Omg after watching this, I realized I installed mine upside-down, and the LED's are facing down. Now I have to take it apart again and place them in the right way. Thank you for showing me the right way
Nice Tutorial! Several questions: 1) does the LED ring lower the gimbals? 2) how difficult is it to completely replace the shell [e.g. to retrofit a black boxer with transparent shell]? 3) can you dim the LED rings in conjunction with dimming the LCD? 4) what kind of Pilot Watch is that you have on a black/grey NATO strap?
Thanks so much for your kind words. 1. The gimbals are lowered a bit, but it's not really noticeable. You can always unscrew the stick ends slightly to compensate. 2. I haven't done a full case change on the Boxer, but it's easy enough to tear down. 3. Unfortunately not, but they are only really that bright at night or in my lab! 4. It's the best flieger watch. The Laco Paderborn, Type B, Sterile. I get so many questions on this I should should do a dedicated video.
@@WhirlyBloke Thanks for the info. I was considering the LEDs mostly for the drop, but the brightness worries me (flying sims at night in my dark office). The Laco is very nice. You SHOULD do a video about it, and any others in your collection! Good Stuff!
@@eTexNerd I feel with you, just installed it and was a bit disappointed that i can not dim them (i have the backlight on S1 and hoped i can add the leds there) as it is way to bright on the transprarent version, should be ok on the black version as it lights the gimbal only through the 3mm gap and the leds dont shine into your eyes directly through the shell. I Propably add a switch to turn them off, even if i prefered a software solution
@@AudioPhil84 If you're adding a switch, you might be able to add a potentiometer instead. I saw a video where a guy wire them directly into the S1 knob (and obviously lost software functionality of S1). So the principal could be the same: maybe order a replacement S1 knob and hack it into the case.
i did the full case swap it took me quite some time to get the nuts on the switches off the are lowered into the case not like with the radiomaster tx16 so you cant get to the nuts easily and you need to bend the case a little on the top to get the board out otherwise the audio port doesnt come out of the case its important to undo the speaker cable before removing the board i only undid the gimbals and the speaker seperately you dont need to undo the switches just make sure you put them right sight up back into the new case obviously and make sure you put in all the buttons like the return/page ones otherwise you turn you radio around and notice them missing after you put everything back together like i did D: i also noticed that there is a little gap at the potentiometer knobs with the transparent case not sure if thats normal or if i forgot something
Lol Just a month or two ago I was saying how I wanted this in the elrs discord :) But I was saying specifically a smoke translucent black would be really nice especially if there were some rgb led's inside. Kind of like the mouse I use which is xtrfy rail.
did you use the screws that came with the led mod to screw back the gimbal + leds? i heard some people have damaged their boxer shells because the screws that came with the led mod are too long, not sure if thats been your experience with them
Yes, I used the ones that came supplied (10 mm) and there were no problems with the AG01 gimbals. You have to be really careful screwing these self tapping screws into the plastic case and not do them up too tight. If you're screwing them in and they seem too tight, stop cos there's something wrong. Also check the front of the case to check they aren't making any marks. I did hear there were some problems with the very early AG01 gimbals kits being supplied with incorrect longer screws, so that may be the cause of the the stories you’ve heard.
how much deeper do the gimbals sit if you do this? i m not as interested in the leds themselfs they seem to bright to me but i would like to have the gimbals sit deeper in the radio
The LEDs look much brighter in the video simple cos I'm using them at night. In normal day light they look quite normal. The gimbals are a bit deeper, but for me it makes no difference and doesn't feel odd or restrict the end movement. However, you can always wind the stick ends out a couple of turns if you need to. Thanks for watching.
Yes, I used the ones that came supplied (10 mm) and there were no problems with the AG01 gimbals. You have to be really careful screwing these self tapping screws into the plastic case and not do them up too tight. If you're screwing them in and they seem too tight, stop cos there's something wrong. Also check the front of the case to check they aren't making any marks. I did hear there were some problems with the very early AG01 gimbals kits being supplied with incorrect longer screws, so that may be the cause of the the stories you’ve heard.
I gave up on cheap tools years ago - they always end up disappointing or ruin bolts and screws. Everything I use is in this kit store.ifixit.co.uk/products/pro-tech-toolkit Thanks for watching.
Do the leds result in the sticks being shorter than without? I.e. is the stick movement/travel impacted due to the led and led spacers you have installed? (I am a pincher)
@@WhirlyBloke would you say this makes any difference unnoticeable to the original, in terms of stick travel? I'm going to buy the rotorriot edition boxer and it comes with the ag01 gimbals (which is great) and the white LEDs installed (which I am not fussed about, aside from the affect on the gimbal length and stick travel)...
Unfortunately not, but they don't look as bright in real life. The lighting in my studio and using at night does make them them look brighter than they are. It might be possible to put a resistor in series with the +ve on the cable to reduce the brightness. Thanks for watching.
Actually @slappomatthew and @@WhirlyBloke I found a way to adjust them. I made a video its in my channel. I used one of the knobs to adjust the brightness. It required very simple solder job.
125 pounds for the 20 dollar more transparent edition? I'm pretty sure I paid more in the UK a few months ago for just the normal version (elrs) from the uk distributor (hobbbyrc)?
Prices will fluctuate with exchange rates. My prices are based on what RadioMaster list them for on their website. Sometimes dealer prices will be higher or lower.
you need to bend the top side of the case outwards a little otherwise the board gets hung up on the audio connector i had the same problem ^^ and unhook the speaker cable before you remove the board
Omg after watching this, I realized I installed mine upside-down, and the LED's are facing down. Now I have to take it apart again and place them in the right way. Thank you for showing me the right way
I'm glad to know it helped. Thanks for watching.
Well done, thank you for your time ...
No worries!
Good tutorial and the Boxer looks good.
It's the absolute best.
Wish they did a green gimbal led set, I would definitely partake in some of those ;)
I'll mention it to them.
just purchase the white or blue and solder on your own.
Yea fantastic! Thanks man 👍😍🥂
No problem 👍
Nice Tutorial! Several questions: 1) does the LED ring lower the gimbals? 2) how difficult is it to completely replace the shell [e.g. to retrofit a black boxer with transparent shell]? 3) can you dim the LED rings in conjunction with dimming the LCD? 4) what kind of Pilot Watch is that you have on a black/grey NATO strap?
Thanks so much for your kind words.
1. The gimbals are lowered a bit, but it's not really noticeable. You can always unscrew the stick ends slightly to compensate.
2. I haven't done a full case change on the Boxer, but it's easy enough to tear down.
3. Unfortunately not, but they are only really that bright at night or in my lab!
4. It's the best flieger watch. The Laco Paderborn, Type B, Sterile. I get so many questions on this I should should do a dedicated video.
@@WhirlyBloke Thanks for the info. I was considering the LEDs mostly for the drop, but the brightness worries me (flying sims at night in my dark office). The Laco is very nice. You SHOULD do a video about it, and any others in your collection! Good Stuff!
@@eTexNerd I feel with you, just installed it and was a bit disappointed that i can not dim them (i have the backlight on S1 and hoped i can add the leds there) as it is way to bright on the transprarent version, should be ok on the black version as it lights the gimbal only through the 3mm gap and the leds dont shine into your eyes directly through the shell.
I Propably add a switch to turn them off, even if i prefered a software solution
@@AudioPhil84 If you're adding a switch, you might be able to add a potentiometer instead. I saw a video where a guy wire them directly into the S1 knob (and obviously lost software functionality of S1). So the principal could be the same: maybe order a replacement S1 knob and hack it into the case.
i did the full case swap it took me quite some time to get the nuts on the switches off
the are lowered into the case not like with the radiomaster tx16 so you cant get to the nuts easily
and you need to bend the case a little on the top to get the board out otherwise the audio port doesnt come out of the case
its important to undo the speaker cable before removing the board
i only undid the gimbals and the speaker seperately you dont need to undo the switches just make sure you put them right sight up back into the new case obviously
and make sure you put in all the buttons like the return/page ones otherwise you turn you radio around and notice them missing after you put everything back together like i did D:
i also noticed that there is a little gap at the potentiometer knobs with the transparent case not sure if thats normal or if i forgot something
Yup, I want one
It totally rocks.
Lol Just a month or two ago I was saying how I wanted this in the elrs discord :) But I was saying specifically a smoke translucent black would be really nice especially if there were some rgb led's inside. Kind of like the mouse I use which is xtrfy rail.
That would be a nice combo.
did you use the screws that came with the led mod to screw back the gimbal + leds? i heard some people have damaged their boxer shells because the screws that came with the led mod are too long, not sure if thats been your experience with them
Yes, I used the ones that came supplied (10 mm) and there were no problems with the AG01 gimbals. You have to be really careful screwing these self tapping screws into the plastic case and not do them up too tight. If you're screwing them in and they seem too tight, stop cos there's something wrong. Also check the front of the case to check they aren't making any marks.
I did hear there were some problems with the very early AG01 gimbals kits being supplied with incorrect longer screws, so that may be the cause of the the stories you’ve heard.
how much deeper do the gimbals sit if you do this? i m not as interested in the leds themselfs they seem to bright to me but i would like to have the gimbals sit deeper in the radio
The LEDs look much brighter in the video simple cos I'm using them at night. In normal day light they look quite normal. The gimbals are a bit deeper, but for me it makes no difference and doesn't feel odd or restrict the end movement. However, you can always wind the stick ends out a couple of turns if you need to. Thanks for watching.
I heard that the screws are too long is that true so it’s ok to use them
Yes, I used the ones that came supplied (10 mm) and there were no problems with the AG01 gimbals. You have to be really careful screwing these self tapping screws into the plastic case and not do them up too tight. If you're screwing them in and they seem too tight, stop cos there's something wrong. Also check the front of the case to check they aren't making any marks.
I did hear there were some problems with the very early AG01 gimbals kits being supplied with incorrect longer screws, so that may be the cause of the the stories you’ve heard.
What size screwdrivers are you using? None of the ones I own are working.
I gave up on cheap tools years ago - they always end up disappointing or ruin bolts and screws. Everything I use is in this kit store.ifixit.co.uk/products/pro-tech-toolkit Thanks for watching.
Reverse the LEDs much better glow.! 👌
Much darker though 😕
@@WhirlyBloke Yes better diffusion of the LEDs not so cheap and tacky looking.
Do the leds result in the sticks being shorter than without? I.e. is the stick movement/travel impacted due to the led and led spacers you have installed? (I am a pincher)
A little bit, but you can just unscrew the stick ends a turn or two.
@@WhirlyBloke would you say this makes any difference unnoticeable to the original, in terms of stick travel?
I'm going to buy the rotorriot edition boxer and it comes with the ag01 gimbals (which is great) and the white LEDs installed (which I am not fussed about, aside from the affect on the gimbal length and stick travel)...
@@Ricpow80AkaNagamooto I can't notice any difference.
@@WhirlyBloke thank you 👍 I'm buying it now!
@@Ricpow80AkaNagamooto Enjoy it.
can you adjust the brightness?
Unfortunately not, but they don't look as bright in real life. The lighting in my studio and using at night does make them them look brighter than they are. It might be possible to put a resistor in series with the +ve on the cable to reduce the brightness. Thanks for watching.
Actually @slappomatthew and @@WhirlyBloke I found a way to adjust them. I made a video its in my channel. I used one of the knobs to adjust the brightness. It required very simple solder job.
125 pounds for the 20 dollar more transparent edition? I'm pretty sure I paid more in the UK a few months ago for just the normal version (elrs) from the uk distributor (hobbbyrc)?
Prices will fluctuate with exchange rates. My prices are based on what RadioMaster list them for on their website. Sometimes dealer prices will be higher or lower.
Hello, I have a black version, I bought a transparent cover but I can't remove the motherboard, it grabs the top, does anyone know how to remove it?
you need to bend the top side of the case outwards a little
otherwise the board gets hung up on the audio connector
i had the same problem ^^
and unhook the speaker cable before you remove the board