The Great Debate...Oil! What do you use for motor oil in your antique tractor? The best motor oil to use in your antique tractor. #farmallfanatic #antiquetractors #farmall
I enjoy the working videos with you fixing them up the way you like them and at the same time eliminating issues for later tillage time. Lookin good and it’s nice to see the improvements keep that positive rolling!
Lucas is awesome stuff. We run it in all of our tractors. Makes a big difference. My 1486 that I bought last spring was using about a pint of oil every other day, I put a couple pints of Lucus in it, and now it'll maybe use half a pint a month.
It’s nice to see someone taking care of their tractors like you do. My dad was the way. He would change the oil about 20 hours ahead of time. He said if it’s not red, keep it in the shed . Love the videos. Great job
Hi there from Kentucky. You know my bad ran farmall for years and all I ever knew of him running in his was Valvoline 10W40 never lost a engine that I can remember.. The farmall 200 is still running pulling a hay rake.
Not boring at all. I enjoyed watching you scratch the paint off the drain plugs with the big ole adjustable! I understand Rotella has one of the higher zinc contents which is what those old engines need so good choice.
Any Fresh oil is better than old oil i say. I run rotella 15w40 in my puller wd9. Have royal purple in my propane w9. Sae 30 rotella in most of my older gassers. And 10w30 cheapo brando in my tired H. I try to pull oil pans to desludge when i have time after i bring another’s one home. Worst one i found so far was my mccormick 10-20. Sludge was above the suction screen on oil pump! When in doubt drop your pans!
We run 15W40 in everything older and diesel. My dad has used it in those tractors for 50 years and never had a problem with it. The Shell Rotella T is one of the best.
I personally run rotella 15-40 in everything I have even my snapper lawnmower never had any problems with anything my junky truck I’ve let go 8-10k between oil changes and you pull the stick it’s just as clean as my Dakota I change every 3k you’ll be fine I buy something and change it and run it about 500-1000 and then change it again and start it on the normal cycle I do believe it loosen up the sludge like you said is why I change it so soon the first time I’m also a believer in every man do his own thing so you’ll be fine buddy
I agree, these videos are not boring. I like the idea of having a video to use for the record as well. Great idea as far as I'm concerned. I might have to consider doing the same thing in the future myself. And as for cost effective, it depends on how you look at it. In my opinion, it could turn out to be very cost effective by possibly saving the engine. Especially when it is new to you and you don't know the history of the service record. Keep up the good work. See you in the next one.
Farmalls I just use O'Reilly brand oil and others.. on my big tillage tractor on my 135pto hp case 1270 on duals. Im running 100% all case ih sae30, hytran fluid, coolant, all oil, fuel, and hytran filters, etc..
One of the better oils on the market today is Rotella 15w-40. I use it in all the diesels. 60 series Detroit, old David Brown Tractor, also in my old Massey backhoe(gas). I have been told for the older gas engines it is one of the best oils to use.
I've heard wixs ,Hastings,and Baldwin filters are the best! I run rotella 1540 t 4 in my diesels. Dad believed in 100 hours between oil changes. After yrs of use on his 5020 John Deere he had it over hauled. I made comment to are mechanic about dad's 100 hour oil change. His comment was. It showed we put standard inserts back in the crank.
Worth while to change the filter a little early if you are worried about sludge. I agree with all you are doing. Tool box I would do it on the frame or we had the one on the H mounted on the PTO cover. Dad was short and didn't like to reach up that high by the lights.
I really respect your honesty about your “Red Power “ fanaticism. I’m almost the same as my old Cockshutt tractors. We had a poor dealership in our area hence there’s not many around. As you probably figured out I’m up in western Canada 🇨🇦
Cockshutt guy here, too-from Ontario. I’ve actually been to the property in Brantford where the Cockshutt headquarters/factory was; only thing left was the office and warehouse. It was damaged in a fire a few years later and is now gone, unfortunately, but I think they took the big stone nameplate that was above the door to a museum or something. I also run 15W40 in my tractor instead of straight 30.
I also use the Shell Rotella oil. T0 SAE30 for my basic equipment like the lawn mower and what not. And either T4 or T5 in my tractor, depending on what I can get at the time. This oil change is T5 10w-40, which is all I could get.
Excellent video Gino :) also never boring on matinne your tractor and machinery helps lots others fiix there too or need help on! Plus make Red Power Boom 💥 forever too and last long time ! Plus always can ask you for assistance in there to and other stuff what buy too if not and before starting work them ! Plus ordering parts to and not buy too!
I'm with you on the rotella 15/40 and a little bit of Lucas I also put some Lucas in the transmission and rear ends tends to quiet them down even use rotella 15/40 in my 1800 Honda wing trike that I have because there transmission runs in same gearcase as the engine on the gold wings
Love me some cow tales. As much as Steiner is higher on stuff than evilbay every once in a while I do my best to give them my business. Can't forget alstates ag parts as well. And as far as rotella goes. It's got all the vitamins an such that old engines need. It goes into everything I own pretty much. An smta is definitely on my bucket list
In the past ive ruined a few engines because the detergent oil turned loose the sludge and clogged the screen on the oil pump. A oil pan gasket is not expensive so we now pull the pan of every new to us engine we get.
Your videos are great. It makes do some thinking. Learning all the time. Some times change my opinion. I head to your videos before anything else. I think you'll love that MTA. It's in the right hands.
I just changed my 886 oil and filters and I also use the T4, 15w-40w. That 886 takes 12 quarts. I saw that Sam's sell a case of T4 (6 gallons) for $99.98. That is $16.66 a gallon and Tractor supply is $21.99 a gallon. Walmart around here did not have the T4 in stock.
when we were farming 200 acres with the H and the AC D15 we changed oil on the 1st of each month. from april thru dec. we did nothing over the winter so the last oil change was Dec 1st and we lubed everything.
We run SAE 30 low ash in the gas tractors and #1 SAE 30 in the diesels. Typically change oil once a year whether the engine is up to the change hours. Our IH656 utility w/Dunham 22 loader gets used for moving round bales, loading manure, etc. With more stop/start cycles, oil seems to get dirtier than field use tractors IH 656 Farmall and Case 1030 that are under a load. Always thought winter is tough on engines with more potential condensation.
T4 is a good oil and the ZDDP count is good for those older flat tappet motors. That motor has likely been rebuilt at least once if not a few times. Take a look at your pedals. See how much of the diamonds are worn off. That will give you an idea of how much use she has. The only issue I have with T4 is particularly in colder weather (grew up near Centerville so I know your climate) is it won’t flow as well on a cold day as say a 10-40.
The old oil debate. I know a lot of guys using rotella in farmalls. Besides that, all the new diesel engine oils are now low. Ash. IH was way ahead. Just took everyone else 60 years to catch up lol. FYI the Walmart supertech is actually a decent oil and it's supplied by Warren oil. Warren oil does supply AGCO for a lot of their own oils. I'm not a fan of Walmart but did try there 30 weight oils and had fairly good luck with them. But I also do testing to oil every change.
you should leave the generator on there put an adj regulator set it to 14v you can also run + or - ground it works great and it still looks original no need for alt and brackets
Well I can tell you.. I had to take a flashlight and really look up under the hood to even see it.. so looking original doesn't really factor in on this to me
Long stroke gasoline engines of that time period specify low ash high zinc oil. CaseIH if you can find it or you can order John Deere 30wt. Torq Gard off of Amazon.
In my oil notes I read that the T4 was the Rotella for flat tappits? Is it good out the bottle or do you still need to add zinc? Based on Project Farm’s video, I put a bottle of Restore Engine Restorer in when I last changed oil on our 756.
@@QuietRiverBear The 15 -40 diesel oil has zinc in it. My take is if you use good oil you dont need additives. We just got a long time sleeping Zombie C Farmall running. We pulled both the oil pan and valve cover. We have video of it on out channel.
I just changed the oil in my M at the end of last week and was wondering about how many guys have run Lucas. I'm sure there will be an overhaul in my future, but it's not really high on the list of priorities right now. Sometimes you just have to do what you can to get by.
I would not use Rotella in a non diesel engine of any kind. You can cut carbon loose and start one to drinking. I would use a top rated 15 40. On a fresh rebuild Rotella is fine. My experience only
We got a 06 silverado with about 200,000 miles. the guy before us used 5w30 mobil 1. and the 6.0 was drinking oil. pulled the pan cleaned a small amount of goo out. and changed to 15w 40 rotella. it now has better oil pressure and doesnt use any oil if you change it at 5000 miles.
Oh boy we’re opening up a can of worms in this episode. Nothing wrong with being cautious with your oil. We run rotella and Napa brand oils. You’ll be pretty happy after a few oil changes with how clean the oil is even after 100 hours!
@@FarmallFanatic a lot of the older spec oils are getting harder to find nowadays. Glad to see the MTA getting some TLC, and I can’t wait to see it out in the field!
I was told by my Rotella oil salesman that all the oil with a...T... on the label " IS LOW ASH OIL ".so you can rest easy..I like to use 10W30 in my tractors. Although my 400 I should use a heavy oil because it doesn't have a lot of oil pressure.
I always liked to run the delo 15/40 in my m and super c but being here in crazy California try buying 15/40 in the state I have a heck of a time trying to find 10w40 any more
We always tell folks to use what the manufacturer calls for! They engineered it to run on certain weights and oil additive contents! We see guys say they use 15/40 Rotella etc and chances are they’re not doing extensive field work with it!
My McCormick Super WD diesel has a dipstick. I would have to look at my Farmall M and Super M diesels to see if they have dipstick. I'm pretty sure my SMTA gas is level petcocks and 400 gas is dipstick.
Curious if the Farmall cub. There is a grinding when in reverse. Could it be that that fluid is low. Saw a video on how to check that, without pulling the drain plug?
NEW TO RED POWER CLUB ARE YOU GOING TO RED POWER IN G.I. NE ? HEY HOWS ABOUT A VIDEO ON THE DIFFERECES BETWEEN AN M FARMALL/,SUPER M,/ SUPER MTA,/ AND A 400 WILL THE PARTS INTER CHANGE . WOULD REALLY WOULD LIKE TO KNOW. RED POWER HAPPY .GREAT VIDS THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR
Super. It is part of the Super which typically featured larger engines and disc brakes Super A (1948-54) (had neither a larger engine nor disc brakes, but featured an improved hydraulic lift system, and other little improvements. Larger engines were found the last Super As often known as Super A-1s also built only in 1954) Super C (1951-54) Super H (1953-54) Super W-4 (1953-54) Super M and MD (1952-54) Super MTA (1954) (Available in gas, diesel, and LP) Super W-6 and WD-6 (1952-54) Super W6-TA (1954) (Available in gas, diesel, and LP) Super WD-9 and WDR-9 (1953-56) (Only available in diesel. There was a WR9S gas tractor built in the same time period, which was a rice tractor, and it had the same C-335 that a W-9 has)
@@FarmallFanatic it won’t hurt it ! 2 minutes on cold start…drain the oil you just put in, save it flush put it oil back. Work it for day….RENSE AND REPEAP 🤫
I enjoy the working videos with you fixing them up the way you like them and at the same time eliminating issues for later tillage time. Lookin good and it’s nice to see the improvements keep that positive rolling!
I don't find oil change videos boring. You can't stress enough proper maintenance.
I learn something new and useful on each one.
Don't change the oil òn a M not worth effort.
@@colinvoss8484 They've been around since 1939 and are still in service today. I'd say they are more than worth the effort.
Lucas is awesome stuff. We run it in all of our tractors. Makes a big difference. My 1486 that I bought last spring was using about a pint of oil every other day, I put a couple pints of Lucus in it, and now it'll maybe use half a pint a month.
Yeah it's a game changer
It’s nice to see someone taking care of their tractors like you do. My dad was the way. He would change the oil about 20 hours ahead of time. He said if it’s not red, keep it in the shed . Love the videos. Great job
Hi there from Kentucky. You know my bad ran farmall for years and all I ever knew of him running in his was Valvoline 10W40 never lost a engine that I can remember.. The farmall 200 is still running pulling a hay rake.
We used to use the 10w40 valvoline. however they removed the zinc . So everything get rotellat now
Not boring at all. I enjoyed watching you scratch the paint off the drain plugs with the big ole adjustable!
I understand Rotella has one of the higher zinc contents which is what those old engines need so good choice.
And it ended up being low ash
Any Fresh oil is better than old oil i say. I run rotella 15w40 in my puller wd9. Have royal purple in my propane w9. Sae 30 rotella in most of my older gassers. And 10w30 cheapo brando in my tired H. I try to pull oil pans to desludge when i have time after i bring another’s one home. Worst one i found so far was my mccormick 10-20. Sludge was above the suction screen on oil pump! When in doubt drop your pans!
We run 15W40 in everything older and diesel. My dad has used it in those tractors for 50 years and never had a problem with it. The Shell Rotella T is one of the best.
Good to know
I personally run rotella 15-40 in everything I have even my snapper lawnmower never had any problems with anything my junky truck I’ve let go 8-10k between oil changes and you pull the stick it’s just as clean as my Dakota I change every 3k you’ll be fine I buy something and change it and run it about 500-1000 and then change it again and start it on the normal cycle I do believe it loosen up the sludge like you said is why I change it so soon the first time
I’m also a believer in every man do his own thing so you’ll be fine buddy
That's pretty much how I see it
As an old tractor mechanic once said to me 🙄 the cheapest mechanic in the world is good quality oil 👌 good video Red Power 💥
I agree, these videos are not boring. I like the idea of having a video to use for the record as well. Great idea as far as I'm concerned. I might have to consider doing the same thing in the future myself. And as for cost effective, it depends on how you look at it. In my opinion, it could turn out to be very cost effective by possibly saving the engine. Especially when it is new to you and you don't know the history of the service record. Keep up the good work. See you in the next one.
Farmalls I just use O'Reilly brand oil and others.. on my big tillage tractor on my 135pto hp case 1270 on duals. Im running 100% all case ih sae30, hytran fluid, coolant, all oil, fuel, and hytran filters, etc..
Great minds think alike we have used Shell Rotella oil in our tractors for over 40 years! Glad to see how well you care for equipment!
Lucas last 12 yrs in every oil hole in all our 36 Farmall .
Makes every gear and bearing slippy and never run dry 👍👍👍
It's really good stuff
Keep sending information, I have an MTA that I purchased with single cylinder hydraulics. Your vid’s help me a lot. Thanks Jeff
This Rotella T4 is low ash
One of the better oils on the market today is Rotella 15w-40. I use it in all the diesels. 60 series Detroit, old David Brown Tractor, also in my old Massey backhoe(gas). I have been told for the older gas engines it is one of the best oils to use.
I think so too
I agree We ran it in the semi trucks. And a some engines ran over a million miles before they needed a Major. We use itin everything we have.
I've heard wixs ,Hastings,and Baldwin filters are the best! I run rotella 1540 t 4 in my diesels. Dad believed in 100 hours between oil changes. After yrs of use on his 5020 John Deere he had it over hauled. I made comment to are mechanic about dad's 100 hour oil change. His comment was. It showed we put standard inserts back in the crank.
Worth while to change the filter a little early if you are worried about sludge. I agree with all you are doing. Tool box I would do it on the frame or we had the one on the H mounted on the PTO cover. Dad was short and didn't like to reach up that high by the lights.
I kinda want to go original on this tractor
I really respect your honesty about your “Red Power “ fanaticism.
I’m almost the same as my old Cockshutt tractors. We had a poor dealership in our area hence there’s not many around.
As you probably figured out I’m up in western Canada 🇨🇦
We have a lot of fans down here
Cockshutt guy here, too-from Ontario. I’ve actually been to the property in Brantford where the Cockshutt headquarters/factory was; only thing left was the office and warehouse. It was damaged in a fire a few years later and is now gone, unfortunately, but I think they took the big stone nameplate that was above the door to a museum or something.
I also run 15W40 in my tractor instead of straight 30.
I always use Lucas motor oil treatment for years in all of my vehicals. Never had a problem.
I use Shell Rotella T 15W40 in a lot of tractors. Lucas on occasion.
I also use the Shell Rotella oil. T0 SAE30 for my basic equipment like the lawn mower and what not. And either T4 or T5 in my tractor, depending on what I can get at the time. This oil change is T5 10w-40, which is all I could get.
I've had great luck with Rotella 15w40, Valvoline 15w40, and Napa 15w40.
I like valvoline
The Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40 has been my go-to mostly.
Nice job, keeping on top of things!
The struggle is real
I have a 1965 International cub Cadet 102 and I run Lucas in it now grant it is just a garden tractor but still it is an IH.
Agree
I like the maintenance and repair videos too. My videos are usually weeks behind LOL
They were pretty well for me as a record l o l
good job and yes Lucas is good to add to worn stuff makes it last longer in my opinion
Excellent video Gino :) also never boring on matinne your tractor and machinery helps lots others fiix there too or need help on! Plus make Red Power Boom 💥 forever too and last long time ! Plus always can ask you for assistance in there to and other stuff what buy too if not and before starting work them ! Plus ordering parts to and not buy too!
I'm with you on the rotella 15/40 and a little bit of Lucas I also put some Lucas in the transmission and rear ends tends to quiet them down even use rotella 15/40 in my 1800 Honda wing trike that I have because there transmission runs in same gearcase as the engine on the gold wings
Love me some cow tales. As much as Steiner is higher on stuff than evilbay every once in a while I do my best to give them my business. Can't forget alstates ag parts as well. And as far as rotella goes. It's got all the vitamins an such that old engines need. It goes into everything I own pretty much. An smta is definitely on my bucket list
I buy off all of them that you mentioned
If you are worried , drop the sump and clean it like new !!
In the past ive ruined a few engines because the detergent oil turned loose the sludge and clogged the screen on the oil pump. A oil pan gasket is not expensive so we now pull the pan of every new to us engine we get.
Your videos are great. It makes do some thinking. Learning all the time. Some times change my opinion. I head to your videos before anything else. I think you'll love that MTA. It's in the right hands.
I can't wait to get it right
@@FarmallFanatic I bet.
I just changed my 886 oil and filters and I also use the T4, 15w-40w. That 886 takes 12 quarts. I saw that Sam's sell a case of T4 (6 gallons) for $99.98. That is $16.66 a gallon and Tractor supply is $21.99 a gallon. Walmart around here did not have the T4 in stock.
I thought about getting a membership to sam's
when we were farming 200 acres with the H and the AC D15 we changed oil on the 1st of each month. from april thru dec. we did nothing over the winter so the last oil change was Dec 1st and we lubed everything.
makes perfect sense to me
Its a good video and I like everything you do on the red power .
Thank you so much .
God bless
Good job on video red power
Love your humor 🤣 😆
Im a firm beleiver in baldwin filters and schaffers or rotella 15w-40 in everything i own. Had nothing but luck in pickups, tractors, lawnmowers etc.
We run SAE 30 low ash in the gas tractors and #1 SAE 30 in the diesels. Typically change oil once a year whether the engine is up to the change hours. Our IH656 utility w/Dunham 22 loader gets used for moving round bales, loading manure, etc. With more stop/start cycles, oil seems to get dirtier than field use tractors IH 656 Farmall and Case 1030 that are under a load. Always thought winter is tough on engines with more potential condensation.
Yeah winter is pretty hard on engines
That’s what I’ve been running in all ours for years.
Great video Farmall! The u bolts on the SMTA for the light bar are on backwards. Easy fix to put the toolbox on
They are not on backwards.. those are not u-bolts at all, but I did order some
@@FarmallFanatic gotcha! Hopefully you get them and on soon!
@@geneguenther4325 They had one standard economy shipping so i'm thinking friday
Sure could use that cut out,saved my manafold with a 2" pipe tap.😅
I've run all brands of oil and I found mobile cleans an old motor the best
ur rite,ounce u work it a little by changing oil again soon u will get rid of a lot of sludge
Good day FF Yes the SM with that white sticker show off better than 400.
But I still like 400 tin work. Thanks
There might be a four hundred in an upcoming video soon
5:52 agreed fram filters are no good Quaker state is also junk it leaves a 1/4 inch thick layer of crap all over the inside of your motor
T4 is a good oil and the ZDDP count is good for those older flat tappet motors. That motor has likely been rebuilt at least once if not a few times. Take a look at your pedals. See how much of the diamonds are worn off. That will give you an idea of how much use she has.
The only issue I have with T4 is particularly in colder weather (grew up near Centerville so I know your climate) is it won’t flow as well on a cold day as say a 10-40.
That is the one thing I did consider but I just don't drive these in the winter
Thought I was on the grumpy farmer channel for a second, great video, love the new to you smta!
Lol...now that's a first
The old oil debate. I know a lot of guys using rotella in farmalls. Besides that, all the new diesel engine oils are now low. Ash. IH was way ahead. Just took everyone else 60 years to catch up lol. FYI the Walmart supertech is actually a decent oil and it's supplied by Warren oil. Warren oil does supply AGCO for a lot of their own oils. I'm not a fan of Walmart but did try there 30 weight oils and had fairly good luck with them. But I also do testing to oil every change.
Pretty much lol
Good job
you should leave the generator on there put an adj regulator set it to 14v you can also run + or - ground it works great and it still looks original no need for alt and brackets
Well I can tell you.. I had to take a flashlight and really look up under the hood to even see it.. so looking original doesn't really factor in on this to me
Long stroke gasoline engines of that time period specify low ash high zinc oil. CaseIH if you can find it or you can order John Deere 30wt. Torq Gard off of Amazon.
This Rotella is low ash
@@FarmallFanatic Sweet! It's hard to tell though I don't think they put it on the label. I like Rotella a lot!
Hello Gino enjoyed your video. For me 10w30 what I'd use gas engine. Have a good day.
With our hot summers I like a little thicker oil
Rotella T4 15-40 in everything
.. saw 30w low ash IH oil available on-line, but figure you like the stuff in your hands locally when the mood strikes...
I simply pull the pan and clean it on every tractor We get. Then use 15 -40 shell rotellat. you need Zinc with a flat tappet cam.
That's really the thing to do
In my oil notes I read that the T4 was the Rotella for flat tappits? Is it good out the bottle or do you still need to add zinc? Based on Project Farm’s video, I put a bottle of Restore Engine Restorer in when I last changed oil on our 756.
@@QuietRiverBear The 15 -40 diesel oil has zinc in it. My take is if you use good oil you dont need additives. We just got a long time sleeping Zombie C Farmall running. We pulled both the oil pan and valve cover. We have video of it on out channel.
Would you ever consider using a flushing oil to get rid of all the sludge and then using new oil?
I think I'd rather do an overhaul that stuff scares me
That’s the same oil I run in my 1944 farmall h
I just changed the oil in my M at the end of last week and was wondering about how many guys have run Lucas. I'm sure there will be an overhaul in my future, but it's not really high on the list of priorities right now. Sometimes you just have to do what you can to get by.
Oh I agree i've ran tractors for twenty years that needed overhauled
I would not use Rotella in a non diesel engine of any kind. You can cut carbon loose and start one to drinking. I would use a top rated 15 40. On a fresh rebuild Rotella is fine. My experience only
I am not against doing an overhaul on this engine at all
We got a 06 silverado with about 200,000 miles. the guy before us used 5w30 mobil 1. and the 6.0 was drinking oil. pulled the pan cleaned a small amount of goo out. and changed to 15w 40 rotella. it now has better oil pressure and doesnt use any oil if you change it at 5000 miles.
Yes indeed JC Whitney made a fortune selling engine overhaul in a can
Never had any luck with autolites we run champion D21’s in all of ours.
See where i've never had any luck with champions
@@FarmallFanatic I've got a twenty year old lawn mower engine (Briggs) that still has the original factory Champion plug in it!
Yeah I don’t blame ya it should be all original. Buddy
Oh boy we’re opening up a can of worms in this episode. Nothing wrong with being cautious with your oil. We run rotella and Napa brand oils. You’ll be pretty happy after a few oil changes with how clean the oil is even after 100 hours!
I would have used the low ash if I could have found it... But this has always been my second go to
@@FarmallFanatic a lot of the older spec oils are getting harder to find nowadays. Glad to see the MTA getting some TLC, and I can’t wait to see it out in the field!
@@jasonwhitler4167 I'm taking my time getting it there I really want it right
Gotta love those Cowtails!!
I'm not really a carmel fan but boy I do to eat these like I breathe air
@Farmall Fanatic when I see the Steiner package arrive,I look forward to the parts..but that little candy package really gets my attention!!!
Fire it up 💪🏼❤️, Fire it up 💪🏼❤️
Fire it up 💪🏼❤️
You should be proud to run that oil. Its only the best.
Right
Oil and grease is the life of your tractor
Yep
I was told by my Rotella oil salesman that all the oil with a...T... on the label " IS LOW ASH OIL ".so you can rest easy..I like to use 10W30 in my tractors. Although my 400 I should use a heavy oil because it doesn't have a lot of oil pressure.
I'm going to look at a four hundred diesel this weekend
@@FarmallFanatic the four cylinder diesels are really cool, but I'm afraid to own one. Not any people in the area left that know how to work on them.
@@hturbo1007 I can figure them out if I can find parts
@@FarmallFanatic Pete Larson rebuilt one..he will have info for you.
I always liked to run the delo 15/40 in my m and super c but being here in crazy California try buying 15/40 in the state I have a heck of a time trying to find 10w40 any more
Yeah that don't sound fun
We always tell folks to use what the manufacturer calls for! They engineered it to run on certain weights and oil additive contents! We see guys say they use 15/40 Rotella etc and chances are they’re not doing extensive field work with it!
True
After an overhaul is the time to change oils
@@FarmallFanatic oh yeah once you overhaul go for it
trucking industry and oil industry use balwin filters. they are quality
What kind of oil should i put in my farmall m that's been sitting for 30 years outside.
Low ash 30 weight
You need a bigger ( Mexican ) speed wrench! LOL. LOOKING REALMGOOD!
Hey where do u get your parts for it that tractor I just bought a super m from my uncle and want to fix it up and make look like new
About ten online sites
Black oil is good glad its not a milk shake oil
True
Clean oil 30 weight shell
How do you keep track of your hours with no hour meters
Simple... I use each tractor about 50 hours a year or less. It's not really hard to add those numbers up
while you are changing the plugs do a compression test.
Do you think there is a problem
Compression test would be a good indicator of engine health.
Hope those manifold bolts come loose for ya. Sometimes those can be a bear
I use a stud puller
Shouldn't that have a dip stick as opposed to the petcocks
Nope that came the following year
My McCormick Super WD diesel has a dipstick. I would have to look at my Farmall M and Super M diesels to see if they have dipstick. I'm pretty sure my SMTA gas is level petcocks and 400 gas is dipstick.
Curious if the Farmall cub. There is a grinding when in reverse. Could it be that that fluid is low. Saw a video on how to check that, without pulling the drain plug?
As you face the rear of the tractor down on the left side inside the drivewheel. There is a level plug pull that
NEW TO RED POWER CLUB ARE YOU GOING TO RED POWER IN G.I. NE ? HEY HOWS ABOUT A VIDEO ON THE DIFFERECES BETWEEN AN M FARMALL/,SUPER M,/ SUPER MTA,/ AND A 400 WILL THE PARTS INTER CHANGE . WOULD REALLY WOULD LIKE TO KNOW. RED POWER HAPPY .GREAT VIDS THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR
Yes some parts definitely interchange
Have you ever tried Motorkote?
No
I overhauled my oil pump on the 504 C153 , now my oil pressure is up to 50 lbs cold and 25 hot at idel. Do you think thats good enough ?
I always used to say one pound of oil pressure per horse power... But really that's not accurate... yes that is okay
What size was the oil filter
I'm not sure I usually show that in the video
When are u going to build a pole barn?
Pretty soon
U need one! 40+60
@@ryanduren2739 No arguing here
That fan cowling supposed to be painted BLACK 😮
Yep
Rebuild the generator no alternator.
Why change to alternator if generator works?
It's not working like it should
Fords new eco diesel uses 30w low ash oil
Thanks for the heads up
How many hours does the hour meter show? Curiosity.
Like 114 lol
Farmall Fanatic boring? Nope! 👍
😆
Is there a difference in the size of the gas tank between a MTA and a M or super M
All that you mentioned are twenty one gallon tanks
Looks like the MTA needs some minor mechanical work...
Yep
What does the S stand for in SMTA
Super
Super. It is part of the Super which typically featured larger engines and disc brakes
Super A (1948-54) (had neither a larger engine nor disc brakes, but featured an improved hydraulic lift system, and other little improvements. Larger engines were found the last Super As often known as Super A-1s also built only in 1954)
Super C (1951-54)
Super H (1953-54)
Super W-4 (1953-54)
Super M and MD (1952-54)
Super MTA (1954) (Available in gas, diesel, and LP)
Super W-6 and WD-6 (1952-54)
Super W6-TA (1954) (Available in gas, diesel, and LP)
Super WD-9 and WDR-9 (1953-56) (Only available in diesel. There was a WR9S gas tractor built in the same time period, which was a rice tractor, and it had the same C-335 that a W-9 has)
No can do😂😂😂
Lol
Do it right flush with diesel fuel first 😮
I don't have the guts to do it
@@FarmallFanatic it won’t hurt it ! 2 minutes on cold start…drain the oil you just put in, save it flush put it oil back. Work it for day….RENSE AND REPEAP 🤫
Now all the low ash 30w whiners can whine... do they need some wisconsin cheese for that whine?
Ahahahahahahaha
Nothing wrong with them