I like your video, thanks. I was looking for methods for checking & adjusting the primary chain alignment, but you didn't cover that - never mind. But that rotor nut tab washer was useless - it's meant to have a tang than locates in the rotor keyway - without this it's just a plain washer that can rotate with the nut, if it decides to unscrew itself!
I would replace the nuts if they are stripped. If the bolts where they screw into are damaged, you will need to remove the whole clutch assembly and replace those.
How much oil did you add to the Primary Case when done? I have a 1973 Tiger 750. The shop book says initially add 350 cc. The shop book says add 150cc to prime, when doing routine maintenance, such as primary chain adjustment. Underseat spec says Prmary Capacity is 150cc. I installed new clutch plates & hub, so should I add 350cc? I think any excess oil in primary is to drain into crankcase, so I can check for Wet Sumping when done. Also my primary cover does not have an oil level plug. Thanks,
Howdy: initial fill pertains to having the cover removed. So all empty you add 350cc. If you drain it to change oil you only add 150cc. So in your case add 150cc. The crankcase and primary are connected so you can’t go wrong anyway. The level is maintained by the holes around the main bearing. The oil pump will pick up any excess and pump it back to the oil reservoir. Cheers
@@benvdh9658 Ben, I had the cover off so I will add 350cc. I figure the new Clutch Plates should absorb some of the oil too. I will drain the crankcase before starting Engine fo check for Wet Sumping. Thanks!
You can if you like. I have not noticed any difference one way or the other with regards to clutch performance. They’ll get plenty of oil afterwards. Don’t use semi or synthetic oil or you’ll have a slipping clutch.
That I know when it's torqued bull shit is what guys say to make them self feel like they are a mechanic. That or they are a cheap ass and won't get the right tools. Just like a guy reusing clutch plates.
Mistakes galore....1/.Sprocket alignment not checked,...2/.Mainshaft nut not torqued correctly,...3/.Steel plated not checked for warpage,...clutch hub rubbers not checked, replaced,...This guy has no real idea.How do I know.....50 years in this trade, that's how I know!
I like your video, thanks. I was looking for methods for checking & adjusting the primary chain alignment, but you didn't cover that - never mind. But that rotor nut tab washer was useless - it's meant to have a tang than locates in the rotor keyway - without this it's just a plain washer that can rotate with the nut, if it decides to unscrew itself!
I would replace the nuts if they are stripped. If the bolts where they screw into are damaged, you will need to remove the whole clutch assembly and replace those.
forgot the pushrod and bearing.
Useful Vid. Thanks
2 of three clutch nuts would not screw back on. Is there a tap that size?
How much oil did you add to the Primary Case when done?
I have a 1973 Tiger 750.
The shop book says initially add 350 cc.
The shop book says add 150cc to prime, when doing routine maintenance, such as primary chain adjustment.
Underseat spec says Prmary Capacity is 150cc.
I installed new clutch plates & hub, so should I add 350cc?
I think any excess oil in primary is to drain into crankcase, so I can check for Wet Sumping when done.
Also my primary cover does not have an oil level plug.
Thanks,
Howdy: initial fill pertains to having the cover removed. So all empty you add 350cc. If you drain it to change oil you only add 150cc. So in your case add 150cc. The crankcase and primary are connected so you can’t go wrong anyway. The level is maintained by the holes around the main bearing. The oil pump will pick up any excess and pump it back to the oil reservoir. Cheers
@@benvdh9658
Ben,
I had the cover off so I will add 350cc. I figure the new Clutch Plates should absorb some of the oil too.
I will drain the crankcase before starting Engine fo check for Wet Sumping.
Thanks!
You don’t need to drain the crankcase. Just observe the oil return in the tank. It should like someone squeezes a garden hose intermittently
This is a wet clutch is it not? Shouldn't you coat the friction plates in oil prior to installation?
You can if you like. I have not noticed any difference one way or the other with regards to clutch performance. They’ll get plenty of oil afterwards. Don’t use semi or synthetic oil or you’ll have a slipping clutch.
Where is the clutch push rod?
Oh bugger! That would explain the gear crunching.
What brand silicon gasket sealer do you use....and how hard is it to get the gasket and sealer off when you take it apart the next time?
You can use permatex. It’s not super difficult to remove. Patience is a virtue with these bikes.
That I know when it's torqued bull shit is what guys say to make them self feel like they are a mechanic. That or they are a cheap ass and won't get the right tools. Just like a guy reusing clutch plates.
Novice,
rudimentary mistakes at almost every point, don't mistake these guys as 'expert'! or you will repeat the operation many times.
Looking forward seeing your video on how it’s done correctly.
Use ATF for primary drive oil.
No ATF as this system uses engine oil from the crankcase & is automatically levelled by 3 holes drilled next to the main bearing.Initial top up only.
Mistakes galore....1/.Sprocket alignment not checked,...2/.Mainshaft nut not torqued correctly,...3/.Steel plated not checked for warpage,...clutch hub rubbers not checked, replaced,...This guy has no real idea.How do I know.....50 years in this trade, that's how I know!
Ah the experts. They never publish anything but are quick to criticize others. Looking forward to your video on how to do it right.
Share a link to your video then.