Great instructional video. I received a Bronica SQ-A for Christmas and felt I was over my head. After watching your video I went out and shot a roll of film. Thank you so much! I am now a confident hybrid photographer!
Thanks for the excellent refresher on how to load up the film. I used to shoot 35mm before digital, but I have only dabbled in medium format over the years.
one tip, the arrow lineup step is VERY important, unlike some, say the Mamiya press 6x9 cm cameras, they red-window advance the film (manual looking at the numbering on the backing paper & advancing manually), This camera (bronica's, Hasselblads, Rollieflex/rolliecords) does the 'blank paper' advance by 'arming' the counter when the insert is inserted into the shell, then the S---1 distance is mechanically measured out (degrees of turning of the winding system); then a 'STOP' is reached, fire the first shot, then the mechanics determine spacing ( allows for diamater of film on spool - advance rate is adjusted automatically); and if the back is in a servicable condition, all works perfectly. HOWEVER quirks exist for cameras, so Read the manual and follow religeously the steps they say, and for electronic film backs (Rollei's, Hasselblad H system, Contax 645) Beware the battery condition, CHECK it, and replace Before loading, as if these die, the advance position is LOST, and the roll is wasted (position is via encoders, and electic counters).
good light meter tutorial, PS the EV mode is good for another modular camera system, the Hasselblad 500 (V-series), their lenses have an EV scale on the bottom of the lens, to shoot this way, you take the EV reading , and set the shutter & apature rings to correspond a red arrow on one, to the EV reading on the other, and for early (C) lenses that's it, just move one, and they are both LOCKED together! {CF/CFI/CFE lenses NEED you to lock the dials together manually, by depressing a button on the apature ring}; then you can't mess up, you choose an apature, the EV step sets exposure for you, like the P/S mode on dslr's, just done mechanically!
@@rohanpradhan5251 the small circle is for fine focusing, you start by getting the focus close by just looking at the focusing screen, then the center part will have a diagonal line that will be split until the image is in perfect focus allowing you to achieve perfect focus without having to squint at the screen.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching this in 2024 in Berlin and this helped my get going with beaten up Bronica SQ - thanks for taking the time to make the video!
Glad it helped. Thank you for watching 😊👍
Great instructional video. I received a Bronica SQ-A for Christmas and felt I was over my head. After watching your video I went out and shot a roll of film. Thank you so much! I am now a confident hybrid photographer!
Thank you for your comment I hope you enjoy shooting your new Broni :)
Nice. Just ordered an old SQ, so refreshing my knowledge after not shooting film for 15 or more years! Good to hear a familiar accent too 🙂
They are great cameras and so much fun to use. Happy shooting!
Thanks for the excellent refresher on how to load up the film. I used to shoot 35mm before digital, but I have only dabbled in medium format over the years.
Thanks for the comment.... Enjoy your experiments with 120 🙂👍
one tip, the arrow lineup step is VERY important, unlike some, say the Mamiya press 6x9 cm cameras, they red-window advance the film (manual looking at the numbering on the backing paper & advancing manually), This camera (bronica's, Hasselblads, Rollieflex/rolliecords) does the 'blank paper' advance by 'arming' the counter when the insert is inserted into the shell, then the S---1 distance is mechanically measured out (degrees of turning of the winding system); then a 'STOP' is reached, fire the first shot, then the mechanics determine spacing ( allows for diamater of film on spool - advance rate is adjusted automatically); and if the back is in a servicable condition, all works perfectly.
HOWEVER quirks exist for cameras, so Read the manual and follow religeously the steps they say, and for electronic film backs (Rollei's, Hasselblad H system, Contax 645) Beware the battery condition, CHECK it, and replace Before loading, as if these die, the advance position is LOST, and the roll is wasted (position is via encoders, and electic counters).
Nicely done, just purchased a Bronica SQAi and your video is excellent!
good light meter tutorial, PS the EV mode is good for another modular camera system, the Hasselblad 500 (V-series), their lenses have an EV scale on the bottom of the lens, to shoot this way, you take the EV reading , and set the shutter & apature rings to correspond a red arrow on one, to the EV reading on the other, and for early (C) lenses that's it, just move one, and they are both LOCKED together! {CF/CFI/CFE lenses NEED you to lock the dials together manually, by depressing a button on the apature ring}; then you can't mess up, you choose an apature, the EV step sets exposure for you, like the P/S mode on dslr's, just done mechanically!
Well presented, thank you.
Great in detph video mate!
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
I am not far from you in Lichfield do you know anyone selling a Bronica SQA body? Thank you
Perfect video! Does that grip/winder have a hot shoe, or a cold shoe?
Hot shoe
Hi Micheal, It has a hot shoe.... we use it to fire the studio strobes with a pocket wizard
how do you aim with this camera. do you focus on the circle in the middle or just look at the general sqaure image if its in focus
the circle will help you with fine focus but if you are just looking at the scene (the square) you will be able to tell if the image is in focus.
Christopher Hill thank you for your reply. what would you use the small circle in the middle for?
@@rohanpradhan5251 the small circle is for fine focusing, you start by getting the focus close by just looking at the focusing screen, then the center part will have a diagonal line that will be split until the image is in perfect focus allowing you to achieve perfect focus without having to squint at the screen.
Setting the iso on the camera back doesn’t do anything unless you’re using a prism finder which will use that information to expose.
I think it is called a Spool not a Spiral...