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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- Welcome to my new Nanolongrange FPV drone design! This is the 4th and most sophisticated iteration. The design builds on my previous completely 3d printed frame NLR35. The goal was to make it lighter, more powerful and yet fully integrate battery and GPS mounts. Moreover, I decided to switch to a new digital FPV link system, Walksnail. It provides better image quality than analog and HDzero and is lighter than DJI. Finally, it records HD footage onboard and on goggle's DVR.Get started and build your own #NLR35!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:583...
www.printables.com/model/3806...
0:00 3d printing
0:18 Parts overview
1:58 Parts weight
2:57 Frame assembly
3:38 VTX
4:27 Power wires
4:44 FC&VTX install
5:18 GPS install
5:45 Motors install
6:23 Magnetic battery connectors
7:38 Propeller
8:00 Final weight
8:29 Cam lite mount
8:50 18650 LiIon
9:28 Walksnail setup
10:15 Bluejay setup
10:54 Betaflight setup
12:40 ELRS SPI binding
12:56 Maiden flight
13:53 Range test
15:44 Endurance test
on. unboxingexperience
22m flight time and 10km range. We are officially Long Range
Really good build. Thanks for making this.
So awesome! I love the creativity when it comes to minimizing weight. Magnetic battery leads?! I can’t believe that never occurred to me!
I’m averaging about 20 min on a super lightweight fractal wingman build, but the ceramic antenna is my biggest limiting factor. Even at 50 Hz, I start losing signal as I get close to the 1.5 mile range. I think the next step would be something like that FC with an antenna attachment. Or attempting to remove the ceramic tower and install a uf.l connector.
Anyway, love the nano long range stuff!! Keep it coming!
I have removed a few of the "ceramic" antennas. They are actually a high temp plastic square housing with a single wire simply wrapped around them. You can replace with a single 31-32mm wire, just be sure it's soldered to the correct pad out of the 4. I had mounted a HD VTX directly above my X12 controllers antenna and ELRS would lock out 10-20 feet from me even at 50hz/250mw. Replaced with a 0702 motor wire and it now stays above 90% quality at 250hz/25mw. I have also used 28 gauge enamel wire without issue, but the motor wire is tougher.
Thanks for share😮 this OSD font looks sick!
definitely, Sneaky_Fpv did a great job! btw, it's the sphere version
Great video!
Amazing!
thank you for this tutorial.
Looks cool
Well done :)
Excellent 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thats cool
Nice mate
Thanks 👍
How much did everything cost together with controler and headset?
will the previous builds you have made work with a 1-2s battery instead of a 18650? since you use the betaFPV F4 in one of your builds.
it works with a 2s capable AIO, but the motors are rather high kv. Better use 8000kv motors.
You did the build I've been envisioning since getting into fpv! My only question is what specific motor/prop did you use? I can never decide.
Go for Flywoo 1203 11500kv - this motor is on sale for 7.99 each. Combine with Gemfan 3018 and you got a powerful yet efficient little 1s drone
@@Unboxingexperience7 Perfect! Buying right now! thanks!
@@Unboxingexperience7 *Where is it onsale? Getfpv has them for $14 atm.
flywoo.net but sale seems to be over.
So you have 2 UARTs and 1 Softserial? Did you put the GPS or the OSD on the softserial? I am having the problem that the GPS doesn’t communicate well with my Zeus aio 10a when it’s on the softserial. (It’s barely ok for speed and distance but it won’t do RTH) and the jamming from WS v1 hardware doesn’t help either.
I was wondering if changing MSP and GPS might give an improvement or if the OSD then becomes useless…
Any Tipps are highly appreciated Thanks
I don't use the softserial at all. This is why I used the DarwinFPV 15a AIO because it has 2 free UARTs (Walksnail, GPS) + integrated ELRS.
Do you think we can use lower kv motors along with 3.5 mm propos to get to 30 mins ? Might make this soon.
Meant 3.5". Also have you tried using lighter motors, you mention "1202.5 in the thingiverse link" what is the expected increase in flight time with those ?
@@Dixitkushagra175 on 1202.5 you definitely push the throttle harder. So bot sure about a significant flight time increase. On my lighter analog nanolongrange v2 build i had around 23min of flight time too. 1402 will be interesting. I already have 3.5 biblades at home. Might give them a try on the 1203s. Below 8000kv it will get difficult on 1s
@@Unboxingexperience7 What 3.5 biblades are you planning on using ? I can get them and do some experimentation too. I am not really into high speed flying just want maximum stability and long endurance so I might try to develop along those lines.
I only found HQ prop 3.5X2.2X2. They should be perfect for 2s, on 1s the pitch seems a bit high
@@Unboxingexperience7 Agreed. what about modifying a 4 inch gemfan prop to 3.5 inch ? Good idea ? The triblades would be about 30 percent less efficient right ?
Hi. The drone does not blow much in a crosswind?
when flying in acro mode, you can fight winds well. don't fly angle mode when it's windy.
@@Unboxingexperience7 I mean, how hard is it to fly with such a drone in the wind, will it not be blown away much to the side?
it was pretty windy that day, as you can see at the turning wind turbines. At higher altitude you could feel strong headwinds. Just look at the OSD with around 30km/h speed. Going back with tailwinds pushed the quad over 70km/h. So don't underestimate the power of a single high amperage cell combined with bigger 1203 motors.
Poah so ein nices Projekt. Aber wenn ich die Preise sehe kriege ich schmerzen.
cost minus 3d printing?
carbon frame 10$, AIO 60$, motors 50$, GPS 18$, Walksnail VTX 1s lite set 89$, antenna 20$, 21700 4-10$, magnets screws nuts 5$; you will also need goggles and a transmitter.
frame must vibrate quite badly since you put fibers on arms in the wrong direction, this way it acts pretty much like plastic, instead of composite in terms of stiffness... same shape 3d printed might actually perform even better than this with some tweaks
hmm, didn't experience jello so vibrations seems to be ok. It was more about weight, 3d printed frame is about 12g
what kinda tweeks.
been messing around with 3d printed filament. pla no good due to heat warping. testing petg now might have to go with asa.
also 8mm thickness overkill for nano quads, 2.5 to thin so trying 5mm now.
but curious to hear about the tweaks to improve design.
Bro can you provide me parts list plz😢
both links in the video description have the .stl files and parts list
@@Unboxingexperience7 thank you very much bro✌️
Love & support from INDIA 🇮🇳
The FOs watching this 👀
Que motores son ?
flywoo 1203 11500kv
@@Unboxingexperience7 saves que eficientia g/w tienen ? Yo tambien intento ganar autonomia mejorando la eficientia , siempre con bateria 1s
data sheet is here flywoo.net/products/nin-v2-1203pro-3400kv-11500kv
@@Unboxingexperience7 si , es una buena eficientia , pero seguramente es mejorable utilizando menos KW y aumentando poquito el tamano de helice . Puedes medir el grosor de alambre del bobinado ?
Voi a modificar unos motores 1402 para mejorar la eficientia , actualmente he conseguido 7g/w , pero si me dices el grosor del alambre de las bobinas estoy seguro que conseguire mejores resultados
Please check if the motors are 12 pole or 14 pole. i think they are 12. this may be the reason for your short flight time, hahaha.
Thanks for the hint, yes they are 12 pole (9N12p)
14P will help to get longer flight time? Do you know any 9N14P motor of this size, available on market?
I think he was referring to my wrong Betaflight setup. For RPM filtering I set 14p instead of 12p
@@Unboxingexperience7 i guess, he really means 14P configuration of motors. Look at Mavic Mini drones. They are perfect in long range fly and have close size of motors. And their configuration is 9N14P.