Check out this video of us pushing the limits of the loader BEFORE raising the pressures: ruclips.net/video/TCGk0j2Q7GY/видео.html Hydraulic Pressure Guage: amzn.to/3RFbE2i Complete Shim kit: amzn.to/3yV2B4G Shims: amzn.to/3PkeCb1
Your first videos made me wonder about your reasons for doing them. I now see you really are a dedicated Kubota user wanting to help others understand their machine. Thank you for sharing what you did as well as the cautions. I’m impressed and looking forward to the real world tests. Mahalo from Maui Hi.
I have a 2022 bx23s. My stock pressure was 1650psi. I used all the shims that came in my kit and I went up to 2150. Definitely a big difference in lifting capacity, but now my controls are super sensitive. Before it was really easy to feather the controls and operate very smoothly, now it’s jerky like my in-laws green machine. Oh well, always a trade off. Once I’m done with what I’m doing that I needed the extra lifting capacity from the loader I may return it to stock.
I know this is an older video and I am a subscriber and was just going through some older videos that I didn’t see, ok I’m 52 I may have forgotten. I hear your looking for a bigger tractor. I have a B2601 and thought what’s different with that and the LX2610. Well come to find out not much. Loader cylinders same, rear end same, plate form same and goes on and on. Now it lifts more, but some shims in mine it’s close now. Whats better well Better seat, 1” more clearance, digital gauges, bigger pump, bigger tires, bigger price, ok maybe not the price Anyway this is just something I found out and wanted to share. I thought it was surprising how close the two tractors were. Love your show. Can’t wait to see what you do to the bigger tractor. If you get one.
Great great comment! So I am for sure keeping the BX, but I am 95% certain I’m also going to get a bigger tractor. I am doing more and more work with logs and I need more lift capacity. I would love to get another Kubota from Davis Equipment, but the Kubotas just are not competitive when it comes to lift capacity for price. I am going to have several videos about the tractors I’m considering over the next couple months and then I will buy. Thanks for the information!
Good video, Lucas. You broke it down and showed how inexpensive and easy it is to get more lift and power out of your tractor hydraulics. 💪 Looking forward to the seat of the pants test!
Just a heads up you need to watch using that power beyond line. That makes a loop an with it disconnected it starves the hydraulic pump an it can an will burn the pump up. My local dealer has pictures posted in the parts department of the damage several people have done using that line cause they run it too long unhooked. That pump isn’t cheap.
Yeah absolutely, based on what my dealer told me at delivery time when they showed me how to add and remove the hoe, it’s actually worse than that. Take it with a grain of salt but they claimed that running the tractor with that hose removed would deadhead the pump! Not 100% sure that’s true (does it just force all the pump output through the PRV?) but I did actually blow that loopback line at one point and lost all ability to do anything with the loader also so I’m fairly sure that line isn’t just a return to the sump. Trying to raise the loader when the line blew caused it to spray hard instead of dribble. All the flow seems to go through that hose first.
Good point on positioning he cap. But, I’m not sure your adjustment effects the backhoe. I upped my BX25 to 2000 psi some years ago and for sure it increases what the loader will lift. However, the backhoe has its own valve block with a separate tank return line so it may very well have its own pressure relief valve separate from the main relief valve. I don’t know for sure, but have always wondered since I don’t feel the same increase digging with the backhoe as lifting with the FEL. Someone with a technical or repair manual could check to be certain.
I don’t have definitive proof yet, but I did read that there is only one PRV on the BX23S. I also do not see anywhere on the valve block where it is integrated. I intend to just do a real world test adjusting the pressure to determine an answer. Stay tuned and thank you for the comment. 👍👊
Great video, I have the B2320 with the backhoe and have been wanting to get a little more power. Now that I see how easy it is to turn it up I will have to get a gauge and check it. Thanks!
Thank you for the information, very helpful. This should help save on a expensive repair bill from kubota. Will this improve the transmission functions? Seems like mine does not move forward as it once did. I am worried I may need an expensive transmission repair... Thanks.
I sure will! I can tell everything moves a little quicker already. I will be documenting a dig soon. I may even do some comparison by turning it back down. It is super simple to adjust!
The factory pressure setting are in place to keep you from doing damage to hoses, hydraulic cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Find the maximum recommended pressures and DO NOT exceed that pressure or you may cost yourself a very large repair bill. Bear in mind, damage to the hydraulic pump occurs slowly over time and may not be noticeable in the short term.
Idk what this machine is spec at. But our is a 2501 and it specs at 2400psi. I have to order the shims to get there. Running them at the teccommenddd settings does not hurt them. And they are obviously made to be adjusted when needed. Furthermore many many times if you take the time and check the part numbers the same part will be used on a different model and will have way different performance. For example my little tractor engine on a non emission motor is 15 hp more. It’s literally the exact same tractor. Only difference is the injection pump has shims to decrease injection and a timing change.
Thanks for this information. My question is how would you balance the hydro pressure more evenly between the backhoe left stick functions and the right stick functions? My left stick will swing the backhoe left/right quite vigorously to where it almost knocks me off the tractor. Raising the boom up and down is quite fast as well. But right stick functions such as raising and lowering the dipper and curling the bucket is slow and lethargic. I feel the pressure between the two stick control valves is not equal . I've asked my dealer about this and they don't seem to know how I could make any adjustment.
It has less to do with the pressures and more to do with the geometry of the machine. Sizing of the cylinders and where the pins are, that kind of thing.
I'm going to have to try that. Here in New Hampshire, when I dig a hole I get more rocks than dirt out of the hole. When I encounter a large rock I end up digging a much larger hole than a fence post needs. Just to get the rock out. If I had more pressure, maybe I could just lift out the rock and not have to dig around it so much.
I did this on my BX 1870 a while back. I found that the cold pressure vs. the hot pressure differed. Hot went up about 110 psi. Metal expands when hot and it looks like something expanding (pressure relief bolt?) causes more spring pressure. Not everything changes the same to compensate.
I don’t know for sure, but somewhere around 30ftlb also, if you tighten it more or less it will change the pressure so when testing make sure you always torque to the same setting.
Well, I reckon the First thing everybody needs to know is when altering these machines /systems is that the guarantee is out of the window, furthermore altering these pressures gives you a personal liability in case anything happening to you or somebody else.
Not exactly. They would essentially have to prove that what you did caused the problem. If your injection pump dies and you boosted the pressure, they'd have a hard time proving that caused the issue. Now, if you blow out a hydraulic fitting then yeah.
Definitely interested to see some field results! Makes you wonder what kind of safety margin Kubota puts on their operating pressures. I’ve thought about adjusting the relief pressure on my excavator, but I’m hard enough on it. 😅 - Samuel
Lol. Yeah, I could really do some damage with full size equipment! I’ve read about guys running 2400psi. I am pretty rough so I figure 2k was enough. My warranty has expired anyway so I’m on the hook if I break it. 😂
Wow I didn't know you could change the pressure that easy! I would be afraid to increase mine because of how hard I am on things. Something would break. I loved all the disclaimers lol. I'm really interested to see how much 200 psi changes how it handles.
Great Info: I want to purchase the Flat face male coupler to go in one of the loader female coupler on BX23s, 1/4" NPT for Gauge but what size do I need for the other end is it also a 1/4"? Anyone know? Thx
Thought it was to be checked at full throttle, but it makes sense to check it at operating rpms cause you are not going to run it on full throttle for most things
Hope you never have to have any warranty work done. Once they see the paint has been broke around the pressure relief bolt, your warranty is done right on the spot after the investigations. EDIT: just to be clear on the subject, i know 3 people that did this, they tried to have front end loader items replaced due to the tractor being over worked for its capacity all because they brought the pressure up. There is a reason kubota set the pressure around 1750max psi. And also, watch for oil leaks to start happening when you jack up the pressure.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead Lucas, you are one of the better ones who has actually gave a full disclosure on it. Thumbs up for that brother. Keep it under 2,000psi, you`ll likely be fine. Anything above that will make the hydraulics very jumpy and harder to control smoothly. Being jumpy actually slows you down because you have to be more careful with it. Do remember, and keep in mind, that your steering runs of that same single stage pump.
You are wrong. Warranty is for replacing defective parts. Changing the pressure has nothing to do with warranty. Stupid Salesmen and Dealers (and Corporate Kubota) will throw any EXCUSE to avoid warranty work. Dealers will adjust the pressure for you, especially when the pressure is below specs. I do not have warranty on my 2010 BX25, but I broke the FEL frame (defective welding- manufacturing flaw), broke the differential lock twice (undersized locking pins- manufacturing flaw) and I bent the dipperstick ( using excessive leverage), not defective. I did all my own fixes, because I can. I own a piece of equipment to accomplish tasks, not fret about warranty. If you can not afford to operate your machine, don't buy it.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out this video of us pushing the limits of the loader BEFORE raising the pressures: ruclips.net/video/TCGk0j2Q7GY/видео.html
Hydraulic Pressure Guage: amzn.to/3RFbE2i
Complete Shim kit: amzn.to/3yV2B4G
Shims: amzn.to/3PkeCb1
Your first videos made me wonder about your reasons for doing them. I now see you really are a dedicated Kubota user wanting to help others understand their machine. Thank you for sharing what you did as well as the cautions. I’m impressed and looking forward to the real world tests. Mahalo from Maui Hi.
I have a 2022 bx23s. My stock pressure was 1650psi. I used all the shims that came in my kit and I went up to 2150. Definitely a big difference in lifting capacity, but now my controls are super sensitive. Before it was really easy to feather the controls and operate very smoothly, now it’s jerky like my in-laws green machine. Oh well, always a trade off. Once I’m done with what I’m doing that I needed the extra lifting capacity from the loader I may return it to stock.
That is true. It does make the controls way more sensitive.
I put my arm on the rest to do more sensitive adjustments. Keeps me from being jerky.
I know this is an older video and I am a subscriber and was just going through some older videos that I didn’t see, ok I’m 52 I may have forgotten.
I hear your looking for a bigger tractor. I have a B2601 and thought what’s different with that and the LX2610. Well come to find out not much. Loader cylinders same, rear end same, plate form same and goes on and on.
Now it lifts more, but some shims in mine it’s close now. Whats better well Better seat, 1” more clearance, digital gauges, bigger pump, bigger tires, bigger price, ok maybe not the price Anyway this is just something I found out and wanted to share. I thought it was surprising how close the two tractors were. Love your show. Can’t wait to see what you do to the bigger tractor. If you get one.
Great great comment! So I am for sure keeping the BX, but I am 95% certain I’m also going to get a bigger tractor. I am doing more and more work with logs and I need more lift capacity. I would love to get another Kubota from Davis Equipment, but the Kubotas just are not competitive when it comes to lift capacity for price.
I am going to have several videos about the tractors I’m considering over the next couple months and then I will buy.
Thanks for the information!
Good video, Lucas. You broke it down and showed how inexpensive and easy it is to get more lift and power out of your tractor hydraulics. 💪 Looking forward to the seat of the pants test!
Thanks, PG! I am too! I can tell by the speed of the backhoe that it is improved. I’m planning a dig soon!
Just a heads up you need to watch using that power beyond line. That makes a loop an with it disconnected it starves the hydraulic pump an it can an will burn the pump up. My local dealer has pictures posted in the parts department of the damage several people have done using that line cause they run it too long unhooked. That pump isn’t cheap.
Thanks for the heads up!
Yeah absolutely, based on what my dealer told me at delivery time when they showed me how to add and remove the hoe, it’s actually worse than that. Take it with a grain of salt but they claimed that running the tractor with that hose removed would deadhead the pump! Not 100% sure that’s true (does it just force all the pump output through the PRV?) but I did actually blow that loopback line at one point and lost all ability to do anything with the loader also so I’m fairly sure that line isn’t just a return to the sump. Trying to raise the loader when the line blew caused it to spray hard instead of dribble. All the flow seems to go through that hose first.
Good video
The gage is oil filled water could freeze.
Good point on positioning he cap. But, I’m not sure your adjustment effects the backhoe. I upped my BX25 to 2000 psi some years ago and for sure it increases what the loader will lift. However, the backhoe has its own valve block with a separate tank return line so it may very well have its own pressure relief valve separate from the main relief valve. I don’t know for sure, but have always wondered since I don’t feel the same increase digging with the backhoe as lifting with the FEL. Someone with a technical or repair manual could check to be certain.
I don’t have definitive proof yet, but I did read that there is only one PRV on the BX23S. I also do not see anywhere on the valve block where it is integrated. I intend to just do a real world test adjusting the pressure to determine an answer. Stay tuned and thank you for the comment. 👍👊
Great video, I have the B2320 with the backhoe and have been wanting to get a little more power. Now that I see how easy it is to turn it up I will have to get a gauge and check it. Thanks!
Thanks, I haven’t researched the B series to see if it is the same, but I’m guessing it is at least similar. Good luck.
Thank you for the information, very helpful. This should help save on a expensive repair bill from kubota. Will this improve the transmission functions? Seems like mine does not move forward as it once did. I am worried I may need an expensive transmission repair... Thanks.
It is my understanding that the hydrostatic has a separate pump so the PRV doesn’t affect the transmission. I do not know that for certain…
excellent explicative and accurate video, thanks a bunch man !
Please give an update on the digging please!
I sure will! I can tell everything moves a little quicker already. I will be documenting a dig soon. I may even do some comparison by turning it back down. It is super simple to adjust!
I noticed a car hoist in the background what brand is it and how do you like it and where did you pick it up from?
Nice little tractor. Very well explained my FRIEND!
Thanks, Buddy! Hope all is well on the homestead!
The factory pressure setting are in place to keep you from doing damage to hoses, hydraulic cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Find the maximum recommended pressures and DO NOT exceed that pressure or you may cost yourself a very large repair bill. Bear in mind, damage to the hydraulic pump occurs slowly over time and may not be noticeable in the short term.
Increased mine to 2400 psi and zero issues in 200 hours of use!
Idk what this machine is spec at. But our is a 2501 and it specs at 2400psi. I have to order the shims to get there. Running them at the teccommenddd settings does not hurt them. And they are obviously made to be adjusted when needed. Furthermore many many times if you take the time and check the part numbers the same part will be used on a different model and will have way different performance. For example my little tractor engine on a non emission motor is 15 hp more. It’s literally the exact same tractor. Only difference is the injection pump has shims to decrease injection and a timing change.
If you want to test right away I need a footing and slab prep work done for screened in porch 😁
😂 I was thinking about buying sacks of concrete for a test and then using them to make a slab or something…
Thanks for this information. My question is how would you balance the hydro pressure more evenly between the backhoe left stick functions and the right stick functions? My left stick will swing the backhoe left/right quite vigorously to where it almost knocks me off the tractor. Raising the boom up and down is quite fast as well. But right stick functions such as raising and lowering the dipper and curling the bucket is slow and lethargic. I feel the pressure between the two stick control valves is not equal . I've asked my dealer about this and they don't seem to know how I could make any adjustment.
I just don’t really know the answer to that. I’m sorry…
It has less to do with the pressures and more to do with the geometry of the machine. Sizing of the cylinders and where the pins are, that kind of thing.
I have often thought about this but knowing me I would blow something up. Good info though. Take care and stay safe.
I figure if I break it, I’ll fix it. 🤷🏼♂️👍
I'm going to have to try that. Here in New Hampshire, when I dig a hole I get more rocks than dirt out of the hole. When I encounter a large rock I end up digging a much larger hole than a fence post needs. Just to get the rock out. If I had more pressure, maybe I could just lift out the rock and not have to dig around it so much.
That was essentially what I was after too. I can say with certainty that it is a different machine. I am much happier with it now.
Great video! Really enjoying the content. What was the conclusion???
I’ve been running it like this for a while now and I’ve noticed a solid improvement across the board. Well worth doing.
Great vid. Thanks for the detailed info. I have been wanting to do my BX25d for a long time.
Glad you found it helpful! Good luck!
Great video Lucas👍You explained it very well. Thanks for the video 😁👍🚜💨🍳
Thanks, Mitch! I appreciate you watching.
Whoa, how long has Kubota been putting flat-faced fittings on the BX? Had no idea. That's nice.
Hows it doing since you raised the pressure? Have you had any problems? I’m thinking of doing this to my box.
No issues at all. I tried to remain conservative and I would recommend that, but I can tell a big difference in performance.
How much improvement did you feel in the hydraulics?
Night and day difference.
In the loader and the backhoe? I’ve been thinking about doing mine, I got 90 hours on it and I’ve had it two months. Gotta love these little tractors
@@joehammel3007 I can tell in the backhoe as well.
What was your pressure before adding shims to get it up to 2000 psi?
If I remember right I was somewhere around 1750 or 1800 stock.
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead ty for getting back to me
that was very help full, thanks.
Glad you found it helpful!
I did this on my BX 1870 a while back. I found that the cold pressure vs. the hot pressure differed. Hot went up about 110 psi. Metal expands when hot and it looks like something expanding (pressure relief bolt?) causes more spring pressure. Not everything changes the same to compensate.
This is a good point! I haven’t got back to check my pressures hot.
What is the torque spec of that cap? What is should one shoot for to torque that bad boy. I dont want to damage it and I dont obviously want it loose.
I don’t know for sure, but somewhere around 30ftlb also, if you tighten it more or less it will change the pressure so when testing make sure you always torque to the same setting.
Well, I reckon the First thing everybody needs to know is when altering these machines /systems is that the guarantee is out of the window, furthermore altering these pressures gives you a personal liability in case anything happening to you or somebody else.
Not exactly. They would essentially have to prove that what you did caused the problem. If your injection pump dies and you boosted the pressure, they'd have a hard time proving that caused the issue. Now, if you blow out a hydraulic fitting then yeah.
Definitely interested to see some field results! Makes you wonder what kind of safety margin Kubota puts on their operating pressures. I’ve thought about adjusting the relief pressure on my excavator, but I’m hard enough on it. 😅 - Samuel
Lol. Yeah, I could really do some damage with full size equipment! I’ve read about guys running 2400psi. I am pretty rough so I figure 2k was enough. My warranty has expired anyway so I’m on the hook if I break it. 😂
Where did u get the coupler and do u know the part number? Do they go my the year or by the model when getting the coupler?
There are Amazon links to everything you need in the description.
Wow I didn't know you could change the pressure that easy! I would be afraid to increase mine because of how hard I am on things. Something would break. I loved all the disclaimers lol. I'm really interested to see how much 200 psi changes how it handles.
Me too! I am making plans for a test!
Thanks for the rundown! Nice Bug you have there! Any interest in selling it?
Lol Can’t part with that one, it’s my wife’s. I’m rebuilding the engine right now. 👍👊
If you use the swivel foot valve adjuster screws you'll find the set lasts longer. Great design! Thanks, again!!
@@lawrencebrown4017 Nice! I will look into them.
I don't own that tractor, but have you found any information on increasing the flow?
I haven’t, but to increase flow I think you would have to change the gear ratio on the pump. If possible, it would likely be a major process.
Great Info: I want to purchase the Flat face male coupler to go in one of the loader female coupler on BX23s, 1/4" NPT for Gauge but what size do I need for the other end is it also a 1/4"? Anyone know? Thx
Good stuff
Thanks
At what RPMs did you run the engine to take the measurements
Check the 10:00 mark…
Thought it was to be checked at full throttle, but it makes sense to check it at operating rpms cause you are not going to run it on full throttle for most things
@@danm8662 yeah, I don’t know what they recommend, but I thought it made sense to just check it where I run mine. 🤷🏼♂️
Do you know how much more it will lift with the bucket? Sorry if you said it and I missed it
Not yet! 😊 That is in the works. I am planning a test. Stay tuned! 👊
Great video, thanks
Thanks for watching!
You need to go to 2200 to make any difference. I have been through this.
I can tell a huge difference adjusting to where I did. It all depends on what you started at.
Hope you never have to have any warranty work done. Once they see the paint has been broke around the pressure relief bolt, your warranty is done right on the spot after the investigations.
EDIT: just to be clear on the subject, i know 3 people that did this, they tried to have front end loader items replaced due to the tractor being over worked for its capacity all because they brought the pressure up. There is a reason kubota set the pressure around 1750max psi. And also, watch for oil leaks to start happening when you jack up the pressure.
Well, me too, my friend. That’s the choice one has to make for themselves. Thanks for watching!
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead
Lucas, you are one of the better ones who has actually gave a full disclosure on it. Thumbs up for that brother. Keep it under 2,000psi, you`ll likely be fine. Anything above that will make the hydraulics very jumpy and harder to control smoothly. Being jumpy actually slows you down because you have to be more careful with it. Do remember, and keep in mind, that your steering runs of that same single stage pump.
I appreciate that! I sure don’t know it all, but I try to share good information. I only want to help. Don’t want to cause anyone to break anything. 👍
You are wrong. Warranty is for replacing defective parts. Changing the pressure has nothing to do with warranty. Stupid Salesmen and Dealers (and Corporate Kubota) will throw any EXCUSE to avoid warranty work. Dealers will adjust the pressure for you, especially when the pressure is below specs. I do not have warranty on my 2010 BX25, but I broke the FEL frame (defective welding- manufacturing flaw), broke the differential lock twice (undersized locking pins- manufacturing flaw) and I bent the dipperstick ( using excessive leverage), not defective. I did all my own fixes, because I can. I own a piece of equipment to accomplish tasks, not fret about warranty. If you can not afford to operate your machine, don't buy it.
pro tip , Kabota sells rattle cans of the factory grey enamel paint
I wonder if a dime will work LOL sand it down a little bit
I actually read that somewhere so
I tried! Diameter is quite a bit too big. I didnt need anything near that thick either.