great video. I added a 1/4hp feeder to my 12" Crescent jointer years ago. Worked GREAT. really holds down the work onto the out feed which is what is so important. And makes the work progress thru the head without the normal stops and starts that hand feeding does, resulting in a more even consistent finish. The Crescent, which was part of a multi machine, was perfect candidate as it's out feed table is so wide, (about 24" so lots of room for mounting the tower. I later tried the same feeder on my table saw, but it wasn't powerful enough. I later got a 1/hp feeder and that does work. I currently replaced the 1/4 hp feeder with the 1 hp feeder on the jointer, as I found that the feeder wasn't really needed on the rip saw. I am going to use the 1/4 on my jointer too.
I've been a firm believer in stock feeders since the mid 80's. I used 2 on my table saw to feed stock through it as well. I installed one so it fed before the blade and another after to pull the stock through to the end of the cut. Never had kick back or danger at any time doing large stock production for cabinetry, etc. You too can leave the caveman days of cutting off fingers and getting hit in the head. Just get 2 of these. Brackets can be installed on the table saw without sacrificing the table itself. No need for rip stop etc. Gov should mandate stock feeders on all table saws and shapers.
Good video. I just purchased a Grizzly 1/4 hp. Your video helped me see where to place the base which I’ll be using on my table saw for dados that I have to cut on hundreds of pieces.
Thank you for making this video! I was specifically trying to find out if the 1/4 horse will be strong enough, and you specifically addressed it! So, yes, your vid was very helpful. Now I'll go ahead and buy the Grizzly 1/4 Hp.
Enjoyed your video. I’ve been doing research on adding a power feeder to my 8” Grizzly jointer. Although it’s a different machine, after watching your presentation, I believe a 1/4 hp power feeder may be a better fit than the larger power feeders for my shop. Thanks.
The gap in the fence is what allows the board to pull away from the infeed fence. Putting the ends of the split fence closer to the cutter so the cutter just clears, or using a one piece fence with a cutter specific slot for the cutter to fit through, should stop that problem.
@@TimTools99 I have the same shaper (older though) and same power feeder. They work for my needs... My next projects include making new ash flooring for my house and antique pine flooring for my son's house. I will also will be making all new casing and baseboard for my house. I'll be using it on my 3 HP cabinet saw to rip all the stock before using the planer and shaper... As you alluded to, the power feeder will make this a lot safer (no hands near the cutting action!), less fatiguing and will give more consistent results. Making it better yet, my sons will be doing a lot of the work! ;~)
I set up a Grizzley quarter horse on my table saw yesterday. It was an auction item from twenty years ago, and I planned to use it with moulder heads on the table saw. The first practice run was with 1/4 inch blade height and a 3/4 inch board, to evaluate the operation. As the board passed the blade it began to diverge away from the saw's fence. A kickback ensued and a visit to the ER followed, 11 stitches in left hand. Not sure yet whether there was not enough down pressure, or tilt toward the fence, or maybe just glazed rollers. Need to do more analysis but won't be standing behind the board.
Aaron Carter no, because it was not a thru cut. I mistakenly thought a shallow cut would be safer. Looking back, it only made it easier for the workpiece to climb out of the groove. My saw does not have a riving knife so I use a splitter but it was too tall for a groove cut.
@@danray104 Probably OK for short runs of molding but I have thousands of feet of T&G tamarack and knotty pine that I needed to run so I went with a 1HP 4 roller.
@Michael Kratky it really depends on weight of the stock, and size of the profile. We run 1/4hp and 1/3hp feeders for most basic profiles. The larger feeders, are mounted to our larger molders. A 4 wheel feeder is always prefered.
something isn't set up right the feeder should keep it straight on the fence I am not sure if it needed to be a little lower or if it is due to the fact that it is a smaller one, I have a 1 hp 3 roller and it doesn't have the issue of it coming off the fence
Thank you Luke. I have always said that "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing!" It pays to have someone who knows about this stuff teach how to set-up etc. Since I made the video, I have learned how to position the feeder to make it work right. Thanks for your comment.
I think it’s a design flaw. Their bigger 3 wheel feeder has two wheels before the cutter. The jr has it backwards. If the shaper was run in reverses, it would have worked better. Also, the feeders forward switch actually runs the correct way.. two rollers first
great video. I added a 1/4hp feeder to my 12" Crescent jointer years ago. Worked GREAT. really holds down the work onto the out feed which is what is so important. And makes the work progress thru the head without the normal stops and starts that hand feeding does, resulting in a more even consistent finish. The Crescent, which was part of a multi machine, was perfect candidate as it's out feed table is so wide, (about 24" so lots of room for mounting the tower. I later tried the same feeder on my table saw, but it wasn't powerful enough. I later got a 1/hp feeder and that does work. I currently replaced the 1/4 hp feeder with the 1 hp feeder on the jointer, as I found that the feeder wasn't really needed on the rip saw. I am going to use the 1/4 on my jointer too.
Nicely put together video. Your commentary is clear and concise with no irritating music to spoil it. Cheers from Australia
Thank you. Yes I find the music to be distracting and unnecessary. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I've been a firm believer in stock feeders since the mid 80's. I used 2 on my table saw to feed stock through it as well. I installed one so it fed before the blade and another after to pull the stock through to the end of the cut. Never had kick back or danger at any time doing large stock production for cabinetry, etc. You too can leave the caveman days of cutting off fingers and getting hit in the head. Just get 2 of these. Brackets can be installed on the table saw without sacrificing the table itself. No need for rip stop etc. Gov should mandate stock feeders on all table saws and shapers.
Good video. I just purchased a Grizzly 1/4 hp. Your video helped me see where to place the base which I’ll be using on my table saw for dados that I have to cut on hundreds of pieces.
Thank you for making this video! I was specifically trying to find out if the 1/4 horse will be strong enough, and you specifically addressed it! So, yes, your vid was very helpful. Now I'll go ahead and buy the Grizzly 1/4 Hp.
Enjoyed your video. I’ve been doing research on adding a power feeder to my 8” Grizzly jointer. Although it’s a different machine, after watching your presentation, I believe a 1/4 hp power feeder may be a better fit than the larger power feeders for my shop. Thanks.
The gap in the fence is what allows the board to pull away from the infeed fence. Putting the ends of the split fence closer to the cutter so the cutter just clears, or using a one piece fence with a cutter specific slot for the cutter to fit through, should stop that problem.
Thank you John
@@TimTools99 I have the same shaper (older though) and same power feeder. They work for my needs... My next projects include making new ash flooring for my house and antique pine flooring for my son's house. I will also will be making all new casing and baseboard for my house. I'll be using it on my 3 HP cabinet saw to rip all the stock before using the planer and shaper... As you alluded to, the power feeder will make this a lot safer (no hands near the cutting action!), less fatiguing and will give more consistent results. Making it better yet, my sons will be doing a lot of the work! ;~)
@@johngrossbohlin7582 . Sounds great, John!
Great video Tim
Thank you!
Very helpful video 👍 Thanks, Has the material ever caught on the outfeed fence when feeding it through with the powerfeed.
Finger board on the start side should help hold on the start
Great job
I set up a Grizzley quarter horse on my table saw yesterday. It was an auction item from twenty years ago, and I planned to use it with moulder heads on the table saw. The first practice run was with 1/4 inch blade height and a 3/4 inch board, to evaluate the operation. As the board passed the blade it began to diverge away from the saw's fence. A kickback ensued and a visit to the ER followed, 11 stitches in left hand.
Not sure yet whether there was not enough down pressure, or tilt toward the fence, or maybe just glazed rollers. Need to do more analysis but won't be standing behind the board.
Oh man sorry to hear that. This can be dangerous working with this equipment.
Did you have a riving knife in place?
Aaron Carter no, because it was not a thru cut. I mistakenly thought a shallow cut would be safer.
Looking back, it only made it easier for the workpiece to climb out of the groove. My saw does not have a riving knife so I use a splitter
but it was too tall for a groove cut.
I just ordered a grizzly .I am thing a feather board would be a good idea
No its not needed if it was the builder would say so..,.you did not listen as most people dont the feeder keeps the board in place duh
Can't help but wonder what the limitations would be for only 1/4 HP, seems limited.
1/4 hp, with a 50:1 motor reduction, is TONS of torque. You'd be amazed at what 1/4hp will do in a home shop
@@danray104 Unfortunately info I was looking for 6 months ago.
@Michael Kratky still helpful to anyone who reads the thread.
@@danray104 Probably OK for short runs of molding but I have thousands of feet of T&G tamarack and knotty pine that I needed to run so I went with a 1HP 4 roller.
@Michael Kratky it really depends on weight of the stock, and size of the profile. We run 1/4hp and 1/3hp feeders for most basic profiles. The larger feeders, are mounted to our larger molders. A 4 wheel feeder is always prefered.
something isn't set up right the feeder should keep it straight on the fence I am not sure if it needed to be a little lower or if it is due to the fact that it is a smaller one, I have a 1 hp 3 roller and it doesn't have the issue of it coming off the fence
Thank you Luke. I have always said that "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing!" It pays to have someone who knows about this stuff teach how to set-up etc. Since I made the video, I have learned how to position the feeder to make it work right. Thanks for your comment.
@@TimTools99 how did you position the feeder to do that? I just bought a feeder and hoping to avoid that happening as well
I think it’s a design flaw. Their bigger 3 wheel feeder has two wheels before the cutter. The jr has it backwards. If the shaper was run in reverses, it would have worked better. Also, the feeders forward switch actually runs the correct way.. two rollers first
Need a tongue and groove machine for beginners please give me quote
It still dangerous and it can pull your hand and force it on the bit 😱