damn this actually works! I used duct tape to secure the sandpaper to the valve but it does work! I currently have to use low grit to get out the big issues but it follows the contours even if there are multiple angles. Great fix without going to a machine shop
0:06 Correction: If it's gonna leak water during the test, it will DEFINITELY leak air. A better test is to use rubbing alcohol instead of water, as it has a lower viscosity and much less surface tension than water, so it can leak through smaller gaps than water, showing you even smaller problem areas.
Great idea!!! Thanks for sharing,👍 I have an old tractor with a peculiar problem where the valves wore themselves in to the head to a mushroom shape. No hardened seats in the head, just bare cast, but with new valves I will try this method and see if I can't increase the remaining surface area withought machining.
I've done lapping compound many times. It just takes along time. What he's showing is basically a poor man's way of grinding seats without the stones or $300 to $400 machine. Sandpaper on the valve is like using a stone
😳 WOW!…. What a Fantastic Idea! I can see that this will work just fine. Your Exactly Correct that this will indeed save money on costly tools! I’ll get back to you on how well it worked out….. ✌️
Thank you so much for the technic, in fact i thought about it but wouldn't have the balls to do it without seeing your video, your awsome. Ps¹: i just used gasoline to remoove the litle patches and the glue, then the rest came out at the grinding by hand. Ps²: first i used 240 water paper because of the gap with the new valve guides (hand hammered) then 400 Peace
Great idea, I need to cut seats to for larger valves, or at least move the seat area on the valve, only problem is the valve is 16mm , I'd like to go to 18/23mm, instead of 16/18mm, the sad part is the valves are seating on the smallest part of the valve possible, so it's more like 14.7-15mm with the rest of the valve shrouding it's self, either boring out the seats, to seat on the mid to outer portion of the valves, or grind off the valves making them smaller, doesn't normally make sense to go with smaller valves to improve flow, but the are at least 1mm in their own way, I'm used to 2"+ valves( 2.02 / 1.60" and such) the smallest seat cutter I found is 20mm, 30°/45°< I'd be happy with a cutter that would only do 45°, and do 16mm-18.5mm, 20would be better, I can get 20/23valves for this head, it's a small engine, and no revlimit, it still will not spin over 8500, it runs out of air, even with ported head, and larger intake and carb, exhaust! Even with a cam! It is severely under valved!! The ports are huge compared to the valve opening! I'd like to atleast swap to a 18mm exhaust, but 20mm would fit the 1" port better, the intake is also 25mm, and I want to go to a 26mm carb, the 7mm valve stems don't help either! A 5mm would help, with it but down to 4mm, the spring rate is kinda low, so a 7mm stem isn't needed, sorry to ramble, but I was thinking about brazing small pieces of a file to a old valve, similar to this sandpaper thing, if I had access ta machine shop, I could make a cutter I'm sure, with replaceable cutters, sorry again for the rambling, but the engine runs ok, with the small valves, and ported head, and opened up seat throat, I wish I had ground the valve diameter, about 1mmand back cut them a bit, it may had made another 1/4-1/2 HP, that's a lot when you are starting with about 3.2hp at 7500, I'd say, (guess) it is about 5-6hp now, I'm shooting for about 10-12hp at 9500-10k rpm, with 1.5" stroke it should do it!! After the valve upgrade, and increase the compression ratio to about 11:1 , it's about 9.5-9.8:1 now, about .3-.4 more than stock, unshrouding the valves in the chamber , reduced it slightly, but is a major improvement over stock, low lift flow should be greatly improved, next step is a bigger bore, big valves, and a stroker crank, nearly doubling displacement!! Rambling I know!!
That sandpaper did a really good job getting everything all sealed up again. That was a pretty bad scratch in there. After I ran the compression test when the engine was all put back together it showed that it worked as good as the other valves. It be nice to have the special tools, but it worked just fine
hmmmmm... This might just do the trick! I was using toothpaste to grind away the area (didn't feel like buying compound) but one valve seat was pretty damaged from rust. I gotta get some real grinding compound to redo the others, use that water trick, and see what I can get done!
That's so dumb the whole point in using valve grinding paste is so that it grinds the valve and the valve seat to the exact same size if you only grind the seat then they won't match up
damn this actually works! I used duct tape to secure the sandpaper to the valve but it does work! I currently have to use low grit to get out the big issues but it follows the contours even if there are multiple angles. Great fix without going to a machine shop
3:25 The sound that valve makes, when you push it in the guide is no good 😵💫
0:06 Correction: If it's gonna leak water during the test, it will DEFINITELY leak air. A better test is to use rubbing alcohol instead of water, as it has a lower viscosity and much less surface tension than water, so it can leak through smaller gaps than water, showing you even smaller problem areas.
Great idea!!! Thanks for sharing,👍 I have an old tractor with a peculiar problem where the valves wore themselves in to the head to a mushroom shape. No hardened seats in the head, just bare cast, but with new valves I will try this method and see if I can't increase the remaining surface area withought machining.
The best way to check the leakage is put the water on the head dome then spray the pressurized air on the port
I've done lapping compound many times. It just takes along time. What he's showing is basically a poor man's way of grinding seats without the stones or $300 to $400 machine. Sandpaper on the valve is like using a stone
😳 WOW!…. What a Fantastic Idea! I can see that this will work just fine. Your Exactly Correct that this will indeed save money on costly tools! I’ll get back to you on how well it worked out….. ✌️
Permatex valve grinding compound is good
air molecules are smaller than water, I always use gas to check for leakage...
Petrol evaporates so you won't 100% whether it's evaporating or leaking, you should use diesel
I usually put polishing compund instead of sandpaper. But your way works too
whoah!!!.....that's a neat trick to keep in the back of our minds....
Thank you so much for the technic, in fact i thought about it but wouldn't have the balls to do it without seeing your video, your awsome.
Ps¹: i just used gasoline to remoove the litle patches and the glue, then the rest came out at the grinding by hand.
Ps²: first i used 240 water paper because of the gap with the new valve guides (hand hammered) then 400
Peace
Great idea, I need to cut seats to for larger valves, or at least move the seat area on the valve, only problem is the valve is 16mm , I'd like to go to 18/23mm, instead of 16/18mm, the sad part is the valves are seating on the smallest part of the valve possible, so it's more like 14.7-15mm with the rest of the valve shrouding it's self, either boring out the seats, to seat on the mid to outer portion of the valves, or grind off the valves making them smaller, doesn't normally make sense to go with smaller valves to improve flow, but the are at least 1mm in their own way, I'm used to 2"+ valves( 2.02 / 1.60" and such) the smallest seat cutter I found is 20mm, 30°/45°< I'd be happy with a cutter that would only do 45°, and do 16mm-18.5mm, 20would be better, I can get 20/23valves for this head, it's a small engine, and no revlimit, it still will not spin over 8500, it runs out of air, even with ported head, and larger intake and carb, exhaust! Even with a cam! It is severely under valved!! The ports are huge compared to the valve opening! I'd like to atleast swap to a 18mm exhaust, but 20mm would fit the 1" port better, the intake is also 25mm, and I want to go to a 26mm carb, the 7mm valve stems don't help either! A 5mm would help, with it but down to 4mm, the spring rate is kinda low, so a 7mm stem isn't needed, sorry to ramble, but I was thinking about brazing small pieces of a file to a old valve, similar to this sandpaper thing, if I had access ta machine shop, I could make a cutter I'm sure, with replaceable cutters, sorry again for the rambling, but the engine runs ok, with the small valves, and ported head, and opened up seat throat, I wish I had ground the valve diameter, about 1mmand back cut them a bit, it may had made another 1/4-1/2 HP, that's a lot when you are starting with about 3.2hp at 7500, I'd say, (guess) it is about 5-6hp now, I'm shooting for about 10-12hp at 9500-10k rpm, with 1.5" stroke it should do it!! After the valve upgrade, and increase the compression ratio to about 11:1 , it's about 9.5-9.8:1 now, about .3-.4 more than stock, unshrouding the valves in the chamber , reduced it slightly, but is a major improvement over stock, low lift flow should be greatly improved, next step is a bigger bore, big valves, and a stroker crank, nearly doubling displacement!! Rambling I know!!
Good comment, gives my brain something to chew on! Lol
ruclips.net/user/shorts2W3A1_uD-yg?feature=shared. How I do it with a dremel tool
Bro. 80 grit and try some oil to cut, like wd
great this what im looking for. thanks
Helpful- gives me some ideas to solve my problem on my BMW e30 head if I need to change some of the guides; the valve seats will then need some work.
That sandpaper did a really good job getting everything all sealed up again. That was a pretty bad scratch in there. After I ran the compression test when the engine was all put back together it showed that it worked as good as the other valves. It be nice to have the special tools, but it worked just fine
That’s a pretty inventive way of getting the job done.
dont get it just go buy some lapping compound and save all the time of gluing paper to valves total loss
hmmmmm... This might just do the trick! I was using toothpaste to grind away the area (didn't feel like buying compound) but one valve seat was pretty damaged from rust. I gotta get some real grinding compound to redo the others, use that water trick, and see what I can get done!
This might have saved me a ton of money.
What was your static compression after this trick?
Awsome. Cool fix.
Hey, do your seats not have 3 angles from the factory?
Creative thinking.
Can You Do This On A Small Engine 3.75 Briggs Stration
what expensive tools are we talking about? grinding compound?
Use gasoline after water gas will piss where water holds
Thanks for the idea
Great idea. Gonna use it to remove the pits in mine.
Did it work for the pitting?
i like ur style
Great
That port looks crude for a German 5 valve job!
Did you try this in a cast iron head?!
terrific idea thanks
Lovely
That's a Yamaha head isn't it? R1 head?
A4 Audi 1997
Looks like you should have got a new seat. They are not hard to replace
I thought I was the only one who tried this!! lol
Hack job
That's so dumb the whole point in using valve grinding paste is so that it grinds the valve and the valve seat to the exact same size if you only grind the seat then they won't match up
Why the quotes? Do you think they're not _really_ called valve seats?