@@MotoMirius Hello David, I think you missed my point. Your video was good, it showed two ways of changing bearings. What I said was never hit a new bearing with hammer, always use something, for example the bearing you took to use for drifting. You could hit the bearing and damage it which would then damage the hub. Also never hit the seal with hammer, if you can't push it in with finger then something is wrong. Thanks for taking the tome to make the video by the way.
Hi Paul. Thanks for the clarification. This is one of those things that there are endless arguments about. Since I’ve seen engineers disagree, I’m not going I’m not going there, hence my previous reply. As far as I understand that side of the argument, you should never hit a bearing with anything, including a drift, because even drifts can be misplaced. And when that happens, and it does, you can create more damage than would be created by the curved face of a hammer. In my experience, by far the most important thing is to insert the bearing squarely. If you get that right, the worst you can do is to damage the bearing, and that is a relatively minor cost to rectify. Skäl. David
nice video, this is the go-to-place for bandit related questions, pro tip for the future, keep the new bearings in the freezer, and give the wheel a touch with the flame gun before assembly, and they are likely to just fall right in:)
@@MotoMirius well, almost all the tight and precicely machined bearings in the engines we build at work are in fact either frozen or heated to fit:P I'd show you a lot of examples from the factory in Bergen, but alas I'm not allowed to photograph or film at site:P but it is a very typical and professionally valid way of mounting bearings, but seing that these bearings are a reasonable press-fit the need for heat or very cold parts isn't a neccesity, merely a practicality thing if you would like parts that give up less of a fight. cheers anyway:P
@@mortenbakke2810 When making videos, I tend to follow factory manual guidance, so to be more precise, I've yet to see a professional bike mechanic use heat. I have used cold and heat - it takes more time and effort to do - I can remove and fit bearings in less time than it takes to walk to and from the freezer. I would guess in a factory environment where you have bearings in bulk it is quicker to do them this way.
Hi Dave, Great clear video and subscribed. Just started to ride last year after 17 years and looking to self service the bike too. What is the bearing puller you are using. Would appreciate a link to it as well in your description so it can help any future enthusiast .
Thanks Robert. It's a generic blind puller set - links go out of date very quickly for these type of tools but a quick search will reveal lots of options and it's tool that will last years with a diverse range of uses! Skäl David
Hi David, thanks a million for posting these videos. They're very helpful specially to someone like me. I'm a total newbie to biking, I just bought my first bike the Suzuki GSF 650 S K5 and I've much to learn. When I bought the bike the fella selling it said that there is a problem with it's battery and it needs to be replaced. I was hoping you or anyone reading the comments could recommend a good battery for this bike?
Thanks and nice choice of bike! So long as you stay away from anything cheap and stick to a main recognised brand - such as the original Yuasa and you get one to fit then you should be fine. If you want Lithium then I can't recommend and so far I've never tried one although people love them because they are smaller and lighter - but I notice the bike manufacturers don't seem too keen on using them so I'm assuming they know more than me about reliability and service life. Wemoto www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gsf_650_sk5_bandit/05 for example sell Yuasa, Kyoto and Motobatt. Never used Kyoto but I'm assuming they are OK, never had any issues with Motobatt - supposedly better at starting than a standard battery - sealed gel type. Good luck!
@@MotoMirius Thanks a million David, that was exactly what I was looking for. I went for a Yuasa. I figured if it's good enough for the manufacturer then it's good enough for me. I have all the mechanical know how of an Amoeba but managed to get it sorted. The bike took a little bit to get started (think I flooded the starter) but got her going in the end. Unfortunately I have to renew my licence so can't ride it legally for a while yet coz Covid has delayed things here a bit here. The bike is now living in my mates parents garage about two hours drive from where I live until I can get the licence sorted. I was able to ride it aroubd their car park though. My mate had a Bandit back in the end of the 90's and I wanted one of my own since then. Thanks again for your help, I'll probably have more questions over time. Liked and subscribed
Hey David. What kind of tool is that for pulling out the bearings? The tool you use at time 03:40? If possible please send me a link. Thanks a lot ... Ralf
Hi pal very new to the bandit world just wondering if you could help I’m not sure wether i have abs brake’s or not its a K6 650 early 2007 model oil cooled, Thanks.
I do have a question though. Am i correct in thinking that the near side bearing should be completely set up against the inner ledge on the hub but the offside bearing should only be tapped down until it lightly touches the spacer?
When the bearings are seated the spacer is also seated against the inner race - it is sized to be the same length as the distance between the bearing seats.
It's one of those ever running debates. Yamaha for example, I think it's Yamaha, specify that torques are lubricated, others don't specify. The torques are also based on new threads in the part and the bolt - so an old part will probably be undertorqued because of the friction of corrosion etc is what will trigger the wrench not stretch on the bolt. This is an older video, so I tend now to torque dry and try to tap the threads - but that in itself is an area of error as it can make the fitting looser.
I always recommend that you do what you are comfortable with. I know engineers who are vastly more experienced and qualified than me who use a steel hammer. So long as you are hitting the fixed side of the bearing and there is equal pressure then there is no issue. If you hit the unsupported side or the bearing itself then you will risk damage to the bearing regardless of what you hit it with.
Hi pal very new to the bandit world just wondering if you could help I’m not sure wether i have abs brake’s or not its a K6 650 early 2007 model oil cooled, Thanks.
No problem, almost (because different markets etc can be different) certainly - but you can check to see if it has an ABS ring fitted inside the brake disk. You can also check where the brake lines run - if they run straight to the brakes without disappearing under the tank then you don't have ABS - just because it was made with ABS doesn't mean they haven't been bypassed.
Nice video, however, I would never hit a new bearing with a hammer , always use a drift like the socket.
It’s why I show opinions. Drifts are good but if you are inexperienced then a press tool is the safest option. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius Hello David, I think you missed my point. Your video was good, it showed two ways of changing bearings. What I said was never hit a new bearing with hammer, always use something, for example the bearing you took to use for drifting. You could hit the bearing and damage it which would then damage the hub. Also never hit the seal with hammer, if you can't push it in with finger then something is wrong. Thanks for taking the tome to make the video by the way.
Hi Paul. Thanks for the clarification. This is one of those things that there are endless arguments about. Since I’ve seen engineers disagree, I’m not going I’m not going there, hence my previous reply.
As far as I understand that side of the argument, you should never hit a bearing with anything, including a drift, because even drifts can be misplaced. And when that happens, and it does, you can create more damage than would be created by the curved face of a hammer.
In my experience, by far the most important thing is to insert the bearing squarely. If you get that right, the worst you can do is to damage the bearing, and that is a relatively minor cost to rectify. Skäl. David
nice video, this is the go-to-place for bandit related questions, pro tip for the future, keep the new bearings in the freezer, and give the wheel a touch with the flame gun before assembly, and they are likely to just fall right in:)
Thanks. Ah the old freezer trick heat trick. Yes, it works but not a pro tip as I've never met any professional who does it that way ;)
@@MotoMirius well, almost all the tight and precicely machined bearings in the engines we build at work are in fact either frozen or heated to fit:P I'd show you a lot of examples from the factory in Bergen, but alas I'm not allowed to photograph or film at site:P but it is a very typical and professionally valid way of mounting bearings, but seing that these bearings are a reasonable press-fit the need for heat or very cold parts isn't a neccesity, merely a practicality thing if you would like parts that give up less of a fight. cheers anyway:P
@@mortenbakke2810 When making videos, I tend to follow factory manual guidance, so to be more precise, I've yet to see a professional bike mechanic use heat. I have used cold and heat - it takes more time and effort to do - I can remove and fit bearings in less time than it takes to walk to and from the freezer. I would guess in a factory environment where you have bearings in bulk it is quicker to do them this way.
Easy stuff that anyone can do. Good to show various options for those who don’t know 👍🏻
Cheers Dave. Great to hear from you as ever. Hope you are keeping well. Skäl. David
Hi Dave, Great clear video and subscribed. Just started to ride last year after 17 years and looking to self service the bike too. What is the bearing puller you are using. Would appreciate a link to it as well in your description so it can help any future enthusiast .
Thanks Robert. It's a generic blind puller set - links go out of date very quickly for these type of tools but a quick search will reveal lots of options and it's tool that will last years with a diverse range of uses! Skäl David
Hi David, thanks a million for posting these videos. They're very helpful specially to someone like me. I'm a total newbie to biking, I just bought my first bike the Suzuki GSF 650 S K5 and I've much to learn. When I bought the bike the fella selling it said that there is a problem with it's battery and it needs to be replaced. I was hoping you or anyone reading the comments could recommend a good battery for this bike?
Thanks and nice choice of bike! So long as you stay away from anything cheap and stick to a main recognised brand - such as the original Yuasa and you get one to fit then you should be fine. If you want Lithium then I can't recommend and so far I've never tried one although people love them because they are smaller and lighter - but I notice the bike manufacturers don't seem too keen on using them so I'm assuming they know more than me about reliability and service life. Wemoto www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gsf_650_sk5_bandit/05 for example sell Yuasa, Kyoto and Motobatt. Never used Kyoto but I'm assuming they are OK, never had any issues with Motobatt - supposedly better at starting than a standard battery - sealed gel type. Good luck!
@@MotoMirius Thanks a million David, that was exactly what I was looking for. I went for a Yuasa. I figured if it's good enough for the manufacturer then it's good enough for me.
I have all the mechanical know how of an Amoeba but managed to get it sorted. The bike took a little bit to get started (think I flooded the starter) but got her going in the end.
Unfortunately I have to renew my licence so can't ride it legally for a while yet coz Covid has delayed things here a bit here. The bike is now living in my mates parents garage about two hours drive from where I live until I can get the licence sorted. I was able to ride it aroubd their car park though.
My mate had a Bandit back in the end of the 90's and I wanted one of my own since then.
Thanks again for your help, I'll probably have more questions over time. Liked and subscribed
@@mckiernan5417 Good luck with getting it back on the road!
Hey David. What kind of tool is that for pulling out the bearings? The tool you use at time 03:40? If possible please send me a link. Thanks a lot ... Ralf
It's a blind bearing puller. You can find them online - and adjust for your wallet - there are some very expensive professional versions.
Top man thanks for ur up loads 👌
Hi pal very new to the bandit world just wondering if you could help I’m not sure wether i have abs brake’s or not its a K6 650 early 2007 model oil cooled, Thanks.
I do have a question though. Am i correct in thinking that the near side bearing should be completely set up against the inner ledge on the hub but the offside bearing should only be tapped down until it lightly touches the spacer?
When the bearings are seated the spacer is also seated against the inner race - it is sized to be the same length as the distance between the bearing seats.
I was always taught if I was torqueing any bolts not to have any lubricant (ie grease) as the torque settings will be out
It's one of those ever running debates. Yamaha for example, I think it's Yamaha, specify that torques are lubricated, others don't specify. The torques are also based on new threads in the part and the bolt - so an old part will probably be undertorqued because of the friction of corrosion etc is what will trigger the wrench not stretch on the bolt. This is an older video, so I tend now to torque dry and try to tap the threads - but that in itself is an area of error as it can make the fitting looser.
Will bad bearings cause more vibration on handlebars?
It can yes. When bearings fail it can escalate quite quickly so it's important and simple enough to replace them.
I wouldn't personally hit bearing with a metal hammer.
I always recommend that you do what you are comfortable with. I know engineers who are vastly more experienced and qualified than me who use a steel hammer. So long as you are hitting the fixed side of the bearing and there is equal pressure then there is no issue. If you hit the unsupported side or the bearing itself then you will risk damage to the bearing regardless of what you hit it with.
Hi pal very new to the bandit world just wondering if you could help I’m not sure wether i have abs brake’s or not its a K6 650 early 2007 model oil cooled, Thanks.
No problem, almost (because different markets etc can be different) certainly - but you can check to see if it has an ABS ring fitted inside the brake disk. You can also check where the brake lines run - if they run straight to the brakes without disappearing under the tank then you don't have ABS - just because it was made with ABS doesn't mean they haven't been bypassed.