Hello; the triplex would be endless not with a removable link. Buy Renold triplex chain. That is the only that is the exact dimension. Sprocket, chain and basket (with of course the hub; thrust washer; rollers and key) are fitted together at the same time. Also you can add the drum and bolts too. Far better to retrofit later chain adjuster system. The chain tensioner abutment is different but is it possible to still use these others. If the budget is good; use a N Hyde 7 plates. No more drag or sticky plates and better transmission of the power due to actually acts at the "middle" (more like a new clutch) You know, they are narrow.
Clutch bearing rollers are probably ok but can be checked, specs will be in the workshop manual, most likely the thrust washer is worn, again specs in manual. The bolts holding the front plate on don't look like the correct ones, should be 1/4"unf x 1-1/4 long, no slot on the end! and shallow head. Earlier design was much better had counter sunk screws going in through the front place and the clutch centre was threaded. The clutch spider should separate from the rear plate, it's just a press fit, not machined as one part.
Be sure to tell the owner to use 20/50 motorcycle oil for a wet clutch. Always, before turning the key on, pull the clutch lever in and make sure the kick start lever swings freely. If it doesn't swing freely then the clutch plates are stuck together. Of course you know that if you start the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the plates are stuck together and you try to engage 1st gear it will hopefully kill the engine. Worst case scenario is the engine doesn't die and the bike takes off on you unexpectedly. Ouch!!!
I just looked at an old Primary Chain of mine & there is No Master Link? I have heard of people taking out a link of the final drive chain - due to chain stretch. Maybe it is just a different brand of chain, but I have never seen a master link on a primary chain. I personally would replace the Primary Chain - it is suppose to come off as one piece because it is not suppose to have a removable/master link. I am a little confused? I have a 1973 Tiger 750 - very similar bike.
Interesting, well if the chain shouldn't have a master or 'split' link as I call them, then it is likely I'll replace it as we will be renewing the clutch basket which has the driven sprocket built in. Thanks for bringing this to my attention, I wasn't aware that split link was not factory. Much appreciated Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic When I rebuilt my clutch a couple of years ago - I was able to purchase a clutch hub assembly all put together. I think it is probably hard to replace the rubber shock pieces, without a special fixture? If I ever have to go into the transmission - I will use your video for reference. Thanks!
Hi Andy, The 3 legged spider in the clutch hub should rotate and indeed pull out, yours appears to be seized in which would mean it’s not functioning! Once out check the base plate of hub for flatness to ensure the spider can move freely. The shock absorber rubbers are a pain to refit! I can send a link for a how to vid if you like.
Hello; the triplex would be endless not with a removable link. Buy Renold triplex chain. That is the only that is the exact dimension. Sprocket, chain and basket (with of course the hub; thrust washer; rollers and key) are fitted together at the same time. Also you can add the drum and bolts too.
Far better to retrofit later chain adjuster system. The chain tensioner abutment is different but is it possible to still use these others.
If the budget is good; use a N Hyde 7 plates. No more drag or sticky plates and better transmission of the power due to actually acts at the "middle" (more like a new clutch) You know, they are narrow.
Clutch bearing rollers are probably ok but can be checked, specs will be in the workshop manual, most likely the thrust washer is worn, again specs in manual.
The bolts holding the front plate on don't look like the correct ones, should be 1/4"unf x 1-1/4 long, no slot on the end! and shallow head. Earlier design was much better had counter sunk screws going in through the front place and the clutch centre was threaded.
The clutch spider should separate from the rear plate, it's just a press fit, not machined as one part.
You where rite Andy. It's a 2 Cider video. Very much enjoying the analysis.
A sheet of glass is a good flat surface to
Be sure to tell the owner to use 20/50 motorcycle oil for a wet clutch. Always, before turning the key on, pull the clutch lever in and make sure the kick start lever swings freely. If it doesn't swing freely then the clutch plates are stuck together. Of course you know that if you start the engine when the gearbox is in neutral and the plates are stuck together and you try to engage 1st gear it will hopefully kill the engine. Worst case scenario is the engine doesn't die and the bike takes off on you unexpectedly. Ouch!!!
You can clean the basket edges and reuse it. Also those 20 bearings are good.
Andover Norton do a complete kit clutch shock absorber assembly £148.83 excl bay Andy but it will be a lot for shipping
I just looked at an old Primary Chain of mine & there is No Master Link?
I have heard of people taking out a link of the final drive chain - due to chain stretch.
Maybe it is just a different brand of chain, but I have never seen a master link on a primary chain.
I personally would replace the Primary Chain - it is suppose to come off as one piece because it is not suppose to have a removable/master link.
I am a little confused?
I have a 1973 Tiger 750 - very similar bike.
Interesting, well if the chain shouldn't have a master or 'split' link as I call them, then it is likely I'll replace it as we will be renewing the clutch basket which has the driven sprocket built in.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention, I wasn't aware that split link was not factory.
Much appreciated
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic
When I rebuilt my clutch a couple of years ago -
I was able to purchase a clutch hub assembly all put together.
I think it is probably hard to replace the rubber shock pieces, without a special fixture?
If I ever have to go into the transmission - I will use your video for reference.
Thanks!
Hi Andy, The 3 legged spider in the clutch hub should rotate and indeed pull out, yours appears to be seized in which would mean it’s not functioning! Once out check the base plate of hub for flatness to ensure the spider can move freely. The shock absorber rubbers are a pain to refit! I can send a link for a how to vid if you like.
I think its a wire snap ring holding it in.
Haven’t got your email otherwise I would send you a picture cheers Garry
Ah....we can fix that Garry: andymechanic@live.co.uk
Cheers for the help
Andy
Your channel name is misleading
Hmmmm....you got my attention! In what way is it misleading?
Cheers Andy
You may fined, lunmad Channel helpful?
Hallo