How to Vacuum Fill Your Cooling System (Astro 78585 Review and Instructions)
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2020
- In this video I show you how to vacuum fill your cooling system to eliminate air pockets in the cooling system that can cause overheating problems. To do this I will be using Astro Pneumatic part number 78585. All of these vacuum filling units all work the same way. The tool draws a vacuum on the cooling system removing all air from the cooling system. Next you attach a suction line to draw the antifreeze or coolant into the cooling system when the valve is opened. This procedure will eliminate the need to burp the air from your cooling system. This Astro Pneumatic Master Cooling System Service Kit also has the ability to pressure test your cooling system and some radiator caps.
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Links:
Pressure tester and Vacuum Filler: amzn.to/30Fnv7y
Newer Ford & GM Adapter: amzn.to/36InyDM
Newer Land Rover & BMW Adapter: amzn.to/3ntIQLh
Newer Audi, Porsche, & VW Adapter: amzn.to/3d9Dsbi
Cheaper Pressure Tester & Vacuum Filler: amzn.to/30JIZQP
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Very helpful as I’ll be needing one of these for my Volvo
this video wasn't very helpful. Need to figure out how to cool radbolt generators in the vacuum of space for the atomic collider. i was thinking i'm supposed to create glass shields but thats out of the question only have 3 solar panels and need it for them. Probably have to pipe sewage up there that probably will work.
Isn't their a pocket of air in the coolant hose that gets sucked up between the coolant jug and the tool, don't you need to bleed that first 🤔
@@ryandass15 his videos aren't good. need to look up other Oxygen Not Included videos
You are missing the Astro Pneumatic Tool 7858523 NO. 23 Radiator Test Cap (Late Model Audi, VW, Porsche).
Depending on the cooling system, and repair made, even though during filling the needle drops to 0 with no more coolant being sucked in, I have found the majority of the time, it is needed to close the fill valve, and open the vacuum valve to further vacuum the system. When you do that, you can hear a difference in airflow (small air pockets being filled with coolant while air is sucked out). You can also feel the air pockets coming through if you put your hand where the tool is hooked to the system. Bottom line, is pulling a vacuum once doesn't cut it on major repairs where lots of coolant is lost, and pockets form in the engine. The venturi effect can only pull so much vacuum on the non collapsible parts of the system, and the most obvious source of vacuum is the flat hoses opening back up. Dont just go one and done. Reapply vacuum for a bit, and fill again. Source: I've done this professionally for many years with several designs of the same type of tool. They all have the same result, and need to be vacuumed down for a second time to be thoroughly filled. It's not the tool. Its the cooling system and repair made to it.
So you're saying that before you introduce any coolant back to the system you pull vacuum, let it sit, then pull vacuum again? Then you introduce the coolant and fill to the vacuum is replaced with fluid and the gauge shows 0?
@@scottweiss6750 pull a second vacuum to get any extra air pockets out that may not have been sucked out on the first go. On the second vacuum, its personal preference to let it sit to verify a sealed system (needle not dropping)
Excellent advice, this is exactly what Uview recommends in their user manual for the AirLift 550000. I have a question for you, since you have run into this firsthand: After the first evacuation and refill, the vehicle cooling system now contains a large amount of coolant. When you attempt to evacuate for a second time to remove any lingering air pockets, how long are you applying the compressed air? Are you still attempting to reach 24 - 26 inHg on the gauge? Since the system is not empty as it was during the first evacuation, I'm concerned about how much coolant would be expelled from the tool during the second evacuation (appreciate if you could share what your experience has been in this area).
Thanks in advance for taking the time to respond back.
@@StilettoSniper @StilettoSniper not much coolant is lost during the second vacuum. But it needs to be done to remove any sneaky air pockets. I can't give an accurate range of how much vacuum will be achieved on round 2 because results very greatly between cooling system sizes, repair made, and which systems have a tendency to trap more or less air. Personally I mostly play it by ear and timing. You can hear the change in airflow as an air pocket is expelled through the tool. As more air is displaced by coolant, and there becomes less to vacuum, the airflow changes will become less frequent until they stop completely. At which point, only coolant will be slowly sucked out. Flip the valves, and fill the system the rest of the way. And done.
(By the way, there's no reason to worry about coolant being sucked out and lost. Just put the exhaust hose from the tool into an empty coolant jug. It will catch expelled coolant, which can simply be poured into the jug the fill hose is in)
EDIT.. I forgot to clarify a little bit as to an example of two different cooling systems, that would most likely have a very different vacuum achieved on round 2, or even round 3 (if need be).
Let's say a simple nissan maxima with a v6 vs a nissan armada with rear heat.
The maxima by round 2 will most likely hit 15-20 inHg and be good to go at the end of round 2. Whereas the nissan armada, since the rear heater core is elevated higher than the radiator, let's assume that the rear heater core and lines drained out during engine repair. Now there is much more air that needs to be displaced, and replaced by coolant. As well as the fact that in that instance, you also have to battle gravity a little. Roumd 2 in that case will most likely be about 25 inHg. And may take a 3rd or 4th round depending on circumstances.
I know it seems excessive, but I have found myself doing 3 and maybe 4 rounds in some cases just for good measure, but that depends on how the previous vacuum process sounded, and frequency of needle drops. (Oil filled guage for much more stable readings while pulling vacuum)
Yes this is the way to go. Mine need just a little bit more but worth the second check
You're spot on about the Fit. The heater core is higher than the radiator cap. I don't have a vacuum filler so I had to lift the front end of my kid's car to get most of the air out of the system. I ran the car on ramp stands for about 15 minutes and air bubbles were still coming out. The next time I change the coolant I'm buying a tool like this. Thanks for the video.
Dude thank you so much for this video.
I’ve had this tool for over a year and never knew it had this functionality.
The best video I have found on RUclips so far, showing how to use this kit. GREAT JOB!
This tool is well worth the money. Easy to use and fast. Thanks again for the tip and the link.
After nine months of searching your video showed me what I needed to do! Thank you so much!
4:05-5:03 WELL SAID . Thorough explanation and presentation of potential issues.
7:50 the extra thorough work to pressure test, even though no leaks were made known while held under vacuum. And the AWESOME (and very plausible) theory 🤓 on why there could potentially be a false sense of a “sealed” “leak-free” system. Could leak later down the road and leave a customer unhappy (stranded if they overheat or even won’t drive with a leak. which we should never fault them for early repairs, or preventative maintenance) and leave a mechanic embarrassed; also maybe scratching our head.
*subscribed, and all notifications turned on!
This solved my coolant-air-pocket-issue perfectly!!!! Thank you for the upload!
Thanks for the video . Having the cooling system empty and being able to perform a vacuum test is great . Before reassembly it is good idea to test for leaks to make sure you have no leaks and you save coolant which is not cheap anymore.
Dude you nailed it with this video, you got the one that explains everything thank you brother
Great video! You really explained all the functions of the tool and now I'm going to buy one!!
The majority of cooling systems no longer have radiator caps. This tool is essential to modern auto repair and maintenance!!
I have one of the top units made by master cool, that I got off the Cornwell truck. I actually they were on back order and I got one used for my birthday! I’m unsure about the cheaper sets, especially where valve components are plastic, but Astro pneumatic is a pretty well-established brand. And all the components are the same selection for the most part. (of unknown varied quality.) For multiple reasons above: Glad you did this review!!
This tool is an awsome sucker. It just make me want to hook my vaccumm pump for AC installation and pull the system to an absolute vaccum. Thanks for the demo.
Thank you very much i got this kit used for very cheap and this was the best demo I’ve seen🎉🎉🎉
Thanks brother. I'm trying to learn more and more about this mechanic stuff. Seem like you have some knowledge behind you!
Wicked video, I had bought this kit for the pressure tester and wondered what the vacuum part was for, thanks!
I've never thought about your water pump analogy before, but that makes perfect sense. If it was sealed you probably would never get an air pocket in the first place.
Best explanation of how to use this tools , Thanks
This is awesome, i will get this over spending $500 on the same stuff from tool truck
great demonstration of the kit, for anyone in the UK/Europe, these kits are available for £55 on ebay or Amazon currently (late 2023) they don't quite fit the older peugeot/citroen quite right, the seal diameter is a little large though the cap itself fits fine.
Fill the hose with coolant prior to filling . Otherwise it will suck small amount of air within the hose
Yes, in fact my instruction manual states this:”The Refill Hose must be purged. Slowly open the Coolant Refill Valve so thatthe coolant fills the Refill Hose. Close the Coolant Refill Valve. This process willcause a drop in vacuum.Open Air Inlet valve to re-establish the maximum vacuum level in the Coolingsystem. Close the Air Inlet Valve.Open Coolant Refill Valve slowly. The vehicle coolant system is full when thevacuum gauge reads zero.”
@@ACitizenOfOurWorld what's the clear hose for ? Fits onto the barb below the airline fitting? I assume bleeding off excess air ?
@@jonny_s14
Yes you can put the hose on that connector so you're not blowing coolant in the engine bay or on the ground if you're doing this outside. stick the end in an empty bottle.
Your video was the best explained vid for this tool. I've had my tool for years never really knew how to use it. Definitely will try it now. And the tool to test radiator cap lol OMG never knew it was for that. Yes this tool will help me a lot for now on. Thank you again.
Well done...a lot of this I learned the hard way at my technician job...Honda is always making things difficult! Lol
Great tool and video. Thanks
My 2006 chrysler 300 is a nightmare to bleed out the air. Definitely will need to get this tool for the next time I need to remove the coolant.
Nice man I was going to buy the snap one which is pretty expensive. good job thanks for the info
Best explanatory , Well done you have excellent communicating skills , INTELLIGENT you yes i wish you well , the manufacturers of these system in cars dumb i will be looking forward for when these mechanical systems become obsolete .
I've been looking for a good solution to bleeding the air out of my coolant systems and this looks way better than those funnels that hook to the radiator cap, plus this can replace my 30 year old pressure tester.
@@GregsAutomotive Really!? I guess every one is different, but sucking it in under vacuum was faster for both my Cummins and my Jeep 4.0.
Great video ❤
I saw a bubble go up while you were checking what was in the bottle. It's better to get a clean 5 gallon bucket. Pour all your coolant in one container and you won't have to stop
Good video though and good resolution, thanks for sharing this video with us.
Good job on everything
Your video is the best! Picked up the unit through Amazon. I tried to get logged on to your Amazon page, that they were like wanting way too much information, bro. Really enjoyed the way you presented it made it simple I'm kind of bummed out because I really wanted to get one of your geek repair sweatshirts.
Is it for my 2005 Porsche Cayenne sports model V8? The dealer wanted $780 to flush out the fluid and put a new fluid.
Little tricky getting to the drain plug, but all that being said, I got extra money for surfing now
Great video!!! About Amazon, I lost my money after returning a delayed + wrong item. No more Amazon for me.
Excellent. 🤔
Thank you sir.
I have one. Try filling an older blazer without it. Heater core is above the radiator. GM says park it on a 15 Degree slope. Engine facing up hill. With this kit no problem!.
BMW has joined the chat
Eres el Mejor👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I think it would be perfect if you showed a complete drain and then preparation for the refill .. just a thought,thank you
Hi can you use the manual pressure tester air pump, on the vacuum generator, where you said the compressed air hose attaches instead.
I got the cheaper pressure tester ($88) but the fittings for the air compressor does not fit standard shop air. What fitting do you have in your Astro 78585? Is it S-210 or S-217? Thank you!
Mishimoto has this same exact kit but in a black box for $85
Thanks for that info! I appreciate it
I love mine.
Question what if you added the coolant and bleeding is not working !! Do you need to during the system to use this tool .
What about the air left in the inlet hoose when submerging it into the new coolant bottle?
I had a bit of a nightmare with my Citroen C4 picasso mk2. I finally did it in the end but could have done with this.
I have had my wife's mini cooper and changed out the coolant. I had to turn a screw next to the thermostat housing and it bled it like a bleeder on brakes and allowed for full flow of the coolant after bleeding this system.
Hello so my question is will this tool only work when the coolant system is empty or will it still suck air pockets out even if the system is full? I will be doing an airlift procedure on my 2016 q50 which has 2 different cooling systems, one for the engine and the other for the heat exchanger, ill be using this tool for both sides but wanted to know if i have to drain all the coolant or if i can still airlift without having to drain the coolant thanks
will this suck air from the block and heater core? i mean thermostat is close when its cold so how does this one will suck air in the block of the engine?
I know you can rent the coolant pressure testing tool from auto parts retailers like AutoZone, but I am not sure about the vacuum filler. I didn't know there was a tool to vacuum fill coolant. Thanks for sharing.
Great vid thanks, two questions 1) How does it deal with with any coolant left in that won't drain out? 2) How does it pull coolant/vacuum past the thermostat? Thanks
That's what I want to know
@@Scousewil Apparently the thermostat 'always' has a small hole/pin valve in it to allow for this? I checked on mine and it did. As for leftover coolant I think some is always left in there, maybe flushing with a hose would clear the old crap but IDK...
@@spandon Ohhh ok that's interesting about the pinhole I didn't know that. Cheers mate 👍
All Honda cars have a bleeder screw on the high point of the engine, usually on the intake of cylinder head coolant passage. Many other makes have this high point bleed screw. This allows bleeding air pockets out
Did you fill the system most of the way full of coolant before starting this procedure?
So what happens to the left over coolant or water in the system does it come out when air is applied or does it just stay in and the air is forced out??? I flushed mine and added a gallon of fluid so there is air and fluid. Do I have to completely restart or can I just use this vacuum and continue from where I’m at?
There’s a third connection under the supply hose, what is that used for?
I have a vauxhall corsa, for those of you in the US/EU that's an Opel, manufactured by GM... My car was off the road for a month, I changed everything in the cooling system, I tried bleeding for hours at least a dozen times, this thing would not bleed air, had it booked in for my Vauxhall specialist but it was a 3 week wait, eventually, he vacuum filled it and said they're a living nightmare to get air out of, I will definitely be getting one of these for myself, and just in case this happens to any family or friends.
Expensive, but looks like a very solid tool for filling systems.
The high brand ones with the same amount and type of components (quality varies) are up to $400. the valves that they come with are the most crucial. If cheap plastic components are being used with hot coolant then for sure they will break down. Especially if you live in a really cold climate. Plastic pieces that get really hot get SO brittle here up the north.
@@MrTravisAl O yea, all those heat cycles in cold climates degrade plastic quick. I bought this tool and it works amazing!
Can purchase just the vacuum unit separately for $20 and then the caps are $15 each. No need to spend money on all those caps you probably won't ever use.
my engine has an automatic air purge on its system. ive never had issues with air in the system. you used like 2/3 of a bottle to fill the system?!? my god, i need like 7 of those!!
Can you put a vacuum on if there is still a littel bit coolant inside
I did a funnel refill and i have air left in the system.
1. Do i need to drain out the coolant to do this vacuum refill?
2. Can a vacuum pump be used instead of compressed air?
Thanks
I noticed in the video when you introduced compressed air that the needle stopped just between the red and yellow line. How do you know how much compressed air to use and where the needle should stop? Is it always 24 - 26 inHg or is it different for every car?
Can you explain me firstly the system is totally empty...or it is prefilled..and ..and you just..fill..some for the process....secondly the left pipe black and green...you attached is air that compresses out in or it is vacuum in out
What kind of compressor or what you suggest to used for this toll
That is a neat tool to have. My G35 was a pain in the butt to bleed through traditional funnel. I spent over 3hrs. Question: shouldn’t you purge the fill hose with coolant first so that the air from the hose does not get introduced into the cooling system?
100%, suck up coolant into the hose so there's no air in it.
2019 jeep wrangler jl sport 3.6 does not have radiator or drain plug, so for this how do you flush and refill coolant on this jeep?
so if the system currently has an air pocket in it. Doing this will pull the air pocket out?
Hello! Thanks! Too good Video. When you open the faucet to start filling in new coolant in the system, there is air in that hose that comes from the canister with the cooler in it. Where does that air go when you have opened the faucet to fill in coolant? Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
if the system has coolant, it needs to be drained in order to vaccum?
Do I need to remove the thermostat tho or make sure it’s open in anyway ?
Is it possible to use this tool when the system has some coolant already and you just need to get rid of the air pocket without completely draining the system of coolant? Thank you
Fantastic video sir!! Only question I have is when you pressure tested the system at the end by pumping air INTO the system, did it not push air into the system and thereby require you to top off the fluid when you removed the adapter?
Ya, a little late, but simple answer is no. The coolant, mostly water, is not compressible. Only the air (gas) is and compresses as it is pumped. If there is a leak in the system it will manifest as coolant dripping onto the ground.
@@bigdfig6083 Thank Ya!! Been standing at my hood for 2 years awaiting your response :) Seriously though, Thank ya!!
Air can get trapped in high spots, not get stuck at the highest spot. Naturally the highest spot is the best because fluid pressure increases the higher up you are, which makes it harder for air pockets to get stuck as fluid try's to force its way into those cavities. There are some vehicles that this is the ONLY method because that difference. There are simply too many high spots in the system for air to get trapped in, and no amount of jacking or elevating the fill spot will purge them.
What happened to all that air in the line at 5:55?
Surely you can purge the line before releasing the vacuum?
Also can this tool be used if the system has 95% of the coolant still in the system? Or does it have to be empty?
if i have air pocket do i need to drain fluid is left in system to start again with vacuum part?
Do you have to completely drain the system in order for this to work? I've done it a couple times at work but definitely need more practice. Now I just flushed out my engine and radiator and now my coolant is heating up really fast so I need to burp the system. Just bought a vacuum pressurizer like yours and going to do it that way.
Do I need to manually get rid of all of the coolant in radiator and engine before I pressurize and put the fluid back in? Or can that tool do that job? Thanks!
You should try it and see what happens. It won't damage anything. Worst case it will spray out coolant when you try to vacuum it down.
@@RepairGeek I really appreciate your very fast reply bud. Thank you very much. I just got to work and we have a Snap-on coolant system refiller that I'll be doing it properly with today. My coolant gets to operating temperature within minutes after I flushed out engine and radiator so I feel there's still air pockets inside even after attempting to jack in up and burp it for 30 mins yesterday.
How do you fill a cooling system without the thermostat being open I have a 2004 Envoy
My escape doesn't have a radiator cap. is there an attachment for the fill bottle?
I don't have shop air, any ideas guys on rasing vacuum to properly purge and FIL the cooling system.
Can i use the vacuum filler to extract all the coolant ?
Once you turned the valve on there was air in the line that went in first.
Will this work with Audi's because they have an expansion tank where the filling goes through there.They do not have a standard rad cad
You just attach to the expansion tank in that case
Do you have to empty the coolant before starting with step 1 (at minute 03:00) ?
Question: Can this Astro kit be placed on the coolant reservoir if the radiator does not have a radiator cap?
Yes. The kit has adapters for that.
Does the air compressor does as vacuum machine ??
Do you need a vacuum pump or a compressor to use this tool?
how is coolant water drawn ? and air and thx to u
Which is the right one? They have Maddock and 2444 oem
If doing this via expansion tank and not directly on radiator, does the thermostat need to be open?
It makes no difference.
My Daytona 955i is notoriously famous for being a bitch filling it back up, I bought a cheaper version of this set (45 euro), doing a flush of the old coolant as we speak, works perfectly! No air and very easy to work with!
what PSI do you have your compressor at to achieve vacuum?
100psi
Say you’re doing a spill and fill on a full cooling system. When you create the vacuum, does it suck out all the old coolant you’ll be replacing?
Some because the hoses will collapse. It's not designed to remove coolant.
Isn't there some air trapped in the hose which is drawing the coolant? Before the coolant is sucked to the valve there is some air trapped in the hose. What do you do with that?
that kit looks brand spankin new........so really how much experience do you have with this kit? is some Chinese Temu brand sponsoring this bideo?
Couldn't I use the venturi effect to also suck out the coolant?
Currently, in Poland, it costs less than $ 100. It is made in China and sold under different brands. I have the same.
Did you drain the system before?
Does this kit include a Nissan adapter?
what if there is already coolant in the system? can this still work?
Can you us3 it to flush or drain a system?