Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Guitar Truss Rod Nut Placement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 19 дек 2022
- Should the truss rod adjustment nut be positioned at the headstock or the hell of a guitar neck? Here is some food for thought. If you would like to help support my channel and get something cool in return, please consider the following:
www.eguitarplan...
/ highlineguitars
Bitterroot Guitar Parts: www.bitterroot...
Good explanation. I'm in the All-Heel-All-The-Time camp unless a custom build specifically requests otherwise. Cheers!
As a player, one of the first Mods I did on my Strat was to put a notch in the Pickguard and wood underneath so a "paint can lid remover tool" can be used to adjust the Truss Rod easily without removing/loosening the neck, strings, or pickguard. It breaks my heart when I see a beautiful vintage Gibson with a broken headstock. It's an expensive repair and severely depreciates the resale value of the guitar.
If you're building a mahogany neck, you could also consider a volute to add some additional mass underneath the truss rod access hole. And you might also consider using a scarf joint to avoid grain runout in the headstock and ensure a stronger neck. I know you're no longer a big fan of scarf joints, which is fine as long you're using stronger woods like maple.
I had to repair an upscale epiphone acoustic that had the headstock adjustment. So much wood was routed away that there was almost nothing left to make room for the large adjustment nut on the end of the Truss rod. I alleviate the problem by using a half inch steel tube on my acoustics
Outstanding explanation. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Adding a volute helps to increase strength . Also a lesser angle on the headstock reduces the likelihood of breakage. I build a particular style of guitar that has only one pickup. On these , I usually place the adjustment at the heel end. Love your work Chris 💜💜💜💜💜💜 Sarah
Really useful. Thanks! Not a builder myself, just enjoying learning about that stuff (actually doing only refrets, nuts and other setup work) But will definitely build a few guitars in the future, ehe. Your channel has been a great resource.
Thanks for the great explanation. Please can you point me to a video where I can see what stops the truss rod from sliding out (when the adjustment nut is at the head) when it’s tension/compression is released?
I am not aware of any video that would explain that. Maybe I'll make one someday.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks Chris! That would be great. Just working through your videos in advance of my first build with my son. You channel is a great source of information!!!
Have you heard or read about the tension free necks by bunker guitars that even made some necks for ibanez usa guitars in the late 90s? It was an interesting design but its hard to understand how it works…
Hello, I just realized the spokewheel on my guitar moves back and forth very little. Is it normal? I mean to say when I put the hex wrench inside the hole of spoke wheel, it is not fixed and firm. It moves little bit. Is it ok?
It shouldn't move back and forth.
@@HighlineGuitars i mean to say from left to right. I hope I have explained it correctly
Hey, Chris. I routed my first truss rod channel for a 3-string CBG bass with a 34" scale. It's a 1/4" route all the way. The brass fittings are snug but the rods are 7'32" I believe. Should I scrap the neck and save the truss rod before I put a fretboard on? It's a great maple neck that I hand built and I don't want to waste it but the build is for a friend so I don't want to send him a bad apple. Thanks!
I don't understand your problem.
you mean the trussrod is a little loose? That probably shouldn't matter, and you could shim the gap with a strip of veneer (or almost anything else) if you're worried about it.
What I'd be more concerned with is whether the 7/32 (
Awesome. I bought several Gibson /Epi guitars with broken heads. I thought the flaw was design because the mass at that nut area was minimal. Now I know it's wood based. I suspect the mahogany. necks being under string tension adds to the issue.
Its a combination of things. The worst offender is the mahogany like you said. But the Gibson guitars also have an even steeper back angle compared to Epiphone, this increases leverage against the breaking point when smacking the headstock. Then there is the problem that the expensive more "fancy" guitars have a 1-piece neck instead of a scarf joint where the neck meets the headstock: the wood grain is oriented so that it wants to split apart at that weak spot. And lastly, they have a large chunk routed out at that very weak spot to fit that big trussrod adjustment nut.
@@infectionsman The "leverage" thing isn't really right (a 6 inline fender has more leverage), IMO, but otherwise spot on. The steep headstock angle is the main culprit IMO. It's not as much to do with leverage, as the fact that it sticks back relative to the body. If you lay a fender flat on the floor, the head may not even reach the floor. if it gets knocked over onto the floor, the body hits first and it'll probably be fine unless it the head hits something else on the way. gibsons usually have both more neck angle to aim the strings at their taller bridges, and a headstock that leans way back. If they fall flat back on the floor, the head hits first with the weight of the body still behind it.
The short grain, big chunk milled out for the trussrod, and mahogany splitting along the grain a bit more easily all add up to it being a fair bit more fragile in an accident.
Please show us your drilling fixture.
Ask and you shall receive: ruclips.net/video/0MBcJ75zhjM/видео.html&feature=shares&t=551
What’s your opinion about PLEK?
They're great if you have local access to one that is operated by someone who knows what they are doing. Shipping a guitar to be PLEK'd is dumb IMO.
Have you had any issues with spokewheel trussrod vibration or resonation from other trussrods?
Yes. I usually fix it by applying just enough tension to eliminate it.
Any thoughts on having so little wood to support the last fret when using the heel/spoke wheel?
There’s enough wood.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks, I always get a little nervous seeing that solution.
If I want to remove the black plastic plug and leave it out, will it cause any harm?
It does help with the stability of the headstock. Well, a little bit.
Not if it's your traditional one-way truss rod. But there *are* guitars out there (especially Fenders IIRC), where the plug is essential for the rod's 2-way functionality!
Although these plugs would usually be wood, not plastic, you better check twice - just to be on the safe side.
@@kiwibass I agree.
@@kiwibass thanks, I can't find an instance where anybody has tried this