This is easily one of my favorite budget keyboards. I picked up the white bare bones kit since I wanted to use KTT macaron green switches. It sounds so amazing.
I haven't tried any other switches other than the KTT macaron green on this keyboard. I have used cherry pbt and polycarbonate key caps. You really can't go wrong with any combo since all the sound signatures sound very similar. I think it mainly depends if you like linear or tactile switches. @@keebtunes
Thank you so much. I saw your video and i had to have the Leobog hi75. I chose the NIMBUS V3 which had the pbt keycaps that i prefer over the abs. IT IS amazing! Just pure love for that keyboard. Thank you
My friend, this keyboard only costs less than $30 in Chinese Mainland. You can consider the new leobog hi8 and the new rainy 75 and infi 100. These three keyboards are all less than $80 in China, and all support 2.4G connections. The HI75 is outdated
I recently acquired two of these keyboards: one with SOA keycaps, the Blueberry variant, and the second featuring MDA profile keycaps as seen in this video, but in its wired form. Surprisingly, these keyboards surpass the performance of my handbuilt TOFU from a few years back, especially in terms of sound quality. They offer what I'd consider endgame sound quality for less than $100. Given their popularity, they're selling out fast. I opted for the wired HI75 model. The Blueberry version, with its unique SOA keycaps, produces an even better and deeper sound, so I've decided to keep both, especially since the SOA model is no longer listed on Amazon.
Truly I feel the same way about this board, and their newer board, the HI80...they really do come with end game sounds at really budget price! Even if we were to get the barebones and pop in switches without any mods, it'll still sound surprisingly amazing! I can't rave enough about this board
Sorry for my English , but I have a question . Are you moding with something? Like a foam mod or tape mod , or lub the switches ? or is the default sound with any mods ?
Hi KeebTunes - I've purchased this keyboard but the backspace and the left Shift sounds horrible! Did you have any issues with the stabilisers making such noise? If so, how did you fix it for the video? Thanks in advance!
I actually didn't fix it for the video cause my stabs didn't have any problems but you know these things get mass produced so sometimes they aren't tuned well. Is the rattle more pronounced on one side than another? Does it sound hollow or rattly?
@@keebtunes Thank you for the response. Did you have any issue with a tactile bump on the nimbus switch as I saw something about that in another comment. That issue is the only thing holding me back from choosing the nimbus combo.
I personally haven't noticed it affecting my typing experience in any way and typed very nicely, and the tactility is more of a feel as the switch has a lighter frontend downstroke with a heavier bottom out. I alsooke tactile switches too though, so maybe it never bothered me lol
Hi Brie, there isn't one specifically from this series (yet) but there are other boards of similar quality that do, or you can get a standalone numpad as well! Lmk if you need help
hi, what do you think, is it worth buying leobog hi8 now or not? it costs almost three times less and the sound is almost the same? and what do you think, is it better to take aula f75 or build a custom one based on leobog
hi! Leobog Hi8 if you want wireless, cause they're basically the same as the Hi75 (prebuilt hi75 for $90 vs hi8 for $90 USD). The Aula's a great budget option if you don't care that the chassis is plastic over aluminum - sound quality and typing experience on this is just as good as the Leobog, and I'd only really recommend building out your own Leobog if you already have an idea about how you'd want to build it a certain way. I own both of these Leobogs and I have a barebones, but have been pretty satisfied with their prebuilts that I hadn't felt a need to build out mine a certain way. I think if you don't like the colorway and if you have a specific switch in mind, then you should build your own - the barebones kits is really good! I don't think you'd even have to lube the stabs...they come that good in stock form.
Aside from the hi8 being BT and 2.4ghz enabled with a 8000mah battery, compared to the wired-only version of the hi75, they're really similar, aside from the chassis having a new back design, and the unframed around the arrow keys. Both will have 1000hz on wired, although I can't confirm the hi8's polling rate on wireless.
Yea, that's the only way that they sell it - it's just a combination offering. What you can do is buy a keycap set in the profile that you like and swap it out?
I bought the wired one and I really like it, but for some reason my board simply doesn't save my settings and RGB if I disconnect the keyboard from the PC (even though it should because it has an internal memory). Whenever I configure it on the software, it does work properly, but if I disconnect the keyboard from my PC and then recconect it, it loses all the settings and rgb I set in software before. Have you ever seen this issue? Is there a solution? I saw on reddit a github depository with a firmware update that should solve the issue, but when I download the .exe to update the firmware it simply doesn't run on my PC for some reason (also couldn't get it to work with my father's PC and neither on my notebook)
so after running the exe, it no longer works? You may have to hold FN + Esc to reset it first to see if that'll fix the non-working issue. I'll look into the RGB memory issue and get back with you.
@@keebtunes hey, thanks for the answer! No, the .exe actually doesn't run on any of the computers I tested, so I couldn't flash the firmware (supposedly firmware V4.0 is working fine, my keyboard came with V5.0). The keyboard is still working as before, with the same issue, but as long as I don't disconnect it from my PC it still keep the RGB memory (even if I turn off my PC). I just tried the FN + Esc to reset, but it actually does the same thing as when I disconnect the keyboard from my PC (meaning that when I disconnect it, it basically resets). I will wait for your next reply if you can find something out in regards to this issue, tysm and have a great day!
@jak3zera hi I'm still looking into it! I am getting my board out today to test out the RGB settings to see if it's across all boards or just a one-off
@@keebtunes hey, thanks for the support, I managed to fix it! The redditor explained to me that it was a program that needed to be run from CMD, so I did that and could flash the new firmware, now the keyboard is keeping all the settings as intended
Anything with a 1.0mm - 1.4mm pre-travel with light operating force around 30-55 gf will make for good gaming switches...although you may not want something "too" light since it'll result in more accidentals. But if you're spamming or just mainly on WASD, then it's probably fine. Maybe the Kailh speed series - www.kailh.net/products/kailh-speed-switch-set?variant=43775890555122 - the coppers are light and fast but they're all pretty decent Or the Cherry Mx Speed silver, which is incredibly fast (30gf and 1.2mm) I also like Akko Silvers because they're better priced, and have good stats too (40gf and 1.0mm) - en.akkogear.com/product/akko-v3-silver-pro-switch-45pcs/
Thanks, it does not need to be this brand, but one that has the same sound and color white? Could you recommend one please. I would rather have the num pad instead of the stand alone option. Thank you so much.
what about materials? Would you prefer a heavy keyboard (like this) that's made of aluminum, or would you rather a lighter keyboard made of ABS plastic or acrylic?
I'll check on this when I get home, but usually the knobs measure around 16mmx10mm for the real estate, but most knob sockets are universally sized to fit onto the knob mount.
@@keebtunes yeah other epomaker boards like the th80 must be using cheap PWM or something because they flicker. since so many things have gone LED at this point, its unacceptable to be using PWM to dim the lights
it seems there's 2 version in my country 25bucks for PBT Material while the Aluminum barebone is around 60bucks i wanna try the aluminum one looks good and premuim feeling but im curios too on PBT plastic one too looks practical in my everyday use and not too heavy ? idk
Plastic is going to be much better for commute/on the go, as it is much much lighter! I used to lug around an aluminum board and it became a hassle. Aluminum feels better but better suited at home
Typing this on the keyboard. I purchased the MDA profile with nimbus v3. Did you have any problems where it feels like some of the keys feel like the actuation isn't smooth when initially pressing down?
I think I know what you're feeling, and I think it's because of the springs in the Nimbus v3...I feel like it's a little too light on the initial downstroke and gets heavier, which kind of throws off the feel a little bit. I've been using it as my personal daily driver and I get that feeling sometimes...I think the graywood doesn't suffer from this, so maybe you could return that one and check out the other version instead?
@@keebtunes thats exactly what it feels like. To be honest it provides a slight tactile feel which I didn't know if I would like at first but grew on me after a few hours of use so I'm probably gonna keep it. Is it particularly noticeable for you on the backspace and esc key?
@@keebtunes Makes you wonder if it was intentional but I highly doubt it because it feels finicky. Good thing this board is hotswappable. Coming from a 4 year old rk61 I really cannot complain about this board. Overall very satisfied
@papadank1972 I read somewhere on their site or maybe the store page of the switches that their springs are supposed to feel soft then more rigid? Strange...it'd like the Nimbus v3 is trying to be a tactile without the bump 😂😂😂 Honestly, for the price of this board, I am shook that it's this nice. I'm a sucker for value over premium markups, and I think paying an extra 15 bucks (USD) for switches and caps over the barebones is so worth it
I am planning to get one but still confuse on what switches to choose? Which one is the creamiest sound? Nimbus or the graywood? Does the keycap profile matters as well? Thanks
Yeah they do matter somewhat actually..the cherry profiles are not as wide as the MDA and will have less resonance than the MDA...the pair that I have that's MDA x nimbus sound noticeably creamier
Does anyone else have a problem with the MDA profile’s dual knob not lighting up? Functions work. Trying to see if mine is defective or is there a way to light the knob.. there’s rgb everywhere but the knob
Try these two combinations: FN + backspace - I believe this combination changes the light settings on the knob. If not, hold FN + ESC to reset to factory settings. This should reset the knob lighting.
The tactility is somewhat noticeable if you pay attention to it when you're typing. Most of the time, it's barely noticeable, in my opinion, or maybe I just don't pay as much attention lol! But typing feel wise? I say they're about the same. I guess the best way today describe it is that it feels like it has more "chew", like with food
I think you'd want to use what you're most comfortable with already so that you don't have to relearn muscle memory. In most cases, that's going to be Cherry , but I think the height evenness of the DSA profiles makes it very comfortable to game on
hmmm hard to say , I hadn't tested the juggle but from the sound tests out there they sound fairly similar, especially when placed in the leobog - I don't think you can go wrong with either - it's just a matter if you like some tactility with the juggle, or more of a smooth keypress with the nimbus. Their stats otherwise are fairly similar.
@@keebtunes Okay thank you I wanted the juggles because I have never touched a tactile switch and whatever it is I would replace them with my linear switches mmd princess which sounds better it seems to me I said to myself that I would buy the complete kit and no, Barebonne will provide me with an additional pair of switches. Thank you again for your quick response.
If you've never used tactile, you should definitely try it, as I think most tactile switches just feels nice to type on and have a clean sound to them too! Definitely let me know how it goes!
That's awesome! And I definitely don't mind! English was my second language too! I wouldn't be able to speak to you in French, even with Google Translate 😭
Although all of the nice things about their keyboards, including how nice their keyboards look+sound, I am never going to buy one of these again. From my experience, as soon as I plugged in a Epomaker keyboard, it started deleting icons off my desktop. Later, it started to bring up lots of help websites without me touching it. Then my backspace, escape and f keys didnt work. Obviously I was so sad as although they are budget keyboards, they are still alot of money. I've tried to contact them but they never got back to me. Do you know how I could fix this
That's absolutely crazy...I don't think I've ever ran into this issue with any of the numerous epomaker boards that I've used. But hey, try holding FN + Esc for a few seconds to factory reset it and see if that fixes it
It's normally as I plug it in, it doesn't always happen straight away but it eventually does within a few minutes of plugging in.. I dont press any buttons though. It just happens randomly.@@keebtunes
I think I like the graywood just a little bit more? They're both fairly simple but the is slightly more clacky. But that's definitely my own preference :D
download keyboardinspector from github, run it and hit the record button, and spam keys for about 10-15 seconds, then analyze it. It's iffy, sometimes it doesn't read, so just do it a few times. github.com/mat1jaczyyy/Keyboard-Inspector
@@keebtunes if you say its 1000hz i will probably get it, i bought the aula f75 and i was happy with it but that keyboard only had 500hz so that was a nag for me because i noticed it on games like osu!
@@keebtunes but i guess it makes sense, the aula f75 is like 70$ all out and the hi75 is 100$ so thats probably why it has a better pcb and thus has 1000hz rather than 500hz
here are two great options for you: Aula F99: $75 with 5 dollar coupon amzn.to/3Kj0Zrz Leobog Hi98: $109 www.whatgeek.com/products/leobog-hi98-aluminum-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=45115884339453¤cy=USD&srsltid=AfmBOooZ-VI5WmrLeZYafMbAN8nlRckiFZwfQPvCJ_t0p6ua0utX7zCeMrc&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c The Aula is plastic, but has a very nice sounding profile, whereas the Leobog is aluminum and heavier, for about 40 dollars more.
the board is actually not by epomaker, epomaker just resells it! the board is actually designed and manu'd and produced by leobog :)
I should add an "x" in the title, because I do clarify that in my video
Wow! This is incredible! Sounds amazing!
Thank you so much bro!
This is easily one of my favorite budget keyboards. I picked up the white bare bones kit since I wanted to use KTT macaron green switches. It sounds so amazing.
I actually have the barebones version too but haven't gotten around to it yet...what do you recommend trying out on the barebones?
I haven't tried any other switches other than the KTT macaron green on this keyboard. I have used cherry pbt and polycarbonate key caps. You really can't go wrong with any combo since all the sound signatures sound very similar. I think it mainly depends if you like linear or tactile switches. @@keebtunes
I like anything except clickies! My problem is that I keep buying switches and KCs but never get around to putting them on :(
It looks and sounds good + it's cheap. Now that's a good keyboard!
Totally is!
Thank you so much. I saw your video and i had to have the Leobog hi75. I chose the NIMBUS V3 which had the pbt keycaps that i prefer over the abs. IT IS amazing! Just pure love for that keyboard. Thank you
absolutely lovee this kit so much! It's probably the cheapest for most value that you can get - still blows my mind...and it sounds so good LOL!
My friend, this keyboard only costs less than $30 in Chinese Mainland. You can consider the new leobog hi8 and the new rainy 75 and infi 100. These three keyboards are all less than $80 in China, and all support 2.4G connections. The HI75 is outdated
Wow that's incredibly inexpensive there. I did order a rainy and I have the HI80 coming soon too ;)
I recently acquired two of these keyboards: one with SOA keycaps, the Blueberry variant, and the second featuring MDA profile keycaps as seen in this video, but in its wired form. Surprisingly, these keyboards surpass the performance of my handbuilt TOFU from a few years back, especially in terms of sound quality. They offer what I'd consider endgame sound quality for less than $100. Given their popularity, they're selling out fast. I opted for the wired HI75 model. The Blueberry version, with its unique SOA keycaps, produces an even better and deeper sound, so I've decided to keep both, especially since the SOA model is no longer listed on Amazon.
Truly I feel the same way about this board, and their newer board, the HI80...they really do come with end game sounds at really budget price! Even if we were to get the barebones and pop in switches without any mods, it'll still sound surprisingly amazing! I can't rave enough about this board
Woah!!! The sound is phenomenal!
It's a budget within reach for most of us 😂
Nice to see that they got rid of that red knob
I'll have to see that..I like colorful stuff 😂
@@keebtunes they actually sell replacement knob parts in different colors!
I really like this variation cause of the crystal RGB design that they did for it, actually!
Sorry for my English , but I have a question . Are you moding with something? Like a foam mod or tape mod , or lub the switches ? or is the default sound with any mods ?
Hi! No mods or lube. Everything is stock here 😁 that's why this board is so awesome.
Ty for answer de the question 🙌🏼
@wussoma you're welcome!
Hi KeebTunes - I've purchased this keyboard but the backspace and the left Shift sounds horrible! Did you have any issues with the stabilisers making such noise? If so, how did you fix it for the video? Thanks in advance!
I actually didn't fix it for the video cause my stabs didn't have any problems but you know these things get mass produced so sometimes they aren't tuned well. Is the rattle more pronounced on one side than another? Does it sound hollow or rattly?
Hi, do you think the graywood switch with mda keycaps or nimbus switch with cherry keycaps is the better pick?
I would personally like the Nimbus with cherry if that option is available. The cherry curvature is more comfortable than MDA imo
@@keebtunes Thank you for the response. Did you have any issue with a tactile bump on the nimbus switch as I saw something about that in another comment. That issue is the only thing holding me back from choosing the nimbus combo.
I personally haven't noticed it affecting my typing experience in any way and typed very nicely, and the tactility is more of a feel as the switch has a lighter frontend downstroke with a heavier bottom out. I alsooke tactile switches too though, so maybe it never bothered me lol
Sounds amazing!! Is there one that has the number keypad???
Hi Brie, there isn't one specifically from this series (yet) but there are other boards of similar quality that do, or you can get a standalone numpad as well! Lmk if you need help
hi, what do you think, is it worth buying leobog hi8 now or not? it costs almost three times less and the sound is almost the same? and what do you think, is it better to take aula f75 or build a custom one based on leobog
hi! Leobog Hi8 if you want wireless, cause they're basically the same as the Hi75 (prebuilt hi75 for $90 vs hi8 for $90 USD). The Aula's a great budget option if you don't care that the chassis is plastic over aluminum - sound quality and typing experience on this is just as good as the Leobog, and I'd only really recommend building out your own Leobog if you already have an idea about how you'd want to build it a certain way. I own both of these Leobogs and I have a barebones, but have been pretty satisfied with their prebuilts that I hadn't felt a need to build out mine a certain way. I think if you don't like the colorway and if you have a specific switch in mind, then you should build your own - the barebones kits is really good! I don't think you'd even have to lube the stabs...they come that good in stock form.
@@keebtunes thanks, but still, what is the difference between hi8 and hi75 and why do they have such a difference in price (50 bucks on Ali)
Aside from the hi8 being BT and 2.4ghz enabled with a 8000mah battery, compared to the wired-only version of the hi75, they're really similar, aside from the chassis having a new back design, and the unframed around the arrow keys. Both will have 1000hz on wired, although I can't confirm the hi8's polling rate on wireless.
Where can I find one of those keyboard mats you used in the sound test. I need one!!!
Ooo I got them from www.keebmat.com! They're awesome people...
Hi @KeebTunes, Does the Graywood switches comes with the cherry profile only. How does this works?
Yea, that's the only way that they sell it - it's just a combination offering. What you can do is buy a keycap set in the profile that you like and swap it out?
I bought the wired one and I really like it, but for some reason my board simply doesn't save my settings and RGB if I disconnect the keyboard from the PC (even though it should because it has an internal memory). Whenever I configure it on the software, it does work properly, but if I disconnect the keyboard from my PC and then recconect it, it loses all the settings and rgb I set in software before. Have you ever seen this issue? Is there a solution? I saw on reddit a github depository with a firmware update that should solve the issue, but when I download the .exe to update the firmware it simply doesn't run on my PC for some reason (also couldn't get it to work with my father's PC and neither on my notebook)
so after running the exe, it no longer works? You may have to hold FN + Esc to reset it first to see if that'll fix the non-working issue. I'll look into the RGB memory issue and get back with you.
@@keebtunes hey, thanks for the answer! No, the .exe actually doesn't run on any of the computers I tested, so I couldn't flash the firmware (supposedly firmware V4.0 is working fine, my keyboard came with V5.0). The keyboard is still working as before, with the same issue, but as long as I don't disconnect it from my PC it still keep the RGB memory (even if I turn off my PC). I just tried the FN + Esc to reset, but it actually does the same thing as when I disconnect the keyboard from my PC (meaning that when I disconnect it, it basically resets). I will wait for your next reply if you can find something out in regards to this issue, tysm and have a great day!
@jak3zera hi I'm still looking into it! I am getting my board out today to test out the RGB settings to see if it's across all boards or just a one-off
@@keebtunes hey, thanks for the support, I managed to fix it! The redditor explained to me that it was a program that needed to be run from CMD, so I did that and could flash the new firmware, now the keyboard is keeping all the settings as intended
@jak3zera that's awesome!!
Just ordered one for $90
From where?
It's on Amazon - try searching for leobog hi75
You'll love it
I just ordered one :) vertex v1 switches moa keycaps!
Let the creaminess flow!
stop by and let me know what you think of it!
Nice vid mate
Thank you my friend
ive used the hyperx alloy origins but the i key broke, which switch would be better for gaming?
Anything with a 1.0mm - 1.4mm pre-travel with light operating force around 30-55 gf will make for good gaming switches...although you may not want something "too" light since it'll result in more accidentals. But if you're spamming or just mainly on WASD, then it's probably fine.
Maybe the Kailh speed series - www.kailh.net/products/kailh-speed-switch-set?variant=43775890555122 - the coppers are light and fast but they're all pretty decent
Or the Cherry Mx Speed silver, which is incredibly fast (30gf and 1.2mm)
I also like Akko Silvers because they're better priced, and have good stats too (40gf and 1.0mm) - en.akkogear.com/product/akko-v3-silver-pro-switch-45pcs/
I hope this helps
Thanks, it does not need to be this brand, but one that has the same sound and color white? Could you recommend one please. I would rather have the num pad instead of the stand alone option. Thank you so much.
what about materials? Would you prefer a heavy keyboard (like this) that's made of aluminum, or would you rather a lighter keyboard made of ABS plastic or acrylic?
and I'm assuming you want it prebuilt, rather than putting everthing together yourself right?
Materials don’t matter as long as it sounds like this. The sound, num pad and color white are the must!! 😊
white board and white keycaps right?
I just ordered today the white/blue/ purple keycaps with the aluminum body. I can’t wait to get it!! Thank you so much. !!
Do you have measurements for the knob? I waiting for my keyboard to be shipped, and want to replace the knob with something else
I'll check on this when I get home, but usually the knobs measure around 16mmx10mm for the real estate, but most knob sockets are universally sized to fit onto the knob mount.
yes from the video it looks like they fixed the flicker for the LED lights beneath each key. every board maker should be doing this
So was that initially a problem with this board's pcb? If so, I'm happy that they fixed it.
@@keebtunes yeah other epomaker boards like the th80 must be using cheap PWM or something because they flicker. since so many things have gone LED at this point, its unacceptable to be using PWM to dim the lights
That's good to know so I can check for this in the future thanks alot bro
Love the vid!
Thanks bro!
it seems there's 2 version in my country
25bucks for PBT Material
while the Aluminum barebone is around 60bucks
i wanna try the aluminum one looks good and premuim feeling but im curios too on PBT plastic one too looks practical in my everyday use and not too heavy ? idk
Plastic is going to be much better for commute/on the go, as it is much much lighter! I used to lug around an aluminum board and it became a hassle. Aluminum feels better but better suited at home
Typing this on the keyboard. I purchased the MDA profile with nimbus v3. Did you have any problems where it feels like some of the keys feel like the actuation isn't smooth when initially pressing down?
I think I know what you're feeling, and I think it's because of the springs in the Nimbus v3...I feel like it's a little too light on the initial downstroke and gets heavier, which kind of throws off the feel a little bit. I've been using it as my personal daily driver and I get that feeling sometimes...I think the graywood doesn't suffer from this, so maybe you could return that one and check out the other version instead?
@@keebtunes thats exactly what it feels like. To be honest it provides a slight tactile feel which I didn't know if I would like at first but grew on me after a few hours of use so I'm probably gonna keep it. Is it particularly noticeable for you on the backspace and esc key?
@@papadank1972 I think so! The bigger keys stand out more for sure, but honestly, like you, I felt good about it after a few days too
@@keebtunes Makes you wonder if it was intentional but I highly doubt it because it feels finicky. Good thing this board is hotswappable. Coming from a 4 year old rk61 I really cannot complain about this board. Overall very satisfied
@papadank1972 I read somewhere on their site or maybe the store page of the switches that their springs are supposed to feel soft then more rigid? Strange...it'd like the Nimbus v3 is trying to be a tactile without the bump 😂😂😂
Honestly, for the price of this board, I am shook that it's this nice. I'm a sucker for value over premium markups, and I think paying an extra 15 bucks (USD) for switches and caps over the barebones is so worth it
I am planning to get one but still confuse on what switches to choose? Which one is the creamiest sound? Nimbus or the graywood? Does the keycap profile matters as well? Thanks
Yeah they do matter somewhat actually..the cherry profiles are not as wide as the MDA and will have less resonance than the MDA...the pair that I have that's MDA x nimbus sound noticeably creamier
@@keebtunesor maybe pairing it up to a Wuque Morandi switches with a MDA keycap profile will sound creamier?
I don't have personal experience with the morandis so I can't say for sure, but based on other wuque switches that I've used, I'd say yes?
Gonna stick with the prebuilt for now with the Nimbus switches and will just change in the future. ☺️
@@budzalmighty829 good call... You're going to get addicted and keep wanting to try out new ones in the future anyways 😂
Are the Cherry profile ones doubleshot abs or pbt? or maybe dye sub?
it's dye sub pbt
@@keebtunes ok ty
Does anyone else have a problem with the MDA profile’s dual knob not lighting up? Functions work. Trying to see if mine is defective or is there a way to light the knob.. there’s rgb everywhere but the knob
Try these two combinations:
FN + backspace - I believe this combination changes the light settings on the knob.
If not, hold FN + ESC to reset to factory settings. This should reset the knob lighting.
Different keys and switch profiles, but I swear I thought they were the same! ❤
they definitely look similar!
does
tactile feel good? I only ever had linear
The tactility is somewhat noticeable if you pay attention to it when you're typing. Most of the time, it's barely noticeable, in my opinion, or maybe I just don't pay as much attention lol! But typing feel wise? I say they're about the same. I guess the best way today describe it is that it feels like it has more "chew", like with food
Which keycaps profile would be best for gaming?
I think you'd want to use what you're most comfortable with already so that you don't have to relearn muscle memory. In most cases, that's going to be Cherry , but I think the height evenness of the DSA profiles makes it very comfortable to game on
Thank you 🙏
you're so welcome!!! Thanks for stopping by and asking. HMU if you need anything else
what is the thing under the keyboard?
those are keyboard mats - this one is called a keebmat - you can check them out at keebmat.com/products/keebmat#keebtunes
@@keebtunes ty
Are the sound sf the juggle v2 switches as good as the nimbus v3 ?
hmmm hard to say , I hadn't tested the juggle but from the sound tests out there they sound fairly similar, especially when placed in the leobog - I don't think you can go wrong with either - it's just a matter if you like some tactility with the juggle, or more of a smooth keypress with the nimbus. Their stats otherwise are fairly similar.
@@keebtunes Okay thank you I wanted the juggles because I have never touched a tactile switch and whatever it is I would replace them with my linear switches mmd princess which sounds better it seems to me I said to myself that I would buy the complete kit and no, Barebonne will provide me with an additional pair of switches. Thank you again for your quick response.
@@keebtunes excuse me for my bad english (google translate) , I'm French 😅
If you've never used tactile, you should definitely try it, as I think most tactile switches just feels nice to type on and have a clean sound to them too! Definitely let me know how it goes!
That's awesome! And I definitely don't mind! English was my second language too! I wouldn't be able to speak to you in French, even with Google Translate 😭
Although all of the nice things about their keyboards, including how nice their keyboards look+sound, I am never going to buy one of these again. From my experience, as soon as I plugged in a Epomaker keyboard, it started deleting icons off my desktop. Later, it started to bring up lots of help websites without me touching it. Then my backspace, escape and f keys didnt work. Obviously I was so sad as although they are budget keyboards, they are still alot of money. I've tried to contact them but they never got back to me. Do you know how I could fix this
That's absolutely crazy...I don't think I've ever ran into this issue with any of the numerous epomaker boards that I've used. But hey, try holding FN + Esc for a few seconds to factory reset it and see if that fixes it
Yeah sadly i've already tried that, but because it still doesnt work. 😅 Thanks so much though.. @@keebtunes
Are there any specific buttons that are pressed before things start getting whacky or just as soon as you plug in?
It's normally as I plug it in, it doesn't always happen straight away but it eventually does within a few minutes of plugging in.. I dont press any buttons though. It just happens randomly.@@keebtunes
That's really strange...has the board been opened up and or modded?
Which switch do you prefer?!
I think I like the graywood just a little bit more? They're both fairly simple but the is slightly more clacky. But that's definitely my own preference :D
is it QMK compatible?
no sir it is not
is it good for gaming tho?
depends...what are you looking for when you game?
could i work in the dark with it?
there's RGB on it for sure, but the keycaps are not shinethrough so you'd have to already be a touch typist to really work in the dark with it.
its 37$ for the kit on aliexpress
That's stupid cheap!
do you hav a link out for it? have a barebones already but hell I'd get a few more of these if they're that cheap
yo do you have a link for that?
No software drive for mac, sadly!!
Yeah they didn't show mac any love
how do you know its 1000hz
download keyboardinspector from github, run it and hit the record button, and spam keys for about 10-15 seconds, then analyze it. It's iffy, sometimes it doesn't read, so just do it a few times.
github.com/mat1jaczyyy/Keyboard-Inspector
@@keebtunes if you say its 1000hz i will probably get it, i bought the aula f75 and i was happy with it but that keyboard only had 500hz so that was a nag for me because i noticed it on games like osu!
I appreciate the trust! I definitely understand..I'm picky as helll over my equipment when I'm gaming too lol
@@keebtunes but i guess it makes sense, the aula f75 is like 70$ all out and the hi75 is 100$ so thats probably why it has a better pcb and thus has 1000hz rather than 500hz
yea, the Aula is also wireless too so it's a lot more features for the price, while the hi75 is wired only.
Yes pre built as im not techie at all. Lol.
lol no problem at all - I'll collate a few suggestions and post it back to you here!
but do you have a budget range? they get out of hand sometimes lol...
here are two great options for you:
Aula F99: $75 with 5 dollar coupon amzn.to/3Kj0Zrz
Leobog Hi98: $109 www.whatgeek.com/products/leobog-hi98-aluminum-wired-mechanical-keyboard?variant=45115884339453¤cy=USD&srsltid=AfmBOooZ-VI5WmrLeZYafMbAN8nlRckiFZwfQPvCJ_t0p6ua0utX7zCeMrc&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c
The Aula is plastic, but has a very nice sounding profile, whereas the Leobog is aluminum and heavier, for about 40 dollars more.
Thank you so so much!!!!! . I absolutely love the white with the blue. I might go with the heavier one. :)
@@brierobinson194 awesome! Come share feedback when you get it. If you like it, share some pics of it and I can post it on the community post!
for a wired keyboard is too expensive!!!!!
This is actually considered "budget" against other more expensive boards of the same builds 😂
90$ if u live in usa xdd 100$ outside usa
That sucks...
This board is dog water. I had to return mine cause hitting space bar wouldn't register unless you press it from the very center.
Sounds like it could've just been a bad switch bro that's def not supposed to hsppen
My god, step away from the microphone this is impossible to watch
thx for the feedback! I'll try to do better next time