How To Install A Ceiling Fan | Hunter Original
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
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See this Original in full operation here: • Hunter Original Ceilin...
People have wanted this one for a long time, so here it is: installation of a Hunter Original cast iron ceiling fan. I don't exactly have ideal conditions for demonstration of this installation, but I tried to show a variety of possible methods. Obviously there are a lot of variations, all of which I could never show, and I would recommend even heavier bolts or screws than I used if you're going for a more permanent installation. What I use here is sufficient, but you can never be too careful with a fan this heavy. As I said in the intro disclaimer, these fans can be dangerous if they are not mounted properly and fall. Please be careful, and remember that I am not a Hunter representative and I don't claim to be an expert on the installation of Hunter Original fans.
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I was thinking about replacing one of the Hampton bay glendales with a hunter original, this video is very helpful so I know how to install one!
This is one fan i desperately want in my collection
The hunter original must be the most popular fan ever made
It's a good thing I have a set of the 10 pound dumbell weights (that my dad bought for me at Wal-Mart earlier this year), so that hopefully my arms will become less skinny and such (which might happen sometime around this Spring).
That's a really great installation video (by the way) Cole, thank you (even though I didn't ask nor tell you do this installation video). :D
Those who are replacing a fan with Hunter Original: REPLACE THE WHOLE FAN INCLUDING A MOUNTING BRACKET! Originals are too heavy for mounts on most fans.
And to these who want to install it on vaulted ceiling: buy a vaulted ceiling adaptor. DO NOT use a ball & socket, Originals are too heavy for that.
This is an excellent video, thank you!
I had a new ceiling, with new studs, installed a few months ago in my single-wide, complete with new drywall and insulation. When I did, I had an electrician come in and put in four fan boxes throughout the house.
I have a pancake box that is fan-rated (I think to 150 lbs, but not sure) that is mounted directly to the large center stud running the length of the living room. The problem is that where one of the screws for the hanging mount for this fan would go, there is already one of two screws there, mounting the box to the stud. The other screw is in the center of the box. And it doesn't help that the drywall clown sprayed ceiling paint on all of my ceiling boxes instead of taping them over, so now I have ceiling paint inside of each box making it difficult (though not impossible) to see anything. The other boxes are all on ceiling joists between the studs.
My question is, can I risk taking out the screw in question that is mounting my box to the stud, and use the bracket bolts to secure both the bracket and the box to the stud? I could install screws in the other holes that aren't being used to secure the box to the stud.
The other alternative is to use the pivoting box mounts, which have screws, but I'm not sure I trust them to support the weight of the fan, and if I have to use the bolts that came with the bracket, then I wouldn't have enough room, I don't think, because it's a shallow pancake box.
Sigh.
Nevermind, I'm not gonna risk this. I'll install another fan that's lighter with a standard bracket.
Sorry for the delayed reply, but you can absolutely bolt through the u-bolt and hold the box in place with the same fastener. In your scenario, the box is really only there to contain the wiring, and doesn't need to be independently fastened to the supporting member.
@@vfandm Got it, good to know in the future. Money is tight at the moment and that Original is a bit more than I want to spend right now. But it's good to know in the future. Thanks!
So these use the regular Hunter downrod, I thought they would have a different type because they are heavy
Very helpful video for Hunter Original fan installation.
Thank you for the install video. it was exactly what I was looking for. I'm installing on a basement ceiling, and just need to know the name of the apparatus that spans between the joists and what the box mounts to. Any info would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!
Glad it helped. The box and brace typically come as a kit, just Google 'ceiling fan brace' and you can find a variety of different types from various manufacturers, I can't remember what brand the one shown here is.
Thanks I need this video but I don't have those rubber things
But I wish that they made some that were made out of all tough metal to where you can’t bend the blades because we’re not strong enough. Meaning we’re too strong to bend the arms and or the metal blades like you can with so aluminum or so/something like that
Can you make a video of this fan please?
Love this video, and the fan!! I would love to have a chrome one with black blades like I saw in another video! Question-- why is not recommended to hang a fan like this on a j-hook? I saw that disclaimer on the video and I was just wondering.
Putting the fan on reverse can cause the hook to screw itself out and the fan to fall even in the most secure of circumstances. They're generally okay for non-reversible fans, but I prefer a u-bolt regardless. Easier installation to a proper box or structure, and you know there's no way it's coming undone.
@@vfandm gotcha! Makes total sense!
Where are these u brackets available other than eBay for $12 plus shipping?
That's pretty much it, and that price is half decent. I've seen them going for double that typically. Hunter has them available in a hardware pack, but you have to buy the whole thing which was expensive last I heard, and you get a whole lot of extra stuff for no reason.
Did the hanger claw use the loctite for the downrod, or just the motor?
So do you think it's dangerous to run newer ones on high reverse if you're not sure whether the set screw is tight enough?
Even if the downrod is screwed in tight enough, can an Original have enough torque to break a loctite?
Can you tell me what kind of Mount you were using? I'm trying to purchase a ceiling fan adjustable Mount. But most come with a 4in box. Trying to find something like you do show in your video with the studs
It was a hodgepodge. I don't remember what the brace itself was, but the box is a Westinghouse Saf-T-Box. In my opinion, they're far and away the best fan-rated boxes, though the layout of the studs isn't the most conducive to all fan bracket designs. For an Original, doesn't really matter since you have to modify anyways. Some brace kit designs would allow you to sub in the Westinghouse box instead of whatever they include. I used to like old versions of Reiker brace kits in their entirety, the new versions usually seen under P&S branding are still pretty good if you want an all-in-one.
I LIKE THE DOWN ROD IDEA SCREW IN SO ITS EASY FOR A KID TO DO IM 9 and I installed a 1986 hunter original it had a 4/5 flywheel I chose 2 lol it's wobbly
+Cole Semanko true it was a 4 blade but came with 5 blades
Guys I do not recommend using Zoom Spout for long term, or for non-reversible Original. Zoom Spout is too light for shaft on non-reversible Original since shaft is more spiral, and zoom spout can turn into gum after years.
Anyone know where I can find replacement blades for a 36 inch hunter original?
I've seen fans getting replaced but still has the same mounting bracket as the old fan. For example, I've seen Hunter Passport III (now mine) getting replaced with Hampton Bay Landmark III Plus, and still has Hunter Passport III. It would be bad when people replace a fan with Hunter Original that way.
As have I, Disney has been doing that for decades. Thankfully they started with mostly j-hook Hunters lol.
+Vintage Fans & More They should remove reverse switch and make them downdraft only if they're going to use J-hook. Running fans on reverse can cause J-hook to twist off.
I would say the majority of the crappy replacement fans have nowhere near enough torque to screw out a j-hook. But Disney does those silly safety cables on practically everything anyways.
And does USA Hunter Original even have enough power to twist out J-hook while running?
That's impossible to answer, there are so many conditions. It could happen, I mean particularly with a lot of on/off motion in between. I wouldn't ever want to run that risk with 50 pounds of cast iron. I wouldn't be as concerned with 15 pounds of stamped steel, if you catch my drift.
Hey Cole, I just had a quick question: My Original has been sitting all boxed up in it's original box ever since we moved back in September 2014. It was hung before for a few months, oiled and everything, and was run often. My main concern is, will the oil leak through if the fan sits in place for such a long time? It was fairly recently that I unboxed the fan again to ensure that everything is still in good condition (which it was, thankfully). The reason I ask is because when I took the motor out, I noticed that some of the oil had leaked out from the valve that it goes in, especially when I turned the motor to the side a bit. My main concern is that it may leak out when sitting in place for such a long time without being run or anything, possibly ruining the fan. Do you know any possibly solution to this?
You shouldn't experience any real problem as long as you don't tip the motor around too much, because obviously it'll spill out in places. If you're not expecting to hang/run it anytime soon though and you're concerned, I would just suggest that you drain it and put in fresh oil when you do hang it again. All you gotta do is flip the motor upside-down super fast, like switch housing straight up in the air in one motion, no hesitation or you'll have a mess. The oil should drain into the recess in the rotor, then you can wick it out and clean up with paper towels. You may also experience some leakage at the oil hole on top considering you've just tipped it upside-down, just FYI, but most of it should be in the rotor. I see you're talking about a Lowes clearance fan. I've not ever done this with a post-2002 Original, so I'm not sure if it works as seamlessly on them as it does with American fans, however I don't see any reason why it'd be any different. But that's really the only advice I can give you, it's pretty much either leave it alone or drain it.
when do you put more oil in the fan
When it needs more oil... It's good practice to check the oil level every couple years, but the level doesn't drop very quickly.
Hi cole! Keep up the good work😉
Nice set up but you can see that it Shake's On high or medium
That's the torque of the motor, it's not abnormal for Originals to do that.
+Vintage Fans & More oh
does it come with 3 Bracket
No, each fan would only come with one U-bracket. There were different styles used through the years and they won't all work for every circumstance shown (and not shown).
How much does a hunter original weigh?
The motor alone is usually 35-40 pounds, with everything assembled it could get upwards of 45 pounds. Most people usually just round it to 50.
I need the bracket for the 2nd method. Do you know the part # or where I can find this one? The ones I'm seeing on ebay have the holes more toward the inside rather than toward the outer end of the bracket ends. I need the holes to line up w/ the mount holes on the fan mount like you show in method 2.
The one I used in the video was a specific style that came with a select version of Reiker brand ceiling fan braces. You can just get the standard Hunter u-bolt like you've seen on eBay and drill a new set of holes further out to match your specific box, I've done that countless times before.
Yo that’s what I have I guess in terms of oil but do all ceiling fans have oil ports or so/something like that???
This is the only ceiling fan still in production that needs to be oiled, all others that need oil are antiques that have been out of production for decades.
Hey does this fan need like an extra strong beam or something or just a normal one because I might get one tomorrow and I want to make sure mine is safe and if it is I want your reply to make sure it's safe cuz there's no way my dad would think it would be safe
Anything structural is fine. A piece of 2x4 screwed into joists, fine. A proper 75+ pound rated fan brace, fine. Nothing entirely special. Someone made an analogy years ago that I liked: If your ceiling can't hold an Original, you probably shouldn't be living under it. It's not that much weight in the scope of what the roof weighs, it just needs to be mounted to whatever building structure is available (or an extension of the building structure, like adding a brace or a piece of wood between joists or trusses).
@@vfandm ok good
Thank you for the video, its a shame that Hunter customer service does not support there original products even from the 1980's. Just another VC owned legacy organization. Unfortunately my product just supports the hook installation directly into a ceiling joust.
What support are you seeking? You can pick up mounting bits like I showed for relatively low cost on eBay and use them with Originals from any era, provided of course you have the proper electrical infrastructure to support the fans independent of a joist or direct building structure. If you're looking for further support on the fan itself, I can't offer you a lot, but I could refer you to Brian Hicks the Original expert who might be able to offer some sort of assistance: ruclips.net/user/mrfanman2u
At least compared to other Hunter models (like Summer Breeze, Berkeley, Augusta, Architect Series which I have, Infiniti, etc.) are not as heavy as the Original (if I'm not mistaken).
good job
Is there a way to tell if my joist is rated for a fan that heavy? It’s on a brace between beams, and seems to have been sprayed with roofing material so I can’t even tell if it’s metal. I have hung vintage ceiling fans before but nothing with the weight of an original.
Given all that, it's hard to say. First, I'd establish what's metal, that's the major key here. See if you can scratch anything away to figure that out? I'd put some of your own weight on it and see if the brace flexes or moves, or just rips out of the ceiling. If it's all metal and everything is attached correctly, and the fan mounts with 10-32 screws, it *should* be okay. But do not take this as confirmation of anything, I have no idea unless I can get up in your ceiling myself.
Vintage Fans & More okay, it is a plastic box, and it’s bolted directly onto a thick block of wood that is fastened to a brace using two adjoining pieces of wood. The plastic eared box alone tells me I should probably have a contractor change out the boxes before hanging anything as heavy as an original. In fact the install in general seems to be less than safe. www.dropbox.com/s/p3ct5llbjl8p71l/Photo%20Sep%2006%2C%206%2054%2057%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Yep, don't want to put ANY fan on a plastic box, unless it's one designed to attach through into structure above the box. It seems to be scabbed onto the joist, they'll do this to center the box in the room without the cost of a lighting brace. Perfectly fine for a light, but not for an Original. Actually I wouldn't put any fan on scabbed boxes, there's just not enough support. If you go the contractor route, I would consider consulting with them on specifically what you want done before they come out to install, since every contractor has a preference of the setup and system they consistently use for fans, and it's not always to Original standards. I've seen people pay an electrician to come in, and the result is worse than what they had to begin with. There are 3 basic variations I'd consider doing.
1: Span the joists that the box opening sits between with a 2x4 or better, positioned vertically in the space (same orientation as the joists) and solidly screwed through the joists on both ends with multiple screws. Set it high enough that a metal box can be mounted to the bottom. I prefer the Westinghouse Saf-T-Box because it has the threaded posts built in that I feel most comfortable mounting Originals to. They're usually in stock at Home Depot stores near the fan displays: www.homedepot.com/p/Westinghouse-15-5-cu-in-Heavy-Duty-New-Construction-Ceiling-Fan-Saf-T-Box-0105000/204845564
2: Use a retrofit brace rated for 50+ pounds to span the joists. 70+ is even better, I forget what they're making these days. Westinghouse makes a Saf-T-Brace kit, which includes the box I like, but I kind of hate their bracket and its also kinda flimsy for an Original in my opinion. I pretty much always do braces for ease of use and installation from below the ceiling, I like these ones from Reiker a lot: www.amazon.com/Legrand-Seymour-Retrofit-25-Cubic-Inch-Electrical/dp/B0000DG9BG Their box isn't quite as good, but I had one of these in my old bedroom and had Originals on it many times. Worked really well, just make sure the fan is mounted to it with the 10-32 screws. The little mounting bits rotate to alternate between 8-32 and 10-32.
3: Do the first option with the wood to span the joist, but use a saddle box that allows you to bolt through the box and into the wood above, rather than to the box itself: www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-1-Gang-Black-Plastic-Interior-New-Work-Standard-Saddle-Boxes-Ceiling-Electrical-Box/1057119?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-lia-_-206-_-electricalboxes-_-1057119-_-0&store_code=1650&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh8jrBRDQARIsAH7BsXeFgGrKwOqJeA4H2KRculpEjvL2d-DDdgqK6xvIPlujNz0b1xoSENgaAuYHEALw_wcB
These are actually ideal for Originals, because the fan is hung independent of the box and you can use truly proper lag bolts to support the u-bolt, rather than screws into a box. They're just kind of a pain, I don't like saddle boxes compared to the other options, but it may be an option certain contractors would consider above others.
In any case, new holes may and likely will have to be drilled in the u-bolt to align with the holes of the box. They intentionally manufacture them to not align with boxes to deter people who don't know better from hanging them on the wrong boxes. I don't know if you have all the parts like the u-bolt, but if not I'd grab replacements on eBay. At this point I would never recommend hanging anything from a screw-into-wood j-hook. It's no longer to code, and absolutely NEVER use one for a reversible fan. It ends in disaster all too often.
This got a bit wordy, but if you're getting somebody in to do it, I wanted what I would do to be clear so you don't waste time and money. These are literally the only ways I will hang an Original (and it's great for almost ANY other fan, too!). I would not accept anything less. Speaking as someone who has worked as an electrician, they like to say they've installed hundreds of fans and know so much about them, but in my experience, most know next to nothing about any of it.
Vintage Fans & More The new box is holding it quite nicely! I am noticing it’s running a bit sluggish compared to what I expected, do I just need to let it run for a while to let the oil do it’s job and the motor catch it’s wind? www.dropbox.com/s/tx7tdh1b02j64ga/Photo%20Sep%2013%2C%2012%2049%2021%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Looks great! If performance hasn't changed within a few minutes of running, it's potentially gummed up and needs an entire disassembly and internal cleaning. If you've already cleaned it out or it didn't seem bad, I'm not entirely sure beyond that. I'm not an Original expert by any means, don't know all the nuances of what can go wrong.
Or I guess maybe want something else rather?
Can this fan be used outside
The new ones are actually damp rated, but most Originals can and have been used outside regardless of age. If you're putting in an older model, I'd consider sealing the blades and possibly motor finish with a clear coat if you're in any kind of humid or salt air region. New ones should be ok for most applications as-is. I would not install any Original in a wet location with direct moisture exposure, like an open pergola where direct rain could fall on it. The fans are open on top of the motor, which would allow water into a lot of critical parts of the fan.
is that fan made In the usa
This is from the Made in USA period, yes.
How much do hunter originals usually cost or weigh?
Total weight is usually between 40-50 pounds, depending on a few factors. Excluding sizes smaller than 52".
Cost depends on if you're buying new or on the used market, and where you're buying if used. Current retail is $499, you can look at eBay at any given time and see where the used market is going.
Vintage Fans & More I found a white hunter original on letgo for 100$, I hope my mom will let me get it! this will be my first original 😁
Amazing Video!!!!!!! Great Job!!
The black wire with the white stripe..what wire from the ceiling does that connect to?
It's the hot feed for the light kit. If you have no light, it does not need to be connected.
@@vfandm Okay, although my Hunter Original does have one and I had no idea what wire it needed to connect it to. Coming out of the ceiling are white (neutral) black (fan motor) blue for light kit and bare copper for ground. If I'm correct, then I'm assuming it's the black w/ white stripe to the blue?
That sounds correct to me.
Liked video, I can tell you from long hard experience that zoom spout oil is NO good for a hunter fan, why, while it works good for a few drops in say a blower motor, the parifin guts churned and gums up and yes it will stop running like it is churning taffy. I have tried sewing machine oil, not bad but the very best is 10 wt non detergent. Where can you buy it, online in quarts or Tractor supply store. I have had these fans for more than 35 years going strong, I own 7 of them, once a year I give them a squirt, they should not need more oil once installed, but do seem to need toped off.
I appreciate that feedback and information. At this point I've heard just about every debate over which oils aside from 10 wt non detergent should and shouldn't be used in Originals, I'm prepared to fully dismantle and clean out any fan that may eventually become gummed up as a result of my own choice. Honestly though, I don't install/run my Originals for an extended enough period for them to have any issue with the oil inside.
I can attest to that.. I am pretty sure that I convinced most of the fan collectors that ZSO was the best, but after running it in some fans for about 7 years, the spiral grooves were all clogged up and I had a failure of a fan. The fan in particular was a 02' Chinese fan. ZSO works great with bronze bushings where the parrafin residue is actually desired as it will stop the bearing from wiping if it goes dry. In these fans the spiral oil grooves pump the oil up the shaft, unfortunately, the paraffin collects there in the grooves and boom. It may be a case of mixing the oem oil and zso, but I too have found that 10wt from tractor supply is best. I have also been known to use a 5w20 in a pinch.
I would use this as a guide if I'm installing an original.
just make sure I doesn't create a crack on your ceiling. unless if your house has enough support to hold the fan in place.
It shouldn't if you do it properly. But if your ceiling joists can't support a simple 45 pound fan, then it's not safe to be living under in the first place.
Vintage Fans & More I never knew Originals weight that much. I seen them at a TGI Friday's restaurant.
Vintage Fans & More I'm also wondering if I can install this fan inside my apartment bedroom. I currently live in the Los Angeles area and it gets too hot. And my apartment doesn't have a central AC
As long as you have the proper mounting accommodations and are clear with landlords, etc. I can't say there's any reason you couldn't.
Then you install it, ah man now I don’t like
These are immenseley overpriced here in the UK. £1000! No one's going to spend that much on a fan...
here in the USA. Hunter Originals cost $300 retail price
Your point being?
theZombieSlayerSxg just want to compare.
What are you talking about
+theZombieSlayerSxg I think his point is, is that these fans are cheaper to buy here in the USA. Used Originals go for even cheaper usually and are better quality than the new ones.