Credits to your for the presentation and explenation of this particular product. I just started using those babies on my exhaust and let me tell you, if well installed the advantages of them is endless. Again, tons of credits to you and Happy Thnaks giving to you and family.
Happy thanksgiving to you and your family! Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Means a great deal to me. And yeah these bands are fantastic
10:56 while this is great information, it’s over kill. Warping is not hard to avoid with these. Typically if you just keep it clamped together while welding, the other side will act as a heat sink and keep the flange true. I regularly use this method and have never had a warp. I have even corrected warps by assembling it while it is still hot from welding when I forgot to attach the clamp
I use the same method, normally ill tack it up and weld whatever the parts are while clamped like downpipe to o2 housing or o2 housing clamped to turbo hot side. either way it never warps. It almost always warps when not clamped.
I installed ssome of thes eon my header collectors for my 5.3L LS. Problem I have is that one of the flanges didnt line up 100% with the other and it vibrates like crazy and makes a buzzing noise. So before you weld make sure that everything is tight and where you abssolutely want it.
So the exhaust pipe goes into the v band when u weld it together? So If I have 2.5" exhaust pipes on my vehicle what size v band do I need 2.5" as well?? Especially if it needs to go into the band?
Just a small correction, magnets may *indicate* it's a 304 or 316 Stainless Steel, but if it's a 200 (like 201) grade, then it will attract the magnet either way, but still will count as stainless steel. So magnets are not a very good way to determine if the SS or not. So the bolts may bet a 201 stainless
200 grade is only mildly magnetic and only then through cold working. Most common ferritic stainless steel for exhaust components is 409 and yes, it is magnetic. If you pick up an exhaust component that claims to be "stainless steel" and it's magnetic, then it's most likely 409.
I’ve heard a lot of guys say that. Maybe we’re using different clamps but I have almost no room to get the electrode in there when they’re assembled. Maybe I need to switch brands. What clamps are you using?
Question, could you have a spare v flange and v clamp that you could attach to the one you're welding to keep it from warping? (maybe a modified clamp that gives more room for your torch...) Or would there be no room to do the weld with the clamp in place?
Hey I have a semi but it’s basically the same principle. I replaced my charge air cooler because it was leaking and I had to take off the vband clamp on the elbow connecting the turbo with the exhaust pipe going to the charge air cooler . After I changed my cooler the boost leak was reduced I put vband clamp back on, but I found I was still loosing a bit of boost. Now I find out I have a vband clamp leak but it’s not the clamp because I’ve took it out put it back on multiple times so Is the turbo flanges not sealing quite well possibly due to warping but most likely from the crud that’s been there for all these years . Is there a high temp gasket of some kind I can put in between the flanges because other than that I have to find a machine shop that will work on flared flanges
This is very informative. Aluminium is good for welding stainless to prevent arcs through and creating rust spots. Backstep welding can prevent distortion but looks bad if your not a confident welder.
Hello RD: *Thanks so much for the video.* Two questions (1) Just to be sure, in this vid you INSERTED the pipe into the flange; that is to say, you had a flange with an I.D. that was perfect fit to O.D. of the pipe? And (2), the Evil Energy link takes us to an Amazon page that says that the flanges are stainless...does Evil Energy sell mild/regular steel flanges?
Yeah I can probably do that. Don’t want to waste a clamp but I also have an alternate method that I want to share that could also be useful. Please sub so you don’t miss the upload. Thanks for watching and commenting!
So Ive been doing some clamps and found my best method is do 1 inch weld and cool in bucket of water clean and another inch also I have high amps and fast movement lolol
Keep your welder in the 50 or less amp zone. Do 5 small tacks but let it cool for a bit between each one. Stitch weld in short runs with long pauses to let cool in between. It’ll get a little waviness but not enough to cause large sealing issues if it’s an exhaust. Engine (header) to turbo exhaust pressure, you need to tig with argon back purge for sure. Refrain from mig. General exhaust systems after a turbo or N/A is fine.
Do one whole pass all the way around. Stich welding causes warpage. Stainless is meant to be welded hot and fast. If you weld slow you will not be a food Stainless welder.
@@rdspeedfab my apologies for the way I said it! So when you tighten the clamp do you tighten it all the way to where the clamp is completely closed or tell it’s just super tight?
@@rdspeedfab okay thank you for that. I went and tightened my exhaust ones a bit more and now the pops and bangs from my exhaust went away so I think I finally did it right haha!! Thanks brotha
Where did you get that v band hear sink? I like the clamp evil energy uses. I just wish their flanges had a machines grove to fit over the tubes a bit.
@@rdspeedfab how did you trench the aluminum for lip of the V-band though? I've got a big block of steal that I might use as my heat sink. Think it'll be an issue with the block being carbon and the band being stainless?
Tig set up would have been good. I really wasn't convinced between the two bands. Not a hugh night and day difference. Showing how you held the header on top of the aluminum block, would sure help.
Serious question, at this point why not just weld exhaust together? This seems like a lot of extra effort and expense to have even minor exhaust leaks.
The benefit of the v band is is how quickly and easily you can remove parts of the exhaust to service things like the rear end, transmission etc. I don’t use v band on every build. Sometimes it just makes more sense to weld it all together like you said.
When I have them clamped together, there is no way to get the TIG torch in there. Maybe it’s just the brand I’m using but it’s very close and no room to weld when they’re assembled.
@@rdspeedfab Keep ot mind when you weld stainless, it's better to run hot and move quickly. If you run the machine cold and move with slow travel speed you are putting more heat into the part than if you were to run hotter and faster. Tight arc, tight dabs, and move quickly with a bit of heat. Practice and you got it man 👍
@@dylangreen9819 thanks man! Admittedly I only weld when I need something welded. LOL I definitely would like to practice and sharpen the skill. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Dylan is spot on. I was going to suggest this then I saw he already did. The pieces warp less when welded properly as well. Another trick is to simply clamp both halves of the v-band and they'll essentially move together if they do at all.
Others have recommended that and I tried it. Problem I was having is with the clamps on, you can’t get the torch in there very well to weld it. It’s very very close. Maybe it’s just these clamps
I tan across this video looking for guys cutting their own vbands on a bench lathes. Your vbands are warping be cuase your welding technique. Seeing you weld and your technique, you are syncing to much heat in. You want to have a cleaner, sharper tungsten and keep a much tighter more controlled arc and you will be able to not only have a better heat controll but can weld much faster wich will reduce heat signature. I have welded a ton of v bands and only use a heat sync on the ones I'm welding to schedual pipe some I will do multiple pass and full penatration joint. I would think now 2 years later you have probably improved
That helps and so does doing several equally spaced tacks before making the actual bead. I've seen a few videos where they do it. Vband clamps are super sensitive to being welded perfectly, and their clamps will not squeeze hard enough to force them to seal if they're warped. People usually just don't hear the leaks or care about them.
I am sorry man, you should not be teaching welding. Your weld is 3 times too big for the thickness of metal. The weld wonders all over the place and your tungston is contaminated. Watch some real welders and keep practicing. the weld should not be bigger than the thickness of metal.
Just picked up my first Honda and have never heard of vband exhaust clamps till now. Thank you so much! Instantly subscribed
Hey i appreciate it! I’ve built a few Hondas myself! They’re fun cars!
GREAT VIDEO !! SO GLAD I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO PRIOR TO TAKING MY CORVETTE TO THE MUFFLER SHOP TO INSTALL V BANDS !! THANKS AGAIN JESSE VIA LAS VEGAS
Heck yeah man! So glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Just tuned in for the first time. Nicely done!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
1st time watching one of your vids. Instantly subscribed. Great teaching, skills and content delivery.
Well done sir.
Thanks man! I really appreciate that! 🍻
Credits to your for the presentation and explenation of this particular product. I just started using those babies on my exhaust and let me tell you, if well installed the advantages of them is endless. Again, tons of credits to you and Happy Thnaks giving to you and family.
Happy thanksgiving to you and your family! Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Means a great deal to me. And yeah these bands are fantastic
10:56 while this is great information, it’s over kill. Warping is not hard to avoid with these. Typically if you just keep it clamped together while welding, the other side will act as a heat sink and keep the flange true. I regularly use this method and have never had a warp. I have even corrected warps by assembling it while it is still hot from welding when I forgot to attach the clamp
How do you get a torch in there when they’re clamped? Maybe it’s the bands I’m using but I don’t have enough room to weld while they’re assembled
I use the same method, normally ill tack it up and weld whatever the parts are while clamped like downpipe to o2 housing or o2 housing clamped to turbo hot side. either way it never warps. It almost always warps when not clamped.
@Pocketbassist I just did my last set by clamping only and it worked great 👍🏻
You did a really good job explaining this. Also how to use them. Thumbs up. Thanks for the tips
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment! I really appreciate that 🍻
I installed 2 and 1 is leaking. Im about to throw some red rtv between the flanges and hope it seals. Still better than the band clamp style
From what I've read, even with mild gaps/warpage, operating temperature heat should fill small gaps and make them seal pretty good.
Yeah it has to be pretty bad
@@rdspeedfab what size exhaust did you use thanks
@@irvingbar4569 2.5”
hi RD, is it possible to use rtv high temp silicone or put gasket if leaking ?
Yeah absolutely
Well you just sold 6 more for them. Thanks for your input brother. Just ordered 6. Well done tech tip video too.
Excellent!! I know you’ll have great luck with them!
I installed ssome of thes eon my header collectors for my 5.3L LS. Problem I have is that one of the flanges didnt line up 100% with the other and it vibrates like crazy and makes a buzzing noise. So before you weld make sure that everything is tight and where you abssolutely want it.
Good point. Thanks for commenting and watching!
So the exhaust pipe goes into the v band when u weld it together? So If I have 2.5" exhaust pipes on my vehicle what size v band do I need 2.5" as well?? Especially if it needs to go into the band?
Yes sir, you got it!
How’d you make the groove in your aluminum block? That’s a good idea. I’d make a block with a groove and also the opposite
I used my milling machine to make all the features in the block.
Just a small correction, magnets may *indicate* it's a 304 or 316 Stainless Steel, but if it's a 200 (like 201) grade, then it will attract the magnet either way, but still will count as stainless steel. So magnets are not a very good way to determine if the SS or not. So the bolts may bet a 201 stainless
Great info. I didn’t know that.
@@rdspeedfab Amazing video btw, you solved several questions I had about these. Thanks!
@@WadeWilson- thanks buddy! I appreciate you taking the time to watch, comment and drop some knowledge!
200 grade is only mildly magnetic and only then through cold working. Most common ferritic stainless steel for exhaust components is 409 and yes, it is magnetic. If you pick up an exhaust component that claims to be "stainless steel" and it's magnetic, then it's most likely 409.
Awesome info. Thank you!
I weld mine on as a complete assy with the other side of the vband and the clamp on tight. It acts as a heat sink and warps much less..
I’ve heard a lot of guys say that. Maybe we’re using different clamps but I have almost no room to get the electrode in there when they’re assembled. Maybe I need to switch brands. What clamps are you using?
Question, could you have a spare v flange and v clamp that you could attach to the one you're welding to keep it from warping? (maybe a modified clamp that gives more room for your torch...) Or would there be no room to do the weld with the clamp in place?
Yeah that’s a good option and can work well!
Hey I have a semi but it’s basically the same principle. I replaced my charge air cooler because it was leaking and I had to take off the vband clamp on the elbow connecting the turbo with the exhaust pipe going to the charge air cooler .
After I changed my cooler the boost leak was reduced I put vband clamp back on, but I found I was still loosing a bit of boost. Now I find out I have a vband clamp leak but it’s not the clamp because I’ve took it out put it back on multiple times so Is the turbo flanges not sealing quite well possibly due to warping but most likely from the crud that’s been there for all these years . Is there a high temp gasket of some kind I can put in between the flanges because other than that I have to find a machine shop that will work on flared flanges
Yes! Permatex ultra copper has worked well for me in the past.
@@rdspeedfab I appreciate your feedback . I will try that
Thank you !
@DOAN1000 not a problem! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
Thank you for your video
Ive always welded V bands clamped together. I haven't had any issues yet with this method.
That’s what others are saying as well. I’m going to try it. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Do you have to weld these ones? Or are they going to be a better option then many stock vband clamps even without welding?
They have to be welded.
What size exhaust did you use thanks
This is very informative. Aluminium is good for welding stainless to prevent arcs through and creating rust spots. Backstep welding can prevent distortion but looks bad if your not a confident welder.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Hello RD: *Thanks so much for the video.* Two questions (1) Just to be sure, in this vid you INSERTED the pipe into the flange; that is to say, you had a flange with an I.D. that was perfect fit to O.D. of the pipe? And (2), the Evil Energy link takes us to an Amazon page that says that the flanges are stainless...does Evil Energy sell mild/regular steel flanges?
Yes to both. They do make mild steel clamps. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Thank you for this! Looking to get some exhaust work done on my two Foxes
Heck yeah! Just wrapped up the exhaust on my Falcon using these same v bands. Check it out as well
What settings were you running on your tig for welding on the v bands?
Do you have to use a gasket with v band
Nope. No gasket.
@@rdspeedfab awesome thanks I got some with my turbo back exhaust and wasn't sure if it was missing gaskets lol
Such great quality video.
What amperage are you welding at, looks way too hot
I always modulate with the pedal. The high end was around 50 amps probably. Thanks for watching!
Do they make then 5 inch
Yes I’m sure
Can you do a vid with no heat sync ? Just to compare
Yeah I can probably do that. Don’t want to waste a clamp but I also have an alternate method that I want to share that could also be useful. Please sub so you don’t miss the upload. Thanks for watching and commenting!
So Ive been doing some clamps and found my best method is do 1 inch weld and cool in bucket of water clean and another inch also I have high amps and fast movement lolol
Can these be MIG welded with solid core wire with gas?
You probably could, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
Keep your welder in the 50 or less amp zone. Do 5 small tacks but let it cool for a bit between each one. Stitch weld in short runs with long pauses to let cool in between. It’ll get a little waviness but not enough to cause large sealing issues if it’s an exhaust.
Engine (header) to turbo exhaust pressure, you need to tig with argon back purge for sure. Refrain from mig.
General exhaust systems after a turbo or N/A is fine.
Do one whole pass all the way around. Stich welding causes warpage. Stainless is meant to be welded hot and fast. If you weld slow you will not be a food Stainless welder.
Good video ! Your header flange has been OVERWELDED, causing the warpage ! I have used the ISPEEDY brand with good success.
Yeah I smoked it 🤣 thanks for watching man!
So do the clamps need to be a complete closed circle? Or just tight?
Sorry just saw this question. What do you mean? Like, when welding them?
@@rdspeedfab my apologies for the way I said it! So when you tighten the clamp do you tighten it all the way to where the clamp is completely closed or tell it’s just super tight?
@@codythrasher3930 oh no worries man. I’m sure there is a torque spec but I just tighten them down until they’re snug. They won’t close completely. 🍻
@@rdspeedfab okay thank you for that. I went and tightened my exhaust ones a bit more and now the pops and bangs from my exhaust went away so I think I finally did it right haha!! Thanks brotha
@@codythrasher3930 yeah man no problem! Thanks for watching
Where did you get that v band hear sink? I like the clamp evil energy uses. I just wish their flanges had a machines grove to fit over the tubes a bit.
I made it. Just a big block of aluminum from my scrap bin.
@@rdspeedfab how did you trench the aluminum for lip of the V-band though? I've got a big block of steal that I might use as my heat sink. Think it'll be an issue with the block being carbon and the band being stainless?
@@1stuart1 I used a boring head on my milling machine.
They do offer these.
Tig set up would have been good. I really wasn't convinced between the two bands. Not a hugh night and day difference.
Showing how you held the header on top of the aluminum block, would sure help.
Thanks for instruction. See you follow Kyle Voss👍
I do, yes. What makes you say that?
drill & tap some through holes in your heatsink & run some coolant through as your welding !
Serious question, at this point why not just weld exhaust together?
This seems like a lot of extra effort and expense to have even minor exhaust leaks.
The benefit of the v band is is how quickly and easily you can remove parts of the exhaust to service things like the rear end, transmission etc. I don’t use v band on every build. Sometimes it just makes more sense to weld it all together like you said.
You have to clamp vband together tightly, then weld it. It should prevent it from warping.
When I have them clamped together, there is no way to get the TIG torch in there. Maybe it’s just the brand I’m using but it’s very close and no room to weld when they’re assembled.
Awesome
SOME GOOD INFO BRO 👌🏿 👍 👏🏿
Thank you!!
You're putting way way touch heat into the part. Use smaller filler wire and shorten your arc length
Thanks! I’ll do that
@@rdspeedfab Keep ot mind when you weld stainless, it's better to run hot and move quickly. If you run the machine cold and move with slow travel speed you are putting more heat into the part than if you were to run hotter and faster. Tight arc, tight dabs, and move quickly with a bit of heat. Practice and you got it man 👍
@@dylangreen9819 thanks man! Admittedly I only weld when I need something welded. LOL I definitely would like to practice and sharpen the skill. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Dylan is spot on. I was going to suggest this then I saw he already did. The pieces warp less when welded properly as well. Another trick is to simply clamp both halves of the v-band and they'll essentially move together if they do at all.
Or the side of a chopsaw blade
Clamp both halves together tightly as a complete unit then weld it.
Others have recommended that and I tried it. Problem I was having is with the clamps on, you can’t get the torch in there very well to weld it. It’s very very close. Maybe it’s just these clamps
who was getting murdered at the end xD
Haha I’ve got two boys. They’re doing crazy boy things.
I tan across this video looking for guys cutting their own vbands on a bench lathes.
Your vbands are warping be cuase your welding technique. Seeing you weld and your technique, you are syncing to much heat in.
You want to have a cleaner, sharper tungsten and keep a much tighter more controlled arc and you will be able to not only have a better heat controll but can weld much faster wich will reduce heat signature.
I have welded a ton of v bands and only use a heat sync on the ones I'm welding to schedual pipe some I will do multiple pass and full penatration joint.
I would think now 2 years later you have probably improved
Thanks for the comment!
sir...those are 2x6s. not 1by's
Good catch. Thank you!
Subscribing just cause of that welding music. For once it's not trying to dubstep me out of my brain.
Haha happy to have you!
I have had my vband on my car for a few days. And here it is fucking leaking. I don't have time for this 😂 it became warped while running.
Oh no! That’s crazy. Never heard of that happening.
Anyone interested in how to weld a vband. Single pass all the way around will keep it from warping. Stitch welding is not how you weld tubing.
Single pass would be great, but I’m sure you’d need a welding positioner to get that done.
@rdspeedfab Weld half, reposition to weld the second half. Don't give it time to cool down. That is what is causing the warping. Hot and fast.
I actually just did a set like this on my Camaro. Clamped together and welded them fast. Worked great. 👍🏻 thank you
Everyone knows copper RTV is a cure all 🤣
Thankfully I’ve had zero leaks. To this day. As long as you use the ones with the lips they’re pretty leak free.
Good video but hard to watch.. Your way to fidgety. Lol
It’s all the cocaine. 🤣
@@rdspeedfab 🤣
Just clamp both halfs of the flange together and the don't move
I’ll give it a shot, thanks!
That helps and so does doing several equally spaced tacks before making the actual bead. I've seen a few videos where they do it. Vband clamps are super sensitive to being welded perfectly, and their clamps will not squeeze hard enough to force them to seal if they're warped. People usually just don't hear the leaks or care about them.
I am sorry man, you should not be teaching welding. Your weld is 3 times too big for the thickness of metal. The weld wonders all over the place and your tungston is contaminated. Watch some real welders and keep practicing. the weld should not be bigger than the thickness of metal.
I appreciate your input my man! I’ll definitely do that. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
WHO'S YOUR DADDY? EVIL ENERGY SIR! STOP SELLING MAN!!!
Lol what??
What a bad name for V Band
lol you think so?
@@rdspeedfab is evil good?