it you are talking about the little rubber cap that's used to plug up the nipple on the side below the heat exchanger tank cap? Sounds like this is what you are asking. I just had one in my junk took box/drawers. You can buy cheaply little rubber vacuum caps: Vacuum : www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-rubber-vacuum-cap/dag0/47388?q=rubber+caps&pos=1 You just need something rubber to fit over the nipple to pull and hold the vacuum. If you are talking about the rubber piece that the vacuum tool uses to match up to hole in the top of the HX tank? My air lift tool from amazon cam with an assortment of different sizes. This was many years ago but I think I recall it being not the snmallest one but one up from smallest to get airlift tool to fit the infiniti HX tank or the radiator overflow tank. Here's a video which wasn't around when I did mine, this is the tool that I have: shoptoolreviews.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing/how-to-vacuum-fill-your-coolant-system/38050/
I have a question.. I happened to be confused.. I repaired my Red Spot after an accident and now I want to fill the coolant in the 3 tank cap.. I was able to fill enough the lower tank on the right, and above the radiator cap.. But my question is about the lower tank on the left and I think it is connected to the turbo.. I was not able to fill it with only 0.5 liters only the tank is full, and I think this is due to an obstacle which is the presence of air in the hoses and paths.. How can I fix this? Can someone explain it to me with pictures or a video.. I did not find any video to help me with this
There are two coolant tanks. Left is the Heat exchanger tank for the twin intercoolers. The one on the right is the car's radiator coolant overflow tank. People have mentioned a technique called burping the coolant hose. Turbos dont get blue coolant sent to them for cooling. They get oil to help cool and lubricate. What many seem to do is fill up the HX coolant over flow tank not full but pretty full. Drive the car around and keep an eye on the coolant tank over flow level. as it drops keep filling to the full mark. Also, there's a method called burping the coolant system which I never used. Best way to do is to use a bleed tool/vaccum coolant tool as I did.
Also, when I filled my HX system up, I did everything I could to put/fill back as much fluid in the heat exchanger part and keep the hoses full when swapping the heat exchangers with hose clamps to stop flow. That way when I put it all back together and seal it up, then I wasn't needing to add much coolant fluid back. While you work out the HX fluid level just don't push your car hard. It should over time, like a few weeks circulate and fill up. If you don't have leaking, coolant leaking into the exhaust, or a porous block issue. Downside is I was told that the bad part of doing the top-off method/wait and see approach is that is the internal hx pump can be one of the dry spots and the pump/motor is lubricated by that coolant flowing. If it's not flowing coolant then the motor can overheat. Overheated then can break. A single Infiniti HX pump/motor I think I recall in excess of $550 to replace.
Some people claim this process of burping the system by disconnecting a hose up topside is a fix but ots a bandaid in my opinion. Some claim just continue to drove and top off and you don't need to top off. I don't know what the best answer is but to pull the air out and replace with coolant like the tool does that uses a compressor. You can try looking up burping coolant system. The youtubers name was Kaydro and he had a redsport q50.
I’m seeing coolant temps that want to stay around 195-215 after a couple hard pulls. Mainly 195-210. On 90 degree days. Is this normal? Could it just be old coolant that needs to be flushed/re filled? It almost seems like my thermostat is stuck or my coolant temp sensor isn’t working properly. I have the bms heat exchanger so I feel like my coolant temps should be lower.
Yes sounds normal. anywhere in the 90's and things start to warm up considerable even though in the coolant world 200 to 220 isn't super warm. 230 to 240 is where I' can get up to on these 103-105+ degree days.
I got mine from Amazon. One similar to the one I got years ago is: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24444-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01BW39HJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=V4UACKAW4I4I&keywords=radiator+coolant+vacuum+refill+kit&qid=1703005604&sprefix=radiator+refill%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
I've made other video in 2019 with this tool and provided link and description but I understand those videos may not have been viewed. Here is the link at Amazon where I bought tool airvac tool that I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m only holding -9 psi. All my fluid that’s in my system goes up and can’t vacuum any more. Do I need to drain my system to get to that -24psi. I have the expansion tank and heat exchanger from Z1.
I would think you should still be able to pull a vacuum higher than that. If the system had bubbles/airpockets and the overflow tank had a sufficient level of coolant then when you pulled the vacuum at the overflow tank, any air pockets should be replaced bt the extra coolant from the tank. Bleeding brakes the same way with the master cylinder. I'd reach out to z1 tech/help and verify too. I am not a master engine tech so what I say/suggest is the best I know.
Hey question got an oil change about 3 months ago & I checked my dipstick today oil level was low... curious is the oil suppose to burn away that quickly & i live in NYC it’s winters now I’m wondering if my car is burning oil or is that Irma consumption??
These cars can consume oil due to the added turbo blowby but you'd have to be driving it hard to see the loss. Fill it back up to the correct level and keep an eye on it for sure. Oil could be leaking out the turbo seals and out the exhaust. If it continues to be dropping a noticeable amount over each month then that is not normal. After a few thousand miles I may need to top off my oil by a small pour from the oil bottle but a small amount. In the winter I've switched to 0w-20 weight oil and for the summer I'm sticking with 5w-30 Quaker State full synthetic Ultimate Durability for turbo engines. I change my oil every 4-5,000 miles because it's pretty cheap to do and will make the car's motor and turbos last longer and run better.
Hey what’s up man I was pretty confused on where I put my anti freeze at.I’m not to familiar with cars never had someone teach me basically learning my self
so there are two tanks with coolant right there side by side in front of the motor. The smaller tank on the passenger side is the coolant for the HX/intercoolers. The reservoir tank on the driver's side is for the block/motor coolant tank. Just fill to mark indicated on backside.
Well I used the Nissan recommended blue coolant just to try and keep the standard but any populat coolant radiator coolant should be fine. If you live in a somewhat warmer climate that doesn't get down to 10 and 20 degrees and below for periods of time you can mix up a batch of 20/70 coolant and distilled water mix that will perform better then straight antifreeze and the 50/50 mix of some coolants.
@@GettingthruLife I was wondering what is the smaller tank for ? There’s 2 of them do I fill both of them up with coolant ?? I’m confused never was taught and I’m pretty young lol
Ok, there is writing on the side of both resovoir tanks that shows where full fill level is. Don't fill higher than what is shows. You will have to bend around, lean over to see the makings, you may need a flash light. Nissan and Infiniti recommend their blue colored coolant so I'm not saying it's ok to fill with a different brand then Nissan's coolant but if you don't have that and need to fill the resovoir containers then another brand of 50/50 -40/60 coolant should work.
I am going to do this procedure on my q50 red sport, did you run the both waterpumps for the heat exchanger? Looking at the proper way to bleed the system is to let both pumps run to bleed the system
I did not do 2 pumps, wasnt a viable option back when I did these HX bleed videos. Now Z1 Motorsports has a dual pump kit anyone can add to any year/model 3.0t Infiniti or I assume Nissan Z. I too wanted to do it right so I bought the tool and did the best to educate myself. At the time when I did this there was like 1 youtube video and it showed some of the process but didnt provide enough.
If you are taking about the compressor I just have compressor's regulator set to about 90psi. If you are talking about the psi on the gauge of the tool sucking the air out of the HX, I see between 22 and 25 psi. I will close the valves and see if the system then holds that psi for 5 min than I call it sealed up no leaks.
If you mean draining coolant out of the coolant bottle into the heat exchanger, it's a combination of visual inspection, assumption, trial and error, and/or repeating process more than once. After filling the heat exchanger system to what you'd expect to be the properly filled level (resivor tank and up to hx fill neck) put the coolant cap back on. Note: You can grab one of the main hx coolant hoses with hand and squeeze over and over while watching coolant level in the tank fluctuate and get a idea if the hose is has certain amount of coolant. Also squeezing the hose with force and may help push coolant to other areas. Once you think you've done all you can at the "fill back up stage", go drive your Q50-60 around 5 min on highway. Come back and check the resivor tank level.a good idea to flip open hood and just keep an eye on. Just good practice to keep eye on the vital signs of your baby. -Oil and coolant
I just looked around my garage where I save little things like this for use at a later time. You could go to Autozone and buy a small rubber vaccum cap. In the old days you could buy individual sizes but these days you got to buy a packet with a bunch of different sizes. Anything can serve to plug up this vent hole. I can just encourage you to be creative but if you don't seal that vent then the air vac tool won't be able to a vaccum.
I have a Porter Cable pancake style compressor between $107 to 139.99. Any compressor will work as long as it's not a janky toy like compressor for the soccer mom to air up her tires for her cigarette lighter on the side of the road.
@@GettingthruLife i just got a q50 and planned on doing the upgraded heat exchanger thats why i ask. It hasnt been delivered yet but would i be able to tell the two apart? Just by following the hoses and whatnot
@gainzter9671 it's pretty straight forward. Now there's more videos for reference. Mishimoto had a good hx install video that I referenced. Tough part just taking off the front bumper skin. Also squeezing into place the hx as to not mush in any delicate cooling veins.
Hey what’s up man it’s me again lol. So I’m a bit concerned. Last night was my first time hitting high RPM’s due to me merging onto the highway, so with that being said, when my car shifted gears in high RPM’s I heard a squeaky noise. I’m aware of the belt issue on these engines, so I checked to see if it was aligned correctly and it was. Unless I miscalculated the measurements. But I noticed a slight decrease on my MPG since I noticed this problem. Did I fall victim to the common belt issue or you think it’s something else? Edit: The squeaky noise only happens when the car shifts in high RPMs because I tried it again after I heard it the first time. Car shifts fine with no squeaks when I’m driving normal and shifting under 3k RPM
I'm no sure about your situation. I don't have any experience with belt slip or the belt being worn out because my car is under 8k. One thing you may try is rev your car in neutral up to 5k and see if you hear belt noise while the hood it up. May be some issue with your trans or the rubber bushings that the trans mounts to the car our your rear subframe mounts to the frame. The rear sub -frame is connected to the frame by floating rubber bushings. May explain why it's happening while shifting, loading and unloading the rear differential. The rear differential is connected to the rear subframe. Squeaking could be coming from this area. I made a video on upgrading my rear subframe bushing collars to the more rigid Z1 Motorsports subframe bushing collars. Try reving your engine with hood open and have a family member in the car reving the motor. Don't rev to 7k but 5k-ish and back down quickly. May need to be put up on a car lift and have a auto professional look at all the spots where rubber bushings are. These things wear out over time due to environmental conditions.
Getting thru Life I did that just right now. I revved it up to 5k twice while on Neutral and I didn’t hear the squeak Thanks for all your help btw, I know I’m asking a lot of questions. I’ve owned two Nissans prior to my Q50 and never had a problem. this is my first time experiencing problems with a vehicle
@@luisiferz if the belt was slipping or on its way out I would think you would hear issues by doing what I suggested. On my '80 and '90 mustangs 5.0's this is when you would hear belt slippage while reving in neutral. As far as other squeaking you just need to isolate where its coming from. Have another friend sit in the back seats during the time when it happens and see if they can pinpoint an area for unwanted noise. Squeaking make me think it's from a part that flexes or rubs. Suspension components can tends to squeak with age. Could be a motor mount on its way out. They have a rubber component that over time can wear out/break down. More motor movement under the hood at higher rpm shifts.
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Can you please advise what size is that rubber plug cap?? or if you do have link where to buy it? thanks.
it you are talking about the little rubber cap that's used to plug up the nipple on the side below the heat exchanger tank cap? Sounds like this is what you are asking. I just had one in my junk took box/drawers. You can buy cheaply little rubber vacuum caps: Vacuum :
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-rubber-vacuum-cap/dag0/47388?q=rubber+caps&pos=1
You just need something rubber to fit over the nipple to pull and hold the vacuum.
If you are talking about the rubber piece that the vacuum tool uses to match up to hole in the top of the HX tank? My air lift tool from amazon cam with an assortment of different sizes. This was many years ago but I think I recall it being not the snmallest one but one up from smallest to get airlift tool to fit the infiniti HX tank or the radiator overflow tank.
Here's a video which wasn't around when I did mine, this is the tool that I have: shoptoolreviews.com/automotive/diagnostic-testing/how-to-vacuum-fill-your-coolant-system/38050/
I have a question.. I happened to be confused.. I repaired my Red Spot after an accident and now I want to fill the coolant in the 3 tank cap.. I was able to fill enough the lower tank on the right, and above the radiator cap.. But my question is about the lower tank on the left and I think it is connected to the turbo.. I was not able to fill it with only 0.5 liters only the tank is full, and I think this is due to an obstacle which is the presence of air in the hoses and paths.. How can I fix this? Can someone explain it to me with pictures or a video.. I did not find any video to help me with this
There are two coolant tanks. Left is the Heat exchanger tank for the twin intercoolers. The one on the right is the car's radiator coolant overflow tank. People have mentioned a technique called burping the coolant hose. Turbos dont get blue coolant sent to them for cooling. They get oil to help cool and lubricate. What many seem to do is fill up the HX coolant over flow tank not full but pretty full. Drive the car around and keep an eye on the coolant tank over flow level. as it drops keep filling to the full mark. Also, there's a method called burping the coolant system which I never used. Best way to do is to use a bleed tool/vaccum coolant tool as I did.
@GettingthruLife
Thank you bro🌹
Also, when I filled my HX system up, I did everything I could to put/fill back as much fluid in the heat exchanger part and keep the hoses full when swapping the heat exchangers with hose clamps to stop flow. That way when I put it all back together and seal it up, then I wasn't needing to add much coolant fluid back. While you work out the HX fluid level just don't push your car hard. It should over time, like a few weeks circulate and fill up. If you don't have leaking, coolant leaking into the exhaust, or a porous block issue. Downside is I was told that the bad part of doing the top-off method/wait and see approach is that is the internal hx pump can be one of the dry spots and the pump/motor is lubricated by that coolant flowing. If it's not flowing coolant then the motor can overheat. Overheated then can break. A single Infiniti HX pump/motor I think I recall in excess of $550 to replace.
How do i bleed of i dont have a compressor? Can i just bleed it the same way id bleed a radiator? With it overfilled till the air bubble come out
Some people claim this process of burping the system by disconnecting a hose up topside is a fix but ots a bandaid in my opinion. Some claim just continue to drove and top off and you don't need to top off.
I don't know what the best answer is but to pull the air out and replace with coolant like the tool does that uses a compressor.
You can try looking up burping coolant system. The youtubers name was Kaydro and he had a redsport q50.
I’m seeing coolant temps that want to stay around 195-215 after a couple hard pulls. Mainly 195-210. On 90 degree days. Is this normal? Could it just be old coolant that needs to be flushed/re filled? It almost seems like my thermostat is stuck or my coolant temp sensor isn’t working properly. I have the bms heat exchanger so I feel like my coolant temps should be lower.
Yes sounds normal. anywhere in the 90's and things start to warm up considerable even though in the coolant world 200 to 220 isn't super warm. 230 to 240 is where I' can get up to on these 103-105+ degree days.
Where do I get that same exact pressure refill tool? Please respond asap. Thank you for your time.
I got mine from Amazon. One similar to the one I got years ago is: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24444-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01BW39HJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=V4UACKAW4I4I&keywords=radiator+coolant+vacuum+refill+kit&qid=1703005604&sprefix=radiator+refill%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Can you pls post the link for that tool
I've made other video in 2019 with this tool and provided link and description but I understand those videos may not have been viewed. Here is the link at Amazon where I bought tool airvac tool that I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BW39HJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m only holding -9 psi. All my fluid that’s in my system goes up and can’t vacuum any more. Do I need to drain my system to get to that -24psi. I have the expansion tank and heat exchanger from Z1.
I would think you should still be able to pull a vacuum higher than that. If the system had bubbles/airpockets and the overflow tank had a sufficient level of coolant then when you pulled the vacuum at the overflow tank, any air pockets should be replaced bt the extra coolant from the tank. Bleeding brakes the same way with the master cylinder. I'd reach out to z1 tech/help and verify too. I am not a master engine tech so what I say/suggest is the best I know.
@@GettingthruLife thanks for your quick reply. Greatly appreciate it. Yeah I will call Z1 tomorrow to see what’s going on. Thanks again!
Hey question got an oil change about 3 months ago & I checked my dipstick today oil level was low... curious is the oil suppose to burn away that quickly & i live in NYC it’s winters now I’m wondering if my car is burning oil or is that Irma consumption??
These cars can consume oil due to the added turbo blowby but you'd have to be driving it hard to see the loss. Fill it back up to the correct level and keep an eye on it for sure. Oil could be leaking out the turbo seals and out the exhaust. If it continues to be dropping a noticeable amount over each month then that is not normal. After a few thousand miles I may need to top off my oil by a small pour from the oil bottle but a small amount. In the winter I've switched to 0w-20 weight oil and for the summer I'm sticking with 5w-30 Quaker State full synthetic Ultimate Durability for turbo engines. I change my oil every 4-5,000 miles because it's pretty cheap to do and will make the car's motor and turbos last longer and run better.
Hey what’s up man I was pretty confused on where I put my anti freeze at.I’m not to familiar with cars never had someone teach me basically learning my self
so there are two tanks with coolant right there side by side in front of the motor. The smaller tank on the passenger side is the coolant for the HX/intercoolers. The reservoir tank on the driver's side is for the block/motor coolant tank. Just fill to mark indicated on backside.
@@GettingthruLife thank you man I appreciate it. what kind of coolant do you use I have a stock 2016 q50 RS
Well I used the Nissan recommended blue coolant just to try and keep the standard but any populat coolant radiator coolant should be fine. If you live in a somewhat warmer climate that doesn't get down to 10 and 20 degrees and below for periods of time you can mix up a batch of 20/70 coolant and distilled water mix that will perform better then straight antifreeze and the 50/50 mix of some coolants.
@@GettingthruLife I was wondering what is the smaller tank for ? There’s 2 of them do I fill both of them up with coolant ?? I’m confused never was taught and I’m pretty young lol
Ok, there is writing on the side of both resovoir tanks that shows where full fill level is. Don't fill higher than what is shows. You will have to bend around, lean over to see the makings, you may need a flash light. Nissan and Infiniti recommend their blue colored coolant so I'm not saying it's ok to fill with a different brand then Nissan's coolant but if you don't have that and need to fill the resovoir containers then another brand of 50/50 -40/60 coolant should work.
I am going to do this procedure on my q50 red sport, did you run the both waterpumps for the heat exchanger? Looking at the proper way to bleed the system is to let both pumps run to bleed the system
I did not do 2 pumps, wasnt a viable option back when I did these HX bleed videos. Now Z1 Motorsports has a dual pump kit anyone can add to any year/model 3.0t Infiniti or I assume Nissan Z. I too wanted to do it right so I bought the tool and did the best to educate myself. At the time when I did this there was like 1 youtube video and it showed some of the process but didnt provide enough.
How much pressure is too much?
If you are taking about the compressor I just have compressor's regulator set to about 90psi. If you are talking about the psi on the gauge of the tool sucking the air out of the HX, I see between 22 and 25 psi. I will close the valves and see if the system then holds that psi for 5 min than I call it sealed up no leaks.
how do i know when its done draining?
If you mean draining coolant out of the coolant bottle into the heat exchanger, it's a combination of visual inspection, assumption, trial and error, and/or repeating process more than once.
After filling the heat exchanger system to what you'd expect to be the properly filled level (resivor tank and up to hx fill neck) put the coolant cap back on. Note: You can grab one of the main hx coolant hoses with hand and squeeze over and over while watching coolant level in the tank fluctuate and get a idea if the hose is has certain amount of coolant. Also squeezing the hose with force and may help push coolant to other areas.
Once you think you've done all you can at the "fill back up stage", go drive your Q50-60 around 5 min on highway. Come back and check the resivor tank level.a good idea to flip open hood and just keep an eye on. Just good practice to keep eye on the vital signs of your baby. -Oil and coolant
where do you get the cover to plug the breather?
I just looked around my garage where I save little things like this for use at a later time. You could go to Autozone and buy a small rubber vaccum cap. In the old days you could buy individual sizes but these days you got to buy a packet with a bunch of different sizes.
Anything can serve to plug up this vent hole. I can just encourage you to be creative but if you don't seal that vent then the air vac tool won't be able to a vaccum.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks, i will check it out, i already ordered this and was going to bleed mine on Saturday. This was such a timely video thanks
@@GettingthruLife what type of air compressor are you using?
I have a Porter Cable pancake style compressor between $107 to 139.99. Any compressor will work as long as it's not a janky toy like compressor for the soccer mom to air up her tires for her cigarette lighter on the side of the road.
@@GettingthruLifethanks again!
So is the passenger side tank strictly for the heat exchanger? And the drivers side tank for the regular coolant system?
Yes
@@GettingthruLife i just got a q50 and planned on doing the upgraded heat exchanger thats why i ask. It hasnt been delivered yet but would i be able to tell the two apart? Just by following the hoses and whatnot
@gainzter9671 it's pretty straight forward. Now there's more videos for reference. Mishimoto had a good hx install video that I referenced. Tough part just taking off the front bumper skin. Also squeezing into place the hx as to not mush in any delicate cooling veins.
Hey what’s up man it’s me again lol. So I’m a bit concerned. Last night was my first time hitting high RPM’s due to me merging onto the highway, so with that being said, when my car shifted gears in high RPM’s I heard a squeaky noise. I’m aware of the belt issue on these engines, so I checked to see if it was aligned correctly and it was. Unless I miscalculated the measurements. But I noticed a slight decrease on my MPG since I noticed this problem. Did I fall victim to the common belt issue or you think it’s something else?
Edit: The squeaky noise only happens when the car shifts in high RPMs because I tried it again after I heard it the first time. Car shifts fine with no squeaks when I’m driving normal and shifting under 3k RPM
I'm no sure about your situation. I don't have any experience with belt slip or the belt being worn out because my car is under 8k. One thing you may try is rev your car in neutral up to 5k and see if you hear belt noise while the hood it up.
May be some issue with your trans or the rubber bushings that the trans mounts to the car our your rear subframe mounts to the frame. The rear sub -frame is connected to the frame by floating rubber bushings. May explain why it's happening while shifting, loading and unloading the rear differential. The rear differential is connected to the rear subframe. Squeaking could be coming from this area.
I made a video on upgrading my rear subframe bushing collars to the more rigid Z1 Motorsports subframe bushing collars.
Try reving your engine with hood open and have a family member in the car reving the motor. Don't rev to 7k but 5k-ish and back down quickly.
May need to be put up on a car lift and have a auto professional look at all the spots where rubber bushings are. These things wear out over time due to environmental conditions.
Getting thru Life I did that just right now. I revved it up to 5k twice while on Neutral and I didn’t hear the squeak
Thanks for all your help btw, I know I’m asking a lot of questions. I’ve owned two Nissans prior to my Q50 and never had a problem. this is my first time experiencing problems with a vehicle
@@luisiferz if the belt was slipping or on its way out I would think you would hear issues by doing what I suggested. On my '80 and '90 mustangs 5.0's this is when you would hear belt slippage while reving in neutral. As far as other squeaking you just need to isolate where its coming from. Have another friend sit in the back seats during the time when it happens and see if they can pinpoint an area for unwanted noise. Squeaking make me think it's from a part that flexes or rubs. Suspension components can tends to squeak with age. Could be a motor mount on its way out. They have a rubber component that over time can wear out/break down. More motor movement under the hood at higher rpm shifts.
@@luisiferz you probably figured it out by now but it’s the serpentine belt it wears down quick with the vr30
Did you get the belt replaced. Hopefully you do/did because if it breaks it can cause some damage under the hood.