Might want to be careful with the door pillars, some cars have air bags that are in the pillars. If so if it ever deploys you will run the risk of have that cable inserted in you quite roughly. If you have air bags in the door pillars you may want to remove the pillar covering and run the cable behind the airbags kept free of the obstruction.
This video showed Jay from BlackICE doing his auto-electric thing. He's done so many he could probably do it in his sleep : ) Because Jay is a competent auto electrician, he knows which wires he can and can't splice. Without this knowledge, it's best to be a little more cautious. Personally I'd always prefer to see a dedicated line installed, especially if you're adding a high-power item like an Amp. But for low power items like DashCams, Piggys work just fine. Hope this helps.
You're absolutely right. That's a challenge anytime. The only advice I can offer is follow the cables - at some point they'll pass through the firewall and into the cabin, behind the dash. But even then it's not always easy to follow. Hope this helps.
Theoretically yes, BUT I wouldn't advise it. That's a lot of power. Anything 10 or over should be a dedicated line in my mind. Small things like dashcams only use around 3 Amps typically, so they're normally quite safe to tap. But if your needs are more heavy duty, play safe and run a separate line.
@@vogman thank you. But the idea is to use the fuse tap to connect another 12v socket to which I will plugin the dashcam power adapter. I understand that 15amp fuse is a on higher side for the daahcam, but I choose to use that because I currently have no lower rated fuse...
If you're doing the same as I did and adding a hidden socket to plug a dashcam into, then you should be fine, but don't leave the socket on display for general use. If a device is plugged in to the original socket AND you new socket at the same time, this COULD potentially overload the wiring. So only use this extension socket for the dashcam or similarly low current items. And get yourself a 5 amp fuse : )
@@vogman My car has a 15A fuse (installed) for heated seats, but my trim model doesn't have heated seats. Do you think the factory just put a fuse in there regardless? Anyhow, I would like to hook up my dash cam using a piggy back fuse holder. Can I just use this 15A circuit to do so? Keeping the 15A fuse in the lower slot. It will be dedicated just to the dash cam. The dash cam I am using measures at 2A. Please let me know!
Hi Soheb. Thanks for the kind comments. It's very hard for me to say which fuse as I'm not there with you and as every case is different. Ideally you're looking for a fuse that's not used much. For example, a cigarette lighter socket... unless you have items already plugged into this, there's probably no current being drawn. So that's a good fuse to tap. As long as you're not putting too much load on a circuit as a general rule pick a lower fuse size. I can't guarantee anything as all makes and models are different, be generally the average auto wire can handle 20 Amps or so. So if you select a 10 Amp fuse and add a 5 Amp tap, that's 15 Amps drawing through a 20 Amp wire... you've got 5 Amps to spare. Whatever you do, just keep a close eye on it for a few weeks - just in case. Hope this helps. Geoff
so you mention that there's already a fuse in the adapter, does this mean that the inline fuse for the socket (assuming that i have no intention of ever using it for anything else) is unnecessary?
The "socket" is just like an electric outlet in your home - its purpose is to power any non-specific device that can plug into it. Ideally, just like in your home, it should be fused to protect the wires that supply power to it from overheating / melting (see my OVERLOAD video). Adaptors like the one shown typically contain fuses rated for the devices they are connected to. In theory, just like in your home, the fuse to the socket would be larger than the fuse in the device adaptor. In my video Jay (who is an auto electrician) spliced into existing wiring to power the socket. He knows his business and it's not for me to second guess him in his choice of wire, but you'll note that he did include an inline fuse to the socket as well (approx 7 mins in). This way he can be sure that the socket he has fitted is independently fused and is unlikely to overload the wiring loom that he's spliced into. And that's the point right there... he didn't want the socket potentially overloading the existing loom, and that's why it's fused. I hope this helps : )
Hi Munzoor. There's generally a fuse built into the cigarette-lighter-adaptor, usually 5 Amps I think. Taking these adaptors apart is easy - just unscrew the silver ring. That will expose the fuse and you can check for yourself. Best wishes, Geoff
+John Wood Hi John, thanks for your comments and question. In truth I didn't fit the dashcam (well, I didn't wire it in). I had a friend, an auto electrician do the job, and I hope I make that clear on the video. I have done other things in the past and I have used Piggyback Fuse holder, which is which I mention it in this video and why I specifically made this video - ruclips.net/video/8omZ545Cw1U/видео.html After all, we don't all have access to an auto electrician ; ) I hope this clarifies your question. Best wishes, Geoff
John Wood. ..yup, I think I will use the piggyback fuse holder which is another name of what you mentioned...N then I will cut off that crimping click part and do a proper soldering on wirings..that will be an absolutely perfect Job
+Dan Oxlade Hi Dan. To be honest I can't remember. However a quick internet search might help. Try this... www.amazon.co.uk/DURAGADGET-Replacement-Transcend-DrivePro-TS16GDP200/dp/B00K891CBE Hope this helps. Best wishes, Geoff
Hi Laurent. I'm not sure I'm with you... The positive supply was spliced from the wife under the dash - blue if I remember correctly. This then goes to a fuse and to and extension "socket". The cigarette lighter fitting of the dashcam gets permanently plugged into that socket until the day I decide to remove it. The socket itself gets its power via the ignition... so ignition comes on, socket comes on, dashcam comes on. Hope this clarifies things for you. Any questions, please don't hesitate to drop me a line.
That doesn't explain where this outlet is connected. I have a similar one connected to the fuse box, but with two white/blue wires. I'm not sure I will use it because there's not enough slack for a splice.
I already used one in another car. But in the LC they are mini fuses, and I wanted to find another solution to avoid ordering a new one (chineese deliveries take a loooooong time)
Try eBay. There's dozens. I always specify Item Location (left hand column) to avoid delays. You pay a little more, but they're still cheap enough. Here's what I found for a UK search : ) www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=piggyback%20fuse%20holder&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684
Great video. Thanks, Geoff!
Many thanks!
duude!! this is like Kusgesarg but focused on electrical elementalism I love it
Glad to help: )
Why not use a Scotchlok / snaplock?
Might want to be careful with the door pillars, some cars have air bags that are in the pillars. If so if it ever deploys you will run the risk of have that cable inserted in you quite roughly. If you have air bags in the door pillars you may want to remove the pillar covering and run the cable behind the airbags kept free of the obstruction.
+mindblah
Good, sensible advice. Thanks ; )
Any advantage to splicing a wire instead of using a piggyback fuse and making the new connection directly on the fuse box?
This video showed Jay from BlackICE doing his auto-electric thing. He's done so many he could probably do it in his sleep : )
Because Jay is a competent auto electrician, he knows which wires he can and can't splice. Without this knowledge, it's best to be a little more cautious.
Personally I'd always prefer to see a dedicated line installed, especially if you're adding a high-power item like an Amp. But for low power items like DashCams, Piggys work just fine.
Hope this helps.
It's all well and good when your fuse box is in the car. Running the wire to the fuse board in the engine area is another mission
You're absolutely right. That's a challenge anytime.
The only advice I can offer is follow the cables - at some point they'll pass through the firewall and into the cabin, behind the dash. But even then it's not always easy to follow.
Hope this helps.
I plan to use the fuse tap on a existing cigarette lighter 15amp fuse socket..Can I run use a 15amp fuse in the fuse tap?
Theoretically yes, BUT I wouldn't advise it. That's a lot of power. Anything 10 or over should be a dedicated line in my mind. Small things like dashcams only use around 3 Amps typically, so they're normally quite safe to tap. But if your needs are more heavy duty, play safe and run a separate line.
@@vogman thank you. But the idea is to use the fuse tap to connect another 12v socket to which I will plugin the dashcam power adapter. I understand that 15amp fuse is a on higher side for the daahcam, but I choose to use that because I currently have no lower rated fuse...
If you're doing the same as I did and adding a hidden socket to plug a dashcam into, then you should be fine, but don't leave the socket on display for general use. If a device is plugged in to the original socket AND you new socket at the same time, this COULD potentially overload the wiring. So only use this extension socket for the dashcam or similarly low current items. And get yourself a 5 amp fuse : )
@@vogman My car has a 15A fuse (installed) for heated seats, but my trim model doesn't have heated seats. Do you think the factory just put a fuse in there regardless? Anyhow, I would like to hook up my dash cam using a piggy back fuse holder. Can I just use this 15A circuit to do so? Keeping the 15A fuse in the lower slot. It will be dedicated just to the dash cam. The dash cam I am using measures at 2A. Please let me know!
Nice video but on which fuse to connect it?
Hi Soheb. Thanks for the kind comments.
It's very hard for me to say which fuse as I'm not there with you and as every case is different.
Ideally you're looking for a fuse that's not used much. For example, a cigarette lighter socket... unless you have items already plugged into this, there's probably no current being drawn. So that's a good fuse to tap.
As long as you're not putting too much load on a circuit as a general rule pick a lower fuse size. I can't guarantee anything as all makes and models are different, be generally the average auto wire can handle 20 Amps or so. So if you select a 10 Amp fuse and add a 5 Amp tap, that's 15 Amps drawing through a 20 Amp wire... you've got 5 Amps to spare.
Whatever you do, just keep a close eye on it for a few weeks - just in case.
Hope this helps.
Geoff
so you mention that there's already a fuse in the adapter, does this mean that the inline fuse for the socket (assuming that i have no intention of ever using it for anything else) is unnecessary?
The "socket" is just like an electric outlet in your home - its purpose is to power any non-specific device that can plug into it. Ideally, just like in your home, it should be fused to protect the wires that supply power to it from overheating / melting (see my OVERLOAD video). Adaptors like the one shown typically contain fuses rated for the devices they are connected to. In theory, just like in your home, the fuse to the socket would be larger than the fuse in the device adaptor.
In my video Jay (who is an auto electrician) spliced into existing wiring to power the socket. He knows his business and it's not for me to second guess him in his choice of wire, but you'll note that he did include an inline fuse to the socket as well (approx 7 mins in). This way he can be sure that the socket he has fitted is independently fused and is unlikely to overload the wiring loom that he's spliced into. And that's the point right there... he didn't want the socket potentially overloading the existing loom, and that's why it's fused.
I hope this helps : )
Hi, I have the same dash cam. Am thinking about hardwiring it, but was wondering what amp fuse to use inline, can you make a suggestion? Thanks
Hi Munzoor. There's generally a fuse built into the cigarette-lighter-adaptor, usually 5 Amps I think. Taking these adaptors apart is easy - just unscrew the silver ring. That will expose the fuse and you can check for yourself.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Nice video - why not simplify things and use a fuse tap?
+John Wood
Hi John, thanks for your comments and question.
In truth I didn't fit the dashcam (well, I didn't wire it in). I had a friend, an auto electrician do the job, and I hope I make that clear on the video. I have done other things in the past and I have used Piggyback Fuse holder, which is which I mention it in this video and why I specifically made this video - ruclips.net/video/8omZ545Cw1U/видео.html
After all, we don't all have access to an auto electrician ; )
I hope this clarifies your question.
Best wishes,
Geoff
John Wood. ..yup, I think I will use the piggyback fuse holder which is another name of what you mentioned...N then I will cut off that crimping click part and do a proper soldering on wirings..that will be an absolutely perfect Job
Hi, is the Transcend 200 a mini or micro USB adapter?
+Dan Oxlade
Hi Dan. To be honest I can't remember. However a quick internet search might help. Try this...
www.amazon.co.uk/DURAGADGET-Replacement-Transcend-DrivePro-TS16GDP200/dp/B00K891CBE
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Where does that plus come from ? You're not shown unpluging it !
Hi Laurent. I'm not sure I'm with you...
The positive supply was spliced from the wife under the dash - blue if I remember correctly. This then goes to a fuse and to and extension "socket". The cigarette lighter fitting of the dashcam gets permanently plugged into that socket until the day I decide to remove it. The socket itself gets its power via the ignition... so ignition comes on, socket comes on, dashcam comes on.
Hope this clarifies things for you.
Any questions, please don't hesitate to drop me a line.
That doesn't explain where this outlet is connected. I have a similar one connected to the fuse box, but with two white/blue wires. I'm not sure I will use it because there's not enough slack for a splice.
Have you considered using a Piggyback Fuse Holder? I discuss these and how to use them in this video... ruclips.net/video/8omZ545Cw1U/видео.html
I already used one in another car. But in the LC they are mini fuses, and I wanted to find another solution to avoid ordering a new one (chineese deliveries take a loooooong time)
Try eBay. There's dozens. I always specify Item Location (left hand column) to avoid delays. You pay a little more, but they're still cheap enough. Here's what I found for a UK search : )
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=piggyback%20fuse%20holder&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684