Finally a smart person! First weld the electronic and second complete the box of speaker. I saw more of this video, but this is the first video wich the man work smart. Finalmente una persona intelligente! Prima salda i cavi e tutta l'elettronica, poi finisce la cassa dell'altoparlante. Ho visto molti di questi video, ma questo è il primo che lavora con intelligenza.
Super work. Was the box sealed properly, with speaker mesh comes between wood. I would add speaker mesh last. Also I think two passive radiators will do better one at the front and another at the back. That Bluetooth module is good (CSR chip only) but in built amplifier is not enough. it is for headphones. better to use a separate amplifier module. Also I would prefer passive radiator with a metal frame as the way you applied glue could affect its movement.
Thanks. I do agree that a second PR could benefit the design, but everything else works very well. Well sealed enclosure, PR moved correctly and is still working fine after few years. And it goes loud for the size, definitely not an amp suited to headphones. You will blow them up.
Does the front baffle stick well to the body as it is wrapped with the speaker cloth? I am looking into making a similar design but worried about not getting an air tight chamber
Great build! Can you do a video explaining how to solder together the amplifier board to the various parts? There isn't a single video on youtube that i've found detailing how/where to connect potentiometers, on/off switches, LED indicators etc and you sure seem to know what you're doing...
arithehurricane 'Barry llewelyn', or 'Baudio', did a video on building his 10w speaker. Soundblab did exactly what Barry did as far as I could tell so you could check out Barry's video for information on the soldering.
SoundBlab hey bro I want to connect 2 speakers and 1 tweeters if I get all three in 8 ohms and a 8 ohms three way crossover it will be still at 8 ohms..the impedance will not change right?
Hi if i may be so bold for the people who dont like the starting noise you can put a switch inline with each speaker positive and turn them off before powering the device on then wait till your connected and switch them back on although i dont personaly mind the startup sound its something i got used to hope this helps and also great video love this build #soundblab
Beautiful build. Is there any particular reason to WHY you didn't shoot for a higher RMS powered amp and drivers as well as battery. I'm also curious as to how long it holds a charge under moderate listening conditions? ? ?
Thanks. The bluetooth amps I could find that has higher output normally requires a higher power voltage than the 5Volts I was after so that it can be charged via USB. Also, the 10 watts this speaker for it's size produce seems to be adequate for my needs. I use this speaker everyday with my laptop for a couple of hours and only need to recharge it once week or two. Probably at slightly lower than moderate listening levels though.
Dagsê.. What is that square piece called that you insert in the front between the speakers? I have seen you use round ones as well. Is this purely for cosmetics or does it add to the sound characteristics?
It is called a passive radiator. Essentially it replaces a typical port in a speaker and acts in the same way where it is tuned to a specific resonance frequency that determines the bass output of the speaker enclosure. The advantage over a port, is that it can reduce the typical boomy sound of a port and reduce port noise as the air flows through a port (in a nutshell, the science is more involved, but hopefully this explains it somewhat).
@@SoundBlab that explains it perfectly, thanks so much for taking the time to explain it.. Much appreciated. I thought it might have something to do with SPL because there is no port etc.. So it can "Flex" 😂
Hey, I was wondering what kind of glue you were using with the passive radiators. The glue I used is loosening up, so help would be really appreciated! Thanks!
This is a surprisingly good amplifier module and there is almost no distortion at the higher volume spectrum. If there is any it would more likely be the quality of the speaker connected to it and whether it has a flat frequency response or not. When the FQ response is not flat, the accentuated frequencies will sound like it is distorting. The speakers I specified for this build has a good flat response and sounds balanced all the way to the top.
It is Poly-fill or Dacron. It is used inside the speaker enclosure to provide dampening to the drivers and assist in minimizing standing waves inside the enclosure. It is important not to overfill the enclosure, you want to use only the right amount of fill, to much and the speaker can sound dull. The passive radiators must be match to the drivers you use. If it is too heavy the passives will not be able to resonate at an optimum frequency. If the passives are lighter in weight it can move more and will work at a more optimum frequency. The rule of thumb is that the passive must be around 1.5 times the size of the effective radiating area of the driver. However, that is only half of it, you must also determine the ideal weight of the passive from the tuning frequency of the enclosure with the driver you used. So, just use a passive that is lighter in weight.
I like all of your projects and I want to buy them, but I should have listened to them. As for the shape you predicted the speaker, I think you should put silicone or edge rubber thinner so you do not have sound leakage.
Excellent build, particularly on the audio and mechanical side. I would advise to use a LiPo pack that has some protection build in. A flat pack would also be easier to mount securely in contrast to the 18650 round cell and help avoiding unprotected wire links. When soldering directly to round cells, a low temp solder e.g. Sn42Bi58 would work great complemented by a low temp setting on the iron would help. In general I’d use more insulation, in case some glue breaks and components come lose and rattle around in the enclosure. From an electrical design standpoint step up booster are something I’d try to avoid in an audio context as they are prone to introduce noise to the power rail. I’d investigate towards an amplifier that works well with 3.2V (lower discharge level of the LiPo). If that isn’t feasible - a look into higher battery voltages e.g. 7.2V might be helpful with either a step up charge when USB compatibility is crucial or an external plug pack with a higher voltage might be useful to feed a 7.2V battery. I’d suggest some kind of indicator that the systems is “running”. An extra LED shining through the front cloth might be nice.
E.g. 3.7V flat pack battery w. protection: www.aliexpress.com/item/L308-3-7V-3000mAH-605085-PLIB-polymer-lithium-ion-Li-ion-battery-for-power-bank/32290824638.html There are "all in one" solutions for the USB-Charge-Step-Up task, e.g.: www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-Boost-Step-Up-Power-Module-Lithium-LiPo-Battery-Charging-Protection-Board-LED-Display-USB-For/32819047141.html And a somewhat nice USB-solution - avoiding to stick out the full PCB, e.g.: www.aliexpress.com/item/5pin-Micro-USB-2-0-Male-Connector-to-Micro-USB-2-0-Female-Extension-Cable-30cm/32868196892.html www.aliexpress.com/item/50cm-USB-2-0-B-Female-Socket-Printer-Panel-Mount-to-USB-Micro-B-5/32837829085.html
Thanks. The capacitor is a 10V 1500uF. As long as the capacitor voltage rating is higher than the input voltage you should be fine. You want a capacitor that can give you a longer 'charging/discharging' period. For this you need a relative high capacity such as the 1500uF I am using.
Thanks man, appreciate the support! You can go to this URL (led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) and calculate the values for the LED/Resistor circuit that you can connect across the positive and negative output terminals coming from the step up power booster board. The same spot where you connect the capacitor. Enter the values as follows for a red 5 Volt LED: 6.5 and 2 and 20. You should get a resistor value of 270 ohms. I have not tried this in my own design, so you do this at your own risk. However, it should work if connected up correctly.
Yet another nice BT speaker. Mounting the bass radiator on the same panel with the speakers is the best way to get all sound frequencies upfront. Do you have a sound test video coming up?
SoundBlab I want to make one, but I'm going to use a 3w+3w amplifier (in fact, I'm going to use the drivers and amplifier from a small - and really strong - PC speaker). But I'm going to put it in a glasses' case made of metal... But I don't have the proper tools yet. :)
Do you buy speaker drivers locally, and if so, where if you don't mind me asking? That's if you buy from local suppliers. Only place I found with reasonable choice is RS Components. I've been wanting to build a pair (maybe with a 3rd woofer box) of full range desktop speakers for some time now.
I have bought from RS before, but the choice is limited. I mostly buy from eBay, Madisound, or Parts Express, which means we pay a bit of a premium when you consider the high shipping cost.
Another excellent Video SoundBlab, thank you! Really like how you make the vids in general, with the fitting music to make it almost a chillout session and not some effed up dub/metalstep... I you allow, a little question; using it at let´s say 50%-75% volume, what is your guess how long the battery will last? I guess adding another one could help, but if you say it lasts for 4 Hours (what I somewhat doubt) it should be okay...
Thanks man, glad you are enjoying the videos! I have not done a test to find out how long the battery will last, but I use it almost everyday for an hour or so at moderate volume (20-30%) and I only have to charge it every week or two.
Yet another fine build! I'm just sad because of the screws on the back. In my opinion they don't match the quality of the rest of this fine little speaker.
The capacitor helps to reduce the typical 'pop' sound you here when switching on the speaker. It is a polarized electrolytic cap with a value of 1500-1600uF (16V).
Hi , i have an Alien 0708 8" Subwoofer ( Cheap One ; Around "300 W" they say )and i want to build a box , and i want to get a loud deep bass , can you give me some design ideas or plans to build it , Thank u from Romania
what do you say about this type of enclosure scontent.fsbz1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/17499902_1779863755675122_1886029711_o.png?oh=ac793bd6d722f77836efada6d32934e5&oe=58DAE4A7
The capacitor helps to reduce the typical 'pop' sound you here when switching on the speaker. It is a polarized electrolytic cap with a value of 1500-1600uF (16V).
I built a Bluetooth Speaker with a 2 3w 4ohm speaker powered by a PAM8403 amplifier supported by 5v 1A powerbank charger module and for the bluetooth i have used a USB powered bluetooth adapter Now while connecting 5v output from the powerbank module is connected to the +ve and -ve of the amplifier module and the same wire I removed the sheath connected a B0505s-1w dc -dc 5v-5v isolating converter to the respective +ve and-ve wires and the output from the converter to the Bluetooth Module Problem1: Ground Loop Sound Interference still exist Problem2: Slight heart beat like thumps from the speaker Can you help me find a solution to this? Thanks in advance
It is a nitrocellulose based sanding sealer with very good grain filling and sanding properties. It is used for grain filling on interior woods and when sanded gives a very smooth finish. It works well to seal MDF wood before applying an undercoat or top coat.
hello sir i want to know all components used in this build. i know some. i want to know is it bk8000l Bluetooth module? MSB, DRILLING MACHINE. what is name of smoothing MACHINE(for corner)? and the name of net used in front of speakers? and the what is black tap for air tight. please tell me remaining important.
All the parts and where to get them is in the video description. Not sure exactly what you mean by MSB, drilling machine and smoothing machine, but the corner scan be rounded with a router, and the drilling is done with a drill stand and cordless drill.
Hi, sorry to bother you but can you tell me the purpose of that capacitor? Why's it there? I'm new in this stuff and I already burnt one of those amp boards
Always make sure that the voltage rating of the capacitor is higher than the supply voltage for the application. If you are using a 12 volt supply, then make sure you use a capacitor that is rated 25 volt, for example. For a 5 volt supply use a 10 volt cap. Also make sure the cap is of the polarized electrolytic kind with a positive and negative lead. Connect the cap in parallel with the output of the power supply rails with positive lead to the + rail and the negative to the - rail. Use a cap with a value of about 1500 or 1600 uF. However, I am not an electronic engineer and can only tell you that this has worked for me when I have used designs that is powered with a battery that is connected on a charging circuit at low DC voltages. I have not tried this in any other configuration. Perhaps there is a more knowledgeable person around here that can comment on this and how it works?
Hi, I finally concluded my speaker with your help but I am noticing that the sound is stuttering sometimes.. like a frame drop but in sound ... Is this happening to you? Did I did something wrong?
Your builds are well thought out and watching you construct them is nice. Do you sketch or draw dimensions before you start , or maybe just layout the components and determine a layout ?
Thanks. Yes, there is a lot of drawing, sketching and planning that goes into a build. I am thinking of doing a video explaining my process behind this build soon.
That is a general rule of thumb, which I agree with in principle for builds using larger and more easily measurable components (small components are very difficult to measure accurately with basic equipment). However, with small drivers like this with limited excursion and output, in order to make that radiator move, it cannot be too heavy or too big. In this case it works well and I think two radiators would not have made any difference to the result.
Hey Barry, Thank you! You are welcome to take credit for it, but for the record your build was not used as reference and no harm was intended in the process! The speaker was not designed and built to be based on any other build and parts were selected through my own research, testing and availability. I went through a few iterations before settling on this particular electronics configuration. With so many similar builds around I think it is easy to put something together that resembles something else and use similar parts without intending to copy someone else's design.
No harm done :) The electronics configuration here is exactly identical to my previous speaker design however. Also just a quick suggestion, these 3 inch passive radiators would likely be a better alternative to the passive radiator shown above, as it's much lighter and therefor closer to the resonant frequency www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3-inch-75MM-Bass-diaphragm-Bass-passive-board-Speaker-Bass-Film-/262915552093?hash=item3d36fcf35d:g:S4YAAOSw4CFYuLAH Looking forward to the future videos! :)
Barry Llewellyn YT I have built a similar speaker like your one but many months before you uploaded your result. This electronic configuration of a Li Ion Cell combined with a charging module, this popular 5w Bluetooth amp and a Voltage booster, set to the max Voltage of 6.5V ist really common. Just because you uploaded earlier doesnt necisarrily mean that you invented this configuration/schematic. But you also need to give credit to Bose and their design of 2 Woofers and a passive Radiator. I can hardly believe that this also was your idea... Cheers
The CSR8645 bt+amp board was virtually unheard of at the time when I uploaded my design, compared to now where it's becoming almost as well known as other compact boards like those based on the PAM8403 platform. However of course there is the small chance that both designs could co-exist without either entity being aware of it. Small details, right down to capacitors of the same value and protected 18650 cells made me a little suspicious. As mentioned before no hard feelings, just pointing it out :) As for the second point, Bose were in no way the creators of the 2 woofer 2 passive radiator format for enclosures. The only significant innovation that I can think of in their Soundlink series is there long-throw passive radiator designs, something not featured in either of these designs.
Thanks. No, in this case the capacitor helps to prevent a pop sound when you switch on the speaker. It's needed for both un- and protected charger boards.
The video was good but the camera placement could be better. Your hands got in the way when you were soldering the circuits which is the most important part (for me atleast)
Hey sir, I have a idea! can we make an arduino home assistant? Which means, we make a thing with arduino that takes our voice to our phone and takes the audio that is produced by phone to a speaker via Bluetooth(hc-05).our phone works as the SERVER. when we ask "what is the whether", the mics should pick up our voice and sent it to our phone, then our phone executes it and sents an audio input which is then transferred to our speakers. and in our phone we can use a personal assistant app called alexa. it automatically takes in our commands when we say "HEY ALEXA" without pressing any button or switches. wait but first let me know is it a dumb idea or a good. it will be great if you make a video in that. Like if you agree.....
I'm glad you noticed :) The cost in Rand terms is about R500 for parts from eBay, plus what you spend on the wood enclosure. The biggest expense goes to the speakers you choose. The higher the quality the more you will pay.
Finally a smart person! First weld the electronic and second complete the box of speaker. I saw more of this video, but this is the first video wich the man work smart.
Finalmente una persona intelligente! Prima salda i cavi e tutta l'elettronica, poi finisce la cassa dell'altoparlante. Ho visto molti di questi video, ma questo è il primo che lavora con intelligenza.
This is very cute. he didnt just assemble an electronic piece. Rather he have very beauty and authentic look to his creation.
So satisfying to watch your videos. It would be better if you do a sound test at the end I assume everyone will be eager to hear the sound from it.
Great video! What's the purpose for the capacitor on the output of step-up converter board?
Thanks. That cap eliminates any 'pop' sound when you power on the unit.
Super work. Was the box sealed properly, with speaker mesh comes between wood. I would add speaker mesh last. Also I think two passive radiators will do better one at the front and another at the back. That Bluetooth module is good (CSR chip only) but in built amplifier is not enough. it is for headphones. better to use a separate amplifier module. Also I would prefer passive radiator with a metal frame as the way you applied glue could affect its movement.
Thanks. I do agree that a second PR could benefit the design, but everything else works very well. Well sealed enclosure, PR moved correctly and is still working fine after few years. And it goes loud for the size, definitely not an amp suited to headphones. You will blow them up.
Does the front baffle stick well to the body as it is wrapped with the speaker cloth? I am looking into making a similar design but worried about not getting an air tight chamber
Yes, I used PVA wood glue and it works fine.
Great build! Can you do a video explaining how to solder together the amplifier board to the various parts? There isn't a single video on youtube that i've found detailing how/where to connect potentiometers, on/off switches, LED indicators etc and you sure seem to know what you're doing...
Perhaps we can do this in a future video sometime.
arithehurricane 'Barry llewelyn', or 'Baudio', did a video on building his 10w speaker. Soundblab did exactly what Barry did as far as I could tell so you could check out Barry's video for information on the soldering.
Thank you Very much for the Video.
Best use for an Edgards Club card I've seen in years! Thanks for the video.
I agree! Thanks.
SoundBlab hey bro I want to connect 2 speakers and 1 tweeters if I get all three in 8 ohms and a 8 ohms three way crossover it will be still at 8 ohms..the impedance will not change right?
Hi if i may be so bold for the people who dont like the starting noise you can put a switch inline with each speaker positive and turn them off before powering the device on then wait till your connected and switch them back on although i dont personaly mind the startup sound its something i got used to hope this helps and also great video love this build #soundblab
Sound???
Two feet! ^^
Is that wood care is just to seal the MDF so it won’t suck all day the pain on the edges? And can I buy that sealer on Home Depot or Lowe’s?
Great video.Really enjoyed the music on this build as well. Keep going SoundBlab !
Thanks bro! Glad you enjoyed it!
what´s the capacitor purpose ? its like a protector for the drivers to recive just the necesary electricity and dont blow up ?
Yep, answered your own question there mate.
its so relaxing to watch your videos, thanks dude!
Thanks
Think the same.
Beautiful build. Is there any particular reason to WHY you didn't shoot for a higher RMS powered amp and drivers as well as battery. I'm also curious as to how long it holds a charge under moderate listening conditions? ? ?
Thanks. The bluetooth amps I could find that has higher output normally requires a higher power voltage than the 5Volts I was after so that it can be charged via USB. Also, the 10 watts this speaker for it's size produce seems to be adequate for my needs. I use this speaker everyday with my laptop for a couple of hours and only need to recharge it once week or two. Probably at slightly lower than moderate listening levels though.
Fantastic build.
Thanks
is there no any problem bcoz u used 2x15 watts speaker on 5+5 audio module??how about the sounds?
Dagsê.. What is that square piece called that you insert in the front between the speakers? I have seen you use round ones as well. Is this purely for cosmetics or does it add to the sound characteristics?
It is called a passive radiator. Essentially it replaces a typical port in a speaker and acts in the same way where it is tuned to a specific resonance frequency that determines the bass output of the speaker enclosure. The advantage over a port, is that it can reduce the typical boomy sound of a port and reduce port noise as the air flows through a port (in a nutshell, the science is more involved, but hopefully this explains it somewhat).
@@SoundBlab that explains it perfectly, thanks so much for taking the time to explain it.. Much appreciated. I thought it might have something to do with SPL because there is no port etc.. So it can "Flex" 😂
Besides the wood glue which glue are you using? For example when you glued the cloth to the wood. Thank you!
That is contact adhesive. I apply it to the wood, sometimes 2 layers and then wait until it starts to get tacky. I then stretch the fabric over.
is the use of sanding primer to reduce/eliminate the inhalation of harmful MDF dust?
No, it provides a smooth surface for the top coat.
@@SoundBlab What did you use for the top coat? Is it a specific spray paint?
Hey, I was wondering what kind of glue you were using with the passive radiators. The glue I used is loosening up, so help would be really appreciated! Thanks!
Hi Teun, I use a contact adhesive. You apply it to both sides, wait 10 minutes and then stick it together.
Hi, thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
hello, considering that there is a 5 watt apmplifier pushing power to 15 watt speakers there is probably distortion on high volume or am i mistaking?
This is a surprisingly good amplifier module and there is almost no distortion at the higher volume spectrum. If there is any it would more likely be the quality of the speaker connected to it and whether it has a flat frequency response or not. When the FQ response is not flat, the accentuated frequencies will sound like it is distorting. The speakers I specified for this build has a good flat response and sounds balanced all the way to the top.
Of course, because this is a small speaker and the bass output is limited as a result, 'balanced' in this case is relevant to this fact.
I understand yes..thank you very much for the reply!
Nice hand!
Yet another beautiful build!
Thanks
Always great song selection on your videos! Keep up the great work bud.
Thanks
Why are you filling in cotton ?
I built the same one ( with a passive radiator on the back as well), but the passives won't vibrate. Any tips ?
It is Poly-fill or Dacron. It is used inside the speaker enclosure to provide dampening to the drivers and assist in minimizing standing waves inside the enclosure. It is important not to overfill the enclosure, you want to use only the right amount of fill, to much and the speaker can sound dull.
The passive radiators must be match to the drivers you use. If it is too heavy the passives will not be able to resonate at an optimum frequency. If the passives are lighter in weight it can move more and will work at a more optimum frequency.
The rule of thumb is that the passive must be around 1.5 times the size of the effective radiating area of the driver. However, that is only half of it, you must also determine the ideal weight of the passive from the tuning frequency of the enclosure with the driver you used.
So, just use a passive that is lighter in weight.
Alright thanks for your help. I will try everything you just said :)
maybe theres an air leak...
I like all of your projects and I want to buy them, but I should have listened to them. As
for the shape you predicted the speaker, I think you should put
silicone or edge rubber thinner so you do not have sound leakage.
if you glue up the enclosure well you will not have that problem.
What is the capacitor for and is is necessary?
Excellent build, particularly on the audio and mechanical side. I would advise to use a LiPo pack that has some protection build in. A flat pack would also be easier to mount securely in contrast to the 18650 round cell and help avoiding unprotected wire links.
When soldering directly to round cells, a low temp solder e.g. Sn42Bi58 would work great complemented by a low temp setting on the iron would help. In general I’d use more insulation, in case some glue breaks and components come lose and rattle around in the enclosure.
From an electrical design standpoint step up booster are something I’d try to avoid in an audio context as they are prone to introduce noise to the power rail. I’d investigate towards an amplifier that works well with 3.2V (lower discharge level of the LiPo). If that isn’t feasible - a look into higher battery voltages e.g. 7.2V might be helpful with either a step up charge when USB compatibility is crucial or an external plug pack with a higher voltage might be useful to feed a 7.2V battery.
I’d suggest some kind of indicator that the systems is “running”. An extra LED shining through the front cloth might be nice.
E.g. 3.7V flat pack battery w. protection:
www.aliexpress.com/item/L308-3-7V-3000mAH-605085-PLIB-polymer-lithium-ion-Li-ion-battery-for-power-bank/32290824638.html
There are "all in one" solutions for the USB-Charge-Step-Up task, e.g.:
www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-Boost-Step-Up-Power-Module-Lithium-LiPo-Battery-Charging-Protection-Board-LED-Display-USB-For/32819047141.html
And a somewhat nice USB-solution - avoiding to stick out the full PCB, e.g.:
www.aliexpress.com/item/5pin-Micro-USB-2-0-Male-Connector-to-Micro-USB-2-0-Female-Extension-Cable-30cm/32868196892.html
www.aliexpress.com/item/50cm-USB-2-0-B-Female-Socket-Printer-Panel-Mount-to-USB-Micro-B-5/32837829085.html
Thanks, will check these out.
Great video and great achievement !!
About the anti pop capacitor, what value do you use, and how did you calculate it please ?
Thanks. The capacitor is a 10V 1500uF. As long as the capacitor voltage rating is higher than the input voltage you should be fine. You want a capacitor that can give you a longer 'charging/discharging' period. For this you need a relative high capacity such as the 1500uF I am using.
Thanks for these informations. I really love your videos !
Just bought the plans today. One thing I noticed was that there's no power LED. Any thoughts on where to wire one up?
Thanks man, appreciate the support! You can go to this URL (led.linear1.org/1led.wiz) and calculate the values for the LED/Resistor circuit that you can connect across the positive and negative output terminals coming from the step up power booster board. The same spot where you connect the capacitor. Enter the values as follows for a red 5 Volt LED: 6.5 and 2 and 20. You should get a resistor value of 270 ohms. I have not tried this in my own design, so you do this at your own risk. However, it should work if connected up correctly.
Do you know how thick the wood you used is?
6mm or 1/4 inch MDF
Holaa me podria recomendar los elementos para armar el sonido es la primera ves que voy a armar bueno gracias
Really good build as always! :) Hope the best for you :)
Thanks
So Nice Good sound speaker
What did you put on that battery at 14:25?
Yet another nice BT speaker. Mounting the bass radiator on the same panel with the speakers is the best way to get all sound frequencies upfront. Do you have a sound test video coming up?
Thanks. I'm hoping to do a sound test soon.
Aren't the out of phase stereo bass signals cancelling each other out?
Buddy, can you please tell us, what is the shank drill corner size that you used to do the corners of the box?
Radius of 6mm
SoundBlab Buddy, you have no ideas how much thankful I am! Thank you sooo much!
Really nice!
Thank you
SoundBlab I want to make one, but I'm going to use a 3w+3w amplifier (in fact, I'm going to use the drivers and amplifier from a small - and really strong - PC speaker). But I'm going to put it in a glasses' case made of metal... But I don't have the proper tools yet. :)
Sounds like an interesting idea. Yes, lack of tools can be a problem, but there are many things you can do with inexpensive hand tools :)
SoundBlab True! :) And, well... I've already made my own dremel tool (that is REALLY strong!), so just need more things to use with it. :)
Do you buy speaker drivers locally, and if so, where if you don't mind me asking? That's if you buy from local suppliers. Only place I found with reasonable choice is RS Components. I've been wanting to build a pair (maybe with a 3rd woofer box) of full range desktop speakers for some time now.
I have bought from RS before, but the choice is limited. I mostly buy from eBay, Madisound, or Parts Express, which means we pay a bit of a premium when you consider the high shipping cost.
SoundBlab thanks
Excellent project!
Thanks
Another excellent Video SoundBlab, thank you! Really like how you make the vids in general, with the fitting music to make it almost a chillout session and not some effed up dub/metalstep... I you allow, a little question; using it at let´s say 50%-75% volume, what is your guess how long the battery will last? I guess adding another one could help, but if you say it lasts for 4 Hours (what I somewhat doubt) it should be okay...
Thanks man, glad you are enjoying the videos! I have not done a test to find out how long the battery will last, but I use it almost everyday for an hour or so at moderate volume (20-30%) and I only have to charge it every week or two.
cool looks good. it reminds me a bit of the old apple boombox
Thanks. Yes, slightly shrunk.
how can you remove the opstarting noice from the amplifier?
Very nice....me like a lot!
Tx
Yet another fine build! I'm just sad because of the screws on the back. In my opinion they don't match the quality of the rest of this fine little speaker.
I want to buy
Why do you use a capacitor and what kind is it?
The capacitor helps to reduce the typical 'pop' sound you here when switching on the speaker. It is a polarized electrolytic cap with a value of 1500-1600uF (16V).
May I use 5watts 16 ohms speakers instead of these????
Hi , i have an Alien 0708 8" Subwoofer ( Cheap One ; Around "300 W" they say )and i want to build a box , and i want to get a loud deep bass , can you give me some design ideas or plans to build it , Thank u from Romania
what do you say about this type of enclosure
scontent.fsbz1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/17499902_1779863755675122_1886029711_o.png?oh=ac793bd6d722f77836efada6d32934e5&oe=58DAE4A7
why you used the 1500 uf capacitor.
please reply.
The capacitor helps to reduce the typical 'pop' sound you here when switching on the speaker. It is a polarized electrolytic cap with a value of 1500-1600uF (16V).
I built a Bluetooth Speaker with a 2 3w 4ohm speaker powered by a PAM8403 amplifier supported by 5v 1A powerbank charger module and for the bluetooth i have used a USB powered bluetooth adapter
Now while connecting 5v output from the powerbank module is connected to the +ve and -ve of the amplifier module and the same wire I removed the sheath connected a B0505s-1w dc -dc 5v-5v isolating converter to the respective +ve and-ve wires and the output from the converter to the Bluetooth Module
Problem1: Ground Loop Sound Interference still exist
Problem2: Slight heart beat like thumps from the speaker
Can you help me find a solution to this?
Thanks in advance
Why you don't make sound test???
What kind of sealer is that ? I can't find it in Poland cause I can't translate it properly : ( Is it nitro based or Shellac ?
It is a nitrocellulose based sanding sealer with very good grain filling and sanding properties. It is used for grain filling on interior woods and when sanded gives a very smooth finish. It works well to seal MDF wood before applying an undercoat or top coat.
I really like this speaker. Can you give it to me 😍😍😍
why do we have to use capacitor after convert?
It prevents the speakers from making a pooping sound when you switch it on.
hello sir
i want to know all components used in this build.
i know some. i want to know is it bk8000l Bluetooth module?
MSB, DRILLING MACHINE.
what is name of smoothing MACHINE(for corner)? and the name of net used in front of speakers? and the what is black tap for air tight.
please tell me remaining important.
All the parts and where to get them is in the video description. Not sure exactly what you mean by MSB, drilling machine and smoothing machine, but the corner scan be rounded with a router, and the drilling is done with a drill stand and cordless drill.
I MEAN IS THERE MDF AS BOX?
Yes, 6mm MDF board.
Hi, sorry to bother you but can you tell me the purpose of that capacitor? Why's it there? I'm new in this stuff and I already burnt one of those amp boards
The capacitor prevents the typical popping sound that the speaker makes when you switch it on.
SoundBlab Thanks for your help!
Oh ok! And how do I know which voltage and uf of a capacitor to choose?
Always make sure that the voltage rating of the capacitor is higher than the supply voltage for the application. If you are using a 12 volt supply, then make sure you use a capacitor that is rated 25 volt, for example. For a 5 volt supply use a 10 volt cap. Also make sure the cap is of the polarized electrolytic kind with a positive and negative lead. Connect the cap in parallel with the output of the power supply rails with positive lead to the + rail and the negative to the - rail. Use a cap with a value of about 1500 or 1600 uF. However, I am not an electronic engineer and can only tell you that this has worked for me when I have used designs that is powered with a battery that is connected on a charging circuit at low DC voltages. I have not tried this in any other configuration. Perhaps there is a more knowledgeable person around here that can comment on this and how it works?
SoundBlab dam!!! Thanks for the help!! I appreciate the time you took to help me! Keep the awesome work!
Hi, I finally concluded my speaker with your help but I am noticing that the sound is stuttering sometimes.. like a frame drop but in sound ... Is this happening to you? Did I did something wrong?
Your builds are well thought out and watching you construct them is nice.
Do you sketch or draw dimensions before you start , or maybe just layout the components and determine a layout ?
Thanks. Yes, there is a lot of drawing, sketching and planning that goes into a build. I am thinking of doing a video explaining my process behind this build soon.
Wow soo neat & tidy build ever 👌
u need another passive radiators -1 passive radiator should be 1.5 x the dimension of 1 driver
That is a general rule of thumb, which I agree with in principle for builds using larger and more easily measurable components (small components are very difficult to measure accurately with basic equipment). However, with small drivers like this with limited excursion and output, in order to make that radiator move, it cannot be too heavy or too big. In this case it works well and I think two radiators would not have made any difference to the result.
very nice! !!
Thanks
Very cleanly built! Fair play. I would appreciate some credit for the electronics design in the future though.. ;)
Hey Barry, Thank you! You are welcome to take credit for it, but for the record your build was not used as reference and no harm was intended in the process! The speaker was not designed and built to be based on any other build and parts were selected through my own research, testing and availability. I went through a few iterations before settling on this particular electronics configuration. With so many similar builds around I think it is easy to put something together that resembles something else and use similar parts without intending to copy someone else's design.
No harm done :) The electronics configuration here is exactly identical to my previous speaker design however. Also just a quick suggestion, these 3 inch passive radiators would likely be a better alternative to the passive radiator shown above, as it's much lighter and therefor closer to the resonant frequency www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3-inch-75MM-Bass-diaphragm-Bass-passive-board-Speaker-Bass-Film-/262915552093?hash=item3d36fcf35d:g:S4YAAOSw4CFYuLAH Looking forward to the future videos! :)
Cool. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check them out.
Barry Llewellyn YT I have built a similar speaker like your one but many months before you uploaded your result. This electronic configuration of a Li Ion Cell combined with a charging module, this popular 5w Bluetooth amp and a Voltage booster, set to the max Voltage of 6.5V ist really common. Just because you uploaded earlier doesnt necisarrily mean that you invented this configuration/schematic. But you also need to give credit to Bose and their design of 2 Woofers and a passive Radiator. I can hardly believe that this also was your idea...
Cheers
The CSR8645 bt+amp board was virtually unheard of at the time when I uploaded my design, compared to now where it's becoming almost as well known as other compact boards like those based on the PAM8403 platform. However of course there is the small chance that both designs could co-exist without either entity being aware of it. Small details, right down to capacitors of the same value and protected 18650 cells made me a little suspicious. As mentioned before no hard feelings, just pointing it out :) As for the second point, Bose were in no way the creators of the 2 woofer 2 passive radiator format for enclosures. The only significant innovation that I can think of in their Soundlink series is there long-throw passive radiator designs, something not featured in either of these designs.
Why do you use a condenser in your electric wiring?
It is a capacitor. It prevents the speakers from making a pop sound when it is switched on.
SoundBlab thanks
very nice
Thanks
Another beautiful project!
Did you use the capacitor because you were using an unprotected charger?
Thanks. No, in this case the capacitor helps to prevent a pop sound when you switch on the speaker. It's needed for both un- and protected charger boards.
I'll add in the project then.
Thank you!!
It encourages me to see your videos.
Por favor muéstrame en español me gustan mucho tus vídeos . Saludos desde México
Sound test please.
Классная колоночка)))!!
Thanks
Daniy 6
sound error?
Hey. Its amazing. Can i buy IT from you???
Thanks. Sorry. don't sell units, only build plans.
does somebody know how you remove the starting noice?
As far as I know it is not possible with this bluetooth amp.
11:20 what's that called?
Passive radiator
SoundBlab thank you 😆
So how it sounds? this is the point~
Sound test coming soon!
Good video, but the cameras are not stay in troo graund.
The video was good but the camera placement could be better. Your hands got in the way when you were soldering the circuits which is the most important part (for me atleast)
Sorry. Only noticed it while editing and was too late by then :(
thanks sb for this video
Hey.. at 16:18 switch..?
Small SPDT On-Off Slide Switch - goo.gl/gRfuu5
SoundBlab no, I mean - switch that you glued almost fell off when you put mdf on table :(
no sound test..??
Next video after this one
Как называется материал, из которого он сделал корпус?
It is Medium Density Fibre board, also know as MDF (6mm).
SoundBlab thanks
Buen proyecto...
It looks like a to big OREO😂😂 but very cool👍
LOL!
cost wise it will be 2.5x .good for learning
Plz give measure clearly
Nice music
Cool
Hey sir, I have a idea! can we make an arduino home assistant? Which means, we make a thing with arduino that takes our voice to our phone and takes the audio that is produced by phone to a speaker via Bluetooth(hc-05).our phone works as the SERVER. when we ask "what is the whether", the mics should pick up our voice and sent it to our phone, then our phone executes it and sents an audio input which is then transferred to our speakers. and in our phone we can use a personal assistant app called alexa. it automatically takes in our commands when we say "HEY ALEXA" without pressing any button or switches. wait but first let me know is it a dumb idea or a good. it will be great if you make a video in that. Like if you agree.....
When you used that Edgar's card ha ha proudly South African listen what's the cost of a speaker like this?
I'm glad you noticed :) The cost in Rand terms is about R500 for parts from eBay, plus what you spend on the wood enclosure. The biggest expense goes to the speakers you choose. The higher the quality the more you will pay.
And if I got you to make me one?
Music?
а какой наминал на кондере припаян???
Cuanto ?
Test?
Без синей изоленты никуда!))
where is the test ?????
Coming soon!
its osm man hard sound 0🔊🔊🔊
test?
I'ts good 👍
Thanks
last song: minions.
Supar. Bro
Thanks
just buy the jbl charge 2+ 15 watts, splash proof