Setting Bump Steer with a Tape Measure!
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Let's talk about bump steer and how important it is to making your car drive better. This is the way I do it, I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish the same thing and may be more accurate. But this is how to do it with a tape measure in your shop to get it pretty close! The most important thing is check at ride height and also check it with a jacked up front end at the separation it will be going down the race track! If you street drive mostly, a lot of toe in will destroy tires in a hurry. If you only drag race, the most important setting is when it is going down track.
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Before any measurements are taken, one should take the steering lock to lock then back to center and lock down the steering wheel so it can't rotate. That way there is no internal play in the rackNpinion. From there one properly sets the toe which also centers the steering wheel.
01:00 If the radius of the swivel points of the control arm and the steering arm are not on the same center, the circles of travel will overlap at some point. This will affect the distance from the steering connection point on the wheel spindle in relation to the control arm, and the wheel will steer in relation to that difference. Can I come and write manuals John? 😉!
Nice one John, enjoyed the video. Making progress there!
put two pieces of sheet metal together with grease and it makes a perfect pair of turn tables so the wheels can move easy for tow adjustments.
Nice idea!!!
I have done it that away for years unless it's a daily driver then it goes to a alignment shop it takes a long time doing it with a tape measure but it works. Great content as always be safe 👍
Plus remember to Center the steering wheel before you start doing all this
Hey Turbo John, Just a couple of tips for the Front Alignment.
The Inner Steering Rack End(pivot) Has to be aligned with the Lower Control Arm mounting Bolt (pivot). Even if You have the Control Arm and Tie Rod on the same Plane. If not You Will still get Bump Steer. As the Front Suspension moves through its Travel, The Tie Rod Length changes and upsets the Toe. Also you should Always centre the Steering Rack before You
Adjust the Toe. Keep Working Dude. Loving the Videos, Cheers..
This is correct info. If the inner tie rod pivot points are not in the correct location to start with you'll be pissing into the wind trying to eliminate bump steer. Remount the rack to correct this if necessary before moving on. Ackerman & caster will also effect your tow readings if both wheels are not dead even to the centerline.
As well as you've done with what you had, it's super exciting to see how things will go with the new, lightweight, purpose-built car!
Man some of those old welds look bad John maybe you should go over some of that stuff before it gets worse
Four jack stands, tape measure, a level, a straight piece of something the length of the rim lip diameter and some string will get all 4 dialed in as close or better than an alignment shop. This also allows you to put the car in any pitch attitude and verify alignment
It seems like you have said what I was thinking and with more detail than I could have given. Great job Bill Clark 👏
@@larrysutton6530 forgot a tape measure haha
I’ve been struggling with this exact issue and happened to find your old video. Hope you guys are doing well. Maybe we’ll catch up with you at NPK this year.
Just a little shared experience not related to bump steer. Having a single down pipe pointed to the right without a bullhorn will push the car left. You wouldn't think it, but the force of the exhaust is in fact strong enough to push the front of the car. In my case, I split the downpipe behind the exhaust housing and had pipes out both sides and it fixed my problem. But a 90 degree bend, regardless of whether you point it upward or backward will negate the course altering push the force of the exhaust creates. Just trying to save you some headaches when you start testing.
I love the fact that you build your car on a budget and showing everyone that you don't have to have the latest and greatest parts and still can go fast
I use to do it this way for many years, but the last couple yrs I've taken it to the race shop and put on their gauges since it's free. I always like seeing how others do their way, so yes, keep up the inside videos. Edit: Great video!
I’ve always set the car up the way it travels down the track. Front end raised and then set the toe.
It's not allowing me to like the video... well it finally allowed it. I guess RUclips seen i wasn't going to give up trying. 🤪🤪
Man I wish I could spend about a week with you your videos are so informational and I’m fixing to start building my car
One thing to remember is the camber. As the wheel travels through the extension of the strut the camber will change and will get more positive because the upper point is fixed. To help, make it more negative at ride height. It should help with scrubbing the tire with your toe situation, plus it will keep it closer to zero at full extension. With close to zero camber and some positive toe you have more tread on the ground and the car is easier to steer and very stable. At least that is what I have found with my junk! Car looks great! Can't wait to see it go 6's in the 1/4!
I've done it this way before but put someone in the driver seat near my weight. Plus a old man taught me you should put the car on the ground and roll a couple feet back and forth check it again each time you make and adjustment.
the little bit of play from wheel bearings
Don't forget to allow for driver weight on the driver side. Also there are offset bushings for the steering rack, to help with bumpsteer.
Maybe do a quick check after race weight is achieved.
I use a set of blocks of the same height,on the ground butted up to the tires,front and back.Keep the tape against the blocks .That way you're taking your measurements at the same height every time & camber doesn't cause verying measurements do to being at different heights across the tires. Just something that I've found to work.
Hi John. Your on the right track. It is hard to tell from the camera angles during the video.... that being said , if you lengthen or shorten the distance in the bolt that connects the outer tie rod (or heim joint in your case) so that the complete inner/outer tie rod assembly stays parallel with the lower control arm ( viewed from the front ) this should take care of 99% of the change in toe effect. There are other factors but it your case here it looks like bolt holding the outer heim joint/tie rod to the steering knuckle (spindle assembly) needs to be longer and more spacer added between the outer tie rod and steering knuckle. Hope this helps. Keep the videos coming...... btw the "wow" factor of the old car and the performance of it are truly amazing. Looking forward to seeing the new one making passes
I believe they have offset bushings for the rack mounts. These allow you to change the inner pivot point of the tie rods higher or lower to get the radius of the tie rods closer to the radius of the spindle.
Brian In the robe....love it
A lot of value in this one John thanks
Another good viedo. You are almost race ready. Stay blessed
Great informative video as always! Thanks TJ!!👊🏾
Don't forget that you are not in race trim,hood_rad._ fuel & tank _ driver. Just a thought.
When you scream line on the center of the tire and use a beer can with a piece of paper on the beer can marked tools
Longer uploads are great!
I gotta do this to mine and now I know how! 😂
Good lesson John. Thank you.
Good video John . Very informative..👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
I heard boost is my friend is giving free paint jobs to RUclipsrs
All that cyphering had me wanting to take my shoes off 😲
Looking good almost ready for action
I've set up alot of suspensions over the years but mostly on SCCA road race setups or really setups never for drag racing so this was very interesting..but I do have a question..do your coilover shocks not have separate settings for height and spring rate?? Most of what I'm used to working with seems alot different that what you have so I'm just trying to learn a bit... thankyou for showing all of this it was very informative
Better than watching paint dry
I suppose dropping the rack some isn't an option, or would have already done it?. Quite a bit of drop on the bump steer kit.
Another guy who really knows his stuff on suspension for racecars is Kevin Wilson!! Y'all should check out his channel!!
I watch his vids too.
Great content thumbs up
Awesome updates!!🏁 WHAT MADE YOU SWITCH FROM ONE CHASSIS TO THE OTHER?
I think it was a few factors. The old one was getting worn out, they had a hard time getting it to go down the track straight, rear steer and probably a bunch of other stuff I don’t know about.
When they were stripping the old car down they found several stress cracks in the floor pan.
Andy is right! And this new car should be lighter! The 9” should solve the broken rear gear issue too.
👍
You want toe in on a drag car. You do not want it even. When the car goes down the track the faster you go the tires are being pushed outward.
So you always want them toed in to start with.
Could u lower the rack?
Could you tell us about your engine and transmission setup?
Powerglide, SBC 364ci
I struggle to stay awake