If you want to improve the quality of the 3D scan you should try to give the bare metal a colour. The reflective silver finish is incredibly hard for the LiDAR sensor to properly map out as the light reflects off of it. If you get some of that powder (dry) guide coat that bodywork guys use you will be able to take the sheen off of the metal without permanently changing the paint on it. Hope this helps and good luck! Can’t wait for you to finish and drive this car!
The front LIDAR sensor on iPhone is alot more sensitive / detailed as well. I would try rescanning it and seeing how it turns out. I personally use Scandypro with my iPhone 10xr and love the detail it produces, tho the files can get pretty large and lag out your pc if you try to go to big.
@@CanadianJoker it is true that for the iPhone 10 XR your front LiDAR is more sensitive as the 10 XR has no rear facing LiDAR. These where introduced on the 12 Pro and 12 Pro Max.
When you're shopping for 3D printers for car stuff, consider also getting a larger nozzle. Most printers come with a .4mm nozzle, but something bigger like a .6mm or .8mm allows you to print thicker layers that are stronger and so much faster to print. I have a printer pretty much dedicated to making car parts, and it's the best upgrade I've made.
@@kennethgamble5498 Mostly custom brackets and cable clamps and replacements for broken pieces, but I've also made things like an air intake for my motorcycle, a custom center console insert for my truck, and molds for smaller composite parts. Pretty much anything that can be made of plastic and isn't safety related, I'll try printing.
And don't use pla for car parts especially if you are in the southwest of the USA! I've got a 3d printed abs throttle cable bracket and a temp 3d printed ac compressor lower bracket and both are printed in abs. Oh! And abs I find is easier to sand and finish than pla in my experience
I've been watching this build from the beginning, and the tiny finger never ceases to make me laugh out loud. Keep it up, dude. She's really starting to come together.
A man, I love this channel! You are building MY dreamcar hahaha! Love the decisionmaking, so anybody can make up their own mind. That hood is intricate thou. It looks like it is too flat, maybe a little more curve would be better? The solution to make a Carbonfiber hood is great!!!
It was super nice of you to give @Car Wizard those spare parts you had. I knew you were good people. Love to see channels helping each other like that.
Make a mold of the hood and put the original on your wall as a reminder of how far you'd like to go until eventually it's the reminder of how far you've come. Your dedication to the project and pushing yourself is admirable to say the least, keep it up!
Welding the duct to the hood was definitely the correct decision IMO. If they were separate pieces, the hood would be very flimsy and flexible, especially with a big hole in the middle now. Welding the two pieces together will make the entire thing much stiffer and more durable, and gives you the option of making a mold like you said. Looking forward to seeing the end result. Keep it up, the build is looking amazing!
Lookin' Good, Mike! I'm a HUGE proponent of the tamper evident sealant, I work on a lot of industrial equipment and it's good to remind me of what I did, but it also lets me know if someone has been in behind me. It's a great time saver when troubleshooting. And this is only tangentially related, I make sure when I build equipment I use only one type of coating for screws, clear zinc. So if I see a screw that's not clear zinc I know someone has been replacing stuff.
The standalone duct is actually brilliant. Just mount it to the radiator add strengthening where needed and if you put basic trunk seal on both sides it will seal perfectly even if the shape isn't perfect. Its so simple yet so effective. And if its bolt on it can be easily replaced or modified. Idk who suggested it but he deserves a high five.
This channel continues to be beyond awesome! This week I'm loving the way you give detailed explanations behind your decisions. It subtly adds a whole extra dimension.
Mike, I just finished binging the entire series up to the present. This is an awesome project and the fact that you started with a semi-pristine Ferrari is cool! Like the saying goes, "anyone can restore a car, it takes a real man to modify it." That said, I admire your work ethic, your confidence, and your abilities. I also greatly appreciate your narratives on what you are doing, why you are doing it, and how you are feeling, especially when things don't go well. I'm looking forward to the rest of the series!
Hey Miguel :) I like the 2nd option for the toe links as it is now secured in 2 dimensions against rotational forces...a much better solution. Your fabrication skills for these parts is really quite commendable even *with* CAD cardboard aided design templates to guide you. Carry on mate, it's a pleasure to watch this unfold.
If you're going to add a bezel around the hole I suggest maybe consider cutting the duct off the hood and mounting it to the car as a separate piece instead, it'll allow for more simpler edges to keep straight and modularity. Basically you don't have to make an entire new hood and vent every time you need to make a revision.
print your hood defuser first and mount it to the hood, then use fillet wax to fill in any gaps, then do your mold. that way the defuser will be part of the hood not just a piece stuck to it.
Knowing your skill set, a 3D printer will open up a whole new dimension of fabrication for you with endless possibilities. Really looking forward to it. I bet you will catch yourself more than once thinking "Wait, i can print that myself!" - At least thats how it was for me.
3D print the part in abs so that you get minimal warping when it's on the car during a hot day! Pla will soften and warp easily when you are in the southwest
Poly gram loves a matte finish. I used a baby powder and alcohol mix. And gave my parts a chalky matte finish that was easy to wash off. As of 3D printers look into the ender series. An ender 5+ with minor modifications is all you need
Loving you're going the CF direction with the hood. Once you have a mold, you *could* change the interior vent to be a separate piece that attaches to the hood from underneath - but yeah I get why you didn't take that approach for the master. Two youtube channels that might be instructive if you haven't seen them already: Easy Composites LTD, Throttle Stop Garage & AJ Hartman Aero. All have some insanely good CF content. BTW I could see the headlight areas being done similarly (vents for something) but IDK what... You could PVA that hood, then paint it with a granite spray paint for a better 3D scan (which would then peel or wash off due to the PVA coat).
I think you might have a problem with the wing uprights. Since you attached the uprights on the inside at the bottom, and on the outside at the top, this makes the brackets on the car distanced based on the thickness of the uprights. If you didn't somehow account for this, you will have to bend the new, thicker uprights to get them to fit. It's also possible that you thought of this and the outside of the brackets on the wing align perfectly with the outside of the brackets on the car, meaning the uprights can just be mounted on the outside at the top and bottom, but that is not how it was attached in the video.
For the carbon uprights, the bolts can rip through the holes or make them oval. The support around the bolts looked very small. Try to glue in inserts or some flat plate to distribute the force from the bolts. Carbon fiber is strong in a pulling force but pretty weak in compression.
This is such an honest build. All the trial and error and frustration and success. It's a nice mix of stuff you know exactly how to handle and stuff you are figuring out. I'm looking forward to all the future projects to come. Would love to see a collaboration with @SuperfastMatt and he drives his Honda into your shop!
If you need to keep the build rolling quickly on the hood, you can always check to see if your local library has 3D printers to use! The one in my city has tons of printers and charges just material costs. I own an FDM printer at my house and it's absolutely great for design work, but the initial set-up and fine tuning can soak up a lot of your time if you're going for a cost effective printer. I agree with your final decision on the toe link. You wouldn't want to weld it and make it permanent, it introduces the change of having to replace the entire hub if it breaks. Which means tons more custom fab work on them just to get them to the state you have again. How much force are you expecting the toe-link to take on this thing though? The prior two connection points are pretty beefy and in-line with each other, and now you're foregoing one and adding another out of plane and attached to a bolt that has some comparably thinner metal around it. Just worried about some of the stresses it might see and the fatigue wear involved. Not sure if there's room on the inside of the hub to add a collar/tube where the existing bolt passes through so there's not just dead space inside the hub. At least adds some of the rigidity back to the connection point so there's no deflection going on in-line with the bolt. Just a thought! Great work as always Mike. Thanks again for being such a champion for CAD in the building scene!
i just ordered a large format longer 3d printer, it does 300mm x300mm x 400mm. and it has good reviews, i would offer to print it but i dont get my printer till tomorrow, but its one you could consider, get them for under 400.00 on amazon or directly from them. they are having a flash sale right now. but amazon of course has 2 day shipping. been watching the build sense the beginning and you do amazing fab work, and i love the diy roots. make everything!!
awesome video as always mike. Really been loving this build series. Ive been watching it with my wife since you started and she really appreciates the detail you go into in explaining everything (shes a chef - not really a mechanic LOL). It also gave me balls to tackle my own silly project - a TRD inspired toyota Previa LOL
For the hood, i would recommend a bridge in the middle of the opening. I think both for strenghtening and for better airflow, i had seen it on all our CUP porsches etc. here on the Nürbungring with this kind of hood. Big respect, your work and ideas are stunning.
I have been watching you for months, and I can't wait to see you first drive. However, I just realized since you are doing so much of the suspension and steering work yourself, and using a Honda drivetrain, I think it is perhaps more a Honda powered Pininfarina than a Honda powered Ferrari... Great work!
For the hood... You dont need to build a sloping angle up to guide the air... all you need is gurney flap! a clear one made of polycarb would do and would still retain that sleek hood line! check out Formula 1 cockpits and you'll see what i mean!
Awesome work Mike! Really enjoy the realistic aspect of each video, giving hints, software names, context for your decisions and so forth. And also a participative community, such as ideas for improving the lidar scanning. Please do think about taking internships. I would certainly go.
Awesome job this week mike. I’m waiting with a held breath to see this 308 fly around a track and blow peoples minds. I also really really really want to hear the 308 rev up and take off from a standstill. I’m still really wishing we were neighbors
Damn I really like this channel. Glad I clicked of your videos. I was sceptical cause there are so much sh*t on youtube with americans screaming and exaggerating everything. You are informative, calm and humble. I love it. Keep it up💪🏻
I think you could look into brass hammers and blocks to work some of the lead edge of the intake straighter. Looks awesome so far and great episode as always
Dude amazing work and I love ur vids, always very interesting and enjoy how u explain everything. Found this channel a week ago and have watched the whole build in less than a week. Really excellent content 👍
Love this build and your channel. Content is always excellent and enlightening. Will I ever own or build a K-swapped Ferrari? No, probably not. But I am really hyped about seeing your progress, and watching you adapt and overcome all the obstacles in doing such a build. Also, the little stuff that goes unseen - the camera angles/movement, lighting, narrating, editing, etc. Spot-on! Keep up the great work!
Hell yeah! I find myself looking forward to your Tuesday morning episodes like I used to look forward to my Saturday morning cartoons! Keep up the great work!!
Proud of you. Very happy to watch a channel such as yours as I'm still in no position to be buying a car of my own any time soon. I have a license I'm just broke
@@cheesepizza87 yeah. I share a car with the rest of my family. I have a job and work hard, but my money goes to supporting us and I live below my means currently. So many cars I find myself wishing I could have but knowing I won't.
I would want to try the "venturi effect" of the extra custom hood before making a pricey carbon one. Highway speeds, around the block speeds, etc. Does it actually cool? Awesome project!
Obviously it's too late now, but I think if you would have attached the duct to the hood with seam sealer, it would have worked well and not distorted. But awesome work as always. Can't wait to see more.
you should always waterjet carbonfiber, most companies don't laser it anyway, but if they do the epoxy tend to heat up and starts to delaminate the fiber
Great to hear that you’re thinking about 3D-printing aero-parts. I think you’ll love the opportunities it presents. I’ve printed a bunch of parts for my project, including full vehicle width components for my folding ragtop. Got some tips tricks if you’re interested?
As someone with a lot of experience with 3D printing I would suggest getting the part printed by a printing service. It will be of much better quality than a DIY print and save you lots of hassle and money.
It's still going to be expensive, but yes, I do that as well. And the finish is much better, which is understandable because these are not your 1000USD 3D printers.
@stanceworks i agree, people seem to say that 3d-printing is easy but i personaly think it has a big learing curve. industrial sls or sla printers would seriously reduce the post procesing aswell
Dude get a nice small paintbrush, like a proper artists paint brush, use that to apply your security paint, looks so much nicer. Straight out the tube always looks blobby and messy. 👍🏻
I like your CAD drawings, maybe 50% of my job are CAD drawings (but AutoCAD). Some remarks, I hope they might help a little. If your drawings go to a guy with a laser or water cutter, don't listen. If someone has to do with your drawings by hand, than you need to measure or draw lines (we call them construction lines) to make it easier for a person who cuts it out of a sheet. So you really start at the left/down 90° corner. I always try to make my drawings as close to the real working progress. So no .7° degrees, I correct that into full degrees. (They would correct it anyways... Because on the workbench... 0.7°... Yeah, right) But it strongly depends on who you are working with. If someone is capable to turn your .dwg or .stp into something, Production Planing is their job. I have both, we work down to 0.1mm on CNC machines (which is not bad for wood working) but also have people, turning 10ft sheets into something I come up with. I love that you are going into every detail and it seems your working hours are really cheap (hehe, don't get me wrong). One good advice I took when I was trained to become a PM: Soviel wie nötig, nicht wie möglich. As much as necessary, not as much as possible. When you're working on a Budget, the buying part is maybe the most important part, because that is where the money is. This means manufacturing of parts, to be acquired as well. So who can give me, my part in the quality required for a good price? Man... You got a lot on your shoulders, I hope Internet money pays for the ride.
As for a 3D printer, trust me when I say, get the Ender 3 S1 Pro. I got the Ender 3 V2 before the S1 Pro came out, and the S1 fixes all the "issues" and gripes about the Ender, and adds some nice features so you don't have to tear into a new printer to add something like a BLTouch, since the S1 has it.
The V10 supra is overweight, you can catch him, the 4 rotor of dahm will be in the 1000hp range and harder to catch. It will be cool to see these 3 youtube builds finishing close to the same time and hopefully gunning it out.
For the lip are you looking to do that for molding it or are you looking to add it as a finished piece? If you are looking for a finished piece a 3d printer might not be the best option. You would need a pretty big bed (you could solve this with a belt bet printer like the Creality CR-30) and I am not sure you could get the leading edge feathering that you would like. You might try cnc maching it. That being said 3d printers are way too much fun to play with and you can print with carbon fiber filament if you have a hardened nozzle. You can also print with high temp filaments for engine bay use and with a bit of finish care they are good for making interior pieces. bottom line though is 3d printing takes quite a bit of practice to get good results. Newer designs do not have as steep of a learning curve as older designs.
Super helpful. It seems like most 3D printers are kits that need assembly. Is there a high quality option out there that is ready to run? I’d like to buy once, cry once, but have a tool that will last a long time.
Mike! Been watching since the beginning loving the build, one thing I’m worried about hopefully you don’t run into is keeping that bolted set up but adding a flange that will bolt under the spindle fastener. Given the tolerances you’re currently running on those bolts you may run into clearance issues on the axles adding material under it. Hope not but thought I’d point it out! Looking forward to further progress man, keep crushin it
Make sure you buy something that can print ABS or ASA if you intend to use the finished 3D prints on the car, if you intend to make molds from the prints then PLA will be fine, but definitely try to go for an enclosed printer that can print ABS or ASA as anything else will just warp or creep against the heat from the aluminium and U.V exposure. Polycarbonate would probably also be fine, but that starts getting a bit expensive. Also take into account that the hood and the plastic will expand at different rates in heat, you may need to discuss that with your painter when it comes to that time.
@@stanceworks it's good to prepare either way, you may find you need a 3D print elsewhere on the car, you know how these classics are 😂 it will save you a lot of time and hassle trying to upgrade later on, just advice from a fellow car nut and 3D printer/machinist 😂😂😎 but fair play if you don't intend to go that far 👌🏻
Photogrammetry is absolutely bonkers. I don't know if you watch Driftworks' channel but they have a really great video about a photogrammetry setup from a company they hired to do Phil's 10 into 1 exhaust system on his e46 m3. 3D scanning is very tricky to get right, even with expensive solutions. I've tried a lot of different apps on Android and iPhone just as a hobby test and Android hardware support is really not there for it (re: LIDAR scanner).
As cool as a 3d printer is the common public ones aren't going to have a print bed big enough to print your part in one peace, you may want to check out and see if any local company's can print larger parts like that for you. That is if you want it in one peace. And they should offer more compositions of what they can print the part in not just the standard PLA or ABS
That toe arm, id make one that went around the ball joint, as in up and around when the spindle is face down on the bench. Or is there no space to do that?
Regarding the Steering arm problem, which did not fit the normal way because of space, or fit having flipped it 180degrees as it blocks the Ball joint hole… Would a similar shaped steering arm not fit if flipped only 90degrees, going over the ball joint hole and still held by the two original bolts ??? Interesting project 👍🏼 Subscribed with bells on. 🤗
I have a 3d printer and just so you know the piece you want to make it will have to be in a couple of pieces. Because of build plate sizes. I have a Creality ender 3max which has a plate 300by300by340mm which is on the bigger size of them around.
I highly recommend a decent 3d printer for working on cars. I print tools or pieces I need all the time. Make sure you can print some better materials than just ABS or PLA if you can. I usually use petg for basic stuff and polycarbonate, PEKK, or Nylon for more specific parts.
@@stanceworks For some of the higher end FDM print materials, so I understand, you're going to need a heated chamber for the printer, a heated bed, and some sort of ability to dry the filament before use. You might also want to consider an additional SLA 3D printer (maybe a 4K unit) for printing different types of objects with no layer lines - or moldable/castable object masters. Most of the large format FDM printers seem to be DIY units or 45degree print units on a belt (they can print BIG), but all have to use lower end fibers for both price and lack of heated environment reasons.
Have you seen the video Ryan’s formula supra on the track? They added a wing on the back similar to setup but they made the inner and outer wing mounts overlap for strength I’m assuming.. why don’t u try that?🤷🏼♂️ ( I’m considering the side to side flexing of the wing)
If you want to improve the quality of the 3D scan you should try to give the bare metal a colour. The reflective silver finish is incredibly hard for the LiDAR sensor to properly map out as the light reflects off of it. If you get some of that powder (dry) guide coat that bodywork guys use you will be able to take the sheen off of the metal without permanently changing the paint on it. Hope this helps and good luck! Can’t wait for you to finish and drive this car!
I was just going to comment this. Baby power works well at times. But anything to give the finish a matte looks and remove reflections.
exactly. even the yellow glossy paint will mess with the output geometry
The front LIDAR sensor on iPhone is alot more sensitive / detailed as well. I would try rescanning it and seeing how it turns out.
I personally use Scandypro with my iPhone 10xr and love the detail it produces, tho the files can get pretty large and lag out your pc if you try to go to big.
@@CanadianJoker it is true that for the iPhone 10 XR your front LiDAR is more sensitive as the 10 XR has no rear facing LiDAR. These where introduced on the 12 Pro and 12 Pro Max.
@@mathyskramer7576 burn
When you're shopping for 3D printers for car stuff, consider also getting a larger nozzle. Most printers come with a .4mm nozzle, but something bigger like a .6mm or .8mm allows you to print thicker layers that are stronger and so much faster to print. I have a printer pretty much dedicated to making car parts, and it's the best upgrade I've made.
Genuinely curious, what kind of parts are you making? I have no idea what can be accomplished car wise with 3D printers
@@kennethgamble5498 Mostly custom brackets and cable clamps and replacements for broken pieces, but I've also made things like an air intake for my motorcycle, a custom center console insert for my truck, and molds for smaller composite parts. Pretty much anything that can be made of plastic and isn't safety related, I'll try printing.
And don't use pla for car parts especially if you are in the southwest of the USA!
I've got a 3d printed abs throttle cable bracket and a temp 3d printed ac compressor lower bracket and both are printed in abs.
Oh! And abs I find is easier to sand and finish than pla in my experience
I've been watching this build from the beginning, and the tiny finger never ceases to make me laugh out loud. Keep it up, dude. She's really starting to come together.
👆👆👇👇👈👉👈👉select 🅰️🅱️start
A man, I love this channel! You are building MY dreamcar hahaha! Love the decisionmaking, so anybody can make up their own mind. That hood is intricate thou. It looks like it is too flat, maybe a little more curve would be better? The solution to make a Carbonfiber hood is great!!!
It was super nice of you to give @Car Wizard those spare parts you had. I knew you were good people. Love to see channels helping each other like that.
Make a mold of the hood and put the original on your wall as a reminder of how far you'd like to go until eventually it's the reminder of how far you've come. Your dedication to the project and pushing yourself is admirable to say the least, keep it up!
Welding the duct to the hood was definitely the correct decision IMO. If they were separate pieces, the hood would be very flimsy and flexible, especially with a big hole in the middle now. Welding the two pieces together will make the entire thing much stiffer and more durable, and gives you the option of making a mold like you said. Looking forward to seeing the end result. Keep it up, the build is looking amazing!
Lookin' Good, Mike! I'm a HUGE proponent of the tamper evident sealant, I work on a lot of industrial equipment and it's good to remind me of what I did, but it also lets me know if someone has been in behind me. It's a great time saver when troubleshooting. And this is only tangentially related, I make sure when I build equipment I use only one type of coating for screws, clear zinc. So if I see a screw that's not clear zinc I know someone has been replacing stuff.
No other channel on RUclips gets me as excited as yours does, when a new episode pops up. I really love your work.
Thanks so much!
I’m enjoying seen that once white panel cap getting dirtier and dirtier! This has been my favourite channel on RUclips for some time, thanks Mike!
The standalone duct is actually brilliant. Just mount it to the radiator add strengthening where needed and if you put basic trunk seal on both sides it will seal perfectly even if the shape isn't perfect. Its so simple yet so effective. And if its bolt on it can be easily replaced or modified. Idk who suggested it but he deserves a high five.
This channel continues to be beyond awesome! This week I'm loving the way you give detailed explanations behind your decisions. It subtly adds a whole extra dimension.
That is some serious craftsmanship in that knuckle you built. Nice work
Love the little hand pointer, gives me a good chuckle every time it makes an appearance. 👉🏻
Your lush music choices are spot on, and make these relaxing to watch. Thank you for that.
Proof of concept on the hood. Make sure the Venturi effect can overpower the negative air pressure before spending money on carbon.
Looking better every time...keep that positive attitude.
Loving the mix of technical stuff (actual CAD) mixed with old skool draw-it-out-on-graph-paper"!
I’m so invested in this build, I can’t wait for the wheels to finally show up! Keep up the great work Mike!
Mike, I just finished binging the entire series up to the present. This is an awesome project and the fact that you started with a semi-pristine Ferrari is cool! Like the saying goes, "anyone can restore a car, it takes a real man to modify it." That said, I admire your work ethic, your confidence, and your abilities. I also greatly appreciate your narratives on what you are doing, why you are doing it, and how you are feeling, especially when things don't go well. I'm looking forward to the rest of the series!
My man, the Stanceworks logo in the upright would look great.
Loving the build and the channel Mike
Hey Miguel :)
I like the 2nd option for the toe links as it is now secured in 2 dimensions against rotational forces...a much better solution.
Your fabrication skills for these parts is really quite commendable even *with* CAD cardboard aided design templates to guide you.
Carry on mate, it's a pleasure to watch this unfold.
I'm glad he came up with that second option, i didn't like the first on at all
You can never have too much carbon, happy you are going forward with making a mold of the hood, will look waaaay better
If you're going to add a bezel around the hole I suggest maybe consider cutting the duct off the hood and mounting it to the car as a separate piece instead, it'll allow for more simpler edges to keep straight and modularity. Basically you don't have to make an entire new hood and vent every time you need to make a revision.
BTW, that was nice of you to give the A/C compressor and mounting bracket to "The Car Wizard".
You should also scan the fenders, to match the curve that connects with the hood. It feels like it flattened a bit with the welds
This is by far my favorite project on RUclips!
print your hood defuser first and mount it to the hood, then use fillet wax to fill in any gaps, then do your mold. that way the defuser will be part of the hood not just a piece stuck to it.
I love seeing how you translate things from paper to Fusion. I also like listening to you talk through issues and the solutions. Awesome work! 💛
Knowing your skill set, a 3D printer will open up a whole new dimension of fabrication for you with endless possibilities. Really looking forward to it. I bet you will catch yourself more than once thinking "Wait, i can print that myself!" - At least thats how it was for me.
3D print the part in abs so that you get minimal warping when it's on the car during a hot day!
Pla will soften and warp easily when you are in the southwest
Bro METRIC!
And I always like your videos before watching them
Poly gram loves a matte finish. I used a baby powder and alcohol mix. And gave my parts a chalky matte finish that was easy to wash off. As of 3D printers look into the ender series. An ender 5+ with minor modifications is all you need
Entering the Home stretch. 👍
Thanks to the latest video from #Haltech I "found" this channel. Still a lot of videos to watch but it seems I'm here to stay!
Loving you're going the CF direction with the hood. Once you have a mold, you *could* change the interior vent to be a separate piece that attaches to the hood from underneath - but yeah I get why you didn't take that approach for the master. Two youtube channels that might be instructive if you haven't seen them already: Easy Composites LTD, Throttle Stop Garage & AJ Hartman Aero. All have some insanely good CF content. BTW I could see the headlight areas being done similarly (vents for something) but IDK what...
You could PVA that hood, then paint it with a granite spray paint for a better 3D scan (which would then peel or wash off due to the PVA coat).
I think you might have a problem with the wing uprights. Since you attached the uprights on the inside at the bottom, and on the outside at the top, this makes the brackets on the car distanced based on the thickness of the uprights. If you didn't somehow account for this, you will have to bend the new, thicker uprights to get them to fit. It's also possible that you thought of this and the outside of the brackets on the wing align perfectly with the outside of the brackets on the car, meaning the uprights can just be mounted on the outside at the top and bottom, but that is not how it was attached in the video.
So glad I found this channel over a year ago. Keep up the awesome work an advancements to your skill set brother.
For the carbon uprights, the bolts can rip through the holes or make them oval. The support around the bolts looked very small. Try to glue in inserts or some flat plate to distribute the force from the bolts. Carbon fiber is strong in a pulling force but pretty weak in compression.
This is such an honest build. All the trial and error and frustration and success. It's a nice mix of stuff you know exactly how to handle and stuff you are figuring out. I'm looking forward to all the future projects to come. Would love to see a collaboration with @SuperfastMatt and he drives his Honda into your shop!
If you need to keep the build rolling quickly on the hood, you can always check to see if your local library has 3D printers to use! The one in my city has tons of printers and charges just material costs. I own an FDM printer at my house and it's absolutely great for design work, but the initial set-up and fine tuning can soak up a lot of your time if you're going for a cost effective printer.
I agree with your final decision on the toe link. You wouldn't want to weld it and make it permanent, it introduces the change of having to replace the entire hub if it breaks. Which means tons more custom fab work on them just to get them to the state you have again. How much force are you expecting the toe-link to take on this thing though? The prior two connection points are pretty beefy and in-line with each other, and now you're foregoing one and adding another out of plane and attached to a bolt that has some comparably thinner metal around it. Just worried about some of the stresses it might see and the fatigue wear involved. Not sure if there's room on the inside of the hub to add a collar/tube where the existing bolt passes through so there's not just dead space inside the hub. At least adds some of the rigidity back to the connection point so there's no deflection going on in-line with the bolt. Just a thought!
Great work as always Mike. Thanks again for being such a champion for CAD in the building scene!
The toe link really shouldn’t see that much force. Grabbing on to the hub bolt should be a-okay. Thanks as always my man!
i just ordered a large format longer 3d printer, it does 300mm x300mm x 400mm. and it has good reviews, i would offer to print it but i dont get my printer till tomorrow, but its one you could consider, get them for under 400.00 on amazon or directly from them. they are having a flash sale right now. but amazon of course has 2 day shipping. been watching the build sense the beginning and you do amazing fab work, and i love the diy roots. make everything!!
awesome video as always mike. Really been loving this build series. Ive been watching it with my wife since you started and she really appreciates the detail you go into in explaining everything (shes a chef - not really a mechanic LOL). It also gave me balls to tackle my own silly project - a TRD inspired toyota Previa LOL
For the hood, i would recommend a bridge in the middle of the opening. I think both for strenghtening and for better airflow, i had seen it on all our CUP porsches etc. here on the Nürbungring with this kind of hood. Big respect, your work and ideas are stunning.
Have faith dude, I’m still here at the end. No skipping for me. Good work yet again 👍
I have been watching you for months, and I can't wait to see you first drive. However, I just realized since you are doing so much of the suspension and steering work yourself, and using a Honda drivetrain, I think it is perhaps more a Honda powered Pininfarina than a Honda powered Ferrari...
Great work!
THX for the explanation why are you welded the outlet tunnel to the hood!🙏👊💪👍🤘🤘🤘
I so proud of you, for buying the car an finally doing something with it.!😜
Saludos de Argentina amigo! Aguanten los fierros.
For the hood... You dont need to build a sloping angle up to guide the air... all you need is gurney flap! a clear one made of polycarb would do and would still retain that sleek hood line! check out Formula 1 cockpits and you'll see what i mean!
Awesome work Mike! Really enjoy the realistic aspect of each video, giving hints, software names, context for your decisions and so forth.
And also a participative community, such as ideas for improving the lidar scanning.
Please do think about taking internships. I would certainly go.
Awesome job this week mike. I’m waiting with a held breath to see this 308 fly around a track and blow peoples minds.
I also really really really want to hear the 308 rev up and take off from a standstill.
I’m still really wishing we were neighbors
Damn I really like this channel. Glad I clicked of your videos. I was sceptical cause there are so much sh*t on youtube with americans screaming and exaggerating everything.
You are informative, calm and humble.
I love it. Keep it up💪🏻
I think you could look into brass hammers and blocks to work some of the lead edge of the intake straighter. Looks awesome so far and great episode as always
The Spyker C8 Spyder did their hood very well. Check it out, even though you are mostly done.
Dude amazing work and I love ur vids, always very interesting and enjoy how u explain everything. Found this channel a week ago and have watched the whole build in less than a week. Really excellent content 👍
Love this build and your channel. Content is always excellent and enlightening. Will I ever own or build a K-swapped Ferrari? No, probably not. But I am really hyped about seeing your progress, and watching you adapt and overcome all the obstacles in doing such a build. Also, the little stuff that goes unseen - the camera angles/movement, lighting, narrating, editing, etc. Spot-on! Keep up the great work!
Hell yeah! I find myself looking forward to your Tuesday morning episodes like I used to look forward to my Saturday morning cartoons! Keep up the great work!!
Yet again, another great video!
Bringing back the pointer hand… nice lol
Proud of you. Very happy to watch a channel such as yours as I'm still in no position to be buying a car of my own any time soon.
I have a license I'm just broke
Quality comment 🤣
Feel like so many that watch the automotive channels don’t drive, we live vicariously through these builds
@@cheesepizza87 yeah. I share a car with the rest of my family. I have a job and work hard, but my money goes to supporting us and I live below my means currently. So many cars I find myself wishing I could have but knowing I won't.
I would want to try the "venturi effect" of the extra custom hood before making a pricey carbon one. Highway speeds, around the block speeds, etc. Does it actually cool? Awesome project!
Can't wait to see this thing rippin' it up on the track!
Obviously it's too late now, but I think if you would have attached the duct to the hood with seam sealer, it would have worked well and not distorted. But awesome work as always. Can't wait to see more.
But lateral fins on the hood vent. Just for looks. It would help to maintain the shape of the car. Something like Street Bandito did on the Z.
Outstanding! Well done!! Make it so!
Keep it going! Big up from Portugal 🔥 project
Scandy works well for iphone scanning. The selfy cam is much more accurate than the back cam for scanning.
you should always waterjet carbonfiber, most companies don't laser it anyway, but if they do the epoxy tend to heat up and starts to delaminate the fiber
Great to hear that you’re thinking about 3D-printing aero-parts. I think you’ll love the opportunities it presents. I’ve printed a bunch of parts for my project, including full vehicle width components for my folding ragtop. Got some tips tricks if you’re interested?
As someone with a lot of experience with 3D printing I would suggest getting the part printed by a printing service. It will be of much better quality than a DIY print and save you lots of hassle and money.
100% agree!
THIS
It's still going to be expensive, but yes, I do that as well.
And the finish is much better, which is understandable because these are not your 1000USD 3D printers.
@stanceworks i agree, people seem to say that 3d-printing is easy but i personaly think it has a big learing curve.
industrial sls or sla printers would seriously reduce the post procesing aswell
@@neovenom9833 ow yeah, i know the owners of the company i work with alot... their sla printer is a 120.000 usd machine
Dude get a nice small paintbrush, like a proper artists paint brush, use that to apply your security paint, looks so much nicer. Straight out the tube always looks blobby and messy. 👍🏻
Thanks Mike!
I like your CAD drawings, maybe 50% of my job are CAD drawings (but AutoCAD). Some remarks, I hope they might help a little. If your drawings go to a guy with a laser or water cutter, don't listen.
If someone has to do with your drawings by hand, than you need to measure or draw lines (we call them construction lines) to make it easier for a person who cuts it out of a sheet. So you really start at the left/down 90° corner. I always try to make my drawings as close to the real working progress. So no .7° degrees, I correct that into full degrees. (They would correct it anyways... Because on the workbench... 0.7°... Yeah, right)
But it strongly depends on who you are working with. If someone is capable to turn your .dwg or .stp into something, Production Planing is their job. I have both, we work down to 0.1mm on CNC machines (which is not bad for wood working) but also have people, turning 10ft sheets into something I come up with.
I love that you are going into every detail and it seems your working hours are really cheap (hehe, don't get me wrong).
One good advice I took when I was trained to become a PM:
Soviel wie nötig,
nicht wie möglich.
As much as necessary,
not as much as possible.
When you're working on a Budget, the buying part is maybe the most important part, because that is where the money is. This means manufacturing of parts, to be acquired as well. So who can give me, my part in the quality required for a good price?
Man... You got a lot on your shoulders, I hope Internet money pays for the ride.
Mike, please don’t forget to get an upgraded intermediate shaft as well!
As for a 3D printer, trust me when I say, get the Ender 3 S1 Pro. I got the Ender 3 V2 before the S1 Pro came out, and the S1 fixes all the "issues" and gripes about the Ender, and adds some nice features so you don't have to tear into a new printer to add something like a BLTouch, since the S1 has it.
Excellent work as always, few more steps closer to the end game 😁👌🏾
The V10 supra is overweight, you can catch him, the 4 rotor of dahm will be in the 1000hp range and harder to catch.
It will be cool to see these 3 youtube builds finishing close to the same time and hopefully gunning it out.
For the lip are you looking to do that for molding it or are you looking to add it as a finished piece? If you are looking for a finished piece a 3d printer might not be the best option. You would need a pretty big bed (you could solve this with a belt bet printer like the Creality CR-30) and I am not sure you could get the leading edge feathering that you would like. You might try cnc maching it. That being said 3d printers are way too much fun to play with and you can print with carbon fiber filament if you have a hardened nozzle. You can also print with high temp filaments for engine bay use and with a bit of finish care they are good for making interior pieces. bottom line though is 3d printing takes quite a bit of practice to get good results. Newer designs do not have as steep of a learning curve as older designs.
Super helpful.
It seems like most 3D printers are kits that need assembly. Is there a high quality option out there that is ready to run? I’d like to buy once, cry once, but have a tool that will last a long time.
Mike! Been watching since the beginning loving the build, one thing I’m worried about hopefully you don’t run into is keeping that bolted set up but adding a flange that will bolt under the spindle fastener. Given the tolerances you’re currently running on those bolts you may run into clearance issues on the axles adding material under it. Hope not but thought I’d point it out! Looking forward to further progress man, keep crushin it
Make sure you buy something that can print ABS or ASA if you intend to use the finished 3D prints on the car, if you intend to make molds from the prints then PLA will be fine, but definitely try to go for an enclosed printer that can print ABS or ASA as anything else will just warp or creep against the heat from the aluminium and U.V exposure.
Polycarbonate would probably also be fine, but that starts getting a bit expensive.
Also take into account that the hood and the plastic will expand at different rates in heat, you may need to discuss that with your painter when it comes to that time.
I’ll use the 3D print as a mold, or make a carbon wet lay on it. I don’t think I’ll use the plastic itself.
@@stanceworks it's good to prepare either way, you may find you need a 3D print elsewhere on the car, you know how these classics are 😂 it will save you a lot of time and hassle trying to upgrade later on, just advice from a fellow car nut and 3D printer/machinist 😂😂😎 but fair play if you don't intend to go that far 👌🏻
Photogrammetry is absolutely bonkers. I don't know if you watch Driftworks' channel but they have a really great video about a photogrammetry setup from a company they hired to do Phil's 10 into 1 exhaust system on his e46 m3. 3D scanning is very tricky to get right, even with expensive solutions. I've tried a lot of different apps on Android and iPhone just as a hobby test and Android hardware support is really not there for it (re: LIDAR scanner).
Great work as always! 😉
As cool as a 3d printer is the common public ones aren't going to have a print bed big enough to print your part in one peace, you may want to check out and see if any local company's can print larger parts like that for you. That is if you want it in one peace. And they should offer more compositions of what they can print the part in not just the standard PLA or ABS
That toe arm, id make one that went around the ball joint, as in up and around when the spindle is face down on the bench. Or is there no space to do that?
I'm here to see Mike accept an axle up the backside
😂😂😂😂
Fully torqued to spec, I presume.
Nice work.
Regarding the Steering arm problem, which did not fit the normal way because of space, or fit having flipped it 180degrees as it blocks the Ball joint hole…
Would a similar shaped steering arm not fit if flipped only 90degrees, going over the ball joint hole and still held by the two original bolts ???
Interesting project 👍🏼
Subscribed with bells on. 🤗
Might not want a single shear on the wing upright. Also a flat sheet will probably not have any lateral support. Add a rib or two
Loctite will turn to grease and back those bolts out when they get hot!!!!
A colaboration with Street Bandito for a carbon hood would be awesome.
Awesome work. Very impressive
Can wait to see it don
I have a 3d printer and just so you know the piece you want to make it will have to be in a couple of pieces. Because of build plate sizes. I have a Creality ender 3max which has a plate 300by300by340mm which is on the bigger size of them around.
For sure, that part is no big deal.
And yes you can print with Carbon fiber but you need an enclosed printer because of heat.
even if you make the wing uprights are CF, still trapezoiding might be an issue? can you add triangles somehow?
How about vortex-fins to make the venturi effect? Love your vids! Keep up the good work 👍
I highly recommend a decent 3d printer for working on cars. I print tools or pieces I need all the time. Make sure you can print some better materials than just ABS or PLA if you can. I usually use petg for basic stuff and polycarbonate, PEKK, or Nylon for more specific parts.
Have a printer suggestion?
@@stanceworks For some of the higher end FDM print materials, so I understand, you're going to need a heated chamber for the printer, a heated bed, and some sort of ability to dry the filament before use. You might also want to consider an additional SLA 3D printer (maybe a 4K unit) for printing different types of objects with no layer lines - or moldable/castable object masters.
Most of the large format FDM printers seem to be DIY units or 45degree print units on a belt (they can print BIG), but all have to use lower end fibers for both price and lack of heated environment reasons.
Have you seen the video Ryan’s formula supra on the track? They added a wing on the back similar to setup but they made the inner and outer wing mounts overlap for strength I’m assuming.. why don’t u try that?🤷🏼♂️ ( I’m considering the side to side flexing of the wing)
I haven’t watched it yet. But I’m just operating off of the suggestions of the guy that built the wing for me.
@@stanceworks check it out, it might work for your application as well🤷🏼♂️ I think they theirs out of carbon fibre as well, worth the look
Same guy did the aero packages for both cars 😄
Simply amazing
How about the HL openings? LM style lamps?