I’ve used this SharkBites products. I’m not so impressed. Specially if you’re using it behind the walls like your bathroom valves. It’s ok if the pipes you’re using is exposed, otherwise no, I don’t recommended.
This video lacks the proper method of dressing out the pipe end. Practically anyone can Plug-n-Play. A standard pipe cutter leaves a burr that needs to be de-burred and the older the tool, quite often the duller the cut. Any corrosion on a pre-existing pipe installation also compromises an otherwise sealed pipe. Will these work on 40-year-old copper plumbing? Transitions to PVC Schedule 40 plastic pipe may also require a "grounding jumper" to re-acquire a correct grounding bond for the electrical connection. I would not consider this a building code item if it compromises electrical bonding. The last story I read that people ignored bonding was during the Gulf Wars. Locals in Iraq were hired by Halliburton to wire hot water tanks and soldiers were getting electrocuted while taking showers. I haven't worked on plumbing in 20 years so these replacements seem of good quality and I recently purchased two for a laundry tub. They are pricey in hardware stores these days but weighing that against solder, propane torches, sanding and flux makes them quite desirable.
Nice video that does not show 90% of what you need to know about these valves. First, deburring is essential as the copper pipe is going against an O-ring that is easily cut or nicked which will cause leaks. Second, it is not recommended to reuse the valve after removing the pipe as the O-ring inside may have gotten damaged during the removal process. These valves should only be used as a temporary fix and an areas that are easily accessible. Did not use them behind walls. As with anything, convenience has its drawbacks.
This video shows exactly what the title says: how to install a sharkbite slip ball valve. I appreciate that this is a 3 minute video that narrowly covers the topic I searched for, as opposed to a 15 minute plumbing 101 video that covers deburring and prepping and plumbing best practices.
Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure. Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe. Close the MAIN water supply valve. 1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket. 2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3. 3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe. 4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3. 5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch. Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch. 6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something. 7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe). Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3). 8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe. 9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal. 10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you. Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3. IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle. NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not. If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.
I think this guy is every plumbers dream as he doesn’t give you the information needed to do the job right hence having to call a real plumber to fix it correctly.
Problem with these is that it's very difficult to slip it onto the 2nd pipe due to the shitty removal tool. Good luck ever trying to remove it cause then your battling pressing in opposite directions on both ends. Had to remove one cause it was leaking and it was a nightmare. Had to cut the pipe instead.
Хобби
I've installed hundreds and never had a problem as long as you do it right. 😊
🧢🧢🧢🧢🧢🧢🧢🧢🧢
Great Video. It contains all the info I needed to get it done.
Glad it helped
Thank you for sharing this great information
Good video
It gonna be very hard and i think impossible for already connected pipe which doesnt have space to move,
Water tank installs in 36 minutes flat 2000 bucks lolove these
is it safe enough to put shrkbite on the main line coming form the city or need soldering one?
Soldering it's better.
Can this valve be installed on hot water copper pipe?
I've done it, been 10 yrs. years or so.
Good
I’ve used this SharkBites products. I’m not so impressed. Specially if you’re using it behind the walls like your bathroom valves. It’s ok if the pipes you’re using is exposed, otherwise no, I don’t recommended.
No professional would put a shark bite behind a wall.
A sharkbite in an easily accessible, open area, why not?
This video lacks the proper method of dressing out the pipe end. Practically anyone can Plug-n-Play. A standard pipe cutter leaves a burr that needs to be de-burred and the older the tool, quite often the duller the cut. Any corrosion on a pre-existing pipe installation also compromises an otherwise sealed pipe. Will these work on 40-year-old copper plumbing? Transitions to PVC Schedule 40 plastic pipe may also require a "grounding jumper" to re-acquire a correct grounding bond for the electrical connection. I would not consider this a building code item if it compromises electrical bonding.
The last story I read that people ignored bonding was during the Gulf Wars. Locals in Iraq were hired by Halliburton to wire hot water tanks and soldiers were getting electrocuted while taking showers. I haven't worked on plumbing in 20 years so these replacements seem of good quality and I recently purchased two for a laundry tub. They are pricey in hardware stores these days but weighing that against solder, propane torches, sanding and flux makes them quite desirable.
You're right about cleaning the outside of the pipe and deburring in and out. Works fine with old piping if it is cleaned and not deformed.
Nice video that does not show 90% of what you need to know about these valves. First, deburring is essential as the copper pipe is going against an O-ring that is easily cut or nicked which will cause leaks. Second, it is not recommended to reuse the valve after removing the pipe as the O-ring inside may have gotten damaged during the removal process. These valves should only be used as a temporary fix and an areas that are easily accessible. Did not use them behind walls. As with anything, convenience has its drawbacks.
This video shows exactly what the title says: how to install a sharkbite slip ball valve.
I appreciate that this is a 3 minute video that narrowly covers the topic I searched for, as opposed to a 15 minute plumbing 101 video that covers deburring and prepping and plumbing best practices.
They're not a temporary fix and meet code in many, if not most states for water heater installs.
You also did not explain how much pipe you should cut out.
Luckily none on RUclips tells that
Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure.
Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe.
Close the MAIN water supply valve.
1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket.
2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3.
3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe.
4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3.
5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch.
Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch.
6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something.
7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe).
Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3).
8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe.
9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal.
10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you.
Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3.
IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle.
NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not.
If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.
I think this guy is every plumbers dream as he doesn’t give you the information needed to do the job right hence having to call a real plumber to fix it correctly.
DONT DO IT COMING FROM AN ACTUAL PLUMBER!!!
You e never used shark bite
@@ProfessionalDad I don’t use shark bites I’d rather just do it the correct way 💯
@@theredvillage5773 I've never had a problem. Some people are just scared of change
@@ProfessionalDad it’s a quick way and way more expensive then just doing it the proper way. They fail they leak and then you have a bigger problem.
@@theredvillage5773 Like all those all old frozen gate valves in my current plumbing soldered in the "proper way".
I think the best way to use them is by placing them in the trash so as not to cause thousands of dollars in water damage.
Terrible explanation, I think he is working for plumbers to confuse DIY people.
Problem with these is that it's very difficult to slip it onto the 2nd pipe due to the shitty removal tool. Good luck ever trying to remove it cause then your battling pressing in opposite directions on both ends. Had to remove one cause it was leaking and it was a nightmare. Had to cut the pipe instead.
They aren't the easiest to remove, but there are better tools out there for the job.