I own a Auto truck lift..yes I did my homework 35 yrs ago.. I use my lift for my riding mower. Change blades..,a work table..for welding... working on my hot rods.. so I solved my problem..got a used Rotary inground..made in the USA..it's 35 yrs old ..I installed it myself..down here in Florida.. easy work.. under my floor...it's all sand...easy digging..8 ft down. . downloaded installer manual.. easy easy.. air over oil..old school lift..my oil tank is now above ground ..no rusting tank..to worry about ..had a mid rise lift in the past..been a joy to own.. open clear floor space...no Posts nice clean open floor look....wife is happy ..as well
Yes, beer, and those who drink it, (though not bringing any), is a very important consideration before deciding on a lift installation.. Also, if you feel, socially challenged for "friends", this one purchase and investment will guarantee, you will never have a lonely weekend, or even a workday evening for that matter !!! If you find value, in that sort of company... Thanks for your afterthoughts on your install...
Great video! Here in the US as you know, most houses are 120V/240V single phase, and most circuits just 120V/20A, so you'd likely have to run a 240V circuit to the garage, but on the good side it's usually easy to go up to 240V 30A without any trouble, and homeowners in many places can just do it yourself. Depending on local permit requirements. Three phase residential is pretty unheard of here, too, but it's possible to get rotary converters to go from single to three phase.
Great info. You’re correct, you really need to think everything through before you purchase a lift. I went with an American made 4 post because they are safer, but you need to purchase 2 additional rolling airlifts for brake jobs/axle removal and they are not cheap. If you need to upgrade your electrical you are looking at a substantial cost. I was lucky since I already had a 220 3 phase in my shop for my welder. Really nice job hitting all of the key points prior to making a purchase decision. A lot of DIY guys could get away with a really nice scissor lift and save an awful lot of money and headaches.
That's what I'm planning to go with myself, a non-permanent scissor-lift. (One of the ones that lifts the frame rails, rather than the wheels. Probably customized to match the rails on my truck, because that's the only thing I use it for)
One of my mates had his Rolls Royce Corniche up on his 2 post hoist he had put in. Used it quite a bit and to his horror the bolts started to pull out of the floor and the whole lot started to tilt! They had to prop the car up. And he was lucky. Also check if your car can be put on a 2 post hoist. Some cars cannot. E.g. my Mercedes 300 SEL 6.3. You will tear the subframe bushes apart if not separately bolted together.
I would say very few cars cannot be put on a 2 post hoist. We probably had around 10,000 random makes/models on 2 posters without issue. Some airbag suspensions supposed to be put in lift mode, but even then unlikely to run into problems.
I think in this situation where you have cut slab which would a lot of 100 mm slabs could be better. Always join an existing slab to new concrete with starter bars and undercut old slab so that new concrete comes out and under old slab for additional support. The aim is to join new footings to old slab as best possible and installing a hoist with a high lifting capacity is very important.
I had a floor poured for my 36' x 26' garage.. researched well beforehand and with a 4" fiberglass reinforced concrete floor... I dug an area of 6" plus for where the lift was to be located. so far, so good. I got up and checked out the site before "THE POUR" 6" area raked back in to near 4", NO REINFORCING MESH as required by the quote... AND the concrete truck on it's way with arrival within 20 minutes!! Fllipped out!!! "Don't pour until mesh is in and 6" is restored" I went with the foreman and found some used 4' mesh and hightailed back to the site.. Concrete truck was there waiting as we cut and placed the mesh in place. they had restored my 6" excavation by that time and the pour began... Do I need to state a moral to this story??????
Great video...I did my home work as well..no china,lifts..no good..went with old school steel a 1983 Rotary inground lift..fully restored..top to bottom..air over oil..tank is above ground for safety..
I put a lift in my shop some years ago and researching I found that many are just folded steel on the posts. I went with an American made Mohawk lift because it used welded forklift mast as the posts and also used 2 pistons with overhead hydraulic lines, so clear floor. It needed at least 4" of reinforced 4,000 psi concrete. Since we didn't meet that we dug and poured 6" of 5,000 psi with steel mesh on top of 3/8" rebar, with 8" depth at the posts. I think it cost about an extra $400 to go the next level. Power was 20 amps 240 volt single phase. The extra overkill on everything was around $1500 but got a lift that would do 10,000 pounds.
I have a Launch 4.5 tonne clearfloor hoist single phase hard wired in by choice (but I also have 3 phase throughout my 12x9 Mtr workshop). It has a dedicated power circuit/circuit breaker and the workshop was wired by a good electrician when built. Workshop roof height was considered at build to ensure sufficient height for the hoist. Only have the annual inspection costs. No problems after 3 years. I had thicker pads put in for the mounting, only to find these were not required for a clearfloor as the load is supported by the top brace, not all taken through the floor, which is 25Mpa concrete slab, professionally laid. The only thing I regret is the width between the posts. I would like another 4-500mm more than the 2480mm that seems standard for these type of hoists (difficult to open front door when large vehicle is on the hoist). Cost was a reasonable $3100. Hoist install was extra. I have spent the last 3 years wondering how I existed without a hoist now I have one. You can do sooo much more, much more safely.
@Wendy and Geoff Pattison I do know we are gonna have a heck of a time just drilling the holes. Our airplane hangar was done with that fiberglass reinforced concrete and I've already had to drill a few holes in it, you'd swear that new bit is dull immediately 🤣 We definitely have it thick enough ,it's unheated in the main hangar but a bottle of water I leave on the bench never freezes. And it is insulated. The coldest it's been in there is 26f during a week of being near zero F outside. That thermometer is on the wall about 6' up. And that bottle won't freeze or even get slushy. Someone said its possibly caused by the slab radiating it's warmth, I don't really know. I'm really scratching my head on how a room(shop) can get under 32f and a bottle of water doesn't freeze 🤷♂️ Either way , a lift is in the future.
Great advice! Thickness/quality of my concrete is definitely something that had not crossed my mind. So... great! More money. Can't wait to tell my wife.
Hi Jim, nice video, however as an ethical retailer I do have to say that some of us actually DO care about which hoist a potential customer might purchase - and we don't wanna sell 'a' hoist - just for the sake of it... At Hero Hoists (Australia) it's absoluely critical we make potential customers aware of the features, benefits and possible drawbacks of any option they may be considering... For example, the issues you experienced with the slab would probably not be a problem for a 4-Post model... as they're freestanding / portable - and can be used for BOTH service and parking... so we provide twice as many of them as the 2-Posters... As far as asking installers what's 'best' - yes in general that's good advice - BUT be very careful - as some installers have very close relationships with certain retailers - and even go so far as telling potential customers that a particular brand is 'best' - which is clearly a 'throw-away' recommendation - and meaningless without some kind of context... They aren't always aware of what's on offer or new in the market either… and on that basis I'd be getting any retailer to provide at least 3 customer numbers that they can call to get an unbiased opinion... Keep in mind that some retailers buy from just ONE supplier - and get a great deal on the basis of volume purchases - however that's certainly no guarantee of quality or value for money.
All good and valid points there mate, but from memory there was a reason i didn't use your company, whether it was due to your mob not supplying a 3 phase model (a few didn't which is stupid) or whether your mob was one of the VERY LAZY retailers that just couldn't be bothered returning phone calls or emails, which most certainly WAS most of the companies in Australia i tried, they just plain couldn't be f***ed. If they're that bad before you even buy imagine how pathetic they're going to be after you do buy and need some help??? I do get that people are busy, but that is a total bullshit excuse, if you're that busy you can't get around to returning customer enquiries in a timely manner maybe it's time to employ more staff to handle the demand? Not to say you were one that didn't reply but there was a reason i went with a competitor.
@@1961Bullet he did yes, and after i went back through emails i found that Hero Hoists responded initially, and then took forever to follow up on questions i had, often dodging the actual question with some sort of waffle on answer, because they either knew it wasn't going to meet the needs, or more likely they just didn't know the answer. That said, they're probably right in saying they won't just sell a hoist for the sake of it, in my case they had no hope of selling one at all.
@@spiderloco5508 i bought mine through Tufflift, service was great, been using the hoist a lot and not a single issue with it. I'm quite happy with it.
You need a Stihl saw, Pick & shovel. Dig an inspection pit in your garage or drive way. Very safe and very cheap. Fit out with lights & sockets. You can do it with 3 or 4 courses of bricks for wheels to run on saving on excavation of the pit.. cover with wood or alloy when not in use.. you will have lots of friends when it's finished. Make sure they help with the work...I know of one that's 3 foot deep with 3 foot high walls along the sides that convert into seating either side of a removable table.. got you thinking !
is the way to go,i was a soldier and a hole in the ground was your best friend,dug a pit in my front garden ,drive way,and makes fixing cars ,trucks so easy,machanics friend now ,and as you say,word gets out,you got a inspection pit ,and you got new friends ,jet wash underside ,fit towbars,slide a rsj steal beam across hole,boltle jack point ,axle stands ,only thing i found was ,if i was to do it again,i would go round a car park,shop mall,messure inside of tryes ,get a average size,as some cars are narrow ,and trucks ,vans are wide ,pit is good for welding too,i paint the sides white,add few lights,power sockets,air sockets,got boards to cover the top ,when empty ,but it never is ,allways a car over the pit ,have seen car lengh ramps,drive up and park on top ,4 foot high ,nice sturdy safe desin ,good if cant dig up your drive ,mobil too,dealership got seesaw ramps too,drive up and show off there new cars
Be REALLY careful if you go that route. Pits used to be very common in the US, now you'll almost never see them in a commercial garage. Too many collapsed. The instant oil type places that seem to have a pit, it's really a basement, and it's a steel reinforced or steel beam floor. The other downside is that it's only a matter of time before someone drives something into it, or falls into it, no kidding.
Thanks for that mate, very kind words. If you can share them around on social media and anyone you know that follows car & fabrication🤜, if you get a chance and this would dramatically help. Appreciate anything you can do to help a mate out 👍🚘
On the first one I installed, when we drilled holes in the concrete, to see how thick it was, we pushed too hard on the hammer drill and blew the back of the hole out, which made us think the concrete was thinner than it actually was, so we ended up selling the concrete outand putting in rebar and pouring a thicker pad when actually, it was thick enough, we were just thrown off because of blowing out the concrete by pushing on the drill so hard. Lesson learned.
Cheap China hoists are ok, but none really have the stability. Mine I extended the base about 18" both ways. Like my previous Molnar was. They are a better piece but cost more. But I wanted clear floor. Clear floor is by far the best, speed hump hoists are a big pain trying to fit a gearbox of any sort as the hump is in the way. You need a level floor, they can be shimmed but again far from ideal. Clear floor though requires a taller roof. If your gable roof is sideways they generally fit, my 10'6" wall shed I had to cut it down the top of the hoistby 4" Requires spacers for the cables then. And big vans and 4wds are very close when lifting. Most clear floors too are wider, if you have a 20 foot wide shed you have to sqeeze them to one side of the shed. The Molnar speed hump was narrower and easier to get a car on the other side of the shed. A 3 ton hoist will lift any passenger, light truck and 4wd. Just make sure bigger vehicles are not carrying a ton [literally] of load. I have had 3 ton of Landcruiser and load on mine with no issues. The versions with asymetric arms are excellent,, except when you want to put a car on backwards, more so to remove the engine. Very unstable then The 45 degree columns too are generally better, easier to open doors etc.
If you put a car on backwards (cannot understand why the hoist would be that close to the wall though) then simply swap the arms around to correct the balance. A 5 minute job on my hoist.
The sad part is the lift I've been wanting went from $2,800 to $4,800 in under 2 years. Pretty much ruined my chances of getting it any time soon. Good video!
I'm pouring square footings 4 feet deep with galvanized threaded rod j-hooked. I'm not pissing around with anchor bolts. No second chances under a vehicle.
As I get older 60 plus and after having 2 knee replacements I'm thinking a 2 post for the Subaru Outback the 2 motorcycles and the zero turn mower maintenance is the way to go.
Yeah. I was looking at a premium commercial type of Euro origin. In the specs it had minimum base , 2M x 2M x 1M reinforced cement under each foot, there were other specs on the concrete in the brochure as well. And those were costly lifts. Heshbon or something iirc?
Thanks mate, glad it helps. This is the link to the video of me doing the full install of the lift including the slab rectification. ruclips.net/video/JskZSvrRpjI/видео.html
Why do I need a hoist? Because car repairs are getting outrageous. I have a 2016 tundra 4WD, 48,000 miles, just had an oil change and get a list of things needed. They said “front and back brakes, rotors (which I doubt) and a cabin air filter, they wanted about $1,300.00 I have a bad back and fibromyalgia so wanting one to not kneel down or stand on my head to change brakes, etc. I built a garage in 1979 with a 10’x10’ door. It will need to go between the trusses but should work. I’ve need one all my life, but couldn’t afford it, when I did all my own mechanical work, thanks
Always make sure the sliding legs that pick up the vehicle stops are there that stops them coming out. I was a mechanic in a big franchise shop and saw a BMW come crashing down. Nobody hurt but could have been serious.
Another thing is make sure you don't drill into heated floor tube if you have it. If I get a lift I would need to use a infrared camera to see where the heat tubes are located.
I was going to buy that same brand but went with an EAE from Tufflift instead. There were a few things i preferred on the EAE over that one. Most of these cheaper domestic use hoists only come in single phase and most don't have the option for 3 phase, which is pretty stupid really but anyway. Typically a 3 phase power unit will raise the hoist a lot faster than the single phase units. 230v/400v is nominal in Australia, with a tollerance of +10% and -6%, has been around 22 years or more now. NZ is the same, however the tollerance is + and - 6%. There is also a 20A 3 pin socket, which has the active and neutral pins large in size the same as the earth pin on the 15A. These sort of things should be hard wired anyway, there is no point having it plug in, not like you can unplug it and take it somewhere else, it is just a waste of money having it installed with a socket outlet and a 3 pin plug.
@@DoinStuff it did mate yes, clear floor and 3 phase were two must haves. My workshop has a ceiling of 5 meters at the lowest point. I leave Corvettes up on it to keep them out of the way if i'm waiting on parts. With this hoist i can put it up high enough to walk under without anything in the way.
@@dennisbjones 10amp outlets are almost always fed by AT LEAST a 16amp fuse of breaker, and usually a 20amp breaker feeds those circuits. So if you're tripping with that welder, you're pulling FAR more than 15amps, because even with a 16amp breaker it is still 1.4xIN before it'll trip. A 15amp outlet would usually have 4mm cable and be fed by a 25amp breaker.
My buddy has a hoist in his workshop. Unfortunately, it only goes 4 feet off the ground. It was awkward when I had my car on it. Too low for me to walk under, so I had to sit on a rolling chair to work underneath.
Hi Will, thanks for dropping in 👍 Does he have height restrictions? It would be fine for braking repairs but yeah a bit annoying to do underside stuff.
Unless I’m doing a lot a transmissions , clutches ect, I don’t worry, good quality stands do the job for me, mates tend to get more use out of it otherwise
I’d try to find one where the motor/pump/tank are up high out of the workspace. Once I got mine I found car repairs are so easy that my “projects” are much more serious now.
Well Danish/Polish lifts Stenhøj is the best quality lifts on the market, secondly the Ravaglioli from Italy comes in second, but i guess you never tried to search those brands, both brands have any lift you require in their programme, both working 10+ years professionally and with only one annualy service required, they are cost compedative to all the other brands out there and the warranties are on both brands 3 years here in Europe. The lift you choose has 2 major faults, one is the reinforcement on the arms, total without any purpose and a pain in the arse when working around the lift, no space to put wheel bolts or brake parts when working around the lift and a magnetic cup will fall of when you need to do things inside the car when lifted. Secondly the motor and hydraulic system on the side of thae lift is absolutely annoying when doing anything around that area and everytime you need to walk around you need to take care of your self not to get caught up on it with arms legs or clothing....
Great to see the red Rambler convertible at the beginning of the video. Is it yours and a 1965? I have 1 with a 6 cylinder. Red with white top. Hope to hear from you. Good info in your video. Thanks!
Hey Bob, the rambler is a friends car, it's a very nice example. Your sounds nice, I'd like a nice classic but can't get away from custom stuff 🤣 Thanks for dropping in. Cheers Jim
@@DoinStuff Hi Jim. I was so surprised to see the car in your video. My parents bought the car new in 1965 and I have ridden many miles in the back seat of that car. I am 69 now and just got the car 2 months ago, it has 129,000 miles and looks as if it just came off the showroom floor. I have never seen another, so imagine my surprise when I saw it in your video. Sorry to go on about my car, but I'm happy to see another. Great info in your video and best wishes to you. Take care! Bob
That is true. But that is the "nominal voltage". Alot of areas still run the original 240-415 actual volts. All depends if your distributor has tap changed the transformers. Use a multimeter if you really want to or need to know.
@@willburk It's a single hydraulic ram hoist, with the non ram side lifted by cable. When new and unloaded, the non ram side will be higher, due to cable spring back. Most don't notice, how often do you lift an empty hoist.
Thanks for dropping by mate. If i raise a long vehicle on the hoist, I have to leave the bonnet or bootlid closed. Besides that no troubles. I haven't had the hoist over height switch go to it's limit either.
Tired of paying nearly $100 - $300 every time you need to do a fluid change. Almost EVERY vehicle out there requires getting under the vehicle - especially the new 'sealed' transmissions.
You removed 2 roof trusses to accommodate the height of the lift, and half the roof load is over the garage door. That's a nightmare of structural degradation and your roof and walls are going to settle and bow if you don't find a way to replace the load bracing.
@@DoinStuff I do see those, but there's no horizontal member to counter the outward thrust those new channels will be putting on the front and rear wall top plates (red painted?). I understand that you can't put any new lower members there (meaning where the bottom of the trusses used to be) due to the lift clearance you need, but that whole roof section is very weak. I'm seeing this as not only an architect but as someone who lives in Massachusetts US, so I think in terms of snow loads and the torsional forces caused by hurricanes. Not sure if you live in Southern AUS where they get snow, or maybe that's not a worry for you? 😉
Hi Bill, thanks for your reply and concerns but we are located in Queensland, Northern Australia. No snow loads to be worried about. Also it's been up for near 4 years with no movement or sag.👍
Why didn't you compare a 2 post hoist to a 4 post hoist ..?? 4 post hoist are more stable .. ??? like which is the best ..?? something to think about...???
should you have set J anchors placed in the wet concert i heard that you had to keep tighting up the wedge anchors every so often and thats not a good thing
Don’t mean to be negative Nancy here but I see a huge issue with this lift installation. In the latter part of the video when you are sitting on the arms you can clearly see that one lift arm is higher than the other. Either the lift trucks are out of adjustment or you have a post not square to the rest of the lift. In any case I would refrain from using that until that is fixed.
I am a professional mechanic I would not operate without a 4 post hoist..2 post hoists are OK but useless for most diagnostic jobs because nothing is sitting at normal ride height
You Want A Real Lift ? The Only One To Buy is Mohawk Not Cheap But What's Your Life Worth ? They Dont Use Cables They Use Chains. The Only Lift With A 25 Year Warrantee . Stay AWAY From Anything Else
As an Engineer, when called out for a technical problem, I go to the people that run the equipment. They can tell you volumes more about the issue than any supervisor can.
he mentioned installer as a person, who knows abut overall quality of lifts, he is installing. as for technical stuff, for example what kind of foundations/concrete/rebar etc should be done, then yes, it is better to ask structural engineer (and maybe also architect, who did plans for the house) about that. specially when doing this in existing building, where cutting slabs etc means you're weakening the whole structure.
What do you actually need a hoist for? Gee, I dunno-maybe rR&R transmissions, exhaust work underbody work, etc, etc. I mean WTF kind of question is that?!?
Hey mate, the install costs vary from different lifts and installers. But in saying that to allow between $700 - 900 Australian. Some would be more for larger 4 post units and commercial lifts. I hope this helps mate.
no mister you need a 1mx1m x ,7 m filled with concrete and min 200 fastening, or long rag bolts geeze my D4 LR Weights 2600 kg empty Yofferou are a statistic waiting to happen under that hoist orfer a voltage converter from me 5 to 30kw, single ph in 3 phase 400 out
I own a Auto truck lift..yes I did my homework 35 yrs ago.. I use my lift for my riding mower. Change blades..,a work table..for welding... working on my hot rods.. so I solved my problem..got a used Rotary inground..made in the USA..it's 35 yrs old ..I installed it myself..down here in Florida.. easy work.. under my floor...it's all sand...easy digging..8 ft down. . downloaded installer manual.. easy easy.. air over oil..old school lift..my oil tank is now above ground ..no rusting tank..to worry about ..had a mid rise lift in the past..been a joy to own.. open clear floor space...no Posts nice clean open floor look....wife is happy ..as well
Yes, beer, and those who drink it, (though not bringing any), is a very important consideration before deciding on a lift installation.. Also, if you feel, socially challenged for "friends", this one purchase and investment will guarantee, you will never have a lonely weekend, or even a workday evening for that matter !!! If you find value, in that sort of company... Thanks for your afterthoughts on your install...
Great video! Here in the US as you know, most houses are 120V/240V single phase, and most circuits just 120V/20A, so you'd likely have to run a 240V circuit to the garage, but on the good side it's usually easy to go up to 240V 30A without any trouble, and homeowners in many places can just do it yourself. Depending on local permit requirements. Three phase residential is pretty unheard of here, too, but it's possible to get rotary converters to go from single to three phase.
Everyone who purchases a vehicle hoist should definitely consider these 5 things. Great video 👍🏼
Thanks Daniel 👍
Great info. You’re correct, you really need to think everything through before you purchase a lift. I went with an American made 4 post because they are safer, but you need to purchase 2 additional rolling airlifts for brake jobs/axle removal and they are not cheap. If you need to upgrade your electrical you are looking at a substantial cost. I was lucky since I already had a 220 3 phase in my shop for my welder. Really nice job hitting all of the key points prior to making a purchase decision. A lot of DIY guys could get away with a really nice scissor lift and save an awful lot of money and headaches.
That's what I'm planning to go with myself, a non-permanent scissor-lift. (One of the ones that lifts the frame rails, rather than the wheels. Probably customized to match the rails on my truck, because that's the only thing I use it for)
Another important tip is beer. Do the many friends you'll suddenly have now that you have a lift drink beer and if so is it your brand.
🤣🤣 and Yes it's always my brand 👍
But that goes for a truck , a garage or any equipment you buy ..you gotta be careful ..or you will have to many friends ...trust me ..
I'm trying hard not to buy it for my home garage, but after the beer thing, i must buy it now 😂
One of my mates had his Rolls Royce Corniche up on his 2 post hoist he had put in. Used it quite a bit and to his horror the bolts started to pull out of the floor and the whole lot started to tilt! They had to prop the car up. And he was lucky. Also check if your car can be put on a 2 post hoist. Some cars cannot. E.g. my Mercedes 300 SEL 6.3. You will tear the subframe bushes apart if not separately bolted together.
Interesting info 👍
I would say very few cars cannot be put on a 2 post hoist. We probably had around 10,000 random makes/models on 2 posters without issue. Some airbag suspensions supposed to be put in lift mode, but even then unlikely to run into problems.
I think in this situation where you have cut slab which would a lot of 100 mm slabs could be better. Always join an existing slab to new concrete with starter bars and undercut old slab so that new concrete comes out and under old slab for additional support. The aim is to join new footings to old slab as best possible and installing a hoist with a high lifting capacity is very important.
Thanks for that 👍
I had a floor poured for my 36' x 26' garage.. researched well beforehand and with a 4" fiberglass reinforced concrete floor... I dug an area of 6" plus for where the lift was to be located. so far, so good.
I got up and checked out the site before "THE POUR" 6" area raked back in to near 4", NO REINFORCING MESH as required by the quote... AND the concrete truck on it's way with arrival within 20 minutes!!
Fllipped out!!! "Don't pour until mesh is in and 6" is restored"
I went with the foreman and found some used 4' mesh and hightailed back to the site.. Concrete truck was there waiting as we cut and placed the mesh in place. they had restored my 6" excavation by that time and the pour began...
Do I need to state a moral to this story??????
No moral required, everyone who has done it has a story, thanks for dropping in 👍
Great video...I did my home work as well..no china,lifts..no good..went with old school steel a 1983 Rotary inground lift..fully restored..top to bottom..air over oil..tank is above ground for safety..
Thanks Stephen, you lift sounds like it will last a lifetime 👌
I put a lift in my shop some years ago and researching I found that many are just folded steel on the posts. I went with an American made Mohawk lift because it used welded forklift mast as the posts and also used 2 pistons with overhead hydraulic lines, so clear floor. It needed at least 4" of reinforced 4,000 psi concrete. Since we didn't meet that we dug and poured 6" of 5,000 psi with steel mesh on top of 3/8" rebar, with 8" depth at the posts. I think it cost about an extra $400 to go the next level. Power was 20 amps 240 volt single phase. The extra overkill on everything was around $1500 but got a lift that would do 10,000 pounds.
I have a Launch 4.5 tonne clearfloor hoist single phase hard wired in by choice (but I also have 3 phase throughout my 12x9 Mtr workshop). It has a dedicated power circuit/circuit breaker and the workshop was wired by a good electrician when built. Workshop roof height was considered at build to ensure sufficient height for the hoist. Only have the annual inspection costs. No problems after 3 years. I had thicker pads put in for the mounting, only to find these were not required for a clearfloor as the load is supported by the top brace, not all taken through the floor, which is 25Mpa concrete slab, professionally laid. The only thing I regret is the width between the posts. I would like another 4-500mm more than the 2480mm that seems standard for these type of hoists (difficult to open front door when large vehicle is on the hoist). Cost was a reasonable $3100. Hoist install was extra.
I have spent the last 3 years wondering how I existed without a hoist now I have one. You can do sooo much more, much more safely.
Who asked?
Haven't poured my garage concrete yet and you just saved me by mentioning foundation thickness. Thanks man.
Glad that your going to be right 👍
@Wendy and Geoff Pattison Thanks for the tip, I'll def look into it.
@Wendy and Geoff Pattison I do know we are gonna have a heck of a time just drilling the holes.
Our airplane hangar was done with that fiberglass reinforced concrete and I've already had to drill a few holes in it, you'd swear that new bit is dull immediately 🤣
We definitely have it thick enough ,it's unheated in the main hangar but a bottle of water I leave on the bench never freezes.
And it is insulated.
The coldest it's been in there is 26f during a week of being near zero F outside.
That thermometer is on the wall about 6' up.
And that bottle won't freeze or even get slushy.
Someone said its possibly caused by the slab radiating it's warmth, I don't really know.
I'm really scratching my head on how a room(shop) can get under 32f and a bottle of water doesn't freeze 🤷♂️
Either way , a lift is in the future.
Great advice! Thickness/quality of my concrete is definitely something that had not crossed my mind.
So... great! More money. Can't wait to tell my wife.
She's gonna love the extra trouble that you are going to to make it safe 😎 your welcome 🤣
Hi Jim,
nice video, however as an ethical retailer I do have to say that some of us actually DO care about which hoist a potential customer might purchase - and we don't wanna sell 'a' hoist - just for the sake of it...
At Hero Hoists (Australia) it's absoluely critical we make potential customers aware of the features, benefits and possible drawbacks of any option they may be considering...
For example, the issues you experienced with the slab would probably not be a problem for a 4-Post model... as they're freestanding / portable - and can be used for BOTH service and parking... so we provide twice as many of them as the 2-Posters...
As far as asking installers what's 'best' - yes in general that's good advice - BUT be very careful - as some installers have very close relationships with certain retailers - and even go so far as telling potential customers that a particular brand is 'best' - which is clearly a 'throw-away' recommendation - and meaningless without some kind of context...
They aren't always aware of what's on offer or new in the market either… and on that basis I'd be getting any retailer to provide at least 3 customer numbers that they can call to get an unbiased opinion...
Keep in mind that some retailers buy from just ONE supplier - and get a great deal on the basis of volume purchases - however that's certainly no guarantee of quality or value for money.
All good and valid points there mate, but from memory there was a reason i didn't use your company, whether it was due to your mob not supplying a 3 phase model (a few didn't which is stupid) or whether your mob was one of the VERY LAZY retailers that just couldn't be bothered returning phone calls or emails, which most certainly WAS most of the companies in Australia i tried, they just plain couldn't be f***ed. If they're that bad before you even buy imagine how pathetic they're going to be after you do buy and need some help???
I do get that people are busy, but that is a total bullshit excuse, if you're that busy you can't get around to returning customer enquiries in a timely manner maybe it's time to employ more staff to handle the demand?
Not to say you were one that didn't reply but there was a reason i went with a competitor.
@@CaseTheCorvetteMan and ... No reply. But he did get his advertisement posted. Did he sound a bit pissed off to you? Maybe I'm just sensitive. 😏
@@1961Bullet he did yes, and after i went back through emails i found that Hero Hoists responded initially, and then took forever to follow up on questions i had, often dodging the actual question with some sort of waffle on answer, because they either knew it wasn't going to meet the needs, or more likely they just didn't know the answer.
That said, they're probably right in saying they won't just sell a hoist for the sake of it, in my case they had no hope of selling one at all.
Hi mate. What brand did you end up going with? Thanks.
@@CaseTheCorvetteMan
@@spiderloco5508 i bought mine through Tufflift, service was great, been using the hoist a lot and not a single issue with it. I'm quite happy with it.
You need a Stihl saw, Pick & shovel. Dig an inspection pit in your garage or drive way. Very safe and very cheap. Fit out with lights & sockets. You can do it with 3 or 4 courses of bricks for wheels to run on saving on excavation of the pit.. cover with wood or alloy when not in use.. you will have lots of friends when it's finished. Make sure they help with the work...I know of one that's 3 foot deep with 3 foot high walls along the sides that convert into seating either side of a removable table.. got you thinking !
Ok with that 👌
is the way to go,i was a soldier and a hole in the ground was your best friend,dug a pit in my front garden ,drive way,and makes fixing cars ,trucks so easy,machanics friend now ,and as you say,word gets out,you got a inspection pit ,and you got new friends ,jet wash underside ,fit towbars,slide a rsj steal beam across hole,boltle jack point ,axle stands ,only thing i found was ,if i was to do it again,i would go round a car park,shop mall,messure inside of tryes ,get a average size,as some cars are narrow ,and trucks ,vans are wide ,pit is good for welding too,i paint the sides white,add few lights,power sockets,air sockets,got boards to cover the top ,when empty ,but it never is ,allways a car over the pit ,have seen car lengh ramps,drive up and park on top ,4 foot high ,nice sturdy safe desin ,good if cant dig up your drive ,mobil too,dealership got seesaw ramps too,drive up and show off there new cars
Be REALLY careful if you go that route. Pits used to be very common in the US, now you'll almost never see them in a commercial garage. Too many collapsed. The instant oil type places that seem to have a pit, it's really a basement, and it's a steel reinforced or steel beam floor. The other downside is that it's only a matter of time before someone drives something into it, or falls into it, no kidding.
Why doesn’t this guy have a million subscribers yet, his videos are so good and well put together
Thanks for that mate, very kind words. If you can share them around on social media and anyone you know that follows car & fabrication🤜, if you get a chance and this would dramatically help. Appreciate anything you can do to help a mate out 👍🚘
On the first one I installed, when we drilled holes in the concrete, to see how thick it was, we pushed too hard on the hammer drill and blew the back of the hole out, which made us think the concrete was thinner than it actually was, so we ended up selling the concrete outand putting in rebar and pouring a thicker pad when actually, it was thick enough, we were just thrown off because of blowing out the concrete by pushing on the drill so hard. Lesson learned.
Cheap China hoists are ok, but none really have the stability. Mine I extended the base about 18" both ways. Like my previous Molnar was. They are a better piece but cost more. But I wanted clear floor.
Clear floor is by far the best, speed hump hoists are a big pain trying to fit a gearbox of any sort as the hump is in the way.
You need a level floor, they can be shimmed but again far from ideal. Clear floor though requires a taller roof. If your gable roof is sideways they generally fit, my 10'6" wall shed I had to cut it down the top of the hoistby 4" Requires spacers for the cables then. And big vans and 4wds are very close when lifting.
Most clear floors too are wider, if you have a 20 foot wide shed you have to sqeeze them to one side of the shed. The Molnar speed hump was narrower and easier to get a car on the other side of the shed.
A 3 ton hoist will lift any passenger, light truck and 4wd. Just make sure bigger vehicles are not carrying a ton [literally] of load. I have had 3 ton of Landcruiser and load on mine with no issues.
The versions with asymetric arms are excellent,, except when you want to put a car on backwards, more so to remove the engine. Very unstable then
The 45 degree columns too are generally better, easier to open doors etc.
If you put a car on backwards (cannot understand why the hoist would be that close to the wall though) then simply swap the arms around to correct the balance. A 5 minute job on my hoist.
For me 4 out of the 5 points are covered, the point about the concrete is a good one and I know mine will need work on it. Thanks for the tips mate.
Yeah, good tips. In particular the concrete depth.
This is a great video. Great tips and well paced easily understood commentary.
The sad part is the lift I've been wanting went from $2,800 to $4,800 in under 2 years. Pretty much ruined my chances of getting it any time soon. Good video!
There is some good lifts out there, just got to justify not having to lying on the ground. Thanks for dropping in 👍
We are Car lift manufacture from china . Cheaper price and high quality .Welcome to contact me for purchase
I'm pouring square footings 4 feet deep with galvanized threaded rod j-hooked. I'm not pissing around with anchor bolts. No second chances under a vehicle.
Needed to add a picture of a rig on the hoist and another car underneath it would’ve been perfect. 👍👍👌
I see a rock auto box there! I see we have the same interest in saving money. not to change the subject though, nice info the lift. Thanks brother.
😎👍
As I get older 60 plus and after having 2 knee replacements I'm thinking a 2 post for the Subaru Outback the 2 motorcycles and the zero turn mower maintenance is the way to go.
Yeah, you can't lay on the ground for ever my friend. 👌
Yeah. I was looking at a premium commercial type of Euro origin. In the specs it had minimum base , 2M x 2M x 1M reinforced cement under each foot, there were other specs on the concrete in the brochure as well. And those were costly lifts. Heshbon or something iirc?
Good advise. Thanks.
Great video mate! Would love to see more info on how you redid the concrete slab to accommodate 👌
Thanks mate, glad it helps. This is the link to the video of me doing the full install of the lift including the slab rectification. ruclips.net/video/JskZSvrRpjI/видео.html
Why do I need a hoist? Because car repairs are getting outrageous. I have a 2016 tundra 4WD, 48,000 miles, just had an oil change and get a list of things needed. They said “front and back brakes, rotors (which I doubt) and a cabin air filter, they wanted about $1,300.00 I have a bad back and fibromyalgia so wanting one to not kneel down or stand on my head to change brakes, etc. I built a garage in 1979 with a 10’x10’ door. It will need to go between the trusses but should work. I’ve need one all my life, but couldn’t afford it, when I did all my own mechanical work, thanks
Nice work Jerry, I wish that I bought one 15yrs ago. But here we are now, thanks for dropping by 👍
Always make sure the sliding legs that pick up the vehicle stops are there that stops them coming out. I was a mechanic in a big franchise shop and saw a BMW come crashing down. Nobody hurt but could have been serious.
Another thing is make sure you don't drill into heated floor tube if you have it. If I get a lift I would need to use a infrared camera to see where the heat tubes are located.
We don't have that issue here in Australia, where we are, we don't even get a frost in the winter.
Nice touch the ending...got DOIN STUFF...a like.
I was going to buy that same brand but went with an EAE from Tufflift instead. There were a few things i preferred on the EAE over that one.
Most of these cheaper domestic use hoists only come in single phase and most don't have the option for 3 phase, which is pretty stupid really but anyway. Typically a 3 phase power unit will raise the hoist a lot faster than the single phase units.
230v/400v is nominal in Australia, with a tollerance of +10% and -6%, has been around 22 years or more now. NZ is the same, however the tollerance is + and - 6%. There is also a 20A 3 pin socket, which has the active and neutral pins large in size the same as the earth pin on the 15A. These sort of things should be hard wired anyway, there is no point having it plug in, not like you can unplug it and take it somewhere else, it is just a waste of money having it installed with a socket outlet and a 3 pin plug.
The Tufflift is a good lift. It is suited your needs by the sounds. Thanks for dropping in 👍
@@DoinStuff it did mate yes, clear floor and 3 phase were two must haves. My workshop has a ceiling of 5 meters at the lowest point. I leave Corvettes up on it to keep them out of the way if i'm waiting on parts. With this hoist i can put it up high enough to walk under without anything in the way.
Nice work 👍
Unless you need to unplug it so you can plug in your welder that you ground down the earth pin on that keeps tripping the 10 amp circuits ;)
@@dennisbjones 10amp outlets are almost always fed by AT LEAST a 16amp fuse of breaker, and usually a 20amp breaker feeds those circuits. So if you're tripping with that welder, you're pulling FAR more than 15amps, because even with a 16amp breaker it is still 1.4xIN before it'll trip. A 15amp outlet would usually have 4mm cable and be fed by a 25amp breaker.
Thanks 👍
I need a lift because I am getting too old to crawl around underneath a car.
always wanted to have a lift like Dan Tanna, just not the car really . Thanks for the video and peace on earth and ocean
Thanks for the tips.
Get a four post hoist. You can move them around and your vehicle won't fall off. 😉
good on you...essential info
Thanks mate 👍
Bet it would have been cheaper and faster to have gotten (2) 2' x3' - 1/2" steel plates welded under the tower bases but good on ya !
I had thought some 3/4 plate but The supplier recommended to go the stronger foundation and I was happy to do so. Thanks for your comment 👍
Very informative video, Thanks for all the insight for when i build my shop.
No worries mate, glad that you got something from it 👍
Why do I need a hoist? Because I've got a BMW, that's why....
Got a 530i with 200k miles, all of those miles are trips to and from the repair shop 😎
Only for idiots that try and maintain them like a Camry
Veedub for life, I've suffered for 30yrs without one I'd like the relief
Agree... BMW are cute on the underside also 👍👍
Another thing to consider is screw lift vs hydraulic lift.
My buddy has a hoist in his workshop. Unfortunately, it only goes 4 feet off the ground. It was awkward when I had my car on it. Too low for me to walk under, so I had to sit on a rolling chair to work underneath.
Hi Will, thanks for dropping in 👍
Does he have height restrictions? It would be fine for braking repairs but yeah a bit annoying to do underside stuff.
Thank you. Very good video. Very informative. Greetings from florida USA
Hey John, glad that you got something out of it. Cheers Jim
Some great tips there mate. Thanks.
Thanks mate 👌
Unless I’m doing a lot a transmissions , clutches ect, I don’t worry, good quality stands do the job for me, mates tend to get more use out of it otherwise
I’d try to find one where the motor/pump/tank are up high out of the workspace. Once I got mine I found car repairs are so easy that my “projects” are much more serious now.
Awesome video. I see lifts at 3650 and I always wonder if that is tall enough or should I go 3.8 height like yours.
Glad you got something out of it Rick.
If you have the height in the location, then I would go the higher lift yes. 👍
How did you modify the rafters to fit the lift in there?
In my first video on "Workshop upgrades" I go into some detail about roof repairs and support for that.
Well Danish/Polish lifts Stenhøj is the best quality lifts on the market, secondly the Ravaglioli from Italy comes in second, but i guess you never tried to search those brands, both brands have any lift you require in their programme, both working 10+ years professionally and with only one annualy service required, they are cost compedative to all the other brands out there and the warranties are on both brands 3 years here in Europe.
The lift you choose has 2 major faults, one is the reinforcement on the arms, total without any purpose and a pain in the arse when working around the lift, no space to put wheel bolts or brake parts when working around the lift and a magnetic cup will fall of when you need to do things inside the car when lifted. Secondly the motor and hydraulic system on the side of thae lift is absolutely annoying when doing anything around that area and everytime you need to walk around you need to take care of your self not to get caught up on it with arms legs or clothing....
Thanks for your comment 👍
It's nice seeing the brain behind the man the myth the legend. Lol
🤣🤣
Nice video! Cheers!
I would think installing a hoist might affect your insurance so you should check before you install one and then find out you cannot get insurance.
Great to see the red Rambler convertible at the beginning of the video. Is it yours and a 1965? I have 1 with a 6 cylinder. Red with white top. Hope to hear from you. Good info in your video. Thanks!
Hey Bob, the rambler is a friends car, it's a very nice example. Your sounds nice, I'd like a nice classic but can't get away from custom stuff 🤣
Thanks for dropping in. Cheers Jim
@@DoinStuff Hi Jim. I was so surprised to see the car in your video. My parents bought the car new in 1965 and I have ridden many miles in the back seat of that car. I am 69 now and just got the car 2 months ago, it has 129,000 miles and looks as if it just came off the showroom floor. I have never seen another, so imagine my surprise when I saw it in your video. Sorry to go on about my car, but I'm happy to see another. Great info in your video and best wishes to you. Take care! Bob
Nice wrk Bob, hang onto and enjoy it for as long as you can mate 👍
In Australia we have currently been using for the last decade 230/400v.
That is true. But that is the "nominal voltage". Alot of areas still run the original 240-415 actual volts. All depends if your distributor has tap changed the transformers. Use a multimeter if you really want to or need to know.
@@phillipplumb1310 OLTC on the power transformer. Done.
Epoxy in the studs ( 3/4 good quality allthread ) ?
Awesome video. Gave me lots to think about. 👍
Thanks for dropping by mate 👍
Good video , thanks for the tips
Good to no thanks 👍
Why are your lift arms not at the same height?
Bump, lol
@@willburk It's a single hydraulic ram hoist, with the non ram side lifted by cable. When new and unloaded, the non ram side will be higher, due to cable spring back. Most don't notice, how often do you lift an empty hoist.
You said that 15A double gpo's don't exist, but they do. That is all I have in my shed.
You are one of the lucky ones my friend.
I always wanted one but will most likely go for quick jacks as it can be taken with you
Have you had any issues of the slope of the roof being close to the vehicle?
Thanks for dropping by mate.
If i raise a long vehicle on the hoist, I have to leave the bonnet or bootlid closed. Besides that no troubles. I haven't had the hoist over height switch go to it's limit either.
Very nice job on the content of this video.
Thanks 👍
Good video mate
Thanks for that 👍
Tired of paying nearly $100 - $300 every time you need to do a fluid change. Almost EVERY vehicle out there requires getting under the vehicle - especially the new 'sealed' transmissions.
Yeah I know right. 👍
Man i love these videos, always puts a smile on my face to see you and your brother doing what you guys love!
You two are awesome!
Thanks for that mate, very kind words. Gav is a legend.
You removed 2 roof trusses to accommodate the height of the lift, and half the roof load is over the garage door. That's a nightmare of structural degradation and your roof and walls are going to settle and bow if you don't find a way to replace the load bracing.
If you where to look a bit closer you will also see that heavy Steel channel was put into place prior to the timber trusses being removed.
@@DoinStuff I do see those, but there's no horizontal member to counter the outward thrust those new channels will be putting on the front and rear wall top plates (red painted?). I understand that you can't put any new lower members there (meaning where the bottom of the trusses used to be) due to the lift clearance you need, but that whole roof section is very weak. I'm seeing this as not only an architect but as someone who lives in Massachusetts US, so I think in terms of snow loads and the torsional forces caused by hurricanes. Not sure if you live in Southern AUS where they get snow, or maybe that's not a worry for you? 😉
Hi Bill, thanks for your reply and concerns but we are located in Queensland, Northern Australia. No snow loads to be worried about. Also it's been up for near 4 years with no movement or sag.👍
@@DoinStuff Good to know!
Why didn't you compare a 2 post hoist to a 4 post hoist ..?? 4 post hoist are more stable .. ??? like which is the best ..?? something to think about...???
should you have set J anchors placed in the wet concert i heard that you had to keep tighting up the wedge anchors every so often and thats not a good thing
Don’t mean to be negative Nancy here but I see a huge issue with this lift installation. In the latter part of the video when you are sitting on the arms you can clearly see that one lift arm is higher than the other. Either the lift trucks are out of adjustment or you have a post not square to the rest of the lift. In any case I would refrain from using that until that is fixed.
I think that might be an optical illusion in that one arm is slightly behind the other giving the illusion of height difference.
Haven't used many different hoists have you ?
@@MikeSmith-nu9wt I’ve used a few….
I am a professional mechanic I would not operate without a 4 post hoist..2 post hoists are OK but useless for most diagnostic jobs because nothing is sitting at normal ride height
You Want A Real Lift ? The Only One To Buy is Mohawk Not Cheap But What's Your Life Worth ? They Dont Use Cables They Use Chains. The Only Lift With A 25 Year Warrantee . Stay AWAY From Anything Else
Thanks for the tip 👍
I thought the 5 were just common sense.
Looks like you reinforced the new slab with chicken wire,,,,,,,where is the real mat made of #5 rebar??
not sure if i would agree with ask an installer, for example if i wanted to build a house I'd go to an architect and not a carpenter.
Thanks for your ideas.
As an Engineer, when called out for a technical problem, I go to the people that run the equipment. They can tell you volumes more about the issue than any supervisor can.
he mentioned installer as a person, who knows abut overall quality of lifts, he is installing. as for technical stuff, for example what kind of foundations/concrete/rebar etc should be done, then yes, it is better to ask structural engineer (and maybe also architect, who did plans for the house) about that. specially when doing this in existing building, where cutting slabs etc means you're weakening the whole structure.
What do you actually need a hoist for? Gee, I dunno-maybe rR&R transmissions, exhaust work underbody work, etc, etc. I mean WTF kind of question is that?!?
You have to have a lift at, work there's no other way to get your work done
How thick was your concrete right there, 3.5"?
Yes roughly 3.5 inches or 80-85mm.
How much to install mate?
Hey mate, the install costs vary from different lifts and installers. But in saying that to allow between $700 - 900 Australian. Some would be more for larger 4 post units and commercial lifts. I hope this helps mate.
if you need a "installer" then you're in the wrong field. try cooking.
can't understand a word.
First thing to learn is that "Skyhooks dont work in the rain".
👍
no mister you need a 1mx1m x ,7 m filled with concrete and min 200 fastening, or long rag bolts geeze my D4 LR Weights 2600 kg empty Yofferou are a statistic waiting to happen under that hoist
orfer a voltage converter from me 5 to 30kw, single ph in 3 phase 400 out