Last car I cleared I couldn't get the cap off my clear hardener so I used MCW enamel hardener. Worked fine so your method works well also, thanks for the tip and the rest you bring to the hobby!!
Very nice tutorial. I’ve seen you did this several times, but I’m glad you broke the steps down. You need to do a video on the metal paints you use and the 2K clear. I think I have bought the same 2K clear you are using. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip Matthew ... I use the same clear, sprays out excellent. I'll have to try taking off my end cap cuz I'm constantly wiping up the build up of paint. If I don't it'll splatter. KUTGW. TCWAGS 👍😎
Sure would be nice to have a link to those filters you use. Always nice to be able to order the correct ones, because just going by the picture is so often a failure.
Always spray my models not too happy with results some come good some look like an orange just got an airbrush and compressor but I'm scared to use it going to try this weekend😅
Thanks Matthew for this tutorial. For the guys using Rustoleum spray cans and getting absolutely horrible results please go to an airbrush if you can and use Matthew's mixing method. With a little practice you won't be disappointed in your paint jobs.
I have always used Tamiya Acrylic paints but was really impressed with what u did with some old testors enamel on a video years ago--thinking about switching to mcw and go all in that route ! you know gotta get all the colors..I have no experiance with enamel and airbrush..is this the best way you have found to paint models(mcw, hardner, clear) any other advice as I change my model game up--I was a big fan of Decanting Tamiya Laquer before ,,this looks easier.
It should be noted that once opened, both MCW enamel and clear coat hardener are one time use products. Before opening a jar, be sure to have a minimum of 8 bodies primed and ready to paint. The alternative is to order a new jar of hardener, for both enamel and clear for each build. That gets expensive, but you can door dash at night to make the extra cash. You will need it.
That's very interesting. The humidity is not an issue up here. It's rare that the humidity gets over 20% unless it's snowing, or raining. Enamels generally take 2 to 3 hours to set, and harden off. I usually have a hot pad under my paint booth in on high heat. This helps to speed hardening time. If I am using the Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy, it takes a few more hours to set up and harden off. Done carefully, this dries to a very high gloss finish. With the black especially, I can see my reflection in it. No need to clear coat. What you do works for you, that's all that really matters.
Is that hardener or activator? There is a hardener for acrylic enamel, but activator is for urethane (2k). I know your system works for you, but just wondering if it's actually the correct stuff for that type of paint.
I am using MCW paints. The leveling thinner is non existent it seems right now. I bought some lacquer thinner. Someone said something about adding some retarder to it…all I could find is Vallejo Retarder Medium 70.597. Will that work? I’ll be using some of the MCW hardener to start… appreciate your videos.
Thanks Matthew for this tutorial. For the guys using Rustoleum spray cans and getting absolutely horrible results please go to an airbrush if you can and use Matthew's mixing method. With a little practice you won't be disappointed in your paint jobs.
Thank you Mathew...I am now hooked on mcw paint
Thanks Matt for the excellent tutorial on how you mix paint.
Last car I cleared I couldn't get the cap off my clear hardener so I used MCW enamel hardener. Worked fine so your method works well also, thanks for the tip and the rest you bring to the hobby!!
Great toutorial Matt! Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦
Thanks for sharing Matthew
Great how to Matt! Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks Matt! Great way to do it. Have a ton to paint tomorrow
Great how to video. I have used the pre thinned lacquer love that paint
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice tutorial. I’ve seen you did this several times, but I’m glad you broke the steps down. You need to do a video on the metal paints you use and the 2K clear. I think I have bought the same 2K clear you are using. Thanks for sharing.
Great how to! I mix my paint very similar. I mostly use nason fast dry enamel auto paint. Works very well for me
Cool as always.
Cool 😎
👀Very nice 🎉👍🏼
Thanks Matthew !
Thanks for the tip Matthew ... I use the same clear, sprays out excellent. I'll have to try taking off my end cap cuz I'm constantly wiping up the build up of paint. If I don't it'll splatter. KUTGW. TCWAGS 👍😎
Sure would be nice to have a link to those filters you use.
Always nice to be able to order the correct ones, because just going by the picture is so often a failure.
Matt do you have to use paint hardener MCW paint??
Nice 😅....its a little dry where I'm at 😂
Always spray my models not too happy with results some come good some look like an orange just got an airbrush and compressor but I'm scared to use it going to try this weekend😅
Thanks Matthew for this tutorial. For the guys using Rustoleum spray cans and getting absolutely horrible results please go to an airbrush if you can and use Matthew's mixing method. With a little practice you won't be disappointed in your paint jobs.
Matthew , do you think this same procedure would work for testors enamels ?
I'm not sure. I never added hardner to testors.
I will have to test. I have quite a few of those little bottles. Still have some nice colors
I have always used Tamiya Acrylic paints but was really impressed with what u did with some old testors enamel on a video years ago--thinking about switching to mcw and go all in that route ! you know gotta get all the colors..I have no experiance with enamel and airbrush..is this the best way you have found to paint models(mcw, hardner, clear) any other advice as I change my model game up--I was a big fan of Decanting Tamiya Laquer before ,,this looks easier.
It should be noted that once opened, both MCW enamel and clear coat hardener are one time use products. Before opening a jar, be sure to have a minimum of 8 bodies primed and ready to paint. The alternative is to order a new jar of hardener, for both enamel and clear for each build. That gets expensive, but you can door dash at night to make the extra cash. You will need it.
How do you prepare the body for paint please tell us
I sand it with 2500 and wipe it down with alcohol before painting.
That's very interesting. The humidity is not an issue up here. It's rare that the humidity gets over 20% unless it's snowing, or raining. Enamels generally take 2 to 3 hours to set, and harden off. I usually have a hot pad under my paint booth in on high heat. This helps to speed hardening time. If I am using the Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy, it takes a few more hours to set up and harden off. Done carefully, this dries to a very high gloss finish. With the black especially, I can see my reflection in it. No need to clear coat. What you do works for you, that's all that really matters.
Where do you buy your acme 2k clear and reducer? Thanks for the video.
Ebay
Just stared using mcw after I met you I Simpsonville. What if you don't have the level thinner but the paint and hardening. Can you just do that?
Absolutely! It's not a necessity
There are 2 needles that I know of .35 and .5, I’d say with ur spray pattern it is a .35 .
Humidity definitely or lack of humidity will affect the paint. That's why its important to do a test spray before you begin painting.
Is that hardener or activator? There is a hardener for acrylic enamel, but activator is for urethane (2k). I know your system works for you, but just wondering if it's actually the correct stuff for that type of paint.
It's hardner
I am using MCW paints. The leveling thinner is non existent it seems right now. I bought some lacquer thinner. Someone said something about adding some retarder to it…all I could find is Vallejo Retarder Medium 70.597. Will that work? I’ll be using some of the MCW hardener to start… appreciate your videos.
You know that even though the pipettes are really inexpensive you could use only one....Hardener first, thinner, paint.
A lot of information,sort of.
Thanks for sharing your formula. Your like aMad scientist,🥸
Lol
Thanks Matthew for this tutorial. For the guys using Rustoleum spray cans and getting absolutely horrible results please go to an airbrush if you can and use Matthew's mixing method. With a little practice you won't be disappointed in your paint jobs.