my smoking are turbos, anyways I will most likely let it smoke for a while. I'm at 70k miles 2011 335is so..
@@kevinemery597 When you were burning oil due to oil leak how much oil did you use per X ammount of milleagE?
TheMidnightNarwhal Oil usage wasn’t noticeably higher. I’ve probably had to add a half a quart over the coarse of a month, and it remains that way even now. A percentage of oil is lost through the PCV system.
The tell tale sign of a leaking turbo seal is while rolling up to a gradual stop and the car is suddenly surrounded in a cloud of smoke from the exhaust. Usually you don’t notice at speed or during quick stops. If you still have cats sometimes it will mask a leaking turbo seal.
@@kevinemery597 Thanks. Yeah I thought my oil was 100% smoking now even startup but it seems to have reverted back to the occasional smoke on stopping. Downpipes pull will tell for sure.
Cool DIY all the way
Man! Thanks for the video, I'm taking apart my 2008 535 right now. I'm only going after a rattle fix tho " im not that much of a mechanic but looove working on cars". My question is where did you get all the air and vacuum pipes?.
Super good video
About how long did it take u to drop the frame
Thanks for the video. How are the CHRA's holding up? Im looking at doing the same
How long do the CHRAs lasted you ?
Hey how did these CHRA work out ?? It has been a few years since the posting of this video.
They’re still great! No issues.
I noticed both turn signal lights come on when you need to shift. Is that a bimmer standard or did you program that into it?
Evelyn Edwin that’s a feature of the JB4 tune. Check out Burger tuning for more info.
Hey where did you get those vac lines?
Verocious motor sports. They have tons of silicone hose products.
Those turbos looked pretty good for the mileage. You must practice high quality oil changes at the right service intervals. None of this 10k miles nonsense.
Grat video! what kind of pin the you used to hold the bushing in? ive seen nails put into them, but what did you used?
Luis Urrutia i used a nail also.
is the spool time different now with new turbos
Spool seems a little quicker.
Can I ask where you ordered the wastegate repair kit from?
Ben Mendez Vargas
Nice video, good job
What was the taper difference from before to after?
The waste gates were worn on the original turbos so spool was rather slow. I would see max 23 PSI that would taper quickly to around 21. With the new turbos and waste gates I see 25 tapering to around 23 PSI. I'm starting to see the limitations of the LPFP, and probably need to start upgrading the fuel system to take full advantage. 25 PSI seems to be the ceiling for boost w stock turbos.
Emery’s Garage maintaining 21psi past 6500 is still impressive for most ages stockers. DA plays a role as well. Lower temps see higher density so the same turboRPM might equate to higher boost vs hotter/higher climates which would see lower. In the summer I taper to 14-15psi and peak around 20. In the winter it’s about 22.5-17 at redline. 120k originals that have seen 30k miles at maxed duty cycle lol.
Awesome video! I had previously toyed around with the idea of just replacing the CHRAs in my stocks when they finally go, but thought against it. You have given me more confidence to reconsider it. A few questions:
How are they holding up now, 4 months later?
Did you ever dial in your tune/meth/etc. to match your previous setup?
Details on the welder you used? What sort of welding experience did you have prior to?
Thanks. I hope you make more videos. I really enjoyed this one!
The CHRA’s are holding up well! Have over 10K miles on them now.
I have dialed the tune up and dipped into the high 7’s at over 93 MPH, but now I think I’m limited by traction, and the fuel system is being taxed. Probably time for a low pressure fuel pump upgrade soon.
The welder is a Eastwood. It’s affordable and decent quality. I don’t have a tremendous amount of welding experience but had dabbled around with it a bit before doing this project.
Sorry for the late reply. I don’t really check this that much.
Can you list everything you bought and from where with website links? I'm think about doing the exact same thing. Nice Vid!
Vargasturbo.com for the CHRA's and install kit. ECSTUNING.COM for the wastgate actuators
can you run this turbo repair on all stock mapping?
You could.
What app are you running while you are doing your initial pulls?
JB4 mobil app
Wait, how much faster did it feel?
The car feels quicker and spools a little faster than stock. Keeping up with SRT8's at the track.
@@kevinemery597 so maybe I should invest in a upgraded turbo swapp??
@@beamerandthebeast3979 turbo labs of America bro.
What option did you choose?
These were stock replacements with a billet compressor wheel upgrade.
Quick question man , I’m replacing my chras on my stock turbos, does the stock turbos have a seal/gasket in between the chra and compressor housing ?
gatiyo lugo yes
How long did the turbo removal and install take you?
It took about 4 days with some pretty late nights.
Fucking nightmare to work on I can't believe I bought one one these cars
Another question: What made you decide not to go with the "Stage 1" option for the CHRA?
I’m waiting to wear this engine out since it’s high mileage. Once that happens I’ll get a low mile replacement and go top mount single turbo.
Seems easier to just pull the motor honestly.
In all honesty it wouldn’t be to much more work just to do so.
Underwear as a rag lol
Shitty car to work with on without a 2 post lift. God bless 4 cyl turbos. Everything is easier to work with. If your a BMW guys i suggest u never get a turbo model.
You should have gone with a single tubro and saved money.
The single turbo kits for the N54 will all cost you $4k+. No saving money there, when Stage 1 VTT CHRA assemblies are ~$1400 depending on options.
Single turbo, and saving money do not belong in the same sentence. Also, "never get a turbo" said no one EVER!
I know right! Turbos ftw!
@@mrmax1984 hell yeah
Great video!
how did they hold up?