I do it this way because the cutting pressure is forcing the face of the tooth down to the guide finger. If the wheel is rotating the opposite way there is a risk that the cutting pressure could rotate the tool up off of the guide finger. As the tool rotates up off the guide finger the cut depth increases and if it were to get away from you could lead to a crash as the depth of cut / cutting pressure increase. Even if there was no catastrophic crash there's a decent chance you could ruin some ones tool.. Yes it creates more burr but this burr is easily removed.
That looks like a very nice air fixture,if you turn the grinder head 90 degrees to the table and use a cup wheel and put a pointer in the Collet and adjust the finger on center the degree scale Will be accurate,I used a Weldon clearance chart. On that em it supposed to be 9 degree primary and 17 degree secondary,I used a penny and lightly dragged the penny along the flute to clean it up a little thanks mike
I would like to have seen where it was actually cutting at the time it was cutting Seems everything was behind or on the wrong side that one wanted to see. I also think where you shown the first cutting was shrinking the diameter of the endmill.
I crudely grind bullet point drill bits for cutting molds and dies for bullets. If you could cut different ogive tips on end mills or drill bits there is a market for them in the reloading field.
I've got a couple of Cincinnati #1 and a #2 I bought at auction cheap that have been collecting dust since I got them. I'm totally green when it comes to endmill sharpening. I use to watch an old timer after work at the back of the shop i use to work at way back in the day and he was using cup wheels to sharpen the flutes. I have to admit I'm a bit disappointed the audio went out on you I feel we lost some key points. I would've liked to have more technical info. Like how to get the grinding wheel at the perfect height. What kind of wheel and type ect. The more technical the better. Enjoyed the video otherwise keep up the good work.
Thanks for commenting. Glad you enjoyed the video. Audio is my nemesis but I'm working on it. I have a lot more tool sharpening to share. I'll try and go heavy on the details. Thanks for watching!
it is not complicated. Take a new unused endmill and check the edges where it cuts. Then ask how you could grind those. Thats it. What you need of course are a 2 grinding attatchments. The turn 360° all around and a indexing tool. Besides that some CBN or diamond resin bound disks, they can cost from 30$ up to 500$ 3 forms will do all jobs. 1 flat one trinangle and one with a radius. The flat will grind the edged where you can reach them. The triangle will cut the flutes at the tip of the endmill so cutting edges can be reformed. And the radius will grind the inside and out side of the sidecutting flutes. What you need beside those thing are a good pair of glasses or a magnifing glas lens to check what has been grinded. you will get there but you have to start somewhere even when that is at zero. give it a try and dont buy to fine grid CBN disks or you will grind 1h at one endmill. The higher the number from CBN tools the coarser the cut the smaller the finer it will be. good luck
It will because I kept the relief angle the same as original and didn't take enough material off to change to rake angle on the face of the teeth. Of course I have no way of proving this in a video. Thanks for watching
it will last as long as there is meat on the bone. Until the flutes arnt ground down the endmill will cut. And for the edge holding timeframe that will hold up as long as it isnt used up. That to answer is impossible. So im curious what precisly you wanto to ask. What did you wanted to know?
Why do you sharpen with the wheel going down on your cutting angle,every pro sharpening shop does it completely opposite , not rolling the grind ??? Is there a reason
I do it this way because the cutting pressure is forcing the face of the tooth down to the guide finger. If the wheel is rotating the opposite way there is a risk that the cutting pressure could rotate the tool up off of the guide finger. As the tool rotates up off the guide finger the cut depth increases and if it were to get away from you could lead to a crash as the depth of cut / cutting pressure increase. Even if there was no catastrophic crash there's a decent chance you could ruin some ones tool.. Yes it creates more burr but this burr is easily removed.
@@Lappemountainliving what are those made from? HSS or tungstencarbid? look cheapish to me why not buy used TC endmills and sharpen them safes a ton of money in the long run.
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I was always taught to cut, file, grind towards the cutting edge same as this. It stops pushing a bur over your cutting edge.
I do it this way because the cutting pressure is forcing the face of the tooth down to the guide finger. If the wheel is rotating the opposite way there is a risk that the cutting pressure could rotate the tool up off of the guide finger. As the tool rotates up off the guide finger the cut depth increases and if it were to get away from you could lead to a crash as the depth of cut / cutting pressure increase. Even if there was no catastrophic crash there's a decent chance you could ruin some ones tool.. Yes it creates more burr but this burr is easily removed.
I was taught to buff off the burr. It works great for touch-ups too.
@@Lappemountainliving Thanks for that explanation. Perfect sense.
That looks like a very nice air fixture,if you turn the grinder head 90 degrees to the table and use a cup wheel and put a pointer in the Collet and adjust the finger on center the degree scale
Will be accurate,I used a
Weldon clearance chart.
On that em it supposed to be 9 degree primary and 17 degree secondary,I used a penny and lightly dragged the penny along the flute to clean it up a little thanks mike
Thanks for the tips!
you made that look easy!
Thanks
I would like to have seen where it was actually cutting at the time it was cutting
Seems everything was behind or on the wrong side that one wanted to see.
I also think where you shown the first cutting was shrinking the diameter of the endmill.
I crudely grind bullet point drill bits for cutting molds and dies for bullets. If you could cut different ogive tips on end mills or drill bits there is a market for them in the reloading field.
Very Interesting! Thanks. Send me a drawing if you want and i'll add it to my project list
that's awesome
use a piece of copper to get rid of the Fuzz or burs
I've got a couple of Cincinnati #1 and a #2 I bought at auction cheap that have been collecting dust since I got them. I'm totally green when it comes to endmill sharpening. I use to watch an old timer after work at the back of the shop i use to work at way back in the day and he was using cup wheels to sharpen the flutes. I have to admit I'm a bit disappointed the audio went out on you I feel we lost some key points. I would've liked to have more technical info. Like how to get the grinding wheel at the perfect height. What kind of wheel and type ect. The more technical the better. Enjoyed the video otherwise keep up the good work.
Thanks for commenting. Glad you enjoyed the video. Audio is my nemesis but I'm working on it. I have a lot more tool sharpening to share. I'll try and go heavy on the details. Thanks for watching!
it is not complicated. Take a new unused endmill and check the edges where it cuts. Then ask how you could grind those. Thats it. What you need of course are a 2 grinding attatchments. The turn 360° all around and a indexing tool. Besides that some CBN or diamond resin bound disks, they can cost from 30$ up to 500$
3 forms will do all jobs. 1 flat one trinangle and one with a radius. The flat will grind the edged where you can reach them.
The triangle will cut the flutes at the tip of the endmill so cutting edges can be reformed. And the radius will grind the inside and out side of the sidecutting flutes.
What you need beside those thing are a good pair of glasses or a magnifing glas lens to check what has been grinded.
you will get there but you have to start somewhere even when that is at zero.
give it a try and dont buy to fine grid CBN disks or you will grind 1h at one endmill. The higher the number from CBN tools the coarser the cut the smaller the finer it will be.
good luck
👍👍👍
I’m curious to know if this end mill lasts as long after you sharpened it as it did when it was new?
It will because I kept the relief angle the same as original and didn't take enough material off to change to rake angle on the face of the teeth. Of course I have no way of proving this in a video. Thanks for watching
it will last as long as there is meat on the bone. Until the flutes arnt ground down the endmill will cut. And for the edge holding timeframe that will hold up as long as it isnt used up. That to answer is impossible. So im curious what precisly you wanto to ask. What did you wanted to know?
Заточка Мастера выше заточки производителя.
Мастер убрал заусенец с кромок.
Now do the inside flute like on roughers.
Oh that's coming,,,
Why do you sharpen with the wheel going down on your cutting angle,every pro sharpening shop does it completely opposite , not rolling the grind ??? Is there a reason
I do it this way because the cutting pressure is forcing the face of the tooth down to the guide finger. If the wheel is rotating the opposite way there is a risk that the cutting pressure could rotate the tool up off of the guide finger. As the tool rotates up off the guide finger the cut depth increases and if it were to get away from you could lead to a crash as the depth of cut / cutting pressure increase. Even if there was no catastrophic crash there's a decent chance you could ruin some ones tool.. Yes it creates more burr but this burr is easily removed.
$180 USD. Wow thats expensive. I thought everything was cheaper in USA. exactly the same set here in Aus is $99 AUD + tax, about $65 US
$180.00 CAD is what I paid
@@Lappemountainliving what are those made from? HSS or tungstencarbid? look cheapish to me why not buy used TC endmills and sharpen them safes a ton of money in the long run.