The WORST Socket Wiring I Have EVER Seen!
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2024
- This must be one of the WORST socket wirings I have EVER seen😱! In the latest Artisan video, we see Jordan, Lee and Reuben carry out an EICR and fault find and we end up finding some shocking discoveries throughout the video.😬 So make sure you like and subscribe and enjoy the video!👍
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 - Introduction
02:23 - Neat or not neat
05:15 - Jordans wisdom
08:36 - Sponsor time
12:18 - Master testing the Apprentice
14:01 - SHOCKING DISCOVERY
15:14 - Tradify
17:05 - Time to test
19:04 - Finding a cave of wonders
23:30 - Finding an issue
28:00 - TOOL OF THE DAY
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I've been working for a small firm this week and they have done the latrene twinning thing. It's a small thing for us with our luxury of running clean water and flushing loos, for the people of many developing countries luxury starts as soon as they put walls around the hole in the ground. A few quid to make the lives of less well off people cleaner and more comfortable.
How did i find this channel and realise that it's 2am and I'm STILL watching your videos.... damn you for making them so good
😂
So many comments about the telephone.... simply because it is an analogue phone and will work without power... most people have cordless now, but it's always good to have an emergency phone that will work in a power cut.... simples
Just want to say it would be an absolute privilege to get to work with you and your company. Never seen anyone working so meticulously. Just wish I was 16 again and living across in England. Would sign up for an apprenticeship with your company immediately. Where was RUclips over 20 years ago, with people like yourself making videos, to show recluse country folk like myself, that a career actually does exist! 😂
6:06 New procedure: Check for current on main bonding conductor with clamp meter before disconnection. Possibility of diverted neutral current. Oh what fun! Play safe.
It's lovely when earth is no longer earth isn't it - efixx just had a piece on this in their news about the sheer number of PEN faults the DNO's are getting nowadays.
Jordan, your videos are very instructional, nicely edited and above all, fun to watch. Cheers mate, you are doing a great job!
Another great video guys, loved it. Really great to see all the procedures with detailed explanations. Great
Sometimes I don’t know how you lads know where to start, to decipher some electrical installations, well done. 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
They often sound like me and my immediate colleagues in my last job before retirement. We were mining social care and other local authority data systems - all deep legacy, catered for many years of changing regulations, way out of date, data entry often by social workers. We put ourselves into the minds and and messy office situations of the system users, the developers who had to modify the systems to allow data entry of new regulatory practices, the IT department who always lied about everything, and, hey presto, we found issues that mere rote data mining and reporting tool development would never have identified. Undergirding all that, we all lived in the area and had neighbours, friends, relatives who depended on good social care, enforcement and safety, planning, and building control so we pushed hard for robust quality. The last few years were depressing - senior management changed and, with it, the ethics changed totally. Glad I took early retirement.
Great video, love watching the testing side of things too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
100% agree, Bounties are disgusting!
Another great video respect to you and your team. I really enjoy your videos.
Nice to see a professional at work , sometimes it seems like we live in Texas in the UK with the number of cowboys masquerading as tradesman out there !
Absolute fantastic video showing and thoroughly explaining some of the testing involved. IB < or equal to IN is only a fraction of the start of max demand formula i try my best to keep lodged in my small brain and it really helps when trying to figure out if existing circuit breaker is adequate when upgrading an electric shower. Thankyou and keep up the excellent work Artisans of MONTE Cambridge.
Rather than trying to memorise the factors for each set, which I never can; in that case, r2= r1 x (2.5/1.5) so just plug in the sizes written on the cable and it's works out the same.
Holy sheet it does 😂😂 I'm sure that was taught in college but always just remember each set and now I can forget them 😅
Excellent as always and even better thinking about the swifts!
That's a good one... the AC loosens connections because it's oscillating. lol Who ever told someone that? Yes, connections do get lose over time, sometimes due to the heat cycling or the wire cold flowing, but from the "vibrations" of AC??? That's a good one, is that on the master test too? lol I hope that was a joke.
This may be a cause but at very high amperage into 1000amps 😊.
More likely in domestic thermal.effects
Completely agree, worked on industrial systems upto a couple of thousand amps and connections not coming loose all the time. If this was the case we would have streets of houses burning down because of bad connections and no checking for 10 years. The worrying thing is some people on here believe this.
Not sure what I think of this YT channel now. I started watching some of the videos and found it quite interesting but the ' worst ever this and that' is turning me off. Some of the claims and info is simply opinion and some far too pedantic. Sometimes I think drama is added just to make a video, which is probably a better earner than the work now - shame really,
@@scherry5135 Yeah, I almost turned off the video when he said that. I was like is this for real?
But when tech channels start making content, just to make content quality always goes down. Not saying that's what's going on here. Yet.
I tell you Ruben is an asset and credit to the company.
Really?? 🤨
absolutely fascinating, love it
18:35 LOL you looking at that MK plug and saying it's old. Bakelite and threaded screw-posts where the conductor wraps around the post that is getting old...
Top Tip! Always keep a garden trowel in your meter cupboard just in case there’s an electrical emergency
I think the top tip, is always tip your tradesmen, and chocolates are a great way to do that.
Also, a small garden fork is very useful for R1 + R2 and ring continuity testing etc
Its amazing that you can't have a regular outlet in the bathroom, but you can have a 9KW electric device in the shower with the person is perfectly fine and only an RCD with up to 30mA of current before it trips. 😲☠
The difference is the shower is a permanently installed device, designed and waterproofed for that location. If you were allowed a regular outlet in the bathroom people would plug in all kinds of devices with the potential for them to fall in the bath or get wet potentially making them live.
@MattF340 But for some reason you're allowed outlets right next to your kitchen sink. I guess you don't fully immerse yourself in the water when doing the washing up, but still... 😂
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Are RCDs/GFCIs not required for kitchen outlets where you live? It's a code requirement everywhere in the US (basically for anywhere that's considered a "wet area", which both kitchens and bathrooms are), so I assumed it was in the UK/Europe/etc too...
Misconception regarding sockets in a UK bathroom, it is allowed, but has to be a minimum of 3M from any water source, very few UK bathrooms are big enough to allow that.
Also, a fun fact, Jordan mentions AC currents causing screw terminals to come loose over time. This is primarily caused by something called Magnetostriction. As the AC current induces a magnetic field in the terminals this causes the metal to change shape. This effect can be so large that you can even hear it, if you have ever been close to a substation or large transformer inside a building's HV room you can literally feel the hum coming from the iron core!
Magnetostriciton is only found in transformers and the like with ferrous cores. It wouldn't occur with brass screw terminals where there is no wound core
@@RichardKeightley-ky6fx incorrect, brass is still subject to magnetostriction, but Brass has minimal magnetostrictive effects due to its non-magnetic properties, its just more pronounced in ferrous metals.
The heat/cool cycle (expansion/contraction) in the conductors/terminals will have a greater effect on the terminal tightness than any potential negligible magnetic influence
Yeah, while magnetostriction is theoretically possible in copper conductors, you would need a _lot_ higher current than this for it to have any detectable effect (I'd guess tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of amps). It almost certainly is not actually a factor in these sorts of applications.
This is far more likely due to simple vibration from magnetic inductive effects with other nearby conductors. Current flowing through the wire will generate a magnetic field which causes corresponding electric currents in other nearby wires or metal pieces, which in turn create their own magnetic fields which repel those created in the wire. When the current direction changes, the new magnetic fields in the wire are then _attracted_ to the established magnetic fields from the other conductors (pulling the wire towards them), until they exhaust them and set up opposite currents in the surrounding metal, which produce opposing fields (and push it away) again, and the process repeats.
(This is also why many smaller (non-substation) transformers often hum or buzz, too. It's actually not the core changing shape, it's just the wires in the coil vibrating as they're pulled and pushed away from each other (and the core) by the magnetic fields.)
Haha love hearing all the British-isims when you guys refer to some of the bad wireing. 😂😂😂 Love watching your videos from the US
Bounty for the win 👍🏻
Gotta be a PLAIN chocolate Bounty.....!!!
Those pull cord shower isolators usually have loose connections when you go to check them - I don't think it's so much the tiny vibration from the 50hz sine wave, it's more to do with the pull cord itself - pulling at the fitting on the ceiling, loosening it and then it pulling on the wires. Combine that with condensation/steam from it being on the ceiling in a bathroom with a shower, and you get green copper corrosion on the wires and terminals, increasing contact resistance, heating up the terminals / wire and the resulting thermal cycles also loosen the connections.
I hate the things tbh, they always end up with burnt wires (usually neutral) & corroded connections. Much better to have a switch isolator on the wall outside the bathroom.
Just had that done on our new shower, we got through 3 pull isolators in 10 years, switch outside much better.
Tado is excellent indeed. User for 7 years and I am happy I got in before the subscription fees :p
Great video.
Bounty!
Glad you enjoyed the video
Tado is great but does not support multiple properties. So you have to sign in and out to switch between properties. Great video guys! Also don't shame the bounty bars, they are the best...
jorden I knew an old electrician who wired multi lamp ceiling fitting in bell wire! current CSA but poor insolation, he could not work out why it would blow occasionally
Bounties for the win!
I am not saying the part at 14:01 was done by whoever installed that beautiful kitchen, but what I will say is I have seen more dodgy wiring following kitchen refits than I care to count (the work I do takes me into other peoples homes, and no, I'm not an electrician).This is both pre and post Part P. One of my client paid a small fortune by going to a top-end kitchen supplier, and as always it comes down to the installation of same. Despite the cost, the backs of the units are still cheap hardboard, and why anyone would think that makes a sound surface to attach an electrical accessory to is anyone else's guess (though I see it often), but what really grinds my gears in that house is that the warming tray under the oven is required to be run from either a 13 amp plug socket or a 13 amp FCU, and as such was supplied without a plug. Whoever fitted it attached a plug (nothing wrong there) but made no effort to shorten the long inner cores on the end of the flex that were left exposed from the factory...as such there is now a 13 amp plug in society with at least 2 inches of inner cores poking out the bottom it.
Ive read a few comments about the tails. One being code 2 and other bring code 3.
So i would look at it like this they have 100amp max incoming but what do they have that could max it out. Modern oven 20amps max electric shower 20amps ish. That still leaves a large amount. Depends on load. If realistically could reach 100amp code 2. If very unlikely to exceed 80amp code 3
I would have thought any care home worth its salt would require all equipment brought in by residents to be PAT tested. That lamp fails on visual inspection, you don't even need to get the tester out. The reason for arc fault detectors in care homes is that a fire has potentially worse outcomes. Imagine trying to evacuate a large number of people with limited mobility from the property. Hence anything that might reduce the need to do that is worth it.
Nice one guys 🇨🇮😎
Ivory coast
You should use a clamp meter on the tails and the DNO earth before you disconnect from MET. This helps check for diverted neutral. John Ward explains this in a few RUclips videos
Theres a picture online showing 80amps 😂 flowing thru the earth so diverted netrual are out there..
Was on a electrical forum
It seems the diverted neutral phenomenon is almost guaranteed where you have a PME system with metal incoming pipes - at least in theory.
Definitely an eye opening JW video.
Looking at John Ward's recent video does on Diverted Neutral Current it is important to check for DNC before disconnecting the main earth connection.
Disconnection of the MET could result in in exposing an unintentionally live conductor - the main earth - which is carrying the neutral return current from neighbouring property or properties.
@@stevejagger8602 it's not major common but as cables age this sort of problem will only increase.
I have seen it only once in 16yrs myself
Skillz 👍
Got to be a TOPIC, the best choc bar going
Not a bad choice at all
Mars bars! No contest!
Been a while since I was a spark but I was always on the line that a bond has to be continuous so if connected in multiple places (like multiple services) then it had to be stripped and looped as one cable, not cut and extended. As such you would then not be able to continue to use that to come off that water bond (if it had one) anyway?
I'm wondering if Artisan should buy the customer snacks, given how much they charge. 😀
3:51 A telephone in the power distribution.
16 mm2 can handle around 60 to a maximum of 85 amps.
Bounty is the best snack!
Bounty Out of the Fridge ... Everyone Loves a Bounty.
At 22:57 That melted 2 way adapter with the WG logo was only ever available from Woolworths, so that will give you an idea of its age! I still have at least one but still in perfect condition.
In denmark if the RCD(30mA) is below 15mA its a fail. but 19 is ok, but a bit low :)
Bountys for the win!
So nice bro
main isolator cover on upside down... very sad sight haha
This is interesting and slightly worrying. I am thinking of having a solar and battery ststem put in, is it mandatory to have this type of inspection done by the installers?
Well I guess that highly depends on the AFDD and whether they have the current firmware updates and what are the current firmware updates have the updates for that particular pattern. And whether the manufacturer actually makes them to actually work. Washing this video after the DSS one.
Back in the day i remember it was quite common to find tablelamps wired in something similar to bell wire. I think it might have been acceptable at some point, but not anymore.
Frequently seen at antique auctions!
It was acceptable - it was called lamp flex! I can’t believe Jordan hadn’t seen it before. Because it wasn’t colour coded, you could end up with the inline switch in the neutral instead of the line conductor. Fitted with a lovely old MK Safety Plug - the king of plug tops from days gone by.
@@frimleyfrodo That cord was definitely not using "lamp flex". Two-wire lamp cord has much thicker insulation and is actually rated for mains voltages. Bell wire is typically only rated for low-voltage use, and should definitely not be used for this sort of thing. You could easily get insulation breakdown within the wire leading to arcing and a fire, just because you somehow pinched it the wrong way, or it got old, or too warm, or you looked at it funny, or...
Dark chocolate bounty is #1
Bounty. The king of snacks 👀
Bounty King here, even better refrigerated mmmmmm nom nom nom 😁
Smart meter engineers can’t upgrade customer side takes when installing meters , that install is the correct way of doing it
Yep, most they will do is run new tails to one side of the isolator - assuming there is one.
Snazzy meter there! My old Megger back in the 70s was a wind up affair.
Red Bounty Bars
the costume was probably on the black phase on the single phase supplier because the only connection on the fuse block was line2.
23:05 That is one thing that I have noticed with the exception of the one house you had to walk away from where the wiring was so bad, there aren't many power strips there in the UK it seems, at least in the homes I have seen in videos.
Here in the USA, if a house doesn't have a handful of them or at least one in every room, something it wrong. Case in point we have 179 outlets (each with two plugs per outlet) / (not including 240V outlets, we have eight 240V outlets from 30A-50A) in our house, and we still have somewhere around 10 or more power strips or extension cords in use all the time. I guess that is the reason for all are AFCI (AFDD) requirements here for pretty much every single breaker now. Our 5mA GFCI (RCD) are required in any damp / wet areas only for the most part.
Keep up the good work! 👍🤠
We certainly do use power strips in the UK. Perhaps we just do a sufficiently good job of hiding them so you don't see them in videos ;). I certainly have at least one in every room except the bathroom, kitchen and hallway. I used more when I lived in a rented property and could not make permanent additions.
One thing that does seem different is that the number of sockets per strip is lower. 4 and 6 are common. Larger numbers exist but are fairly rare. It's common to see power strips daisy chained, though some H&S types frown on this.
We don't go in for high-current sockets in domestic applications. Our driers are lower power than yours to fit within the 13A a normal socket can deliver. Electric cookers here are hard wired.
179..?
@@Nyle95Some areas of the US, the average house is 4000+ square feet, and new construction homes have tons of outlets. 42+ circuit panels are the norm even in a small house. Most new houses are being built with 400 amp service. The size of panel used in the UK for a whole house would be a subpanel for a shed here. So 179 outlets is not that outlandish.
@@theodorgiosan2570 Why do you need so many? Just the size of the buildings?
Combination of the size of the buildings, the code requirements, and people's desire to have "smart" devices and TVs all over the house. The code requires a certain number of outlets per room, either based on dimensions or the type of room/location. Even in the room I am sitting in in my 200 year old house, which is a 10x10ft (about 3x3m) room, has an outlet on each wall, and the wiring is from the 1930s. Modern rooms would have at least 3 or 4 outlets per wall not counting special purpose outlets like TVs. The other thing is, unless you live in New England, some parts of Arizona, some parts of Michigan, and certain areas in California, most power companies will not allow you to get 3 phase service to a house. So instead of a reasonably sized 200 amp 3 phase service for a large house, you end up with ridiculous 400 amp, and sometimes even 600 and 800 amp single phase services. Personally my house here in New England has 3 phase, but even here and even on streets that have 3 phase available, it's rare to see a house with it installed. Most electricians will refuse to do it because "they've never done it that way" or "houses don't usually have 3 phase". So even when the power company is happy to provide it, you need to call a commercial electrician to install it. 400 amp services are typical here because in say a typical new construction 2500 sq ft house for example, you'll have a 36kw+ tankless water heater that pulls over 100 amps, it will likely be heated with all air source heat pumps, it will likely have a 2-4 with garage with 2-4 minimum 50 amp EV charging outlets, possibly a 30 and 50 amp RV outlet by the driveway, fancy electric cooktop, generally 2 ovens in the wall, large fridge, etc. Just huge houses and even if not huge, still a huge amount of electrical devices because that's what people want in new construction.
Should the cable in the summer house be put into some form of conduit? Am I right in thinking that there is the potential for the cable to break down from light exposure.....
The plumber must’ve been out of it when they installed that nest of pipes, how did they think anyone would get to the pump at the back 🤪🤪
No idea
OK Artisans, I have a (genuine) question.
How do you tell what the incoming supply type is? How do you work out what the Ze should be below?
To be honest sometimes the only way I can tell is to take the neutral cover off the cut out! But normally you are not allowed to touch the DNO's kit.
Fortunately for me, I am employed by a DNO so taking a look is not a problem, but the number of "High earth" jobs I get that are just misidentified as TNCS is quite large (especially with council sparks)!
So ........ How do you do it?
Coolest Tradify plug yet?!
Quite possibly 👍
Opening this video up I just know rhat the worst receptacle installation over in the UK is gonna be 10 times better than the worst in the states, and probably 5 times better than the insane pitiful average here in NYC. The stuff I find just in my own apartment/home would make your skin crawl!
Update at end of video: yeah that's not great, but I've seen worse! 4 or 5 times I've pulled a receptacle out that hasn't been touched since it was installed in 1983 and just had some of the wires come out. As in, they weren't really making connection in the first place, and could have caused a fire if someone connected a big load. Bad stuff.
I have seen photos and videos of the other countries around the world and would deem myself mostly lucky haha
@@artisanelectrics @artisanelectrics I envy the UK design with partially insulated plug contacts! I was shocked last year in a pretty terrifying way from a 120v outlet for a gas stove.
If you're someone else reading this, ***absolutely have a licensed electrician do the work for you***.
Someone dropped a stainless steel sheet behind the stove (that we use as a grease splatter shield) and, unbeknownst to me, it landed right on the contacts of the plug.... which was about a centimeter out because it was loose.
*Of course*, our amazing luck was that it didn't conduct enough current to trip the breaker (heavy sarcasm). It just arced enough to eat a big hole out of itself over the neutral. It's not yet code to have AFCIs or GFCI/RCD on every circuit, and it certainly wasn't when that outlet was installed. Which means the stainless steel sheet was still energized to line voltage when I leaned behind the metal stove to grab it.
Zap. 120v across my chest and into the handle of the stove.
That night I replaced that outlet with a better one that is ALSO a combination AFCI/GFCI. It even turns out that that outlet, and half the other outlets, were wired *backwards* by the last person hired to do construction. Insanely dangerous. And it began a long project to improve the electrical safety in my living space way beyond code.
Every branch circuit is getting a hospital grade GFCI with an audible trip alarm at the first receptacle, which is very useful for my elderly parents. Every circuit will eventually get AFCI at the breaker. Every downstream receptacle will be hospital grade or industrial grade. It ain't cheap, but I'll be glad to know that at the end, nobody has to worry about getting a shock, or starting a fire, ever again!
Again, if you're reading this, ***absolutely have a licensed electrician do the work for you***. I *only* do the work that I cannot get a licensed (and competent) electrician to do, and even then, I *only* do the one or two things that I can guarantee I can do safely from an electrical engineering and code perspective.
Sadly, I still catch even the best electricians I can afford making mistakes. Over here, a torque screwdriver is as foreign as it would be to an uncontacted tribe! So I usually have to loan mine to electricians, and make sure they use it.
I love the channel, and love to see a perspective from a different country. I hope you enjoyed the little story there!
Will you be able to do an in-depth video on the tools you are using?
We can definitely plan a video where we look at all the tools we use
@@artisanelectrics It'd be really nice to maybe have it a series between your test equipment, hand tools, and power tools. The range of tools you're showing is stunning!
Many electricians I know come with a screwdriver, a pencil, and a borrowed notepad. 😁
Worst socket wiring I have ever seen was in a neighbours house where some clown had wired a socket into a wooden shed from the house using two lengths of satellite cable, the socket was under a reasonably high load , namely a tumble drier. I was lost for words when I saw the wiring.
I like all the snacks 😂
Fair enough
The customer should be happy they chose fine tradesmen... craftsmen even. 🙂 How long ya been out of apprenticeship boss?
I've seen my fair share of 'worst'.. lousy diy numpty mess - the layer upon layer of chit. the sick feeling of spotting VIR or asbestos... and the can be pain from plumbers. It's why I loathe to work on domestic installations.
Pretty much the same gear and distribution system here (Aus) , with some differences... like Earth conductors in 2.5 and 1.5mm 3 core cable being smaller than A/N. The insulated Earth conductor is always stranded Cu.
Which reminds me - I will have to check the resistance between all the
Earth connections and the Brass Stake that is hammered into he ground.
It has not been tested for 14 years
and I am aware that there s 800mV between CPC and Neutral - and I
have not yet measured the current
which needs to be investigated
Bounty is the best chocolate bar.
Just a quick question from a New Zealander will England move away from the ring circuit to the radial one like down here?
Some people do wire radials it’s just preference
😊radials are great in 4mm b32 mcbs... but have to be careful of derating if theres 100mm of insulation then you need to look towards a b20 radial possible calculation required but it catches people out
If Reuben doesn’t want the bounty I’ll have it 😂😂😂😂
Anyone not wanting their Bounty I’m available to take delivery. Definitely King of the chocolate bars.
For me any of them other than bounty are great. But bounty does divide my household. So they are preferred heavily by some.
Can the oil service pipe be touched when it enters the equipotential zone ? that will determine whether or not a main protective bond is required.
m&m’s out of them are the best
Team Bounty always!!!
At least your invoicing won't be as complicated with Tradify...😉
Agreed 👏
anyone else spotted the old skol phone on the electric cupboard ;) I agree that the king of snacks is bounty!
Seeing that 3 phase head can I ask a question about them please. the 3 phases are rated 100A each but is the neutral only rated 100A as well meaning you couldnt pull 300A in total if you were using it a 3 single phase supplies?
check the DNO incomer cable type.. will answer your question
Hi Jordan. 19ms is a little low for an RCD I think. It could cause intermitent tripping. I usually look for them to be 21 or higher to be ok.
Thanks for the info 👍
See regular 18ms rcd times.
More about having an rcd tripping at a lower test current and causing nuisance tripping😊.
Ramp tests are always useful tests to conduct and and also before doing a rcd test switch it on and off a few times😮
Simple question: In the UK, would a steel beam cross section 1x2 feet rammed into the ground and extended through the building count as an extraneous object need bonding . I'm not i the UK, just professionallu curious .
God I wish we could get three phase in a residential areas here in the USA! I would be all over that. Get rid of all the dumb single phase to three phase converters that don't work near as well as having real three phase. 🤠👍
😂I can get you a cable across the pond cousin.... 😅could take a long time thou and a big go fund me😂
Some parts of the US 3 phase is relatively common in residential. Here where I live we have a 3 phase high leg Open Delta setup, 100A. Due to be upgraded to 200A 120/208Y when the power company has time. As long as you live on a street with 3 phase power lines the power company has no problem hooking you up. Most of the time they do it for free as well because you are increasing the load and better balancing their system. All of New England works this way, most towns have 3 phase on most larger streets.
Hope the customer is not charged by the hour..😂
What's the telephone for in the mains cupboard? Bat phone perhaps 😂
😂😂
Who ya gonna call?......the meter company apparently.
it's the Artisan biscuit and cuppa tea line...shhhh 😊
I haven't checked the comments so someone may have said this already, but for 16mm tails from a 100amp main fuse, I would load test the circuits in that ccu via a clamp tester and ensure the total load doesn't exceed 87 amps.The only other thing I'd mention here is that the service cut out fuse may not necessarily be 100 amps despite it saying so on the carrier.If under 87 amps I'd go for C3 but over 87, I think C1 could be appropriate due to a lack of overcurrent protection
Even if the load isn't _currently_ over 87 amps, that doesn't mean it couldn't increase at some point in the future (if they add more stuff, etc), so testing the current load is kinda irrelevant, IMHO. The fuse rating should _always_ be less than the maximum current rating for any conductor in the circuit it protects, regardless of the current load. That is the only way to protect against possible future hazardous conditions as well.
@foogod4237 On an EICR we are reporting on an existing installation , not what may happen in the future. Any subsequent alterations or additions should be in adherence to reg 132.16 so the onus is on the installing sparky to ensure meter tails, earthing, bonding are correctly sized and do necessary upgrades where needed. I am well aware that the largest component on any final circuit must be the circuit cable but that doesn't apply to my comment regarding meter tails on an EICR.Whether you feel load testing is irrelevant your call, I've done enough inspection and testing training courses where this has always been raised and C3 is the correct classification code.
I’d only code the 16mm tails if the installation would be likely to pull more than 84a which is the maximum current carrying capacity of 16mm tails.
Undersized meter tails (in relation to the main fuse): if no thermal damage, and the calculated max load is below the rating of the tails…..I’d code 3 it with.
Bang on money
C3 not compliant but if fuse say 60 amp or so to match conductor size it fine.
C2 if undersized in relation to cutout fuse😊
How about buying the cameraman a battery powered light? Quite a bit of the video was too dark to see what’s happening plus out of focus due to lack of depth of field from having the lens aperture opened up?
Currently did not have the light with us on that day, plus it was our new apprentice trying out behind the camera for his first longer video haha
Quote of the day 'TRADIFY, is really useful, especially when you wake up late'. 😊
👍👍
The line and cpc twisted together....seen that somewhere else on the net...was to do with unidentified cables/ circuts...think to ensure would cause a deliberet fault. .cant remember all the detail on it ..?
That’s exactly what it is, it’s so it would trip if it inadvertently became live and not just sit there live and exposed. We do a similar thing on the distribution network in a few circumstances.
14:31 Is there an office romance we need to be worried about?
Being in the USA, I not the contrast to the wiring here. It is VERY different. Which is "best" hard to tell given my knowledge of British standards. It would be interesting to find out what Brits thought of USA wiring techniques and standards.
21:13 What they are just taped together, not even twisted? That is like inviting arcing.
No clue, very bad install here
Plain Chocolate Bounty... Food of the Gods!
100%
swapping that tank out would be a chore!
Seems the UK have a lot of really rubbish switchboards and meter setups. In Australia we usually have everything in one outside meter box and switchboard combo metal box. No ring circuits either. Of course if its not a freestanding home you have common meter location and switchboard in the flat. Etc. I think we have it easy. What are your thoughts?
Upgrade to a 3phase supply and fit a 3phase consumer unit.
I agree, if you have incoming 3-phase it's just dumb not to utilize it. If you already pay for it then just use it. Maybe the electrician that installed the panel didn't understand 3-phase.
@@ehsnilsthey’re not paying for it, they’ve only got a single phase meter
How do you price having yourself & an other electrician & lad on the same job?
Hey Jordan I'm with you Love Bounty bars!!
Great to see fellow Bounty fans!
A couple of questions, if I may ...
When you were calculating the current draw for the shower, you used 230V. I believe the lower mains voltage supply tolerance level in the UK is 216V, so is there a reason you didn't use that figure? Was it just to keep things simple for the video?
Is there was a voltage drop between the circuit breaker and the shower, would that cause the shower to draw more current?
How did we end up using Watts for AC systems, instead of Volt-Amperes? Do you ever use VA?
I'm not an electrician but with a resistive load like a shower I imagine the rating of 9000w will be based on its design voltage. Fluctuations above or below that design voltage will result in an increased or decreased kW output from the shower proportionate to the square of the voltage difference. A 10% increase in voltage would bring about a 10% increase in current and a 21% increase in kW output, whereas a 5% reduction in voltage would reduce current by 5% and kW output would reduce by almost 10%. Appliances like TVs and PC's on the other hand tend to draw a constant wattage so any reduction in supply voltage would lead to a proportionate increase in current drawn.