Thank you for that. I always thought so but neither the service or owners manual says. Plus I wonder if that's the difference in the two measurements? 30mm-40mm from the service manual on the stand; 20mm-30mm from the owners manual WOW weight on wheels? Just a thought. I appreciate your comment and will pin it so others can read it.
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield - Yes, it may well account for the discrepancy, but it would be good to have it clarified by RE. The service manual is reported to have has many errors. I set chain slack at 20-30mm with bike on a paddock stand, which (from the perspective of chain tension) is equivalent to bike having its weight on the rear wheel.
Yes can be about 5mm out on center stand.Paddock stand is the best tool for this job.Also using side stand with blocks under side stand to almost level & check chain slack this way if no paddock stand available.A paddock stand is a great tool for Motorcycles.
Its not just the chain tension. I myself noticed change in markings on the right hand side adjuster when bike was in center stand vs on the ground. On the stand no matter how much I tighten the bolt the axle stopped adjusting at a point
Ohhh, where in Arizona? I used to live on the north side of PHX just south of Deer Valley airport. What Royal Enfield to you have and where did you get it from? I got mine from GOAZ in Peoria. I would love to see it. Please let me know as soon as you post a RUclips walk around of your machine. Thank you for watching and especially the comment. I JUST posted a short video of my rainy day today 🥓🏍🏕
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield Hi, I'm in Kingman. Picked up a New Continental GT. Over at SoCal motorcycles in Brea. They have a hell of a sale going on. $4900 for a new Continental. I bought a GT for $5400 and no dealer fees!
@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield initially I was going to buy the standard Intercepter in blue for $4900. But he had a Red GT next to it for $5400 which is what I bought. No dealer fees, just tax and license. They bought 60 RE from the distributor to get the price break. Sorry, I'm 70 years old and don't do RUclips. But I still ride occasionally!
Great instructive video on the steering stem adjustment - just recently I checked mine and went through the example same steps. The only extra step I did was after a short drive - to do a final torque check. It's more of a habit to me to let everything settle for a bit and then check the torque again. I never encountered any torque loss from settling on the Interceptor, but id encounter it on other bikes I owned, hence it is kinda "baked in" in my maintenance approach 🙂
the chain's play should be checked on entire circumference . And: the chain's play should be checked , without stand , and with you on the bike , because your weight lower the bike and then reduces the chain's play . For the correct chain's play setting : you on the bike , and a friend that checks the play . 20- 30 mm of chain's play 're with you on the bike . Have a nice day.
Thank you for sharing that and hope others see your comment. Over 20,000 miles now on a belt drive conversion. No more chain hassle or mess. I'm a happy camper. Thank you for watching.
It helps, but also make sure your rear wheel is aligned with the front wheel, they need to be going in the same direction , not fighting each other. Also front wheel is balanced with equal amount of weights on both sides, not all on one side. Thank you so much for watching & commenting. Sorry it took so long to reply. Been riding a lot.
Thank you for the comment. My owner's manual says, "The drive chain free play is 20 mm to 30 mm." In the video, at 10:11 you can see the service manual calling out for the same. Check it about halfway down where you would see the most free play. I JUST added a video to my Maintenance Playlist for you from Royal Enfield that shows adjusting the chain. It's for the 350 so the numbers and tools are different, but the procedure is the same. "Marking for middle section" you may be looking at the cutout for a flat spot for the attach bolt to rest on?? Please let me know if that helps or confuses you more :-))
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield Yes Brother, Owners manual and Factory manual contradict each other in mm. I asked local RE ASC ls but they too don't have any idea. If you set 20_30 mm then it will buzz on footpeg with rear pillion and luggage. I think 30_40 mm is for main stand and 20_30 with bike weight. There is slight cut in rubber plastic above chain, may be indication to point out center point of chain. Thanks for your reply. I am one of the admin of very fruitful what's app platform of Group Veteran Riders, Admins of Motorcycle clubs, RUclips Influencers, Brand Representatives across India. It would be my pleasure to have you there. Cheers 🥂
@@ridinghightidesindia6847 Also for information there is, Royal Enfield Owners Forum and Classic Motor Works has Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum.
No and Yes. 😉 The service has you setting the torque at: "• Locate Allen socket on stem nut (M12) (a) and tighten gently. 10 mm Allen socket with Ratchet Torque 8 N-m/0.8 kgf-m". My brother "Bones" with Pro Circuit is a suspension specialist, says put the bike on a stand so the front wheel is off the ground and torque until, when you lightly push the handlebars, they don't keep going and fall through to the stop. There should be a slight drag on them. Manual has you replacing the fork oil at 37,000 miles so I rode to my brother's house and we went ahead and overhauled the forks. Replaced the fork bushings, piston rings, seals, and the steering stem races and bearings. I had no problems, it's just what my brother and I do. Thank you for watching and I really appreciate the comment.
Hi, I have an Interceptor and a annoying sound that comes from the direction. This sound comes when I go through potholes. I try to adjust the stem nut without a torchymeter. Is it very very important to use the torchymeter??? Really cool your channel Greetings
Wow thank you so much for watching and especially the kind words. My brother was a Pro Circuit suspension specialist and taught me how to tighten the stem nut with out a torque wrench. With the nose wheel off the ground move the handlebars gently with one finger and when you let go the bars should stop. Not freeze immediately, but should firmly stop. Most bikes, mine included, have more drag in one direction than the other because of the control cables & wiring. That's normal. Mine has drag to the right but to the left, before I tightened it, would fall through to the stop with just a slight tap of my finger. You don't want that. I've had to tighten mine 3 times now as the bearings wear in. The stem nut would have to be extremely loose to cause a noise. The noise might be your front brakes. They are designed to be loose & float on the rotor. When I hit certain bumps I hear a clunk forward of me. First I suspected the steering stem nut was loose but it wasn't that loose. The front brake assembly floats on 2 pins, 1 on top & 1 on bottom. Grab yours and pull it straight up and down several times. There should be slight movement. Then smack it with the palm of you hand (not a hammer) up and down and see if you don't heard a similar clunk. That's my best guess. At 16:04 on this video I hit a pothole and you can hear my clunk ruclips.net/video/DajL3LkTWCI/видео.html I'm not famous like Itchy Boots so I can reply to all comments. I'm curious to hear what you find and where you're from. Just checked out your channel. Very nice videos. Like the brushed look on the wheels but I could never keep them looking clean. I've always liked those tank badges. Again, thank you for watching!
I'm still going to check my rear wheel alignment in the morning and chain. Will keep you posted..... Great riding weather here in Australia.! Chris. (Au)
@@chrispulham4779 Sorry it took so long to get back to you I've been riding a lot instead of pecking on my laptop. Doing short videos is very easy if you have the RUclips app on your phone. Bottom of the app in the center tap the circle with the + inside it. You can probably follow the prompts from there. Or if you would like I can walk you through it. It would be nice if you share your beautiful machine with all of us Royal Enfield enthusiasts.
The left end of the axle seems to be at the extreme end of the swingarm cut-window but the right end (the nut part) is at slightly towrds the center. Is it normal or do one needs to push the right end of axle a little forward??? And also, in the pictures of the adjusters that you showed at 8:46 are not exactly the same on both sides. I mean, on the right side, the mark is on the 4th line (if we count the small line to be the first) and on the left side, the mark is on the third line. Is it alright? How do the lines, the dot and the mark actually work?
The way I understand that is Royal Enfield puts an vertical alignment mark on the swingarm and a punch mark on the adjuster. Adjust so the punch marks are equal distance from the vertical swingarm alignment lines. I could be wrong but that what I've been doing. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@JokicSlobodan I'm sorry I don't know how they do it on the Meteor. IF it's not aligned right it will effect tire wear. On my INT650 I got a wobble at higher speeds. I can't imagine why it won't align. I recommend taking it to a dealer and have them show you how to align it. That would be money well spent. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@JokicSlobodan You're welcome. Be safe. Never hearts to ride into a dealer and ask if it looks like you did it right. My 500 Subscriber video at 2:20 you'll see the Meteor I got to ride. I could have ridden that all day. Enjoy your Royal Enfiled man!
Nice job…I’m not too impressed with all of the maintenance this bike needs compared to say a Japanese motorcycle. Nice old truck in the background…what make and year is it…?
Oh, thank you for watching. Actually, this bike is so easy maintenance-wise. I compared it to the Triumph Bonneville T120 and the INT650 is a piece of cake. Checking the valves is very easy and changing the oil is a breeze. My Kawasaki VN900 I had you had to remove the voltage regulator to replace the oil filter. Plus this filter is in the open air which helps for oil cooling. I converted to belt drive so no more chain maintenance. I think you would find the maintenance a breeze. The truck is a 47 Studebaker.
@@theradiantchild Bandidos Pitstop See my maintenance playlist for one of their videos and you can get your information from there. Thanks for watching my video and I greatly appreciate the comment. Working on my installation video. Love the belt drive.
Thank you for the comment. I am about to do away with all that by getting a belt drive conversation kit from Bandidos Pitstop. Check it out in my Maintenance Playlist. Thank you for watching.
the measurements for chain slack should be taken with weight on the rear wheel, not with weight on the centre stand
Thank you for that. I always thought so but neither the service or owners manual says. Plus I wonder if that's the difference in the two measurements? 30mm-40mm from the service manual on the stand; 20mm-30mm from the owners manual WOW weight on wheels? Just a thought. I appreciate your comment and will pin it so others can read it.
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield - Yes, it may well account for the discrepancy, but it would be good to have it clarified by RE. The service manual is reported to have has many errors. I set chain slack at 20-30mm with bike on a paddock stand, which (from the perspective of chain tension) is equivalent to bike having its weight on the rear wheel.
Yes can be about 5mm out on center stand.Paddock stand is the best tool for this job.Also using side stand with blocks under side stand to almost level & check chain slack this way if no paddock stand available.A paddock stand is a great tool for
Motorcycles.
Came here to say this
Its not just the chain tension. I myself noticed change in markings on the right hand side adjuster when bike was in center stand vs on the ground.
On the stand no matter how much I tighten the bolt the axle stopped adjusting at a point
Hello from Chesterfield England. Enjoyed watching , Thanks for your efforts with the channel.
Jeremy, thank you so much for the kind words. Makes me want to do more & better.
Appreciate your videos from a new RE owner in AZ.
Ohhh, where in Arizona? I used to live on the north side of PHX just south of Deer Valley airport. What Royal Enfield to you have and where did you get it from? I got mine from GOAZ in Peoria. I would love to see it. Please let me know as soon as you post a RUclips walk around of your machine. Thank you for watching and especially the comment. I JUST posted a short video of my rainy day today 🥓🏍🏕
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield Hi, I'm in Kingman. Picked up a New Continental GT. Over at SoCal motorcycles in Brea. They have a hell of a sale going on. $4900 for a new Continental. I bought a GT for $5400 and no dealer fees!
@@steverollins4690 WOW! What color scheme? Sure hope you put a quick walk around of it up on RUclips.
@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield initially I was going to buy the standard Intercepter in blue for $4900. But he had a Red GT next to it for $5400 which is what I bought. No dealer fees, just tax and license. They bought 60 RE from the distributor to get the price break. Sorry, I'm 70 years old and don't do RUclips. But I still ride occasionally!
Great instructive video on the steering stem adjustment - just recently I checked mine and went through the example same steps. The only extra step I did was after a short drive - to do a final torque check. It's more of a habit to me to let everything settle for a bit and then check the torque again. I never encountered any torque loss from settling on the Interceptor, but id encounter it on other bikes I owned, hence it is kinda "baked in" in my maintenance approach 🙂
Wow, thank you so much for watching. Didn't think about it for that but do it for wheels and such. Good idea.
Brilliant video👍
Thank you for watching and for the nice comment.
the chain's play should be checked on entire circumference .
And: the chain's play should be checked , without stand , and with you on the bike , because your weight lower the bike and then reduces the chain's play .
For the correct chain's play setting : you on the bike , and a friend that checks the play .
20- 30 mm of chain's play 're with you on the bike .
Have a nice day.
Thank you for sharing that and hope others see your comment. Over 20,000 miles now on a belt drive conversion. No more chain hassle or mess. I'm a happy camper. Thank you for watching.
Spreadin' the love...
Yep, love my Royal Enfield!
Nice and professional, just don't chop off your fingers like me 😅
@duaneromney2927 Glad you can joke about it.
does this solves the handle wobble problem
It helps, but also make sure your rear wheel is aligned with the front wheel, they need to be going in the same direction , not fighting each other. Also front wheel is balanced with equal amount of weights on both sides, not all on one side.
Thank you so much for watching & commenting. Sorry it took so long to reply. Been riding a lot.
How much mm you set chain free play and at what place of chain? I can see rubber above chain has marking for middle section.
Thank you for the comment. My owner's manual says, "The drive chain free play is 20 mm
to 30 mm." In the video, at 10:11 you can see the service manual calling out for the same. Check it about halfway down where you would see the most free play. I JUST added a video to my Maintenance Playlist for you from Royal Enfield that shows adjusting the chain. It's for the 350 so the numbers and tools are different, but the procedure is the same.
"Marking for middle section" you may be looking at the cutout for a flat spot for the attach bolt to rest on??
Please let me know if that helps or confuses you more :-))
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield Yes Brother, Owners manual and Factory manual contradict each other in mm. I asked local RE ASC ls but they too don't have any idea. If you set 20_30 mm then it will buzz on footpeg with rear pillion and luggage. I think 30_40 mm is for main stand and 20_30 with bike weight. There is slight cut in rubber plastic above chain, may be indication to point out center point of chain. Thanks for your reply. I am one of the admin of very fruitful what's app platform of Group Veteran Riders, Admins of Motorcycle clubs, RUclips Influencers, Brand Representatives across India. It would be my pleasure to have you there.
Cheers 🥂
@@ridinghightidesindia6847 I'm sorry, I am not sure what you mean, "It would be my pleasure to have you there."
@@ridinghightidesindia6847 Also for information there is, Royal Enfield Owners Forum and Classic Motor Works has Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum.
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield I meant in case you wish to get added in that what's app group platform then most welcome.
Hey, I own a continental Gt and was wondering is the steering stem tourque setting purely up to tje rider's preference?
No and Yes. 😉 The service has you setting the torque at: "• Locate Allen socket on stem nut (M12) (a) and tighten gently. 10 mm Allen socket with Ratchet Torque 8 N-m/0.8 kgf-m".
My brother "Bones" with Pro Circuit is a suspension specialist, says put the bike on a stand so the front wheel is off the ground and torque until, when you lightly push the handlebars, they don't keep going and fall through to the stop. There should be a slight drag on them.
Manual has you replacing the fork oil at 37,000 miles so I rode to my brother's house and we went ahead and overhauled the forks. Replaced the fork bushings, piston rings, seals, and the steering stem races and bearings. I had no problems, it's just what my brother and I do.
Thank you for watching and I really appreciate the comment.
Hi, I have an Interceptor and a annoying sound that comes from the direction. This sound comes when I go through potholes. I try to adjust the stem nut without a torchymeter.
Is it very very important to use the torchymeter???
Really cool your channel
Greetings
Wow thank you so much for watching and especially the kind words. My brother was a Pro Circuit suspension specialist and taught me how to tighten the stem nut with out a torque wrench. With the nose wheel off the ground move the handlebars gently with one finger and when you let go the bars should stop. Not freeze immediately, but should firmly stop. Most bikes, mine included, have more drag in one direction than the other because of the control cables & wiring. That's normal. Mine has drag to the right but to the left, before I tightened it, would fall through to the stop with just a slight tap of my finger. You don't want that. I've had to tighten mine 3 times now as the bearings wear in. The stem nut would have to be extremely loose to cause a noise.
The noise might be your front brakes. They are designed to be loose & float on the rotor. When I hit certain bumps I hear a clunk forward of me. First I suspected the steering stem nut was loose but it wasn't that loose. The front brake assembly floats on 2 pins, 1 on top & 1 on bottom. Grab yours and pull it straight up and down several times. There should be slight movement. Then smack it with the palm of you hand (not a hammer) up and down and see if you don't heard a similar clunk. That's my best guess. At 16:04 on this video I hit a pothole and you can hear my clunk ruclips.net/video/DajL3LkTWCI/видео.html
I'm not famous like Itchy Boots so I can reply to all comments. I'm curious to hear what you find and where you're from.
Just checked out your channel. Very nice videos. Like the brushed look on the wheels but I could never keep them looking clean. I've always liked those tank badges.
Again, thank you for watching!
Hi, mine is alot tighter than that,,,,,, factory set and no shakes
Thank you for the comment and the view. Do you have an Interceptor? What color? Sure would like to see a video of it.
Hi, yes I have a 2023 model in Orange CRUSH. I don't know how to upload pics and videos on here. I'll try. Chris ( Australia)
I'm still going to check my rear wheel alignment in the morning and chain. Will keep you posted..... Great riding weather here in Australia.! Chris. (Au)
I made a new small luggage rack for mine and installed it 2day,, looks good and only cost about $30.
@@chrispulham4779 Sorry it took so long to get back to you I've been riding a lot instead of pecking on my laptop. Doing short videos is very easy if you have the RUclips app on your phone. Bottom of the app in the center tap the circle with the + inside it. You can probably follow the prompts from there. Or if you would like I can walk you through it. It would be nice if you share your beautiful machine with all of us Royal Enfield enthusiasts.
The left end of the axle seems to be at the extreme end of the swingarm cut-window but the right end (the nut part) is at slightly towrds the center. Is it normal or do one needs to push the right end of axle a little forward???
And also, in the pictures of the adjusters that you showed at 8:46 are not exactly the same on both sides. I mean, on the right side, the mark is on the 4th line (if we count the small line to be the first) and on the left side, the mark is on the third line. Is it alright? How do the lines, the dot and the mark actually work?
The way I understand that is Royal Enfield puts an vertical alignment mark on the swingarm and a punch mark on the adjuster. Adjust so the punch marks are equal distance from the vertical swingarm alignment lines. I could be wrong but that what I've been doing. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have meteor 350 and have problem to adjust that lines. Difference is 2 lines minimum. Is that bad for long ride?
@@JokicSlobodan I'm sorry I don't know how they do it on the Meteor. IF it's not aligned right it will effect tire wear. On my INT650 I got a wobble at higher speeds. I can't imagine why it won't align. I recommend taking it to a dealer and have them show you how to align it. That would be money well spent. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield
Thanks man. I tested just now its gone very well. Will see.
@@JokicSlobodan You're welcome. Be safe. Never hearts to ride into a dealer and ask if it looks like you did it right. My 500 Subscriber video at 2:20 you'll see the Meteor I got to ride. I could have ridden that all day. Enjoy your Royal Enfiled man!
Any mallus here?!🤣
Thanks for watching.
MY RE... 😂😂
@@detectivejj Glad you noticed! Thanks for the view & comment.
I use to work with a John Paul???
😹athe athe💀💀
Nice job…I’m not too impressed with all of the maintenance this bike needs compared to say a Japanese motorcycle. Nice old truck in the background…what make and year is it…?
Oh, thank you for watching. Actually, this bike is so easy maintenance-wise. I compared it to the Triumph Bonneville T120 and the INT650 is a piece of cake. Checking the valves is very easy and changing the oil is a breeze. My Kawasaki VN900 I had you had to remove the voltage regulator to replace the oil filter. Plus this filter is in the open air which helps for oil cooling. I converted to belt drive so no more chain maintenance. I think you would find the maintenance a breeze. The truck is a 47 Studebaker.
@@MeAndMyRoyalEnfield where did you find a belt drive system for this?
@@theradiantchild Bandidos Pitstop See my maintenance playlist for one of their videos and you can get your information from there. Thanks for watching my video and I greatly appreciate the comment. Working on my installation video. Love the belt drive.
" Nose Wheel. " Check.
Yeah, didn't know I did that until editing months later. Force of habit. You in aviation?
OMG, your chain slack is much to less, sit on your your bike and mesure your real slack....
Thank you for the comment. I am about to do away with all that by getting a belt drive conversation kit from Bandidos Pitstop. Check it out in my Maintenance Playlist. Thank you for watching.