Very clear explanation! Well done. I have a bit of a different problem, whereas my ecu and engine / distributor are OBD1 but my car is OBD2B as well as the engine harness. The ODB1 ecu is not going to send the tachometer info to the tach cluster so the blue wire needs to be connected to the blue test wire next to the driver side shock tower. It a bit of a hassle, but changing my distributor or my wiring loom makes no sense so I will probably have to splice a wire between those two connections.
Simply run the BLUE rpm wire from distributor to Blue test plug on LH shock tower. I would run the wire along factory harness and tape into it for a more factry look Good Luck! Thanks!
I will do. Have asked Rywire the same question, and they deny that the blue wire has to be connected to the blue test plug but that the igniter and tach wire on the distributor have to intersect. Abd that is all you have to do. I have asked them twice. So I dont know if they are correct but will try both solutions and post what is the solution here.
@@erikthehondaguy7766 if the tach wire is not on the harness the easiest place to grab from is that test plug. otherwise you have to follow wiring up to cluster. some cars do not need this some do
Hey do you have any advice for me ? I have a 2000 crv 5 speed had been sitting for a while now. Just put a b18b1 engine on it and did everything. Crank sensor I mean everything. Even checked and tested my distributor. Even tried my friends b18 computer from an integra and it does the same thing it does with my computer which is a b20 computer. Cranks. I’m getting compression ! Fuel but no spark to my spark plugs. Would this be what I need to do in order to receive spark?
Yes. In many cases the plugs are different such as CRV or Prelude models. Also the jumpers are known to be prewired incorrectly as well. Also Jumpers cost money and you have to wait for them to arrive. Jumpers also add unsightly bulk wiring to the engine bay.
@@ILLmadebeats The 2 pin connector turns it into a standard OBD1 plug and play connection. OBD1 had the 12v + and the RPM wire seperatly from the main larger plug
@@yaboizgarage9709 that I know but the separate plug with only the rpm and 12v where did you take it from? Also where’s does this separate plug plugs to?
@luiz6089 Cost is nothing. Availability is Immediate. This was garage get it done type of work. We built street cars overnight, we didn't have time to Amazon harnesses... Different times man. Today I would pin my own harness from scratch and wait for custom order molex plugs if I were to work on a project again.
I just took all the internals and wiring out of the obd1 dizzy and put it into a obd2 housing,works great!!
Very clear explanation! Well done.
I have a bit of a different problem, whereas my ecu and engine / distributor are OBD1 but my car is OBD2B as well as the engine harness. The ODB1 ecu is not going to send the tachometer info to the tach cluster so the blue wire needs to be connected to the blue test wire next to the driver side shock tower. It a bit of a hassle, but changing my distributor or my wiring loom makes no sense so I will probably have to splice a wire between those two connections.
Simply run the BLUE rpm wire from distributor to Blue test plug on LH shock tower. I would run the wire along factory harness and tape into it for a more factry look
Good Luck! Thanks!
I will do. Have asked Rywire the same question, and they deny that the blue wire has to be connected to the blue test plug but that the igniter and tach wire on the distributor have to intersect. Abd that is all you have to do. I have asked them twice. So I dont know if they are correct but will try both solutions and post what is the solution here.
@@erikthehondaguy7766 if the tach wire is not on the harness the easiest place to grab from is that test plug. otherwise you have to follow wiring up to cluster. some cars do not need this some do
It is not on the harness no, because the harness is OBD2B. Apparently in Europe, this wire isnt in there. But rywire says it doesnt need to be.
Please help me brother
thanks man...my rpm is now alive
thanks for the help man hopefully i can get my tach to work after running that wire
Should work trouble free! If you have trouble please let us know! We are glad to help! Happy Tuning!
Now can I convert Gsr obd1 distributor to Crv obd2 8 pin
Hey do you have any advice for me ? I have a 2000 crv 5 speed had been sitting for a while now. Just put a b18b1 engine on it and did everything. Crank sensor I mean everything. Even checked and tested my distributor. Even tried my friends b18 computer from an integra and it does the same thing it does with my computer which is a b20 computer. Cranks. I’m getting compression ! Fuel but no spark to my spark plugs. Would this be what I need to do in order to receive spark?
You selling any of those ??I need 1 for a zc engine
Hi
I want to do obd0 to obd1 or obd2, but without changing the distributor.
is it possible ?
because distributors are expensive.
THANKS
Yes, It has the same components
Will this work vice versa for obd1 to obd2
Great!
best vid ive found on this! thanks!
Wouldnt a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness do the same thing?
Yes. In many cases the plugs are different such as CRV or Prelude models. Also the jumpers are known to be prewired incorrectly as well. Also Jumpers cost money and you have to wait for them to arrive. Jumpers also add unsightly bulk wiring to the engine bay.
@@yaboizgarage9709 alright! Also what’s the connector that you have at the end of the blue and yellow/black wires and what does it plugs into?
@@ILLmadebeats The 2 pin connector turns it into a standard OBD1 plug and play connection. OBD1 had the 12v + and the RPM wire seperatly from the main larger plug
@@yaboizgarage9709 that I know but the separate plug with only the rpm and 12v where did you take it from? Also where’s does this separate plug plugs to?
@@yaboizgarage9709 is there any way to dm you it would be easier I could send pics of what I’m talking about
what year was the obd2 distributor?
I just put in a 96’ H23a1 obd2 in my 92’ obd1 prelude... is this the solution to why it won’t start...
It very well could be!
This is not plug and play
wait a sec, why not use the conversion cable OBD2 to OBD1 instead cut, etc?
@luiz6089 Cost is nothing. Availability is Immediate.
This was garage get it done type of work. We built street cars overnight, we didn't have time to Amazon harnesses...
Different times man. Today I would pin my own harness from scratch and wait for custom order molex plugs if I were to work on a project again.