Project #8 - Custom Built Bank Mower
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- Опубликовано: 3 янв 2017
- In this video, I demonstrate how I designed and built a custom attachment for my Kubota BX25 tractor for mowing steep angled banks.
Check out my update video where I show some modifications I made to the bank mower 2 years later:
• Project #21 - Bank Mow...
Impressive! I wonder how a couple of old chopped up zero turn mowers would work? Remove the back hydro section and use one to power the deck and the other just for the rear casters. A 50" cut would be awesome! Sorry if my view doesn't match my wording...I'm a visionary 3d tech, not a design engineer. 😉
I am impressed. Oh how I could use one of these. I have the same problem on my lawn. I was not surprised when you said you are an engineer. That is a pretty advanced piece of DIY.
Fantastic idea and I really appreciate all the time you spent explaining the design-build. Thanks and great job!
Thank you! Glad some people are finding it useful/interesting!
Very impressive design work, fabrication skills and overall quality! Nicely done!
Thank you!
Superb job. I too have a 300 foot area in front of my land that has a steep grade and it's a nightmare. I dread having to get a weed wacker or some other tool to remove the growth. Note: I said growth, not grass. I considered filling in the embankment to create a more level mowing area but several options come to mind. I haven't decided yet, and money is a key factor. I admire your thorough work and Kudos for your excellent explanation, throughout.
I'm 13 and I mow steeper than that
Thank you for the positive comments!
I could see this becoming one of my favourite/go-to channels here on U tube when it comes to designing and building new 'gadgets' if you are so inclined to produce a bunch. You have a great and successful U tube career ahead of you if you want I'm sure. Many thanks! 👍👍
Thank you for the positive comments!
I have the same ditch / hill you have and an in the see what others have done phase, guess I'm done looking now time to start building! Thanks for the video!
That is AWESOME! I recently escaped the asylum known as California and skedaddled to Kentucky. My new home here includes a half-acre pond. I was going to try mowing the edges by backing up with a bush hog - over and over and over... I quickly realized that was a waste of time and a little worrisome. I wouldn't want to drop a tire or two over the edge. Not all of my pond edges are steep, but there are enough to be a concern. I'm not an IE (ignoramus engineer), so I didn't need any education to tell me that your system would be faster than mine. I'm also not a design engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once. In reality, I am an ME (magnificent, uh, I mean manufacturing engineer). Designing isn't my first nature, but I'm OK at it. Like you, I try to get all of the preliminary iterations drawn on paper. I also like to use wood as a temporary mockup.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!
Vance, from one engineer to another: Great Job Man!!! A very thoroughly thought out design and implementation to solve the problem. Also a very good video and explanation!! Nicely done!!!! If the light weight mower deck begins to show signs of stress, you may want to add some reinforcement plates at each attachment points (top and bottom). I enjoyed the video!!
Thanks!
good concept for very short and steep pond banks, would like to put it to the test!
Thanks for showing this-brilliant.Iam also an engineer and great also showing how went about designing; most people don't realise all that is involved as items often look simple once built.An idea re the boom is to make a vertical standoff in the middle of the boom ie about 1-2 ft high out of thick flat plate and attach wire cable to eyes either side of this and down to another set of eyes close to the ends of the boom complete with turnbuckles.Hope I have explained it clearly-similar to bracing on some ship masts, this has the advantage that is very strong and all so important is that is light. Once again thankyou.
Thanks! Good idea. I appreciate the positive comment!
Just subscribed to your channel! Great ideas and thanks for sharing the "do" and "don't". I have 600 foot bank to maintain with trimmer... I know what you mean by "pain"! Thanks for sharing this with us!
Thanks for subscribing! And I do appreciate the positive comments!
Thank you for very interesting and informative video. I really enjoyed it. Don’t pay too much attention to the negative comments. I am sure you are considering improvements for your original design. Remember that engineers never make mistakes they change their plan. You are an engineer. Thanks again and 😉
Great idea. If you weld a piece of tube back from the tow hitch end and then to about 3/4 of the way along the arm supporting the cutter, making a triangle shape, it should cut out all the bend and drag on it. Good job.
Thanks!
That was an awesome video! Well documented and the design well thought out.
(I'm sure you already came up with something to control the radial flex in the long arm to make it more uniform while changing directions...but if not, maybe something that attached to the front of the mower arm to the front of the tractor itself to keep it from swinging back while going forward. Maybe even rope or something that wouldn't wreck the mower if it came loose?).
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Time well spent watching it.
Thanks!
I love it! Solved a problem. THIS is what makes us great.
Very nice job, you put a lot of thought into that!
Thanks!
Clever guy. Wish I could do stuff like that. Well done.
Thank you!
Vance good job and video enjoyed,it is amazing what people can come up with .
Thanks! I appreciate the positive comment!
Nice! I like your design. I have the same problem with a bank on the side of the road.
Thank you!
Man you put some thought into this, nice.
Thanks!
Excellent idea and workmenship!
Thank you!
some people look at an Idea and say why just buy one and then there is the guy that says why not just build one and saves time and money!
Nice idea. Cool build. Thanks. Well.... NOW you need a 50 inch deck to GET SOME WORK DONE.
Very true. It takes a lot of passes with that little mowing deck!
I like that contraption you built for that walk behind mower. However, that IC engine won't last long mowing those steep ditches. It will have problems lubricating the piston and crankshaft. I may try that, but I will remove the IC engine and replace it with a hydraulic motor driven by the tractor hydraulics.
I had the same concerns. I looked into a hydraulic motor and my tractor didn't have the power to drive an accessory motor at the speed needed for running mowing blades.
I settled on using this engine until it failed, and then my plan was to switch to a 2-cycle Lawn Boy mower or equivalent.
I've been running this thing hard for 9 years now and it hasn't failed yet! I guess they're more durable than we thought!
Need something like this for pond bank when water gets low. On another forum a member suggested always having the spark plug uphill so the oil will not pool under the piston and ruin the engine. You could easily spin yours 90 degrees. Got good ideas from your video Thanks.
I love it when it cut
Really great. I've been wanting to build a triple mower that I could pull or side mount to a truck to mow fields instead if using a tractor. Another Idea is utilising drive shaft and a belt system in place instead of PTO.
Thank you! Good luck with your project!
That's an interesting concept
Nice work mate
Thank you!
Love it, good job.
Nice job man !
Thank you!
I Think they still sell the hover mower we used them on golf courses ,2 stroke or a weedeater is what we allways used on the golf course ,they are still popular on them even over water ,but hey nice set up you got there too,the hover mower back in the day we could not keep them running was down fall of them an there cost of $600.00 too
If you want to make stem type casters you can start with farm type hitch pins which are sold in many different sizes.
Someone else here mentioned about discharging into the road; yes that is illegal. Just use the rear discharge. Since the unit rolls, I see no need to lift it in the air. I saw plenty stress on that boom. Good job.
Yes, you are exactly right! I made an update video which you probably didn't see. I put the link below; check it out. It includes updates that I did to the design, addressing all those concerns! Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/iSJFCd_5gNk/видео.html
LOL i know a lot of them photos i have been looking at them the last 2 or 3 years was going to make 1 for our old big wheelhorse or small skidsteer but now have the kioti and the wount to put one on the backhoe now ! LOL but nice job looks great !
Thanks!
Great Design and Workmanship! Liked!! Everything is overbuilt (in a good way) except the lift/control arm. (as you have stated) I would shorten the arm if possible. But either way take a 1/2 inch cold rolled steel rod (even rebar may work) and create some diagonal braces off your frame at the tractor out 1/2 way or more toward the mower. And weld them right onto the square lift arm. I think that would stiffen it up for you. This will also (as you probably know) make it easier to be accurate with your cutting lines.
Thank you for the positive comments, and ideas! I appreciate it!
Genius bro!!!
Thanks!
very good job !
Thanks!
Good video, I liked the explanation of you thought process.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Great work! As a fellow engineer, I appreciate the details of your work. Looking to build a pull behind myself. I’ll need to fabricate the frame around a 20 hp motor, 48” deck, electric engagement, and a set of four front lawn tractor wheels. Let me know if you have any “competitive analysis” of pull behinds. Thanks for the work.
Nice work. Try to make the boom arm more rigid adding a support beam of some sort. And threepoint thread tensioners instead of the chains at the hitch
. I think this would give much more control and ease of use forward or backwards. Or run a cylinder cutter from the tracter hydrolics or bigger cutting deck. Old tracter deck with a top mounted motor.
Thanks for the feedback! I actually don't ever use the arm to lift it anymore. Initially, I thought this would be how it worked, but I've used it for 2 years now, and I never lift it, I just tow it along on its own wheels, and it works best that way.
Good video. I have a larger tractor and 7 ft sickle bar mower, but with the drought here in GA my pond is so low that 7 ft is not enough cut. Was thinking about something like you made might work? I will use a 2 stroke Lawn Boy for mine as it will be VERY tilted in some places along the dam. Also thanks for the heads up on E Rigging. Better prices than McMaster Carr.
Thanks! Good luck with your project! Good move on the Lawn Boy. I didn't know that the're were 2-cycle push mowers when I initially built this, so when my mower dies, I will be replacing it with a Lawn Boy 2-cycle.
Excellent design. I would of used a larger size tubing for the long extension arm . Looked like it flexed when you lifted.
Thank you! It did flex; I should have made it larger. In practice, however, I never lift it. I've used it for 2 summers now, and I don't even connect the chains anymore. I just tow it alongside and it works great.
your long piece of square tubing that at an angle needs reinforcing or it will break from fatigue.
1 suggestion. You need one set of wheels straight or locked. I had a commercial version of that and it came around on me towing behind my quad. I found out the hard way that the rear wheels need to be locked straight. Otherwise great idea.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm thinking that with the rigid connecting arm, that shouldn't be a problem. Haven't had any issues so far.
Vance's How-To Video Library: after watching your video. I now understand why you had 4 swivel wheels. Until I saw that the hitch was mounted solid. Great idea to mow the hillside.
Instead of McMaster Carr, check out MSC Direct. 10 times the product line, much lower cost, overnight shipping at no extra charge.
Cool! I will check that out. Thanks!
Nice!
great idea though buddy you should try to get some of the play out so its good forward n backwards love it though!!!
Since the arm is not at right angles to the tractor, I doubt if it is possible to completely remove the forward/backward play.
Could you upload the solidworks drawings for the mower?
I guess you love to build, it looks great. seems more work than just weed waking it once every few months. Did you look at just using a sickle bar mower? My grandfather did all his banks with a sickle bar on his 1940s Oliver tractor. I want the lift function you have to sharpen my push mower blades!
Yea, I enjoy designing and building this kind of stuff. Its fun for me. I priced a sickle bar mower and I think it was north of $3K for a new one. And finding a used one to fit a small tractor like mine is nearly impossible.
I think it should be on the left side of tractor and this should help with the fuel tank level.
Good idea. Thanks!
I know this is old but you could just spin the motor 180° so it’s “backwards”
Would you be willing to share your Solidworks files? Or have you uploaded them to GrabCad or Thingaverse?
hi, the mower you are using has an engine that is lubricated by splash and do not last long when used in hills or sharp angles. you may want to replace it with a 2 stroke mower like a lawn boy that is lubricated with mixed gas. I hope this works for you, good luck.
That's a good idea. I didn't realize the Lawn Boy mowers were 2-cycle. I did find a technical article published by Briggs and Stratton saying that the engine should work fine to 30 degrees. Here is the link:
www.briggsandstratton.com/lam/pt/support/faqs/angle-of-engine-operation
I was a little surprised when they said that carburetor function usually dictates the maximum operation angle. Like you, I always thought it was the splash lubrication. I also read somewhere that being angled to one side is better than the other, due to the oil reservoir arrangement. Although I do exceed 30 degrees when I use it, its for a few really short periods of 60 seconds or so. We'll see how long this one lasts. When it dies, I might look for a Lawn Boy.
Fantastic video! Much better than a Sat. AM hunting & fishing show! I'm planning to build a more compact version, to mow 4'-5' up from the highway side-ditch. Opposite from your situation, I must mow from the top of the bank, reaching downhill from the tractor or, as I intend, a 61" ZTR mower. The arm will not need to be as long as yours. Hydraulic lift capability will not be be available. Why did you elect to support the small mower from the side instead of simply pulling it from the front?
I actually rarely use the hydraulic lift functionality. For the most part, you just tow it and it rides up and along the hill. I thought the side mount would be more balanced. I also learned that you can much more accurately control it in reverse, which would be harder if it was towed from the front.
I think it would be better if you mounted it on the front. You would have better control over your mower.
I like the idea but turn the mower 90 degrees so it discharges out the back and if you do design a heavier arm I would suggest a brake a way so if you hit something with the mower it don't bend the arm. Most side mowers have ball in a clamp or something to pop out to prevent damage.That sure looks more fun than a weedeater.
Thanks for the feedback! I did end up re-configuring it to discharge away from the street. I do like the idea of a break-away to keep from damaging something. I need to work on that!
Nice idea but I'd be concerned about the strength of the arm there's a bit of bending in it.
You are absolutely correct. I didn't do any analysis on the design of that arm, and as a result, it does flex considerably, and has taken a very slight permanent bow. I have found out that I rarely actually lift the mower up, however. Usually I just tow it around and drive it up the slopes. If I do another design iteration of this thing, I will definitely beef up that arm and run an FEA on it to make sure its strong enough. Thanks for the comment!
Yes, I agree here as well. Since you are talking about a tractor here, you can beef up that bar by quite a bit. Or you could even put an "I" beam instead of s square tube to give some extra strength.
Another thing you could try is instead of having 1 arm, use 2 arms. You've mounted the arm in the center of the hitching area. If you put one arm at each latching on the 3-point and then join them at the mower, you'd have an enormous amount of improvement in control. Remember, triangles are the masters of structural engineering ;)
Great design.
Welding an I beam as a strongback on the bottom side of that square tubing would greatly increase the strength.
Also, the pivot point on the mower should be moved slightly so the mower is better balanced fore/aft.
buggsy5
,
Bbba:-).
Koo:-P.
Great video and design! I have the same problem with 2000' of bank along a road. I discovered your video as part of my "competitive analysis". Because my Kubota has a front end loader, I'm considering connecting my boom to the front end loader bucket instead of the 3pt hitch. I'm considering using chains to connect the mower to the boom. I think they would provide freedom of movement without as many parts. I'm an EE not an ME so I would really appreciate your thoughts on these mods.
When I initially designed this, I thought I would need the ability to raise the mower. In practice you don't need to. You can just tow it, and let it ride up as needed. So you need the linkage to let it ride up and down, but you don't need to raise it with hydraulics. I would not attach it to the front end loader. I would tow it like I did. Be sure to check out my follow up video I did here:
ruclips.net/video/iSJFCd_5gNk/видео.html
@@VancesHowTo Thanks for your reply and second video. Not having to lift the mower simplifies things a lot.
Thats interesting. You could have just got a swisher or an old Haban pull behind you could do that entire hill in one pass.
Thanks! I think what I built is pretty much a cheap version of one of those pull-behind mowers.
The boom should have been solid stock or at least 1 1/2" heavy gauge square tubing. Maybe even round stock or 'black pipe' , But, very nice anyway!
It is marginally heavy enough - plenty strong if the attachment is never lifted.
However, a fairly narrow strongback welded to the bottom side would greatly reduce any flexing - although it could be argued that some flexing is desirable.
Huskavarna makes a remote control multi tier mower for slopes.Used mainly along highway’s. My friend used to swing a normal mower from ropes. He then went to buying a hover mower. . What you are or have designed is hot. Tks
Thanks!
Nice job it's ashamed you couldn't get the state to bring in some good soil to take the angle down so you could mow it!
Thank you!
Looks good but the engine on the bank mower won't oil correctly at the angle it's needed will it?
I was concerned about this from the beginning. I did find a technical article published by Briggs and Stratton saying that the engine should work fine to 30 degrees. Here is the link:
www.briggsandstratton.com/lam/pt/support/faqs/angle-of-engine-operation
I was a little surprised when they said that carburetor function usually dictates the maximum operation angle. Like you, I always thought it was the splash lubrication. I also read somewhere that being angled to one side is better than the other, due to the oil reservoir arrangement. Although I do exceed 30 degrees when I use it, its for a few really short periods of 60 seconds or so. We'll see how long this one lasts. I'm on my 2nd summer of mowing with it and its still working great. When it dies, I might look for a Lawn Boy. Their mowers are 2-cycle, and can tilt more.
Maybe it'll last longer than we think!
that's pretty cool, do you get a pain in the neck looking over your shoulder? If you have a bucket for the tractor the mower could be mounted to that so it would be in front of you. Just a thought, I really like what you have done.
Luckily, there's not a large area when I have to use it. It would be annoying looking back the whole time if you had to do it for a long time.
Nice concept nice work . I have one question concerning the Motor. Is it a 2 strokes motor or a 4 strokes motor knowing that a 4 strokes motor can not work in such an angle considering oil motor level 2 strokes machine are hard to find now. Did you face that problem?
André
Thank you! The push mower motor is a 4-stroke, and has been going strong for 4 years with no issues at all. I was concerned about this as well, but it hasn't been an issue for my slope.
900 foot wide property! How deep is it?
12.5 acres total. Its odd shaped, so probably 1000 ft at the deepest point.
Well done, and interesting project. Have you considered putting a go cart flag on it considering how close you're working to a road that seemed moderately busy?
I did not think of that. That's a good idea! Thanks!
This works, but it’s hilarious from a practical standpoint.
I'm curious why you would think that. Why do you think its hilarious? I used it all last summer, and it worked beautifully. Its so much easier than mowing that bank with my weed trimmer.
Should have used a 2-cycle engine mower. No oiling issues.
Yes, I agree. Once this one dies, I plan on finding a Lawn Boy, which I understand makes 2-cycle push mowers.
Cool but i would have dirt dumped there and made a less steep bank for me to mow with the tractor.
besides the bending of the boom (already mentioned). I wonder if you considered the direction of the discharge chute? can you move it to face aft and inboard?
The mower could be swapped around to discharge cur grass inwards. You could also swap the arm to extend out on the left side of the tractor instead of the right side. It seems to be working okay the way I have it set up, so I've left it the same as shown in the video.
thanks, I was only addressing safety concerns with airborne rock and debris.
Yes I understand. I'm pretty paranoid about shooting a rock into the street where there can be traffic. Now that you mention it, I might try swapping it for that reason.
Vance's How-To Video Library Vance, you may wish to make this discharge direction change a priority as in many areas it is against the law to discharge grass toward a street/roadway. The only prove they need to ticket/fine the property owner is grass clippings on the road. Just some food for thought. This is in addition to it being very unsafe.
Great job for a much needed fix by many for steep ditches or pond banks.
Very good point. At least one other person also brought this up. In my area, its not a big deal legally, but it is a safety concern. I am actually planning on re-configuring it to discharge the other way; I just haven't done it yet.
guaranteed to break, the boom is already bending.
You are absolutely correct. I didn't do any analysis on the design of that arm, and as a result, it does flex considerably, and has taken a very slight permanent bow. I have found out that I NEVER actually lift the mower up, however. In fact, I don't even hook up the lift chains any more. I just tow it around and drive it up the slopes, and it works great that way. Thanks for the comment!
Love your design but was wondering if you had thought of removing that gas engine and using a hydraulic motor powered from your remotes on tractor?
I did think of that. I don't remember the numbers, but I concluded that the hydraulic system in my little tractor couldn't effectively power a hydraulic motor at cutting speed. And in the end, a push mower with a gas engine was cheaper than a hydraulic motor. Thanks for the comment!
Good job but uuuummmm uh why didn't you make it with a bigger deck mower.
Push mowers are cheap to buy, and they don't make them very large. I do wish it was bigger though. Maybe on a future version, if I find a good deal on a bigger mower deck, I'll do that. Thanks for the comment!
Have you thought about use a weed eater instead of the mowing deck? Seems you could get away with using lighter materials
That's a good idea! I didn't think of that.
I would love to see you build one. I have lots of creek bank that i cant mow with all of it actually lower than the road. But a boom weed eater would make my world a happy place.
It would be a lot slower than the mower deck. Plus, the deck is likely to cut the grass cleaner than a weed eater.
I would just weedwack it once or twice a month a just deal with how it looks.
too long cut, 2.5 feet off boom. will be much stronger and better,will keep it from wobble so much.
to much slope for oil in engine.
Your bank-mower discharges onto the roadway; this is illegal in many areas because the clippings on the roadway create a minor hazard for automobiles, and an extreme hazard for two wheeled motor vehicles (eg. motorcycles and scooters).
Yes! I had several viewers comment on that years ago when I originally posted it. Check out my update video where I reconfigured it to discharge away from the roadway:
ruclips.net/video/iSJFCd_5gNk/видео.html
Watch the whole darn video an he never even showed it working makes me wonder if it even worked
You're not the first person to mention that :-). I should have put the video of it in use at the beginning. I think a lot of people skip around and miss it. The video of it in use is at 13:10 - 14:45.
you better be carefull shooting rocks at cars bro
Your engine will not last long on that steep bank, 35 degrees max for splash up oiler.
I did find a technical article published by Briggs and Stratton saying that the engine should work fine to 30 degrees. Here is the link:
www.briggsandstratton.com/lam/pt/support/faqs/angle-of-engine-operation
I was a little surprised when they said that carburetor function usually dictates the maximum operation angle. Like you, I always thought it was the splash lubrication. I also read somewhere that being angled to one side is better than the other, due to the oil reservoir arrangement. Although I do exceed 30 degrees when I use it, its for a few really short periods of 60 seconds or so. We'll see how long this one lasts. When it dies, I might look for a Lawn Boy, which is 2-cycle.
Vance's How-To Video Library
Yes but that bank looks like 35-45 degrees, not 30.
Your tractor should be stable on a 30 degree bank, just hold the up hill brake a little.
I doubt if the tractor manufacturer rates the tractor for such steep side slopes. I suspect most don't even rate them for going straight up/down hill that steeply.
And it certainly would not be safe on an approximately 45 degree slope, which comprises part of the mow area.
buggsy5 Check the owners manual it should say stable to 35 degrees.
About that same as the Mower engine but use romps.
27 minutes and you never demo'd it in use, sigh....
The demo is from 13:10 - 14:50. Watch again; maybe you missed it?
+Vance's How-To Video Library yes, thanks, I was skipping through caus it was a lot of talking, I did miss it, thanks again, looks good in action actually.
TheTorkerman o
You could have sold your mower deck and purchased an offset flail mower. Although, you are an engineer so ......
.
Those are too pricey for me :-). Although they do look nice!
Please pick up the pace buddy. Hell I fell asleep 4 times waiting for you to get to the point of the whole thing. Not sure why you feel lime you have to tell every little detail . You have a good design. But you got to pick up your presentation pace. Oh have you thought about a type of shock. Like a shock absorber. Just a thought. Take some pressure off the arm. It won't ride so stiff . Just a thought there. Other than that nice kid on the design. Oh and please buddy pick up the Pace a little bit. 👍