You must do the sniffing test before the wind tunnel test, to not contaminate the smell with the wind. Please be more rigorous and serious with your testing.
For me personally, this lens is ideal, most of the stuff I shoot with lenses is high up in the mountains so having 300mm instead of just 200mm (from normal 70-200, or the 180 from the Tamron 70-180) is far more important than the aperture. Also on these long hikes saving weight is critical so having a smaller and lighter option that has that much reach is perfect. I don't shoot indoor sports at all, occasionally some outdoor stuff but not nearly enough to justify getting a lens for that.
You e helped me decide on my travel kit. It will be a 17-28 and this 70-300. When traveling I’d want the range for landscapes and would frequently shoot at f/8 and beyond anyhow. The range plus the weight plus the coloring with Tamron is superb.
I think for deeper space astrophotography this lens also suits well, since deep space astro needs trackers and stacking hundreds of images anyway, so aperture becomes not as important, but lightness and reach is important. For deep space astro photography beginner even with something like move shoot move tracker this would work well since it's so light and reach is quite decent.
I'm supprised you would say this. If you have a faster lens you require fewer photos to stack. For the same SNR (signal to noise ratio) you'd need 4 times more images with an f/5.6 lens than an f/2.8 lens. That's a pretty big difference to me. I think actual resolving power and light gathering are the two important factors for astrophotography, IMHO.
11:32 his recommendation to get the 180/2.8 doesn’t apply to landscape photographers or travel togs. For travel this would pair well with a compact 50/1.4 for short DOF in eg portraits.
Thanks for the video, I use my A7C to shoot video all the time. I was surprised at how shaky the video was with the Tamron. I know the Sony 70-300 is quite pricy, do you think there would be a lot of image degradation if I used the Sony SEL 70-350? I know its for APC, so camera has to go into crop mode.
Perfect video as always!Btw. (For especially beginners with FF- yet not sure what mm you really will need etcetc) What about Sony 24-240mm 3.5-6.3 OSS?Sorry, but I just love this lens! for me( a7rii)is it very very underestimated lens,but why? Not so expensive for original Sony ,stabilisation, not so heavy(780g- for 10x zoom!), the range is ideal for almost everything you need from in door family photo + video to a liitle wild(especially for me 24 better than 28mm), in crop mode i can go to 360mm 4k video( summary ff+crop= 24-360 with one lens!!!) and 18 mpx photo( 26mpx on A7RIV!!!),dust and moist resistance , 0.27x magnif.- not macro but not too bad, love sharpness,no CA, and 3,5-6.3 seem not so good but, hmm 24-101 mm is in range 3.5-5.6 and only the rest to 240 is 6.3!, try to think deeper about all of this, do you know any other similar lens on market?!;-) btw. At least in jpeg better sph.aber.( or should i say zero maybe better) in 24mm than 24mm on my expensive 2470/ 2.8 GM!!!Good light and sorry for my poor english !
Thing is, 7c ibis is worse, than other bodys. 7c is smaller camera and they had to made completely new ibis to fit inside that body, smaller size compromise the stabilisation effect.
Ah! I have a 28-75 and want more reach for landscapes primarily. It would be nice if it could double for portraits too as I do about half and half landscapes (not wildlife) and kids/portraits/candid shots. Trying to figure out -- sell the 28-75 and just grab a 28-200 and 85/1.8 for portraits? Or keep 28-75, grab 70-300 for outdoors and then an 85/1.8 (eventually) for portraits? Hmm.
Depends on your needs for convenience and reach. I have the 28-200 and a 85/1.8. They make the perfect combination for my needs. I like to do Hiking/travel and portrait photography, primarily. In the 28-75mm range, this lens stays between f2.8 and f4 and focuses really well, even in low light. The compression you get between 70-200 is solid, but if you are looking for true separation from background for portraits, you'd need that faster prime lens. Of course, f5.6 has never bother me for taking pictures of flowers or birds, so for most trips I only carry one lens, the 28-200.
Jared could you do a proper review of the 28-200 f2.8-5.6 (i don't remember seeing one)? Is is worth it? Super zoom are usually bad... I'm considering it with the addition of the Sigma 14-24 f2.8 as a two lens travel kit (when the Covid situation will be over). By the way wouldn't the Sigma 100-400 be a better alternative to this Tamron 70-300? The Sigma is very well built, has excellent OSS and image quality in my opinion.
For normal shooting with my A7III I have the Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 and the Sony 70-300 f4.5-5.6. The latter is excellent outdoors and very good indoors if there is a lot of light (stage lights, etc.). I usually set it to f5.6 if I am doing a lot of zooming indoors or do Jared's trick of setting the ISO for 5.6 shooting at max zoom. If a 24-200+mm f2.8 ever comes out I may get it.
This is incorrect. tell me again why outdoors with the light not changing I should let the camera bounce around with the ISO? If I am photographing a dark skin player or someone with a dark shirt, why should the ISO BOOST higher....it shouldn't. It's a bad move to set auto ISO. But Jared, you can set limits on the auto ISO. So what, I'm not going to say, 100 min, 400 max, that makes no sense. This is not a situation for Auto ISO. Feel free to start making videos about it and show why it's better and maybe people will learn from it.
@@froknowsphoto Using Auto ISO is kind of a de facto in wildlife photography (I don't know that much about sports photography), so there is lot of information about using it already - no need for any more tutorial videos. It's a really practical setting to use for example when zooming with a changing aperture lens in a fast action situation (when having the widest available aperture is desired). And unlike in many sports photography situations in wildlife photography the lighting, subject type and background often chages very rapidly and drastically. But when I'm using this "Manual + Auto ISO" setting I absolutely still want to control the exposure. For that I like to assign EV compensation to one of the easily accessible control wheels (while other two wheels control shutter speed and aperture). I find this easier and faster than controlling ISO directly. I really don't think that there is any one right way of configuring ones camera, but that's what seems to work for me. I don't find ISO that important from a creative point of view - at least compared to aperture and shutter speed. But anyways, I really liked the video, so thanks! 🙂👍🏻
Hi, firstly is not incorrect, just a different method, that's works fine for me! Secondly, setting it up 100min to 400max does make no sense, but 100min to 6400max or whatever you are comfortable with does! I set my exposure compensation +/- to a function button and use it when needed. On a variable aperture lens or any lens works just fine! Give it a go! Enjoy the videos👍
Interesting, could't find side by side comparison between this Tamron and Sony 70-350... probably because about same quality results with double price difference.
There is a Nikon lens 70-300 f4.5-6.3 for f mount, you can adapt that if you want, because we don't know when Nikon is going to release good lenses let alone cheap lenses
The imperial thing comes from those guys who live on an island in Europe and don't want to be part of Europe. They also drive at the wrong side of the road :)
Thanks for the review. I was looking at this lens for recording while hunting. It has the range but looks like it won't do well in low light situations. Like early morning and late evening. Any recommendations???
Excellent review. I like how you pointed out that this lens has attributes that make it right for some and not others. Another reviewer may say it stinks because it doesn't suit their style. Putting yourself in your audience's shoes rather than tooting your own horn. Ahh, mixed metaphors.
I still have mine. Great lens. So how come did Tamron have dared delivering zn f6.3 of something they know how to do in f5.6 is something that I don't get... F6.3 is pretty slow for nowadays standard.
Absolutely fantastic review and even covering the use-case for which I'm looking to buy this lens: photographing high school football. The only problem is that the shots here were in what looks like late morning sunlight which is a hell of a lot brighter than Friday Night Lights. Nevertheless, lots of useful info as well as comparing/contrasting alternatives to this lens along with WHY those alternatives might be better (eg: shooting indoors, lower light) rather than just saying where this lens isn't at its best.
I get confused by posted focal lengths when dealing with APS-C lenses. Is this "300mm" the amount of zoom we'd see on a full-frame 300mm lens? Or should this advertised "300mm" be multiplied by a crop factor to produce a full frame equivalent?
The focal length is a physical measurement. Regardless of the sensor size, the mm is the same. The only difference is that the same focal length lens will look more zoomed in on an apsc compared to a full frame because of how light works and all that technical stuff. Its why a lot of sports and wildlife photographers use professional crop sensor cameras. To get a bit more zoom at the expense of possibly iso performance and stuff like that
About your suggestion to use the 28-200 with a7c: I dont have the A7C, I have it with an a6000. And the lens is too big for that body. Very front heavy. With the battery grip it is really good! My point is: perhaps the A7c is heavy enough to feel good with the 28-200. But it can also be too small. I love the lens however.
Which one would you recommend to add to an a7iii and a tamron 28-75 2.8, for wildlife among other things. This tamron, or the sigma 100-400? In europe the prices of these two lenses are closer than in the us: 699,- an 989,- Or is the tamron 70-180 that sharp that you can crop 200/300q to get the same range....
I was looking to the same thing with also the sony 24-105 and tamron 70-300 and the tamron 17-28 that i already have. It is just that i won’t have 2.8 after 28mm. The 28-200 is tempting but seems to not have the same contrast than a sony 24-105 and i would have at least one lens with OSS
Ok, I need help deciding, As a hobbyist, I only have the Sony A7IV kit lens and Im looking for a zoom lens to get out of reach subjects. Being a hobbyist, I’m looking for budget lenses under 1000 dollars (don’t want to invest too much). I’m looking at this lens and the one he recommends the 28-200. Im having trouble deciding, what I prioritize is lens sharpness. Any advice would be great advice, Thank you
Right now it appears that the price of the 28-200 is about the same or up by $80 bucks while the 70-300mm is down $50-100 making the price difference about $280 or so since this video was made. I think with that difference and my 28-70mm kit lens I'm leaning for the 70-300. Otherwise if I didn't have the kit lens I'd just buy the 28-200 if I'd known in advance and the price was maintained. Speaking from a cost effective angle, of course. Sure the lower aperture would be nice but I'll manage.
How far were you from subject at longest distance? I’m looking to get a lens as I want to shoot some surfers as my home town is a really good/well known surf spot. Of course I’m going to be pretty far from the subjects, especially at low tide. So what would you suggest if you were on the beach, trying to capture surfers out back? That’ll be the furthest distance. And I’ll be on the rocks with the surfers off parallel to me at higher tides. I only have the 17-28 and 28-70, which I’m really enjoying, but I need something longer, for those further subjects & also to not intrude upon any wildlife etc from time to time. 70-180? 150-500? Or the one on this review? Someone help! I can’t afford them all!
Also, if they have a 67mm filter thread that will be real helpful as I have my 67mm filters already for the lenses I mentioned. (My Initial plan was to get the 70-180, as that seems like the trio of Tamron that goes together and covers a lot?) I just can’t decide what will be best, and it’s a lot of money we’re talking, but rather fork o it the extra if it’s going to be a vital aspect of what I want to do. I think the 70-180? Then get the 150-500 at a later date. Is this a good plan?
Can I use Tamron 18-300mm Obiectiv Foto Mirrorless F3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VXD Montura Sony E for soccer ? My boy is a soccer player and i want a Zoom fot this .Thank you !
Hi Jared, Years ago you did the review of a lens that I bought since then and that I like very much: Tamron 70-300 f4-5.6 USD VC. I have used this lens a lot to shoot track days. And now I just don't get it that Tamron did deliver the same focal range with a regression in the speed f6.3 VS f5.6...I don't see any positive evolution in this personally. Ok I get the win concerning the weight and the global length of the lens but I am not sure that it should be firsts considerations compared to the operational speed of a lens.
Nice review Jared. Thanks. At 100mm+:the lens should have IS even if the body has it. Most of the longer z and rf glass has combined lens IS. How silent is the af for video
Hi Jared!! How are you recording video of the sensor in your camera? For Example: at 9:30 your camera tracks your subject and then takes a photo. How did you get the tracking clip? Thank you so much for your help!
If you wanna grow as a photographer, have a look at Tamron 70-180 f/2.8, smile and say NOPE and wait for Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 that is hopefully coming soon. But if you want to shoot outdoor, wait for tamron's release 200-400 f/4 that is already pattented. :-D
The thing is that Sigma is nowhere to be seen and we don't know the performance. It was announced long time ago and if sb wants to buy tele zoom lens they can choose between 70-200gm or 70-180.
yep wait for sigma at worst it will drop the price of the tamron 70-180mm also ,art wins though better than gm and tamron also lighter than gm and wallet
Hey Jared how does it compare to the Sony FE 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G OSS Lens (outdoor skiing need the reach) is the stabilization and lower aperture worth the extra cash
the way I see it is if you're already spending 550 there's no point to not just spend the extra 100. and like you said if you have a crop sensor it'll end up being 300 mm instead of 200 anyways. no brainer
@@leniehulse1621 Oh, if photos come out overexposed you can correct that by lowering the EV setting. I actually use around -1/2 EV for base value and then have one of the dials set for EV value control / override. That's needed because I prefer the smart average metering (with central area weighting) instead of spot metering or limiting to the brightest detail type. So having fast control over EV works best for me. Of course if you are happy with the exposure but just don't like the ISO values being so high - that's a user error. You need to use longer shutter and / or lower F. Though you can also limit the maximum ISO the Auto ISO raises to. For new FF bodies I like ISO 25600 limit. But if you have set the shutter and F to brightest possible for the situation (in wildlife photography shutter often limited by moving speed of the subject and F by lens widest) having high ISO gives better result than severely underexposing and correcting in post.
I bought the a7c and the evf is perfectly fine for me. It seems big enough. I had before a Camcorder hfs21 with 240000pixels smaller evf. I can tell you, the a7c is incredible compare to it. If you compare to a bigger 10mdots evf of a7sIII of course it won’t be as good. But trust me i have bad sight, and have no issue with a7c. Bythe way the a7c is amazing. In both photos and video. At long range an optical lens stabilization will always be more effective than IBIS. But normally at 300mm you try to get a monopod or tripod for videos, for photos the ibis is good enough handhelds. The autofocus is the most important then you can choose a 1/500 speed and the a7c is really good even at 12800 iso, so at 500 or 2500 iso, the photos will be great with this incredible camera.
I hate to nitpick... no, I take that back, I really enjoy it. But I digress. Calling the 70-300mm an aps-c equivalent of 105-450mm is not technically correct. It's just a crop of the actual focal length. If you magically had a 105-450mm lens on the full frame camera and the 70-300mm on the aps-c and took a picture from the same spot with both cameras aimed at the same subject, you would get two different renditions. The one from the full frame would have a thinner depth of field and the foreground and background would be more compressed than the aps-c shot. That's because the two cameras would be using different focal lengths to achieve similar (though not the same) framing. Conversely, if you do the same with both cameras, but use the same lens on both at the same focal length, then crop the full frame shot to match the framing of the aps-c shot, you'll end up with the same exact photo. I know that you know this Jared, but many of your viewers probably didn't.
This lense would be great for helicopterspotting! Cause my Sony SEL 55-210mm is way too short. Great to see fast shutterspeed sample images! Cause I shoot helicopters at 1/800 - 1/1000s.
You must do the sniffing test before the wind tunnel test, to not contaminate the smell with the wind. Please be more rigorous and serious with your testing.
For me personally, this lens is ideal, most of the stuff I shoot with lenses is high up in the mountains so having 300mm instead of just 200mm (from normal 70-200, or the 180 from the Tamron 70-180) is far more important than the aperture. Also on these long hikes saving weight is critical so having a smaller and lighter option that has that much reach is perfect. I don't shoot indoor sports at all, occasionally some outdoor stuff but not nearly enough to justify getting a lens for that.
How are you finding it in video, is it stable enough to film free hand?
You e helped me decide on my travel kit. It will be a 17-28 and this 70-300. When traveling I’d want the range for landscapes and would frequently shoot at f/8 and beyond anyhow. The range plus the weight plus the coloring with Tamron is superb.
I've got both 70300 and 70180. I think 70300 is very good for this price, super light and sharp enough. A good combination for 28-75.
Can you get similar quality when crop in 70180 to the same Focal length as 70300?
I think for deeper space astrophotography this lens also suits well, since deep space astro needs trackers and stacking hundreds of images anyway, so aperture becomes not as important, but lightness and reach is important. For deep space astro photography beginner even with something like move shoot move tracker this would work well since it's so light and reach is quite decent.
I'm supprised you would say this. If you have a faster lens you require fewer photos to stack. For the same SNR (signal to noise ratio) you'd need 4 times more images with an f/5.6 lens than an f/2.8 lens. That's a pretty big difference to me. I think actual resolving power and light gathering are the two important factors for astrophotography, IMHO.
11:32 his recommendation to get the 180/2.8 doesn’t apply to landscape photographers or travel togs. For travel this would pair well with a compact 50/1.4 for short DOF in eg portraits.
Jared "let me jump in here real quick" Polin
Wonder if it works when he´s on a date?
Right when i read your commen he jumped there real quick 😂
Jared as White House photographer: "Let me jump in here real quick!" Ginger Press Secretary: "Let me circle back to you on that."
Now we need a 100-400mm from Tamron!
RUclips really, really, REALLY wants me to watch this video. Fine. I'll watch it. I don't have a Sony, but I'll watch it.
fyi u can click the 3 dots on the video and click not interested
Thanks for the video, I use my A7C to shoot video all the time. I was surprised at how shaky the video was with the Tamron. I know the Sony 70-300 is quite pricy, do you think there would be a lot of image degradation if I used the Sony SEL 70-350? I know its for APC, so camera has to go into crop mode.
Perfect video as always!Btw. (For especially beginners with FF- yet not sure what mm you really will need etcetc) What about Sony 24-240mm 3.5-6.3 OSS?Sorry, but I just love this lens! for me( a7rii)is it very very underestimated lens,but why? Not so expensive for original Sony ,stabilisation, not so heavy(780g- for 10x zoom!), the range is ideal for almost everything you need from in door family photo + video to a liitle wild(especially for me 24 better than 28mm), in crop mode i can go to 360mm 4k video( summary ff+crop= 24-360 with one lens!!!) and 18 mpx photo( 26mpx on A7RIV!!!),dust and moist resistance , 0.27x magnif.- not macro but not too bad, love sharpness,no CA, and 3,5-6.3 seem not so good but, hmm 24-101 mm is in range 3.5-5.6 and only the rest to 240 is 6.3!, try to think deeper about all of this, do you know any other similar lens on market?!;-) btw. At least in jpeg better sph.aber.( or should i say zero maybe better) in 24mm than 24mm on my expensive 2470/ 2.8 GM!!!Good light and sorry for my poor english !
I believe IBIS is only active durring half press of shutter, just before the click. Good Vid 😉👍
... right! 👍🏻
Thing is, 7c ibis is worse, than other bodys. 7c is smaller camera and they had to made completely new ibis to fit inside that body, smaller size compromise the stabilisation effect.
@@miikmar ... I work with the a7R IV, a9 II and a7C - and I notice no big difference. 🤷🏼♂️
@@TW-iu9zy still not as good as the competition
@@airjaff ... of cause: it‘s a Sony IBIS! 😄
Ah! I have a 28-75 and want more reach for landscapes primarily. It would be nice if it could double for portraits too as I do about half and half landscapes (not wildlife) and kids/portraits/candid shots.
Trying to figure out -- sell the 28-75 and just grab a 28-200 and 85/1.8 for portraits? Or keep 28-75, grab 70-300 for outdoors and then an 85/1.8 (eventually) for portraits? Hmm.
Depends on your needs for convenience and reach. I have the 28-200 and a 85/1.8. They make the perfect combination for my needs. I like to do Hiking/travel and portrait photography, primarily. In the 28-75mm range, this lens stays between f2.8 and f4 and focuses really well, even in low light. The compression you get between 70-200 is solid, but if you are looking for true separation from background for portraits, you'd need that faster prime lens. Of course, f5.6 has never bother me for taking pictures of flowers or birds, so for most trips I only carry one lens, the 28-200.
Jared could you do a proper review of the 28-200 f2.8-5.6 (i don't remember seeing one)? Is is worth it? Super zoom are usually bad... I'm considering it with the addition of the Sigma 14-24 f2.8 as a two lens travel kit (when the Covid situation will be over). By the way wouldn't the Sigma 100-400 be a better alternative to this Tamron 70-300? The Sigma is very well built, has excellent OSS and image quality in my opinion.
I believe the answer to both questions is "yes". Did you look for the review of that 28-200 on his channel?
Great review
For normal shooting with my A7III I have the Tamron 28-75mm f2.8 and the Sony 70-300 f4.5-5.6. The latter is excellent outdoors and very good indoors if there is a lot of light (stage lights, etc.). I usually set it to f5.6 if I am doing a lot of zooming indoors or do Jared's trick of setting the ISO for 5.6 shooting at max zoom. If a 24-200+mm f2.8 ever comes out I may get it.
If you use auto iso no need to worry about the changing aperture at different focal lengths! A must for sport and wildlife photography!
Yes, I just commented the same. Could it be that some photographers don't know that Auto ISO exists? 🤔
This is incorrect. tell me again why outdoors with the light not changing I should let the camera bounce around with the ISO? If I am photographing a dark skin player or someone with a dark shirt, why should the ISO BOOST higher....it shouldn't. It's a bad move to set auto ISO. But Jared, you can set limits on the auto ISO. So what, I'm not going to say, 100 min, 400 max, that makes no sense. This is not a situation for Auto ISO.
Feel free to start making videos about it and show why it's better and maybe people will learn from it.
@@froknowsphoto Using Auto ISO is kind of a de facto in wildlife photography (I don't know that much about sports photography), so there is lot of information about using it already - no need for any more tutorial videos.
It's a really practical setting to use for example when zooming with a changing aperture lens in a fast action situation (when having the widest available aperture is desired). And unlike in many sports photography situations in wildlife photography the lighting, subject type and background often chages very rapidly and drastically.
But when I'm using this "Manual + Auto ISO" setting I absolutely still want to control the exposure. For that I like to assign EV compensation to one of the easily accessible control wheels (while other two wheels control shutter speed and aperture). I find this easier and faster than controlling ISO directly.
I really don't think that there is any one right way of configuring ones camera, but that's what seems to work for me. I don't find ISO that important from a creative point of view - at least compared to aperture and shutter speed.
But anyways, I really liked the video, so thanks! 🙂👍🏻
Hi, firstly is not incorrect, just a different method, that's works fine for me! Secondly, setting it up 100min to 400max does make no sense, but 100min to 6400max or whatever you are comfortable with does! I set my exposure compensation +/- to a function button and use it when needed. On a variable aperture lens or any lens works just fine! Give it a go! Enjoy the videos👍
I think the shaky viewfinder in photo mode is because IBIS engages only when you half press the shutter button, no?
Image stabilization in lens only starts when you half press but in body is always on if it’s set to on
Yeah, IBIS in A7C is quite limited. U guess it's partly do to the compact body dimensions.
@@jordanmitchell4830 is this specific to A7C? It's not like that on a6500 or a7iii...
It's nothing to do with when it engages. It's rubbish because of the puny lens mount of the Sony!
@@airjaff have you tried it? It's very usable for photos
this channel always feels like a television selling show :D
Interesting, could't find side by side comparison between this Tamron and Sony 70-350...
probably because about same quality results with double price difference.
Cool lens, wish Nikon Z and Canon RF would have it. Jared, are you going to do N Z 14-24/2.8 S review?
There is a Nikon lens 70-300 f4.5-6.3 for f mount, you can adapt that if you want, because we don't know when Nikon is going to release good lenses let alone cheap lenses
@@paras6TEEN I do not want adapting lenses. I can just wait.
Canon's 70-300mm for EF is very good. I wish this lens was more like that one.
The imperial thing comes from those guys who live on an island in Europe and don't want to be part of Europe. They also drive at the wrong side of the road :)
Thanks for the review. I was looking at this lens for recording while hunting. It has the range but looks like it won't do well in low light situations. Like early morning and late evening. Any recommendations???
I’m thinking about using this lens with Sony a6400 for wildlife.
Great combo.
Excellent review. I like how you pointed out that this lens has attributes that make it right for some and not others. Another reviewer may say it stinks because it doesn't suit their style. Putting yourself in your audience's shoes rather than tooting your own horn. Ahh, mixed metaphors.
Back with my Nikongear (D80 / D90 / D7100) i had the Tamron 70-300 VC USD
For about 320€ inc VAT it was a real good lens for travel and zoo.
I still have mine. Great lens. So how come did Tamron have dared delivering zn f6.3 of something they know how to do in f5.6 is something that I don't get... F6.3 is pretty slow for nowadays standard.
You can blur backgrounds afterwards, more trouble but way cheaper.
Great review!
Absolutely fantastic review and even covering the use-case for which I'm looking to buy this lens: photographing high school football. The only problem is that the shots here were in what looks like late morning sunlight which is a hell of a lot brighter than Friday Night Lights. Nevertheless, lots of useful info as well as comparing/contrasting alternatives to this lens along with WHY those alternatives might be better (eg: shooting indoors, lower light) rather than just saying where this lens isn't at its best.
Would I be correct in assuming that at these focal length with a variable aperture, shooting in shutter priority mode is a good option?
I get confused by posted focal lengths when dealing with APS-C lenses. Is this "300mm" the amount of zoom we'd see on a full-frame 300mm lens?
Or should this advertised "300mm" be multiplied by a crop factor to produce a full frame equivalent?
The focal length is a physical measurement. Regardless of the sensor size, the mm is the same.
The only difference is that the same focal length lens will look more zoomed in on an apsc compared to a full frame because of how light works and all that technical stuff.
Its why a lot of sports and wildlife photographers use professional crop sensor cameras. To get a bit more zoom at the expense of possibly iso performance and stuff like that
About your suggestion to use the 28-200 with a7c:
I dont have the A7C, I have it with an a6000. And the lens is too big for that body. Very front heavy. With the battery grip it is really good!
My point is: perhaps the A7c is heavy enough to feel good with the 28-200. But it can also be too small.
I love the lens however.
What's your opinion in shorthand of the 18-200 Tamron lens? Would you shoot with it for portraits INDOORS maybe with some lighting?
Which one would you recommend to add to an a7iii and a tamron 28-75 2.8, for wildlife among other things.
This tamron, or the sigma 100-400?
In europe the prices of these two lenses are closer than in the us: 699,- an 989,-
Or is the tamron 70-180 that sharp that you can crop 200/300q to get the same range....
I had a hard time making the same decision for myself but i ended up buying the tamron 28-75 and a canon 70-200 f4 with a sigma adapter.
For wildlife I would definitely suggest the 100-400 Sigma.
Actually USofA is on Metric system as the imperial measurement are defined now in terms of meter and Kilogram etc…
the image stablization focal range was set to low MM... If u set it to 300 mm then it works great.... Its in the settings. he should have known that.
Would you rather carry around 28-75 + 70-300 or just the 28-200?
I was looking to the same thing with also the sony 24-105 and tamron 70-300 and the tamron 17-28 that i already have. It is just that i won’t have 2.8 after 28mm. The 28-200 is tempting but seems to not have the same contrast than a sony 24-105 and i would have at least one lens with OSS
What about adding a 2.0x teleconverter to add length? Do you think it’s good? Anyone try it yet???
Are you from PA? That one QB had a Millersville shirt on!
It's for sure better than my 70/300 from sigma, that thing is soft as hell wide open, i have to shoot at f/11 so it gives me some nice quality 😂
Ok, I need help deciding, As a hobbyist, I only have the Sony A7IV kit lens and Im looking for a zoom lens to get out of reach subjects. Being a hobbyist, I’m looking for budget lenses under 1000 dollars (don’t want to invest too much). I’m looking at this lens and the one he recommends the 28-200. Im having trouble deciding, what I prioritize is lens sharpness. Any advice would be great advice, Thank you
Right now it appears that the price of the 28-200 is about the same or up by $80 bucks while the 70-300mm is down $50-100 making the price difference about $280 or so since this video was made. I think with that difference and my 28-70mm kit lens I'm leaning for the 70-300. Otherwise if I didn't have the kit lens I'd just buy the 28-200 if I'd known in advance and the price was maintained. Speaking from a cost effective angle, of course. Sure the lower aperture would be nice but I'll manage.
How far were you from subject at longest distance?
I’m looking to get a lens as I want to shoot some surfers as my home town is a really good/well known surf spot.
Of course I’m going to be pretty far from the subjects, especially at low tide. So what would you suggest if you were on the beach, trying to capture surfers out back? That’ll be the furthest distance. And I’ll be on the rocks with the surfers off parallel to me at higher tides. I only have the 17-28 and 28-70, which I’m really enjoying, but I need something longer, for those further subjects & also to not intrude upon any wildlife etc from time to time.
70-180? 150-500? Or the one on this review? Someone help! I can’t afford them all!
Also, if they have a 67mm filter thread that will be real helpful as I have my 67mm filters already for the lenses I mentioned. (My
Initial plan was to get the 70-180, as that seems like the trio of Tamron that goes together and covers a lot?)
I just can’t decide what will be best, and it’s a lot of money we’re talking, but rather fork o it the extra if it’s going to be a vital aspect of what I want to do.
I think the 70-180?
Then get the 150-500 at a later date. Is this a good plan?
Can I use Tamron 18-300mm Obiectiv Foto Mirrorless F3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VXD Montura Sony E for soccer ? My boy is a soccer player and i want a Zoom fot this .Thank you !
Bi bro.....Can i use this lens with Sony a7iii for wedding photography(candid) in indoor or low light conditions?
Hi Jared,
Years ago you did the review of a lens that I bought since then and that I like very much: Tamron 70-300 f4-5.6 USD VC.
I have used this lens a lot to shoot track days.
And now I just don't get it that Tamron did deliver the same focal range with a regression in the speed f6.3 VS f5.6...I don't see any positive evolution in this personally.
Ok I get the win concerning the weight and the global length of the lens but I am not sure that it should be firsts considerations compared to the operational speed of a lens.
Love the Tamrom 70 to 300mm...AWESOME...
Nice review Jared. Thanks. At 100mm+:the lens should have IS even if the body has it. Most of the longer z and rf glass has combined lens IS. How silent is the af for video
Hi Jared!! How are you recording video of the sensor in your camera?
For Example: at 9:30 your camera tracks your subject and then takes a photo. How did you get the tracking clip?
Thank you so much for your help!
Thoose loots look really good, for a moment I even beleved that those might even save the photos out of my 40-150 f4-5.6
sigma 100-400 any day. You are the best dude on the entire planet!!! Thanks for the review!
Yeah, but then the 100-400 is over double the price.
In every camera the background depends on the object means how close the object is to background is something close to object there is no blurring.
i have a sony nex 6 (it does not have ibis). would the Tamron 70-300mm still work ok? what are your thoughts? thanks!
Thanks for such a good review.
Would you recommend using auto iso for variable aperture lenses? Other than that, yeah manual all the way
what about the sigma100-400? which would you get?
Hey Jared! Could this work for shooting the moon? Which lense or type of lense would you recommend??
Yeah this will work. Don’t expect to get super close, but you can always crop
I’m using “embigen” more often starting today.
Agreed, is so so ... i think the 70-180 is still my future investment for it
is this lens worth it over a 70-200 f4, my uncle has one and might sell it to me
Could you buy a teleconverter and make the Tamron 70-180 2.8 to a 140-360 5.6?
Which would you suggest between this and Sigma 100-400mm?
sigma 100-400 is for exercise.
Exciting time when you Jared Polin posts a video of him shooting at your Alma Mata Lol!!! How'd you end up shooting at Millersville Jared?
Is it possible to use this one with sony 7a? Or i need a ring?
sniff or no sniff I bought it for bird photography... i'm happy with it... don't need anything more, i add it to my collection for travel
If you wanna grow as a photographer, have a look at Tamron 70-180 f/2.8, smile and say NOPE and wait for Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 that is hopefully coming soon. But if you want to shoot outdoor, wait for tamron's release 200-400 f/4 that is already pattented. :-D
Can't wait for the Sigma one. It'll be so good!
The thing is that Sigma is nowhere to be seen and we don't know the performance. It was announced long time ago and if sb wants to buy tele zoom lens they can choose between 70-200gm or 70-180.
yep wait for sigma at worst it will drop the price of the tamron 70-180mm also ,art wins though better than gm and tamron also lighter than gm and wallet
I hope the Tamron 200-400 would come out in 2021 and costs less than US$4000
Hey Jared how does it compare to the Sony FE 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G OSS Lens (outdoor skiing need the reach) is the stabilization and lower aperture worth the extra cash
did u get an answer? i am still wondering the same! i think with OSS and 5.6 the sony is better
Just seen, very well explained..
Please review Tamron 20mm!
the way I see it is if you're already spending 550 there's no point to not just spend the extra 100. and like you said if you have a crop sensor it'll end up being 300 mm instead of 200 anyways. no brainer
So how about this and the newly released 17-70 2.8? Seems like a great combo.
Pair the 17-70 with the Tamron 70-180mm f2.8
Odd question, whens the R6 review coming?? Cause i really want to get one but i want to make sure its worth the investment
Get the camera. It's worth it. It can do everything.
I am buying this from your review
Does Tamron 70-300mm fit for Sony a6400? Please.
Can both lenses can be mounted to sony a6000?
If you need the reach, mount the 70-180 on a A6600 you'll get 105-270 f/4.2, which is still much better than f/6.3.
Why f4.2?
@@CC-gt3ro I think they are confusing the crop factor and using a tele converter, which drops the f stop when used.
5:37 I like to use Auto ISO instead.
Most of the times when you have your camera on auto iso the iso then goes too high.
@@leniehulse1621 Oh, if photos come out overexposed you can correct that by lowering the EV setting. I actually use around -1/2 EV for base value and then have one of the dials set for EV value control / override.
That's needed because I prefer the smart average metering (with central area weighting) instead of spot metering or limiting to the brightest detail type. So having fast control over EV works best for me.
Of course if you are happy with the exposure but just don't like the ISO values being so high - that's a user error. You need to use longer shutter and / or lower F.
Though you can also limit the maximum ISO the Auto ISO raises to. For new FF bodies I like ISO 25600 limit. But if you have set the shutter and F to brightest possible for the situation (in wildlife photography shutter often limited by moving speed of the subject and F by lens widest) having high ISO gives better result than severely underexposing and correcting in post.
bisa dipasang di mount 4/3 nggak gan?
I was expecting you to rip on this haha. Great review Jared. Honest and fair. Great lens
How did you shoot the EVF?
Is it work with Sony 2x teleconveter ??
Thank you for the recommendation. I just got mine today and did the sniff test 😂😂
It is not 2.8 APS-C, it will be 2.8*1.5 as well. So, light won’t be perceived same.
Thx
I bought the a7c and the evf is perfectly fine for me. It seems big enough. I had before a Camcorder hfs21 with 240000pixels smaller evf. I can tell you, the a7c is incredible compare to it. If you compare to a bigger 10mdots evf of a7sIII of course it won’t be as good. But trust me i have bad sight, and have no issue with a7c. Bythe way the a7c is amazing. In both photos and video. At long range an optical lens stabilization will always be more effective than IBIS. But normally at 300mm you try to get a monopod or tripod for videos, for photos the ibis is good enough handhelds. The autofocus is the most important then you can choose a 1/500 speed and the a7c is really good even at 12800 iso, so at 500 or 2500 iso, the photos will be great with this incredible camera.
so its worth than kit ?? (a6000)
Any possibility to get these presets for Luminar 4?
Anyone use it for moon photos? Any good? Thanks!
Could you put a teleconvertor on the 70/180 ?
Tamron 28-200 cost 780 EUR(949 USD) not 649 USD(amazon de). B&H 729 USD+ shipping 30 USD + taxes 204 USD =963 USD
Nice tutorial
I hate to nitpick... no, I take that back, I really enjoy it. But I digress. Calling the 70-300mm an aps-c equivalent of 105-450mm is not technically correct. It's just a crop of the actual focal length.
If you magically had a 105-450mm lens on the full frame camera and the 70-300mm on the aps-c and took a picture from the same spot with both cameras aimed at the same subject, you would get two different renditions. The one from the full frame would have a thinner depth of field and the foreground and background would be more compressed than the aps-c shot. That's because the two cameras would be using different focal lengths to achieve similar (though not the same) framing.
Conversely, if you do the same with both cameras, but use the same lens on both at the same focal length, then crop the full frame shot to match the framing of the aps-c shot, you'll end up with the same exact photo.
I know that you know this Jared, but many of your viewers probably didn't.
very nice, need a new camera. thank you
🇺🇸 - Imperimetrical?
Does it work with autofocus ?
Why not set auto ISO? range 100-400
You used Eric Floberg’s background music lol
imperial is based off metric btw
I was considering the 70-300 until you mentioned the 28-700 f2.8-f5.6...the rest is......
I understood that it has stabilisation....
This lense would be great for helicopterspotting! Cause my Sony SEL 55-210mm is way too short. Great to see fast shutterspeed sample images! Cause I shoot helicopters at 1/800 - 1/1000s.