I definitely have a process when I am checking out an unknown machine. 1.Check oil and fuel tank 2. Check underside of deck and make sure blade isn't loose. (learned that the hard way) 3. Check for compression 4. Drain tank and give it some fresh gas 5.See what happens and go from there
I got a husqvarna mower for free near the end of last season. I was told it ran, but the wheel broke off. The deck was repairable, but I dont have a welder so I wasnt going to repair it. I did a preliminary inspection of the oil, gas, air filter, blade, and things like that. After that I went right to checking to see if the crankshaft was bent, since the wheel broke I know that if it kept running it could have sent the blade into the dirt and bent the crank, so that was my first stop. Luckily, no bent crank and I got a very nice and decently maintained honda engine out of the deal. On another mower I had gotten, it sat for a few years outside. I do a preliminary inspection again and then try to start it, with some fresh gas of course. Maybe it starts, most likely not, but in that case I would go after the carb before anything else since it sat outside for so long. Its the same as what you said, I let the machine tell me where to go and my preliminary inspections usually give me an idea of what Im dealing with.
I admire your candid approach to your diagnostics and repairs. I use your information as a stepping stone to further delve into the problem(s) of the equipment in my shop. Usually, things go forward to a successful culmination. However, it may takes several different pathways to find the true etiology of the issue(s). Many machines of all kinds each have their production design flaws but as you said, the machine dictate which pathway they need. Thank you again for your wisdom and devotion to your channel. Thank you for all you have done!!! 🏆
Words to live by "let the machine tell you how the repair is going to go". I do mine in 3 stages, diagnose, repair(this usually can change in the middle as other problems are found), test. It's not obvious but a repair video usually takes at least 2 days if I need parts that aren't on the shelf.
Just because the carburetor is the problem 90% of the time doesn't mean it's 100% of the time. Thank you for reminding all of us that we have to actually diagnose before assuming anything.
I love your videos, man. By far, BEST SMALL ENGINE MECHANIC. From the way you explain to the way you go out your way to help. By the way, it was the fuel cap on the husqvarna blower yesterday 😅 thank you!!!
Best case for bad compression is no longer a stuck ring. I recently saw one (not on my bench) with a straw stuck in a valve opening, keeping the valve from closing fully. I don't have a set repair procedure, but there ARE a couple of things I do first, and they're similar to what you do. Inspect for oil, then fuel, then the brake release cable, then pull the starter to check for compression. Then go from there.
If it's not running I check the basics first such as fuel, spark & compression and in that order. If I give the engine a squirt of fuel & it doesn't run then I will check for spark,if there is spark then I would check for compression. If all of the 3 are there then I would check for a timing issue such as a sheared flywheel key, incorrect ignition coil, etc !
With Briggs V twins, a very common problem I've run into, is the carburetor runs lean. What I have found is, I drill out the main jets by about 4 thousandths. It equalizes the jets. (From the factory they are different sizes) plus gives just a little extra fuel. To test before drilling. I will run the machine on a paved surface engage the PTO, and run as fast as it will go. Then move the throttle to idle, then go to max throttle. If it is slow, or bogs, I can just about garrentee drilling will help. After drilling with the engine idling then go to full throttle it should accelerate smooth and quickly.
That is not fixing it,that is just covering up the original problem. The jets are different for a reason and the main jets aren't even the cause of surging ,it is the idle circuit being plugged.
@MUUKOW3 I didn't drill the jets because it was surging, I drilled them because of lack of power. With the PTO engaged, and running as fast as the mower would go, then reduce the throttle to idle, then go full throttle it would stumble, and accelerate slowly. After drilling, the engine would accelerate fast, and smoothly. If you prefer to have less power, and slow acceleration, that's up to you, not everyone wants to accept that.
@bertgrau3934 Why would you pull the the throttle to idle and then slam it open under load? That is not what it was designed to do. If it was they would have installed an accelerator pump or a part throttle jet. They are made for a constant speed. You didn't create any more power, if anything you lost some by being to rich on the top end . So yes you put on a bandage for a problem that didn't need fixing . Just have a stock of plugs because those engines like to foul them stock.The different size jets are due to different intake runner lengths and one cylinder running a bit warmer than the other. The people that designed it just didn't pull a rabbit out of their hat.
@@MUUKOW3 That's where you're wrong. It does help with power. After drilling the jets, when cutting tall grass, the engine would cut not bog. The difference when cutting grass made a big difference. Look you're opposed to drilling jets. So DO NOT DRILL the jets. I do I like the increase in power, and the ability to cut tall grass, thick grass without the engine bogging . As far as the plugs, they don't go bad. In fact, they look normal because Briggs sets the carburetor too lean to begin with.
Great points in your video about just filming it and then doing voice over . It keeps you from having to go back and edit, then re-edit. All you have to do is splice and cut out the parts of the video that are irrelevant. Usually when I get a machine, the first thing I do is either try to start it or check and smell the gas. Unfortunately, sometimes I am slack on checking the oil, but I usually check it fairly quickly in the diagnosis. Based on what happens when I pull that rope, begins the process of elimination.
I have a Craftsman with a Powermore engine that runs, but has a rod knock. It also smokes like a freight train. What additional issue could be causing the smoke?
since it's a powermore with an OHV's, then the head gasket could be broken on the side of the facing the opening for the pushrods. The only way to check without just taking off the head, would be to do a leak down test and see if there's a lot of leakage into the engine.
For the riding mower I have a strict method. Step 1, I call the dealer, step 2. Arrange a pickup. Step 3 they return it after they fix it. Is it expensive, yes it is, but I also have about 4 acres that I mow and to me, it's worth the expense for them to pick it up. I am not a mechanic and after paying even more because I tried to fix things, I learned my lesson.
@ I think this channel is going to help me and my friend learn some mechanics on small engines me and my friend Everett can learn a lot here love both of your channels I tell a lot of people about this channel if people want to learn some amazing stuff about small engines this is the channel to check out
Man im really greatfull for your channel. You're very easy to understand and your straight to the point with no extra commotion. Also you do a great job of filming and editing. It would be interesting to see your behind the scenes and filming techniques. But that's your decision and you can do what you want haha. Thanks for the great job. I really appreciate the knowledge 💥
Start simple and work from there, you definitely not going to replace fuel injectors in your car before your try cleaning them 🤔 Great info, thx for sharing 👍
When I am dealing with an unknown machine that I know has been sitting, I usually just pull the carb off and clean it since I know I will probably have to do it anyway.
you are correct about that , it's a pretty safe bet, however, about 10-15% of the time I do that, the carb is in perfect working order. But at least I went thru it and confirmed it was in working condition so it wasn't a total waste.
I am about to go through my third carb on one of my riders. The first replacement carb had an immediate needle and seat failure, and the second is running the engine rich no matter what adjustments I make to it. I have a used OEM needle and seat that may be good, so I may just put that in the Chinese carb and see what happens.
I am planning on starting a channel hopefully next Spring after I sell my current inventory and build some funds. If I were shooting a video, I would definitely diagnose off camera beforehand to make sure I have a viable machine and order any parts (if necessary) so I don't have the project stall while I am waiting on parts. If the machine isn't viable, then I would not waste time ordering parts, and pivot toward diagnosing and doing an autopsy for the video.
I wish you the best of luck, and don't discount broken and worn out machines. The information you get from them and share with the viewers could really help someone out.
@@HomeGaragechannel Everything I work on is given to me by someone who was going to throw it away, or it comes out of a trash pile. I have never paid more that $6 for lawn equipment. Broken and worn out is what I know, lol. I don't know what I am going to do if I actually get to work on a new machine. I'm going to film everything, because one thing I have learned since I started this hobby is that every machine can surprise you with something you don't expect. I've been doing it about six years, so I'm relatively new to it, but I have already run into quite a few unique and unexpected issues with some of my machines. I wish I had been filming those. I rarely get one with a simple problem.
Diagnosis and sharing with everyone the journey is the content whether it is viable or not. Watch Matt at Diesel Creek or Mortske if want failure with comedy. Preplanned is fine if you are making educational videos ! If it is not viable show it warts and all because it's real ! I watch the Home Garage because it is real and he has a great presentation. I work on this stuff one would think I'm nuts watching someone else do it ! But he does stuff that is really not cost effective for the customer for me to work on anymore so it's like the good ole days.
I recently picked up a 2017 Toro Personal Pace with a Briggs 7.25 out of a trash pile. It's running great, but when I got it, the self propel worked but wouldn't pull, so I adjusted the cable a little bit. The self propel worked great for about five minutes before it threw the belt. The belt looks pretty rough and I am going to replace it, but is there any other issue that can cause it to throw the belt? I only have $14 in this mower so far, and I am giving it to my brother for a house warming gift, so I want to make sure that everything is right on it.
hmm.. I never had a Toro PP throw a belt before. If I had to guess, either the belt or one of the 2 pulleys was damaged. I'd check the pulleys for warpage and if they're okay, I'd try replacing the belt.
Agreed, check the bearing on the idler pulley. If the bearing is bad replace, plus from what you said about the belt, it should be replaced as well. Good luck Sir.
How do you charge your customers for repairs? By the hour or by the job? What kind of rates do you charge? I have mainly focused on fixing and flipping while doing occasional customer work, but I plan to dive into customer work and advertising this Spring. I have no idea what to charge. Most of the shops in my area charge $85 an hour. Obviously, I won't charge anywhere near that, but I really have no idea what to go with, or what's fair.
I charge a flat rate for service, that typically includes basic carb/fuel system cleaning. Anything extra after that , like belts, air filters, etc.. I charge for but I don't add any extra fees. I would not use my system of billing, that's because it works for me and my situation. You'll have to come up with a system that works for you. For example, If I mower came in during the spring and it wasn't starting, I'd charge, say.. $50 flat rate to get it running. But if the carb was "bad" and not savable, I'd add the price of a new carb, +10 or 15$ depending where I get it from. I'd tell them that I got it running and that I had to replace the carb and tell them the price was ~$60. That's a huge deal compared to 90% of the other options. Hope that helps. I might have to do a video on the topic as there are so many different situations to cover.
Why does your commentary not match the video? I'm trying to watch what you are doing to this mower, but your commentary is very distracting because it is not describing what you are doing. Just my opinion.
because it's 30 degrees F outside, this is the time of year where I do discussion videos, this and other videos were picked to give you something to watch as I talk. The repair you're watch is from la year ago and you can watch it if you need to see how to replace the belt.
Step 1 for me is cleaning! I hate working on dirty stuff.
I know what you mean
EVERYTHING has a different tale to tell. Some similar but always have their own twist. EVERYTHING! Happy weekend!
Words to live by!
@@HomeGaragechannel Always had to, all my life with everything.
I definitely have a process when I am checking out an unknown machine.
1.Check oil and fuel tank
2. Check underside of deck and make sure blade isn't loose. (learned that the hard way)
3. Check for compression
4. Drain tank and give it some fresh gas
5.See what happens and go from there
I like this list!
I got a husqvarna mower for free near the end of last season. I was told it ran, but the wheel broke off. The deck was repairable, but I dont have a welder so I wasnt going to repair it. I did a preliminary inspection of the oil, gas, air filter, blade, and things like that. After that I went right to checking to see if the crankshaft was bent, since the wheel broke I know that if it kept running it could have sent the blade into the dirt and bent the crank, so that was my first stop. Luckily, no bent crank and I got a very nice and decently maintained honda engine out of the deal.
On another mower I had gotten, it sat for a few years outside. I do a preliminary inspection again and then try to start it, with some fresh gas of course. Maybe it starts, most likely not, but in that case I would go after the carb before anything else since it sat outside for so long.
Its the same as what you said, I let the machine tell me where to go and my preliminary inspections usually give me an idea of what Im dealing with.
sounds like you know what you're doing, and I wish you the best of luck with it!
I admire your candid approach to your diagnostics and repairs. I use your information as a stepping stone to further delve into the problem(s) of the equipment in my shop. Usually, things go forward to a successful culmination. However, it may takes several different pathways to find the true etiology of the issue(s). Many machines of all kinds each have their production design flaws but as you said, the machine dictate which pathway they need. Thank you again for your wisdom and devotion to your channel. Thank you for all you have done!!! 🏆
I really do appreciate your comment, the information you've shared with me was been helpful too!
Words to live by "let the machine tell you how the repair is going to go".
I do mine in 3 stages, diagnose, repair(this usually can change in the middle as other problems are found), test. It's not obvious but a repair video usually takes at least 2 days if I need parts that aren't on the shelf.
2nd this! Will Billy speaks truith!
so very true!
@@HomeGaragechannel We all found this out YEARS ago. KIDS, even!
Just because the carburetor is the problem 90% of the time doesn't mean it's 100% of the time. Thank you for reminding all of us that we have to actually diagnose before assuming anything.
hey I need to be reminded about it just as much as anyone else, not immune to my own habits! Thank you!
I love your videos, man. By far, BEST SMALL ENGINE MECHANIC. From the way you explain to the way you go out your way to help. By the way, it was the fuel cap on the husqvarna blower yesterday 😅 thank you!!!
thank you, that's very kind of you, and I'm glad you figured it out!
Best case for bad compression is no longer a stuck ring. I recently saw one (not on my bench) with a straw stuck in a valve opening, keeping the valve from closing fully.
I don't have a set repair procedure, but there ARE a couple of things I do first, and they're similar to what you do. Inspect for oil, then fuel, then the brake release cable, then pull the starter to check for compression. Then go from there.
wow, you meant like a straw of grass? I've never seen that before but now I'll look out of it. How did you fix it?
@@HomeGaragechannel No, it was a thin plastic straw, like that used for pinpoint spraying.
I see
If it's not running I check the basics first such as fuel, spark & compression and in that order.
If I give the engine a squirt of fuel & it doesn't run then I will check for spark,if there is spark then I would check for compression.
If all of the 3 are there then I would check for a timing issue such as a sheared flywheel key, incorrect ignition coil, etc !
very well said!
With Briggs V twins, a very common problem I've run into, is the carburetor runs lean. What I have found is, I drill out the main jets by about 4 thousandths. It equalizes the jets. (From the factory they are different sizes) plus gives just a little extra fuel. To test before drilling. I will run the machine on a paved surface engage the PTO, and run as fast as it will go. Then move the throttle to idle, then go to max throttle. If it is slow, or bogs, I can just about garrentee drilling will help. After drilling with the engine idling then go to full throttle it should accelerate smooth and quickly.
as long as I know that the jet is too small to begin with and the engine is running lean, I'm okay with making the jet bigger.
That is not fixing it,that is just covering up the original problem. The jets are different for a reason and the main jets aren't even the cause of surging ,it is the idle circuit being plugged.
@MUUKOW3
I didn't drill the jets because it was surging, I drilled them because of lack of power. With the PTO engaged, and running as fast as the mower would go, then reduce the throttle to idle, then go full throttle it would stumble, and accelerate slowly. After drilling, the engine would accelerate fast, and smoothly. If you prefer to have less power, and slow acceleration, that's up to you, not everyone wants to accept that.
@bertgrau3934 Why would you pull the the throttle to idle and then slam it open under load? That is not what it was designed to do. If it was they would have installed an accelerator pump or a part throttle jet. They are made for a constant speed. You didn't create any more power, if anything you lost some by being to rich on the top end . So yes you put on a bandage for a problem that didn't need fixing . Just have a stock of plugs because those engines like to foul them stock.The different size jets are due to different intake runner lengths and one cylinder running a bit warmer than the other. The people that designed it just didn't pull a rabbit out of their hat.
@@MUUKOW3
That's where you're wrong. It does help with power. After drilling the jets, when cutting tall grass, the engine would cut not bog. The difference when cutting grass made a big difference. Look you're opposed to drilling jets. So DO NOT DRILL the jets. I do I like the increase in power, and the ability to cut tall grass, thick grass without the engine bogging .
As far as the plugs, they don't go bad. In fact, they look normal because Briggs sets the carburetor too lean to begin with.
Great points in your video about just filming it and then doing voice over . It keeps you from having to go back and edit, then re-edit. All you have to do is splice and cut out the parts of the video that are irrelevant.
Usually when I get a machine, the first thing I do is either try to start it or check and smell the gas. Unfortunately, sometimes I am slack on checking the oil, but I usually check it fairly quickly in the diagnosis. Based on what happens when I pull that rope, begins the process of elimination.
you are absolutely right! It just took trial and error to realize what works best.
I have a Craftsman with a Powermore engine that runs, but has a rod knock. It also smokes like a freight train. What additional issue could be causing the smoke?
since it's a powermore with an OHV's, then the head gasket could be broken on the side of the facing the opening for the pushrods. The only way to check without just taking off the head, would be to do a leak down test and see if there's a lot of leakage into the engine.
For the riding mower I have a strict method. Step 1, I call the dealer, step 2. Arrange a pickup. Step 3 they return it after they fix it. Is it expensive, yes it is, but I also have about 4 acres that I mow and to me, it's worth the expense for them to pick it up. I am not a mechanic and after paying even more because I tried to fix things, I learned my lesson.
hey if it works for you , I'm all for it!
Honestly sometimes we just gotta live and learn we will figure out the right way to do things it’s how we learn
you got that right
@ I think this channel is going to help me and my friend learn some mechanics on small engines me and my friend Everett can learn a lot here love both of your channels I tell a lot of people about this channel if people want to learn some amazing stuff about small engines this is the channel to check out
I really do appreciate that!
Man im really greatfull for your channel. You're very easy to understand and your straight to the point with no extra commotion. Also you do a great job of filming and editing. It would be interesting to see your behind the scenes and filming techniques. But that's your decision and you can do what you want haha. Thanks for the great job. I really appreciate the knowledge 💥
I have considered it, however with the weather as is, it's a bit colder than I want to be , but we'll see!
I need to be more like you. When im working on stuff.
it take a lot of discipline for sure, sometimes I have to force myself but by the time it's over, it's well worth it.
Start simple and work from there, you definitely not going to replace fuel injectors in your car before your try cleaning them 🤔
Great info, thx for sharing 👍
thank you very much!
Another great video hope your holiday season was a good one 👍
Thank you! I hope yours was good as well!
When I am dealing with an unknown machine that I know has been sitting, I usually just pull the carb off and clean it since I know I will probably have to do it anyway.
you are correct about that , it's a pretty safe bet, however, about 10-15% of the time I do that, the carb is in perfect working order. But at least I went thru it and confirmed it was in working condition so it wasn't a total waste.
@@HomeGaragechannel I got a machine out of a trash pile a few months back that I didn't touch the carb on, but that doesn't happen often.
I agree
I am about to go through my third carb on one of my riders. The first replacement carb had an immediate needle and seat failure, and the second is running the engine rich no matter what adjustments I make to it. I have a used OEM needle and seat that may be good, so I may just put that in the Chinese carb and see what happens.
are you getting carbs from the same seller each time?
@@HomeGaragechannel Yes. I bought the first one, and they sent me a new one when it failed.
Both ways are OK but I normally check what I think would cost the most . But it depends on what issues it's doing
great answer !
It seems like you fix so many of these husquarvarna u should fix an older husquarvarna
to be honest, I don't find my older Husqvarna mowers.. how far back are you talking about?
@ 2000s ones
if I recall are those the ones that have the plastic trim around the edge of the decks?
I am planning on starting a channel hopefully next Spring after I sell my current inventory and build some funds. If I were shooting a video, I would definitely diagnose off camera beforehand to make sure I have a viable machine and order any parts (if necessary) so I don't have the project stall while I am waiting on parts. If the machine isn't viable, then I would not waste time ordering parts, and pivot toward diagnosing and doing an autopsy for the video.
I wish you the best of luck, and don't discount broken and worn out machines. The information you get from them and share with the viewers could really help someone out.
@@HomeGaragechannel Everything I work on is given to me by someone who was going to throw it away, or it comes out of a trash pile. I have never paid more that $6 for lawn equipment. Broken and worn out is what I know, lol. I don't know what I am going to do if I actually get to work on a new machine. I'm going to film everything, because one thing I have learned since I started this hobby is that every machine can surprise you with something you don't expect. I've been doing it about six years, so I'm relatively new to it, but I have already run into quite a few unique and unexpected issues with some of my machines. I wish I had been filming those. I rarely get one with a simple problem.
Diagnosis and sharing with everyone the journey is the content whether it is viable or not. Watch Matt at Diesel Creek or Mortske if want failure with comedy. Preplanned is fine if you are making educational videos ! If it is not viable show it warts and all because it's real ! I watch the Home Garage because it is real and he has a great presentation. I work on this stuff one would think I'm nuts watching someone else do it ! But he does stuff that is really not cost effective for the customer for me to work on anymore so it's like the good ole days.
wow nice!
Same lawn mower I own
nice!
I recently picked up a 2017 Toro Personal Pace with a Briggs 7.25 out of a trash pile. It's running great, but when I got it, the self propel worked but wouldn't pull, so I adjusted the cable a little bit. The self propel worked great for about five minutes before it threw the belt. The belt looks pretty rough and I am going to replace it, but is there any other issue that can cause it to throw the belt? I only have $14 in this mower so far, and I am giving it to my brother for a house warming gift, so I want to make sure that everything is right on it.
hmm.. I never had a Toro PP throw a belt before. If I had to guess, either the belt or one of the 2 pulleys was damaged. I'd check the pulleys for warpage and if they're okay, I'd try replacing the belt.
Agreed, check the bearing on the idler pulley. If the bearing is bad replace, plus from what you said about the belt, it should be replaced as well. Good luck Sir.
Why was the engine shaking so much before the belt replacement?
ah the crankshaft is severely bent. In the end I had to replace the engine.
Where did you get that spark plug tester that you used in this video?
man I've had that thing for years, but I'd just buy it off Amazn but if you need it today, I'd go to Harbor Freight
How do you charge your customers for repairs? By the hour or by the job? What kind of rates do you charge? I have mainly focused on fixing and flipping while doing occasional customer work, but I plan to dive into customer work and advertising this Spring. I have no idea what to charge. Most of the shops in my area charge $85 an hour. Obviously, I won't charge anywhere near that, but I really have no idea what to go with, or what's fair.
I charge a flat rate for service, that typically includes basic carb/fuel system cleaning. Anything extra after that , like belts, air filters, etc.. I charge for but I don't add any extra fees. I would not use my system of billing, that's because it works for me and my situation. You'll have to come up with a system that works for you. For example, If I mower came in during the spring and it wasn't starting, I'd charge, say.. $50 flat rate to get it running. But if the carb was "bad" and not savable, I'd add the price of a new carb, +10 or 15$ depending where I get it from. I'd tell them that I got it running and that I had to replace the carb and tell them the price was ~$60. That's a huge deal compared to 90% of the other options. Hope that helps. I might have to do a video on the topic as there are so many different situations to cover.
Good video
Thanks, I appreciate it!
the machine always.
great choice!
hi
hello
Why does your commentary not match the video? I'm trying to watch what you are doing to this mower, but your commentary is very distracting because it is not describing what you are doing. Just my opinion.
because it's 30 degrees F outside, this is the time of year where I do discussion videos, this and other videos were picked to give you something to watch as I talk. The repair you're watch is from la year ago and you can watch it if you need to see how to replace the belt.