I have qidi max3, q1 and have always been happy with their machines and after sales service. Recently purchased a Plus4 and it looks like they have greatly improved the machine again!
Thank you for putting out this video. However, I truly don't understand the obsession with ball bearing filament spool holders.I printed one for my QIDI Max3 early on. The lack of "some" friction on the spool caused the spool to unwind when the printer is making fast acceleration moves. The unwinding led to jamming when the filament wrapped around the base of the spool holder. I removed mine and printed a fixed, non-rotating spool holder. Works great. If an extruder can't pull filament on a spool that's sitting on a non-ball-bearing holder, there's a problem with a weak extruder. A ball bearing spool holder is simply not an upgrade. In my experience, it looks nice, but it's a downgrade.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this. I’ve found that minimizing friction in the filament path is beneficial when printing sensitive flexible materials like TPE. Even a tiny amount of friction can cause visible inconsistencies on the surface. Yes, it could be due to an inefficient extruder, but using frictionless spool holders-and sometimes even skipping the runout sensor-can improve surface quality on these types of prints. The solution I implemented for my Sovol printers makes the spool holder's friction adjustable. With an easily accessible screw (it could even be a thumb screw!), we can select the exact amount of friction needed for the project → ruclips.net/video/dXDJYcj2BRQ/видео.html The glider spool insert I show in this video also provides this flexibility. Use the insert when it’s beneficial: I’ve found it can reduce dust shed by cardboard spools, and it can even be inserted mid-print, once the spool is no longer so full that friction is needed to keep it from unwinding.
@@gerGoPrint3DI certainly agree regarding TPE. TPU 95 isn't an issue, but for low durometer TPE, I have to bypass the filament sensor, and I have a spool holder that mounts on top of the rear of the printer, to feed in the TPE directly to the extruder, and avoiding the PTFE reverse Bowden tube. As far as friction, that's one reason I've switched to 2.5mm ID tubes, rather than the 2.0mm that many use. There's less drag internally in the bends of tubing, especially where it runs along the moving cable chain.
@@ArgueForSport That's a good idea. I've had much trouble with TPE on the Q1 Pro, I will try it directly as you suggest. Might even make a video if successful giving credit to you of course.
Yes, I was also thinking about adding the same cutter to my SV08. The link to the STL is in the video description, and I show how it's printed and assembled here → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html
I made an enclosure for my SV08 out of Foam core poster board and it gets very warm, enough i had too print a new tool head cover because I was getting jams with the original from lack of ventilation.
The Q1 shares the same problem as the x-3 series: A bad unload macro. If you unload filament from an extruder, you want to leave the hotzone as fast as reliable possibe. However, after the filament have left the hotzone, you want slower speed for retraction, so the former molten part of the filament has time to cool before reaching the extruder gears - so it is not deformed by them. The solution is quite simple: Change the last line of the unload (or "unlode" as it is written in the comments of the printer.cfg) macro. On the X-3 series the line "g1 e-800 f800", retracting 8 cm with a (high) speed of f800 has to be changed to: G1 e-200 f800 (just 2cm of fast unload) G92 e0 (resetting extruder coordinate, so it does not matter if the printer uses absolute or relative coordinates) G1 e-600 f200 (retact the remaining 6 cm with a quarter of the speed) I do not have the Q1; however other users reported the "unlode" macro now is in the macros.cfg, retracts 9cm but has the same problem. So same solution should help (with e-700 in the last line) On my X-max 3 I never had problems with filament unload again. No need to cut & poo. Simply unload with the slightly modified macro. For the Qidi X-max 3 I had problems with the 4 LM1LUU bearings on z. They are quite low quality. I changed them to Misumi bearings, now the bed moves much smoother. I like both, my Qidi X-Max 3 and the SV08. The SV08 has the advantage of auto-z-offset, the Qidi has the active heated chamber. I mostly use the Qidi for ABS/ASA, the sv08 for PLA/PET-G. I converted both to Revo hotends; the SV08 also got a biqu microprobe. Both printers now have reliable first layers and print in quite good quality. So you definitly made a good choice with both the Q1 and the SV08.
@@gerGoPrint3D Actually I was inspired by Prusa's Ramping Profiles. The MMU3 (and the MMU2 before) do not use cut&poo, but sequences ramping up and down the speed of the exruder on unload. You get quite nice filament tips on unload this way. While it needed quite a bit of calibration for every filament (and well dryed filament) on the original mk3 hotend, after using a Revo hotend it works much more easy (at least for PLA, ABS and ASA, PET-G always has a bit of stringing on the tip). The integrated nozzle/heatbreak combo the Revo uses realy helps. The mk4 nozzle also has the same benefit. However, while a correct unloading ramping seqence allows flowless unloading most of the time, getting a filamentip which can flowlessly reloaded without cutting you need a standardflow nozzle. Thats the reason I changed most printers to Revo. I plan to upgrade to an ERCF in future. To do so, I want to optimice filament load/unload first. With revo I can change between highflow and standardflow nozzles... While I tinkered on my X-max 3, I discovered the bad unload macro. So while my ERCF still might take a while, at least some nice side result discovered. For the SV08 Revo: I uses the design of TheNextLayer. But I missunderstood the instructions and ordered it Aluminium-printed instead of CNC milled. After a bit of postprocessing it works, but I have to wiggle a bit on the filament on loading (tube and nozzle do not align perfectly). So not ready to add an ERCF now. However, I already plan for a Revo Voron PZ next year (also for the X-Max 3, so no z-offset needed anymore using the nozzle as a probe). The chamber heater for the Qidi Q1 pro is available as spare part on Aliexpress. Might be interesing to add it to the SV08. It uses main power, so an SSR might do it. I have to look into the schematics if there is a free thermistor input on the board or if I have to add a 3.rd MCU to control it.
how many have burns from clearing the jams? lol jeez. I've put a rubber car seal around the sharp top surround as well as I ended up with lumps missing from my hands
That's actually pretty universally applicable. If any Klipper printer has wifi issues, connecting one externally usually fixes it. I am not sure, but it might even fix printers which have trouble with 5GHz networks. You can also add extender cables to take it to a location with better reception and USB hubs if you need the USB port for others too. Internally, these printers usually just have a similar, though no brand USB adapter plugged into the RPi
Hi Gergo, John Hansknecht here. I wanted to make sure you saw my comment in last weeks video. I appreciate you showing my code to silence the SV08 fan, but I wanted to let everyone know that it isn't my code. I explained it all in the description of my video.
Hi John. Thanks for reaching out, I did miss your comment. I will update the description of my video. I lead my viewers to your video, where it will hopefully be clear to everybody. I guess this is just the nature of "word of mouth" we each can point at the person we heard this tip from.
Depends on the material we print. For PLA, PETG you need to keep it open, for ABS, ASA and other sensitive high-temp materials we have to keep it shut to keep the heat inside. If you only print PLA/PETG, I guess you could permanently detach, but the top reason to get this printer is its ability to print those more sensitive filaments. I haven't tried detaching the door, though possible it feels fragile being made of brittle plastic.
Ciao, è sempre bello vedere un tuo nuovo video😇. Si, il wi-fi è un po ballerino ma alla fine sullla mia Q1 pro si è sempre collegato, forse perchè utilizzo il loro Qidislicer. Per il porta bobina non l'ho mai montato perchè preferisco utilizzare al suo posto un essicatore di filamenti, tipo il nuovo Creality Space. Per la taglierina sono contentissimo di aver seguito il tuo consiglio, mi trovo molto bene, solo non ho stampato anche l'aggiornamento superiore del coperchio, perchè quelle rare volte che necessito di una camera chiusa, tolgo semplicemente la taglierina e taglio il filamento con il metodo tradizionale. A riguardo ho stampato anche un aggiornamento per mantenere in sospensione il coperchio, è semplice e carino, se vuoi ti mando una foto ma non so come... Per l'hotend non ho mai avuto problemi perchè ho sempre e solo utilizzato tagliarlo e non estrarlo. Grazie ed un caro saluto.
Thank you for the feedback. The Wifi is probably some compatibility issue with my Google Hubs, but I am not using the USB port anyway, and I had a spare Wifi adapter, so I am not worried about it! This is my ABS/ASA printer, so I do keep the top on the printer most of the time. But if I understand your suggestion we might not need to remove the top for PLA, it's enough if we tilt it up or raise it, so the air can get in. That's a very smart idea, I am already thinking of clever ways to implement this, either tilt it similar to bird traps, or riser-columns for the corners. My idea is to somehow make these fold out part of the current 20mm rasier frame I've already created. It's hard to explain, I hope this makes sense. Thank you for the inspiritation for this idea! Even though I am listing a few problems, I hope it shows from the video, that I am quite happy with the Q1 Pro, and I recommend it to everyone. It's just if a Sovol user buys this printer, they should be aware of the differences to spare some headaches... Let's keep in touch! 🙂
GERGO! PLEASE HELP! I HAVE 10) T300 machines and after I updated firmware to 1.5.2 I can't get a good bed mesh on any of them. I heated all the beds to 80c for 45 minutes to settle the bed then gantry level, paper z offset and bed mesh. But my first layer print is not sticking on left side and grinding the build plate on the right side... all 10 machines are the exact same result. I've tried the KPA additions through mainsail, but nothing is working. Sovol has been blowing me off, saying they'd give me $50 for my trouble... 10 machines I've been trying to fix for weeks. They are all brand new out of the box. as if $50 is what 100+ hours of my time is worth... what a slap in the face from Sovol... Can you help? Am I missing something? ANYONE? Bueller?
Have you tried rolling back to the previous version? Hopefully, with 10 machines, you’ve made an EMMC backup! If not, shoot me an email-I’ve got the old version on hand. Also, check out this video for reference: ruclips.net/video/PrC8zaVCHys/видео.html. The new firmware works fine for me, but yeah, you’ll need to redo all the calibrations-z-offset, bed mesh, and all the usual suspects. And yes, I recommended replacing their new pre-print routine with KPA, including the start and end G-codes in Orca! But I see you’ve already ventured into that whole business → ruclips.net/video/Xl8jR6yaWc8/видео.html Unfortunately, the new version doesn’t fix the faulty stock gantry leveling. I’d still recommend my z-sync via knob macro: ruclips.net/video/1St82uImQqw/видео.html, or if you’re feeling brave (and let’s be honest, you probably are at this point), you could try my ultimate upgrade: ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html. Although doing that on 10 machines... well, let’s just say Ferris would’ve taken a day off for sure! One thing that could help immediately-do the silicone spacer mod for the bed. It props up the corners and makes a huge difference. I did it early on, but haven’t made a dedicated video about it yet. The T300 is a beast, but it definitely needs tweaking to reach its potential. I do wish you’d tested the firmware on just one machine first before going all in. But hey, no judgment-we’ve all been there! At least you’ve got a path forward (and backward, your choice!), so no need to break out the so no need to break out the defibrillator just yet.
I've had QIDI printer before. Was absolutely useless and overpriced. Claimed to be awesome but wasn't. Service department are slow and take a while to get info from. Just buy a Bambu Labs printer and don't look back!
Sorry to hear that. I hope the video conveys I actually like this printer, though it has some quirks. I am yet to try a Bambu, everybody says good things of course.
@@Co4lI am extremely happy with my SV08, that said it's also a tinkerer's machine. But I am having much success with it, and it's 350mm cubed. I made a detailed comparison → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html
@@HatlessChimp1 This, for $450 is not a bad deal imho, fully enclosed, chamber heated, 350/120°C, open Klipper. We just cannot expect Bambu level service at this price point. But again, with just this much effort it is now ready for prime time.
I have qidi max3, q1 and have always been happy with their machines and after sales service. Recently purchased a Plus4 and it looks like they have greatly improved the machine again!
Thank you for putting out this video.
However, I truly don't understand the obsession with ball bearing filament spool holders.I printed one for my QIDI Max3 early on. The lack of "some" friction on the spool caused the spool to unwind when the printer is making fast acceleration moves. The unwinding led to jamming when the filament wrapped around the base of the spool holder. I removed mine and printed a fixed, non-rotating spool holder. Works great.
If an extruder can't pull filament on a spool that's sitting on a non-ball-bearing holder, there's a problem with a weak extruder. A ball bearing spool holder is simply not an upgrade. In my experience, it looks nice, but it's a downgrade.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this. I’ve found that minimizing friction in the filament path is beneficial when printing sensitive flexible materials like TPE. Even a tiny amount of friction can cause visible inconsistencies on the surface. Yes, it could be due to an inefficient extruder, but using frictionless spool holders-and sometimes even skipping the runout sensor-can improve surface quality on these types of prints.
The solution I implemented for my Sovol printers makes the spool holder's friction adjustable. With an easily accessible screw (it could even be a thumb screw!), we can select the exact amount of friction needed for the project → ruclips.net/video/dXDJYcj2BRQ/видео.html
The glider spool insert I show in this video also provides this flexibility. Use the insert when it’s beneficial: I’ve found it can reduce dust shed by cardboard spools, and it can even be inserted mid-print, once the spool is no longer so full that friction is needed to keep it from unwinding.
@@gerGoPrint3DI certainly agree regarding TPE. TPU 95 isn't an issue, but for low durometer TPE, I have to bypass the filament sensor, and I have a spool holder that mounts on top of the rear of the printer, to feed in the TPE directly to the extruder, and avoiding the PTFE reverse Bowden tube.
As far as friction, that's one reason I've switched to 2.5mm ID tubes, rather than the 2.0mm that many use. There's less drag internally in the bends of tubing, especially where it runs along the moving cable chain.
@@ArgueForSport That's a good idea. I've had much trouble with TPE on the Q1 Pro, I will try it directly as you suggest. Might even make a video if successful giving credit to you of course.
I don't have this printer, but I've never seen a filament cutter like that and I think it would be great on any printer!
Yes, I was also thinking about adding the same cutter to my SV08. The link to the STL is in the video description, and I show how it's printed and assembled here → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html
I made an enclosure for my SV08 out of Foam core poster board and it gets very warm, enough i had too print a new tool head cover because I was getting jams with the original from lack of ventilation.
The metallic side panels on the SV08 make it look stunning, but they're not ideal for thermal insulation, to say the least.
The Q1 shares the same problem as the x-3 series: A bad unload macro. If you unload filament from an extruder, you want to leave the hotzone as fast as reliable possibe. However, after the filament have left the hotzone, you want slower speed for retraction, so the former molten part of the filament has time to cool before reaching the extruder gears - so it is not deformed by them.
The solution is quite simple: Change the last line of the unload (or "unlode" as it is written in the comments of the printer.cfg) macro.
On the X-3 series the line "g1 e-800 f800", retracting 8 cm with a (high) speed of f800 has to be changed to:
G1 e-200 f800 (just 2cm of fast unload)
G92 e0 (resetting extruder coordinate, so it does not matter if the printer uses absolute or relative coordinates)
G1 e-600 f200 (retact the remaining 6 cm with a quarter of the speed)
I do not have the Q1; however other users reported the "unlode" macro now is in the macros.cfg, retracts 9cm but has the same problem. So same solution should help (with e-700 in the last line)
On my X-max 3 I never had problems with filament unload again. No need to cut & poo. Simply unload with the slightly modified macro.
For the Qidi X-max 3 I had problems with the 4 LM1LUU bearings on z. They are quite low quality. I changed them to Misumi bearings, now the bed moves much smoother.
I like both, my Qidi X-Max 3 and the SV08. The SV08 has the advantage of auto-z-offset, the Qidi has the active heated chamber. I mostly use the Qidi for ABS/ASA, the sv08 for PLA/PET-G. I converted both to Revo hotends; the SV08 also got a biqu microprobe. Both printers now have reliable first layers and print in quite good quality.
So you definitly made a good choice with both the Q1 and the SV08.
Amazing! Thank you for the tip! I will try this asap!! Makes total sense!
@@gerGoPrint3D Actually I was inspired by Prusa's Ramping Profiles. The MMU3 (and the MMU2 before) do not use cut&poo, but sequences ramping up and down the speed of the exruder on unload. You get quite nice filament tips on unload this way. While it needed quite a bit of calibration for every filament (and well dryed filament) on the original mk3 hotend, after using a Revo hotend it works much more easy (at least for PLA, ABS and ASA, PET-G always has a bit of stringing on the tip). The integrated nozzle/heatbreak combo the Revo uses realy helps. The mk4 nozzle also has the same benefit.
However, while a correct unloading ramping seqence allows flowless unloading most of the time, getting a filamentip which can flowlessly reloaded without cutting you need a standardflow nozzle. Thats the reason I changed most printers to Revo. I plan to upgrade to an ERCF in future. To do so, I want to optimice filament load/unload first. With revo I can change between highflow and standardflow nozzles...
While I tinkered on my X-max 3, I discovered the bad unload macro. So while my ERCF still might take a while, at least some nice side result discovered.
For the SV08 Revo: I uses the design of TheNextLayer. But I missunderstood the instructions and ordered it Aluminium-printed instead of CNC milled. After a bit of postprocessing it works, but I have to wiggle a bit on the filament on loading (tube and nozzle do not align perfectly). So not ready to add an ERCF now. However, I already plan for a Revo Voron PZ next year (also for the X-Max 3, so no z-offset needed anymore using the nozzle as a probe).
The chamber heater for the Qidi Q1 pro is available as spare part on Aliexpress. Might be interesing to add it to the SV08. It uses main power, so an SSR might do it. I have to look into the schematics if there is a free thermistor input on the board or if I have to add a 3.rd MCU to control it.
how many have burns from clearing the jams? lol jeez. I've put a rubber car seal around the sharp top surround as well as I ended up with lumps missing from my hands
getting used to clearing filament jams on the Q1 grrrr
Like the WiFi fix
That's actually pretty universally applicable. If any Klipper printer has wifi issues, connecting one externally usually fixes it. I am not sure, but it might even fix printers which have trouble with 5GHz networks. You can also add extender cables to take it to a location with better reception and USB hubs if you need the USB port for others too. Internally, these printers usually just have a similar, though no brand USB adapter plugged into the RPi
Hi Gergo, John Hansknecht here. I wanted to make sure you saw my comment in last weeks video. I appreciate you showing my code to silence the SV08 fan, but I wanted to let everyone know that it isn't my code. I explained it all in the description of my video.
Hi John. Thanks for reaching out, I did miss your comment. I will update the description of my video. I lead my viewers to your video, where it will hopefully be clear to everybody. I guess this is just the nature of "word of mouth" we each can point at the person we heard this tip from.
@@gerGoPrint3D I also found better PID values for that fan and posted those. It slows down the response and reduces cycling.
Does the front clear door have to stay shut, or can you leave it off? I have limited room.
Depends on the material we print. For PLA, PETG you need to keep it open, for ABS, ASA and other sensitive high-temp materials we have to keep it shut to keep the heat inside. If you only print PLA/PETG, I guess you could permanently detach, but the top reason to get this printer is its ability to print those more sensitive filaments. I haven't tried detaching the door, though possible it feels fragile being made of brittle plastic.
Ciao, è sempre bello vedere un tuo nuovo video😇. Si, il wi-fi è un po ballerino ma alla fine sullla mia Q1 pro si è sempre collegato, forse perchè utilizzo il loro Qidislicer. Per il porta bobina non l'ho mai montato perchè preferisco utilizzare al suo posto un essicatore di filamenti, tipo il nuovo Creality Space. Per la taglierina sono contentissimo di aver seguito il tuo consiglio, mi trovo molto bene, solo non ho stampato anche l'aggiornamento superiore del coperchio, perchè quelle rare volte che necessito di una camera chiusa, tolgo semplicemente la taglierina e taglio il filamento con il metodo tradizionale. A riguardo ho stampato anche un aggiornamento per mantenere in sospensione il coperchio, è semplice e carino, se vuoi ti mando una foto ma non so come... Per l'hotend non ho mai avuto problemi perchè ho sempre e solo utilizzato tagliarlo e non estrarlo. Grazie ed un caro saluto.
Thank you for the feedback. The Wifi is probably some compatibility issue with my Google Hubs, but I am not using the USB port anyway, and I had a spare Wifi adapter, so I am not worried about it! This is my ABS/ASA printer, so I do keep the top on the printer most of the time. But if I understand your suggestion we might not need to remove the top for PLA, it's enough if we tilt it up or raise it, so the air can get in. That's a very smart idea, I am already thinking of clever ways to implement this, either tilt it similar to bird traps, or riser-columns for the corners. My idea is to somehow make these fold out part of the current 20mm rasier frame I've already created. It's hard to explain, I hope this makes sense. Thank you for the inspiritation for this idea!
Even though I am listing a few problems, I hope it shows from the video, that I am quite happy with the Q1 Pro, and I recommend it to everyone. It's just if a Sovol user buys this printer, they should be aware of the differences to spare some headaches... Let's keep in touch! 🙂
GERGO! PLEASE HELP! I HAVE 10) T300 machines and after I updated firmware to 1.5.2 I can't get a good bed mesh on any of them. I heated all the beds to 80c for 45 minutes to settle the bed then gantry level, paper z offset and bed mesh. But my first layer print is not sticking on left side and grinding the build plate on the right side... all 10 machines are the exact same result. I've tried the KPA additions through mainsail, but nothing is working. Sovol has been blowing me off, saying they'd give me $50 for my trouble... 10 machines I've been trying to fix for weeks. They are all brand new out of the box. as if $50 is what 100+ hours of my time is worth... what a slap in the face from Sovol... Can you help? Am I missing something? ANYONE? Bueller?
Have you tried rolling back to the previous version? Hopefully, with 10 machines, you’ve made an EMMC backup! If not, shoot me an email-I’ve got the old version on hand. Also, check out this video for reference: ruclips.net/video/PrC8zaVCHys/видео.html.
The new firmware works fine for me, but yeah, you’ll need to redo all the calibrations-z-offset, bed mesh, and all the usual suspects. And yes, I recommended replacing their new pre-print routine with KPA, including the start and end G-codes in Orca! But I see you’ve already ventured into that whole business → ruclips.net/video/Xl8jR6yaWc8/видео.html
Unfortunately, the new version doesn’t fix the faulty stock gantry leveling. I’d still recommend my z-sync via knob macro: ruclips.net/video/1St82uImQqw/видео.html, or if you’re feeling brave (and let’s be honest, you probably are at this point), you could try my ultimate upgrade: ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html. Although doing that on 10 machines... well, let’s just say Ferris would’ve taken a day off for sure!
One thing that could help immediately-do the silicone spacer mod for the bed. It props up the corners and makes a huge difference. I did it early on, but haven’t made a dedicated video about it yet.
The T300 is a beast, but it definitely needs tweaking to reach its potential. I do wish you’d tested the firmware on just one machine first before going all in. But hey, no judgment-we’ve all been there! At least you’ve got a path forward (and backward, your choice!), so no need to break out the so no need to break out the defibrillator just yet.
I've had QIDI printer before. Was absolutely useless and overpriced. Claimed to be awesome but wasn't. Service department are slow and take a while to get info from.
Just buy a Bambu Labs printer and don't look back!
Sorry to hear that. I hope the video conveys I actually like this printer, though it has some quirks. I am yet to try a Bambu, everybody says good things of course.
Im sold my P1S because I needed a bigger printer bed size and got a X-max 3. One of my worst decisions. I hope Bamboo will release a Xl version soon.
I've got a Voron Trident 350 and BL X1C with AMS. Both are great. Qidi was disappointing especially when it cost me 3k
@@Co4lI am extremely happy with my SV08, that said it's also a tinkerer's machine. But I am having much success with it, and it's 350mm cubed. I made a detailed comparison → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html
@@HatlessChimp1 This, for $450 is not a bad deal imho, fully enclosed, chamber heated, 350/120°C, open Klipper. We just cannot expect Bambu level service at this price point. But again, with just this much effort it is now ready for prime time.
🍿