I am the owner of a 2018 RAV4 so I definitely appreciate a mechanic with your skills to guide us with our maintenance issues. Thank you for taking the time to make all these videos. Well appreciated.
I would have to use my inch lb torque wrench my foot lb torque wrench only goes down to 25 ft lbs and that would be 11 ft lbs and i use a short piece of rubber hose to install spark plugs in any engine ,thank you for such a comprehensive explanation of this service, i hope people listen and follow your instructions and they too will be able to install spark plugs properly.
After inserting anything threaded, I like to start by turning it counterclockwise to feel it find the start of the thread, then turn it clockwise. That way you won’t cross-thread it while tightening.
Thanks for the video. My Tacoma is coming up for spark plug change soon and does it also take a 14mm spark plug socket? What is your thoughts on applying a few drops of never seize ti the threads? Thanks.
If it's click type yes. If it's digital, and the transducer that would be measures the torque is in the head, or the wrench doesn't use a ratio of torques to give a reading, the it doesn't matter where you hold it. John also states this, I think.
Just use a high quality electronic torque wrench. I use them on the 4.7 V8 which are 13 ft lbs. This isn’t the space shuttle. Most people don’t even torque plugs.
I noticed you didn't put anything on the threads. In your experience is it important to install the spark plugs dry? I thought you would want to add a bit of anti seize to the threads.
No anti seize on plugs. The threads are lubricated by a coating. I used anti seize a couple of times and it was very hard to get the plugs out. I left then in 120k miles as per the manual. Now I have done them at 120, 240 on two Toyotas with no anti seize after the 120k interval. They came out great at 240k.
I'm having confusion torquing the soft gaskets that use inch-pounds. I've done the valve cover on my 97 Tacoma and transmission filter for a 2014 Scion xB, and same issue. As you go around all the bolts, the torque reading keeps changing back down to below specs. I became worried that if I keep going around and tighten to specs I'll destroy the soft gasket. There must be some proper procedure for this I'm not aware of?
The turn past snug plus a certain number of degrees only applies to new crush washers. If for some reason you need to remove and reinstall a plug use the torque spec. The term crush is a bit of a misnomer as the washer isn't totally crushed. This allows it to act as a spring seal and lock washer for the differing temperatures and metal expansion rares of the steel plug and aluminum head.
Good to hear you must change your oil before the recommended/specified intervals. In my opinion going 6000 miles between oil changes is very destructive pretty small working engines. I try to not go more than 3,000 miles and I've been wrenching for 50+ years ..and I think there's a big difference putting in an extra 1-2000 miles additional contaminated oil. Of course nowdays unreputable car manufacturers have engines w bad Blow- by right out of the factory. I wish the mechanic would talk about the history of being various engines that, even new areoil burner /Bad blow by problems
@@Idahomie I change my oil every 10k miles with synthetic and OeM oil filter which is about every 3-4 months for me. I pulled oil analysis at 10k and it looked so good they told me I could extend if I wanted, but I chose to stay at 10k.
I do 14 foot lbs on my taco. Just installed NGK Ruthenium plugs and Denso coils. I spent a little more money but now it runs incredibly smooth with absolutely no electrical noise heard through my HF radio. Now, the only electrical noise I hear is when someone in a Honda, Dodge or Chevy goes by.
coils already? what year of Taco!? i have 339k miles on Gen1 5VZ and coils are still the factory ones from 26.5 years ago ... they are over 100$ MSRP EACH
I alway blow out the sp plug hole -Before- i unscrew the plug. I also take a small strip of terry cloth rag and wrap it around the tip of some long tweezers. I carefully the conical shaped terry cloth into the spark plug thread area and turn gingerly this cleans a fair amount of carbon out of the threads. That way I make sure there's no debris or other things to goof up the torque. All you mechanics out there you know how one little grain of sand can cause a lot of problems with fine threads. Anyone out there have any experience with using a Crush Washer twice. I like to read my plugs about every 25,000 MI. I've heard that once you unload the Crush Washer that is just a seat properly when reinstalling the spark plugs.. something about the crush play not being able to properly 're- conform' to the conical shape of the spark plug seat. I don't know where that would screw up ability to get a proper torque. After many many spark plug changes I don't think I've noticed a fouling issue after doing this occasional inspection and re-install'. I heard and if you do this you should have a spare set of crush washers frankly i hv never replace the washers alone. Frankly I doubt my local napa carry such a part anymore... with all the modern inventory reductions, Not like the good old days when they had a lot of those small parts...... any opinions?
When using a click type torque wrench, and even with one of very expensive digital ones like Peter is using, many people make the mistake of tightening too fast, so that they exceed the set torque by quite a bit. Some people keep pulling on the wrench after it clicks or beeps. You want to avoid that. Peter is doing it correctly by using slow, even pressure until it beeps. Fortunately, on cars and trucks being in a hurry tightening seldom causes problems. The rather wide torque range they specify proves that. Head bolts are the ones you need to do exactly as the manufacturer specifies. Also the main bearing bolts, and the connecting rod cap bolts. Even in lawnmowers, you want those to be right, so they don't unscrew after a few hours. Not only do you have vibration to consider, but they get hot and cold repeatedly. Torque wrenches make good Christmas presents for DIY folks who don't have any. I bought a cheap set on Amazon. That is good enough, since I'm not working on airliners or rocket engines. After the SpaceX Starship had to be blown up in Texas a few months ago, the FAA told them that some bolts needed to be tightened more, or made larger, to prevent leaks.
I have 1999 Toyota Corolla LE I asked that the parts counter he said NGK with a dual tip I got Denso Platinum tip single electrode witch one is correct?
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I am the owner of a 2018 RAV4 so I definitely appreciate a mechanic with your skills to guide us with our maintenance issues. Thank you for taking the time to make all these videos. Well appreciated.
Rav's are so amazing that you almost never see them in videos. They use Camry engines too so anything you needed you could cross ref
I would have to use my inch lb torque wrench my foot lb torque wrench only goes down to 25 ft lbs and that would be 11 ft lbs and i use a short piece of rubber hose to install spark plugs in any engine ,thank you for such a comprehensive explanation of this service, i hope people listen and follow your instructions and they too will be able to install spark plugs properly.
Thank you Peter, appreciate your attention to detail!
After inserting anything threaded, I like to start by turning it counterclockwise to feel it find the start of the thread, then turn it clockwise. That way you won’t cross-thread it while tightening.
Waiting for this one. Need to replace my spark plugs soon.
Thanks for the video. My Tacoma is coming up for spark plug change soon and does it also take a 14mm spark plug socket? What is your thoughts on applying a few drops of never seize ti the threads? Thanks.
14:02 Make sure to pull the torque wrench from the exact middle of the grip area. That's where it's calibrated from. See tests by John Cadogan.
If it's click type yes. If it's digital, and the transducer that would be measures the torque is in the head, or the wrench doesn't use a ratio of torques to give a reading, the it doesn't matter where you hold it. John also states this, I think.
Just use a high quality electronic torque wrench. I use them on the 4.7 V8 which are 13 ft lbs. This isn’t the space shuttle. Most people don’t even torque plugs.
I noticed you didn't put anything on the threads. In your experience is it important to install the spark plugs dry? I thought you would want to add a bit of anti seize to the threads.
No anti seize on plugs. The threads are lubricated by a coating. I used anti seize a couple of times and it was very hard to get the plugs out. I left then in 120k miles as per the manual. Now I have done them at 120, 240 on two Toyotas with no anti seize after the 120k interval. They came out great at 240k.
Do you want to leave part of the crush washer uncrushed between 90-180 or do you simply go until you hit resistance?
I torque 90 degrees max when i feel the resistance.
I'm having confusion torquing the soft gaskets that use inch-pounds. I've done the valve cover on my 97 Tacoma and transmission filter for a 2014 Scion xB, and same issue. As you go around all the bolts, the torque reading keeps changing back down to below specs. I became worried that if I keep going around and tighten to specs I'll destroy the soft gasket. There must be some proper procedure for this I'm not aware of?
Thanks Peter, I got the first view!
Hey Peter, where are your shop at?
enjoyable
@Toyota Maintenance - Good to see you again!
The turn past snug plus a certain number of degrees only applies to new crush washers. If for some reason you need to remove and reinstall a plug use the torque spec. The term crush is a bit of a misnomer as the washer isn't totally crushed. This allows it to act as a spring seal and lock washer for the differing temperatures and metal expansion rares of the steel plug and aluminum head.
I just did my Rx350 at 150k miles on the original plugs, unbelievable how clean these engines run, they still looked great.
Good to hear you must change your oil before the recommended/specified intervals. In my opinion going 6000 miles between oil changes is very destructive pretty small working engines. I try to not go more than 3,000 miles and I've been wrenching for 50+ years ..and I think there's a big difference putting in an extra 1-2000 miles additional contaminated oil. Of course nowdays unreputable car manufacturers have engines w bad Blow- by right out of the factory. I wish the mechanic would talk about the history of being various engines that, even new areoil burner /Bad blow by problems
@@Idahomie I change my oil every 10k miles with synthetic and OeM oil filter which is about every 3-4 months for me. I pulled oil analysis at 10k and it looked so good they told me I could extend if I wanted, but I chose to stay at 10k.
Be careful of purchasing counterfeit plugs. Got a set from ebay a few months ago. Luckily, I noticed that they were fake, before installing them.
Some fakes are really good too. You can't even tell from the plug or the box. Only from the misfires or melting later down the road
I do 14 foot lbs on my taco. Just installed NGK Ruthenium plugs and Denso coils. I spent a little more money but now it runs incredibly smooth with absolutely no electrical noise heard through my HF radio. Now, the only electrical noise I hear is when someone in a Honda, Dodge or Chevy goes by.
coils already? what year of Taco!? i have 339k miles on Gen1 5VZ and coils are still the factory ones from 26.5 years ago ... they are over 100$ MSRP EACH
2004 with 400k miles and the coils were quite toasty. I should have replaced them a lot sooner. @@efil4kizum
No need to replace coils
@@fluorescentmug8333 The coil springs were broken and the boots were burnt and cracked. Why wouldn't I replace them?
Petr, Thanks for ⚡sparking⚡ our interest in this critical component. 😉😂
I alway blow out the sp plug hole -Before- i unscrew the plug. I also take a small strip of terry cloth rag and wrap it around the tip of some long tweezers. I carefully the conical shaped terry cloth into the spark plug thread area and turn gingerly this cleans a fair amount of carbon out of the threads. That way I make sure there's no debris or other things to goof up the torque. All you mechanics out there you know how one little grain of sand can cause a lot of problems with fine threads. Anyone out there have any experience with using a Crush Washer twice. I like to read my plugs about every 25,000 MI. I've heard that once you unload the Crush Washer that is just a seat properly when reinstalling the spark plugs.. something about the crush play not being able to properly 're- conform' to the conical shape of the spark plug seat. I don't know where that would screw up ability to get a proper torque. After many many spark plug changes I don't think I've noticed a fouling issue after doing this occasional inspection and re-install'. I heard and if you do this you should have a spare set of crush washers frankly i hv never replace the washers alone. Frankly I doubt my local napa carry such a part anymore... with all the modern inventory reductions, Not like the good old days when they had a lot of those small parts...... any opinions?
I used to crack plugs. You Toyota people probably don't have that problem.
When using a click type torque wrench, and even with one of very expensive digital ones like Peter is using, many people make the mistake of tightening too fast, so that they exceed the set torque by quite a bit. Some people keep pulling on the wrench after it clicks or beeps. You want to avoid that. Peter is doing it correctly by using slow, even pressure until it beeps. Fortunately, on cars and trucks being in a hurry tightening seldom causes problems. The rather wide torque range they specify proves that. Head bolts are the ones you need to do exactly as the manufacturer specifies. Also the main bearing bolts, and the connecting rod cap bolts. Even in lawnmowers, you want those to be right, so they don't unscrew after a few hours. Not only do you have vibration to consider, but they get hot and cold repeatedly.
Torque wrenches make good Christmas presents for DIY folks who don't have any. I bought a cheap set on Amazon. That is good enough, since I'm not working on airliners or rocket engines. After the SpaceX Starship had to be blown up in Texas a few months ago, the FAA told them that some bolts needed to be tightened more, or made larger, to prevent leaks.
How much is the current price of that snrape truck tool today?
Just guessing, but I think a Snap On digital torque wrench cost about $ 400. @@LAactor
I have 1999 Toyota Corolla LE I asked that the parts counter he said NGK with a dual tip I got Denso Platinum tip single electrode witch one is correct?
Great Video. The little jobs , If not done correct and safe. Can cost you a lot of money.!!
Great job and video. Thank you, Peter.👍🇨🇦🇺🇸
4 Al Gore's rhythm
- thanks
👍👍thanks
Thank you.