Welcome to Mini-Z scale RC. The Reflex kits are really good. I have the RX28SE, which includes a tub-style stainless steel chassis, as well as both (ie. DAA & KISS) front end. Speaking of which, to answer your question, yes, each of the front end options can be purchased separately. So, for you having purchased the KISS version of the RX28, you can separately purchase the DAA front end. Another high-end 1/28 kit you should look at is the RTA from RTRC. Robin Thomas (thus the 'RT' in 'RTRC'), a well-known European racer, spent a considerable amount of time designing & testing his design. His chassis, driven by countless other drivers, has won a considerable number of races. One of the coolest things about the RTA is that, by purchasing a single upgrade part, the RTA can be converted from a 98mm wheelbase, to 102mm wheelbase. Recently, Robin released the RTB, which is an AWD 1/28 belt-driven chassis (to the best of my knowledge, this is the first belt-driven 1/28 AWD chassis). I haven't built mine yet, as it was just delivered a few days ago, and I'm still working on finishing building a Kraken VESLA.5 (a 1/5 scale RWD buggy), as well as a GL Racing LMP2 (1/28 scale RWD LM chassis).
The Atomic BZ had belt AWD as early as 2017 or so, I think. Their latest BZ5 just won the PNWC AWD class last weekend, in a very close race against the RTRC RTB. Other competive chassis options are the Atomic MRX, and to a lesser degree the MRZ.
@ijdod I stand corrected. And, now that I think about it, I do seem to recall being on their site 1-2 years ago, and seeing a kit that was belt drive. However, I never actually looked into it, which is why I don't even remember which kit it was.
Pretty cool looking kit! Btw…i will never build a 1/32 again, fine line between needing the glasses or a microscope. Thanks for the look at the build, love it.
For the body, make sure you do it in the brightest colour you can. Dark cars blend into the track and make driving extra hard. Also for tires, get a few options as these are your main tuning option. Usually you get softer rears compared to the fronts to make it understeer which makes it easier to drive.
The rx28 is a classic link-tube style 2wd pan car, similar to older 1/12 from ~5 to 10 years ago. The grey 'bars' you mentioned are the "link" and roll grease dampers up top are the 'tubes'. The 'KISS' front suspension is a typical sliding pillar, also found on current 1/12th pan cars. The chassis is steel rather than aluminium alloy. I didn't see you slide the KISS upper arms forward or back - make sure you push them forward for 2 deg caster. The movement is half a mm fore-aft between 2deg and 4deg.
Yeah, that's on my list right after building the HMS Enterprise (1705) ship in a bottle. In all seriousness, it is very impressive. Outside of my comfort zone.
Nice one 👍🏼 Couple of pointers On the pivot ball they accept a 1.5mm hex so you don’t need to use shock pliers Use 15 & 30k diff grease rather then shock oil, these dampers rely on friction. (The viscosity isn’t comparable between oil and the grease, look up Kyosho 15k & 30k diff grease, actually I’ll package you some up in an application syringe for you) Lastly I have your tyres here, the kits come with tyres, think I was going to pre glue them for you before coming to the club! Looking forward to seeing you at the club 💣
Remember, with loctite - less is more. Do not bathe the screws as this will eventually either just make it impossible to remove it or not seating properly...
Blue Loctite is too much! Purple! Also, shock damper should use grease not oil. Lastly, they sell receivers with the transponder built-in. It's a space/weight savings for sure.
Great build! But as you pointed out, way WAY too much loctite especially for these tiny bits, I hope you don't strip all the screws if you need to disassemble in the future :)
I’ll leave the Refex and other “Pan” type 1/27 cars to the actual fast guys/gals it’s hard enough for me to keep a regular box stock class MiniZ off the sides of the RCP track it’s not like I’m new I’ve been racing 1/10 OnRoad TC for years I’ve even raced nitro I guess I’m getting old as an excuse even though majority of everyone I’m racing with is my age or older 😂
We do 1:28 indoors during winter season. When we move outside again in spring it feels so easy. You feel you can (almost) have a cup of tea while driving down the straight :D.
Welcome to Mini-Z scale RC. The Reflex kits are really good. I have the RX28SE, which includes a tub-style stainless steel chassis, as well as both (ie. DAA & KISS) front end. Speaking of which, to answer your question, yes, each of the front end options can be purchased separately. So, for you having purchased the KISS version of the RX28, you can separately purchase the DAA front end.
Another high-end 1/28 kit you should look at is the RTA from RTRC. Robin Thomas (thus the 'RT' in 'RTRC'), a well-known European racer, spent a considerable amount of time designing & testing his design. His chassis, driven by countless other drivers, has won a considerable number of races. One of the coolest things about the RTA is that, by purchasing a single upgrade part, the RTA can be converted from a 98mm wheelbase, to 102mm wheelbase.
Recently, Robin released the RTB, which is an AWD 1/28 belt-driven chassis (to the best of my knowledge, this is the first belt-driven 1/28 AWD chassis). I haven't built mine yet, as it was just delivered a few days ago, and I'm still working on finishing building a Kraken VESLA.5 (a 1/5 scale RWD buggy), as well as a GL Racing LMP2 (1/28 scale RWD LM chassis).
The Atomic BZ had belt AWD as early as 2017 or so, I think. Their latest BZ5 just won the PNWC AWD class last weekend, in a very close race against the RTRC RTB.
Other competive chassis options are the Atomic MRX, and to a lesser degree the MRZ.
@ijdod I stand corrected. And, now that I think about it, I do seem to recall being on their site 1-2 years ago, and seeing a kit that was belt drive. However, I never actually looked into it, which is why I don't even remember which kit it was.
Great little build! I cant wait to see it finished up and on the track! Thanks for sharing.
Pretty cool looking kit! Btw…i will never build a 1/32 again, fine line between needing the glasses or a microscope. Thanks for the look at the build, love it.
Thankfully, you're 'free' to build this (and others like this), as it's not 1/32 scale...it's 1/28 scale, so is larger. 😄
Oh boy, that’s a glasses build for sure! :)
Damn, that's a gorgeous little car, amazing engineering! Can't wait to see how you get on with it ;)
Mind blowing build, Gavin 😮 Well done 👏🤝
Hey brother! Got a great idea for ya! Do two bodies for it! One two play and the other for race! I really would definitely do that on this car!!!!
For the body, make sure you do it in the brightest colour you can. Dark cars blend into the track and make driving extra hard. Also for tires, get a few options as these are your main tuning option. Usually you get softer rears compared to the fronts to make it understeer which makes it easier to drive.
Thanks for the tips!
Visible bodies is a valid point for larger classes too :D.
The rx28 is a classic link-tube style 2wd pan car, similar to older 1/12 from ~5 to 10 years ago. The grey 'bars' you mentioned are the "link" and roll grease dampers up top are the 'tubes'. The 'KISS' front suspension is a typical sliding pillar, also found on current 1/12th pan cars. The chassis is steel rather than aluminium alloy.
I didn't see you slide the KISS upper arms forward or back - make sure you push them forward for 2 deg caster. The movement is half a mm fore-aft between 2deg and 4deg.
Try a 4wd one next time😉 haha Awesome build, great quality kit by the looks of it.
Yeah, that's on my list right after building the HMS Enterprise (1705) ship in a bottle.
In all seriousness, it is very impressive. Outside of my comfort zone.
Ok yes
An RC slot car. Awesome. Wish I had one as a kid.
They were around ages ago. Tamiya had their 1:24 Tamtech in the late eighties.
@ijdod longer than that. Lol.
Nice one 👍🏼
Couple of pointers
On the pivot ball they accept a 1.5mm hex so you don’t need to use shock pliers
Use 15 & 30k diff grease rather then shock oil, these dampers rely on friction. (The viscosity isn’t comparable between oil and the grease, look up Kyosho 15k & 30k diff grease, actually I’ll package you some up in an application syringe for you)
Lastly I have your tyres here, the kits come with tyres, think I was going to pre glue them for you before coming to the club!
Looking forward to seeing you at the club 💣
I have some 30k diff oil :)
@@RCKickschannelthe oil tends to just run off. You need grease which sticks.
Oh my god, as someone with trembling hands, building this would be my hell 😅
Amazing but crazy money 😢 Pete
OOOF $880 here lol.... Fun not doubt but $500 for a mini Z is too much.
If you get into competitive mini-z racing eventually you'll understand why it's worth it
Remember, with loctite - less is more. Do not bathe the screws as this will eventually either just make it impossible to remove it or not seating properly...
Blue Loctite is too much! Purple! Also, shock damper should use grease not oil. Lastly, they sell receivers with the transponder built-in. It's a space/weight savings for sure.
£439 sod that 😂😂
Great build! But as you pointed out, way WAY too much loctite especially for these tiny bits, I hope you don't strip all the screws if you need to disassemble in the future :)
I was playing with it again today and I removed a few parts easy enough. The hardware quality is actually really good
I’ll leave the Refex and other “Pan” type 1/27 cars to the actual fast guys/gals it’s hard enough for me to keep a regular box stock class MiniZ off the sides of the RCP track it’s not like I’m new I’ve been racing 1/10 OnRoad TC for years I’ve even raced nitro I guess I’m getting old as an excuse even though majority of everyone I’m racing with is my age or older 😂
We do 1:28 indoors during winter season. When we move outside again in spring it feels so easy. You feel you can (almost) have a cup of tea while driving down the straight :D.
Skibidi