Filling Guitar Damage with Super Glue
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- In this video we have some sealer tear out and light wood damage to fill before I can get started with the fresh sealer and nitrocellulose lacquer paint job on this guitar. This process is pretty straightforward as long as you have the right stuff.
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Thanks for the tip, in the past I’ve used a tiny dab of wood glue and matching wood dust mixed to fill imperfections but always for natural finishes. This is much easier for painted ones!
Can’t wait for you to show the Texas Toaster strudels up! Love the all in fun competition!
Heck yeah!
Tip:
Keep the tip applicators in a small bottle with acetone and use teflon tape on bottle before resealing.. then keep in refrigerator as you mentioned.
They're solvent proof enough for that?
@@BradAngove hmm, acetone is actually an ingredient in many superglue accelerants! Alcohol is another common ingredient in accelerants. Be careful with the use of accelerants, they can damage or "haze" plastics and painted finishes, sometimes instantaneously.
@@BradAngove Yes, sir ! Probably same plastic as the CA bottle.
Teflon tape seems like a reasonable idea. For those unfamiliar with it, you will find it in the plumbing department of any hardware store. It doesn't have any adhesive on it, and you're supposed to stretch it slightly by pulling as you wrap it around a piece of threaded pipe or a threaded fitting.
I imagine the air line Teflon tape would be appropriate. The gas line grade stuff might be too thick, although I may resist the solvents better.
Soon as I figure out where to put it my mini fridge will be full of beer too
Use it to support one end of the work bench haha.
Got the beer but its crowding up my big fridge.
Great tip Brad, thanks buddy Cheers
You can use CA as a finish on natural or dyed wood, also. The first coat sinks into the wood, then it stays on the top. Sand it up to 2500 and it looks like glass and feels more like a lacquer than poly. And easy touch-up repairs when necessary.
The stuff is lachrymonious, but the fumes are harmless.
Ya, superglue finishes are interesting. Relatively durable as well.
Nice timing, Brad! I just accidentally sanded a gash into my rosewood fretboard while I was leveling and crowning frets. It's not anything that would cause an issue but I know it's there. So it needs to be fixed lol
I love when the timing works out on these
It's for reasons like that, that I use a post-it note on each side of the fret when filing and polishing the frets. I got that trick from Jerry Rosa from the "Rosa String Works" channel.
Super Glue. Always one more use.
Very true haha
I like Bondo Glazing putty for those kinds of small fills.
That's a good choice too. As long as you don't need something clear of course.
Have you tried sprinkling you CA glue with baking soda? It reacts with the glue, hardening it quickly and sets harder, much harder, than glue by itself.
I've never tried that. Very interesting.
That makes sense. I always wondered why almost anything added to CA glue tends to accelerate the drying process. Then I read somewhere that all CA glue formulations are made more or less acidic so that its working time can be retarded down to a realistic human time frame. As stated in the video, the drying process is exothermic, and the heat produced increases exponentially with volume. I've applied CA finishes on dyed and painted wood surfaces on hot sunny days, and then sometimes feel my gloves getting really hot and the surface even starts smoking (steaming? Not sure which) if I rub too much on in one go. I think I should also add this: while CA glue can indeed get you a very nice and hard finish in a comparatively tiny amount of time, trust me when I say that the downsides can put you in hospital even quicker if you're not careful. That's no fun, and I have since learned to love my respirator.
Yes, the respirator is definitely key when using larger volumes.
You can make mix your baking soda with water to a paste consistency along with food coloring.
Spread it thin on a plate, let it dry , crumble back into a powder and you have colored baking soda.
If you make small batches of the basic primary colors plus black and brown you can than mix with each other to create other colors and shades.
BTW, it hardens almost instantly when you add the glue so practice before you use it on a serious project.
Nice one, I remember using super glue as finish on one of my experimental projects, I could spot some holes after the paint coat and filled it all with super glue, works great.. just be careful with the fumes
Yeah the fumes can get to you if you're using a lot of it for sure.
If you wait 10-15 seconds before you spray the accelerator the CA will stay clear and not cloud up. Another tip, if you need to fill a deep gash or replace a piece of something broken (especially in plastic or ceramic) you can sprinkle baking soda then put CA glue and it will harden into something you can sand and shape to fill or even create a broken off corner of something.
I'm going to have to try this baking soda trick that is very cool.
@@BradAngove ,the trick is to use thin layers of baking soda, and water-thin superglue. Otherwise the glue hardens the outer shell of the glue into a crust and the inner layers stay powdery. People have actually repaired a broken nut on their guitars with this stuff. Build up the layers "slowly*. Sprinkling the powder over the liquid glue might work better in some cases.
the best thing I`ve found to unblock a superglue nozzle (I use the thick stuff at work & one or two might have followed me home)! is a guitar string, usually a G string!
It gets the job done for sure!
FYI you can also keep your peanut butter in the fridge to keep it from collecting all of the peanut oil in the peanut butter. You know....when you open the jar and there's oily liquid laying on top of your PB. Keeping it in the fridge keeps that from happening. 🤷♂️
Don't know if that's a problem in Canada but it is down here in Louisiana where it's very hot and very humid.
Interesting. I did not know that. I keep my house pretty cold though haha. It also helps keep my wine aging at the right pace.
I’ve used this same stuff filling in dings and such when repainting poly finished guitars. I find that I have to apply several coats because the stuff shrinks down. The best thing about this product is that it’s really watery and the worst thing about it is that it’s really watery. Capillary action makes it fill in everywhere, but it easily runs down the side when it’s applied to the sides or horns.
You may want to consider using the thicker one.
You can get UV cure CA, so when you get a run or a drip, you can easily wipe it off before putting it under a lamp or sunlight.
Great tip thanks
Glad you liked it.
@@BradAngove Very good timing. I am working on that issue now.
Cool B!!
Thanks J
I have a shecter thats like 6 or 7 years old or something like that. The laquer had a crack at the neck where you see them a lot and by the jack plate cover coming out from he screws. Good old super glue, wet sand paper and polish. Cant tell it was ever a thing unless you get the microscope out lol
Excellent!
I am very excited to see my guitar's re-finishing get it's own set of videos... starting with how to sort out my mistakes lol
Glad to hear it haha.
Gotta watch blowing out those glue nozzles! It blows back!
🤔Super glue blow back 😂😂😂 That reminds me of making faces as a kid and my mother used to tell me, "One of these days, your face is going to get stuck like that!"🤣🤣🤣
Have you got a bloody sixth sense? How do you know I dinged the new telecaster in band rehearsal last week? ( nail varnish done the job)
Glad to here the varnish worked. That’s a good option for touch ups in a lacquer finish.
@@BradAngoveIt was the only thing I could think of ( thin polly finish) to touch it up. I just drop filled over a few days and then sanded it back. I had to re touch up one part but its almost 100%. I didn't want to start sanding it just to do a small ding and in a year I won't care much as it will have many battle scars when we are allowed to play live again!
Cool advice. So what if you have a ding in a finished guitar with acrylic varnish? Can you put ca glue and sand?
To repair spots? Yes, just be careful not to overdue it with the glue all at once because it’s acetone based and can harm the acrylic.
@@BradAngove Thank you!
Hi Brad, I want a heavy polyurethane finish on a maple bass fingerboard. Thinking of using two-pack furniture/ flooring grade and then cutting free the fret-tops. Also will only cover board and headstock; masking off the back for a tru-oil feel here . Whad'yer'reckon? Do-able? Crazy / Loco?
All of the above haha. I’m sure it’s doable. You’ll find cutting it away a bit challenging, but not impossible. I’ve never heard of someone doing that before though. A bit crazy... seems interesting to me.
Can you use any superglue? As long as they don't turn foggy white after hardening? Or must you use the products that are specified as “luthier-grade”? Does it have any difference, considering the much higher price of the “luthier-grade” glue, and I won’t be using it constantly?
You should be able to use essentially any superglue for this step.
👍
can i do that AFTER sealing? asking because i just sealed a guitar body and then found some imperfections.
Yes you can
I'd wondered about CA accelerators. Thanks.
They can be very helpful in many circumstances.
Have you had any trouble with spraying nitrocellulose lacquer over Starbond superglue? It sounds like you were planning to finish this guitar with nitro so I was wondering what your experience was. I’m about to try the same. Thanks!!
I finished it with nitro. No issues.
@@BradAngove , thank you!
is that okay with fretboard chips? im regretting my guitar now and I've got terrible chips when i remove my frets
Yes, it can be used for that. Your frets must be glued in aggressively.
@@BradAngove i used cyanoacrylate glue there's a spill on my fret i know how to remove it.
Hey Brad, I'm getting ready to do my first build. I'll be using rattle cans for the finish. Should I use sray paint like from home depot such as rustoleum or should I use nitrocellulose paints. Being my first time, I didn't know where a beginner should start. Thanx in advance
Can you tell me what type of finish you’re aiming for? Like what look? That will help inform the decision.
@@BradAngove I'm going for a gloss finish, dark grey with black racing stripes. And gonna attempt to do the neck satin. I hope this answers your question lol.
I've seen your videos with Dupli-color paint which looks awesome, that an option too I assume?
Ya, the duplicolor or something like rustoleum are probably your best options. I don’t see any reason to go with nitrocellulose from what you’re telling me.
@@BradAngove awesome man, thanks alot for the response! If it turns out good maybe I can leave a picture. Now go burn some toast in this contest lol. Love the channel, thanx again.
how would you fix a dent left when removing paint, if you plan to stain and oil the guitar? I modded a cheap LTD and since it was my first project really didn´t care about a few dents on the wood, but I would like to know since I have a telecaster which is going to suffer some mods! Are woodfillter stainable??
If its just a little dent, put a damp cloth over it and steam that spot using your soldering iron. The steam will expand the wood.
@@BradAngove thank you very much!
Hey brad do I have to use sealer after taking off the old paint ? It's sunburst and I can see the wood and I'm thinking to paint my guitar white please help ❤️
There's a really good chance your guitar has sealer on it already. I found that chemical paint strippers don't remove the sealer, from my experience anyway.
If you remove the paint chemically and find that drops of water bead up instead of soaking into the wood your guitar is sealed.
I actually used this method when I stripped a guitar down to bare wood. I'd wipe a damp rag over the guitar body to see where the sealer was still hanging on.
Indeed, your guitar likely has some poly sealer still on it. You should be able to sand and go ahead with your white. You can test by wetting like valvenator said, and if you are worried you can always apply a coat of sealer first to be on the safe side.
@@valvenator thank you so much❤️❤️
@@BradAngove thank you so much brad ❤️❤️
Could anyone give some recommendations on an airbrush or spray gun to use specifically for guitars?
I'm not trying to go full overkill on the spray pattern and I'm also not trying to go way too small.
Ideally something that has a pattern similar to spray paint.
What kind of airbrush work are you doing? Take a look at my video on my favorite mini gun. That’s great for guitars. I have a link in the description to Warwick with a discount code. It’s the 878SHE.
Brad Angove Just spraying and clearing guitars. Nothing small or technical. Thanks for the help!
The paasche talon set that I have linked up one of the lists in the amazon link in the description is very versatile. It’s not super high quality, but it gets the job done and has several nozzle sizes for different types of work. It was my first airbrush and I still use it for some stuff.
Big thumbs up for the 99% beer fridge comment
What are garages for if not woodwork and beer?...
You said BEER!!!
One of the most used words in my vocabulary.
Literally what I’m in the middle of doing right now.
I hope it’s going well
How do you REMOVE super glue from a finished guitar?
What kind of finish is on the guitar?
@@BradAngove Not sure, but it’s an acoustic.
Did the glue damage it or just stick to it?
@@BradAngove I can’t tell. However - I just found out it is hot glue, not super glue. Better???
Actually I’ve never seen hot glue end up on a guitar before. But you should be able to just pick that off. It doesn’t bind nearly as hard as super glue.
You don''t need to keep cyanoacrylate in the fidge - just chuck it in an airtight jar with some bicarbonate of soda - lasts forever!
Or just chuck it in the fridge...
@@BradAngove , refrigerating super glue that has already been opened will cause condensation inside the container and may *shorten* , not extend, its life. This is according to the glue manufacturing companies! An airtight outer container with a couple packets of desiccant such as silica gel would make more sense.
I cringed when you blew through the nozzle. you should ALWAYS wear safety glasses when working with cyanoacrylate glues because tiny droplets of it can be thrown into the air and end up in your eyes. Most people don't realize it but CA glues can be catalyzed by moisture (before commercial accelerators were available we breathed on it so that the moisture would make it cure faster) so you can imagine what a tiny droplet would do if it contacted your eye.
& yes, eye protection is an absolute necessity if you are going to breathe on CA to accelerate it.
I’ve gotten superglue in my eye before. It wasn’t ideal.
Please sort out your dank meme distorted mic moments!
that mic needs to be further away from your throat. on headphones the volume is all over the place
Understood. I’ll try to find a different place for it if I can.
@@BradAngove You can safely clip it about an inch or two below your collar to get a good sound from it. Generally right below your mouth when looking forward will be the best, but a little to either side is fine.
At 100K subscribers, RUclips requires you to hire someone to operate a boom mic. I know the minimum wage in Canada is like 100 Canadian dollars per hour, so I'll be upping my Patreon contribution a few cents to help offset the cost.
Haha savage. I’ll just start running around with a handheld mic like a game show host or something.
You can do quite a bit in post with compressors and eq. I have to often fix bad mic placement in screencast recordings. But the clipping when you turn your head to the mic sadly can't really be fixed.
superglue in the fridge
It will join printer cartridges
Why not just use actual filler?
This is faster, has the capillary action that allows it to flow into small areas, and is clear (if that’s relevant). To really answer your question though, you can totally use normal filler.