Spark Plug Basics
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- Опубликовано: 6 дек 2020
- Should you put anti seize on the threads of spark plugs? Should you remove spark plugs from a hot or cold engine? Should you torque spark plugs? Should you gap spark plugs? I cover these questions and more in this video.
I realize that not everyone will agree with my statements in this video, and I’m just fine with that. I felt it was important that I put this information out there for those that were interested. I hope you find this information useful.
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Links
Antisieze on plugs: ngksparkplugs.com/en/resource...
Spark Plug Torque: ngksparkplugs.com/en/resource...
Gapping and Indexing Spark Plugs: ngksparkplugs.com/en/resource...
Hot or Cold Engine Removal?: auto.howstuffworks.com/under-...
More Spark Plug Info: ngksparkplugs.com/en/resource...
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Anti-Seize is the glitter of the car repair world. It gets everywhere. You will never get rid of it.
Also whatever year that trend came from probably didn't have plated spark plug threads or aluminum heads.
Tighten them to spec and do not try to remove them when the engine is hot. If by some crazy chance it does freeze you are better off using penetrating oil (if and when, not just in case).
Not to mention it is likely to foul your spark plugs and cause some interesting missfire/preignition/knocķ
A little goes a long way. Problem is people use a lot.
@@Oblithian so a high resistance connection from antiseize will cause det? explain
It is a menace! Glitter, that is.
@@Oblithian maybe you're just a derp?
I've anti-seized, I've not anti-seized... I've had no issues either way. For inserting new plugs, I just put the plug in a spark plug socket on an extension and place them in that way.
I tighten my spark plugs until the head strips, then I JB weld them in place.
"Tighten it till it gets loose, back it off a quarter turn and leave it for the intern"
Nice one! Thanks for the laugh XD
Lmao
what are spark plugs?
-Tesla owners
lmao thanks for the laugh
I changed plugs in my Ford 5.4 2v once, torqued them to spec, and over the following few months, had three work loose and blow out of the hole. No thread damage to the head, but broke the COP retainer off so they needed to be replaced. Got the regular ratchet, tightened them all down to what my ‘arm torque wrench’ said was good, and had no issues after that. That sound when the plug blows out and launches against the hood though, WOW!
🤣🤣🤣 wtffff
I like to change plugs on a cold engine as I am adverse to getting 🔥
Yes, warm engines find ways of reaching out and grabbing ya!
🥵🤬😡😫😅
I began playing with engines at age 11 in 1969. Never torqued a plug or put anything on them Always gapped them and the gaps were .025 (small engines)-.045 (most GMs of the time). Also used brand specific: AC Delco in GM, Champion in Dodge and Autolite/Motorcraft in Ford. When GM went to HEI and the gap was .060, it was fairly easy to see and still I checked them. Never used NGK, ND or others designed for Foriegn cars. My 2000 LeSabre 3800 absolutely forbids Iridium plugs. My 50 year career spanned parts, wholesale, retail and distribution in addition to being a Counterman for 10 years with paper books.
The only time I ever cross threaded a spark plug was when I used a small length of vacuum hose to thread it in. There is always a natural bend in vacuum hose, because of the rolls it is sold in. So, if you use the hose, your appreciation that the plug is not square is reduced. Ever since then I use something rigid to give me the best feedback regarding the angle. My tip is to never use vacuum hose to thread the plug, ha ha ha!
Eric, I have been watching ETCG1 for a long time and I am always impressed that you have a different picture of a cake for ever new video, but todays cake is by fair my favorite digital cake.
To avoid damaging the plug, one can use a ramp-type gapper to measure the gap by "touch" and avoid the force-thru of feeler gauge.
Magnetic spark plug socket is your best friend. It makes removal and inserting so much easier. The old rubber ones they are fine when new. As they ages, they can be a problem in itself.
Speaking of Spark Plugs.
Been researching how to test plugs. Be nice to have consensus on acceptable 20K test values for Resistor plugs and non-resistor plugs? Best to test hot or cold?
Cold 20K test results for new:
Non-resistor BS 491055T plug = 4.88.
Continuity - no.
External ground - no.
Non-resistor BS 694385 plug = 8.01
Continuity -no.
External ground -no.
Resistor OILE K6RTC plugs (3 tested) = 0.0.
Continuity - yes.
External ground -no.
Comments, test values welcome.
ETCG - You are responsible for about 90% of my DIY auto repairs/maintenance.
Always looking forward to your videos.
Thanks for your time.
Mike
This is a surprisingly controversial topic... nearly as controversial as "what motor oil should I use?"
Gapping: I gap all my plugs, but I use the next smallest feeler gauge and shoot for a loose gap. This does two things... it helps to preserve any coating on the electrodes by reducing the pressure of the feeler pass, and it gives an appropriate gap, if slightly small. (Gaps typically increase over the lifespan of a spark plug so a tiny bit small is OK.) And if a gap must be adjusted, I touch and bend only the ground strap electrode.
Lubrication: I use a *tiny bit* of anti-seize on plugs for aluminum heads. It is *very important* to keep anti-seize compound away from the electrodes, this is so important that I do not apply it to the first 2-3 threads of the plug. For iron heads, I use a single drop of motor oil.
Torque: of course. Unless the plug is in a ridiculously difficult place to apply a torque wrench, then I will approximate with elbow torque. I also reduce spark plug torque by approx 10% because anti-seize (and of course motor oil) will lubricate the threads and increase the applied torque.
Hot or cold: definitely cold (unless it cannot be avoided, which should be exceedingly rare).
Multi-electrode / gimmick plugs: no thanks. If significant power increase or emissions reductions were possible through a different plug design, manufacturers would jump all over this. If your engine, fuel and/or ignition systems have been modified, different plugs may benefit your application. But in a factory stock engine, just use what the manufacturer specifies (or equivalent).
Never had an issue using these practices. Thanks for another good video!
Now THAT'S an epic cake!!
That's something I've always done, passed down from dad, who got it from grandpa. My grandpa probably ran into a really seized one on a Model T head, and used anti-seize from that day forward. Surprisingly, my '07 (GMT-900) Silverado 1500 had anti-seize on the threads of the OE plugs - that was a shocker for me, since GM seems to pull out all the punches for saving a penny on any and every component. Coincidentally, the OE AC Delco "100k mile" plugs I removed were identical in every way to the NGK Iridium plugs I replaced those with 6 years ago.
Im a no on anti seize. I prefer a cold engine. Im also a FIRM believer you stick with what came in the vehicle. AC Delco for GM, Champion, for Dodge/Chrysler, Motorcraft for ford. I worked for Dodge for 1 year, and i had many people come in and complain the motor didnt run right since other garage did tune up. Well, it had Bosch plugs, i put Champions in and problem solved.
I have a 1990 Oldsmobile 88. Royale. It so easy to change the spark plugs on it with the 3.8 liter. I tried to start on removing them but the wire did not want to come off. So I went to buy wires just in case I broke one taking it off. After that is done I have to change the oil again. It has been just a hair above 3,000 miles. It has 73,000 actual miles. It is a good clean reliable car. I believe that if you take care of the car it will take care of you. Thumb up...
16 yrs experience, and what I do is, no anti seize on threads, or oil, I check the gap with the tool but only lightly or directly next to the gap and eyeball it and I just make sure they're all the same like you said. I've done both cold and hot engines without problems but I'd prefer cold engine, just feels better. Always go with oem plugs, if cant o go ngk or denso also of course. And same, never torqued a plug in my life, I do the same like you described depending on gasket or taper fit, never had an issue. Oh also I like to put a dab of dielectric grease on the plug end. Last thing is, you gotta watch out for cracks in the porcelain, easily missed and it does happen once in a while from the factory, same with loose ends, sometimes they're be backed off a couple threads. Thanks
I have always used ani-seiz with aluminum heads but knowing your background I trust you & wont from now on. I haven't gapped plugs in a long time unless it's obviously off. 30+ years ago I didn't trust pre-gapped plugs so I would check them but after awhile I learned it's rare to find a problem. I Never Ever drop a plug in the hole. If it falls I pull it back out & inspect it. In the old day you could tighten the gap by doing nothing more than tapping the plug on a hard surface. Thanks for the refresher.
Some plugs come with it pre-applied. NGK uses a crush washer that yields when the proper torque is reached.
Very nice to hear you talk about indexing plugs.
Great video. I love MCM but one of the things that has always bugged me is seeing them put anti seize on their NGK plugs. I never do mostly for fear of over tightening and screwing up the threads on an aluminum head. I also don't bother torquing anymore since the torque specs is usually pretty low, like 14 ft/lbs. Never had a problem with just bottoming then out with a ratchet and then a little extra. Even on boosted VW/Audis.
Honda tech here that's put a dab of Moly cote on plug threads for 20 years; I reiterate, I'm a Honda tech working on Hondas, and I've had zero issues.
I've also substituted with Honda Urea grease--zero issues
Change spark plugs on a cold engine only, especially if you have an engine with aluminum heads ( which is most of the engines out there today).
If you’re tuning then you’ll have to check them hot.
The only exception is those crazy fords.
For spark plugs I buy them from a large local parts store chain to avoid counterfeit plugs.
Pick whatever electrode material you want. I like copper because it's cheap.
For install, just lower them in with a spark plug socket and extension and tighten them by hand. Grab the ratchet by the head (Not the Handle!) when tightening to avoid stripping out the head.
I don't mess with anti-sieze on anything but exhaust studs.
I hired a mobile mechanic to remove the rubber insulating boots. After a lot of elbow grease, cursing, and ingenuity, he got them off the plug.
So, then he proceeded to remove my old plugs and install the new spark plugs.
We had a back and forth on the use of anti seize. He wanted to use it and I did not and also never have used or had any problems.
I've had my Challenger for three years now, and I'm super unenthusiastic for when the time comes I get to blow $150 - $200 on 16 plugs.
LMAO, My dad found out the hard way when he went to get plugs for his 5.7, " IT TAKES HOW MANY PLUGS ". " IT'S GOING TO COST HOW MUCH ".
Same for my 06 E500. 5.0 V8 with 16 plugs. The V12 Mercs have 24 plugs LOL.
Spent 120 dollars on 6 plugs worth it though
It cost close to $50 just for 4 Denso iridium plugs for my Toyota I could have got NGK for $10 less when I took the plugs out it had NGK dual electrode plugs in it now with the single electrode it seems to be getting poorer gas mileage.
i remember doing that on my ram. wasnt cheap
Great Tips. I have used the vacuum hose method for installing plugs many, many times.
Great job, I like the fact that you show us, as well as explain👍👍👍
In Brazil we have E100 (Hydrous Ethanol) on our Flex vehicles. Toyota dealers suggest removing spark plugs each 10k km avoiding it to corrode locked in the engine head. The spark plug life expectancy is half the gas engines in that case.
Was just thinking about changing the spark plugs on my 2000 civic and hey presto Eric uploads a video on the subject:)
Good information.. I have never used anti seize nor have I ever torqued a plug. A good addition to this would be how to properly read a spark plug and what to look for in regards to timing
One thing that I haven't heard from my own experience is. When people playing around in the machine shop machining cylinder heads ect. No one on here hasn't talked about the vapour barrier, I call it the washing machine affect. You have to change your heat range to a colder plug. In a engine reconditioning side it's a safety thing. From been a automotive technician I've never used anti size at all but it's better to read the instructions below to verify it. But the one thing I have learnt is getting the right information Frist. The Technology now days is getting up there. If a plug plays up then a fault code could possibly come up. Because you have done something Wong instilling it. So plugs are very important to engine optimization. The biggest bang for complete cylinder combustion. That's very important for all cylinder pressures are the same
when you talked about iridium plugs and said do the math, i immediately think about my ram 5.7 hemi with 16 plugs. ouch...!!
Same here . . . . O_o
Absolutely! Our 1985 Honda Accord Hatchback with the 1.8L carbureted engine, 5 spd m/t . I put Champion sparkplugs one time and it ran rough, misfiring. I immediately replaced the plus with NGK and it ran smooth even though the Champion plugs were spec'd for our car. My girlfriend and I loved that car until it was totaled in an accident.
Thanks Eric for some good information.😀
Nice plugs such as Denso and NGK come with a anti crossive coating on the the thread as well.
Well done. Thanks for the video.
Great video Eric!! Good advice. I have always gapped my plugs was taught in 71 to always check gap but I never used the fancy ones either. Have never used anti seize either. But my neighbor used it on my finish mower blade bolts cause they was so hard to remove about years later had to replace all 3 bolts I know the anti seize caused it I don't use it. Have never torqued plugs either. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun enjoy
I have done the same as you with spark plugs, never had an issue. 👍👍👍
I do cold engine plug changes, I haven't checked gap in years only because I found out quality plugs are preset and yes you can damage the materials on the electrodes so I just do a visual check. I will have to try the oil on the threads I have always done dry changes and do get binding on the way in so i will give it a try. I have also never torqued a spark plug I have alway tightened to snug and quarter to half turn past and never seamed to run into problems.
Just an interesting observation. I had a 1994 Geo Metro with the small 1 liter 3 cylinder. I replace the spark plugs at about 200000 miles with Bosch platinum four plugs. I don't think much of the cost because there were only 3 plugs. I honestly wasn't expecting that much. The difference was amazing . And the car got even get better cast mileage. I was stunned that it could make this much of a difference in performance, the way the car sounded and the gas mileage increase on a car that already got fantastic gas mileage. I put 268K on the car when I drove it to the junkyard. The ball joints were $150 a piece. The car was not worth $300.00 then.
Agree and I always have changed them on a cold engine. Gapping? Pays to be cautious. Thanks.
Love the airline-like demo!
I was thinking the same! Like when they show you the seatbelt.
The Subjective Universe of spark plugs, where I keep my opinions to myself. 😆
I agree with everything you said, the only exception is a 3 valve Ford. Eric o at sma has a great video on how to remove them as hot as absolutely possible, even stopping halfway through to heat the engine back up. Lol great video Eric, keep up the good work.
I used to torque my spark plugs, until I got careless and well, let's say I use helicoil now.
Great job Brother
I tried torqueing plugs once; never again. Pulled the threads out. It was an old engine and possibly had thread damage anyway. Hindsight and whatnot.
I rarely check gaps either. I appreciate the tip about putting them end-to-end to see if they match.
Eric, you and I share the same exact thoughts on this. I've never used antiseize on any plug, no matter if it was a cast iron head or aluminum, and I've never had an issue. I've also never torqued spark plugs to a spec, literally just gone by feel, you can feel the seal crush and bottom out. And the only plugs I've ever gapped were cheap ones for an ATV.
Great video Eric! Very accurate advise on this video. I am just a home mechanic and recently changed the spark plugs on an Accord 2.4 litre. I did use anti-seize on on the new plugs (just very light coat around the thread) because of the long interval of spark plug replacement on this engine. I highly doubt that I will be keeping the car for another 160,000 kms but at least whoever the new owner (prob a student or first time owner of a vehicle) will make their job little easier without any surprises. I don’t know if anti-seize will corrode over a long period of time. Also, I felt the same way as this video about removing spark plugs on cold engine mainly don’t want to work hot aluminum engine plus aluminum is soft metal so there is higher chance of stripping thread? Maybe I don’t know.
I change my spark plugs after 5 mins of running the engine. I have used motor craft spark plugs on my Ford Fusion. To put the plugs in I use the spark plug tool and hand tight it in. With the ratchet I give it a slight turn. Over a 100k on the plugs no issues. As far as anti seize. I do use a little of it on the plugs plus dielectric grease with the coils.
Thanks for the good info as always! FYI, you should check out the spark plug video by Project Farm! It’s interesting and very cool!
Thanks Eric
Been turning a wrench on/off professionally for over 30 years. I've always put a very VERY light coating of anti-sneeze on the threads. Never had an issue or problem at all. I think the warnings are for those dingdongs that just about dip the plug INTO a can of anti-sneeze and then install it. Of course if you get any on the electrode end it will cause problems with conductivity. The whole trick is not to go nuts with it. Of course that's just how I do things, and your mileage will vary.
Love the videos eric
Good video Eric. I do plugs like you.
I agree with you Eric. I’m only newly into automotive on the professional spectrum but I don’t torque them, no anti seize and I don’t always gap them, although most of the time I do just to be safe. Reminds me of when I did spark plugs on my Cadillac. Northstar, yeah jokes in replies please. Easy access on the front bank or left bank. So I had a misfire and was aggravated so I went and replaced my wire for free thinking it was the wire. While installing the new one, I noticed it didn’t fit tight to the valve cover like the rest so I’m pushing onto it trying to make it seat. I remove it thinking the leaf in the spark plug hole is causing the problem, using a flathead I try to get that leaf or crud out, in the process I tapped the spark plug with the screw driver. Come to find out the spark plug wasn’t completely tightened, actually pretty loose 🤣 problem fixed.
I've been doing the maintenance on my vehicles for a few years now and i haven't had any problems related to spark plug installation. There isn't much that can go wrong just don't overtightened and everything will be alright. ( i don't own any Fords but I've heard some are a nightmare when it comes to spark plugs)
I agree 💯 percent. I've never gaped or torqued a plug in my life. Also, engines are almost always so much easier to work on when they're cold.
I have never put anti seize on my aluminum block plugs, but I am thinking I might for my iron block 60's Chev 350. Its last set were done by a garage who said it was a Bi%$h to get them out as my headers are in the way. That was a few years back and I think they used anti-seize then. I guess I'll be finding out in the next couple months when I do them. Car is in winter rest mode (off the road) so its not a rush job ;)
Eric can you do more on diesel engines please, Iam sure theirs plenty of folk like me that know only the very basics of diesel, and its pros and cons when maintenance needs to be done. All the best mate, keep your vids coming( I need em!). Ta.
I've been changing my own spark plugs for 20+ years. I've always used anti-seize. I don't make a mess with it, just enough for a light coating. I've never had a plug seize, but I have helped friends put in heli coils after they removed their plugs along with the threads from aluminum heads. I'm comfortable using anti-seize and I'll keep using it.
Newer cars nowadays dont need them though so I would be careful
Except for those darned Ford Triton style 5.8/4.6 modular 3v engines with their entirely stupid 2 piece plugs (and yes, I'm aware of the one pieces, and I've heard plenty of reasons to not use them) in agreeance with just about everything you said about these things.
But those Ford ones... yeah. Nickel anti-seize lightly applied to the shield that sticks out past the threads into the engine/head is an absolute *requirement*. You don't do that (after you've extracted the first ones, that is) and you are going to have a bad time. They make a special tool kit just to get these things out. I have said kit. Mostly works a treat. Only used it once. But once was enough.
And yes, those particular engines have their issues beyond the spark plugs. I have one (4.6L 3v) and I'm doin' my best to keep the issues at bay. 160K+ so far, maybe I'm doin' alright. (aaand I've jinxed it...)
I agree with you Eric
My thought process: Look up the torque specification on your vehicle's spark plugs. Next, find out if that specification was made with - or without - any kind of lubricant (anti-seize, oil, etc.) Any kind of lubricant will alter how much force you need to achieve a desired torque specification. If you find out the specification was derived without using any lubricants - then you know 100% for sure that the engineers who designed the engine didn't (or did) intend for any lubricants to be used. Every engine I've ever owned and serviced (I only service my own vehicles) had an aluminum cylinder head. Consequently, I've always followed the torque spec for anything I tightened into it. My own personal preference, of course.
I think that the engine oil on the threads works great. Easy to thread down to snug when lubricated. Also easier to break loose to change the plugs later on. I always see a little oil left on the threads when I take them out. The only time I ever broke a plug was when I had torqued it down. I manually tighten with a ratchet and my calibrated fingers. Gotta gap the old style plugs like the Champion RC12YC, but I don't mess with the platinums either. Personally not paying for iridium since the platinums go for years and years.
Remove cold unless it’s a Ford 5.4 3 valve. Then remove hot with an impact. Most of the time they don’t break and need extracting.
and 4.6 3v and 6.8 3v dumb ass two piece design
I began using a torque wrench on plugs when they started making heads out of recycled aluminum foil. It is the best way to make sure the plug is tight - but not too tight.
The denso TT spark plugs are awesome.
My Experience on my 04 ford f-150 Spark plug change..."Horrible plugs"...I crack the plug, Fill the hole with CARB cleaner, Cover with plastic wrap for 24 hours, then remove plug...I had no breaks. Also there are 2 plug part numbers that will fit both engines.Make sure to get the correct one...One is for the 5.4 3v and the other is for the 4.6 3v.
Some vehicles (the Prius comes to mind) have indexed spark plugs from the factory, I believe labelled with the letters A-F after the part number. Be darn sure to whip out your torque wrench on these bad boys!
As for "weird" spark plugs (multi-electrode, et al), I've sampled quite a few of them. Some do more than others. The Bosch +4 and the E3 Diamond-Fire plugs are pleasing to the butt-dyno on every vehicle I've run them in, and consistently gave me a measurable increase in MPGs. ...At the expense of a very unique rough and noisy idle. Flame-front propogation plays a huge role in engine smoothness at low RPMs. I also had consistent longevity issues with every multi-electrode spark plug I've used.
Hi Eric - agree with you on all points. I don't think its used any more, but also some automotive brands (very few these days) require spark plugs without resistor in them.... just a small point
Thank you
Make sure you tighten the spark plugs when changing them tight enough. I've had one come undone (2 others started to on a 4 cyl) and actually fly out the head. Made a * PLOP * noise when it hit the inside of the hood and then a horrid chugging noise. Scared me slightly when driving it (I was about 2 minutes from home) and thought I'd thrown a rod. Look under hood to see the plug still attached to the lead hanging over the exhaust manifold heat shield. LOL
mostly why you should replace spark plugs on cold engine is
One-safety (so you don't burn yourself)
two-on a cold engine its easier to remove the plug
three-if you use a torque wrench on hot engine (head) maybe because of that aluminum expansion you can overtight the plug
because when its cold it will kind of shrink idk i do them on cold engine i dont wanna experiment :D
So yea nice video Eric
I never use anti seize on plugs either. Idiots that don't know what they're doing will over tighten the plugs and that's why they claim you need anti seize lol. Very concise video! Also I wish you would've mentioned side gapping! 8]
Eric I just did spark plugs for the first time and I’m glad i did everything per this video. No anti seize, didn’t check gaps on my irradium plugs, and half turn past finger tight. Wish this video came out sooner but glad I got confirmation from the car guy. Enjoy the videos. thanks.
As a DIYer I used anti seize the first time, too much of it though 😆 and it created a mess. It also threw off the quarter turn technique for one spark plug. No anti seize for me anymore and I always torque them.
At first I wasn't going to watch your vid EtCG, but decided to see if I needed a refresher, which I didn't, yey! 😄
But, I always thought anti-seize had a stink about it... My 1990 Pontiac Sunbird has an iron or steel block and an aluminum head and I've never used anti-seize on it since I bought it (in 1993).
But in 2002, when I bought my '02 Subaru WRX, I began hearing about this "need" to use anti-seize on the spark plugs. Out of an abundance of caution (and ignorance of the new "automotive conventions"), I began to do so just in case. I always wondered if it was a gimmick designed to separate me from my wallet's contents or not... Now I know, thanks!
My question for you then is:
What about dielectric grease, especially in use on the car's batteries? From everything I've heard it's practically vaseline with baking soda in it (if I remember correctly) and what value does it bring to an automotive mechanic?
One thing I always do is to put dielectric grease inside the plug boot. In my opinion and experience it helps to keep the boot from sticking to the plug and breaking when it's removed. I also use anti-seize with any cast iron heads.
If a (car)manufacturer mentions torque specs, there must be a good reason...
Just my 2 cents.
Back in the day when I had my 1967 charger with a 383 I used to take the plugs out clean and regap them at least twice a year I would run out until the electrode was almost burned off.
I work like you eric😇 and never had a problem
Eric, at Autozone they sell a tool that’s a spark plug socket and extension all in one. On top of that, the socket is magnetic. Really nice b/c you don’t have to “drop” or insert the spark plug with your hand, thus you avoid bending the plug tip
Also, my ignition coils were sticking and to help me I removed them from a hot engine and waited hours for it to cool down before I removed the spark plugs. Something to try if anyone has sticking coils.
When most heads were cast iron there was a lot more room for error in sparkplug torq. My first experience with aluminum was outboard boat engines and encountered many where the owner had changed the plug and stripped the threads of the aluminum heads particularly where the threaded part was short. There have been problems with aluminum heads and over tightening sparkplugs. The aluminum threads are easier to strip and the aluminum expands more than cast iron when heated. I recall being shocked when I saw torq specs for sparkplugs in aluminum being so low but after seeing numerous problems I use a torq wrench for aluminum heads and feel better about it and a cold engine. I have never experienced a problem with aluminum when properly torqued. Many mechanics have learned the hard way about over tightening in the aluminum heads for some major brand truck engines, probably too embarassed to talk about it. Some have been blown out of the engine after being over tightened and the head getting hot.
Hey, Eric!
I started putting a tiny bit of anti-seize on the the threads of spark plugs when I pulled my mom's plugs out of her tahoe and I think 3 or 4 broke in half as I pulled them out. I was able to get them out but totally had that "Oh, Sh......" moment. For my own Grand Cherokee, I swapped to the E3 plugs a couple months ago and I didn't really notice any power increase, but it definitely feels a bit smoother to me. Just my two cents.
Eric, could you speak about heat range and spark plugs?
I've always used anti-seize but in very small amount. When installing and removing plugs, I used a pocket telescoping magnet. Most of the time I didn't check gap. I would look at it to see if it needed gapped. I did like working on a cool/cold engine simply because I don't like getting burned.
I didn’t know Santa 🎅 works on cars!!! Love the vids Eric!!
Just finished watching your spark plug video. EEK!! I've been accidentally doing it the same as you. Keep up the good work Eric. I really look forward to your newsletters. Been a fan for a long time. Best wishes for continued success.
Thank you Eric I always enjoy watching your videos I have a question at what mileage do you change spark plugs I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa. Follow the manufacturers service manual for spark plug interval.
All i do for a stock not going to modify car. I just put them in and tighten about a 1/2 turn past snug. For a vehicle like my dakota that has a bigger cam, higher compression, runs higher than stock rpm, and has 2 step. I check the gap on that but seams like stock gap works pretty well.
I always put a tiny bit of copper paste on the threads of new spark plugs. It doesent hurt them, they go in smoother, doesent make a mess (For me at least) and they come out nicer after they've been in there for a while.
I like how that camera focusing sounds like a ratchet. Also... great information as usual.
I pretty much handle them the same way. I do however gap my plugs, since I'm running about 18psi more boost than stock I dropped my gap from .032 to .028. Even on other vehicles I tend to close the gap a couple thousandths.
NGK says put plugs in dry, I believe. I use just a wisp of antiseize or a drop of oil. I almost always use a torque wrench. I always use mfg recommend plugs! One more thing, especially for older vehicles that have been wrenched on by many: engine head plug threads may be bougered up or have left over antiseize or who knows what. I light spray of WD40 to clean the threads can make a big difference. Flame suit on...
I use anti-seize to make them go in easier, but motor oil would work just as well. When I'm installing them I always place the plug inside the spark plug socket with and extension and thread them in a few turns first. If you're worried about getting them out, a length of pipe is a lot cheaper than a bottle of anti-seize.
Great vid Eric, also you might want to cover resistance of the center electrode. I just changed a set on a 3.0 ford and the new ones ranged from 4k to 13k when specs say 5-6k, can we say quality control 🤨
It's not a "film" of precious metal but a small puck or disk of material that is welded to the the primary electrode. Also gap can and does make a difference, but you don't shove the gauge in and out on those type of plugs but use the tool on the ground strap only. It's easy and causes no damage to the plug.
Anti-seize - yes (very small amt. to prevent welding to the head) especially on alum. (electrolysis). No motor oil as that turns to carbon and plugs up the threads. I believe one of the main reasons for a torque setting is the number of DIY's tighten to the degree that they are trying to hold the whole car together with ALL the bolts and nuts on the car. You can hear the squeaking or creaking as they are tightened. What about using silicone grease on the inside of the plug wire boots? A very good idea applied with a q-tip. When gapping a light touch is what is needed. If it doesn't go in easy do not force it. A plug socket with foam inside is a godsend. A piece of tape works if you don't have that. Always turn backwards until the threads match up. You'll never have a cross thread if you follow that on ALL bolts & nuts!
I'm an old school guy and mostly work on old school engines. With those old iron electrodes, I always gap and I use a wire feeler gauge set. I've found most of those gap wheels that they sell on the display next to the register next to worthless.
I only use anti-seize on engines that have demonstrated an issue like Eric said, but I almost always use a little dielectric grease on the tip. Sometimes, especially with small block Chevy's, the plug wire can bake onto the plug. This just helps getting the plug wire off without destroying it.
I usually use a drop of 3in1 oil on the threads. Just to give it a lil something.