How did I build this: I wrote an email explaining it, so, figured I would post it here.. I have attached two pictures, but, let me tell you what you are looking at, and why, because, I can describe the two pictures to you just as well as you seeing them... The trailer pockets are the same material as what I am using on top of them for the risers that hold the D-Rings and wood panels.. In my case, on this trailer, they are Rectangular Tubing of 2" x 4" x some thickness, which I can't remember off of the top of my head, but, I would say a gauge less than or equal to 1/8" thick. All I am doing is putting some flexible extensions on the bottom of my uprights, that will slide down into the stake pockets in the trailer... Why did I say "Flexible"? If you have done any amount of welding, then, you understand "Warpage from Welding", or/and, these pieces of metal are not "Dimensionally Perfect".. So, the first one I made, I had an idea to put a rectangular plate on the bottom and do it that way... Make the rectangular plate fit very well, weld it to the bottom and push it down in.. That obviously didn't work because, everywhere there was a weld, that held the rectangular to the trailer, it was warped to some point that would stop the tight fitting rectangular.. So, this had to be done a different way... I needed something flexible, I needed something that would fit inside of the same piece of rectangular down in the bed, and, I wanted it to fit the inside corners that are not 90degree sharp corners, but, have a radius... So, I chose a 1/2" x 1/2" Angle, in a thickness o 3/16 or 1/4", which I had both on hand and used both.. The extra thickness allowed me to grind the 90 degree outside corners from the sharp edges to a rounder radius edge to fit the inside of the Rectangular tubing inside of the bed..Something with some level of flex, but, once fully inserted down in the pockets, would be very sturdy.. I think I made them 20" long each x 4pcs each piece of Rectangular, and left 2" in the ends of the risers where I welded them inside of the Riser's Rectangular Tubing... Before I did that, I had to take the grinder and round off the outside edge (90 degree sharp edge), to give me a rounder radius that would fit the inside corners of the Rectangular tubing.. I was able to weld 2" up into the riser rectangular to get a good weld.. I could have drilled holes in the Rect Tube and plug welded it, but, I got good welds on it, so, was not necessary.. So, I did that 4 times on each stake, took each one to the trailer, slid them down into the stake body, and used the grinder to grind a rounder radius, to the outside edges, where the slipped down easily and smoothly.. Then,, I took a stick, wrapped a small rag around the end, taped it, put some axle grease on it, and mopped the inside of the pockets and 1/2" angle, so, they would not rust and freeze up down the road, and could be taken in and out easily... Each one of the risers was built for each of the holes, and didn't fit perfectly in the other holes because of the welding warpage when the trailer was built, so, I welded the positions of the stakes on the top cap of the risers, so, I would know exactly where they went, if I pulled them all out at one time.. Board wooden panels... I used 5/4" treated deck boards which are a true 1" thick.. Rect Tubing is 2" thick.. So, just needed a little play room for them to slide in and out easily, after I treated them with the Kerosene/Hydraulic fluid treatment, which will make them a little thicker, but, not much.. So, I needed to add about 1/8" width to the 2" thick rectangular tubing to give me an 2-1/8" opening to slide the 2-1/16" wide deck board panels in.. So, I took a piece of 1/2" flat bar, 1/8" in thickness and welded it to one side (directly to the 2x4" Rect,, under a piece of 2" x 3/16" flat bar.. On the other side, I just welded the same 2" x 3/16" flat bar directly to the side of the 2x4" rectangular.. So, by adding the 1/2" x 1/8" thick flat bar to one side, I went from a 2" width for the panels to a 2-1/8" panel spacing area... It's not that difficult.. More grinding to fit the risers into the stake pockets than anything.. That is where I spent most of my time.. But, they all fit perfectly... Hope that helps.. I went ahead and attached a few more pictures of when I was assembling.. When I was doing the clamping, I was trying to decide how much extra room I needed over the 2" wide thickness.. You can see the one of the back was sticking out a bit much.. The boards were warped a bit.. I think I ended up doing a little grinding on the wood to thin in out before I treated them, or, I figured they would straighten out once they were installed and sat in the sun and rain for a while.. I don't remember which.. But, I remember grinding one of them because, it was overly thick and all of the rest were perfect.. Seems like the wood boards were thicker, or warped, I can't remember, but, wasn't bad enough to make me want to replace or swap the boards.. Remember, we are talking about something over 1/8", so, not that big of a deal to trim down.. I sent the pictures of the D-Rings.. I had a bunch of these I took off of some rafts before disposing of them, and seemed like a good way to use a few.. I pull them quite a bit.. I have a covered trash trailer that I accumulate trash in, then, I pull the sides off, and back up next to it and toss everything over into the open trailer, because, I can go to town myself and dump it all in a minute or two, rather than stuffing into the compactors and waiting for it to compact, throw more in, compact, etc.. I just back up, push the button and a minute later, I'm empty.. Ha.. Well worth the time to build it.. I also use it when I load dirt/rocks with my front end loader to keep from dropping big rocks into the bed and distorting it.. I put the sides back on before I leave to go dump it.. One other consideration. I loaded a bunch of limbs/leaves one time, way over the top of the sides, and was going to tie ropes and pull it down tight.. Ended up pulling the sides up, so, some tie downs on the trailer below the sides might be a good edition if you are going to do that..
Thanks August.. I like your intro video... Wow,, your cameras go through hell flying to the ground on those cut pieces... Total Adren junkie I see.. You gotta have big ones.. I know when you work it every day, you get pretty good at it, but, in your line of work,, you don't get too many chances to make a simple mistake.. Stay safe my friend...
You won't regret being able to remove the sides, and the spare tire,, I thought about it for a good while before I finally figured out it would fit perfectly under the trailer.. I hate being without a spare.. Seems,,, if I don't have a spare,, I am going to have tire problems,, and if I do,, the spare will dry rot on the trailer, and never get used..Ha..Ha.. I'm sure you will like what you do with the mods.. I have a small Terramite T5C front end loader/backhoe and taking off the sides does two things for me.. When I load stuff with Rocks/boulders, I can set them down, rather than drop them, and save the bottom of the bed of the trailer.. It also helps me to see exactly how I am loading the trailer.. I get perfect pulling loads every time, and I have loaded the trailer way over limit several times... When I got the trailer, it had sides, but, not removable... Didn't take me long to decide what I wanted.. Now, I have an old Ford 3910 Tractor with a Front End loader and large backhoe.. Even though it is much, much larger, I still remove the sides, or one side when loading for the reasons mentioned earlier.. I don't use it all of the time, but, I really don't care.. The first big job I did with it around here, I figured,, it paid for itself, and now, I use it a couple times a year at best.. But, I may use it for a week or two on a project too.. Lots of freedom when you have one.. Don't forget to watch my other trailer deck board video... I treated the boards on this dump trailer when I did the mods and it still looks brand new, and sits outside 100% of the time.. (Under the trees) Best way to treat.. Much better than Diesel, Oil and Diesel, etc.. I have tried them all... This mix is hands down the best of everything I have tried over the last 30 years.. Wish I had time to post more videos.. I have a crap load of them waiting for me to have more time to work them and post them.. Glad you stopped bye.. Good Luck with your new trailer..
I built them.. Not all were the exact same size and some were not perfectly rectangular.. I found something that worked and built all of them the same way.. Look for my pinned comment starting with "How did I build this: It worked perfectly.. Second mind design nailed it... I explain it in detail.
Wished we lived closer.. I'm sure we would Swap here/swap there... You could use it when you needed it. I bought it used for an upcoming job I had. Needed to haul in some road bond and small gravel in smaller amounts at a time and haul out a bunch of rock infested dirt to a guy who wanted it down the road.. Had a slide behind my bathhouse that we were jackhammering out, so we could get my little Terramite T5C down in there if it ever happened again.. Was going to take a week or better if we had good weather, which is never the case during the fall/winter.. Finding Trailers: There are two states that border us who do not require people to title/tag their trailers, so lots of trailers with no titles in those states.. Most people won't fool with them.. But, with the proper paperwork, you can get them licensed in the state here.. I drove 2 hours to pick it up.. Got a pretty good deal on it. I feel like it paid for itself the first couple of jobs.. Shame.. I only use it 6 or 10 times a year, and some of those are just out of convenience.. Something hard to justify unless you have a regular need for one.. They don't haul anything near a Dump Truck load.. But, handy none the less.. I regularly haul 5 tons (10k lbs) loads when I am using it to dress up the drive ways and parking lots.. You don't need sides for hauling any kind of Rock/Dirt, etc.. But, for hauling lighter debris, trash, etc.. very handy.. But, when loading, so nice to be able to pull the sides and sit the rocks down, rather than dropping them from 2 feet high.. Also, fits a cord of split wood nicely... You definitely want both axles with brakes on one of these when you fill them up.. But, usually very easy to add brakes to the second axle if it does not have them already.. Just some things to consider.. Mine is a 12k pound trailer which has a 6' x 10' bed.. If you spread a load of Road Rock flat in the back of the trailer, it would be about 14 to 16" high to get around that 5 ton load to give you some idea.. So, if primarily hauling Rock/Gravel/Dirt, I would go for a 14K of the same size vs 12k, but, these are mostly utility dumpers, so, the heavier ones are not as common. I passed on a few 14k trailers until I figured that out and then, never saw one again.. I looked at them for about a year before I finally "had to get one".. Thanks for the comments.. Glad you liked the mods.. They were the best way I could see to get the job done..
Awesome.. Hope you can use some of the ideas to make some cool mods to yourself.. It's always nice to use something after some useful mods you made yourself.. If I am loading the trailer with my terramite or my larger tractor, I almost always remove at least one set of side boards.. Keeps me from dropping anything heavy from a greater height.. Saves wear and tear on the bed.. Cheers and Good luck with your mods..
@@MarkThomas123 Started a 5 by 8 dump a few yrs back - got most of the base done -- now researching how I want to finish the upper -- I like the removable sides idea. Cheers
ForFoxSake. Yes. Correct. I made them all myself. I used 3/4 × 1/4 angle welded inside of the 2x4 Rectangular tube. Had to grind the 90 degree edge of the angle to get a good fit. Hope that helps.
@@HexaFox Yes. I agree.. But, I can tell you that, if it is a one size fits all solution, it won't fit "every" trailer well.. I have a Bri-Mar 6'x10' Dump Trailer, and although it is a good trailer, build well, etc,,, a one size fits all solution would not have worked.. The distance between the upright stakes were not the same on both sides, so, had I not checked, and built all of the Board Panels the same, they would not have fit. The 2x4" rectangular tube that was welded to the sides of the trailer where I slid the metal stakes into the pockets were welded heavy on one side, then, the other, so, they were surely out of square/rectangle, and each one had to be fitted to the hole. Buy building them myself, I was able to compensate for that by grinding off the center sharp edge of the angle that went up into the vertical square tube I added, so, it fit flat against the inside.. Then, drilled some holes and plug welded the top of them.. I only went up into the 2x4 rect tube about 3", but, it was too far to get a good weld, so, drilling a hole and plug welding worked out great.. So, basically, I ground down the sharp edge on 3" of the angle going up into the 2x4, so, the angle where it exited the 2x4 tube, the sharp edge of the 90 degree portion of the angle was actually past the outside diameter of the 2x4, and had to be ground down to fit the 2x4 stake pocket.. I ground each of them (4 pieces = 1 each inside corner of the 2x4 rec tube, where I welded in the 3/4" x 3/16(corrected, not 1/4)thick angle). So, a bit of grinding on each piece, but was able to get them to fit perfectly.. Then, I took a stick (1x1" ripped on a table saw), and taped a sock on the end, and put some bearing grease on it and mopped it up and down the trailer stake body to get it fully covered, then, the same with the angle.. It's been a couple of years now, and, still no rust, and they slide easy.. On the two rear stakes, I fitted a piece of 2" x4" x 1/8" flat bar between the 4 pieces of angle and ground it down to fit.. I was thinking it might need some extra strength, but, that is when I found out that the Rectangular tube wasn't rectangular from the factory, from the way the mass welded them together.. That took a heck of a long time to get both of them right.. The middle ones, I just used 4 pieces of angle sticking down only welded inside the riser 2x4 rec tube, and that was more than strong enough, so, that is the way I would do all of them again, if I ever did it again.. It took me a little extra time, because it was a "Mind Design" project. I just knew I wanted stakes and board panels and went out and figured out the best way to do it. Next time, I would already know.. Ha... You could do this yourself... All you would need would be some 2x4" x 1/8" rectangular tube, 3/4 x 3/16" angle 4pcs each upright, and about 24' of 2"x 3/16" flat bar for parts, and a 4" angle grinder with a 10 pack of cut off blades, and a 10 pack of Grinding disks, and you could grind/fit/drill all of the parts and take it to a welder, and he could weld everything up in 2-3 hours, and you could go home and grind the bottoms of the angle and make everything fit.. Then again, you could get an Arc or Mig welder from Harbor Freight and give it a whirl yourself.. :) But, you could do it with 2x4's and some strips to fit the rest of the pockets and come out fine too.. Should last a while if you treat it, and you cap off the vertical end grains of the 2x4's with some sheet metal.. If you really want it to last, make it from treated wood, let the wood dry out a bit after you cut it (stand it on end while drying), then, get some plastic roof cement (roofing Tar), and put it in an old 1 gallon Ice Cream bucket, and keep mixing gas with it, until you can paint it on with a cheap paint brush... It will dry and get hard, then, you can grease the piss out of it where it goes in the hole, and hope you don't have to drill it out if you ever have to remove it.. (what I had to do to the boards that were there that I had to remove.. Ha..Ha.. Either way.. It's a project you can surely do, if you take your time, and would be well worth your time doing it. I use my trailer at least once a month to haul off my household garbage to the dump.. They have an elevated dump station where I can dump into the back of an 19 wheeler below.. If I leave it in my trash trailer and go by myself, I have to unload each bag and stuff it in a trash compactor and keep running back and forth punching the crush button, and on both sides of the trailer.. I just park the dump trailer next to it and pull one side of the boards of and move everything from the trash trailer to the dump trailer before I go.. Then, all I have to do is back up, let the tailgate down and hit the lift switch and dump it all at one time and go.. Other times of the year, I use it every day for a week or two, and periodically, several times per year for a load here and a few loads there maintaining my property.. It's hard to justify the expense if you are not going to use it quite a bit, but, you will surely find things to do with it,, if you have one.. Ha.. :) Just remember.. A welder, a carpenter and a Surgeon all use the same basic set of tools.. Two eyes, two hands, and two feet, and what little we use of our brains.. So, there is nothing anyone else is doing, that you can't also do.. It's just the matter of "I can" before the "I do".. I have not gone to school for anything that I do, and I generally do a better job than those who have.. One thing about teaching yourself.. You never know when you know enough, and no one is telling you that you "Can't" do this and "Can't do that".. I have drank quite a few beers showing guys who were told in welding school that you can't do this or that, so, they never tried.. And, I say, shit, what do you mean you can't do that.. Get me a beer and I'll show you it can be done.. Ha.. If you buy a stick welder (arc), get some 1/8" 6011 welding rods and don't buy any other rods.. I can promise you,, you can weld whatever you want (mild steel) with it.. from a gauge steel to 1" or more thick.. Same thing with a cheap Harbor Freight Mig Welder or "Flux welder without Gas".. I have done it too many times.. HF makes a good little mig welder.. A good plasma cutter too, but, the Cut 50's on Amazon are so much cheaper and they work well too.. Good Luck.. Hope things work out for you.. I'd better get back to work.. Upgrading all of my computers to Windows 10 finally.. Still have some work to do.. Would much rather be out welding something. But, have to build some cabinets and drawers to do some organizing first.. Ha.. Cheers!!
@@MarkThomas123 Thank you for the reply. If one thing is clear it is how passionate you are about this kind of stuff. I was also thinking about how a one size solution would not fit all either for this very reason. It is funny you mention it I was just looking at a Bri-Mar 6x12 dump trailer for my business. The stakes that I saw were way too expensive. It looks like you have to purchase them in pairs and they are like $200 a set or something unbelievable. Also you said you greased them? Can I ask what you used? I would imagine if these are not greased they would be destroyed in quick order.
@@HexaFox I greased them with Axle Grease or Wheel Bearing Grease.. It was to allow it to slide easily without the chalkboard screeching effect, and to keep it from rusting and getting stuck due to the rust.. A little bit of rust can swell things pretty quick and jam things up. I just put a sock on the end of a stick, mopped on some grease (sticking the stick/sock into the can of grease and rolling it around, and then mopped the inside of the stake receivers, and the angle iron that was going to slide down in them.. Works great.. I have played around with all sorts of paint and prep.. It's hard to beat regular Walmart $0.99 per can spray paint. Seems the Rustoleum, no matter how much you prep it, still rusts much faster than the cheap walmart paint. The only thing I have found better (much more expensive) is a commercial product called MCU or Moisture Cured Urethane, and in the heavy silver metal filled flake paint, which you have to vacuum seal, or, fill with a gas heavier than air, and has a shelf life, at best of about 1 year, if you do a great job keeping the moisture out.. Nice thing though, you can paint anytime it is above freezing, and that is when I get to do most of my work.. Winter time. I used the Walmart Rattle cans on the trailer, because I knew it would be in the weather full time and I wanted to test it again.. Still looks great.. If you are going to use wood, even treated, you have to seal the end grains, and, I have not found anything better than the Hydraulic Oil/Kerosene mix that I use on my trailer decks. I have a video on it when I did my 18' tandem Lawrimore utility trailer.. Just search for Trailer and you should find it. Still on the first application.. Just keep putting it on, until it won't soak up any more and, it should be good for 3-5 years or more.. If you really want to take care of it, recoat somewhere between.. Get the size you need.. If you are looking at hauling really heavy stuff, might go with a 6x10 instead of a 6x12. The payload is higher on the smaller trailers in the same Axle weight class because the trailer weighs more, so, less overall left for payload.. You will never fill up any dump trailer with Sand/Gravel, and won't need sides really.. But, if you haul removed roofing or limbs, lumber scraps, nice to have sides due to the volume vs weight.. 10,000 lbs or 5 tons of gravel is about what my 6x10 is rated for plus the 2k for the trailer, and, there is a hump in the middle from to rear, about the height of the metal sides, and then, it rolls over to the sides, usually no more than 3-6" high on the sides (loaded by a huge Front End Loader). By no means full. Something to think about. Make sure you get one with brakes on both axles, unless you are pulling with a 1 ton truck. You never know when you will need that extra braking power, and, the tow vehicle pulling 12k lbs sure can use it, and make sure your tow vehicle has full time power to one of the pins to keep the battery charged while using it.. It is usually the top right pin when looking at the female plugin on the back of the truck standing where the trailer would be. Some times people don't worry with hooking them up, but, you need it on a dumper.. They are pretty rough on a battery. And, keep the battery charged and don't let it sit with a low charge for long periods of time.. The Sulfation will get it, but, you can put a 200 amp charger on it for 30 minutes at a time, letting it cool, tapping on the battery while it is charging and knock the sufates off, and bring a bad battery back to life.. Leaving it in a discharged state is what causes the to Sulfate at a much higher rate.. I have learned lots of things over the years.. A lot of it, the hard way.. Ha.>Ha.. Some of those points are worth writing down somewhere and looking at them every now and then until they become healthy habits. Good Luck with that business... I hope not to have another year like last year with this Mask Crap... I rebuilt my immune system before the season and, wasn't wearing a mask , and destroying what I had done to not have to live with a face condom on.. I can't believe what is going on in this Country, but, if things don't straighten out pretty quick, and it looks like the Deep State gets away with what they have done, I'm just not quite sure what I am going to do.. But, if I have to move to a different State or Country for that matter, I am just idling right now, wondering which way I am going to go.. Sure as heck don't want to try to find employees under a Biden Admin..
I built them in my shop. I wrote how I did it in the pinned article here.. If you try to build them, just know, whatever your stake pockets are, they are probably not all the same, so, whatever your design is, make sure it is "flexible". You will understand when you read my pinned comment. There would be no way to build something like this and mass produce it. Each of my pockets were slightly different, so, each one was custom fitted, because, I hate shit that rattles on a trailer.. Ha..
Ha..Ha.. I had to read that a few times.. :) Geeeatyet?? If not, come on in and get you a bite.. Ha..Ha.. Love those Mind Design projects.. Take them on the fly.. Get an idea and see where it takes you.. Yea.. That one turned out pretty cool.. If you have any trailers with wood on them, the stuff I use to treat wood is "The Best".. Never found anything even close to it.. If you have wood on a trailer that sits outside,, check it out.. I still have not re-treated the trailer, but, would have, but, just testing it to see how long it lasts.. It still is not showing any signs at all of rot, etc.. But, I would treat it every 3-5 years none the less.. Probably 5 years would be good, but, 3 would be better.. Cheers! The boards on this dump trailer still look new, but, they are not laying down either, but, are under a tree, so, the only grime I have on them is on the top edges, and some small amount on the sides, where something fell and laid over the sides when I was not paying attention. But, from 20 feet away, they look brand new.. Cheers again!!
Yea.. It's a game of give and take.. Keeping it behind the tow vehicle is the key. I always cross my safety chains under the tongue. That way, if it falls off, it is in a chain cradle and stays behind the truck. You can break and it will slide forward and,, if they are snug, and not too loose, should bind up before the trailer gets too far under the truck, hopefully keep the tongue off of the ground and you can brake it to a stop.. But, if the damn thing goes crazy, sometimes it is best to let it go.. Hopefully off through the woods and not into oncoming traffic.. If you are not cris crossing your safety chains,,, start today.. Also, no looser than the chains need to be to let you turn all the way left and all the way right.. Any safety chain of a reasonable size should hold 8k lbs, if it is not whipping around back there.. I learned my lesson pulling a 20' aluminum boat and had loose safety chains,, too long.. It went side to side and I was damn glad when it ripped the tongue off and went down the hill.. It was a new truck and I was having a pretty hard time holding it on the road.. Never again my friend..Ha..Never again!! Good Luck!! BTW.. The bolt in the tongue on the trailer just snapped off to start the whole ordeal.. Wasn't my boat, but, I hooked it up and didn't see anything wrong with it... It was the bolt that held the nut that pulls the lip up under the ball that broke.. I had just crossed a little bridge on the road which bounced the truck/trailer up and down a bit.. Nothing drastic.. Which,, thinking about it now, the tongue weight had to be a little light too.. Hmm..
The black metal 2" x 4" Rectangular tube that sits between the wooden panels and at the ends and corners of the trailer?? I bought the rectangular tube, cut them to size and welded the caps on the top and welded the positions in them, and welded the bottoms and ground them so they would fit perfectly in each of the positions.. I seriously doubt you could buy a kit that fits well.. People who build trailers don't use jigs, or don't pay attention to using the jigs well enough to be able to buy anything but a custom solution these days.. I bought a pretty expensive Paladin Attachments "Kodiak" HD 7 box blade for my tractor not too long ago.. The damn thing was off 1/4" here and a 1/4 there and we are talking 7" x 34".. I did a bunch of mods on it to get it to work better.. It's kind of handy when you can do metal working.. Not super expensive to get started.. Arc Welders are cheap.. Harbor Freight Mig Welders are good and less than $200.. A grinder, etc,, and you are started.. Can't afford to pay a shop to do something like this job, unless you just "Have to Have it".. Lots of time involved.. Probably took me a full day to get the stakes built. But, it was my time and not some Shop Rate per hour.. Cheers..
It’s a shame you us have to spend thousands of dollars on a trailer then a couple thousand more to make it function the way you need it. Thanks for the ideas, really good video
Thanks for the Comment.. Yea.. If you had to pay someone to do the welding, the whole deal would be $2800 I would imagine.. I had 2-1/2 days in the build, and, a couple of nights treating the wood with my trailer board mix.. Treating it would not be part of the deal though. Still looks really nice and no signs of any rot, etc.. I use the sides often.. I have a trash trailer about the same size... I'll pull off one side, pull them side by side and toss all of the bags from one to the other, so, I can just dump it at the dump vs had unload/load into a compactor.. Saves me a lot of time... Removing the sides is really nice.. A worth while upgrade.. I also have a small terramite (Front end loader/backhoe).. I always remove the sides if I have any rock, etc, to dump in there to keep from banging up the bed... Nice also to have some tie downs, but, have only used them a few times.. Usually, something I have to tie down, I take my 18' Tandem axle Lawrimore.. Good Luck with your project.. If you are in Western NC, I would do the job, I think.. It takes quite a bit of fitting, but, I could do it without all of the figuring this time.. Ha.. It was a mind design.. Something I wanted, not sure how to get it done until I started on it.. I over built the first two or three metal stakes. Didn't need all of the extra work I did.. The rest were much easier, once I figured out where the problems were going to be.. Lots of grinding to get it to fit in the stake bodies.. None of them were exactly the same, and most were not square.. Still can't figure that one out, unless it pulled when it was welded up.. Never did really look at that, but, highly possible..
Sorry.. I did not see your question.. I am in far Western North Carolina.. I thought about that.. Doing everything except the treating of the wood, I would say, it is worth $2800 to build it again.. Materials and Labor, but, not 10 or 12 coats of the wood treatment. That takes a good while itself, applying, waiting for it to soak in, etc.. Easy work, but, time consuming.. Best done by the owner of the trailer.. Not anything technical about it.. I just used a 4" foam roller and a chip brush to get into the cracks... Cheers!
I made them.. They are 2" x 4" rectangular tubing with some 2" flat bar welded to the sides to accept the wood panels. 3/4" x 3/16" angle welded inside of the 2x4, and goes down into the 2x4 rectangular in the dump body..
How did I build this: I wrote an email explaining it, so, figured I would post it here..
I have attached two pictures, but, let me tell you what you are looking at, and why, because, I can describe the two pictures to you just as well as you seeing them...
The trailer pockets are the same material as what I am using on top of them for the risers that hold the D-Rings and wood panels.. In my case, on this trailer, they are Rectangular Tubing of 2" x 4" x some thickness, which I can't remember off of the top of my head, but, I would say a gauge less than or equal to 1/8" thick.
All I am doing is putting some flexible extensions on the bottom of my uprights, that will slide down into the stake pockets in the trailer...
Why did I say "Flexible"?
If you have done any amount of welding, then, you understand "Warpage from Welding", or/and, these pieces of metal are not "Dimensionally Perfect"..
So, the first one I made, I had an idea to put a rectangular plate on the bottom and do it that way...
Make the rectangular plate fit very well, weld it to the bottom and push it down in..
That obviously didn't work because, everywhere there was a weld, that held the rectangular to the trailer, it was warped to some point that would stop the tight fitting rectangular.. So, this had to be done a different way...
I needed something flexible, I needed something that would fit inside of the same piece of rectangular down in the bed, and, I wanted it to fit the inside corners that are not 90degree sharp corners, but, have a radius...
So, I chose a 1/2" x 1/2" Angle, in a thickness o 3/16 or 1/4", which I had both on hand and used both..
The extra thickness allowed me to grind the 90 degree outside corners from the sharp edges to a rounder radius edge to fit the inside of the Rectangular tubing inside of the bed..Something with some level of flex, but, once fully inserted down in the pockets, would be very sturdy..
I think I made them 20" long each x 4pcs each piece of Rectangular, and left 2" in the ends of the risers where I welded them inside of the Riser's Rectangular Tubing... Before I did that, I had to take the grinder and round off the outside edge (90 degree sharp edge), to give me a rounder radius that would fit the inside corners of the Rectangular tubing.. I was able to weld 2" up into the riser rectangular to get a good weld.. I could have drilled holes in the Rect Tube and plug welded it, but, I got good welds on it, so, was not necessary..
So, I did that 4 times on each stake, took each one to the trailer, slid them down into the stake body, and used the grinder to grind a rounder radius, to the outside edges, where the slipped down easily and smoothly.. Then,, I took a stick, wrapped a small rag around the end, taped it, put some axle grease on it, and mopped the inside of the pockets and 1/2" angle, so, they would not rust and freeze up down the road, and could be taken in and out easily...
Each one of the risers was built for each of the holes, and didn't fit perfectly in the other holes because of the welding warpage when the trailer was built, so, I welded the positions of the stakes on the top cap of the risers, so, I would know exactly where they went, if I pulled them all out at one time..
Board wooden panels... I used 5/4" treated deck boards which are a true 1" thick.. Rect Tubing is 2" thick.. So, just needed a little play room for them to slide in and out easily, after I treated them with the Kerosene/Hydraulic fluid treatment, which will make them a little thicker, but, not much..
So, I needed to add about 1/8" width to the 2" thick rectangular tubing to give me an 2-1/8" opening to slide the 2-1/16" wide deck board panels in..
So, I took a piece of 1/2" flat bar, 1/8" in thickness and welded it to one side (directly to the 2x4" Rect,, under a piece of 2" x 3/16" flat bar.. On the other side, I just welded the same 2" x 3/16" flat bar directly to the side of the 2x4" rectangular.. So, by adding the 1/2" x 1/8" thick flat bar to one side, I went from a 2" width for the panels to a 2-1/8" panel spacing area... It's not that difficult.. More grinding to fit the risers into the stake pockets than anything.. That is where I spent most of my time.. But, they all fit perfectly...
Hope that helps..
I went ahead and attached a few more pictures of when I was assembling.. When I was doing the clamping, I was trying to decide how much extra room I needed over the 2" wide thickness.. You can see the one of the back was sticking out a bit much.. The boards were warped a bit.. I think I ended up doing a little grinding on the wood to thin in out before I treated them, or, I figured they would straighten out once they were installed and sat in the sun and rain for a while.. I don't remember which.. But, I remember grinding one of them because, it was overly thick and all of the rest were perfect.. Seems like the wood boards were thicker, or warped, I can't remember, but, wasn't bad enough to make me want to replace or swap the boards.. Remember, we are talking about something over 1/8", so, not that big of a deal to trim down..
I sent the pictures of the D-Rings.. I had a bunch of these I took off of some rafts before disposing of them, and seemed like a good way to use a few..
I pull them quite a bit.. I have a covered trash trailer that I accumulate trash in, then, I pull the sides off, and back up next to it and toss everything over into the open trailer, because, I can go to town myself and dump it all in a minute or two, rather than stuffing into the compactors and waiting for it to compact, throw more in, compact, etc.. I just back up, push the button and a minute later, I'm empty.. Ha..
Well worth the time to build it.. I also use it when I load dirt/rocks with my front end loader to keep from dropping big rocks into the bed and distorting it.. I put the sides back on before I leave to go dump it.. One other consideration. I loaded a bunch of limbs/leaves one time, way over the top of the sides, and was going to tie ropes and pull it down tight.. Ended up pulling the sides up, so, some tie downs on the trailer below the sides might be a good edition if you are going to do that..
Jww
All in all I like your improvement sir
Nice job
Great work.
Thanks August.. I like your intro video... Wow,, your cameras go through hell flying to the ground on those cut pieces... Total Adren junkie I see.. You gotta have big ones.. I know when you work it every day, you get pretty good at it, but, in your line of work,, you don't get too many chances to make a simple mistake.. Stay safe my friend...
Great video.
Nice work, you’re very creative, cheers.
Thank you..
That looks and works great. Nice job.
Mark you did a great job and gives me some insight on what I'll do since I'm getting ready to but a dump trailer myself.
You won't regret being able to remove the sides, and the spare tire,, I thought about it for a good while before I finally figured out it would fit perfectly under the trailer.. I hate being without a spare.. Seems,,, if I don't have a spare,, I am going to have tire problems,, and if I do,, the spare will dry rot on the trailer, and never get used..Ha..Ha..
I'm sure you will like what you do with the mods.. I have a small Terramite T5C front end loader/backhoe and taking off the sides does two things for me.. When I load stuff with Rocks/boulders, I can set them down, rather than drop them, and save the bottom of the bed of the trailer.. It also helps me to see exactly how I am loading the trailer.. I get perfect pulling loads every time, and I have loaded the trailer way over limit several times...
When I got the trailer, it had sides, but, not removable... Didn't take me long to decide what I wanted.. Now, I have an old Ford 3910 Tractor with a Front End loader and large backhoe.. Even though it is much, much larger, I still remove the sides, or one side when loading for the reasons mentioned earlier.. I don't use it all of the time, but, I really don't care.. The first big job I did with it around here, I figured,, it paid for itself, and now, I use it a couple times a year at best.. But, I may use it for a week or two on a project too.. Lots of freedom when you have one..
Don't forget to watch my other trailer deck board video... I treated the boards on this dump trailer when I did the mods and it still looks brand new, and sits outside 100% of the time.. (Under the trees) Best way to treat.. Much better than Diesel, Oil and Diesel, etc.. I have tried them all... This mix is hands down the best of everything I have tried over the last 30 years.. Wish I had time to post more videos.. I have a crap load of them waiting for me to have more time to work them and post them..
Glad you stopped bye.. Good Luck with your new trailer..
Thanks!
I want some of them metal steak pocket post man for my 6x12 dump! Did you fab them up or order them?
I built them.. Not all were the exact same size and some were not perfectly rectangular.. I found something that worked and built all of them the same way.. Look for my pinned comment starting with "How did I build this: It worked perfectly.. Second mind design nailed it... I explain it in detail.
Nice job!!!
man that is a really nice trailer. love the mods on it. I hope I can get me a decent used dump trailer soon. if not I will just rent one.
Wished we lived closer.. I'm sure we would Swap here/swap there... You could use it when you needed it.
I bought it used for an upcoming job I had. Needed to haul in some road bond and small gravel in smaller amounts at a time and haul out a bunch of rock infested dirt to a guy who wanted it down the road.. Had a slide behind my bathhouse that we were jackhammering out, so we could get my little Terramite T5C down in there if it ever happened again.. Was going to take a week or better if we had good weather, which is never the case during the fall/winter..
Finding Trailers: There are two states that border us who do not require people to title/tag their trailers, so lots of trailers with no titles in those states.. Most people won't fool with them.. But, with the proper paperwork, you can get them licensed in the state here.. I drove 2 hours to pick it up.. Got a pretty good deal on it. I feel like it paid for itself the first couple of jobs.. Shame.. I only use it 6 or 10 times a year, and some of those are just out of convenience.. Something hard to justify unless you have a regular need for one.. They don't haul anything near a Dump Truck load.. But, handy none the less.. I regularly haul 5 tons (10k lbs) loads when I am using it to dress up the drive ways and parking lots.. You don't need sides for hauling any kind of Rock/Dirt, etc.. But, for hauling lighter debris, trash, etc.. very handy.. But, when loading, so nice to be able to pull the sides and sit the rocks down, rather than dropping them from 2 feet high.. Also, fits a cord of split wood nicely...
You definitely want both axles with brakes on one of these when you fill them up.. But, usually very easy to add brakes to the second axle if it does not have them already.. Just some things to consider.. Mine is a 12k pound trailer which has a 6' x 10' bed.. If you spread a load of Road Rock flat in the back of the trailer, it would be about 14 to 16" high to get around that 5 ton load to give you some idea.. So, if primarily hauling Rock/Gravel/Dirt, I would go for a 14K of the same size vs 12k, but, these are mostly utility dumpers, so, the heavier ones are not as common. I passed on a few 14k trailers until I figured that out and then, never saw one again.. I looked at them for about a year before I finally "had to get one".. Thanks for the comments.. Glad you liked the mods.. They were the best way I could see to get the job done..
Good setup -- Cheers
Awesome.. Hope you can use some of the ideas to make some cool mods to yourself.. It's always nice to use something after some useful mods you made yourself.. If I am loading the trailer with my terramite or my larger tractor, I almost always remove at least one set of side boards.. Keeps me from dropping anything heavy from a greater height.. Saves wear and tear on the bed.. Cheers and Good luck with your mods..
@@MarkThomas123
Started a 5 by 8 dump a few yrs back - got most of the base done -- now researching how I want to finish the upper -- I like the removable sides idea.
Cheers
@@patrickmckowen2999 .. Oh yea... You will absolutely Love them... Well worth the time and effort. I am sure you will agree.
So the metal stakes are something you fabricated mostly yourself?
ForFoxSake. Yes. Correct. I made them all myself. I used 3/4 × 1/4 angle welded inside of the 2x4 Rectangular tube.
Had to grind the 90 degree edge of the angle to get a good fit.
Hope that helps.
@@MarkThomas123 Thanks, I saw online that some companies make the stakes for trailers like this but they are ridiculously overpriced.
@@HexaFox Yes. I agree.. But, I can tell you that, if it is a one size fits all solution, it won't fit "every" trailer well.. I have a Bri-Mar 6'x10' Dump Trailer, and although it is a good trailer, build well, etc,,, a one size fits all solution would not have worked.. The distance between the upright stakes were not the same on both sides, so, had I not checked, and built all of the Board Panels the same, they would not have fit.
The 2x4" rectangular tube that was welded to the sides of the trailer where I slid the metal stakes into the pockets were welded heavy on one side, then, the other, so, they were surely out of square/rectangle, and each one had to be fitted to the hole. Buy building them myself, I was able to compensate for that by grinding off the center sharp edge of the angle that went up into the vertical square tube I added, so, it fit flat against the inside.. Then, drilled some holes and plug welded the top of them.. I only went up into the 2x4 rect tube about 3", but, it was too far to get a good weld, so, drilling a hole and plug welding worked out great..
So, basically, I ground down the sharp edge on 3" of the angle going up into the 2x4, so, the angle where it exited the 2x4 tube, the sharp edge of the 90 degree portion of the angle was actually past the outside diameter of the 2x4, and had to be ground down to fit the 2x4 stake pocket.. I ground each of them (4 pieces = 1 each inside corner of the 2x4 rec tube, where I welded in the 3/4" x 3/16(corrected, not 1/4)thick angle). So, a bit of grinding on each piece, but was able to get them to fit perfectly.. Then, I took a stick (1x1" ripped on a table saw), and taped a sock on the end, and put some bearing grease on it and mopped it up and down the trailer stake body to get it fully covered, then, the same with the angle.. It's been a couple of years now, and, still no rust, and they slide easy..
On the two rear stakes, I fitted a piece of 2" x4" x 1/8" flat bar between the 4 pieces of angle and ground it down to fit.. I was thinking it might need some extra strength, but, that is when I found out that the Rectangular tube wasn't rectangular from the factory, from the way the mass welded them together.. That took a heck of a long time to get both of them right.. The middle ones, I just used 4 pieces of angle sticking down only welded inside the riser 2x4 rec tube, and that was more than strong enough, so, that is the way I would do all of them again, if I ever did it again.. It took me a little extra time, because it was a "Mind Design" project. I just knew I wanted stakes and board panels and went out and figured out the best way to do it. Next time, I would already know.. Ha...
You could do this yourself... All you would need would be some 2x4" x 1/8" rectangular tube, 3/4 x 3/16" angle 4pcs each upright, and about 24' of 2"x 3/16" flat bar for parts, and a 4" angle grinder with a 10 pack of cut off blades, and a 10 pack of Grinding disks, and you could grind/fit/drill all of the parts and take it to a welder, and he could weld everything up in 2-3 hours, and you could go home and grind the bottoms of the angle and make everything fit.. Then again, you could get an Arc or Mig welder from Harbor Freight and give it a whirl yourself.. :)
But, you could do it with 2x4's and some strips to fit the rest of the pockets and come out fine too.. Should last a while if you treat it, and you cap off the vertical end grains of the 2x4's with some sheet metal..
If you really want it to last, make it from treated wood, let the wood dry out a bit after you cut it (stand it on end while drying), then, get some plastic roof cement (roofing Tar), and put it in an old 1 gallon Ice Cream bucket, and keep mixing gas with it, until you can paint it on with a cheap paint brush... It will dry and get hard, then, you can grease the piss out of it where it goes in the hole, and hope you don't have to drill it out if you ever have to remove it.. (what I had to do to the boards that were there that I had to remove.. Ha..Ha..
Either way.. It's a project you can surely do, if you take your time, and would be well worth your time doing it.
I use my trailer at least once a month to haul off my household garbage to the dump.. They have an elevated dump station where I can dump into the back of an 19 wheeler below.. If I leave it in my trash trailer and go by myself, I have to unload each bag and stuff it in a trash compactor and keep running back and forth punching the crush button, and on both sides of the trailer.. I just park the dump trailer next to it and pull one side of the boards of and move everything from the trash trailer to the dump trailer before I go.. Then, all I have to do is back up, let the tailgate down and hit the lift switch and dump it all at one time and go..
Other times of the year, I use it every day for a week or two, and periodically, several times per year for a load here and a few loads there maintaining my property.. It's hard to justify the expense if you are not going to use it quite a bit, but, you will surely find things to do with it,, if you have one.. Ha.. :)
Just remember.. A welder, a carpenter and a Surgeon all use the same basic set of tools.. Two eyes, two hands, and two feet, and what little we use of our brains.. So, there is nothing anyone else is doing, that you can't also do.. It's just the matter of "I can" before the "I do".. I have not gone to school for anything that I do, and I generally do a better job than those who have.. One thing about teaching yourself.. You never know when you know enough, and no one is telling you that you "Can't" do this and "Can't do that".. I have drank quite a few beers showing guys who were told in welding school that you can't do this or that, so, they never tried.. And, I say, shit, what do you mean you can't do that.. Get me a beer and I'll show you it can be done.. Ha.. If you buy a stick welder (arc), get some 1/8" 6011 welding rods and don't buy any other rods.. I can promise you,, you can weld whatever you want (mild steel) with it.. from a gauge steel to 1" or more thick..
Same thing with a cheap Harbor Freight Mig Welder or "Flux welder without Gas".. I have done it too many times.. HF makes a good little mig welder.. A good plasma cutter too, but, the Cut 50's on Amazon are so much cheaper and they work well too.. Good Luck.. Hope things work out for you.. I'd better get back to work.. Upgrading all of my computers to Windows 10 finally.. Still have some work to do.. Would much rather be out welding something. But, have to build some cabinets and drawers to do some organizing first.. Ha.. Cheers!!
@@MarkThomas123 Thank you for the reply. If one thing is clear it is how passionate you are about this kind of stuff. I was also thinking about how a one size solution would not fit all either for this very reason. It is funny you mention it I was just looking at a Bri-Mar 6x12 dump trailer for my business. The stakes that I saw were way too expensive. It looks like you have to purchase them in pairs and they are like $200 a set or something unbelievable. Also you said you greased them? Can I ask what you used? I would imagine if these are not greased they would be destroyed in quick order.
@@HexaFox I greased them with Axle Grease or Wheel Bearing Grease.. It was to allow it to slide easily without the chalkboard screeching effect, and to keep it from rusting and getting stuck due to the rust.. A little bit of rust can swell things pretty quick and jam things up.
I just put a sock on the end of a stick, mopped on some grease (sticking the stick/sock into the can of grease and rolling it around, and then mopped the inside of the stake receivers, and the angle iron that was going to slide down in them.. Works great..
I have played around with all sorts of paint and prep.. It's hard to beat regular Walmart $0.99 per can spray paint. Seems the Rustoleum, no matter how much you prep it, still rusts much faster than the cheap walmart paint. The only thing I have found better (much more expensive) is a commercial product called MCU or Moisture Cured Urethane, and in the heavy silver metal filled flake paint, which you have to vacuum seal, or, fill with a gas heavier than air, and has a shelf life, at best of about 1 year, if you do a great job keeping the moisture out.. Nice thing though, you can paint anytime it is above freezing, and that is when I get to do most of my work.. Winter time.
I used the Walmart Rattle cans on the trailer, because I knew it would be in the weather full time and I wanted to test it again.. Still looks great..
If you are going to use wood, even treated, you have to seal the end grains, and, I have not found anything better than the Hydraulic Oil/Kerosene mix that I use on my trailer decks. I have a video on it when I did my 18' tandem Lawrimore utility trailer.. Just search for Trailer and you should find it. Still on the first application.. Just keep putting it on, until it won't soak up any more and, it should be good for 3-5 years or more.. If you really want to take care of it, recoat somewhere between..
Get the size you need.. If you are looking at hauling really heavy stuff, might go with a 6x10 instead of a 6x12. The payload is higher on the smaller trailers in the same Axle weight class because the trailer weighs more, so, less overall left for payload.. You will never fill up any dump trailer with Sand/Gravel, and won't need sides really..
But, if you haul removed roofing or limbs, lumber scraps, nice to have sides due to the volume vs weight..
10,000 lbs or 5 tons of gravel is about what my 6x10 is rated for plus the 2k for the trailer, and, there is a hump in the middle from to rear, about the height of the metal sides, and then, it rolls over to the sides, usually no more than 3-6" high on the sides (loaded by a huge Front End Loader). By no means full. Something to think about. Make sure you get one with brakes on both axles, unless you are pulling with a 1 ton truck. You never know when you will need that extra braking power, and, the tow vehicle pulling 12k lbs sure can use it, and make sure your tow vehicle has full time power to one of the pins to keep the battery charged while using it.. It is usually the top right pin when looking at the female plugin on the back of the truck standing where the trailer would be. Some times people don't worry with hooking them up, but, you need it on a dumper.. They are pretty rough on a battery. And, keep the battery charged and don't let it sit with a low charge for long periods of time.. The Sulfation will get it, but, you can put a 200 amp charger on it for 30 minutes at a time, letting it cool, tapping on the battery while it is charging and knock the sufates off, and bring a bad battery back to life.. Leaving it in a discharged state is what causes the to Sulfate at a much higher rate..
I have learned lots of things over the years.. A lot of it, the hard way.. Ha.>Ha.. Some of those points are worth writing down somewhere and looking at them every now and then until they become healthy habits.
Good Luck with that business... I hope not to have another year like last year with this Mask Crap...
I rebuilt my immune system before the season and, wasn't wearing a mask , and destroying what I had done to not have to live with a face condom on.. I can't believe what is going on in this Country, but, if things don't straighten out pretty quick, and it looks like the Deep State gets away with what they have done, I'm just not quite sure what I am going to do.. But, if I have to move to a different State or Country for that matter, I am just idling right now, wondering which way I am going to go.. Sure as heck don't want to try to find employees under a Biden Admin..
Where did you get those pocket stakes for side boards?
I built them in my shop. I wrote how I did it in the pinned article here.. If you try to build them, just know, whatever your stake pockets are, they are probably not all the same, so, whatever your design is, make sure it is "flexible". You will understand when you read my pinned comment. There would be no way to build something like this and mass produce it. Each of my pockets were slightly different, so, each one was custom fitted, because, I hate shit that rattles on a trailer.. Ha..
Do the chain hooks go up or down
Safety hooks go up first, then over. Straight down in the holders while not being used.
Ehhh looks like you got something up there doncha ol boy
Ha..Ha.. I had to read that a few times.. :)
Geeeatyet?? If not, come on in and get you a bite.. Ha..Ha.. Love those Mind Design projects.. Take them on the fly.. Get an idea and see where it takes you.. Yea.. That one turned out pretty cool.. If you have any trailers with wood on them, the stuff I use to treat wood is "The Best".. Never found anything even close to it.. If you have wood on a trailer that sits outside,, check it out.. I still have not re-treated the trailer, but, would have, but, just testing it to see how long it lasts.. It still is not showing any signs at all of rot, etc..
But, I would treat it every 3-5 years none the less.. Probably 5 years would be good, but, 3 would be better.. Cheers!
The boards on this dump trailer still look new, but, they are not laying down either, but, are under a tree, so, the only grime I have on them is on the top edges, and some small amount on the sides, where something fell and laid over the sides when I was not paying attention. But, from 20 feet away, they look brand new.. Cheers again!!
Add upgrade my safety chains. I had four tons on mine. It broke loose and it ripped my safety change like they were butter
Yea.. It's a game of give and take.. Keeping it behind the tow vehicle is the key. I always cross my safety chains under the tongue. That way, if it falls off, it is in a chain cradle and stays behind the truck. You can break and it will slide forward and,, if they are snug, and not too loose, should bind up before the trailer gets too far under the truck, hopefully keep the tongue off of the ground and you can brake it to a stop.. But, if the damn thing goes crazy, sometimes it is best to let it go.. Hopefully off through the woods and not into oncoming traffic.. If you are not cris crossing your safety chains,,, start today.. Also, no looser than the chains need to be to let you turn all the way left and all the way right.. Any safety chain of a reasonable size should hold 8k lbs, if it is not whipping around back there..
I learned my lesson pulling a 20' aluminum boat and had loose safety chains,, too long.. It went side to side and I was damn glad when it ripped the tongue off and went down the hill.. It was a new truck and I was having a pretty hard time holding it on the road.. Never again my friend..Ha..Never again!! Good Luck!!
BTW.. The bolt in the tongue on the trailer just snapped off to start the whole ordeal.. Wasn't my boat, but, I hooked it up and didn't see anything wrong with it... It was the bolt that held the nut that pulls the lip up under the ball that broke.. I had just crossed a little bridge on the road which bounced the truck/trailer up and down a bit.. Nothing drastic.. Which,, thinking about it now, the tongue weight had to be a little light too.. Hmm..
Where did you get the metal stakes?!?
The black metal 2" x 4" Rectangular tube that sits between the wooden panels and at the ends and corners of the trailer?? I bought the rectangular tube, cut them to size and welded the caps on the top and welded the positions in them, and welded the bottoms and ground them so they would fit perfectly in each of the positions..
I seriously doubt you could buy a kit that fits well.. People who build trailers don't use jigs, or don't pay attention to using the jigs well enough to be able to buy anything but a custom solution these days.. I bought a pretty expensive Paladin Attachments "Kodiak" HD 7 box blade for my tractor not too long ago.. The damn thing was off 1/4" here and a 1/4 there and we are talking 7" x 34".. I did a bunch of mods on it to get it to work better.. It's kind of handy when you can do metal working.. Not super expensive to get started.. Arc Welders are cheap.. Harbor Freight Mig Welders are good and less than $200.. A grinder, etc,, and you are started.. Can't afford to pay a shop to do something like this job, unless you just "Have to Have it".. Lots of time involved.. Probably took me a full day to get the stakes built. But, it was my time and not some Shop Rate per hour.. Cheers..
Who are the 7 Jacka$$es that thumbed down this video. Thank you for the video Mark
Agreed. Awesome mods
It’s a shame you us have to spend thousands of dollars on a trailer then a couple thousand more to make it function the way you need it. Thanks for the ideas, really good video
Thanks for the Comment.. Yea.. If you had to pay someone to do the welding, the whole deal would be $2800 I would imagine.. I had 2-1/2 days in the build, and, a couple of nights treating the wood with my trailer board mix.. Treating it would not be part of the deal though. Still looks really nice and no signs of any rot, etc.. I use the sides often.. I have a trash trailer about the same size... I'll pull off one side, pull them side by side and toss all of the bags from one to the other, so, I can just dump it at the dump vs had unload/load into a compactor.. Saves me a lot of time... Removing the sides is really nice.. A worth while upgrade.. I also have a small terramite (Front end loader/backhoe).. I always remove the sides if I have any rock, etc, to dump in there to keep from banging up the bed... Nice also to have some tie downs, but, have only used them a few times.. Usually, something I have to tie down, I take my 18' Tandem axle Lawrimore.. Good Luck with your project..
If you are in Western NC, I would do the job, I think.. It takes quite a bit of fitting, but, I could do it without all of the figuring this time.. Ha.. It was a mind design.. Something I wanted, not sure how to get it done until I started on it.. I over built the first two or three metal stakes. Didn't need all of the extra work I did.. The rest were much easier, once I figured out where the problems were going to be.. Lots of grinding to get it to fit in the stake bodies.. None of them were exactly the same, and most were not square.. Still can't figure that one out, unless it pulled when it was welded up.. Never did really look at that, but, highly possible..
Very nice walls .😍😍😍
How much you will charge yo do this in my trailer?
Thanks. And GOD BLESS YOU
Sorry.. I did not see your question.. I am in far Western North Carolina.. I thought about that.. Doing everything except the treating of the wood, I would say, it is worth $2800 to build it again.. Materials and Labor, but, not 10 or 12 coats of the wood treatment. That takes a good while itself, applying, waiting for it to soak in, etc.. Easy work, but, time consuming.. Best done by the owner of the trailer.. Not anything technical about it.. I just used a 4" foam roller and a chip brush to get into the cracks... Cheers!
@@MarkThomas123 THANK YOU!!!!
Hey Mark, where did you get those metal sleeves fabricated to accept the wood sides you built? LOVE that concept!!! Great Job!
I made them.. They are 2" x 4" rectangular tubing with some 2" flat bar welded to the sides to accept the wood panels.
3/4" x 3/16" angle welded inside of the 2x4, and goes down into the 2x4 rectangular in the dump body..
Put a chain in my pins or they'll end up disappearing