Triumph Bonneville T140 Engine Removal | 1975 Triumph Desert Sled Project Motorcycle Stripdown | 03
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Triumph Bonneville T140 Engine Removal | 1975 Triumph Desert Sled Project Motorcycle Stripdown | 03
In this episode I remove the engine and gearbox from my 1975 Triumph Bonneville T140V. I bought this as a project bike, and when I tried to remove the cylinder head I found that it was stuck solid. It may take some time to resolve that problem, but I want to get on with the rest of the project, so I decided to remove the engine and deal with it separately.
Here are some of the tools I am going to be using for this bike:
Motorcycle lift: ebay.us/xlgM8p
Motorcycle scissor lift: ebay.us/OQBmur
Imperial Combination Spanner Set: ebay.us/gYz85M
Imperial 1/2inch Socket set: ebay.us/jylH05
Imperial Allen Hex Bit Sockets: ebay.us/iFV0OQ
This bike is an import from the USA, and I doubt it had been ridden for over 30 years.
I managed to register the bike within 4 weeks. I explained this in an earlier video we have on the channel which you can watch here: • How To Fill In A V55/5...
Having stripped part of the bike to enable the attempted removal of the cylinder head I had a bit of a head start in removing the engine. In that the fuel tank, rocker covers, exhaust, and carbs have been removed.
Although taking the engine out of a Triumph twin is quite easy, it is usually made harder by years of rust. Luckily this bike although it does have rust, isn’t too bad and apart from the cylinder head most parts are coming apart quite easily.
The hardest, or probably the most annoying part, is removing the right hand engine plate. In principle it is only held on by 5 nuts and bolts, but because of the engineering required to provide a disk brake at the rear with the foot brake lever on the right there is one big problem. The bottom nut and bolt is covered at the back by the mounting plate of the rear brake master cylinder. This takes quite a bit of dismantling to remove. But if this is the biggest problem there really isn’t anything to complain about.
The engine is reported to weigh 130 lb or 58Kg. This is quite a bit lighter than the CB750 SOHC engine. It is probably OK to take it out on your own, but it always helps to have another pair of hands ready if you have a problem. This is even more important if you have any concerns about the cosmetics that may be harmed while you get the engine out. In this case this wasn’t an issue 😀
Overall this job went quite well, the job didn’t expand because something was seized or got broken. I now need to decide which engine stand I am going to use, but I think I might be working on the frame next. I want to get it painted during the Summer, and time is quickly running out.
For more helpful how-to guides and restoration project logs, visit our blog: www.spannerras...
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Had mine since 90 , absolutely love it , rose hard till 01 now redoing it .
Nice that you let it have some time off. Bet it will be better than ever when you are done.
Hey! We are on the same path. I have a -76 T140 project and have similar plans for my bike. Cheers! 🇬🇧
Race.... No only kidding, it will probably take me much longer than you :)
Your techniques and descriptions are excellent, far too many owners resort to violence when heat, patience and the correct tools will do the job without creating work for later.
True, but it does help that I don't have to ride it to work on Monday :) I can remember some desperate times in the past, happy days!!!! I do find patience is a very useful tool, I have had a thought about how I might get these apart, once I have the engine on the bench, but I haven't tried it yet! Wish me luck.
Restoring the same machine now .
I hope it goes well for you. Loveley bikes aren't they!
Les those hard to get bolts on the engine bracket behind the brake master cylinder, weld it in so it becomes captive on the bracket 👍
Seems the way to go, thanks for the tip. I wonder why that wasn't part of the original design, it would have saved a lot of us having a moan about it now. I know they were short of cash at the time, but it wouldn't have taken that much for them to do.
That bolt that you had so much trouble with (24:58). I did battle with that bolt and nut for 2 hours last week. I had to remove the engine plate to get my inner gearbox cover off, so I needed all 4 of those nuts removed. I'm convinced there's no legit way to get to it without removing that master cylinder and the plate that holds it in place, which is a pain. It's a bad design. On mine, the nut was on the inside, which it's not supposed to be. I was able to jam different screw drivers and items down into the narrow crevice enough to put pressure on the nut while I turned the bolt from the outside... a little at a time. If it wasn't a nylock-style nut, it might have come off a little easier, but there's no way to put it back on without removing all of that other stuff, so I left it off. That outer engine plate has 3 bolts holding it on... it seemed like the 4th bolt was redundant and not really needed. At some point I may try to put it back on, but a better design would be drilling a hole through the master cylinder stay plate and getting bolt long enough to go through both the engine plate and the master cylinder plate. Then you actually get to the bolt head or put a nut on it.
I feel your pain!! We have to remember the company had no money to spend on R&D so it is a miracle that they managed to put a disk on the back. I was thinking of making the rogue nut/bolt captive on the other side for future times I might have to take that plate off. We'll see I will probablly be in too much of a rush to get it back togehter to remember.
Sorry but I can't remember from last time, did you try taking the studs out. even of you only get a 1/4 turn it might be enough to break the corrosion?
I have had quite a go at a couple of the studs with no joy. I don't want to destroy them yet. If it comes to it I might weld nuts on and use a big impact, but I'm not there yet! :) I have an idea for when I have the barrels and head off which might work.
BTW good luck with the project, every where I look I see you hemorrhaging more and more money on this bad boy.
I will do my best to keep track, just as long as her indoors doesn't find out! :)
go to a flea market and buy some second hand BSF and Whitworth spanners, normally cheap and some stuff on the triumphs are still those sizes
Great idea, and I have a selection of "car boot" spanners. I have never had more than the odd Whitworth spanner, never really got on with the sizing. But, boring anecdote, I have swam in a swimming pool, and been in the library that Whitworth built in Manchester, UK for us poor people :)