Have I made a huge mistake! - 1954 Ford F600 Car Hauler Build part 13
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
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Jeff, what made you choose one model over the other of the 70mai? Not sure which one to get. And why 800s over the 810? Thanks!
@@Torch4ya I believe the 810 has a better sensor, but it a bit more expensive, so I suppose go with whatever is better for your need and budget.
I reckon moving the front suspension forwards by 220mm will do the same trick and will, relatively speaking, be easier than moving the entire engine and driveline. Especially moving the rear suspension looks like it will be tricky; the bow in the chassis rail is there to allow the full range of motion for the rear axle.
Excited to see what you will make of it either way
this would also mean he does not have to shorten the frame
Awww, man I was half expecting a top-mount radiator in the space over the engine!
Whats involved in moving the front axle forward instead?
Same Question
Exactly what I was wondering
Yup! This would make way more sense since he has to modify the steering box as well.
If youre moving the whole running gear further back except the front axle, why not move just the front axle forwards? Crazy project!
It's not a solid axle, but rather independend front suspension with arms that bolt to the frame. It's a massive pain to move all the suspension points, compared to just a couple of engine mounts.
@@unavailable8681 but he needs to redo the rear axle mounts too. Although that on a live axle would be easier. Never knew these were independent front
this. I know it will be more work than just moving the engine (and potentially the rear end) but he will still get the longer wheel base and not have to shorten the frame, so will have more tray space. seeing as they look like strait frame rails at the front, he could make up a pattern for all of the new bolt locations (potentially using PC CAD and the plasma cutter) to make it easier. if the engine sump becomes a problem, looks like he has plenty of vertical space to move the engine upwards to clear.
My initial thoughts were to move the suspension forward. Seems much easier than moving all the engine mounts and rear suspension.
@@unavailable8681engine mounts will just be the start of the hassle, unstitching the rear suspension brackets, fuel lines and many others will surely end up being more hassle than just focusing on the front suspension.
Came here to post what lots of others have. I’d be looking at moving the steering forward, that’s got to be easier than moving everything else instead.
You could always move the front suspension forward...
Thanks @homebuiltbyJeff and Weldclass for the welding helmet I recently won through your competition. Very much appreciated 👍👌
Congratulations mate
Loving this build. I think this hiccup is going to take it to another level in the long run
Why not move the front crossmember with wheels forwards then move the cab forward to match? If the frame rails are straight, wouldn’t that do the job? You’re still moving an axle.
That was my thought.
Was thinking that too. Curious to know his thoughts
Me too! Surely easier to move the wheels forward?
Or floor mount radiator further back underneath.
Im guessing its around the Australian Engineering Requirements for modified vehicles. Changing the Wheelbase / Wheel Track requires a lot more scruitineering than moving the crossmember does. Essentially, Registering a Different body shell on a standard production frame is a lot different from modifying the wheelbase.
You could also move the front suspension and cab forward by 220mm, instead of moving the engine and rear axle..
A lot of great suggestions, here’s a wild one. Step cut the chassis in front of the engine mounts and extend or shorten the front end not unlike a stretch limo, only two weld points
I vote for a 1940 Ford cab over engine design for the Frankenhauler and then use the F600 in a separate F600 restoration. You end up with two gems,
In addition to moving the cab forward, you could extend the hood and fenders, too. You love that metal work, and you're great at it, too 😁
For a few moments there, I thought I was in downtown Dehli, seeing you at the wheel reversing the hauler! LoL
Love the build and looking forward to seeing have you tackle the steering box relocation.
Surly it is easier to move the front axle forward 220mm then it is to move everything else back 220mm?
Hey look at it this way, better weight distribution! Just what every sports truck needs! Wonder if you could move it back even more and make it front-mid engined… 🧐😉✌️
Haha. Now you're talking!
It's basically a race car now, getting all fancy moving the weight backwards!
Rear mount radiator or mount the radiator under the floor would also be possible solutions.
or in the huge space he has on top of the engine
I am addicted to this build!!!
I am going to own a 52-56 F1-2-3-4-5-600 one day!!!! And as a hauler makes so much sense!!!
These are a regular and enjoyable part of my Sunday mornings... Thanks
(One for the Al Gore rhythm :D )
Jeff, considering you will have to modify both the pedals and steering anyway would it not make sense to relocate the front axle forward 220 millimetres instead. Whilst it would require some calculation on the ackermann, that would allow you a much longer rear tray, without having to extend the frame
What once was, is no more. I love these videos. And being a fan for years, it's cool to see you finally get some sponsors. Don't let the little things hang you up. You got the skills, drive and knowledge. I'm a bit ambivalent about your idea of moving the rear axle, but c'est la vie. I think, as an homage to Toyota, you should find an early model Toyota steering wheel. Maybe from a Hilux, or something from their truck line. Either way, can't wait to see where this goes.
You could also extend the fenders and hood, make them longer and keep it placed as is.
Hi Jeff, love this video, I'm with alot of others in thinking moving the front axle forward may be the simpler way to go. Cheers
Mrs. Jeff got the muscle 💪😂
That half of old cab out front of the Ford cab reminds me those old open cab limousines. I realize there wouldn't be much use for that, but it would be really cool to do something like that on this project. ...but that's just me.
You absolutely have to leave the steering wheel and driving position in front of the cab. Would be hilarious 😂
Like the Cannonball Run 2 Cadillac ;)
Skip the big radiator, use two smaller once like in a porsche. To move the truck disconnect the rear axel from gerabox.
I'm thinking the same, there is plenty of room above the motor, given it is positioned between the rails for cab-over.
@cameronblackbourn5081 and then there is no need to move any axels ect. Bolt on kit..
Have you considered to either move the radiator to another spot or move the front axle instead?
Awesome project Jeff, enjoying it.
Any custom build is going to be a learning curve loving this project Jeff
Are the bends to clear the rear axle going to be in the right spot if you move the whole driveline back? Especially as I think you wanted to lower it. What does the sump look like, are you going to have enough clearance to the front crossmember? LandCruiser rear sumps may be an option as they'll need to clear a front axle. Could you relocate the steering box to where you need it on the chassis then build a new drag(?) link? possibly easier to engineer than an extended steering shaft. I like the idea of moving the front crossmember and suspension forwards but as it's torision bar you'd need either longer torsion bars (which possibly changes the spring rate) or move the torsion bar mounts as well.
This is getting interesting…I’m really enjoying this build…good one Jeff.
Jay and Benny thats some serious talent to help a guy out .
Good work Jeff, I admire your indomitable spirit. Bravo!
Keep on trucking 😊
I've been wondering about the front overhang since this project started, I guess we have an answer now :/ LOL. It's a shame you can't get a cool COE cab, they look way cooler.
17:47 PRICELESS !!!! i did not expect that, but you made my day Madame. ^_______^
wow! It looks like there will be a few more videos.
And I must honestly say that I couldn't really see what you are working towards.
But now that all the old sheet metal is gone, it is surprisingly taking shape and that is very nice to see, I am very curious about the sequel🙂👍🏻
My Mind has now been blown. I would extend the guards and bonnet. But in saying that. I work in an office. ;) good luck Jeff.
Glad you figured it out mate. As for moving the rear axle, well I'd read through the NCOP as I don't think you're allow to change the track length. I know width can only be 25mm more than standard. Plus the axle would no longer reside within the hump of the chassis rails and hence reduce suspension travel. A shortened prop shouldn't be all that expensive although this is Australia and not USA so could be wrong on that one.
I think it's gonna end up kinda like an old-school American altered funny car with half the engine behind the firewall. Still..... NO PROBLEM! Somebody's been there, you'll be fine!
Type 1 fun……it is easy and all bolts together………..type 2 fun……it’s hard in the moment but on reflection really satisfying and memorable! Type 2 fun ahead - good for us too!
Longer tray for sure, you will be glad doing that mod. Moving the drive train back is the way to go.
Looks like there’s plenty of space for a radiator (or 2 plumbed in series) above the engine.
In Calcutta, that truck would be like new within a week 😂😂
thks for the video mate one hell of a project👍😁
If you do move the rear axle as well, it would be really cool if you ocnverted it to Air ride! It would look amazing laying frame, but also help loading low cars! Side note: It would be really cool to see Jay visit for a bit of custom work! I can't get over how fast he works!
Bom dia
Parabéns mais um projeto fantástico
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🇧🇷
Jeff! " It's Alive and Kicking"! One step forward two steps back! Jeff, i had a Cop tell me that once as a young man! Thank God i was sitting in the passenger seat! Dean( Soul)Toronto 🇨🇦
Lots of work ahead Jeff, that’s my day job . Good luck mate
-Spanky
You are fearless my friend!! Such a cool project.
Your videos always motive me on working on my own project, a 1982 Classic Mini.
So what i gather, is that you didnt mess up. The project is just a bit more in-depth than you had anticipated. 100% confidence in you on this one. Just means we get a few more episodes of the FrankenHauler build.
More classic Jeffro MacGyver skills.
I always love watching you think and nut out your problems😂
Front subframe forward is the solution here
Looks like a pretty big job to move the engine, fuel lines, etc and then all the rear suspension welded on brackets. I dont expect its quick, but wouldnt it be more simple to unstitch the front suspension and move it forward? That way all the other components stay fixed in place.
If you're too cold, today's high in central Illinois is only 94°. The heat index is 107°.
Not my monkey and not my Circus but if I was building this, which I'm not and never had, 😂 I would rather move the front axle forward and bring the cab forward. That way the engine sits correctly and the rear chassis is longer...
Given you have such a lot of space on top of the Toyota engine, could you just shift the radiator to a new location and cut the frame rails back
What a massive project! Great going!👏
Move the axle. You have alotore complications moving the power plant and rear axle and prop can stay standard. You are changing from a cab over so the steering is getting changed about anyway and moving nack reduces the useful space that it is ACTUALLY FOR! Also puts more wieght over the driven wheel when loaded...
You can have room to make a front storage compartment for straps and stuff under the hood, above the engine.
Hey up Mrs jeff loved your fashion choice for doing the cab lift, moving stuff back or forward is relatively straightforward did something a bit similar years ago putting a 351C in a landcruiser and ment a fire wall mod but standard propshafts, good progress mate
Let's guess Mrs. Jeff's name.... I'm going for Jenny.
Loving the content as always!!!
Check your oil pan to axle clearance.... making sure that won't interfere or make your plans harder...when you move the engine over the axle.... you could relocate the radiator? to behind cab ? as an option? driveshafts are easily shortened at a good drivetrain company...you have a hanger bearing and 2 driveshaft setup now...could replace it with a single shaft? they can advise you on that plan...
🇨🇦🤓🤟
Crazy but you got this!
My dad used to say "no hill for a stepper!".. you can make that work. No worries. Couldda lengthened the fenders and hood - that would have been an interesting look!
Metalworking a longer nose would have been easy for someone like you :D
This is were my head went also. Some mod of the front sheet metal. Seems even easier than the front axle move (also not a bad idea)
I reckon it might be easier to just move the front axle forward…..a whole lot less work Jeff
First fit and proposed mods look 👍
Good stuff Jeff. Love your progress!
Hope you kept the Coaster vin plates lol
Remove the whole clutch fan assembly, move the radiators somewhere else if needed, and job done! Fuck me, i don't know who comes with these advices but they should go by the doctor's office more often!
To infinity & beyond!
Great progress Jeff. 👍😎👍
Nice work, Jeff
Dude, you are batting so far above your average; Mrs Jeff is lovely.
yes, you murdered a lovely camper bus !
Go for it Geff it will be awesome following you. Take care
Don't envy you for the Highlands winter
Jeff good work. Can't help think it could be better as a cab over / cab forward of the wheel line - like the Mercedes 300SL racer carrier trucks of the 1960's. either way, good show
Wouldn't moving the front axle forward be the same as moving the engine back. Originally, I actually thought you were going to build a cab over truck. Look forward to seeing this project proceed.
I know you like the truck with the long nose, but ever thought about converting it to a COE? Just for the fact of best vision & manoeuvrability around narrow roads & pit lanes at race tracks. Anyway love what you doing👍
I foreshadowed this last week " cabover would have been easier " now sticking to this cab every line will have to be shortened and remade plus the doors if the cab is dropped the doors will have the chassis showing when they are opened . One big can of worms
My Mrs says you have more downs than ups, seems a bit harsh to me 😂😂😂
Radiator in the back with fans under the bed floor
And the most beat up truck of the century award goes to!
Only the frame super structure need stay in tact.
Everything else can Get Franklin Hauling…
Forgot to add, a one piece flip front would make access a doddle
I'd much rather shorten a tail shaft than relocate an entire axle, personally. One part to change vs. hours and hours and hours of fabrication.
Getting a longer tray has been one of my concerns as well, so extending the wheelbase helps with that a lot too.
Splice in a piece of chassis from another coaster@@HomeBuiltByJeff
Then u would lengthen the driveshaft
@@weshipitjamaica4354 not if the engine and gearbox come backwards
This is it !Move the front suspension forward , then move the cab forward. Move the rear axle (diff) back ,add air bags ,lengthen the tail shaft .You then have everything solved including an extra long tray that can be lowered when loading vehicles off and on cheers
Hoping the sump will still fit after the rearward movement ... and the steering might be a slight problem. Thoroughly enjoying this project, Hope it all goes well for you. Might need a wee snail on the engine if you want to carry any larger loads ...
Yeah Jeff I'm not really on board with you on this one, i really think you should move the suspension forward, and modify the front of the f250 fenders and hood to make the truck a COE Ford
If I may say ! Move engine back not diff and shorter front drive line or cut frame shorter but rules in America are different in Australia
Would it be easier to move the engine and rear axle back or the front wheels forward?
That Toyota was the perfect choice Jeff✌
the tank might be a vaccum tank.
Put the radiator behind the engine, keep it safe from Kangaroo strikes.
Surely moving the rear axle is just creating work? Getting a tail shaft shortened would be much quicker.
Would moving the rear axle backwards also reduce the space for a ramped section to help loading lowered cars?
Wow i mean this is quite the project!!