Great work on the tractor! Thanks for sharing. The issue with the rear tires spinning is a result of the master/slave control of the rear hydrostat. The rear hydro is responding to loading in the front hydro by increasing swash plate angle and speeding up the rear wheel. This would work well when traction is balanced, but just like an open diff it will have problems when there isn't balance. I suspect you will also find that if one of the front wheels is off the ground only the front wheel will spin and the rear won't respond as it will need to see pressure building in the front hydro for it to respond. I think more could have been done if appropriate heavy duty cables were used, ones with solid shafts. Also I do have concerns with the u joint angle at steering extremes. 3600 rpm is a lot of speed for that angle. But is seems to work. Also beware torsional vibration at angles due to the asymmetric u joint angles. It could cause pump damage.
you hit the nail on the head with a hydrostatic problem I just didn't know how to explain it that was a perfect illustration so far I've had no problem with the drive shaft you are right with oversteering it I have stopped point on it preventive oversteering I don't know if you ever seen a Cub Cadet 1650 the two mechanical linkages on the hydrostat one of them damper plate there are variations when either rear ends in stress it causes different speed variation I have another solution it might work just ain't had the time to start on it at this moment that is my least problem thank you for sharing your comment
what is McMaster 3125K93 I tried to look it up on the internet and I didn't find nothing excuse my ignorance you have to explain to me in kindergarten level or give me your phone number My email is tractor 1650 @ gmail.com I like the way it works but it gets me an awkward position like you say it is a brilliant design I would like a different approach thanks man
This is why everyone cuts up 2 case hidrive machines instead of dealing with the issue using 2 deere or cub sunstrand setups. Youve got the high center joint speed and 2 swash plates to syncronize and get centered up for parking without creep. On case axles you just run one hydrostatic pump and plumb the axle motors in series. Nice build for what you had to work with. I find 6gpm is the right pump size for -4 and -6 sized cylinders. Used to think i needed 10gpm but it just makes for jerky controls
That’s dirt that’s been sitting a little bit has stuff growing in it lol so that’s way harder to get into I’m super surprised at how well that did! Keep up the awesome work!
I turned 20 last month. Im currently building an 80s job deere 108 rider that I have pulley swapped, atv tires, bumpers, winch, exhaust, and light bars.
ironic as this is I am looking for somebody to give my tractor to when I die I don't want The Scrappers get ahold of it my two sons can care less about it my wife don't give a damn about it I've been looking for a male or female has a passion for tractor I think you are my candidates I am not planning on dying here shortly I am 62 I am already seeing death looking at me who knows maybe 20 or 30 years or sooner think about it you will
@@jamesjohnson6593 Hey man. Been a couple years since I last talked to you about this tractor! Still in love with it! Finally got my hands on a 1986 CC 1512 with the kubota Diesel engine! So fun. I came across this video again and had to watch entire build series again. Love the build and what you said to me 2 years ago has stayed with me and I truly appreciate that gesture from you. Still stands. Please email me at rcphenatics@gmail.com to get ahold of me. From there I can give you better means of contact!!
I watched the whole series of videos, which are awesome by the way, great work. I am another Engineer and I reviewed the hydraulic diagram he sent you. It is a brilliant solution, but It does have limitations.
A simple solution to the spinning tires, might be to lock the rear differential, by welding the spider gears. Most of any load is on the front tires, so locking the rear axle shouldn't cause a traction or steering issue in most situations.
the way is plumbed up if I load the backend down to front wheel spin is plumbed up with two hydraulic cylinders working with each other long as the front and the back feel the equal pressure it will work in unity
Hey man! I remember talking to you awhile back about this machine! How she going? Still running and working well? I would love to own this machine! So cool!
It bothers me how light your rear end is, need to add water back into the rear tires and maybe some weights. Just shows why wheel loaders are built the way they are with the engine on the back, so the configuration isn't ideal. Still it's too bad it's hard to synchronize the front and rear speed. Clearly the front axle wasn't running out of traction when digging, but the rear was. Still a cool project, I'm hoping to start on one myself one of these days. Got an old 149 I'd also like to make a loader backhoe out of.
I've got a 149 with a dealer installed vintage danco on it ..imho best money spent would be buy a towable backhoe because being able to take the machines apart is way more useable...I've also got a big backhoe but to me the towable backhoe makes sense because you can use a thumb on the towable to drop it right in the loader bucket
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
Thanks for this video. I bought the same pump. Well it’s the 9 gpm . But anyway this helped me out sir. Thanks a million I was about ready to use it for a trot line weight. Btw that’s a very cool tractor. 4wd plus pivot rear end 😎
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
this was a hydraulic engineer told me basically what I said his analysis is much better than mine he said The issue with the rear tires spinning is a result of the master/slave control of the rear hydrostat. The rear hydro is responding to loading in the front hydro by increasing swash plate angle and speeding up the rear wheel. This would work well when traction is balanced, but just like an open diff it will have problems when there isn't balance. I suspect you will also find that if one of the front wheels is off the ground only the front wheel will spin and the rear won't respond as it will need to see pressure building in the front hydro for it to respond. I think more could have been done if appropriate heavy duty cables were used, ones with solid shafts.
Oh buddy you're in Florida. Im in southeast idaho. Not only that im afraid if I offer it won't be worth the blood sweat and cursed language you've spent on that thing.
This is almost unbelievable to watch. My hats off to you.
thank you very much I appreciate it
Amazing to see it working after all you have done so far. You sir are an artist!!! Love your videos and look forward to watching them
thanks for the comment
@@jamesjohnson6593would like to help me out with my 1250 IH I just don't know my hydraulic system.And I don't know what i'm doing
I don't understand what I'm doing.This is my first international harvester.Cub
Great work on the tractor! Thanks for sharing.
The issue with the rear tires spinning is a result of the master/slave control of the rear hydrostat. The rear hydro is responding to loading in the front hydro by increasing swash plate angle and speeding up the rear wheel. This would work well when traction is balanced, but just like an open diff it will have problems when there isn't balance. I suspect you will also find that if one of the front wheels is off the ground only the front wheel will spin and the rear won't respond as it will need to see pressure building in the front hydro for it to respond. I think more could have been done if appropriate heavy duty cables were used, ones with solid shafts.
Also I do have concerns with the u joint angle at steering extremes. 3600 rpm is a lot of speed for that angle. But is seems to work.
Also beware torsional vibration at angles due to the asymmetric u joint angles. It could cause pump damage.
you hit the nail on the head with a hydrostatic problem I just didn't know how to explain it that was a perfect illustration so far I've had no problem with the drive shaft you are right with oversteering it I have stopped point on it preventive oversteering I don't know if you ever seen a Cub Cadet 1650 the two mechanical linkages on the hydrostat one of them damper plate there are variations when either rear ends in stress it causes different speed variation I have another solution it might work just ain't had the time to start on it at this moment that is my least problem thank you for sharing your comment
what is McMaster 3125K93 I tried to look it up on the internet and I didn't find nothing excuse my ignorance you have to explain to me in kindergarten level or give me your phone number My email is tractor 1650 @ gmail.com I like the way it works but it gets me an awkward position like you say it is a brilliant design I would like a different approach thanks man
Sorry, it is a McMaster Carr PN for a bulkhead mounted control cable with a 150lb rating.
This is why everyone cuts up 2 case hidrive machines instead of dealing with the issue using 2 deere or cub sunstrand setups. Youve got the high center joint speed and 2 swash plates to syncronize and get centered up for parking without creep.
On case axles you just run one hydrostatic pump and plumb the axle motors in series.
Nice build for what you had to work with. I find 6gpm is the right pump size for -4 and -6 sized cylinders. Used to think i needed 10gpm but it just makes for jerky controls
That’s dirt that’s been sitting a little bit has stuff growing in it lol so that’s way harder to get into I’m super surprised at how well that did! Keep up the awesome work!
I turned 20 last month. Im currently building an 80s job deere 108 rider that I have pulley swapped, atv tires, bumpers, winch, exhaust, and light bars.
ironic as this is I am looking for somebody to give my tractor to when I die I don't want The Scrappers get ahold of it my two sons can care less about it my wife don't give a damn about it I've been looking for a male or female has a passion for tractor I think you are my candidates I am not planning on dying here shortly I am 62 I am already seeing death looking at me who knows maybe 20 or 30 years or sooner think about it you will
@@jamesjohnson6593 could you email me? rcphenatics@gmail.com
@@jamesjohnson6593 Hey man. Been a couple years since I last talked to you about this tractor! Still in love with it! Finally got my hands on a 1986 CC 1512 with the kubota Diesel engine! So fun. I came across this video again and had to watch entire build series again. Love the build and what you said to me 2 years ago has stayed with me and I truly appreciate that gesture from you. Still stands. Please email me at rcphenatics@gmail.com to get ahold of me. From there I can give you better means of contact!!
You just keep making this thing cooler and cooler. I want it man.
hey it's the Price Is Right you can walk away with it tonight make offer
That’s pretty darn cool the guy is a engineer for sure needs some counter weight in the rear
yea buddy,all that work finally paid off!!!! great job,you have achieved what you were talking about
yeah but it ain't over I have other problems to work out this whole tractor is been a big challenge thanks for watching my video
Hey mister Thomas I am curious how you know how I got it plumbed up do you know Mr Colin Hart just curious thanks man please comment
I watched the whole series of videos, which are awesome by the way, great work. I am another Engineer and I reviewed the hydraulic diagram he sent you. It is a brilliant solution, but It does have limitations.
McMaster 3125K93 could maybe work. To link the two hydros.
Hey bud it would look really cool turn the exhaust up 👆 like a big tractor
it looks great to me, beats the heck out of a shovel..
hey you got that right thank you very much
A simple solution to the spinning tires, might be to lock the rear differential, by welding the spider gears. Most of any load is on the front tires, so locking the rear axle shouldn't cause a traction or steering issue in most situations.
Dang James I love it good work imagine if somebody was driveing that beast at ya flaking that clam shell RUN!😀
I thank you for your comment man
Very nice
I have 3 Cubs myself and I'm looking towards building a 4wd
I would love to see that thank you for watching
Been following this for a while. Great work!
thank you very kindly
4wd? Those front tires aren't spinning! How come?
The only thing I wish is would have used 2 beaters and save you beautiful other tractors
I noticed you say it's four-wheel drive but when you're digging into the sandpile the tires on the front never spin
the way is plumbed up if I load the backend down to front wheel spin is plumbed up with two hydraulic cylinders working with each other long as the front and the back feel the equal pressure it will work in unity
look at 36 and 37 episode and it will explain everything it's a warning be four-wheel drive thanks for watching
Another great video young man
appreciate the compliment that young buck
Hey man! I remember talking to you awhile back about this machine! How she going? Still running and working well? I would love to own this machine! So cool!
The machine been setting up about 3 years it's all rusted hadn't been moved and it looks sad but thank you for asking about it
I would have resdesigned that elbow fitting before i milled that lever stock.
I think the videos are just fine.
thank you very much man
Very good job.
It bothers me how light your rear end is, need to add water back into the rear tires and maybe some weights. Just shows why wheel loaders are built the way they are with the engine on the back, so the configuration isn't ideal. Still it's too bad it's hard to synchronize the front and rear speed. Clearly the front axle wasn't running out of traction when digging, but the rear was. Still a cool project, I'm hoping to start on one myself one of these days. Got an old 149 I'd also like to make a loader backhoe out of.
I've got a 149 with a dealer installed vintage danco on it ..imho best money spent would be buy a towable backhoe because being able to take the machines apart is way more useable...I've also got a big backhoe but to me the towable backhoe makes sense because you can use a thumb on the towable to drop it right in the loader bucket
Great job!
thank you kindly sir
That thing is just way cool!
thank you very much
Is your front axle not hooked up? Doesn’t look like it’s working
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
Don't see front tires spinning
Thanks for this video. I bought the same pump. Well it’s the 9 gpm . But anyway this helped me out sir. Thanks a million
I was about ready to use it for a trot line weight.
Btw that’s a very cool tractor. 4wd plus pivot rear end 😎
you are welcome in a Million glad I could be some help thanks for watching the video
Nice job
Thank you very much
That talk cracked me up
You still have this beast?
yes I do this for sale
Is it 4wd? I didn't see the front tires spinning at all.
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
JAMES johnson thanks, good buddy.
hey I forgot to reply back to you thank you very much
Why are the rear wheels spinning and the fronts not?
yes it is 4 wheel drive the way it's set up is causing a problem the back is so light it is shifting the hydrostatic in full speed giving you the illusion of a two-wheel drive I've been working on this problem about a year I think I might have an answer to solve this illusion it is working like a open differential between the front and the back just like your car does one tire on the road one-time the mud one tire grips the other one slips in the mud giving your car illusion of a 1 wheel drive if I could weigh down the back end the front tire will spin fast vice versa thanks for your comment
this was a hydraulic engineer told me basically what I said his analysis is much better than mine he said The issue with the rear tires spinning is a result of the master/slave control of the rear hydrostat. The rear hydro is responding to loading in the front hydro by increasing swash plate angle and speeding up the rear wheel. This would work well when traction is balanced, but just like an open diff it will have problems when there isn't balance. I suspect you will also find that if one of the front wheels is off the ground only the front wheel will spin and the rear won't respond as it will need to see pressure building in the front hydro for it to respond. I think more could have been done if appropriate heavy duty cables were used, ones with solid shafts.
@@jamesjohnson6593 you are doing an outstanding job,, I've been around farm, logging and heavy earth equip. all my life and I know you are 👍👍
Should have used hard line so you would much more space.
you are probably right on that if I decide to keep it on might do it and still lines I appreciate your comment
That's awesome.
I thought it was supposed to be four wheel drive
Ya'll comes back now yah hears?
Haha very sweet
Cool project. Those hydraulic lines and fitting aren't hydraulic rated.
you need weight on the back
Need to weight in the back
ye sir
very cool
Oh buddy you're in Florida. Im in southeast idaho. Not only that im afraid if I offer it won't be worth the blood sweat and cursed language you've spent on that thing.
thank you very much by the way how old are you I do have a reason to want to know
Im 100% thats a bi directional pump
alrighty then
Junk