Just the sound of that Cobra! It must be tempting to say the road test was not entirely conclusive and you need another lap on the dual carriageway! 😉😂
Now with fuels with alcohol added, the stoichiometric ratio is changed depending on how much alcohol is blended. E10 is very common alone with E15. Stoichiometric rises to approximately 14.1:1. Edelbrock AVS2 carburettors come with annular primary boosters along with different tune to accomodate the ethanol. The Performer Series can have the annlar boosters installed. Best would be to start with the AVS2 factory jets and metering rods when switching to the annular boosters. They tend to atomize fuel better than regular boosters, so work well on air gap style manifolds.
i got 1990 k5 blazer 5.7 had it rebuild with a few up grades everything is pretty mush stock i up graded the cam to a howard cam rattler lift 225/230 duration 0.50/227/235 centerline 03 i still have the factory swirl port heads i got headers 3' pipes all the way back i up graded my torque converter to 2000 to 2400 stall and 4:10 gears i just put my engine in about a week ago it was a tbi so i converted it to carb...im having problem trying to get it to run right i put a brandnew edelbrock carb 1406 on it..i got 12-887 holley regulator set it to 6 psi i got it to run starts up good but its backfiring and popping out my exhaust ..i have a vacuum port on my regulator but did not hook it up dont no if thats the problem or not..or is the carb to small for my set up...you can smell the burning and the raw gas in park when u accelerate and give it more gas it sound good but at idling its popping and backfiring like someome popping fire crackers..tell me what you think
Sounds like you need a proper setup on the carb and ignition (i.e ignition advance checked and AFR's). The vacuum reference on the fuel pressure regulator would not normally be used on this carb setup.
Some years ago I bought from your online shop a new distributor, with magnecor plug wires and rpi’s power amp. I bought to this carburetor in the video. They worker fine a lot of years but, Little by little they have become unbalanced. I managed to have decent co levels(0,50) for mot test but hc are high at idle (2650). I think distributor is out of point. My car is a 1983 RRC, 5 speed manual, 3.5 v8 with his original motor. My question is, how many degrees I must adjust in my distributor? What are the expected values of CO and hydrocarbons for this engine? Could the high hydrocarbons be due to the distributor being out of adjustment or faulty?
Vacuum gauges can be tricky to use as an instrument for final absolute mixture adjustments, even more so if the ignition timing is not at optimum idle ignition timing BTDC from which the engine can respond. For a relatively standard cam profile I would have been looking for at least 18 to 20 Hg inch at idle, achieved from optimising the ignition timing alone. This is indicated by the green zone on the vacuum dial. After which I would then be more inclined to monitor vacuum changes from idle mixture adjustment. In the video you're working from an inlet vacuum reading of 15 to 16 HG inch, a redzone, in which it will be written 'ignition is retarded' on the vacuum gauge dial. Ok it will run that bit hotter with this ignition timing and reduce hydrocarbons for an MOT test, but it's quite a bit away from the optimum for the engine to run at, or for it to respond to fine idle mixture adjustments.
Unfortunately not. I think we may have supplied a few people some gaskets over the years but other than that I dont think we have ever seen one up close.
Please help. My Rover v8 3.5 with twin SU's was running so rich and choking itself to death would not tick over and stalling, running like pig. So bit the bullet and bought a 390 holly set-up. Still the same, arrgghhh/... I have good compression, a new electronic distributor, new leads, new plugs, please can someone give me some advice? happy to pay.. i have never had it running correctly since purchase..
Nice set of videos created on the Edlebrock Carb Kit.
Great video but glad I brought Arnie to you for that process. Seems a wee bit involved for my capabilities.
great video my brother
Just the sound of that Cobra!
It must be tempting to say the road test was not entirely conclusive and you need another lap on the dual carriageway!
😉😂
Now with fuels with alcohol added, the stoichiometric ratio is changed depending on how much alcohol is blended. E10 is very common alone with E15. Stoichiometric rises to approximately 14.1:1.
Edelbrock AVS2 carburettors come with annular primary boosters along with different tune to accomodate the ethanol. The Performer Series can have the annlar boosters installed. Best would be to start with the AVS2 factory jets and metering rods when switching to the annular boosters. They tend to atomize fuel better than regular boosters, so work well on air gap style manifolds.
i got 1990 k5 blazer 5.7 had it rebuild with a few up grades everything is pretty mush stock i up graded the cam to a howard cam rattler lift 225/230 duration 0.50/227/235 centerline 03 i still have the factory swirl port heads i got headers 3' pipes all the way back i up graded my torque converter to 2000 to 2400 stall and 4:10 gears i just put my engine in about a week ago it was a tbi so i converted it to carb...im having problem trying to get it to run right i put a brandnew edelbrock carb 1406 on it..i got 12-887 holley regulator set it to 6 psi i got it to run starts up good but its backfiring and popping out my exhaust ..i have a vacuum port on my regulator but did not hook it up dont no if thats the problem or not..or is the carb to small for my set up...you can smell the burning and the raw gas in park when u accelerate and give it more gas it sound good but at idling its popping and backfiring like someome popping fire crackers..tell me what you think
Sounds like you need a proper setup on the carb and ignition (i.e ignition advance checked and AFR's). The vacuum reference on the fuel pressure regulator would not normally be used on this carb setup.
Thanks Boys ...
Some years ago I bought from your online shop a new distributor, with magnecor plug wires and rpi’s power amp. I bought to this carburetor in the video. They worker fine a lot of years but, Little by little they have become unbalanced. I managed to have decent co levels(0,50) for mot test but hc are high at idle (2650). I think distributor is out of point.
My car is a 1983 RRC, 5 speed manual, 3.5 v8 with his original motor.
My question is, how many degrees I must adjust in my distributor? What are the expected values of CO and hydrocarbons for this engine? Could the high hydrocarbons be due to the distributor being out of adjustment or faulty?
Vacuum gauges can be tricky to use as an instrument for final absolute mixture adjustments, even more so if the ignition timing is not at optimum idle ignition timing BTDC from which the engine can respond. For a relatively standard cam profile I would have been looking for at least 18 to 20 Hg inch at idle, achieved from optimising the ignition timing alone. This is indicated by the green zone on the vacuum dial. After which I would then be more inclined to monitor vacuum changes from idle mixture adjustment. In the video you're working from an inlet vacuum reading of 15 to 16 HG inch, a redzone, in which it will be written 'ignition is retarded' on the vacuum gauge dial. Ok it will run that bit hotter with this ignition timing and reduce hydrocarbons for an MOT test, but it's quite a bit away from the optimum for the engine to run at, or for it to respond to fine idle mixture adjustments.
Have you guys done anything with p76 4.4s before? Looking at what I can do to make it last as long as possible before it goes into my rrc
Unfortunately not. I think we may have supplied a few people some gaskets over the years but other than that I dont think we have ever seen one up close.
Please help. My Rover v8 3.5 with twin SU's was running so rich and choking itself to death would not tick over and stalling, running like pig. So bit the bullet and bought a 390 holly set-up. Still the same, arrgghhh/... I have good compression, a new electronic distributor, new leads, new plugs, please can someone give me some advice? happy to pay.. i have never had it running correctly since purchase..
Late, but look at fuel pressure.