My very first car was a 1959 TR-3A. Bought cheap because of a front end crash. I learned a lot from that car. How to run the valves, I would float the valves at least 2 a week!. I learned more about electricity than anyone really needs to know! Lucas Electric, The Prince of darkness! I wish I still had that car!
Nicely done David! I didn't see in the video, but wondered if you put some seam sealer around the perimeter of that body mount bracket, to keep water out of there? I imagine the reason TR3s tend to rust there is due moisture getting trapped between the mount and fender, eventually leading to the corrosion.
@@alanm.4298 I will put some there for sure…I want to epoxy prime that area first though before I add the sealer. I also did some welding across the top of the bracket on the seam to help keep it tighter there as well. Cheers, Tush
Just FYI, i believe these rust because water gets sprayed in the wheel wells and infiltrates between the bracket and the body so you may want to put seam sealer on the seams. The bracket with the cutout is from later tr3a; kilmartin in australia reproduces this part if yours are not salvagable. Lastly i think these would have been a bit easier to drill out the spotwelds from inside the fender (thinner gauge steel) than through the bracket. I managed to release them in situ, but it is a pita. Great work and thank you for sharing - tremendously helpful!!!
@@gretsch8705 agreed, there needs to be seam sealer on top of those brackets and around the sides to stop water getting in there. Good idea for the spot welds. I found it easier to identify where they were on the backside…thanks for the info on the brackets. Cheers, Tush
That thumbnail makes me uncomfortable. 😂 That was some amazing tin work on those front wings. It is always a pleasure to see things get done as correctly as possible. The first time I sat in a brand new TR3A was in 1959. I was smitten, but as so often happens in life I would never own, drive or even ride in a TR3. It may not be too late as a member of Rusty Beauties is rebuilding one presently and he only lives about 120km away. He is presently unaware of his good fortune that I plan to bring him a box of chocolates when the car is on the street again and am looking forward to a ride.
Interesting, tricky repair ! Not an unreasonable failure point for such a basic old car. I suppose being in the wheelwell and with the bracket mount and inner wings just being pulled together, there is scope over the years for water to penetrate between the surfaces and sit there rotting the metal. Hopefully a smear of modern seam sealer and a coat of epoxy primer will now prevent this !
Have you seen the EvapoRust substitutes? Cheaper, removes less metal in addition to the rust, and last longer according to the Tuber. Beyond Ballistics has one recipe.
Another nice British restoration. I know that this is car is going from a 1957 to 1959 transition....and as tempting as it may seem don't copy what Jaguar has done with their recent transition. Trust me!
Good Morning David, news that the Loonie is down to 71 cents just makes U.S. sourced parts more expensive I guess. I hope it doesn’t affect you and Elin too badly. If you order direct from the U.K. (apart from the longer delay due to shipping), does it make things any cheaper for you?
@@philtucker1224 our dollar is weak against both the us and uk unfortunately…shipping costs are also a killer. We also pay 13% tax on purchases. It’s very expensive to restore a car now. For example, the cage nuts I like for this car….for 12 cage nuts it’s $29 US…that’s $41 Canadian plus shipping of at least another $10. It’s crazy! $50 for 12 cage nuts.
Seems like it would have been easier to fabricate new metal pieces to replace what you cut out, rather than attempting to take apart what was there as you had good templates?
Really enjoying this
My very first car was a 1959 TR-3A. Bought cheap because of a front end crash. I learned a lot from that car. How to run the valves, I would float the valves at least 2 a week!. I learned more about electricity than anyone really needs to know! Lucas Electric, The Prince of darkness! I wish I still had that car!
@@jhaedtler they are certainly a lot of fun ! Thanks for watching.
Yes that is an excellent repair, glad to see how it all came together after getting it all apart. Thanks for the video.
Great how to video. When I saw the thumbnail for this episode I thought you had a new logo or maybe a tee shirt.
I do like the cartoon look!
@ make a great shirt
Good morning David! 😁🇬🇧
Morning Phil, thanks for stopping by.
Great to see the before and after, not to mention the back of the panels you cut out, good job
Thanks 👍
Nicely done David!
I didn't see in the video, but wondered if you put some seam sealer around the perimeter of that body mount bracket, to keep water out of there? I imagine the reason TR3s tend to rust there is due moisture getting trapped between the mount and fender, eventually leading to the corrosion.
@@alanm.4298 I will put some there for sure…I want to epoxy prime that area first though before I add the sealer. I also did some welding across the top of the bracket on the seam to help keep it tighter there as well. Cheers, Tush
Nice job, Tush. Think they used enough spot welds, lol? Keep the camera rolling!
Yeah, you might have fun with these on yours!
Just FYI, i believe these rust because water gets sprayed in the wheel wells and infiltrates between the bracket and the body so you may want to put seam sealer on the seams. The bracket with the cutout is from later tr3a; kilmartin in australia reproduces this part if yours are not salvagable. Lastly i think these would have been a bit easier to drill out the spotwelds from inside the fender (thinner gauge steel) than through the bracket. I managed to release them in situ, but it is a pita. Great work and thank you for sharing - tremendously helpful!!!
@@gretsch8705 agreed, there needs to be seam sealer on top of those brackets and around the sides to stop water getting in there. Good idea for the spot welds. I found it easier to identify where they were on the backside…thanks for the info on the brackets. Cheers, Tush
That thumbnail makes me uncomfortable. 😂 That was some amazing tin work on those front wings. It is always a pleasure to see things get done as correctly as possible.
The first time I sat in a brand new TR3A was in 1959. I was smitten, but as so often happens in life I would never own, drive or even ride in a TR3. It may not be too late as a member of Rusty Beauties is rebuilding one presently and he only lives about 120km away. He is presently unaware of his good fortune that I plan to bring him a box of chocolates when the car is on the street again and am looking forward to a ride.
@@BruceBoschek I’m assuming that’s Uwe you are talking about?
@cheftush Shhhh! 😂
@@BruceBoschek I’m sure he would be more than happy to take you for a ride! I want video!
@@cheftush 😁
Interesting, tricky repair ! Not an unreasonable failure point for such a basic old car.
I suppose being in the wheelwell and with the bracket mount and inner wings just being pulled together, there is scope over the years for water to penetrate between the surfaces and sit there rotting the metal. Hopefully a smear of modern seam sealer and a coat of epoxy primer will now prevent this !
@@johnmoruzzi7236 yes, definitely needs seem sealer…I did actually weld three areas across the top of the brackets as well.
Zoom zoom 😊
Rock on !
Hi David you must have been brushing up on your guitar skills by the sound of your backing track 😂
I wish I could play guitar that well…I only play bass ( not well either 😉)
Nice 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Have you seen the EvapoRust substitutes? Cheaper, removes less metal in addition to the rust, and last longer according to the Tuber. Beyond Ballistics has one recipe.
@@MrWaalkman no I haven’t…I’ve had a 25 gallon bucket of evaporust for a number of years…I don’t know if I’ll ever use it up in my lifetime 😉
Another nice British restoration. I know that this is car is going from a 1957 to 1959 transition....and as tempting as it may seem don't copy what Jaguar has done with their recent transition.
Trust me!
@@iceman9678 lol I hear you. Just awful. Could be the end for them…
Making it look simple, going to be done by spring?
@@pucman1 lol no. I was thinking of you when I was doing these.
@@cheftushwell my body bolt kit is on the way
@ excellent! Look forward to seeing some videos.
Good Morning David, news that the Loonie is down to 71 cents just makes U.S. sourced parts more expensive I guess. I hope it doesn’t affect you and Elin too badly. If you order direct from the U.K. (apart from the longer delay due to shipping), does it make things any cheaper for you?
@@philtucker1224 our dollar is weak against both the us and uk unfortunately…shipping costs are also a killer. We also pay 13% tax on purchases. It’s very expensive to restore a car now. For example, the cage nuts I like for this car….for 12 cage nuts it’s $29 US…that’s $41 Canadian plus shipping of at least another $10. It’s crazy! $50 for 12 cage nuts.
Seems like it would have been easier to fabricate new metal pieces to replace what you cut out, rather than attempting to take apart what was there as you had good templates?
Only had the drivers side.
Elin you must have had insider information so your disqualified 😁
Sorry, you’re.
First
You win a cookie! 🍪
He was probably sitting in your garage when you posted
@@pucman1 I wish.