I've just binge watched this whole series, great work, thoroughly enjoyed the content. I have a 1979 CB900 and you have motivated me to get cracking, and get it finished. Thanks for the informative entertainment and I look forward to the next installment!!
I love a good binge watch myself. I am still not through with the clutch, wait for the next episode. But I should be able to ride it a bit more now. We've been busy with other stuff, so I have only just got back to it this week.
Hi Spanner Rash. This is Andre in Canada again. You had mentioned the difference of the last clutch plate. This is something I've encountered on my CB750 K0 about a month ago when changing the 55 year old clutch fibre and metal plates. The reason for the difference on my K0 was to accommodate a thin ring OEM 22151-300-020 which yours doesn't seem to have. Maybe it wasn't used on later motors? I am a Kawasaki triple enthusiast and my 750 H2s have a similar ring. The purpose is the keep the fingers of the clutch basket from spreading outward under harsh conditions. I don't feel that the CB750 has enough power in stock form to need this but having it, can't hurt. If you have access to a parts book in pdf format online for the year of your motor, you may find the ring has been deleted later on. Great video and please keep them coming.😃
Thanks for the info, you are right, the later ones doesn't have the ring that the earlier bikes had. I still don't know why there is the one different disk. But I have seen a lot of other bikes also have one different clutch disk. I have seen a number of different reasons mentioned online, but not any that make sense.
Hi stripping lots of clutches and normally they are dripping with oil and yours looks very dry and the adjuster was pivoting and not rotating fingers crossed you sort it, I am 18 month into my super sport cafe racer build 👍👍👍
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by pivoting, I'll have to watch the video again to try to see what you mean. I can't wait to getting it going well enough for me to start thinking about the paint.
just binge watched the cb750 vids and wondering were your getting all the parts from as you never seem worried about replacing anything there must be a good uk supplier as i need parts
Two great suppliers if you don't already know. David Silver in the UK and CSMNL in the Netherlands. Both have great availability of lots of parts. CSMNL also has lots of exploded diagrams for virtually every model. Good luck with your build.
Good afternoon, if the clutch cable has an adjuster at the clutch case end, then the clutch case should have threads too so that you can wind the cable in and adjust the slack properly at that end as well. If the cable is not secure at that end, then you'll always struggle to adjust it properly. Have the threads been stripped out on the case? Maybe its just the wrong cable and it needs one with a wider adjuster?
I'm with you. I expected it to thread in, but the threaded part seems to be bonded to the outer of the cable so it wouldn't be easy to thread it in and out. There is a nut that will adjust how far the threads will go into the hole. I'll have to investigate it further when I next have it apart. But I don't think it would have been causing the clutch slip.
@@SPANNERRASHIf you can get your hands on the Honda workshop manual, on page 183, you’ll see that there should be 2 hex ‘nuts’ at the casing end, one with a shoulder. This one slides into the casing up to the shoulder and has an internal thread. The threaded portion of the cable screws into this. The other nut is a locknut which should be on the threaded portion of the cable, fwd of the one that slides into the casing. As you turn the cable it will move out of and into the shouldered nut, giving initial adjustment of cable free play at clutch lever. The manual gives the free play amount. When you achieve this amount you tighten the locknut. The final amount of clutch cable free play is achieved at the lever end. Clutch adjustment is as you say in you video.
@@SPANNERRASH I'm wondering if there isn't a second nut hidden under the plastic boot that butts up against the one visible nut on the end of the cable going into the case. I'll have to peak at my cables when I get home from work.
![Honda CB750 Oil Pump, Primary Chain & Bottom End Check [Cafe Racer Engine Build] 11](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/scAJxUTe2w8/mqdefault.jpg)
I've just binge watched this whole series, great work, thoroughly enjoyed the content. I have a 1979 CB900 and you have motivated me to get cracking, and get it finished. Thanks for the informative entertainment and I look forward to the next installment!!
I love a good binge watch myself. I am still not through with the clutch, wait for the next episode. But I should be able to ride it a bit more now. We've been busy with other stuff, so I have only just got back to it this week.
Every time I see that engine I wanna touch it. Really good looking Honda engine. And master content master 👍🤣
I know how you feel! Thanks for the comment.
Hi Spanner Rash. This is Andre in Canada again. You had mentioned the difference of the last clutch plate. This is something I've encountered on my CB750 K0 about a month ago when changing the 55 year old clutch fibre and metal plates.
The reason for the difference on my K0 was to accommodate a thin ring OEM 22151-300-020 which yours doesn't seem to have. Maybe it wasn't used on later motors? I am a Kawasaki triple enthusiast and my 750 H2s have a similar ring. The purpose is the keep the fingers of the clutch basket from spreading outward under harsh conditions. I don't feel that the CB750 has enough power in stock form to need this but having it, can't hurt. If you have access to a parts book in pdf format online for the year of your motor, you may find the ring has been deleted later on. Great video and please keep them coming.😃
Thanks for the info, you are right, the later ones doesn't have the ring that the earlier bikes had. I still don't know why there is the one different disk. But I have seen a lot of other bikes also have one different clutch disk. I have seen a number of different reasons mentioned online, but not any that make sense.
Hi stripping lots of clutches and normally they are dripping with oil and yours looks very dry and the adjuster was pivoting and not rotating fingers crossed you sort it, I am 18 month into my super sport cafe racer build 👍👍👍
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by pivoting, I'll have to watch the video again to try to see what you mean. I can't wait to getting it going well enough for me to start thinking about the paint.
just binge watched the cb750 vids and wondering were your getting all the parts from as you never seem worried about replacing anything there must be a good uk supplier as i need parts
Two great suppliers if you don't already know. David Silver in the UK and CSMNL in the Netherlands. Both have great availability of lots of parts. CSMNL also has lots of exploded diagrams for virtually every model. Good luck with your build.
Glad to see your progress (havent finished watching though).. however I fear that broken tab might cause vibration in the clutch basket...
Great point! I do intend to get another, but I'm going to hang on until I find one at an autojumble.
@@SPANNERRASH Goodluck! I hope you come right!👌
Thanks.
Good afternoon, if the clutch cable has an adjuster at the clutch case end, then the clutch case should have threads too so that you can wind the cable in and adjust the slack properly at that end as well. If the cable is not secure at that end, then you'll always struggle to adjust it properly. Have the threads been stripped out on the case? Maybe its just the wrong cable and it needs one with a wider adjuster?
I'm with you. I expected it to thread in, but the threaded part seems to be bonded to the outer of the cable so it wouldn't be easy to thread it in and out. There is a nut that will adjust how far the threads will go into the hole. I'll have to investigate it further when I next have it apart. But I don't think it would have been causing the clutch slip.
@@SPANNERRASHIf you can get your hands on the Honda workshop manual, on page 183, you’ll see that there should be 2 hex ‘nuts’ at the casing end, one with a shoulder. This one slides into the casing up to the shoulder and has an internal thread. The threaded portion of the cable screws into this. The other nut is a locknut which should be on the threaded portion of the cable, fwd of the one that slides into the casing. As you turn the cable it will move out of and into the shouldered nut, giving initial adjustment of cable free play at clutch lever. The manual gives the free play amount. When you achieve this amount you tighten the locknut. The final amount of clutch cable free play is achieved at the lever end. Clutch adjustment is as you say in you video.
Shopping for one now! :) I don't suspect this was causing the slip though, there was plenty of play at the lever end.
@@SPANNERRASH I'm wondering if there isn't a second nut hidden under the plastic boot that butts up against the one visible nut on the end of the cable going into the case. I'll have to peak at my cables when I get home from work.
my god, its like watching Mr bean, kill me
I didn't think it was that good, but thanks very much! :) I do hope your wish doesn't come true.